On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 6.0

[mspath]

Villatuerta
private albergue

photos taken October 20, 2011



This rough pebble floored space is the entrance hall of the Casa Magica, a 300 years old farmhouse in Villatuerta on the CF. In the past grapes for vino tinto were stamped/crushed on that floor.



A tiny nook was very cosy for sleeping during autumn 2011. The only other pilgrim, a German woman, and I each had one within the larger dorm. How nice it was to have a "room" of one's own, even if miniscule!
...
I wonder if today the Casa is still as magical as it was 10 years ago?

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Villatuerta
private albergue

photos taken October 20, 2011

View attachment 108783

This rough pebble floored space is the entrance hall of the Casa Magica, a 300 years old farmhouse in Villatuerta on the CF. In the past grapes for vino tinto were stamped/crushed on that floor.

View attachment 108784

A tiny nook was very cosy for sleeping during autumn 2011. The only other pilgrim, a German woman, and I each had one within the larger dorm. How nice it was to have a "room" of one's own, even if miniscule!
...
I wonder if today the Casa is still as magical as it was 10 years ago?

Almost as nice as a real bed rather than a bunk bed.

 

[Former member 49149]

Villatuerta
private albergue

photos taken October 20, 2011

View attachment 108783

This rough pebble floored space is the entrance hall of the Casa Magica, a 300 years old farmhouse in Villatuerta on the CF. In the past grapes for vino tinto were stamped/crushed on that floor.

View attachment 108784

A tiny nook was very cosy for sleeping during autumn 2011. The only other pilgrim, a German woman, and I each had one within the larger dorm. How nice it was to have a "room" of one's own, even if miniscule!
...
I wonder if today the Casa is still as magical as it was 10 years ago?

I can only speak about how it was two years ago. There were four or five the night I stayed there. A lovely couple had taken over from previous owners. I understand that they are temporarily closed. Glad I asked for the recipe for the dessert!

 

[dick bird]

Now Day of Asturias in the rest of the world so...

Santa Maria del Naranco consecrated 848
just a few km off the Primitivo and a few meters from San Miguel, construction began as a palace but changed to a church, once it was consecrated the smaller church (originally Santa Maria) was changed to San Miguel...or so I've been led to believe.

View attachment 108750View attachment 108751

Oviedo was a change-over city as I moved between my patchwork of Caminos, in addition to its place on the Primitivo, so I stayed here three times, twice with a layover day and once with half a day...it felt like coming home each time I returned...but I will move on now

Similar vintage, 893, the church of San Salvador, next to the monastery of St Mary (founded 1200) in Valdedios, also on the Primitivo. The church was built by Alfonso lll, who liked the spot so much he chose it as his place of exile after being kicked out by his sons (there's gratitude for you). Apparently, pilgrims may have been housed in one of the side chapels. Nowadays there is a much more comfortable albergue in the monastery. It got ever so slightly creepy after everyone had left (including the guide/hospitalera), until another pilgrim came striding out of the fast fading twilight, which is strange because for all we knew, he could have been a mad axe-murderer. As it happened, it was Luis, a retired French engineer, and excellent good company.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Similar vintage, 893, the church of San Salvador, next to the monastery of St Mary (founded 1200) in Valdedios, also on the Primitivo. The church was built by Alfonso lll, who liked the spot so much he chose it as his place of exile after being kicked out by his sons (there's gratitude for you). Apparently, pilgrims may have been housed in one of the side chapels. Nowadays there is a much more comfortable albergue in the monastery. It got ever so slightly creepy after everyone had left (including the guide/hospitalera), until another pilgrim came striding out of the fast fading twilight, which is strange because for all we knew, he could have been a mad axe-murderer. As it happened, it was Luis, a retired French engineer, and excellent good company.
View attachment 108788

I stayed two nights in a room in the monastery; no pilgrims were at the alburgue. The housekeeper put the fear of God in me about losing my key, I tied it around my neck while she was lecturing me (seen in this proof-of-life picture I posted to my blog). It was just me on one side of the place, the monks on the other. Very much like the day I spent at Ziortza except it wasn't raining in Valdedios. I'll have to try to find pictures from inside the monasteries to post later.

 

[Former member 49149]

Onward, after the Santuario. in an earlier photo of a washing place, we had come across a lady dressed in black, washing away, and singing what sounded like hymns as she scrubbed...

 

[SabsP]

Rio Najerilla in Najera. CF 2011.

