LIVE from the Camino ‘Live’ on the Lana

[filly]

That sounds really scary!

I’ve made an image of your track alongside mine. It looks as though you might have ended up on the other side of the valley. I hardly dare say, but I loved the walk from Mirabueno to Mandayona. What a shame you missed it. Best wishes for easier days to come!

View attachment 152088

… It was suggested to shave off 4 kms by turning off at Mirabueno …

ANother considered the Mirabueno/Mandayona/part Aragosa less exciting.

I aim to do this Camino again! Will take YOUR route.

BTW I am now following your tracks but my Wililoc goes blank, infuriatingly often.

Also how did @cclearly see the contour lines on Wikiloc - I am technophobe novice. Pretty please reveal …

 

[C clearly]

Also how did @cclearly see the contour lines on Wikiloc

I don't know how it happened, but when navigating/following the tracks, I had a map with contour lines on it. I have marked Mirabueno with a green X on the attached screenshot You can see the ridge all along, getter steeper as you approach Aragosa. We descended at a bit of an angle, on a decent path that was marked. It looks like you might have missed an alternative shortcut that is shown in white on the screenshot.

I am somewhat confused by how I got that base map, but I would recommend looking for it! You could try choosing different maps from the little black layer icon at the top right of the map.

 

[filly]

Will do. Not really a railway buff BUT I loved the train museum 1) in Monforte de Lemos and 2) Ponferrada

I also remember going off piste after Baños de Montemayor and walking on a disused track northwards.. and just don’t get me started on disused railway bridges (irresistible) and where was it on the Norte (?) where you can risk the train track side or take the train (no fare as no conductor/kiosk/station)…

 

[filly]

We're jumping ahead of you. And...

Absolutely. It has a nice long tunel!
Coming into Burgos off the San Olav, you get to it most efficiently by scrambling down an embankment before Modubar de la Cuesta.
View attachment 152211

Also reminds me that I hiked Oslo to Trondheim, arriving at the Cathedral on 29 July, San Olav Day… oh! these memories. Keep ‘em coming!

Another Camino on my ‘to be hiked’ list. Thank you.

 

[filly]

 

[VNwalking]

Wikilost.
How good you can chuckle at a situation that could have turned out much worse, @filly.

my Wikiloc now has a tendency to FREEZE and often will not allow me to zoom

Wikilocs always seemed slightly to one side of where it should have been, but after an initial scramble or two we found the dirt road and got into ´town´ unscathed.

Perhaps use another app as a backup? I use OSMand, and have never had trouble with it.

three HUGE birds of prey (twitchers please identify with my inadequate photos).

Not a twitcher. But those are probably Griffon Vultures.

 

[filly]

View attachment 152212

It was the Gudbrandsdalsleden… a mouthful but a great hike as long as you can carry tent/food and Jetboil… (Ivar country..)

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

That dinner look's superb! And you're right, €50 is very modest. Might have to resort to packed lunches for the week to balance the budget but it'd be worth it...
Haven't had Snapper since I left NZ 5 years ago..... I'm practically drooling.
Oh well, muesli for breakfast......

 

[filly]

Wikilost.
How good you can chuckle at a situation that could have turned out much worse, @filly.


Perhaps use another app as a backup? I use OSMand, and have never had trouble with it.


Not a twitcher. But those are probably Griffon Vultures.

Thank you VN!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Ditto, was just looking at options

 

[filly]

That dinner look's superb! And you're right, €50 is very modest. Might have to resort to packed lunches for the week to balance the budget but it'd be worth it...
Haven't had Snapper since I left NZ 5 years ago..... I'm practically drooling.
Oh well, muesli for breakfast......

Yep! I’ve had my museli.. always have some in my backpack, but difficult to get unsweetened and unchocoletty type here unless a larger supermercado ( Jordan’s preferred or Messrs Lidl).

I like food and eat sensibly but I love good/great food, created proudly with inventiveness with in-season local produce ‘crafted’ ( mot du moment vibe ) where there is a sensory dialogue between creator and end consumer. Needn’t be complicated. As my heroine, Elizabeth David, wrote.. ‘ An Omelette and a Glass of Wine ‘ … or two, in my case.

 

[VNwalking]

Thank you VN!

That's the one.
I download tracks from various places (the Dutch cofraternity and Wikiloc) an open them in OSMand.

 

[filly]

Talking of food… my go-to discovery is GAZPACHO! I generally decant a litre into my Norwegian emergency flask. Fibre, yum, salt, veggies - kinda V8 à l’espagnole! Great at break and boots-off time, with a cracker (no bread for me).

New flavour..

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Good tip, but doesn't it include capsicum? I used to love it, sadly I now react rather negatively shall we say...

 

[filly]

Capsicum… the flower?

 

[VNwalking]

Capsicum… the flower?

View attachment 152220

Pimento Rojo.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Bell pepper for American's, also called sweet pepper, green/ yellow/ red pepper, etc. And yes, sadly, Pimento rojo. Capsicum family...

 

[C clearly]

Perhaps use another app as a backup?

That's a good idea. I regularly use 3 map apps.

