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LIVE from the Camino ‘Live’ on the Lana

filly

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2025 - Torres and Aragones
I arrived in Alicante last night, leaving a cloudy and wet Gatwick two hours late.

The airport bus is located at Alicante on the top floor. Exit and head right to the first ‘parada’. Euros 3.85 with several stops. Runs from 05.40 to 24.00

I am staying in Pension San Nicolas, bang in the old centre. Quiet and basic.

The Iglesia de Santa Maria is minutes away and I am heading off to get my first sello.

I plan to start on Wednesday at 5 am as the temperature has started to rise, though there is a welcome breeze.

I have been inspired by the threads of peregrina2000 and magwood (actually walking in the latter’s honour after her huge undertaking was cut short in 2019 due to injury).

I am staying over (for once) rather than lunging forth so as to enjoy Alicante and get a swim in!

Museums closed on Mondays so went up to the castle (169 meter training…) and the market. Tomorrow I will meet the Association - there is a discrepancy as to opening times. Their site says 11 am; others on this site say 17.00 - the Association has not replied to either of my emails but I will KNOW mañana!
 

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Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
Dearest Laurie,
You have been an inspiration over so many years. I value your recent remark to undertake future caminos with a companion or more…
You do churches and archeological sites and ‘miradors’. I do museums and open doors. Alicante is great and I have miraculously hit ‘the week’ of a festival begun in about 1950 and emulating Valencia’s ‘falla’. All great fun with a touch of the Disney. Fab weather, good food and cheer, palm trees aplenty.
Later a ‘Glamour’ fashion expo in the good-looking Disputacion.
Checked out the Amigos at Serrano 5 and it would appear the building will be open 10.00 - 13.00 this week.
The Basilica de Santa Maria was sparkling, inside and facade. The credencial was duly ‘selloed’ and gratis access granted. Cela vaut le détour as the Michelin guide used to say!
Now heading to the beach…
ps the festival dovetails with the end of school…
 
Holoholo automatically captures your footpaths, places, photos, and journals.
You do churches and archeological sites and ‘miradors’. I do museums and open doors. Alicante is great and I have miraculously hit ‘the week’ of a festival begun in about 1950 and emulating Valencia’s ‘falla’.
Sounds like a great time to be in Alicante!

Just wanted to say that my first memory of you is when you “found the solution” about what to do on the Levante leaving Villanueva de Bogas.


At that time, the forum didn’t have any emojis, but I have just added mine ten years later!

Almonacid now has an albergue that seems to be a good choice, so the horse spa is not likely to be on anyone’s list, but your post probably helped a lot of people who would otherwise have slogged into Toledo from Mora, as I did, with the endless asphalt at the end!

Buen camino amigo!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
The castle was well worth the hike (free entrance, loo’s, shop with rather good, lightweight gifts… and somehow, down a long tunnel, I accessed a ‘serviced’ lift which whisked me down to the beach! (Queue for heading upwards at Euros 2.70)
 
Well… Alicante beats all expectations. Well worth spending time here, fiesta or no fiesta.
Clean, lively, friendly. Free museums, delightful old town, great beach and greater beaches at San Juan ( a tram ride away ). Easy to navigate, elegant and stylish - it’s up there with Malaga in my almanac.
I know I’m in for a toughie en route to Orito but so far I reckon it’s worth it. (Sorry Laurie… Villajoyosa next time!)
I’m now 71 and have learned that enjoying the departure is half the fun. Before I liked to jet off… now it’s more about feeling it or rather the ‘vibe’.
It’s hot.. but I reckon I can take it. Not as dry as when I hiked the Levante in ‘14 (thanks again Laurie for the heads up on my ‘solution’. The REAL treat was seeing Toledo from El Greco’s angle by coming in on that road with the added benefit of a Parador menu del dià and THAT VIEW - worth every peseta or was it already euros!
 

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And I feel truly honoured. I wish you a mud-free camino filled with wild flowers and perfect weather.
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Another great day in Alicante. Stayed in order to meet up with the Amigos. They are open IN THE MORNINGS from 11 am to 1 pm in Sala 4 on the ground floor of Serrano 5.
I bought a copy of their 2019 Camino de la Lana guide. Euros 10. Nicely ring-bound. Lovely photo of sheep droving as cover.
Did the museums… MACA, BUMAG, The Ocean Race and Museu de Fogueres d’Alacant. All fab ‘n free (great air-con and loo’s!).
Never have I exited a Basilica and been minutes from a beach! Sand pristine and water sparkling.
So I’m set up for the off tomorrow. Paco at Novelda knows of my impending arrival and requests a call from Monforte del Cid.
Ultreia…

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Made it to Novelda in just under 6 walking hours at 5.3 kms ph. Not too bad for an old boy…

Left at 05.40 in 24 degree heat. Partying still going on in the streets.. Little traffic. Signage good. Basically head for the Cemeterio. Transport caff open just before the Cemeterio. 2 hour break (socks off) at second AVE bridge. 3 hours until real camino materialises. Glad I had Wikiloc though as trail becomes very unclear at various points. Arroyo was seco. I can appreciate it would be tough in rain…. some scrabbly climbs.

Orito was GOOD. Bar open. Does 10 euro menu del dìa Tuesday to Friday. A man, driving, hailed me, advising that he was the hospitalero! I was sorely tempted..

My drink and tostada was enhanced by six air force jets doing a white then red plume Red Arrows style followed by fighter jets. Spain always surprises…

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Monforte del Cid was not enticing. Ayuntamiento receives until 13.00 andI arriveda little late, joined a queue.. but was advised curtly to return tomorrow for a sello.

Entry to Novelda is unpreposessing. Currently awaiting Paco at 96 avenida de la Constitucion…

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The café next to the Cementerio is one of my favorites. The last human outpost before the badlands... And Orito is cute, isn't it?

Walking down from The Ermita in rain would be tough. I remember it as steep and rocky...
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Just made it into Sax… or rather to periphery as I am staying in the Paco recommended hostal El Alemandros. Euros 25 inc 07.30 desayuno. Call ahead - Francisco is your man. Email does not work!

