LIVE from the Camino ‘Live’ on the Lana

[C clearly]

Do I give this ‘friend’ the benefit of the doubt or is it toast? Your opinion matters to ME.

You haven't given us any information for us to understand the problem. However, benefit of the doubt is usually wise.

 

[peregrina2000]

Do I give this ‘friend’ the benefit of the doubt or is it toast? Your opinion matters to ME.

Always give friends the benefit of the doubt. That is always good advice, IMHO, but particularly when our ”friendshihp” is based on online communications only. I am willing to bet that whatever the issue, if you and unnamed friend had been in the same room together, it would not have taken whatever negative turn it has taken.

life just too short to hangout with negativity and disdain for too long.

This is such good advice. I have thought recently about one person I used to consider a good friend and then that person totally betrayed the trust and confidence of another good friend. This was years ago, and I totally severed the relationship. That is the first and only time I’ve ever done that, but have wondered recently whether I really want to go to my grave (sorry to be dramatic) with that bit of negativity. So,filly, mty answer is yes, I think you should apply the benefit of the doubt criterion.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am still a novice at posting things so here is the full menu. I am so grateful to peregrina2000 for sending me here (and there.. over the years - a true and valued ‘guardian angel’.

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Parga!!! Wow, I remember the first (and maybe only time) I had Parga. It was in the restaurant in Baamonde on the Norte, run by the man with the long beard who did all the cooking and made the queimada. He may have been somehow related to the artist whose house and garden was near the little church. He told us it was a river fish, and I remember thinking it was totally yummy. In fact, I am now going to rack my brain to remember more details about this place, thanks for mentioning it, filly! I think the place has closed. But surely some forum members will remember it.

 

[filly]

I am sorry if I did not give ‘background’… I just don’t know what it was all about.

It was simply that said friend considered my action as being contradictory. I foolishly told them to follow my blog online… but they saw it as a preference to communicating with said ‘friend’ and saw themselves very much as ‘second fiddle’.

It takes time to put thoughts to keyboard, especially on a diminutive iphone (I left charger and cable in Fuentes..)

It is just that it feels safe and comfortable and a just return to blog and give back to those who have prepared the way ( kevin o*brien, magwood, peregrina2000 inter alia ). And they do a worthy and professional job as opposed to my feeble, typo-prone effort.

I have never before revealed my blog and moniker to any non-hiker. Have you?? Do reveal, please…

 

[filly]

Peregrina2000 - you are the ‘Laurie who never sleeps’!!

Anyroads, I gave your second resto recommendation a miss as it was unpatronised and linked to a hotel..

So my finale luncheon is Michelin rated Casas Colgadas (chef / Jesús Segura).

 

[filly]

A ‘light’ lunch… quite delicious! I feel as though I am in an Almadovar film. Cool and clean and stylish. Only Spanish in attendance.

At last ‘albondigas de cerdo’ in a small portion. Green gazpacho (green tomatoes and green peppers, bread, onion and olive oil). Avocado ice cream with matcha/white chocolate flakes, espresso granita and white chocolate cream. Euros 30. Slow food. Ready to roll tomorrow. Wine is Rioja at Euros 4.50

 

[filly]

Just made it to Villar. Greeted by Xavier at the bar by name! The word gets around…

Not too hard to get started again. It is a ‘kind’ stage - beautiful vistas, a lovely wide track heading down to the N road. Lovely scents of ripening figs, a few lime trees, a great stretch of Spanish broom and, once more, rosemary and thyme ( do they always go together, as in the song.. )

Maybe more later.

 

[filly]

Peregrina2000 - you are the ‘Laurie who never sleeps’!!

Anyroads, I gave your second resto recommendation a miss as it was unpatronised and linked to a hotel..

So my finale luncheon is Michelin rated Casas Colgadas (chef / Jesús Segura).

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Here is Piola Pianobar yesterday evening..

 

[filly]

Here is Piola Pianobar yesterday evening..

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Sorry - Gastrobar!

 

[peregrina2000]

Sorry - Gastrobar!

Wow, I stayed near there, and one night on the way back to the hotel, I heard noise, so I went down the little street and had a vino tinto there with a good tapa or two. It was definitely lively, so go figure. But it looks like you found a good substitute.

 

[Magwood]

Do I give this ‘friend’ the benefit of the doubt or is it toast? Your opinion matters to ME.

I would say give the benefit of doubt, whilst continuing to do what suits you best. I think the urge to walk the camino is difficult for some to understand.

 

[peregrina2000]

Just made it to Villar. Greeted by Xavier at the bar by name! The word gets around…

Did you walk right by the Roman ruins at Noheda? I think @C clearly would have not stopped but I thought it was so worth it! Free admission and a good “tour” by a very knowledgeable guide.

 

[filly]

8 pm. Albergue is petite. Mopped the floors! I like to be barefoot and it is a simple contribution I can make.

However, a MOUNTAIN of clean ironed sheets and pillowcases. Even fresh towels. Nada else. I am leaving a smart small spoon! I always travel with a mug and a Tupperware… means I can have museli before I head off.

I always have a good lunch! Good thing too as the bar is firmly closed! (Alternative ‘La Plaza’ is firmly ‘to let’.

This is an Albergue where you need to be inventive!



The bathroom has hot water and the attraction of what used to be called a ‘thunderbox’ - a loo/john with fabulous high-level sonorous flushing!

No tienda BUT a Repsol petrol station with cold beer and fruit juice, bread and a selection of obesity friendly delicacies of the sweet and salty persuasion: not for me.

On the return a lovely lady opposite the bar is at the ready with a ‘litero of leche’ - I give her an ‘abrazos’ and Euro 1. Saved! … and another prayer to be said in Burgos Cathedral (no hardship as I am always entranced therein.

I still send postcards when I can find them. Buson/postboxes have become rarer here but the Ayuntamiento generally sports one.



I always love the older, cherished cars. Butter yellow is back ‘in’ as a colour choice. Here is a classic Fiat (nb NOT Seat) 127, 900/CL in original outfit.

and lo! patience rewarded - El Bar Goyo springs to life and telly as I drink my Euros 1.40 my can outside before entering said hostelry.

Cheers, my amigos…

 

[filly]

I would say give the benefit of doubt, whilst continuing to do what suits you best. I think the urge to walk the camino is difficult for some to understand.