I have all my tracks downloaded on Organic Maps as a back up and comparison. They are overlaid so I can see all the optional routes at once, and I can easily drop pins and notes for any place that I want to remember.

Wikiloc will only show one track at a time and it isn't easy to add locations of hotels, sights, etc.) But it provides the alert when I go off-track, and it records my walk, which Organic doesn't do. I found that when I am lost, it is important to see where I have come from, so the recording is important.

Finally, Google maps is the most useful in towns or cities.

 

[filly]

I have booked (online necessary) for El Doncel, for research purposes, bien sûr, after an excellent menu del día nearby at Lantingua where, in the UK, the price of the bottle of wine (inc.) alone would have been more than the meal.

At last - a plate of veggies, followed by fish with salad and toms, wedge of lemon and enough fresh garlic/basil sauce to frighten any flying beasties tomorrow, guaranteed. Proves that you need to follow the locsl crowd, rather than the tourists snd remember that few self-respecting Spaniards would veer from a Comédor to an outside terrace (Mi Madre - keep put of the sun!)

 

[VNwalking]

plate of veggies

Gosh, they look overcooked.
And the salad is iceberg. I hope El Doncel is much, much better!

 

[filly]

Gosh, they look overcooked.
And the salad is iceberg. I hope El Doncel is much, much better!

… no Siree! Warm and fab! This is Euros 19 I think. And NO patatas bravas. You are either cruel or a very fussy one. The place is smart, clean and buzzing with local worthies. Anything to keep me kms away from a Menu del Peregrino!

 

[filly]

Now buzzing.. update!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Yep, many years experience have taught me to ignore the tourists and follow the locals. Often to a side / back street . And especially at lunchtime, following the office workers is often really rewarding!! Great food, moderately priced….
I have to agree with VN on one point though. Iceberg?

 

[VNwalking]

You are either cruel or a very fussy one.

Haha, the latter, I guess. I'm a vegetarian and in Spain I get so tired of iceberg salads and bad veggies.

 

[filly]

Yep, many years experience have taught me to ignore the tourists and follow the locals. Often to a side / back street . And especially at lunchtime, following the office workers is often really rewarding!! Great food, moderately priced….
I have to agree with VN on one point though. Iceberg?

Yep… but hitting 40 degrees today… iceberg IS THE BUSINESS! Let’s see what El Doncel come up with tonight (they could not manage an ‘in-person resetvation). Cela promet?!?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Good luck

 

[filly]

Haha, the latter, I guess. I'm a vegetarian and in Spain I get so tired of iceberg salads and bad veggies.

I have hardly ever had iceberg on Spain. In Coviran yesterday evening (self catering to pay for Michelin tonight) the salad on sale was ‘épuisée’ as they say in French… well, well and truly past it’s best!

…. and hey, give me and t’others a break .,, HOW LITTLE?!? I say cheers again to that!

 

[filly]

… and tomorrow I have to hike almost 32 kms just to suss out the Fonda Molinaro resto in Atienza. What undertakings, what hardships… (I shipped my extra, unnecessary baggage back to the UK today, from the friendly, bemused local Correos. Worth every cent). Bought some local honey to compensate for the weight loss and decent muesli from Dia, adjoining the nuns at the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de los Huertos (hidden from view with their full-height lazy Suzannah with one way mirror glass aperture).

 

[filly]

fondamolinero.com

 

[VNwalking]

and hey, give me and t’others a break .,, HOW LITTLE?!? I say cheers again to that!

Right. Well, your fare later will be even better.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Yikes! I did do it! A 45 minute distance from the truckers resto at the roadway turned into 4 hours. My Wikilost took me to Algora rather than Aragosa/I took a wrong turn in Mirabueno.. I SHOULD have backtracked but relished a mini-adventure, not realising there were valleys and gorges in-between. Anyway, I survived. I was not phased or panicked. Just intent on reaching my target ultimately - I KNEW someone had done it before me (confirmed by an Aragosa inhabitant).

Yikes indeed. Hats off for even attempting it.

An interesting conundrum: when to turn back when you know you have taken the wrong track? For my part, I'm bull headed enough to keep keeping on, unless I discover my error very quickly, in which case I don't mind doing a volte face.

Glad you made it safely to port with seemingly only a few scratches and bruises but mind how you go.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Siguenza, which appears to be where you are, is an interesting place (with good signage) that explains the urban development. Starting from the castillo and moving downhill in ever increasing semi-circles. New arrivals outside the walls, walls moved to accommodate growth, newer arrival extra muros, etc... and eventually new and more salubrious town well outside the walls at the bottom of the hill. I guess a lot of towns are similar but it seemed very obvious/well explained in Siguenza.

 

[filly]

Right on!!

 

[filly]

Siguenza, which appears to be where you are, is an interesting place (with good signage) that explains the urban development. Starting from the castillo and moving downhill in ever increasing semi-circles. New arrivals outside the walls, walls moved to accommodate growth, newer arrival extra muros, etc... and eventually new and more salubrious town well outside the walls at the bottom of the hill. I guess a lot of towns are similar but it seemed very obvious/well explained in Siguenza.

Thank you for this clarification, duly confirmed!