If you are staying here make sure to take the track into Sax rather than the road as at end you only have 100 metres to go, right. Sax centro is to the left. The dining room with open fire looks promising… parrillada style

At Elda I followed the river much earlier on; you can cross it way before the ‘official’ bridge to get pleasant shade.

Another very hot day but breezy. Shade from the hillsides on leaving Novelda. Riverside walking… becoming somewhat overgrown near the dam (shorts perhaps not advised).

Daily pilates back home means I no longer feel my pack (which is way too heavy..).

I am wearing yet another pair of Chiruca hecha in Espana boots (no need to break them in as I always have the same model).

Paco went on about the ‘pilar’…. under the roadway at one point, there is a huge supporting pillar. It is clearly marked, hikers left, bicis right.

Once again Wikiloc was invaluable to keep on the straight and narrow… It is so very reasduring.

Oh! and there is a Swiss hiker on the Sureste whom I should have caught up.

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Left at 6 am and forewent brekkie to get some cool mileage in.

Flat (like Norfolk..) and well marked. Much market gardening and field workers aplenty.

Villena an ideal first cerveza and tostada. 2 good churches.

Verdict on hostal: great meal, fab mattress, air-con (control located in bedside table). But… noisy - road and autovia. Airplugs worked a treat. Quietened through the night. Maybe ask for a rear facing habitacion…

A rural left turn about 4 kms from Caudete which I nearly missed.

Delightful stylish walkway into Caudete.

Lunch in Calle Mayor - La Notaria. Not good but extraordinary! It has a ‘Eurotoque’ award!

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Now I can follow along, because we joined the regular Lana in Villena. Your meal looks great — we were there on a Sunday evening, and absolutely everything seemed to be locked up tight. We found a few tapas in a bar somewhere.

You must be a much better peregrino than I, filly, because I found the walk from Villena to Caudete to be grueling and mind-numbing.

Is that Villena’s castle in your picture? We didn’t go up, but it looked nice. Buen camino!
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Yes, Laurie. Taken this early morn. I do not mind the long stretches… looking at the bugs and the bunnies and the sprouting broccoli!

I think… of pilgrims past and future, and how I have you and magwood as ethereal camino friends and am so very grateful for all the input over the years by so many…
 
Left at 6 am and forewent brekkie to get some cool mileage in.

Flat (like Norfolk..) and well marked. Much market gardening and field workers aplenty.

Villena an ideal first cerveza and tostada. 2 good churches.

Verdict on hostal: great meal, fab mattress, air-con (control located in bedside table). But… noisy - road and autovia. Airplugs worked a treat. Quietened through the night. Maybe ask for a rear facing habitacion…

A rural left turn about 4 kms from Caudete which I nearly missed.

Delightful stylish walkway into Caudete.

Lunch in Calle Mayor - La Notaria. Not good but extraordinary! It has a ‘Eurotoque’ award!

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I like both Villena and Caudete! Breakfast in Villena never disappoints..! What is the name of the hostal in Caudete (is there more than one)? I only stayed at the albergue.
 
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
Made it into Almansa before 1pm setting off at 6am.

Hailed en route into Almansa by an Amigo on a bike. We are so few that the word gets around.

So… thanks are due to Kevin O*Brien for his excellent reportage. As always, I worry before I get going… and then it just happens!

Caudete - albergue now Euros 8, no washing machine, very small shower room.

The Amigos have a jolly downstairs, of a Friday evening. Not so jolly for a peregrino trying to sleep upstairs! Followed by Party Plaza outside. Earplugs again. Didn’t really affect me - I’m still here or rather there!

Fabulous sunrise. Early on I could have been in a Claude Lorrain landscape.. later on bucolic fertile fields and wooded hillsides. Later still it is railway lines and the A31 autovia.

When you see Almansa/Albecete signposted on the motorway, take care. Just after the wide stormdrain with tunnels under the motorway, go LEFT on the agricultural track (ignore privado etc.) otherwise you are on the longer road way.

I was last in Almansa in 2014. The economy has strengthened no end. No more unfinished tracks of houses and ‘for sale’ signs. Prices have risen too..

Don’t expect pilgrim recognition on this Camino….As for numbers: about 25 have stayed at the Novelda Albergue so far this year. Last night I was 81st 2023 peregrino.

Mean to add… I love the rival to El Corte Ingles; small things make me smile; I have time to think, to reflect and to appreciate.

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It’s hot and going to get hotter…

Made it to the Esclaves. The address is actually wrong! The HQ is at 2 Aniceto Coloma (glamorous wooden doors) but the Albergue is round the back at 7 Cervantes. I had been asked my likely arrival time (3pm) and on arrival, severely told that 5pm was the opening!

Anyway …. duly sent round the back to a made up bed with private bathroom at Euros 7.

Smart Mercadona store nearby on Rambla de la Mancha with eating area and microwave.

Do visit church/Ayunamiento with sculpture garden/tourist office with Battle museum.

Too shattered to climb up to the much restored castle!

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The last photo shows two flats which is the purported location of the Albergue…
The second photo shows the Albergue at no. 7 Cervantes.

Discuss if you must !!
 
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Hurrah! In Alpera!!

In Caudete I was given a bottle of red wine from here… so am looking for some later. A rather large cerveza first for thirst!

Actually all well. No cramps. Back fine. Legs great.

Good to leave early. My auto alarm gets me going before the phone alarm.

30 mins to get out of Almansa and away from the Autovia. Thank you Wikilocers… you save the day at dawn. I would have missed a vital turn.

The Esclaves: rooms have no name/number or keys! So do memorise..

This morning, front door LOCKED. My bedroom window needed a helicopter to access and it was ‘grilled’. Luckily I was able to undo two latches and thus open the door (and kinda close it afterwards). This always terrifies me (fire risk etc.). I have experienced PANIC in a Francès establishment years ago with the keyholder off/site and no escape possibility.

