LIVE from the Camino ‘Live’ on the Lana

[filly]

Aiming for the Monastery tomorrow and Vespers..

It feels as though it is all calming down. Rural scenes today. Good paths but the highlight was the church at Zayas de Báscones. Lovely arch partly hidden by unusual secondary set of doors. Good porch with trunk supports.

Also the Ermita de la Virgen de las Lagunas.

 

[filly]

Re Albergue in Quintanarraya

5 beds plus two mattresses

Microwave and pod coffeemaker

Contact Carmen on 00 34 677 504 970

or her friend on 00 34 676 785 894

 

[filly]

Another heat wave is starting today. I cannot risk heatstroke and limited access to water so have decided to head off to Santo Domingo de Los Silos today; tomorrow Covarrubias - then the bus to Burgos leaves from here, twice a day, apparently.

It is not the weather for exploring Clunia, further gorges, Sad Hill… sad but sensible. Yesterday was a long day and the Burgos segment might just spoil a great Camino experience.

Thank you for all the wise and welcome suggestions and appreciation.

The Wikiloc will get sorted once I have good access to internet. The slow speed and variable connection has made uploading photos a protracted process… the idea of any more complicated wizardry is currently beyond me!

 

[VNwalking]

then the bus to Burgos leaves from here, twice a day, apparently.

A pity to miss the landscape and Santa Maria de Lara, but your decision also sounds wise.
BTW, I bypassed it altogether but remember Alan Sykes saying he had a very nice meal in Covarubbias more than once. Hang on lemme check: I'll edit with a quote if I find it.
Here's the short version from our planning thread:

Next time I think I'll try to stay in Covarrubias, which I like very much indeed. Not only for the treasures in the Colegiata, but also for the Michelin "bib gormande" restaurant El Galo, in which I've had three excellent lunches, and which I think is where the teenage Lorca stayed when he visited. The locals seem to have cheered up a bit since he commented on the "amargo sello del aburrimiento trágico del la población."

 

[filly]

Already pretty hot! The farmers are very busy… storms in the offing.

Decided to book hotel with pool for today and tomorrow!

Thank you for the restaurant recommendation!

Storks once more.

Visited the church in Huerta but off the beaten track.

 

[filly]

UV very high. My side pocketed tube of SPf 50 sun cream could not handle the heat snd has decided to blister open!

Plenty of watering spots today.

Fire risk on high alert. Outdoor barbecues currently banned.

 

[peregrina2000]

Re Albergue in Quintanarraya

Contact Carmen on 00 34 677 504 970

or her friend on 00 34 676 785 894

This is good information for future Lana pilgrims, because just a few short weeks ago the mayor, Gelasio, was still in charge of the albergue. He is a very nice man and a busy farmer. He did tell us that he thought the charge didn’t cover the expenses and expressed little interest in the camino at all, so maybe Carmen stepped forward to help out.

With the closure of the hotel in Alcubilla de Avellaneda (caused by the sudden death of the licensee, which has left the town scrambling to find a replacement, but so far no luck), the only option would be Huerta de Rey. That’s a bigger town with lots of services and a decent hostal, but no albergue that I know of.

cannot risk heatstroke and limited access to water so have decided to head off to Santo Domingo de Los Silos today; tomorrow Covarrubias - then the bus to Burgos leaves from here, twice a day, apparently.

Sounds like a good decision, filly — I am glad you found a hotel with a swimming pool. Enjoy your last few days. We will miss your many exuberant posts!

 

[filly]

The hotel is fab. I had a BATH! Pool soon.

The heat is beyond comprehension. Beats anything on the Levante as it is relatively humid.

Ole Filly on the way in, 1 kms or more before Santo Domingo, took a ‘short cut’ on a loop and then spotted another trail heading downwards… so off he went. Down another gorge and landed in the camp site! Great views of the Monastery across… a field of lavender!