Thank you. Wise words. You ‘get it’.
I am here in a fairly deserted high street. Some neighbours are chatting a house, some on a bench, others hanging on the their bikes. Birds twitter. The sky is interesting. It is getting cooler. Very occasional traffic. I am on a bench outside the suddenly, magically reopened Bar El Goyo with the telly blaring, invitingly inside AND THIS IS CAMINO HEAVEN! Go figure. I am fit (still), free, nurtured, considered a crazy but nevertheless respected. Total, utter bliss. I am safe, catered for and urged on by Ivar and his gang. I am just SO grateful and happy… and exhausted.Cheers for another caña!

 

[filly]

Did you walk right by the Roman ruins at Noheda? I think @C clearly would have not stopped but I thought it was so worth it! Free admission and a good “tour” by a very knowledgeable guide.

At the small hamlet of Noheda, before the site, there is an office. Door ajar so as usual I popped in. Lovely lady confirmed visita from THURSDAY thru SUNDAY but she gave me a tour on her computer. I took the N320 from this point.

I did the via de la Plata twice. Second time was so that I could visit Italica.. first time was on a dreaded Monday when such places are generally closed.

ps I aim todo the Plata again next year: a firm favourite. As I may well do another Lana. Unlike MacDonalds.. I’m loving it!!!

 

[C clearly]

I think @C clearly would have not stopped

I definitely wanted to visit. My only issue was that I needed (and got) taxi assistance at the start because I would have found it difficult to walk 20 km before 11 a.m., when the tour was scheduled.

 

[filly]

Today TONDOS got my five star rsting for the sheer number of benches! What a treat.. and there were some in the shade with good aspects to boot!

Another museum for next time.. at the university on the way out

Second photo is of a special private Camino market

Third is of the first grain silo I have encountered. This is a productive area of cereals

A lovely day. Tomorrow the indomitable PEPE of great renown!

 

[filly]

1. first apple tree
2. lovely to see a weighbridge..
3.
lunch snack, dinner snack inc. with bevvy



What a crack! … and we worry about subsidence in the UK!

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Enjoying this thread, filly, but been unable to contribute. I walked Alicante to Cuenca before Covid and a lot of it is lost in time to me but I've now caught up. Cuenca to Siguenza I walked last October and Siguenza to Burgos in May this year.

Is that silo you photographed the one that doubles up as a climbing wall? I remember that one and I remember Bar Goyo and that albergue. Simple as it was, I reached there after a heavy downpour and a really clinging muddy stretch of Camino (the only rain I encountered, I think). I really appreciated the shelter and the food and beers in the bar.

'Camino Angels' is another topic - they are everywhere. When you least expect them and also when you most need them. The human race, with or without wings, is fundamentally good.

Buen camino.

 

[filly]

You haven't given us any information for us to understand the problem. However, benefit of the doubt is usually wise.

The binmen came by at 03.00 to empty the two containers nearby… and eureka! I realise what the issue typifies.

As a hiker, I am away from the ‘noise’ of the world. Smartphones enable our other world to intrude… and this is an example of that happening. It breaks my personal journey and train of thinking. It was an unwonted intrusion.

Thank you for helping me to see clearly (pun intended!).

 

[filly]

Hot off the press!

Relaxing at the closed bar in Torralba, outside, having noted that it opens at 10.00 when at 08.36 a car screeches to a halt and out pop the innkeepers. Within minutes a coffee is proffered and a tostado is no problem. Angelic indeed!



Leaving Villar and looking back there is a really impressive range of ‘cuevas’.



Amazingly, my speeds are up, probably due to Cuenca break, cooler weather and relatively flat trail.

 

[dick bird]

If you meet up with Pepe, and if you are in Vilaconejo de Trabaque, you will, don´t expect an early night. Here they are in the infamous bodega. There is something special about quaffing wine when you are sitting five feet away from where it was made.

 

[filly]

Thanks for the pleasureable warning!

Apparently Luis posts on à Facebook page so my impending arrival is a fait accompli.

Trust you saw my post on arrival into Cuenca by road. I simply adored the town. Worth the Lana in itself.

I have only 6kms to go. Having a few jars in the truckers caff on the way in to Albalate de las Nogueras.

Great bar! Pamplona in full swing!!

Lovely valley walk day. Scented à la Badedas (remember bath time, remember pine essence bath oil… très 1980’s)

 

[dick bird]

Scented à la Badedas

Be careful. Things happen after a Badedas bath. Sorry I sold you a bum steer about the way into Cuenca. That´s the problem with alternatives, you never know what the other one was like. In my defence, I believe at least one old hand (who will remain nameless) recommended the same thing.

 

[filly]

Hey it all works out.

Here I am in Pépé land. Egged on by another member, I got my non-cleaning togs off and set to work clearing the place to make it more home-like and logically sorted. Balcony cleared of decaying wood effects, brushed and washed (likewise kitchen/bedroom/bathroom.

About six trips to the bin. Inspired by Marie Kando.. and more.

Pol met me and checked me in. Opened up the Ermita which has been sensitively restored inside and out.

Shop open until 2pm. Then reopens at 16.00 until 20.00

Same hours from 10am for 25 meter municipal outdoor pool with view on to the Ermita. Snacks and drinks at poolside. Bar only does sandwiches.

I think this Albergue is inspired by a Parador - good space and grandiose, though the furniture is somewhat rickety. For cooler period pilgrims, I did locate one fan heater in the understairs store.

I will explore this village later.

However, my heart fell for Albalate de las Nogueras. Just ‘my kinda pueblo’. Great views behind the church and the ‘cueva’ riverside walk is enchanting. Never have I seen so many picnic spots.

Earlier, leaving Torralba, looking back, one sees the fragmentary remains of the ‘white tower’ offset clumsily by a telecommunications mast..

A great day altogether. Skipping along with joy. A doe and two foot long geckos spotted me; I espied a bird of prey circling overhead.

A lovely avenue of burch trees to greet one on the last rural leg off the roadway.

 

[dbier]

… on another track.

A ‘budding’ friendship has resulted in my being castigated for ostensibly longing for the peace and quiet and thoughtfulness and mindfulness of the Camino whilst reaching out and communicating with Ivar’s web of like-minded souls. I was really shocked and put out as you lot, out there, never met, but ‘known’ and trusted ARE my support network who keep me (and others) going when one is parched/lost/in pain/foodless and blindly searching.