Anyway, lovely journey. Pine scented glade, peaceful, massive oak tree occasional shady spots. The bunker was rather stylish in a 30’s way.

Took the ROAD way into Alpera as I had changed into Keen sandals and wanted speed. I caught up with the motorbikers at the first hostelry on the way in on the left. The hubub was delightful!!

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It took a while to get the keys to the Albergue….

My contact (Isabel Belen on Camino de Tejido) was not answering her phone… but the bar next to the Hong Kong establishment, near the church were fab. Took me to the SECOND FLOOR old folks home diagonally opposite Ayuntamiento and hey presto! Sello/keys/7 Euros.

Very new but no sign of a kitchen. No complaints!

Called ahead to Alatoz…

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Left at 05.30 for Alatoz.

No access to kitchen or garden at Alpere accommodation… hottest night of my life! Slept on the sofa as it was the coolest room. (Should have manoeuvred a mattress down to the entrance hall.)

Took the road as I could follow the white lines and then went on the camino. Unexpected clouds and lightning!

A lovely hike… thyme and rosemary and scented ‘umbrella’ pines. The vines fade away… but it becomes a verdant landscape. Good birdsong and butterflies lead the way.

One fuente 9.5 kms onwards, signposted 200 mt on the main road; another some 5 kms before Alatoz.

The bar La Plaza duly notified Juan… a cerveza later he guided me to the fine Albergue. Clean sheets on wide beds. No kitchen but a microwave. Gym access available!!

No restaurant open on a Monday so a platos combinado.

37 degrees scheduled for tomorrow and Wednesday - perhaps two rather short days?!

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
The cairns were lovely and long established… showing the via pecuaria and/or property boundary. Photo on previous post.

First fuente at 9.5 kms. I drank the water at the second fuente - no ill effects!!

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Left at 05.30 for Alatoz.

No access to kitchen or garden at Alpere accommodation… hottest night of my life! Slept on the sofa as it was the coolest room. (Should have manoeuvred a mattress down to the entrance hall.)

Took the road as I could follow the white lines and then went on the camino. Unexpected clouds and lightning!

A lovely hike… thyme and rosemary and scented ‘umbrella’ pines. The vines fade away… but it becomes a verdant landscape. Good birdsong and butterflies lead the way.

One fuente 9.5 kms onwards, signposted 200 mt on the main road; another some 5 kms before Alatoz.

The bar La Plaza duly notified Juan… a cerveza later he guided me to the fine Albergue. Clean sheets on wide beds. No kitchen but a microwave. Gym access available!!

No restaurant open on a Monday so a platos combinado.

37 degrees scheduled for tomorrow and Wednesday - perhaps two rather short days?!

Signage now excellent!View attachment 150317View attachment 150319View attachment 150320View attachment 150321View attachment 150322View attachment 150323View attachment 150324View attachment 150325View attachment 150326

Oh, take care in that heat Filly. Yes 2 shorter days would be preferable and it is easy for you to achieve this: first to Alcalá del Júcar and then to Casas de Ibáñez, I presume?
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
So good to follow along, @filly. I may have told you that we didn’t stay in too many albergues, so I’m really enjoying your reports.

I liked Alatoz. It was one of those towns where we saw how important immigration seemed to have been in keeping the town alive (bar owned by Eastern Europeans) and how those immigrants seemed to have integrated into the community (some marriage connection between the bar and the guys who rehabbed the casa rural we stayed in). Those guys were also rehabbing another large building that contained two houses and an old mill! They’re banking on their proximity to Alcalá del Júcar as bringing them business. Hope they are successful.
 
Interesting Laurie. One of the Amigos got me out for rather too many cervesas! You would have been fascinated as he told me he was visiting friends in Jaca in October.

Apparently there is a connection between this place and the Huesca region… when the Moors were made to move further south, lands became free and they were offered to Aragonese people from the Huesca region.

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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
It took a while to get the keys to the Albergue….

My contact (Isabel Belen on Camino de Tejido) was not answering her phone… but the bar next to the Hong Kong establishment, near the church were fab. Took me to the SECOND FLOOR old folks home diagonally opposite Ayuntamiento and hey presto! Sello/keys/7 Euros.

Very new but no sign of a kitchen. No complaints!

Called ahead to Alatoz…

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Hiya Filly, this is for anybody who comes after you. I stayed there in May. I went to the Ayuntamiento and a member of staff brought me to the Albergue and the old folks home, which is in the same building. One of the nursing staff did the necessary sello, payment etc. I Bought food in a supermarket, and there are bars but the Chinese run bar opens early.There is a Chinese owned Discount shop where once you are inside it just goes on forever. Suerte, Mick.
 
Thanks Mick. OK for some but for me it was a SUNDAY! (no Ayuntamiento..)

ps I have noticed that the hours of certain town halls have been altered/shortened, probably as a result of the Covid experience and changed habits.
 
Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
So a later start today. The Albergue is very good indeed BUT one wall gives on to a squash court of some kind so there was ball noise until about 10 pm. I remember a similar occurrence at a very basic Albergue on the Levante in a Polideportivo…

Anyway: microwave, wide beds, good mattresses and pillows, air-con. Hot showers ONLY in one ladies shower! ( nb Laurie… they do vary greatly! Advantage to being alone too!! )

Thanks to all the concern and advice, I decided to make a short day to Alcalá del Júcar.

Bar La Plaza just opening as I left at 06.40 with good initial signage.

Take care as the fourth or fifth sign is back to front so one just sees a blank metal.. I headed straight rather than going right about 3 kms in. The metal signs soon finish altogether and once again I also missed a sharp left turn.

Yellow flowering bushes attracted an extraordinary amount of bees - I have never heard such a sound.

There was a difficulty at a water cistern (photo) as the path is unclear and overgrown ( hat and long trousers recommended ). You could follow the edge of the field OR stay on the road until the next agricultural way on the left. You need to take care as the painted signage is worn and there are several alternatives… Then the path is the one initially very near the roadway.

Otherwise, a flat day until the end when the hillside hike down is demanding (I have no sticks/poles). The view is spectacular!