So pleased I am in Euros 51 inc desayuno buffet ( booking.com ) twin single with air con. Hotel Santo Domingo de Silis. Perfect ESPECIALLY as the cloister/museum is CLOSED on Monday so may have been difficult to gain access to the Albergue.

Heard the organ thundering so will attend mass later.

Took the ‘high’ mountain road. Hardly demanding at this point! However, the road has been resurfaced from Huertas so radiant black. Watch out though.. left at first junction, then left again then right into the forest.

Do NOT follow white/yellow stripes - only red/white or Camino del Cid or flecha amarilla. Also nb that Camino Cid posts point both ways so take care: N/NW is your compass point.

 

[filly]

 

[VNwalking]

Geeze. Bummer the cloister is closed. But SDdS is a special place, so there's that. And I'm glad Casa Guzman is still up to snuff!

Meanwhile tomorrow morning, just make sure you're heading the right way. I mistakenly went over the hill past Sad Hill cemetery, on the GR 82. It'll get you to Covarubbias alright, but it's much longer.

Both routes start by going more or less North, so it's confusing. Just stay in the valley at first; if you find yourself headed uphill without having crossed the road, check. The Camino crosses the BU910; the other way via Contreras and Sad Hill goes over it sight unseen (there's a tunnel for the road).

The ORANGE line is what you want.
The fat blue one is what I did. It was one of the best mistakes ever, because it was an unbelievably gorgeous landscape. Well, in March that's one thing. But in the heat of July?
Nonononono.

Buen Camino for your last day on the Lana!!! I'll miss these posts, @filly

 

[filly]

Boy… I have slept so well. The Mass must have helped.

Euros 51.45 inc breakfast for a room facing the Monastery wall. No traffic… but a sudden puff of smoke from the kitchen extractor announced, maybe tostadas.. rather than the next Pope.

My hands are healing; only a few thorns and splinters left. My hiking clothes are shredded as is the stretchy mesh of my backpack. But I’m still here… and STAYING until Claustra opening time. I have my sturdy hat and I shall brave the midday sun one last time.

Sorry’s are due: for venting my aggravation at times; for banging on about food and museums; for the typos; for the photos I repeat; for the photos which somehow refuse to upload; for the photos added in error due to my fat finger.

Thanks for being there, somewhere, and understanding this pull of N/NW (great film with that name btw).

I always so admired @Magwood with her planned mega Camino. She inspired me totally. I was not sure I could ‘do it again’ post-pandemic. I have.. almost. Gracious ‘gracias’ to ever-available @peregrina2000: she was always ready with a hint, a suggestion, a caution, watching over my safety and utterings.

… and to Ivar and his team; the ‘deus ex machina’ safely in his new den in Santiago.

and … to be continued!

 

[VNwalking]

Sorry’s are due

Appreciate the big-heartedness of this, @filly . but no they're not! This has been a wonderful tread, beginning to end.
Gracias!

May your day out there be a gentle joy.

 

[filly]

L O L very loud! What a whopper of a Freudian slip/slipper/tread - thread!

Indeed, what a tread…

 

[VNwalking]

Oh, funny.
I didn't notice of course, and it took a few beats for the penny to drop. Scratching my head thinking, "What's filly going on about?"
I'm not going to change it either.
It's too cute.

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

Just extraordinary. I will try and stay here next time…

BTW today Tuesday, 08.10 bus from opposite main entrance to Monastery to Burgos, via Lerma I believe.

Just had an email response from bus operator to state that there is no bus service tomorrow from Covarrubias.. so much for Rome2Rio…

.

 

[VNwalking]

It IS a bit special, isn't it?
@filly, I have to say: that photo of the twisted column and the box hedging in the cloister? Just extraordinary. Send it to @mspath in a PM if you want to make her day (I don't think she's here).

bus service tomorrow from Covarrubias.

*%#&!!!
But a taxi should be easy. Covarubbias is worth the walk!