My friends and family can’t understand the urge to hike, and specifically in Spain and on Caminos and always NW to the field of stars.

Do I give this ‘friend’ the benefit of the doubt or is it toast? Your opinion matters to ME.

Abrazos…

I would ask why he/she feels threatened by your reaching out...for so they do. They need to own their own feelings, rather than chastising you for how *they* feel.

If they can't answer/ won't answer, then that's your second chance and done.

 

[filly]

I would ask why he/she feels threatened by your reaching out...for so they do. They need to own their own feelings, rather than chastising you for how *they* feel.

If they can't answer/ won't answer, then that's your second chance and done.

Thank you for your thoughtfulness…

I ultimately believe they were somewhat jealous of the ‘intimate’ tone of blog communications - I always feel that I am talking to like-minded people (at least thise who message back or ‘like’.

I also now realise that I partly write my thoughts as an aide mémoire for myself, for later. This is seconded by others who can compare notes.

Your comments much appreciated.

 

[Magwood]

I have such good memories of the exceptional welcome and hospitality we received. Pepe was called away on business so Antonio and Paulino treated six of us to a wonderful evening of food and wine and great stories. Never to be forgotten. Paulino even drove to find us en route the next day and treated us to a coffee.

 

[filly]

A lovely place to stay at - so special to be attached to the Ermita of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception.

A very warm and somewhat muggy night…

 

[filly]

Just made it into Albendea. Nothing in village centre… I went to the pool to drink/swim but too early!

Ford was fine - cooled feet, newly socked and into Keen sandals.

1 1/2 hours into the hike, the scenery is spectacular! Things do happen after a Badedas bath! Actually I did have a bath (perfect size for me) to use up the hot water: there was even a plug…

K O*B promises more fine vistas for the remainder.

There are more bus stops. Photo of crop for benefit of Clare (Canada) and Laurie (USA) who were here end May.

 

[filly]

Valdeolivas - church yard locked!

Apparently only one bar/tienda. Having a ‘hara’ - the word for a tankard (usually taken from the freezer!)

 

[filly]

Just over 7 hours.

I was given VERY short shrift at Bar Cazador, which was closing just before 13.30 and the publican had no idea about an Albergue let alone a key!

Anyway, Vanessa ( also Vicky ) is your girl at a much more salubrious establishment on the Plaza de la Fuente Grande ‘La Mazmorra’.

 

[filly]

Valdeolivas - church yard locked!

Apparently only one bar/tienda. Having a ‘hara’ - the word for a tankard (usually taken from the freezer!)

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There were actually two further bars in the Plaza Nueva… but the hotel looked closed snd the Casas Rural undergoing works.

 

[filly]

Made it to Trillo! A very popular plsce (in spite of the nearby nuclear plant!). The place is PACKED so delighted to have a choice of NEW BEDS in the pristine Albergue.

I called the last weekend number and s kind gent rolled along with a key
: no ‘sello’, no charge.

Nearby mini market shutters were on the way down but were re-elevated for yours truly.

Now in queue at THE PLACE TO EAT in Trillo - Casa David on the river. From the albergue go past the bridge and first walkway right.

Now for the albergue next to the bullring:

 

[filly]

Leaving Samerón just after six, I was not prepared for the 90 minute cardio routine of ‘arriba, arriba’ but I made it. Marking perfect unlike the past few days.

I took the woodland way with an autovia camino, newly widened, then branched off to Villaescusa de Palositos. Fence access as described by K O*B no issue. few loose horses; some orchestra of dogs behind high, padlocked gates. The apsidal church with north facing belfry resplendent in silhouette but unapproachable. Thereafter one fastened gate… and another firmly padlocked which necessitated some 80’s limbo dance moves!!!

No-one in residence in the Dallas hacienda.

Just a lovely day, though it’s hotting up again.

ps Luis in Cuenca told me he hiked Cuenca to Burgos in twelve days. I would like to shotten Sigüenza to Burgos to seven: ideas WELCOME re accom.

pps I have tried to contact Hostal Las Vegas as recommended bu @Magwood but get no reply. Has anyone stayed recently?

 

[peregrina2000]

I had to look at Maggie’s blog to see where the Las Vegas was because it didn’t ring a bell. That was their way of lengthening what would otherwise have been a short day from Trillo to Cifuentes. It was a couple of km off camino. I tried calling the phone number listed for their location on googlemaps but it’s been busy. 34 919 847 403 Is that the number you’re calling? Maybe they take the phone off the hook during meal time, since it is Saturday lunch time now.

Maggie’s stages were Trillo to Masegoso (Hostal Las Vegas) to Mandayona to Sigüenza.
Our stages were Viana de Mondejar to Cifuentes to Mandayona to Sigüenza.

So even if you have to do a very short day tomorrow to Cifuentes, you can easily get to Sigüenza in two days.

There are two pensiones in Cifuentes but they were filled with nuclear reactor repairmen when we were there and we had quite the adventure trying to get into the albergue. I will fill you in on it if you decide to stay there and can’t get into a pensión or want to stay in the albergue (very basic, out of town a ways, but fine).

I’ll have to hunt for my Lana stuff to help with the Sigüenza to Burgos question.

 

[filly]

I had to look at Maggie’s blog to see where the Las Vegas was because it didn’t ring a bell. That was their way of lengthening what would otherwise have been a short day from Trillo to Cifuentes. It was a couple of km off camino. I tried calling the phone number listed for their location on googlemaps but it’s been busy. 34 919 847 403 Is that the number you’re calling? Maybe they take the phone off the hook during meal time, since it is Saturday lunch time now.

Maggie’s stages were Trillo to Masegoso (Hostal Las Vegas) to Mandayona to Sigüenza.
Our stages were Viana de Mondejar to Cifuentes to Mandayona to Sigüenza.

So even if you have to do a very short day tomorrow to Cifuentes, you can easily get to Sigüenza in two days.

There are two pensiones in Cifuentes but they were filled with nuclear reactor repairmen when we were there and we had quite the adventure trying to get into the albergue. I will fill you in on it if you decide to stay there and can’t get into a pensión or want to stay in the albergue (very basic, out of town a ways, but fine).

I’ll have to hunt for my Lana stuff to help with the Sigüenza to Burgos question.

Bless! as they say.

I really would like to have a day in Burgos because I can never resist visiting the Cathedral AND the stunning Cartuja de Miraflores a lovely 5kms hike SE across the fields.