Many hostals CLOSED so staying at one found on booking.com but rolled up to negotiate a rate of Euros 40 inc picnic breakfast. Steep but no alternative. Lovely double room with balcony (laundry), air-con, wi-fi, great bathroom.

Gave me a chance to walk up to the castle, lunch and a riverside swim!

So only about 18 kms but am aiming for Villamalea tomorrow.

Heat is staggering… and seems set to continue. Four drops of rain in thunderstorm last evening.

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Oooooo. 5.2km/hr. Enjoy the pace when you have it. (Oh to be 20 years younger.)
Beautiful pics, @filly !
Thanks VN. Always good to get feedback! Actually if someone had told me that I would be hiking bi-anually twenty years ago, I would have said ‘impossible’. Nowadays my legs remind me to get going..

The speed surprises me but it is a matter of getting the kms in before the heat surges. The ‘ola de la calor’ is now set to continue until Friday. Nighttime temperatures here are now dropping below 20 degrees.

I have had no water issues yet. An electrolyte tablet each day in the Camelbak; 700 ml soya milk and banana before I head off - the other 300 ml at the first two hour break.
 
3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Hola! From Restaurante San Augustin in Villamalea. Veggies and a chicken paella … but I AM rather early so a beer. Met the chef, duly hatted, so it seems promising and is somewhat posh! ( has air/con and music but no telly! )

Have you noticed… no more newspapers in the bars.

Anyway - some errant thoughts:

- quad bikes are aplenty. They roar along and generally delight in sending up a cloud of dust. I hear them and give a wide berth making sure the wind is in the right direction!

- any car which crosses the white central line in the roadway out of respect and concern for a hiker gets a thumbs-up and a wave from me. They know the dangers of loose stones and the effects of drag. They have probably walked..

- I nearly caused a ‘prang’ between three trail bikes the other day as I blissfully changed ‘ruts’ on an agricultural path. They had neither bells nor thought of whistling.. not even sure if they had brakes!

Anyway. Loved Alcalá del Júcar and the Hostal of the same name. Gonzalez Soriano, owner, thoughtfully gave me room 101. Juliet balcony and terrace… giving on to a panaderia/bolleteria. No alarm needed as they duly fired up early so I was up by 5 am. Off before 6 am as 36 degrees forecast.

… lunch is looking fab so far! Salad (unasked-for) duly appears, red wine and the gaseosa (that I am getting used to..) (Laurie - watch this space and hope you came here…!)

The break yesterday has worked wonders on my morale and feet. Swimming in the river was sensational as you could swim against the current. Loads of lively kids.

It IS a touristy and expensive place. The restaurant I should have eaten at was to the east, near the river at the far end of the ‘canal’ ( something like ‘El Chato’ at Euros 19.50 )

… smoked salmon platter with asparagus appears so PAUSE button …

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Gonzalez Soriano kept to his word and a picnic awaited me outside the room door in a Tesco/Kruger bolsa (joke!). Brilliant and kind - water, juice, apple, two napkins and assorted magdaleñas.
 
3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
I am aiming for 38.5 kms today… heading for recommended Hostal Los Tubos in Villarta. Fortified by lunch. Will get me ‘back on track’.

I always like to have a few days extra to allow for rest days and eventualities…

I remain amazed - a week ago I was in Alicante; two weeks ago Central London and Lewes; three weeks ago Ragusa in Sicily and a month ago touring Japan.

I had planned to hike in Japan but it wad cancelled multiple times due to added restrictions on ending lockdown. The Nagaseko trail still calls but I have found some other more religious ones.

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The Nagaseko trail still calls but I have found some other more religious ones.
Do tell. Perhaps I'l ask in a PM later when you're not busy walking. Don't want to derail this wonderful thread or distract you from where you are. Kumana Kodo? Shikoku?
 
Hot off the press… in Villarta the Hostal Los Tubos is CERRADO but have called the Ayuntamiento in my basic Spanish and secured access to the Centro Social accommodation by collecting the key from the Bar Elvar. Fun ‘n games!!

ps I was hobnailed by a lovely catholick granny on entering Villamalea who took me to her home and offered accommodation. So charmed… but recoiled somewhat when I stated that what I needed was a CERVEZA! I sat some time with her in her garage area next to her cherished immobilised red Opel Kadett and religious calendars.

Viva España. I just love it all and just thrive on it!

Dessert = casera!

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
any car which crosses the white central line in the roadway out of respect and concern for a hiker gets a thumbs-up and a wave from me.
That is my practice too, @filly. I particularly like it when the drivers put on their blinker to indicate they’re going out into the left lane!

No alarm needed as they duly fired up early so I was up by 5 am.
That was one heck of a good bakery in Alcalá del Júcar. I am not much for sweets, but there were some really delicious ones.

in Villarta the Hostal Los Tubos is CERRADO but have called the Ayuntamiento in my basic Spanish and secured access to the Centro Social accommodation by collecting the key from the Bar Elvar.
Glad to see you have a place to sleep!
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Lovely Laurie… as I leave at 14.50 … the place is packed! Shorts and all. Mainly blokes. Euros 13. For EVERYONE!!!

I may take the road as it is much shorter and I am ‘well away’ as they say.

We need to have a discussion on the square campaniles in this area. They are special.

I also got a special tour of the church in Casas Ibañez with access to the side chapel/sacristy. Fabulous ivory carved Christ from Mallorca 14/15 century.

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Hurrah! I made it by 18.30

Called Ayuntamiento to arrange accommodation…. as Monica has now moved and Los Tubos told me they were closed… (not sure whether permanently or just today..).

Any way - key at El Bar and albergue now nearby in the former Antiguo Casa del Jubilado.

Having a rather large beer in a frozen glass tankard so will report later.

A good day. I would not have enjoyed climbing out of Alcalá del Júcar on a hot day. At 6 am it was bliss. Basically head up to the top and take the stone paved road until the LAST street lamp snd turn left before the car park. Not for the faint hearted as there are vertiginous drops as one skirts the gorge. A lovely natural amphitheatre.