 

[dick bird]

I stayed two nights in a room in the monastery; no pilgrims were at the alburgue. The housekeeper put the fear of God in me about losing my key, I tied it around my neck while she was lecturing me (seen in this proof-of-life picture I posted to my blog). It was just me on one side of the place, the monks on the other. Very much like the day I spent at Ziortza except it wasn't raining in Valdedios. I'll have to try to find pictures from inside the monasteries to post later.
View attachment 108792

When did you stay there? when we were there in 2018, I don't think there were any monks left. It is a stunning building, parts of it restored and cared for but parts of it caving in. Spain really does have an embarrassment of riches in terms of its heritage, so many wonderful buildings but they cost so much money to look after - as I know having worked for a short while in building conservation. I was pleased that Spanish people value it enough to come and visit it - there are guided tours all day - but I fear for its survival. It also has a chequered history. I believe it was a hospital during the Civil War and after that a mental hospital. This is looking down on it as we walked out of the valley next morning.

 

[Phoenix]

When I first saw this view, I had no idea what awaited me in Hornillos del Camino:
A rowdy dinner with two Germans, two Swedes, and a young American at an Irish pub in rural northern Spain.

When I've shared this story with non-pilgrims, they think I'm setting up a joke...

CF, Sept 2018

 

[Anne&Pat]

We took the inland mountain route between Soto de Luina and Cadavedo, which had some amazing views both inland and to the sea. It was forecast to start raining about 13,00hrs and it did about 15 minutes before we took this photo looking back along the path we had just come. It continued to rain all the way to Cadavedo. May, 2018.

 

[kohara]

Walking from Hospital de Bruma to Sigueiro, penultimate day on the Ingles in late July just gone. At roughly the halfway point of this quite long stage, at the village of A Calle, there is a cafe that markets itself as the last cafe till Sigueiro. I had obviously pencilled this in as the lunch stop for the day.
Just before this village i got completely played by these two doggies. I couldnt understand why the first had run over to the fence and was staring right at me with his cute eyes. I had no food or so i thought, i scrummaged for a bit of biscuit in my backpack but then realised i had half a jamon y queso bocadillo from earlier that morning this they had obviously had smelt a mile off. They were joined by their brother or sister and i was sold at this stage.

As i was just about to give the bocadillo to the two dogs, the couple of Madrid who i had been walking on and off with were up ahead and waving their arms and shouted something to the effect of No cafe. I thought they meant no cafe after this village so completely ignored them and gave it all to the doggies which they devoured. Turns out the cafe was closed and no food stops or water fountains till Sigueiro!

I didnt catch up with the Madrilenos so it was 15km on an empty stomach with 250 mls of water in the middle of summer! As they say the camino provides, a local woman did give me some water. I was hungry but at least those two dogs were well happy.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

View attachment 108826

When I first saw this view, I had no idea what awaited me in Hornillos del Camino:
A rowdy dinner with two Germans, two Swedes, and a young American at an Irish pub in rural northern Spain.

When I've shared this story with non-pilgrims, they think I'm setting up a joke...

CF, Sept 2018

Well it evokes a sense of “wonder what’s up ahead” so you truly captured the day with a photo!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

When did you stay there? when we were there in 2018, I don't think there were any monks left. It is

im Trying to picture us at prayer for an exact answer, I think perhaps 8 or 10 left in 2012 and they were getting ready to leave—so sad. Another order was supposed to take over but I think I read they didn’t last and maybe some talk of a parador.

 

[VNwalking]

When I first saw this view, I had no idea what awaited me

This is so true, every moment on every camino.
And sometimes you see something that makes the mind stop completely for a moment, unable to understand what it's seeing.
Just..."Huh?"
Like this olive tree driving down a road in Rioja.
Where was it going, and why?

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Where was it going, and why?

to a place it would be cherished, of course! they've carefully secured it for travel, and it had significant cost and effort to dig up from its native ground and transport far away. I think i see it waving goodbye

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

19 June, somewhere between Olveiroa (where I finally found coffee) and Finisterre

the rest of my pictures that day are of stray (? wild) horses, a pilgrim with donkey (donkigrino?), and water so I'm not really sure where this is but it's after coffee and that was Olveiroa ...grumble grumble should have asked them to make me coffee in A Picota, they probably would have...guess only myself to blame

 

[Anik2001]

Early morning in Navarrete. So calm and beautiful. The way towards Azofra, going through Najera and its cliffs, was a nice walk and the fountain at Azofra’s albergue, a relief for the tired feet.

 

[FourSeasons]

CF August 14, 2019 on the way to Pedrouzo. These guys really needed some affection sweet, sweet puppies.

 

[Theatregal]

Sketching in Santiago

 

[mspath]

Leon
plaza de San Marcos

photo take February 14, 2008



Sitting with a new camino friend is a timeless pleasure.