 

[filly]

I do believe I have just had the best meat in Spain.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Trillo - lovely spot, especially down by the cascade, but I was there on a weekend and it was just too busy. After a sandwich and a beer I cracked on. Can't think where the albergue is. Close to the bullring?

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Leaving Samerón just after six, I was not prepared for the 90 minute cardio routine of ‘arriba, arriba’ but I made it. Marking perfect unlike the past few days.

I took the woodland way with an autovia camino, newly widened, then branched off to Villaescusa de Palositos. Fence access as described by K O*B no issue. few loose horses; some orchestra of dogs behind high, padlocked gates. The apsidal church with north facing belfry resplendent in silhouette but unapproachable. Thereafter one fastened gate… and another firmly padlocked which necessitated some 80’s limbo dance moves!!!

No-one in residence in the Dallas hacienda.

You were in luck, filly. I had an 'exciting' passage through the property - there were people up in the hacienda and their dogs! I did get up to the little church, though probably not worth the hassle. It is in a rather parlous state of disrepair.

 

[filly]

The albergue is next to the bullring / the last building on the right after you go over the bridge. Quiet and actually cool.

Now off to the picina municipal.

Gracias Trillo for this kind gesture - I would have found nowhere else to stay…

ps photo to follow

pps be inventive: drying clothes… on doorknobs, over doors, over chairs. There is even one electric room heater in one of the cleaners cupboards!

 

[filly]

Where did you stay?

 

[Bachibouzouk]

Where did you stay?

My itinerary was slightly different. I overnighted at the albergue in Mondejar de Viana, climbed the Teta de Viana the following morning, descended to Trillo, where I had a lunch break then carried on to Cifuentes. I stayed in Hostal San Roque in Cifuentes. There is/was an albergue in Cifuentes but the bar that holds the key was shut and there was no phone number. More than happy with San Roque as I heard the albergue is pretty basic (polideportivo?).

 

[peregrina2000]

My itinerary was slightly different. I overnighted at the albergue in Mondejar de Viana, climbed the Teta de Viana the following morning, descended to Trillo, where I had a lunch break then carried on to Cifuentes. I stayed in Hostal San Roque in Cifuentes. There is/was an albergue in Cifuentes but the bar that holds the key was shut and there was no phone number. More than happy with San Roque as I heard the albergue is pretty basic (polideportivo?).

Just as a heads up to other Lana pilgrims. The albergue in Cifuentes is indeed very basic, but it was clean, had beds and a bathroom with hot showers. Getting the key may be difficult, but there is one hidden outside the albergue. If you talk to the municipality and get the ok to stay there, I will be happy to PM anyone with the instructions on where to find the key. Though I speak good Spanish, the people in the ayuntamiento just could not properly describe where the key was, and we wound up having the mayor come out to show us!

 

[filly]

Trillo - lovely spot, especially down by the cascade, but I was there on a weekend and it was just too busy. After a sandwich and a beer I cracked on. Can't think where the albergue is. Close to the bullring?

The albergue is next to the bullring / the last building on the right after you go over the bridge. Quiet and actually cool.

Now off to the picina municipal.

Gracias Trillo for this kind gesture - I would have found nowhere else to stay…

ps photo to follow

pps be inventive: drying clothes… on doorknobs, over doors, over chairs. There is even one electric room heater in one of the cleaners cupboards!

Actually, over the bridge, left to rnd and it is on the right.

Now at 22.00 it os much quieter and deliciously cool. Have just done the ‘cascades’ walk / delightful! Now enhanced by ‘Philips’ lurid green/red changing spot lights! (not captured (as is the town hall rooftop clock).

A great spot. Cascade side resto still serving barbecued meats and bevvies.

Last night in Salmerón, the lovely, lively bar behind the albergue necessitated ear plugs for an unbroken nights sleep.

This is a Camino I hope to do again. I am SO enjoying it, in spite of the heat.

…. and there is so much to look forward to … the Tetas, the gorge walk, Sad Hill, off track churches.

I will reveal my ‘faux pas’ and altercation of this morning later. This changed my route somewhat to my chagrin but it is all sorted!

 

[filly]

After all these years, I have finally tried ‘tinto de verano’ and I’m taking to it. A Spanish Pimms, an unfussy sangria-like combination.

I have also noticed a sudden presence of ‘pork scratchings’ too…

 

[dbier]

I loved freshly made tinto de verano in 21....one time, I'd uso'd el baño and was following the distracted café owner back to my table. He was holding my drink, visibly searching, and muttering to himself, "Tinto...tinto..."
Perhaps because it was 11 AM...

 

[dick bird]

My itinerary was slightly different. I overnighted at the albergue in Mondejar de Viana, climbed the Teta de Viana the following morning, descended to Trillo, where I had a lunch break then carried on to Cifuentes. I stayed in Hostal San Roque in Cifuentes. There is/was an albergue in Cifuentes but the bar that holds the key was shut and there was no phone number. More than happy with San Roque as I heard the albergue is pretty basic (polideportivo?).

The albergue is basic but adequate. Confusingly, it is in the sports pavilion next to a sports field, not the polideportivo as some have reported. It's an attractive little town.

 

[filly]

The albergue is basic but adequate. Confusingly, it is in the sports pavilion next to a sports field, not the polideportivo as some have reported. It's an attractive little town.

Thanks DB. Would you have a photo by any chance of said pavilion?

 

[filly]

Any suggestions of seven day Sigüenza to Burgos?

I may just have a long final day and jump on a bus to miss the entry from the south into Burgos… Anyone remember if the final 20 kms have charm?

 

[peregrina2000]

Any suggestions of seven day Sigüenza to Burgos?

I may just have a long final day and jump on a bus to miss the entry from the south into Burgos… Anyone remember if the final 20 kms have charm?

I’ve been scratching my head a bit for the 7 day plan.

Sigüenza - Atienza is 31. The next option for sleeping, at least according to what I see, is Miedes de Atienza, and that would be 16 more kms, grand total of 47. So I think you are stuck with Atienza as your first day’s stop (very nice town, nice caste to climb up to, nice plaza, etc).

Atienza to Retortillo is 22. If you skip the GR diversion (described in Maggie’s blog), it would be another 15 to Caracena, grand total of 37.

Caracena to San Esteban. About 28, really no way to add on anything else.