This is a Camino/Ruta for stamina and endurance. Also flexibility due to accommodation issues.

Also… I would highly recommend a map app. One is heading N/NW with a compass… but the issue is the brows of the hills as one does not see the towns/villages far ahead. The signage, as Kevin O*B duly points out is sparse/non-existent.

My highlight today. A SHEPHERD hollering at his flock in guttural Spanish.

More later. Ducha calls. And washing of the ropa…

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Accom is basic but free and actually on the ground floor of the Biblioteca diagonally opposite El Bar.

Worked out:

- how to turn on lights
- open up one and only single sofa bed
- found new pillow/duvet/mat/clean sheet and towel
-turned hot water on

There is a decorative showcase of many dolls, lots of chairs and nothing else. Coolish and perfect for ONE. Having a picnic in lobby; laundry in porch.

Bar opens at 7 am but I will be gone.

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Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Phew! It is hot once more… probably 30 degrees but ‘feels like 37 degrees’ as there is NO breeze.

I was struggling somewhat 6 kms from Campillo de Altobuey and having a break under a rare oak tree when… Camino Angels to the rescue! 4 x 4 of an agricultural mien STOPPED and deposited me at FALCON CREST bar/restaurant ( a Routier/truckers ). So downing beers until opening time for the Comédor at 13.30 (beer is the lowest price to date!)

Last night all well. Nearest supermarket is on Calle Niños Jesus down the side of El Bar and then round the corner for entrance. El Bar had convivial company = ear plugs!

It is HUMID and my ropas did not dry for once…

My body throbbed somewhat, though I have been hydrating madly with water (and beer..). So I am concerned about sunstroke and will break up the next stage. Some years ago when hiking within the Arctic Circle in northern Sweden, I experienced the beginnings of hypothermia. This was the opposite.

So long ago a catholic friend assured me that the Camino provides. The Ruta de la Lana certainly has!! Bless you all!

ps as Kevin says, a lovely day of vines, poppies and almond trees.

One photo shows a structure with an open door. Inside, abandoned furniture BUT reveals aptitude of builders as it has insulation composed of straw with mud, topped with tiles.

A fabulous avenue of aged almond trees, followed by an another of umbrella pines. So very smart!
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I well remember those paths and those buildings and enjoyed this stage. Its good to follow your journey - thanks for the memories.
 
I well remember those paths and those buildings and enjoyed this stage. Its good to follow your journey - thanks for the memories.
… and thank you, dear Maggie, for your inspiration on your smashing blog, all these years. I think of you daily and the last stages are totally dedicated to you! Abrazos y mas…

Revuelto de legumbres - who could ask for me (with added telly!)
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3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Hot off the press!

The contact here is Marnee on 00 34 617 792 817.

She is THE queen bee of the Polideportivo! The Ayunatamiento will simply refer you to her.

Watch this space for an update!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
So confirmed! We hit 40 degrees. Now at 20.40 it is still 33 degrees… but the wind is up, the turbines are active, clouds are spotted AND my laundry is dry in record time.

Friendly and compact town centre.

I’m hitting the road tomorrow to keep to Maggie’s target - only 27 kms this way.

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I’m hitting the road tomorrow to keep to Maggie’s target - only 27 kms this way.
Tough choice — with this heat, I’m sure the extra kms to go through Paracuellos just don’t seem worth it. Rest well!

Hope there’s a spot in Rincón de Sandra when you get to Monteagudo, but I remember reading from other forum members that the library in the square serves as a place for pilgrims to stay too. You’re the master at finding the alcalde/alcaldesa/hospitaler@, so maybe you will sleep there anyway, because I think she has the key and brings the mattress. ;)
 
3rd Edition. Vital content training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Tough choice — with this heat, I’m sure the extra kms to go through Paracuellos just don’t seem worth it. Rest well!

Hope there’s a spot in Rincón de Sandra when you get to Monteagudo, but I remember reading from other forum members that the library in the square serves as a place for pilgrims to stay too. You’re the master at finding the alcalde/alcaldesa/hospitaler@, so maybe you will sleep there anyway, because I think she has the key and brings the mattress. ;)
I think Sandra has an emergency overflow facility. I had booked a day or so ahead, but on arrival she told me that a bicycle group had phoned and taken up the entire Rincón. She put me in a flat near the town entrance - two bedrooms, lounge/dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Very comfortable for me, and she got a full house. Everyone was happy.

Filly's comments on heat make the heatwave I experienced in April/May sound benign.
 
We stayed in the overflow bit, a very nice self contained granny flat at the bottom of the hill. Sandra will probably take you to the shop, cunningly disguised as a garage, where you can buy stuff to cook, otherwise you might not have anything to eat.
 
Señor Cockerel got cracking at 04.39 so I was on the road by 06.00

nb main door of polideportivo is LOCKED so you exit by any emergency/fire door and close it afterwards.

Wonderfully cool sleeping on the tiled floor - on two weary exercise mats, a fetching 1980’s bordello-esq bedcover and two half blankets (I kid you not!) First time I have used my sleeping bag so far.

Not sure there was hot water but cool/cold suited me fine.

Kevin O*B is correct. The road is perfect, smooth, even, elevated to allow a good view over endless forests and huge fields. Space on either side for safe hiking Some adjacent agricultural tracks for variety.

Bar on roadside at entrance to Almadovar (informed that the others were closed). Will look at church soon. Square belltower and unusually a water tower (seen regularly in France).

At last some yellow Spanish broom and the scent of pineapple..

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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
As I have ‘bypassed’ Paracuellos de la Vega, could someone send me photos of the church and the ‘spectacular castle’ dominating the gorge.

Gracias in anticipation!
 
I am taking it easy now.. because I only have 11 kms to go and linch won’t be until 13.00 at the earliest in Monteaguado.

I have booked ahead to stay at Alan Sykes’s recommended establishment ‘Villa de Pedalillo’. The nice man who answered begged me to speak in English rather than my elementary Spanish… (one tried!!)