 

[Anne&Pat]

Luarca, note the impressive railway viaduct which sweeps around the back of the town. May, 2018.

 

[VNwalking]

I liked this statue a lot at first glance already, but's the bunny who really slayed me.
In front of the Church of San Francisco, Santiago.

 

[SabsP]

Crucero de Santo Toribio
.
This is what I wrote in 2017 about this place.

"Meeting the priest at the Crucero Santo Torribio just before San Justo de la Vega. He was a pensioned missionary and he studied years in my country so he insisted in talking French with me. He hugged me and asked me to return the hug to San Tiago. "

I did not make it to Santiago that year due to a knee injury but I took his intention with me anyway.

 

[Former member 49149]

Almost there!

 

[dick bird]

im Trying to picture us at prayer for an exact answer, I think perhaps 8 or 10 left in 2012 and they were getting ready to leave—so sad. Another order was supposed to take over but I think I read they didn’t last and maybe some talk of a parador.

It's not a parador yet. To be fair to the Spanish authorities, they do seem to be putting money in to restore or at least conserve the fabric, and the cloister and church are in good condition, and there is a steady stream of visitors for the guided tour - the guide is also the hospitalera - but who knows.

 

[dick bird]

Sept 9 2018 and Sept 10. In the cloisters of Segovia Cathedral and looking back at the city next morning. We spent a couple of days in the city to refresh and wait for a friend to join us. A gracious little town, like a lot of Spanish towns, it kind of waits till the coach tours have gone before it turns back into itself. It was for a while the home of Antonio Machado. If you have read the poem 'Caminante, no hay camino', he wrote it and his house is a little museum in his honour.

 

[VNwalking]

his house is a little museum in his honour.

Oh! This is a lovely thing to file away for when I walk the Madrid.

A gracious little town, like a lot of Spanish towns, it kind of waits till the coach tours have gone before it turns back into itself

You have a lovely way with words, @dick bird.
Beautiful.

 

[dick bird]

Oh! This is a lovely thing to file away for when I walk the Madrid.

OK, so here is a little teaser, this is his toilet.

 

[VNwalking]

OK, so here is a little teaser, this is his toilet.

Well, who hasn't written poetry on the throne?

 

[Former member 49149]

OK, so here is a little teaser, this is his toilet.

View attachment 108932

"Thank you for sharing that!" Not!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

it's called a "turntable"...played music on things called "records"

 

[Chenahusky]

View attachment 108936
it's called a "turntable"...played music on things called "records"

I thought it was to ripen the Bananas more evenly as it turned.

 

[Chenahusky]

The church of St Andrew in Siguero, on the Camino Ingles. Reliable mass times, get there early. When I have been there, on a Sunday, they were standing outside as well. Open at other times and a sello too.

 

[FourSeasons]

CF September 22, 2013 day 20, flying through Leon, too crowded for me. I stopped to say hello to a tired pilgrim before I pressed on to Virgin del Camino. Where I took my first and only rest day on day 21, my first Camino.

 

[Anik2001]

A little shade, in the back of the church in Grañon. A nice place to cool down with the other pilgrims after shower was taken laundry was done.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I thought it was to ripen the Bananas more evenly as it turned.

In it’s repurposed mode although I suspect it was to catch pilgrims’ attention so they stop in and buy something

 

[mspath]

Sunrise west of Hontanas



May a new sunrise give us courage
to continue hopefully towards a better future.

Might this be so especially now when all who lived through September 11, 2001, wherever in the world we might have been, recall the events of that horrific American day
exacty 20 years ago.

...Pax

 

[Anne&Pat]

Two today. Interesting busy commercial port in Navia with fishing and ship building. June, 2018.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

We've all taken the monument's picture, and may have paused as directed to pray the Salve Regina



Never Forget

 

[SabsP]

Somewhere in O Cebreiro. CF 2011.
Something I only seem to notice in Spain and when walking : the number after the comma... Not 23 till Triacastela but only 22.5!
Most of us pilgrims understand the importance of that last k. before you reach the destination of the day ( well , except for some of the speedmachines here who never get tired! ).

 

[FourSeasons]

CF October 2013 a few k’s from Arzua my Camino rainbow appeared. The symbol of a promise. As we remember September 11, 2001 let’s keep the promise alive. A promise of hope and love and unity. God Bless America. ‍ some seem offended that I just wrote God Bless America but of course God Bless us, Everyone. Unity, right? Isn’t that rainbow spectacular?

 

[VNwalking]

Bless us all - each and every one - regardless of who we are and where we live.
It is not easy, this business of life.