San Esteban to Huerta de Rey, without the detour to Clunia, would be about 37.

Huerta de Rey to Covarrubias about 35

Covarrubias to Burgos is about 41, but you could take a bus in from somewhere along there.

HEy, that’s only 6 days! But here’s what you miss — the Roman ruins at Clunia, the gorge/desfiladero de la Yecla, the monastery at San Pedro de Arlanza and the visigothic church near Quintanilla de las Viñas.

You could pick one of those detours and then spread this out to 7 days. For instance, to see the Visigothic church at Quintanilas, go Covarrubias - Quintanillas - Modúbar de San Cibrián one day and Modúbar to Burgos the second day.

This may not help much, but it’s a start.

 

[filly]

I’ve been scratching my head a bit for the 7 day plan.

Sigüenza - Atienza is 31. The next option for sleeping, at least according to what I see, is Miedes de Atienza, and that would be 16 more kms, grand total of 47. So I think you are stuck with Atienza as your first day’s stop (very nice town, nice caste to climb up to, nice plaza, etc).

Atienza to Retortillo is 22. If you skip the GR diversion (described in Maggie’s blog), it would be another 15 to Caracena, grand total of 37.

Caracena to San Esteban. About 28, really no way to add on anything else.

San Esteban to Huerta de Rey, without the detour to Clunia, would be about 37.

Huerta de Rey to Covarrubias about 35

Covarrubias to Burgos is about 41, but you could take a bus in from somewhere along there.

HEy, that’s only 6 days! But here’s what you miss — the Roman ruins at Clunia, the gorge/desfiladero de la Yecla, the monastery at San Pedro de Arlanza and the visigothic church near Quintanilla de las Viñas.

You could pick one of those detours and then spread this out to 7 days. For instance, to see the Visigothic church at Quintanilas, go Covarrubias - Quintanillas - Modúbar de San Cibrián one day and Modúbar to Burgos the second day.

This may not help much, but it’s a start.

Hey! Noheda was way back when AND the wrond day.

You have sorted me! Visigothic churches are my bag so 7 days - done.

I had thought about the last day bus option. Anyone have any feelings about the delights of entry into Burgos from the south??

 

[C clearly]

Anyone have any feelings about the delights of entry into Burgos from the south??

I thought it was quite a pleasant walk almost into the city - nothing spectacular, but a very nice wind-down to the Lana.

 

[filly]

Made it to Cifuentes by 08.30 taking the Camino initially and switching to CM followed by N204 to gain speed.

Good view back to the Tetas and the power station.

Lovely walk with river gurgling. I gave the tree walk a miss as I generally wear a hat against sun and ticks… but when hiking fast (6kms per hour plus) my head gets too hot!

Anyway..

yesterday, I was on the lovely walk when I stepped on one end of a branch. The other end reared up, cut my leg and ripped my trousers… (goblin patched up hole at a midnight hour).

Later at this spot I became really confused and could not find the way.. all overgrown and ploughed field. I ended up taking the bici route which was much longer and mainly road. So I missed Viana altogether…

 

[dick bird]

Thanks DB. Would you have a photo by any chance of said pavilion?

No sooner said than done.

 

[filly]

Made it to Cifuentes by 08.30 taking the Camino initially and switching to CM followed by N204 to gain speed.

Good view back to the Tetas and the power station.

Lovely walk with river gurgling. I gave the tree walk a miss as I generally wear a hat against sun and ticks… but when hiking fast (6kms per hour plus) my head gets too hot!

Anyway..

yesterday, I was on the lovely walk when I stepped on one end of a branch. The other end reared up, cut my leg and ripped my trousers… (goblin patched up hole at a midnight hour).

Later at this spot I became really confused and could not find the way.. all overgrown and ploughed field. I ended up taking the bici route which was much longer and mainly road. So I missed Viana altogether…

View attachment 151923

… also, my Wikiloc froze - perhaps due to the phone being so very hot!

 

[filly]

The Ruta gets better and better!

Arriving at Cifuentes, I see a crowd. In Spain a gathering means a) something is about to happen b) a bus is appearing c) a wedding is happening and likewise if a crowd disperses, something untoward is due: a large strike of bangers just after the wedding (experienced in Almansa and got away just in time!)

This morning, arriving in Cifuentes, large queue = churreria open!!!

It is a party place. Lots of wine glasses and beer bottles dotted about. A youth in the queue practises his ‘Facebook’ English and informs me 1) he loves his town 2) I must drink water from the spring which feeds the clearest pool ever and c) that the weather means that far less lavender is grown in this area.

Moranchel in a side street boasts another open café. A really good atmosphere here. A loved place one feels…

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

Reached Las Inviernas. Bar next to the Ayuntamiento in full swing at 13.00 - just follow the voices!

The joy of the last few days has been long periods with no infrastructure visible - no houses, no pylons, no planes, no cars, no asphalt roads. Averse as I am to overuse of cars, this is heaven.

Earlier Moranchel was fun and seemed cherished: ladies well coiffed and in Sunday best, even some sun umbrellas - but not too proud to pick up doggy-do (unlike life in my London borough of Kensington).

 

[filly]

I should be able to make the truck stop on the autoroute for lunch.

My Camino Angel sorted me out at 03.00 (firmly based in Champaign, Illinois) and further to a phone call I am booked in for Euros 40 inc. basic brekkie in Aragosa (booking site quoted double). I had sent an email but in España, the phone call IS the business.

 

[dick bird]

When you pass through Siguenza, try to get a haircut from Pepe El Torero.

 

[filly]

… and a shave?!? Thanks for the heads up!

 

[filly]

… and a shave?!? Thanks for the heads up!

Please could you also reveal how one makes a donation to the site…

 

[peregrina2000]

Hey! Noheda was way back when AND the wrond day.

OOPS, I have corrected my post — I am talking about the Roman ruins at Clunia, which are about 4 kms from Quintanarraya (where we stayed) And then about 7 more km to Huerta de Rey. If you do these mega days, you will go from San Esteban and then through Quintanarraya to Huerta de Rey. We actually went to two different Roman sites, Noheda (directly on the Lana), and the bigger site at Clunia, with a theater and several villas, etc). But hey, you can’t see everything.

I won’t bother now you with the details about the day out of Covarrubias, but it does involve leaving the Lana to get to the visigothic church. You would take the San Olav into Burgos. There is a way to go back to the Lana, which @alansykes has done, but no need to talk about that now.