Sandra had her details on a pylon a few days ago… but the Villa has offered dinner/bed/breakfast at a good rate (no idea what that is but NO matter!)
 
Hope you don´t mind me gate-crashing your thread. This is Sandra´s overflow. Her main place was full of a biker´s club when we stayed last year in May. This is the water tower at Almodovar, and the main attraction at your next stop, Fuente. No pics of Paracuellos, I´m afraid, we bypassed it too.

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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
Hope you don´t mind me gate-crashing your thread. This is Sandra´s overflow. Her main place was full of a biker´s club when we stayed last year in May. This is the water tower at Almodovar, and the main attraction at your next stop, Fuente. No pics of Paracuellos, I´m afraid, we bypassed it too.

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Thank you! PLEASE, please gate-crash as often as possible. To know I am being followed when I am truly alone is simply wonderful. A real sense of an ethereal Community! Viva Ivar!!
 
We walked the Lana last year and saw two pilgrims, so it´s a lonely walk at times. But worth it - people were so helpful and pleased to see us. When you gat to Cuenca, you´ll stay in the albergue and meet Luis. Great guy. It´s a fascinating town and worth a couple of days stay. Fire away if you have any questions. By the way, the detour via Siguenza is definitely a good idea.
 
Holoholo automatically captures your footpaths, places, photos, and journals.
Hola from Monteagudo de las Salinas.

Charmant.

4 worthies on roadside stools gleefully asserted that the bar/restaurant was closed and had no idea if/when it might be open.

Same story for the only tienda BUT I was assured that ‘timbre’ would ensure open Sesamé. It worked. Mariasol who runs it is an estrella of great price.

Same for Sandra who just happened to be walking in the street, with bejewelled espadrilles. (Joaquin was at a Valencia hospital visit so accommodation potentially precarious). Sandra had to get her car to take me to the Rincon - about 1 minute ride!!

Chez Sandra is perfect. Clean, spacious, terraced, view - a home from home. Wi-fi, telly, masses of dvd’s and cd’s. Peaceful. I can make a cuppa and have some fried eggs.

Laundered, boots refreshed on a delicate cycle and sun-dried. Wot’s not to like?

Feel like a different person due to cloudy start, cool even a COLD start, with multi-directional but mainly from the north fresh winds.

Took the road. The last 11 kms is 6 kms on the old N320 with less space and more windy; then 5 kms on an even smaller road with even less space at the edge. It ends with a great downhill straight run, a surprise vista, and a left turn onto a lane leading to the village.

Great Sydney Blue Mountain reminiscent views of distant wooded mountains.

Nothing cooking here - but no matter as I have access to a good kitchen. (fresh veggies/fruit scarce..).

Rosario lined up for the Albergue in Fuentes tomorrow.

One photo shows road repair gang blow-drying the holes, almost showering me with dust and gravel!!

Another shows a view backwards to Campillo de Altobuey - the turbines are whirring and red warning lights gleam.

No more vines or almond trees today.



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note from the mods -- I deleted a picture showing a forum member's phone number.
 

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Do tell. Perhaps I'l ask in a PM later when you're not busy walking. Don't want to derail this wonderful thread or distract you from where you are. Kumana Kodo? Shikoku?

I have not had a chance to work on this but there are others to Nagasenko. Do get in touch direct - I would gladly team up!

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BUT I was assured that ‘timbre’ would ensure open Sesamé. It worked. Mariasol who runs it is an estrella of great price.
Sandra told us Marisol is her mother in law, so they have a deal that she will always open up for pilgrims no matter what the hour if she is at home. Such great treatment in Monteagudo! 😁

Monteagudo was a very special place for me, because it was where @C clearly walked in from the Requena, and the two of us spent the next two weeks together.

I saw the signs in Fuentes for the Titanosaurio and walked out to see what it was after lunch. Spoiler alert - it is a big plastic-like model of a dinosaur. I was hoping for footprints like the ones we later saw outside Covarrubias!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Lovely Laurie! Please note… the photo of Sandra is of her showing me a photo of you with a group ( of cyclists? ).

I went to Mariasol BEFORE I encountered Sandra. Mariasol was beyond kind and helpful.

(There is village politics in operation.. plus ca change!)
 
Holoholo automatically captures your footpaths, places, photos, and journals.
You are a one, as they say in the UK. I can now head off to bed chuckling… a short day tomorrow! Abrazos!!
 
… and I have your phone number (up close and personal!!).

Anyway here is photo of road repair gang.

The Ermita doorway in Almadovar is to die for! and the restaurant is CLOSED!

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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I am sorry to report that I DO NOT RECOMMEND STAYING CHEZ SANDRA AT ANY PRICE.

At 23.30 I was rudely disturbed by a motorbiker coming in through the back entrance (which I had not locked) and claiming he was sleeping in another bedroom. This is outrageous. I am really upset and deeply disturbed… MariaSol appeared in the background… I have no idea of the logistics but it is totally unacceptable!! I feel totally violated.. and have to hike tomorrow.

My least pleasant ever experience on any Camino.
 
I am sorry to report that I DO NOT RECOMMEND STAYING CHEZ SANDRA AT ANY PRICE.

At 23.30 I was rudely disturbed by a motorbiker coming in through the back entrance (which I had not locked) and claiming he was sleeping in another bedroom. This is outrageous. I am really upset and deeply disturbed… MariaSol appeared in the background… I have no idea of the logistics but it is totally unacceptable!! I feel totally violated.. and have to hike tomorrow.

My least pleasant ever experience on any Camino.
Not a nice thing to have happen. Did you ask Sandra for an explanation? Just possible it was an innocent mistake but still not something to just brush off.

In Fuente the ´albergue´ is, or was, being used by the decorators doing up the lovely little chapel that the albergue is attached to as a storeroom. We shared the tiny two bunk room with various items of equipment and a vast quantity of paint. But the hot shower works. The lady in the ayuntamiento who gave us the key was lovely and kind. You should stock up in Fuente - it has several shops, as there is not much on the way next day. I would think about continuing along the road for the final stretch into Cuenca rather than following the arrows over the disused railway line. The route seems designed for a jolly good walk rather than reaching a destination and ends up in wasteland where the arrows disappear. Cuenca is really worth spending time in and Luis will almost certainly let you stay two nights as well as regaling you with a wealth of info. Good luck.
 