 

[filly]

Felt horsey today! Très filly…. so opted for the Camino del Cid route.

Reality check = serious fires here on 22 Julio 2022

 

[filly]

Late lunch… telly, newspaper and a rare ‘fruit machine’ plus some character locals. What more could I wish for…

In Retuerta, I circled the church, heard voices… parted the string curtain and asked if I could buy a cold beer. No beer, sorry as no bar (it closed three years ago). I insisted… could they just sell me a beer if they had one? Penny dropped.. it appeared and I insisted on paying an euro. The Camino effect!

 

[filly]

OK Covarrubias… fantastic. Roasting and humid and heaven.

A tower the like of which I have never seen.

Tarted up, granted but in the best possible taste. A medieval village which feels authentic and has THE most beautiful street litter bins ever.

Fab houses en route. A great forest hike.

I will be back…

Hostal at Euros 67 inc breakfast.. and pool!

I know some may think I am flashing my Waitrose credit card BUT THESE PEOPLE NEED THE BUSINESS.

 

[filly]

Bus stop shown.

 

[filly]

I have finished. I have not fallen once, for a change.

This is my favourite Camino to date - no doubt about it.

When I get home, time for thank you cards to those recalled who went the extra kilometre to assist and support. There were many… a postcard of the Late Queen, or King Charles or perhaps Milly, suitably coiffed.

The rule of hikers is ‘leave no trace’. My peregrino rule is to leave an Albergue better than on arrival - leaving soap or a corkscrew, buying some dish liquid, organising or clearing up the mess; cleaning a blocked shower outlet of amassed hair, or reducing the temperature of a water heater from scalding to plain hot!

Little notes to show appreciation; a small tip on the pillow in a hotel for the chambermaid.

Taking away one rubbish and recycling as appropriate.

Thank you España for making this possible; thank you local Associations for your assiduous marking; thank you Guardia Civil for waving me on and ensuring I am safe.

Maybe one final blog. Just a few matters to finalise.

Now its hols! Burgos and Bilbao, here I come! …via El Corte Inglés, where else.

 

[mspath]

It IS a bit special, isn't it?
@filly, I have to say: that photo of the twisted column and the box hedging in the cloister? Just extraordinary. Send it to @mspath in a PM if you want to make her day (I don't think she's here).

*%#&!!!
But a taxi should be easy. Covarubbias is worth the walk!

I am now and loving it. Thanks for thinking of me. Filly all your phohos are wonderful but the heat must be dreadful.
Keep on keeping on, do stay safe, and Carpe diem.

 

[filly]

BURGOS

I love the self-service Cathedral stamp in the shoppe on the way out! A bit of ablet down after all the effort. Oh well, another cerveza (tubo) in my favoured place on the square ( much changed since the pandemic and specialised is SMOOTHIES - really, why not just eat the fruit in Spain?!?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Filly, thanks for sharing your journey, it's been a pleasure following you.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh so sorry to see this come to an end! Filly, I don’t know how much time you have in Burgos, but I would highly recommend a visit to the Monasterio de las Huelgas. And, while youpre at it, a meal at Los Trillos (not the in-town one, the one near the monastery) would be right up your meat-eating alley. Some pics and my blog here.

Thank you forl being in such close contact with the forum, it has been really fun to follow you!

 

[filly]

Can I ever finish..,

Well - reality check is the UK rail strike on my return date… so indeed, Carpe Diem!

Wise words from @peregrina2000 are never wasted on me, but safely stored.

So indeed, day planned around food and food for thought! ie Los Trillos restaurant in the University area (what buildings.. on the Camino Francés route west) and (free today) guided (NO photos) visit to the Real Monasterio de Las Huelgas, a riverside walk from central Burgos.

… followed by a ‘museo-filly’ special: Museo de Burgos (free for jubilado) (late summer opening until 20.00).