 

[filly]

Atienza. I left Sigüenza (reluctantly) at 06.30 and made it for lunch at 14.00 at Fonda Molinaro. (Recommended but somewhat hidden away). A Spanish couple chatted to me at the base of Atienza hill and told me they were going to eat at a modern hostelry opposite the Repsol service station. I preceded them for the customary cold tankard at the bar. They came in, took one look at the menu and left! We met again outside, I told them about my recommendation and we headed off together - Separate Tables but all happy! at Euros 13. (The place also does rooms…)

Staying at Hotel Restaurante El Mirador (via booking at Euros 32.20 inc desultory self-service breakfast) great views, air-con, small room, small bathroom but PERFECT! Loads of rooms but only 3 occupied.

Yesterday was ANOTHER outstanding day. Deer aplenty, birds chirruping, a long snake sidled by!

Nada en route… except fuente including one in which trout were swimming around contentedly.

There is a salt river en route and salt drying pans.

Lots of up and down and some long serious up. At the end you suddenly see Atienza as a vision… looks like a pyramid and a huge, towered church on an adjacent peak. I thought I was seeing things.. Took an hour from first peak to destination… and then you have to climb.

My body is now exhausted! Good programme on BBC radio about heat and bodies last night (wi-fi here for once - speeds otherwise can be slow and my phone sometimes reverts to 3G).

Starting later today… Correos and Coviran call! Temperature down somewhat.

On my day off in Sigüenza, I posted home 2 kgs of excess, anticipated cooler-weather clothing. What a difference a package makes.

 

[filly]

Lovely quirky villages - lots of arty stuff and alternative ‘living’.

Cicadas on max. volume..

An Spanish couple were met who had been observing otters on the nearby Tago river.. Andalusia. Insisted I share their delicious ‘torta de aceite’ - a Seville specialty. (I buy the simple Iñes Rosales brand from Garcia’s in Portobello Road, London W11.) These had added sesame and cinnamon!

 

[filly]

7 am and STILL in bed!

Sure about the distance but querying the speed since Wikiloc has been playing up OR…..

 

[filly]

Yesterday’s menu.

I will visit Atienza this morning. Much street-prettyfying work going on. A very relaxed place as its up on a hill (steep) and roads are at base..

Could not resist 250 g jar of Sigüenza honey from the Tourist Info office at Euros 3!! It is set honey: fires me up daily until the end! Last 7 days coming up…

 

[filly]

Atienza - just gorgeous!

Correos is like something out of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. I kid you not…

nb ‘pop up’ bull ring

expo of photos of past scene, recreated today

 

[filly]

Also, first sign of use of slate, in walls and on a building…

 

[dick bird]

Nice little town. There were a lot of Ukranians there (mostly pre-conflict arrivals but plus some friends and family) working in the restaurants. Lovely people with excellent English. There is a wonderful Romanesque church/museum on the edge of town. Be careful walking round the castle, our friend broke his leg there.

 

[filly]

Made it in under two hours to Romanillos. Lovely riverside picnic area..

I love it when I can see the next village I will be heading to.

Currently, thinking of John Brierley and Alison Raju.

I recall Ivar showing me an advance copy of his last Camino Portugues oeuvre… what a trend setter he was! I made not have been the greatest fan of his E.T. type observations but I had total respect for his committed expertise.

Dear departed Alison Raju was a stalwart member of the CSJ. Superb knowledge of architecture, especially ecclesiastical - she got me off-piste to so many places, such as Trujillo…

The thing about this Ruta IS THAT IT GETS BETTER AND BETTER! Seriously…

I am now thinking of doing an Autumn ‘24 reverse, heading from the cooler to the coastal warmer.

Why more pilgrims are not doing this camino beats me.

Stupeu, exhilarating vistas as one leaves Atienza, followed by pine woodland walk.

Check mate.. or brekkie mate!

nb first Ermita ever seen sporting a photo voltaic panel!

 

[filly]

Nice little town. There were a lot of Ukranians there (mostly pre-conflict arrivals but plus some friends and family) working in the restaurants. Lovely people with excellent English. There is a wonderful Romanesque church/museum on the edge of town. Be careful walking round the castle, our friend broke his leg there.

I had no pack and no trouble… so sorry to hear this.

BTW thanks for the hairdresser tip. I prefer to let it all grow until Ruta end.

 

[filly]

Safely in Miedes de Atienza. Lunch stop!

@peregrina2000 has a point about hiking with a full stomach. I only did it the other day because I imagined a 45 minute amble thereafter… not a four hour escapade!

Today it is because I like a menu del día. I am something of a camel so I stock up with calories when available. Also, I generally try to finishing hiking for the day in time for lunch ie 2 pm, quick shower and clothes wash and I’m ready to ‘comer’ in a ‘comedor’

Perfect day so far. One car encountered and a trail biker; great signage! To die for vistas.

 

[filly]

Safely in Miedes de Atienza. Lunch stop!

@peregrina2000 has a point about hiking with a full stomach. I only did it the other day because I imagined a 45 minute amble thereafter… not a four hour escapade!