 

[kohara]

Another pic of the wonderful San Martin Pinario monastery in Santiago, was once the 2nd largest in all of Spain after El Escorial.

 

[FourSeasons]

Bless us all - each and every one - regardless of who we are and where we live.
It is not easy, this business of life.
View attachment 108975

Of course, God Bless you too and Everyone. Please remember this day those lost in the horrific terrorist attack on American soil 20 years ago. beautiful photo.

 

[Former member 49149]

We got here.

 

[mspath]

west of Azofra

photo taken February 19, 2007



West of Azofra on the CF I pondered how many countless pilgrims had passed by this post, known as a Rollo, which marks an ancient territorial boundary. Conscious that I was treading where ‘their feet had trod’ throughout time it was doubly surprising when later in the morning after the camino climbed up to a recent golf course at Cirueña it further crossed a new but vacant upmarket housing estate. Tempora mutantur!

 

[dick bird]

Another pic of the wonderful San Martin Pinario monastery in Santiago, was once the 2nd largest in all of Spain after El Escorial.

View attachment 109001

Plus you get the best views in Santiago.

 

[dick bird]

One for yesterday, one for today, and one for luck. Añe was first stop after Segovia. A dying village, no bar and no shop and all the inhabitants we saw, elderly. They do their best to keep the albergue going, you pick up the key from a lady who lives at the village entrance and (probably) drop it off at the wrong place next day (i.e. by following the instructions on the door rather than the complicated arrangement described by the old lady who lives at the village entrance). The sunset was spectacular and I thought the electricity pylon majestic. Next day, at Nava de Ordunte, the very elegant ladies in the ayuntamiento solemnly promised that José would be at the corner of the park at 1.30 promptly to open up the referee's changing room, otherwise known as the albergue de pelegrinos. And lo and behold, there he was, smiling broadly, promptly at 1.30. The albergue really is in the referee's changing room. That's it. One of the joys of the Madrid was the endlessly varied arrangements for picking up the key to the albergue. I couldn't resist the mural.

 

[Anne&Pat]

Tapia de Casariego. We decided to take this unusually flat but pleasant coastal option and stayed a night here before reaching Ribadeo and Galicia the next day. June, 2018.

 

[dick bird]

Tapia de Casariego. We decided to take this unusually flat but pleasant coastal option and stayed a night here before reaching Ribadeo and Galicia the next day. May, 2018.
View attachment 109036

We did that too, following a GR path (or Spanish equivalent). A much pleasanter walk and I don't know why more people don't do it (but kind of glad they don't). Not sure about the 'flat' part' though, maybe I'm thinking of another bit. After farewelling a friend in Ribadeo, we doubled back and picked up the Ruta Historica - highly recommended.

 

[SabsP]

We did that too, following a GR path (or Spanish equivalent). A much pleasanter walk and I don't know why more people don't do it (but kind of glad they don't). Not sure about the 'flat' part' though, maybe I'm thinking of another bit. After farewelling a friend in Ribadeo, we doubled back and picked up the Ruta Historica - highly recommended.

Then most probably it was the GR 204 aka E9.

Blogger

Free weblog publishing tool from Google, for sharing text, photos and video.

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[SabsP]

Cobblestones.CP 2015.

 

[VNwalking]

This is a few towns before you get to @mspath 's boundary marker - outside of Ventosa. In case there were any doubt about the correct way to go.

 

[dick bird]

Then most probably it was the GR 204 aka E9.

Blogger

Free weblog publishing tool from Google, for sharing text, photos and video.

visitarasturias.blogspot.com

Looks like the one. They could re-route the camino that way but I don't think local businesses would appreciate that. Can't say I blame them. We've all got to make a living.

 

[mspath]

This is a few towns before you get to @mspath 's boundary marker - outside of Ventosa. In case there were any doubt about the correct way to go.
View attachment 109047

VN,
Indeed.
The sequence is;
1.this/your shot leaving/ ie.west of Ventosa.
( Nagera )
( Azofra )
2. leaving/ ie. west of Azofra my shot of the boundary marker #746 above.