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Not a nice thing to have happen. Did you ask Sandra for an explanation? Just possible it was an innocent mistake but still not something to just brush off.

In Fuente the ´albergue´ is, or was, being used by the decorators doing up the lovely little chapel that the albergue is attached to as a storeroom. We shared the tiny two bunk room with various items of equipment and a vast quantity of paint. But the hot shower works. The lady in the ayuntamiento who gave us the key was lovely and kind. You should stock up in Fuente - it has several shops, as there is not much on the way next day. I would think about continuing along the road for the final stretch into Cuenca rather than following the arrows over the disused railway line. The route seems designed for a jolly good walk rather than reaching a destination and ends up in wasteland where the arrows disappear. Cuenca is really worth spending time in and Luis will almost certainly let you stay two nights as well as regaling you with a wealth of info. Good luck.
Thank you for your input. Sandra was obviously having her beauty sleep! You are correct - she should have been the one to call out my name in reassurance..

They were ultimately three hirsute, black leather sheathed bikers, obviously on a nearly ‘Midnight Cowboy’ jolly… !!

Just not fair and no apology from ANYONE. Probably too shocked to see me flailing in my ‘birthday suit’ sans specs!!

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Made it here by 11.30 A good day -peaceful, green, shaded. No roadway. The last section is somewhat slow because the village is hidden in a valley. Lively little place: livelier than one would imagine.

nb 90 minutes on the way one encounters the first GATE with warning signs and camera (no visible power source…) The gate is bolted and there is some wire wrapped round the posts. Soon sorted… There are fresh yellow arrows so onwards.

Three hours approx into the walk, there is a second gate (you will have passed a house and stables) and this has a loose chain WITH PADLOCK and bolt. I should have tried to see if there was enough space to pass through without backpack… instead I followed the small curtain wall and put my backpack on this, and carefully climbed the fence near the end pole, using the tightening coils as foot supports. A little while further on is the last gate, just bolted but needs a good lift to rebolt afterwards.

Phew….

4 hours in, take care as there is a ‘switchback’ to the right.

Again, lovely poppies (as a crop I presume), thistles, euphorbia, butterflies and great distant views towards the end.

Just country paths all the way, faint at times, rutted at others. The FRESH yellow arrows ate reassuring that one is on the right (and only) path. It is the usual dispute story.

The Albergue is on the main road in, on the right - it is part of the charming Ermita. Door on right in porch area. Very ‘primitivo’ but power, light, loo with seat, paper and perfume spray (!), basic shower, basin (with plug), laundry line in porch, even a hand towel. Clean bedding for questionable mattresses…

Not for the fainthearted!

Bucket and mop and cleaning profucts so I gave the floors a once over ‘limpio’ and they smell ever so España now.

Rosario (646 61 22 89) did not respond. Loz Cazadores bar/restaurant oppositecould not locate their key, but Pepe duly opened up and left with keys. Well, I don’t have much to lose.

Road noise and…. naybe nightime visitors? Hey - there is a bolt.

Tomorrow Cuenca for a two day stay.



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Not a nice thing to have happen. Did you ask Sandra for an explanation? Just possible it was an innocent mistake but still not something to just brush off.

In Fuente the ´albergue´ is, or was, being used by the decorators doing up the lovely little chapel that the albergue is attached to as a storeroom. We shared the tiny two bunk room with various items of equipment and a vast quantity of paint. But the hot shower works. The lady in the ayuntamiento who gave us the key was lovely and kind. You should stock up in Fuente - it has several shops, as there is not much on the way next day. I would think about continuing along the road for the final stretch into Cuenca rather than following the arrows over the disused railway line. The route seems designed for a jolly good walk rather than reaching a destination and ends up in wasteland where the arrows disappear. Cuenca is really worth spending time in and Luis will almost certainly let you stay two nights as well as regaling you with a wealth of info. Good luck.
Bless Maggie! Two nights in an apartment - SOLO. Will feed at the Parador and sim to get access to the pool!

(No sign of la Sandra!)
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Good lunch at Euros 12.50 with lively local crowd. Local ‘supermarket’ closed at 14.00 but allowed me in on sanitised floors some time later.

We have all been moved to el bar where a very loud game with seeds is progressing loudly.

Will aim uphill for church and thereafter to swimming!
 
I am sorry to report that I DO NOT RECOMMEND STAYING CHEZ SANDRA AT ANY PRICE.

At 23.30 I was rudely disturbed by a motorbiker coming in through the back entrance (which I had not locked) and claiming he was sleeping in another bedroom. This is outrageous. I am really upset and deeply disturbed… MariaSol appeared in the background… I have no idea of the logistics but it is totally unacceptable!! I feel totally violated.. and have to hike tomorrow.

My least pleasant ever experience on any Camino.
Wow, filly, that was not a good situation. I hope you managed to get back to sleep!

Since I know you are something of a foodie, I will recommend Restaurante Raff San Pedro in Cuenca. Its tasting menú is in the 50s. It is on the little side street (pedestrian only) paralleling the street that goes up from the cathedral to the castle. And there is also the Piola Gastrobar, which is closer to the cathedral.
 
Thanks Laurie… will check that they are open Sunday/Monday…but I can get my skates on for tomorrow lunch.

Attached photo of game with seeds for counters!

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Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
Filly, it just occurred to me that you'll arrive in Cuenca on a Sunday. That means the tirolina (zip line) will be operating. I was so disappointed that we were there during the week, because I had told myself that I would be brave and give it a try.


It goes across the gorge, leaving from the high point beyond the castle and after the parking lot. The Brit we were walking with said he had been on one in the UK that was much more expensive and didn't look nearly as dramatic as this one. The price is somewhere in the low to mid 20 range.