Today it is because I like a menu del día. I am something of a camel so I stock up with calories when available. Also, I generally try to finishing hiking for the day in time for lunch ie 2 pm, quick shower and clothes wash and I’m ready to ‘comer’ in a ‘comedor’

Perfect day so far. One car encountered and a trail biker; great signage! To die for vistas.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Some great photos. I’m beginning to get the feeling that you walk with the camera in your hand…

 

[filly]

Thanks! I do so definitely NOT. I just sometimes stop stock still, take a break and a photo.

I may walk fast but I sure try and look and observe. (Look at that fuente, with clever wooden mini-troughs, which you can lift to fill your bucket - ‘einzigartig’ if my ropey German serves me right.

ps I have and owe you a reply to Michelin restaurants (El Doncel in Sigüenza)

pps just ordered two ‘gold digger’ canvas hats from Cactus equipment in Christchurch NZ. Suit me perfectly as they fold and wash and have a chin cord for blowy days!

 

[filly]

I rate my hike do far today as equivalent to my best days in artic-circle Sweden/Norway/Yorkshire and Cradle Mountain trail in Tasmania. I know there is an uphill section and a spectacular pass so am holding back on the tinto and for once having a cafe con leche.

(boots off during the meal - drying outside in the sun) …. ‘mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun’ - I will be a little later!!

 

[filly]

This is ‘l’Espagne profonde’, pure, simple, historic, loved but less tempting in 21st century. Few children, little life except in the bars and few restos. Long may it last… but increased wealth and reliance on cars will mean ‘all change’. Please do this hike, soon.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

With all of the updates, photos etc you’re doing a pretty good job of raising its profile. I have to admit I’d never heard of it before your thread .
Bear in mind, I’m still very new to the whole Camino concept - if it wasn’t for the excellent YouTube videos of @NadineK I’d probably still be in ignorance. I have a lot to thank her for ( and many of the rest of you here on this forum )

 

[peregrina2000]

Safely in Miedes de Atienza. Lunch stop!

In Miedes de Atienza, I took a long rest on a bench by the side of the church, inside that wall. The priest came up and asked me if I wanted to confess. When I tried to politely say no, he started in on a long rampage about how the end of the world was coming and how I was going to be doomed. And that would be better off to stay right here in his town because after all who would drop a nuclear boomb on Atienza. He just wouldn’t give up and it was very uncomfortable. It made me wish that I had stopped a hundred meters or so earlier in that huge plaza with lots of picnic tables.

On the way down to Retortillo, I took the freshly painted arrow turnoff and I think @C clearly stayed on the road. The off-road route is, if I’m remembering correctly, a little dicey but nothing for someone who has scaled the cliff down to Aragosa!

Buen camino, filly!

 

[filly]

Sometimes I am grateful not to speak Spanish though I comprehend more than I let on. It saves me from such complications!

Speaking of priests, a rather wonderful Don Camillo type passed me by in Sigüenza.. I asked him for a blessing. Bemused, I pointed to my Santiago ‘pin’ - he understood and blessed me ‘sur place’. We were actually both moved..

My Wiki’lost-the-plot’ vaguely works, given time (for it) and patience (from me). I am now on @Magwood tracks as I head to her fateful finale. What a fab friend she had in Nicky ( if I recall correctly ).

Post lunch was great. I love a mountain pass. Breezes indicate you are near the top!

Given what Dick Bird revealed this morning about a broken leg, I too, like @cclearly took the road option. I wanted to photograph the height sign too. I no
longer follow ‘flechas amarilla(s)’ religiously and often make my own ‘desvios’. Being on a road (not a single vehicle passed) means my legs go onto automatic as I no longer have to constantly look out for boulders, large stones, scree etc.

I tried to call Señorita Aurora at Hostal Muralla to no avail. When I did show up:

1. demanded passport!
2. offered room either in La Muralla building or Albergue
3. offered to provide a dinner
4. sold me cold litre of milk/can of cold bee/selection of fruit ie MOST accommodating
5. assured me that the phone numbers I had were 20 years old!

HER NUMBER IS 699 867 933

when I asked if there was another bar in the village, she informed me that the only one ‘was at the camp site 1 1/2 kms away…

LA MURALLA IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED except to pilgrims etc.

THE ALBERGUE IS F A B U L O U S.

Follow the small lane up from La Muralla. Timbre/ring bell and she buzzes you in the gate and in the front door. I note that the laundry door has a key and access to another key in the lock = reentry solution!




One photo shows the crash barriers… another case of a high jump or limbo dance! Someone has thoughtfully placed some stepping stones to one side.

 

[filly]

It must be very snowy in winter and windy at other times. Today was perfect with glorious clouds…

 

[peregrina2000]

My Wiki’lost-the-plot’ vaguely works, given time (for it) and patience (from me).

This is concerning. Can you be more specific about what is only working “vaguely?” I am no tech wiz, but wikiloc works like a charm for me.

 

[filly]

It may be the heat.

As I said before, it just locks/refuses to show stats/stops recording/takes ages to resume.

It then advises me that ‘you must have taken a short cut’!

It will reengage but it takes time..

I did send one screenshot of a blank screen..

I don't want to lose my data so dare not delete and reload app….

 

[NeroHama]

It may be the heat.