Enjoy the Río Dulce in Aragosa. I think I told you we didn’t stay there, but lots of forum members (most recently @dick bird and @Elena peregrina, I think) loved it. It’s a beautiful little town. And it just gets better and better from there…..

 

[filly]

… well today has gotten better and better (and hotter and hotter!)
Just arrived at the super truckers ‘Area 107’. Heaven after a fab trip from the last beer..
Lavender, lavender, lavender of all hues, resplendent with buzzing bees!
I spotted a beekeeper earlier zipping by in his SUV, astronaut-whitesuited with headgear…
Glorious scents…

 

[filly]

 

[filly]

The storm drain shows how in DRY WEATHER you can shorten your way by easily walking through rather than taking the over railway bridge. Also possible to take the diagonal agricultural track.. a compass helps N/NW

 

[filly]

nb time to get real, yes even after a somewhat boozy luncheon and more than a few kms to go.

The crops are desultory. The wheat is barely knee high. The ants have harvested already: they know. I love Spain and I feel for the hardships endured.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@filly, just found your thread about an hour ago, have thoroughly enjoyed reading through/ catching up with your journey. It’s 32 here (Germany) at the moment and I’m sitting in the shade, I do NOT envy you walking in up to 40 degrees ! As a newbie to the whole Camino concept (Ingles in April, starting the Primitivo in a week) I’m fascinated/ in awe of the veterans on this site- many of whom seem to be following this thread. My off to you all.
You said earlier that you’re no writer - I beg to differ.
And clearly, despite 35 + years travelling, I have a bit to learn about finding great food!!
Journey on!

 

[peregrina2000]

The storm drain shows how in DRY WEATHER you can shorten your way by easily walking through rather than taking the over railway bridge. Also possible to take the diagonal agricultural track.. a compass helps N/NW

I remember this day so well, it was one of our hottest, I think, but nothing like your temperatures! I decided to take the railway bridge, with the hope that I would have some trains whizzing by under me, and I did! I had a rest close to the bridge, and watched about 4 or 5 appear and dissapear in the twinkling of an eye. Clearly a fast train line! Not all RENFE, though — I saw some of the new cheaper lines.

I saw that truck stop, but I can‘t figure out how people eat a big meal and then walk on. We waited till we got to Mandayona and had a decent meal in the bar there. But you’re heading in a different direction, so maybe this was your only opportunity.

Yes, the crop failures were very much a part of this camino. When you get further north, you will start to see some that look like they will make it, but everywhere we went we heard about the impending disaster for the food supply, for the pueblos that rely on agriculture, for the workers, it is all a real tragedy.

Buen camino, filly, very much enjoying your posts. Enjoy Rio Dulce!

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I thought it was quite a pleasant walk almost into the city - nothing spectacular, but a very nice wind-down to the Lana.

I would agree. Nothing spectacular but a nice gentle gradient along the Camino Verde/former railway line. A must if you are a train buff. There are also a number of bars along the way, so you can roll into Burgos very pleasantly ;-)

 

[Bachibouzouk]

This is a Camino I hope to do again. I am SO enjoying it, in spite of the heat.

…. and there is so much to look forward to … the Tetas, the gorge walk, Sad Hill, off track churches.

And I'd like to give a shout-out to Tiermes. If I were to do the Ruta de la Lana again, I'd be looking at:

Overnight in Miedes de Atienza. The albergue has a good write-up and there is a bar/restaurant/tienda in the pueblo.
Miedes de Atienza to Tiermes (say 26 kms?), overnight at the (OK slightly expensive) hotel in Tiermes.
Double back to Losana and walk the GR through the canyon to Carcacena.
Overnight in Caracena.

Caracena wasn't an overnight option in May but it is now. I had to stay two nights in Retortillo de Soria and did Tiermes as a day trip.

 

[C clearly]

Later at this spot I became really confused and could not find the way.. all overgrown and ploughed field. I ended up taking the bici route which was much longer and mainly road. So I missed Viana altogether…

Ah, yes - the goat track! It wasn't quite so overgrown in May, but I would not have had the confidence to take it without two very convincing GPS tracks that were in agreement with the arrow. It was a fun walk although Wikiloc had to beep me back on the invisible path a few times. There was no cell phone reception, either, so I made a point to not break a leg. Neither could I confirm with @Peregrina that she had taken the same track. She was, as usual, about 2 hours ahead of me waiting for me in Viana.

 

[filly]

I am in Rio Dulce. Got in at …. 9 pm.

Totally shattered.

Long story to be continued. But basically I came down the cliff face!

 

[C clearly]

Long story to be continued. But basically I came down the cliff face!

Good that you made it! We developed a useful awareness of the topographic lines on the Wikiloc maps. We made a point of descending the hills before the lines got too close!

 

[alexwalker]

Covarrubias to Burgos is about 41, but you could take a bus in from somewhere along there.

Covarubbias to Burgos is ca. 63 kms. by foot, walking the Camino San Olav in reverse: Ca. 45 mins. by bus. It is leaving at 9 AM just outside the city arch entrance to Covarrubias.

Here is the guide to that Camino:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/el-camino-san-olav-a-walkers-guide.518/

 

[peregrina2000]

Covarubbias to Burgos is ca. 63 kms. by foot, walking the Camino San Olav in reverse:

@filly is walking the Lana and was asking about getting from Sigüenza to Burgos in a week, so I think that adding 20 more kms is not going to be possible. Covarrubias to Burgos on the Lana is actually 42, not 41. I do have some ideas about how he could walk a part of the San Olav, and still get to Burgos in the week time frame, but that would involve cutting out the visit to the Ermita, so it really wouldn’t be a San Olav for him.

 

[filly]

@filly is walking the Lana and was asking about getting from Sigüenza to Burgos in a week, so I think that adding 20 more kms is not going to be possible. Covarrubias to Burgos on the Lana is actually 42, not 41. I do have some ideas about how he could walk a part of the San Olav, and still get to Burgos in the week time frame, but that would involve cutting out the visit to the Ermita, so it really wouldn’t be a San Olav for him.

I can’t seem to turn my auto-alarm off (any ideas???) but @ peregrina2000 ‘camino of thought’ reminds me of those stunning Visigoth churches on the San Salvador, including the one incongruously in the suburbs of Oviedo (not the ‘two in one’ in the fields). I remember the door being ajar and I barged into some event - welcomed, as ever, as a pilgrim!