- and then, Eureka!, it all comes together. Treasures from Santo Domingo de Silos, artefacts from Clunia etc. The richness and wealth of the Iberian Peninsula. This is the added extra of hiking and living through the land.

I remember passing Atapuerca and subsequently visiting the Museum of Human Evolution and feeling so very privileged that I had walked through this special land.

I am now quite ready to follow in Laurie’s footsteps with my own ‘Reflections on the Lana’, but come they will.

In the meantime a few more flashes!

A drip dry fuente. The edge erosion is proof of the usage over centuries…

The ‘pisé’ river pebble path sample square is based on that of the claustra in Santo Domingo de Silos and was used at Las Huelgas.

The silk garment is 13 th century of Eleanor of Plantagenet heritage.

The casket is Limoges enamel and from Santo Domingo de Silos (referred to helpfully by @cclearly

 

[filly]

Santo Domingo casket front so admired by @cclearly

Tree of Dominican order

I thought it important to mention laundering having been past so many spring and riverside washing troughs. (Common in France and Spain but not in UK)

Menu and bill for Los Trillos - special for carnivores…

 

[filly]

… and at the end of a Camino, I generally purchase a new Panama hat. There is a multi-generation shop in Santiago (calle Vilar possibly..).

Equivalent tienda found in Burgos!



… and when I was crossing the Duero at San Esteban de Gormaz, I was reminded of the bridge at Mérida AND Puente de Lima - it came to me in the middle of the night.

 

[peregrina2000]

What a BRILLIANT idea - Filly got the Plato Infantil, which was probably way more than most adultos could eat anyway! I remember that @Juanma ordered us what was normally a plate for two, and there were three of us. We struggled mightily, but we finished it!!!

And like you, I thought that last room in Huelgas, with all the ancient clothing, shoes, etc, was just amazing.

Rail strike on return date sounds ominous, but if it means you are “stuck” in Burgos for a few more days, what’s not to like?!

 

[filly]

… on the food front … I actually ordered a salad (unusually pre-dressed, and a little overload on the vinegar front) a lubina a la brasa and a child’s portion of entrecot… for review reasons, of course! The meat arrived soon after the salad, so I cancelled the fish.

Rule 1 - never stray from a menú del día

Rule 2 - à la carte - maybe order one course at a time, if time is not of the essence…

 

[mspath]

… on the food front … I actually ordered a salad (unusually pre-dressed, and a little overload on the vinegar front) a lubina a la brasa and a child’s portion of entrecot… for review reasons, of course! The meat arrived soon after the salad, so I cancelled the fish.

Rule 1 - never stray from a menú del día

Rule 2 - à la carte - maybe order one course at a time, if time is not of the essence…

fily,
My worst mis-understanding in another resto was ordering by pointing on a menu to what I thought would be a starter and a main plate and ending up with 2 different tureens of soup! Thus it was a very watery meal!

 

[filly]

Fab early morning sortie to find a bright yellow post box….not so easy. Then, passed the Correos and it was already open!


A quick scoot up to the mirador and a cafe con leche (sin azucar) at the bar opposite the pilgrim Albergue (decanting weary souls with a range of staffs and ragged tops!).



Then back to cross the river and spot things never noticed…

 

[filly]

The Albergue gateway




… and other sights!

 

[filly]

Thank you to whomever has granted me the elevated status of ‘Veteran Member’.

Was it in recognition of surviving the gorge cliff descent?!?

I am most appreciative!

 

[filly]

Safely in Bilbao - a fav jetting off point. At my favourite restaurant. Euros 17 inc bread and wine and gaseosa.

Currently on the best cheesecake of my life. Not too sweet (as in Japan - they rarely overdo the sugar fix). Lovely staff - on Calle Hernani at the top. AGAPE - ideal for an off-duty pilgrim.

Checked out on-town Decathlon for new 40 litre mochilla.

The place is über-buzzing since my pre Covid visit. Quite a change from Burgos.

… and in honour of Laurie, I sourced a water boiling wand!