As I said before, it just locks/refuses to show stats/stops recording/takes ages to resume.

It then advises me that ‘you must have taken a short cut’!

It will reengage but it takes time..

I did send one screenshot of a blank screen..

I don't want to lose my data so dare not delete and reload app….

The simplest way is to RESTART your iPhone.
If that doesn't work still, try the methods below.

1. go to [Settings] > [Privacy & Security] > [Location services]. Switch ‘Location services' off, wait 15 seconds and switch it back 'on'. Then check whether you have allowed the use of 'Location services' for each app.

2. [Settings] > [Airplane mode]. Turn it off, wait 15 seconds and switch it 'on'.

3. [Settings] > [Wi-Fi]. Turn it off, wait 5 seconds and then turn it back on. Alternatively, change the WiFi connection point.

4. [Settings] > [Cellular]. Turn it off and switch it to 'on' after a short while.

This should fix the Wi-Fi and mobile communication status.
You can also go into [Settings] > [General] > [Transfer or Reset iPhone], and click [Reset], chose an option [Reset Network Settings] to improve your internet status.

 

[filly]

In Caracena. Anyone who does this hike, plan to stay here. Marie Angeles is a tough cookie with a heart of gold! Her (son) Rodrigo is a wonderful workaholic who lets you use his wonderful, atmospheric home.

Food too!! Till 23.00 he assures me!

Coverage here is restricted to Plaza Mayor and up the steps.. comes and goes.

This has been THE most difficult day. Will post more later. Way at times unfathomable due to growth etc.

Heat today intense. First part mundane, second a tough GR (not for sheep!), and third exhilarating.

If you do come here, after a rest, the 600 further metres up to the castle is a must. I NEVER have to see another castle - this is almost untouched and in a breathtaking position.

As for the church/es…,

 

[C clearly]

another case of a high jump or limbo dance!

I have learned from past experience, that the only way to cross these barriers is to put both hands firmly on barrier, bend forward at the waist, lift one leg backward and over and then the other. Otherwise I fall backwards, unbalanced from my backpack!

 

[filly]

You get a big hola! from Marie Angeles… She remembers you well.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

View attachment 152592View attachment 152595

Le Malade Imaginaire at Tiermes in the grandstand hewn out of the rock - whoaw.

I didn't think I could spare the time to detour to the castle (and of course looking back on it I could have) - one of my big regrets.

 

[C clearly]

Caracena might have been my favourite place on the Lana - small village on the top of a hill, meal prepared by a trained chef, lodging in a quaint and quirky casa rural, Romanesque church, castle (that I didn't visit), 1000 sheep and a couple of dogs tinkling their approach from the valley, and meeting their shepherd (who was the bar owner's son and chef's brother) in front of the church. The population may have been on 17, but there were some day visitors and an alive atmosphere.

 

[dick bird]

Good news that there is now a pace to stay in Caracena. When we were there, even the restaurant was closed. The only alternatives for us were sleep rough, walk another 20 km or so or call a taxi for San Esteban. We chose the latter. It is a spectacular walk to Caracena. We were using Wikiloc but more or less guessed our way up the slope. San Esteban will have everything you need except an albergue, unless it has re-opened. Next stop after that is Quintanaraya which has nothing except a clean and comfortable albergue. There were no shops, bars cafés or restaurants and no way of cooking in the albergue.

Another heads up. After leaving San Esteban de Górmaz, there is a village just off the road called Villálvaro. Nice place to stop but probably nothing open. There are brightly painted, official-looking signs leading out of Villávaro across the fields then mysteriously disappearing. Ignore them. Go back to the road and carry on.

 

[C clearly]

There are brightly painted, official-looking signs leading out of Villávaro across the fields then mysteriously disappearing. Ignore them. Go back to the road and carry on.

Wait! You would have missed the restored Ermita Virgen de las Lagunas that is just a couple of km west of Villálvaro. Those new arrows take you west past the Ermita (which was closed) and a bit later, north to rejoin the highway. It was very nice walking on dirt farm roads through fields, and was only a bit longer than the road route. (The road was the wiggly hypoteneuse of a triangle, while we took the other 2 sides.)

Here is a Wikiloc track of the entire Lana from Cuenca to Burgos, which I got from the Valencia Amigos website. It takes the new route after Villálvaro. I'll attach a link to our track for that day, at the end of this post. We went west from Villálvaro, saw the Ermita, and avoided a chunk of road. The photos show @peregrina2000 approaching the Ermita, the building itself, some pretty fields, and the road that we had to join eventually.

It would be quite easy to go this route without having the track, just by looking at any map that shows country roads. There's no need for contour lines to avoid cliffs!

Edit: I have just made my first public Wikiloc track here. It shows the day from San Esteban de Gormaz to Quintanarraya.

 

[peregrina2000]

Good news that there is now a pace to stay in Caracena. When we were there, even the restaurant was closed.

and meeting their shepherd (who was the bar owner's son and chef's brother) in front of the church. The population may have been on 17,

Mark my words, Caracena is on the move! MariAngeles has got the restaurant/bar scene covered with her son Rodrigo (the chef, who has recently returned home), and they are doing a very good business. A second son has recently joined her husband to tend the sheep (they sell the lambs to restaurants all over the region). The third son is an archivist in a museum in Madrid, so
his prospects for relocating to Caracena are not great.

