Stage 16. Trillo to Mandayona. 41kms
Bar David is brilliant. Don't miss it. It has a huge open fire pit in one corner with three chefs furiously turning out pub food and food for the restaurant. Great atmosphere but didn't really get going until after 8.00pm.
I left Trillo at 7.00am after a fabulous sleep in my cosy lightweight down sleeping bag. As soon as I walked out the albergue, I had to stop to rearrange the rucksack. There were black clouds in the sky! Could this be my first day of H2O? I really had no plan for today as far as the destination goes so we'll just strike out and see.
You get to Gargoles de Abalo after about 5km. When you reach the road, rather than crossing it and going up into the pretty village, I went left on the flat road for 400m and picked up the path there. You'll see lots of wine caves and BBQ pits on the right if you go this route, and will also see the huge sign for the bar / pension. This might be another option of somewhere to stay for someone to try out one day? It was shut when I checked it out this morning though.
Another half an hour past this village along a dirt track brings you to Gorgoles de Aribba. It had a bar, Bar Consuelo, which was also closed. A theme is beginning to develop today and it's not even 9.00am ......
Although it has been threatening to rain since I left Trillo, within 5 minutes of reaching this village, the clouds disappeared and it's blue sky. Yeah! Onwards to Cifuentes. When I got to the road, you can cross it and go up a track. Or, it's just a 3km road hike, so I set off along the road and am in town by 10:00am.
Time for breakfast. I head from the road into the centre of this small town for a coffee añd tortilla and decide that it's so early I might as well press on. It helps that there are frequent villages ahead so I don't need to carry supplies, just half a little of water and something for emergencies - Orios. And it's cold so not so draining. I pop into the bakery opposite to get some reserve biscuits and set off.
After yesterday, this walk really is a breeze. After an hour and a half and 20kms after leaving Trillo, I arrived at the wonderful village of Moranchel, with some fabulous paintings of houses and businesses on the fronts of houses. A minute after the paintings, keep your eyes open on the left for some tables and chairs, opposite bungalow No 16! Listen for the TV outside the anonymous building. You have found the local fishing club headquarters and bar, the Coto de Pesca la Tajera. If it is open, pop in for a coffee and use Google Translate to tell some fishy tales about walking the Camino
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Pressing on, It's mostly a flat walk all the way to Las Invernas, where I arrived at 2.00pm, and 27kms from Trillo. Here you will find a wonderfully local bar for local people. The coffee con leche was like coffee I've never tasted before but on the plus side, the 'una vaso de Agua' was exceptional. And that ambiance is to die for. This place is unique and deserves to be iñ B movie. Visit it without fail!
One of the few uphill sections is next, but it's only 2kms so not too much pain. You get great views back to Trillo and especially the two mountain plateaus, which are just visible. Gosh, was I really near there this morning? At the top, it's lots of flat walking. Lots and lots of it, but it's glorious. The weather is deliciously cool. I stop regularly to admire the view. (Actually, I stop regularly to have an Orio biscuit, but still take time to admire the views.)
You cross a railway bridge, then cross a motorway. There's a cafe there but I pressed on, until the village of Mirabueno. There is a grand old church that seems to be crumbling a lot, but the gargoyles are impressive. They're worth a look. I think I found a social club bar but it was closed. As you leave the village though, prepare to be amazed! Those views down down down into the valley are incredible, and Mandayona, my destination is thankfully down there - usually on these Camino's, the last section is 'up there' and a real killer!
So, a glorious 3 km trip down, singing so loud I made my second deer of the day reveal itself. Not quite Dr Dolittle though. The poor thing kept trying to bash through a wire fence to get away from me. Doesn't it like the Cranberries?
Into the village I walk ridiculously happy after about 11 hours and 41 Kms from Trillo, and I stop at the first bar, Bar Milagros, asking if he knows where the Ayuntamiento is - five years doing Caminos and I still can't say that word properly without seeing it written down! What a star the host there was! He puts down his pre-Friday rush mop and takes me to a house a few minutes away, rings the bell and leaves me in charge of a nice old gentlemen from the Ayuntamiento. So, he walks me there and after signing in, getting a stamp, getting the key and being walked round to the 'albergue', I now have a fantastic theatre hall and toilet on the first floor to myself, with a blow up mattress, a balcony to dry my clothes and a bar opposite. I'm in heaven. I should have phoned ahead, but turning up unannounced around 6.00pm, and still it's no trouble for people. I got lucky as I expected to pay €30 for a room in a Casa Rural, so now, I will use it for a splurge instead!
This place is hugely recommended. Plan to stay here if you can. There are four blow up mattresses, but space for about two hundred pilgrims!
And so finishes today. If you need a big stage, do this one. Yesterday was about 30kms and knackered me because of all the ups and downs. Today was 41 Kms but mostly flattish with the odd short climb, and loads of fun, possibly because of the cool no rain day, too. Marvellous, brilliant, possibly the best yet, wonderful wonderful countryside, great variety, probably tired but feel really alive, body not complaining and now for something to eat, vino and reading about tomorrow's stage.
This is proving to be a fun Camino!