Here at the Rio Dulce establishment, I literally collapsed on the roadway, unable to speak, somewhat bloodied and dusty. Kiddies intrigued by dishevelled would-be David Crockett!

Kids ALWAYS intrigued by my somewhat ‘Rudolf the Red Nose Pilgrim’ and the chin scars from bike accidents (wheel stuck in Metropolitan Water Board damaged cast-iron manhole cover outside the Law Courts in Fleet Street, London, if you must know! Little child looking down at me finally understood my terrible attempt at explanation, and charmingly wheeled around on an imaginary and ultimately doomed ‘bici’.

 

[C clearly]

Did you deliberately leave the track to take a shortcut to Aragosa?

 

[filly]

Actually, over the bridge, left to rnd and it is on the right.

Now at 22.00 it os much quieter and deliciously cool. Have just done the ‘cascades’ walk / delightful! Now enhanced by ‘Philips’ lurid green/red changing spot lights! (not captured (as is the town hall rooftop clock).

A great spot. Cascade side resto still serving barbecued meats and bevvies.

Last night in Salmerón, the lovely, lively bar behind the albergue necessitated ear plugs for an unbroken nights sleep.

This is a Camino I hope to do again. I am SO enjoying it, in spite of the heat.

…. and there is so much to look forward to … the Tetas, the gorge walk, Sad Hill, off track churches.

I will reveal my ‘faux pas’ and altercation of this morning later. This changed my route somewhat to my chagrin but it is all sorted!

Here is a video of the town hall on departure morning! Set me up for the day (photos if I am unable to upload video). Enjoy..
View attachment IMG_2570.MOV
View attachment IMG_2570.MOV

 

[filly]

Did you deliberately leave the track to take a shortcut to Aragosa?

…. no! I became confused (once again) at Mirabueno. Definitely not deliberate.

I had enough food, water and spare battery but really did think that I would need to overnight in the wild. Also coverage was fine..

The rio Dulce hostess (Spanish) called twice.. I said I was not far (only a gorge and a few valleys, and a cliff face as it turned out…) I am now told that there IS a track from Aragosa and a track down the cliff face but I lost the last part due to growth. I threw rocks down to judge possible route. Intriguingly the last 200 was the most difficult and my fall/slide was broken by a bramble root. Glasses still on; hat and umbrella nearby. I have learned to stay very still at such moments ‘of ultimate rest’ and to take stock - specs, where does it hurt, how to I extract myself from the compromising position etc.

I SHOULD have reversed track. However, as I have said, my Wikiloc now has a tendency to FREEZE and often will not allow me to zoom ( I am recording from Alicante so it may be a space issue ).

I LOVED the challenge - but there are a lot of brambles and spiky dead tree branches…

I had no idea about contour lines on Wikiloc etc.

 

[filly]

…. and, I must admit, to be totally frank and honest (between friends) a boozy lunch at the truckers caff was just maybe, in retrospect, not such a great idea!

I did ask for a Tinto de Verano sin hielo, after a tankard (hara/jara) of cerveza. I was not expecting a whole bottle of Gaseosa and…. one of tinto! ‘Nuff said!

 

[filly]

Here is a video of the town hall on departure morning! Set me up for the day (photos if I am unable to upload video). Enjoy..
View attachment 152060View attachment 152061
View attachment 152059
View attachment 152058

ps same goes for the cascades ALL NIGHT LONG!

 

[C clearly]

Wow! Quite an adventure! It's a good thing the days are long.

 

[filly]

@filly, just found your thread about an hour ago, have thoroughly enjoyed reading through/ catching up with your journey. It’s 32 here (Germany) at the moment and I’m sitting in the shade, I do NOT envy you walking in up to 40 degrees ! As a newbie to the whole Camino concept (Ingles in April, starting the Primitivo in a week) I’m fascinated/ in awe of the veterans on this site- many of whom seem to be following this thread. My off to you all.
You said earlier that you’re no writer - I beg to differ.
And clearly, despite 35 + years travelling, I have a bit to learn about finding great food!!
Journey on!

Are you starting the Primitivo in Ponferrada by any chance? (great private albergue called the Guina or nearly there.. Let me know if you are into museums (I can hear the ‘guffaws’ from here, you lot bemused by my fancies!)

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

No, Oviedo. As to museum's - I enjoy museum's on intemperate days, but frankly I'm going to be lucky to complete this Camino the way my leg is. Rest rather than additional walking/ standing is the order of the day this Camino.
Mind you, you seem to take 'into' to a whole new level . ! I think if I'm fortunate enough to meet you somewhere I'll be careful before taking you up on an invitation - wether it be to a museum, or a bar...!!
I did say I've read this whole thread!!
Buen Camino

 

[dick bird]

town.

…. no! I became confused (once again) at Mirabueno. Definitely not deliberate.

´Town´ is pushing it a bit for Aragosa. One of the locals (of about 8) invited us to buy it, only half-joking. Very nice place though. We had trouble getting from Mirabueno too, especially at first where Wikilocs always seemed slightly to one side of where it should have been, but after an initial scramble or two we found the dirt road and got into ´town´ unscathed. The Rio Dulce gorge is spectacular especially early morning, look out for deer. If Peterexpatkiwi reads this, the Primitivo starts in Oviedo, the Invierno on the other hand...

 

[dick bird]

This is a video/slide show I put together of our walk last year. Hope you all enjoy it. It´s about 16 minutes long.

 

[filly]

´Town´ is pushing it a bit for Aragosa. One of the locals (of about 8) invited us to buy it, only half-joking. Very nice place though. We had trouble getting from Mirabueno too, especially at first where Wikilocs always seemed slightly to one side of where it should have been, but after an initial scramble or two we found the dirt road and got into ´town´ unscathed. The Rio Dulce gorge is spectacular especially early morning, look out for deer. If Peterexpatkiwi reads this, the Primitivo starts in Oviedo, the Invierno on the other hand...

MY MISTAKE…my referring to Ponferrada. Perdonemé!

 

[filly]

This is a video/slide show I put together of our walk last year. Hope you all enjoy it. It´s about 16 minutes long.

Brilliant! Only watched what I have hiked so more to look forward to! Great to have another perspective!

 

[Magwood]

…. no! I became confused (once again) at Mirabueno. Definitely not deliberate.