I know that Rodrigo is planning to rent our his casa rural as a whole house rental when he finishes the renovation, but I have to think that he will do something to make sure there is a place for peregrinos.

@C clearly is not one to lavish praise lightly, so when she says a town is a great place to visit, take note!

 

[dick bird]

Re Villálvaro. Thanks. We´ll know for next time. If the arrow painter had told us what was going on, we might have followed them and avoided a bit of road walking. We stood by the ermita and looked at that track apparently vanishing westward in the distance with no visible markings. Maybe they hadn´t finished marking then. By that time, we had had some bad experiences with intermittent way marking so trusted Wikiloc and doubled back onto the road.

 

[filly]

MariaAngeles’ husband is called Santiago.. and Rodrigo was not in the kitchen. He spent most of the time hauling stiff around in his truck and trailer, with three dogs rushing after him!

The Casa Rural was heavenly. He has almost finished and it is so welcoming. He even apologised because he had not ironed the bedcover!! (I used my SeatoSummit summer sleeping bag).

When you leave the village remember to look back lower down for the lovely bridge.

The castle is a MUST…

Wiggly Wikiloc shows difficulty yesterday of crossing a water-filled ditch.

ps Carrascosa de Abajo is a FRIENDLY village. Promoting hiking, benches, fuentes. A man offered to put me up, adding ‘free’!

 

[filly]

There is now NOTHING to be bought or consumed between Caracena and San Esteban de Gormaz…

I have hiked over four hours at speed and have reached Ines. A kind lady agreed to give me hot water for my Nescafé. I have my milk! Sandwich too as I have 15 kms more and won’t make lunch.

Tough!

 

[filly]

Made it to San Esteban de Gormaz!

Put my skates on and took the high road to get my 10 kms done before shop closing time and to sit down to a menu fin de semana.

OMG why did noone warn me! Staggering crossing onthe Duero bridge. Recalls Merida and a bridge on the Portugues…

Fab, fab day BUT NOTHING COOKING EN ROUTE 07.15 to 13.45 please note!!!

 

[filly]

 

[dick bird]

OMG why did noone warn me!

We wanted to surprise you.

 

[filly]

Well just remember next time to eat here!!

 

[filly]

I have nowhere to stay yet…but remain unconcerned.

The great Madrid exodus started yesterday.

Temp due to rise again to 38 degrees Tuesday.

 

[filly]

I wanted to add that yesterday was a demanding day. Taking the GR option is not for everyone.. hats off to Clare, Laurie and Maggie… and the others. It needs skills and perseverance.

I did not take the Rio loop way but made my own Camino. Farmer Mañuel in his cherished jalopey, not only stopped but reversed to make sure I was OK. Compass in hand, I iterated ‘todo bien’ and soon found a period stone cross and walkway.. then entranced by an Antony Gormley equivalent of the Angel of the North.., and soon encountered flechas amarillas again.

 

[peregrina2000]

Yes, you are right, it was a wonderful day from Caracena to San Esteban de Gormaz (except for those last few kms alongside the road). San Esteban was the town where I went into a little grocery store looking for fruit for the next few days. The owner said she didn’t have any, but that I should hop in her car and she would take me to the other grocery store in town. Who does that?! And she then proceeded to give me a little tour, including a stop at her favorite river swimming hole (the kids all go to the pool these days, but she sticks with the river, muddy as it may look!)

Not much up in the castle, but I always walk up to the castle for the views. Lots of interesting bodegas along the way. And there are a few nice romanesque churches to see, too! All in all, a good afternoon awaits.

Well just remember next time to eat here!!

We ate there! There was a 94th birthday party going on so things were hopping late into the day.

Hope you sort out the lodging without too much hassle. We stayed in El Rincón de Elena, which is a very pretty casa, right on the camino on the way out of town. Run by two sisters who take very good care of things. 686 46 76 00.

Thanks for the great updates, filly!

 

[filly]

Today was dedicated to @Magwood

You were so in my thoughts, each and every step.

You have been such an inspiration with your blog. I was devastated by your injury.
I continue in your spirit.

I know your are a strict vegan, quite an undertaking in Espana, so I may shock with my carnivore lunches… but the meat is special here!!

 

[filly]

Yes, you are right, it was a wonderful day (except for those last few kms alongside the road). San Esteban was the town where I went into a little grocery store looking for fruit for the next few days. The owner said she didn’t have any, but that I should hop in her car and she would take me to the other grocery store in town. Who does that?! And she then proceeded to give me a little tour, including a stop at her favorite river swimming hole (the kids all go to the pool these days, but she sticks with the river, muddy as it may look!)

Not much up in the castle, but I always walk up to the castle for the views. Lots of interesting bodegas along the way. And there are a few nice romanesque churches to see, too! All in all, a good afternoon awaits.


We ate there! There was a 94th birthday party going on so things were hopping late into the day.