Not sure how tirolina and pilgrimage go together in the same sentence, but it did seem like it would be a lot of fun!
 
Just into Cuenca having had a lie-in for once. Set off at 06.43 so not bad…

As Dick Bird states, a lovely country walk, with a desvio (deviation) well-marked but seems to have been going for a while. A fuente three hours in and then another in the first hamlet.

Woodland bird song, swifts/house martins aplenty, some thyme scent and the first hollyhocks!

I tried the road way in BUT take my word, JUST DON’T! Switching from the N to CM road involved a 1 km loop, then unforgiving traffic and not a nice entry into Cuenca. Pleased to have sussed it out though. If you do insist on doing it… do not go under overpass but veer right and there should be a path to take you lower down along the CM which you can access later.

Discovery of the day: Ronald Gym - does one go before or after a BigMac and shake or after?!? LOL

Saw sheep and two lambs; a nice old unadulterated Renault; can someone clarify what the shed would have been used for.

Gracias a todos!
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… Cuenca gets TOP marks. A true delight and a fitting break! After attending mass at the glorious San Esteban Protomartir church, I was having a cerveza on Calle de Las Torres when a gentleman approached me … Andrès, one of the worthies who organises the Albergue. Minutes later Luis appears. He is the majordomo and the kindest, sweetest force to be reckoned with.

I am taken to admire said Albergue - delightful indeed. I decide to stay an extra night… I have the time; I am nearly halfway and there is so much to see snd do. PLUS the museums I wish to see are closed on a Monday so it makes sense ti stay over.

The last pilgrim was in mid-June…

Luis resolved the query of the agricultural shed. Used previously to dry tree pulp for the local papermill. I had seen reference to the latter in the excellent 2019 ring-bound Spanish Amigo guide.

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Holoholo automatically captures your footpaths, places, photos, and journals.
Of course. Glad you asked. I suddenly understood CM the other day myself!

N - national roadways

CM - Castilla-La Mancha provincial roadway numbering

So I was switching, as Dick Bird suggested, from the N - 320 to the CM - 220.

Photos show loop for switching.

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Hello my lovelies!

Here in Cuenca, I almost weep with emotion. It is s stunning place! Worth doing the Lana for, alone. The Cathedral is quite breathtaking! I was allowed to pray in the chapel of Santiago, duly ‘selloed’ and given free entry. Fabulous ironwork/tombs/altarpieces/organ/in situ tapestries/cloister/bosses and liernes/I could go on and on… The REAL flowers here and in St Peter’s due to Semana Santa festival with cortèges within the cathedral/church. Take your time and head up into the steeples.

The whole place is interesting, clean and not Disneyfied. I arrived on a Sunday pm .. I am assured weekdays are quiet.

Thanks to peregrina2000 I ate royally at Raffs San Pedro last night, Michelin rated and duly gently sated. Cuenca is Spain’s gastronomic capital this year.

Tomorrow museums and Cuenca beach!

ps this is a hidden secret as are BAEZA and UBEDA and CAZORLA.

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Train for your next Camino on California's Santa Catalina Island March 16-19
is this the way we walked into Cuenca?
Since I have no memory of any route detail, I have just looked at my track. There is a little backtracking in order to cross the N-420, but we didn't go anywhere near the CM-220. @filly must have walked along the N-420 instead of crossing over.
 

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So, Filly, looking at @C clearly’s tracks, are we right in thinking that you turned left on the N-420, stayed on it till the CM-220, and took the CM-220 into Cuenca? Any reason why? The camino might be a little longer, but it is all off-road till you get to the outskirts of Cuenca, and descend past the dinnosaur museum.
 
Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
… my dears … if you look at what Dick Bird wrote, I followed his exhortation and did not cross the main road but followed it and then switched NW on the CM. Bad move but worth doing for future ‘Lana’s’.

The railway track might have been fun too!
 
BTW Raff’s was stunning! Rather quiet; the owner in attendance; the food sublime and perfect petite portions… served unhurried but in succession. I had earned it - go on you others and just treat yourself. I reckon the cost in London would be x 4!

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Went back for late lunch to Posada de San Julian on Calle de las Torres. This is home cooking. No McCain’s patatas bravas etc. Beyond fair. Weekdays Euros 12 for three courses, jug of wine and gaseosa. Euros 13 at weekends. Good, honest, nourishing and committed catering fare. Second time and I’ll be back tomorrow for my last time.

My feet have welcomed the break. I am staying in the Barrio Tiradores - all stairs so I am keeping up the cardio!

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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
… on another track.

A ‘budding’ friendship has resulted in my being castigated for ostensibly longing for the peace and quiet and thoughtfulness and mindfulness of the Camino whilst reaching out and communicating with Ivar’s web of like-minded souls. I was really shocked and put out as you lot, out there, never met, but ‘known’ and trusted ARE my support network who keep me (and others) going when one is parched/lost/in pain/foodless and blindly searching.

My friends and family can’t understand the urge to hike, and specifically in Spain and on Caminos and always NW to the field of stars.

Do I give this ‘friend’ the benefit of the doubt or is it toast? Your opinion matters to ME.

Abrazos…
 
I am still a novice at posting things so here is the full menu. I am so grateful to peregrina2000 for sending me here (and there.. over the years - a true and valued ‘guardian angel’.

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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
… on another track.

A ‘budding’ friendship has resulted in my being castigated for ostensibly longing for the peace and quiet and thoughtfulness and mindfulness of the Camino whilst reaching out and communicating with Ivar’s web of like-minded souls. I was really shocked and put out as you lot, out there, never met, but ‘known’ and trusted ARE my support network who keep me (and others) going when one is parched/lost/in pain/foodless and blindly searching.

My friends and family can’t understand the urge to hike, and specifically in Spain and on Caminos and always NW to the field of stars.

Do I give this ‘friend’ the benefit of the doubt or is it toast? Your opinion matters to ME.

Abrazos…

UM!

Maybe a second chance. A quick one.

Because, life just too short to hangout with negativity and disdain for too long.

Buen camino.
 

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