I had enough food, water and spare battery but really did think that I would need to overnight in the wild. Also coverage was fine.

That sounds really scary!

I’ve made an image of your track alongside mine. It looks as though you might have ended up on the other side of the valley. I hardly dare say, but I loved the walk from Mirabueno to Mandayona. What a shame you missed it. Best wishes for easier days to come!

 

[peregrina2000]

But basically I came down the cliff face!

This could have had an unhappy ending, so I am very glad to hear that you are ok. Hoping your day today is filled with much less scariness! Or better yet, no scariness at all.

On that note, you might want to think twice before deciding whether to scale the castle at Pelegrina. By all means get up there for a good view, but I couldn’t find a path that looked reasonable.

 

[Bachibouzouk]

I'm very confused, but this happens to me more and more. I hope that wasn't the cliff (photo in 181) that you came down, filly? There was I thinking I was on a Forum of sober-minded people giving sound advice ;-)

From memory that stretch was mostly along the river until you get to Pelegrina. From your tracks (191) it looks as though you didn't go via Mandoyanna and cut a corner off to Aragosa?

The hike up to the ruins at Pelegrina is definitely worth the effort - loads of vultures circling when I was there, but the bar was closed in the village (October).

 

[filly]

This could have had an unhappy ending, so I am very glad to hear that you are ok. Hoping your day today is filled with much less scariness! Or better yet, no scariness at all.

On that note, you might want to think twice before deciding whether to scale the castle at Pelegrina. By all means get up there for a good view, but I couldn’t find a path that looked reasonable.

I am safely in Sigüenza! In a luxe bed with air/con and a somewhat bruised BTM.

Hoped to try both Michelin starred restos.. but one 5kms away is open Thursday thru Sunday only and t’other is not bookable online but open tomorrow so I shall pop by..

Otherwise:

A fine day. Left 09.30 and arrived just before 14.00 Great river walk followed by 2 kms climb from Peregrina and level walk between upright stone markers before the sudden dramatic sight of Sigüenza castle.




I did not climb up to Peregrina though had intended to check out Casa Lola.

Today, for the first time, the cicadas are on ‘repeat’. It is seriously hot. Not to put too finer point on it I have drunk MASSES and hardly whizzed.

The morning started with a shock: a Guardia Civil cordon blocking the camino, stating ‘No Pasar’. Pass I did, warily… until a bright blue ‘banger’ headed towards me and Farmer Mañuel confirmed it was all fine..





Half an hour in, I then spotted a Ruta de la Lana market positioned in a cairn, pointing AWAY from the track NW around a field… strange! Could this be ‘faux fléchage’ as I have encountered on the Chemin Stevenson… curioser and curioser.



Half an hour later, a path did join from the left.. Anyway, all I saw was one muddy patch en route.


Unlike some who need their caffeine fix, I do not and neither do I partake of an early brandy chaser… but I thought I was imaging this on the fabulous bare outcrops of rock; three HUGE birds of prey (twitchers please identify with my inadequate photos).



I am now following (and thinking of) magwood Lana (Wikiloc). My mobile seems to think it is Wikilock as it playing up dreadfully!

Please note when you start climbing after the turn to Peregrina - aim for the farm buildings but go LEFT just before. The track is VERY indistinct and overgrown.

When I hit the road, I followed it until there was a track to the right in the dip - this took me quicker to the Castle and to my deadline/for/key apartment.

A fab day. Really, I just think this Camino has so much going for it. Today was riverside and huge barley fields and birsdsong. I passed a good looking resto but being Monday there was a serious ‘Cerrado’ sign posted.

I shall soon head out and explore this place (there are intriguingly many ‘se vende’ signs..)


Delighted with my stay last night but unable to use pool or jacuzzi:spa due to ‘war’ wounds… more later on that score!

 

[filly]

...

 

[filly]

Before and after the laying on of hands by lovely Mihaela. I just collapsed on the roadway after descent from the cliff face…

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I love castles, especially ruins. They’re often in such fantastic locations - like the one above. Thanks for the pictures!
Just as a matter of interest, roughly what does a meal at a Michilin star restaurant cost where you are? (Assume it’s cheaper?)

 

[filly]

I'm very confused, but this happens to me more and more. I hope that wasn't the cliff (photo in 181) that you came down, filly? There was I thinking I was on a Forum of sober-minded people giving sound advice ;-)

From memory that stretch was mostly along the river until you get to Pelegrina. From your tracks (191) it looks as though you didn't go via Mandoyanna and cut a corner off to Aragosa?

The hike up to the ruins at Pelegrina is definitely worth the effort - loads of vultures circling when I was there, but the bar was closed in the village (October).

Yikes! I did do it! A 45 minute distance from the truckers resto at the roadway turned into 4 hours. My Wikilost took me to Algora rather than Aragosa/I took a wrong turn in Mirabueno.. I SHOULD have backtracked but relished a mini-adventure, not realising there were valleys and gorges in-between. Anyway, I survived. I was not phased or panicked. Just intent on reaching my target ultimately - I KNEW someone had done it before me (confirmed by an Aragosa inhabitant).

What I love about this forum is how committed we are a) to revealing ourselves and our foibles and b) commitment to sharing and helping

I don’t carry sticks and they would have been a hindrance in this case..

 

[filly]

Yesterday afternoon, once the ‘oven-ready’ heat somewhat subsided (heat-wave in the offing - 40 degrees plus where I have already been) I walked through this delightful town.

Decided to replace my shell-shocked Keens (scree is such a killer when tread had gone on soles).

Went into one of those ye olde shoe shops with boxes piled up the back wall and an older man storekeeper (on his mobile rather than reading a newspsper) and bought an assured ‘hecha in España’ pair of Chiruca (based in La Rioja) ideal hiking sandals. Said storekeeper three in a good pair of socks as an incentive.

Returned back to base and removed labels to discover… ‘Made in China’ (in English.. oh vey!) Spain is changing too.

 

[filly]

I love castles, especially ruins. They’re often in such fantastic locations - like the one above. Thanks for the pictures!
Just as a matter of interest, roughly what does a meal at a Michilin star restaurant cost where you are? (Assume it’s cheaper?)

I am aiming for one ce soir, thanks to a member recommendation.

FYI here is the menu from Raff’s in Cuenca.

The food was intriguing, well planned, perfect portions and in London 3 x the price!

See earlier post..