Hope you sort out the lodging without too much hassle. We stayed in El Rincón de Elena, which is a very pretty casa, right on the camino on the way out of town. Run by two sisters who take very good care of things. 686 46 76 00.

Thanks for the great updates, filly!

Bless Champaign, Illinois as ever. Abrazos!

 

[peregrina2000]

Two other places if they are full.

El Alquerque. Little pension type place. 620 23 25 32 (does WhatsApp)

Hotel rivera de Duero 975 35 00 59

Good luck!

 

[filly]

‘museo-filly’ has been silent of late… but here at Antonio’s I have speedy wi-fi at last!

Sigüenza - the museum El Doncel - right up my carretera!! A guitar expo and most especially ethnographic expo of WOOL! At last…

Also, in Sigüenza … the touristy shop which promotes guided tours. At last, at the back, an expo on the Civil War (I have never made it to the one in Salamanca).

 

[filly]

This is the life… so a moment to catch ip!

1. @cclearly was enquiring about road nomenclature… CM = Castille La Mancha

Now we have come to SO-P = Soria area numbering

2. Our kiwi friend was enquiring about Michelin referenced hostelries. I sussed out El Doncel in Sigüenza.

A strange experience. I was put off when I went in person to reserve in the morning and told to come at midday or reserve online (which I did). Cancellation charge of Euros 50 applies!

I was alone. Ghastly music, grim lighting.. fussy, intrusive liveried and begloved flunkeys. One early course, I could not stomach… sensitively replaced by a meat course = delicious.

The best fish course I have ever eaten (hake from near Pontevedra) with a sublime white sauce covering. Attendant Jerusalem artichoke mousse over creamed and anemic-looking.

Service generally intrusive and conveyor belt like…

Cheese course proposed without asking (Euros 15 extra). 6 choices… but ultimately refused.

A chocolate dessert - oversweet and overpretty. White and milk - yuk!

grand finale of three treats.. I had one ‘pastille’ of salted chocolate = I felt dreadfully ill.

Not an experience I would repeat.

I much preferred Casa David in Trillo or Raff in Cuenca.

To eat alone is grim. I left a substantial tip but overall it was an ordeal..,

unlike lunch today at Antonia in San Esteban de Gormaz at Euros 24 inc a bottle of great wine!

Les jeux et lunch sont faits!!

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

It would have cost at least £150 in London.

I only had one glass of wine… but ultimately it felt like an ordeal.

I preferred my lunchtime Euros 15 meal nearby with added iceberg salad!!!

 

[filly]

Two other places if they are full.

El Alquerque. Little pension type place. 620 23 25 32 (does WhatsApp)

Hotel rivera de Duero 975 35 00 59

Good luck!

AS ALWAYS you are a star! Restaurant confirms they are linked to El Alquerque, so am heading there. Its been quite a day.., hot and humid and astounded by how empty villages can be so very near Burgos…

 

[filly]

 

[peregrina2000]

View attachment 152707

As early as my 2014 Levante, I found that restaurants in the Castilla/León/La Mancha area had weekend prices for their menús del día. I think it is becoming more prevalent. I’ll bet their week-day menú is half that. I’m not complaining, because they were working their tails off, but it’s a heads up for people who may not be sussing out the prime gourmet dining experience and who may be on a tighter budget.

They also had a huge number of very interesting looking tapas on their wallboard, and in fact @C clearly and I considered just going the tapas route, but they were so busy that the woman at the bar said that the only tapas available now were those that were already prepared and on the counter. They were just too busy to make any, and it was a bit late when we got there, at least 3:30 if memory serves (@C clearly can correct me). So yes I’d say this is the go-to place in San Esteban de Gormaz!

 

[C clearly]

Taking the GR option is not for everyone.. hats off to Clare, Laurie and Maggie… and the others. It needs skills and perseverance.

That GR86 option from Retortillo de Soria to Tarancueña was quite confusing at times, and was one of the sections where we were reminded that the existence of a Wikiloc track does not mean it is a good track! Of course, I am glad that we did it, and the crumbling structures built into the hillside just out of Retortillo were interesting, but I'm not sure I'd recommend the diversion. The best part of the day was after Tarancueña.

 

[filly]

That GR86 option from Retortillo de Soria to Tarancueña was quite confusing at times, and was one of the sections where we were reminded that the existence of a Wikiloc track does not mean it is a good track! Of course, I am glad that we did it, and the crumbling structures built into the hillside just out of Retortillo were interesting, but I'm not sure I'd recommend the diversion. The best part of the day was after Tarancueña.

I agree totally!

 

[peregrina2000]

I did not take the Rio loop way but made my own Camino. Farmer Mañuel in his cherished jalopey, not only stopped but reversed to make sure I was OK.

Filly, you said this about the route from Retortillo to Tarancueña to Caracena. What did you mean?

Of course, I am glad that we did it, and the crumbling structures built into the hillside just out of Retortillo were interesting, but I'm not sure I'd recommend the diversion.

Yes, I wonder about that too. But if you add up all the pieces, we did have a really nice walk — all those structures in the hillside, the stop in Losada to chat with the guy with the mushrooms. I think the route is pretty untraveled, so you have to be prepared for the trail to disappear underneath all the grass, etc.

But it is one good way to lengthen what would otherwise be a pretty short day from Retortillo to Caracena — though given the delights of Caracena, that might not have been a bad thing.

 

[C clearly]

But it is one good way to lengthen what would otherwise be a pretty short day from Retortillo to Caracena — though given the delights of Caracena, that might not have been a bad thing.

I agree. However, we should point out that we were in Caracena on a bustling Saturday night, when all 17 residents and their out-of-town friends were visiting. On a Monday or Tuesday, it might be a very different atmosphere!

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree. However, we should point out that we were in Caracena on a bustling Saturday night, when all 17 residents and their out-of-town friends were visiting. On a Monday or Tuesday, it might be a very different atmosphere!

Yes, but the sheep, the restaurant (filly could eat lunch AND dinner there ), the church, the washing machine, and the castle are all there no matter what the day (except I think the restaurant closes on Wednesday?).

And btw, sorry if I didn’t mention it earlier, but for future Lana walkers, the absolutely best view of the Caracena castle is to go up there, and then to continue another few minutes. You can see its position over the gorge, with all the birds of prey flying around, and it is lovely.

 

[filly]

It was zheaven

Yes, but the sheep, the restaurant (filly could eat lunch AND dinner there ), the church, the washing machine, and the castle are all there no matter what the day (except I think the restaurant closes on Wednesday?).

And btw, sorry if I didn’t mention it earlier, but for future Lana walkers, the absolutely best view of the Caracena castle is to go up there, and then to continue another few minutes. You can see its position over the gorge, with all the birds of prey flying around, and it is lovely.


View attachment 152725View attachment 152726

I saw 11 birds of prey and MariaA informed me that I might be a suitable snack if no carrion was to hand!!!!

 

[filly]

HOT OFF THE PRESS

nb ALL was full here in San Esteban. I asked at Hotel Rivera del Duero - full ) but rooms on booking at Euros 102…)
Full at Casa Rural El Rincon de Elena..
went to Tourist Office. NO Albergue. I could sleep in the porch of the church but milady would have one more go.. and hey presto Room 5 at Elena’s suddenly was available at Euros 35 inc. breakfast…

Wot’s not to like?!?




View attachment IMG_3248.MOV

 

[filly]

pps For tomorrow ‘all change’!

You need to contact CARMEN for access…

 

[filly]

Late start due to included breakfast! Fresh fruit… tostado etc.

Sunday = little traffic. Warm day already with gentle breeze.

Have reached Villalvaro in under two hours AND bar is bring cleaned and now OPEN!



ALSO Señorita informs me that there is simple accommodation available in the village, after I tell her that I had difficulties in San Esteban.

 

[C clearly]

ALSO Señorita informs me that there is simple accommodation available in the village

Do you mean in the village of Villálvaro or in Quintanarraya?

 

[filly]

Do you mean in the village of Villálvaro or in Quintanarraya?

Villalvaro… as I am on my way to Q.

Please note most fuentes are dry!

About 2 kms after Alcubilla, on a downhill slope I veered left at a GR post. Signage has been good hitherto but suddenly disappears. I only see red/white GR and Camino del Cid. It does seem the right way though.

 

[peregrina2000]

Filly I have my tracks on wikiloc, same user name. I can’t remember this specific spot, but I do remember that I didn’t get lost!

From here on you are going to see a fair amount of convergence with Camino del Cid. But sometimes the Camino del Cid stays on the road and the Ruta de la Lana takes you off into the fields on ag tracks, which is always nicer.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am on my way to Q.

Well, we may not hear from @filly if he is sleeping in Quintanarraya. @C clearly and her Movistar got occasional bursts of coverage. I had Vodafone and had to go to the far edge of town where the bodegas are to get some.

Uh-oh, I was hoping to be able to caution him that the two cans of tuna we left there should only be eaten in case of dire hunger. I had one of them and decided I would rather be hungry than eat any more, by far the worst tuna I’ve ever had.

 

[filly]

Filly I have my tracks on wikiloc, same user name. I can’t remember this specific spot, but I do remember that I didn’t get lost!

From here on you are going to see a fair amount of convergence with Camino del Cid. But sometimes the Camino del Cid stays on the road and the Ruta de la Lana takes you off into the fields on ag tracks, which is always nicer.

Thanks. It wasn’t that I was getting lost… just that I wanted to stay on the Lana.

Anyway I think both rural tracks lead to the village and I show a photo.

Basically the yellow arrows vanish. El Cid takes precedence.

Apart from my surprise stop this morning, there has been nothing! Shortage of water too! Duly warned I carried food for lunch and dinner and breskfast.

Long life milk, even opened, survives. Greek yoghurt is also a success. Set honey has been the star luxury.

ps your tins of tuna are no longer around. There is a coffee machine and microwave.

 

[filly]

A hot long day - started late and arrived at Q.at 18.30

Had many breaks and Cesar salad (all plastic containers but delish and healthy).

A lady in the previous village came out with flasks of cool water plus peach and platanos…

Tomorrow and Tuesday hitting high 30’s again but I can get going early. The days are already shorter!

No sign yet of exhilaration at Wimbledon win.