One problem in the past was the lack of places to sit along this stretch ie few handy rocks, logs, etc.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

This is a few towns before you get to @mspath 's boundary marker - outside of Ventosa. In case there were any doubt about the correct way to go.
View attachment 109047

I often wondered when I saw three or four arrows next to each other if it was bc pilgrims kept complaining they didn’t see the turn (amigo de Camino muttering as he put up two more “well they won’t miss these”) or if wayward pilgrims irritated the neighbors whose crops were trampled and the neighbors put up the extra ones.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

CF October 2013 a few k’s from Arzua my Camino rainbow appeared. The symbol of a promise. As we remember September 11, 2001 let’s keep the promise alive. A promise of hope and love and unity. God Bless America. ‍ some seem offended that I just wrote God Bless America but of course God Bless us, Everyone. Unity, right? Isn’t that rainbow spectacular?
View attachment 108972

I’m hope no one is offended but when we in the US say “never forget” it means never forget sacrifice for others, heroism, and above all love. Things important to everyone everywhere but exemplified in so many moments that day, and that we should carry those ideals forward because the heroes that died that day can't. This says it better than I ever could:

The Twentieth Anniversary of 9/11: Never Forget

At pivotal moments, Americans have often found their collective voice in a short phrase. For the founders of the United States in 1776, the rallying cry was “Liberty or Death.”

www.adventisthealthcare.com

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

When last seen, Sparrow was congratulating herself on getting out of Lugo before Corpus Christi, wisely celebrating in an isolated albergue in the small town of San Ramon...but wait, what's this going on in Melide...wow these flower carpets look good for the day after...
....
uh oh, wait, why are they still building them?? Just how long do holidays last around here (apparently all week or at least a long weekend)

Sparrow consults map... continued tomorrow....

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Looks like the one. They could re-route the camino that way but I don't think local businesses would appreciate that. Can't say I blame them. We've all got to make a living.

I’ve been encouraging my small town on the Camino Real (we are technically the end of one stage) to partner with those north and south of us to be pilgrim-friendly and advertise walking this Camino. Of course unless seeking food the walk on El Camino here is not pleasant: pavement with little shade and brutal summers. We would be the stage complained about by everyone. I was looking at trail maps, wondering if we could route walkers onto them (dirt trails shaded by century old oaks) when I realized IF I got city buy-in they’d not be happy if I then asked them to route everyone away from the business strip.

 

[Theatregal]

Invierno. Standing on the little balcony of my room at Complejo Rural Agoga in Las Medulas, looking at the path I was about to take for some wonderful hours of exploration. A memorable day in June 2019.

 

[Former member 49149]

 

[Anne&Pat]

We did that too, following a GR path (or Spanish equivalent). A much pleasanter walk and I don't know why more people don't do it (but kind of glad they don't). Not sure about the 'flat' part' though, maybe I'm thinking of another bit. After farewelling a friend in Ribadeo, we doubled back and picked up the Ruta Historica - highly recommended.

Then most probably it was the GR 204 aka E9.

Blogger

Free weblog publishing tool from Google, for sharing text, photos and video.

visitarasturias.blogspot.com

Thanks Dick and Sabine.
Not sure if we followed any GR or not but we did follow the alternate Camino which is also on one of Wise Pilgrims maps, which you can see below. The route we took is in blue.

 

[mspath]

Cirauqui
Iglesia San Roman
detail

photo taken October 23, 2013



Waving as I passed by

During past years when I was able although I usually walked alone I hardly ever felt lonely. Much of each day was spent in a chaotic mix of personal thanksgiving, worry over the weather or my gut, projected mental renovation/restoration of a multitude of wayside structures since I am an architectural historian and, the far more social act of simply waving to those that passed by.
These included other pilgrims, of course, but also dog walkers, police, bikers, farmers and especially lorry drivers.
Such waves exchanged are silent gestures of our shared humanity.

 

[Former member 49149]

Meeting place for a celebration meal with all of the band of pilgrims with whom we happily shared our Camino Portugues. Among them, a lovely young German couple who survived on €17 for food between them per day, so they could have three days of relative luxury in Santiago.

 

[SabsP]

Little nest at the municipal albergue Casa del Cubo in Burgos. Earlier I already posted some pictures of entrance hall and bathrooms.
First camino in 2011.

I was amazed by the luxury of the place. Individual electrical outlets for charging your phone. Remember it was " only" 2011 and you can see that my cellphone was quite a simple one.
My Millet sleepingbag. This needs some explanation. When I was around fifteen in the mid eighties Millet was a brand mostly known for their typical coats.The snobs in school wore them as a statement. I found the coats extremely ugly ( for their style and what they represented ). So I swore never to buy something from Millet. Well...years later this brand seems to manufacture an extreme comfortable sleepingbag.Ratio of price versus quality is very good.

Also on the pic : the first guide I bought ( don't know if Gronze was already online in 2011 ) from Spanish author Paco Nadal. Still one of the best guides imho.

El Camino de Santiago a pie | Paco Nadal | Christendom | 9788403516618 | Standaard Boekhandel

La guía preferida por los peregrinos jacobeos, gracias a la fiabilidad de sus descripciones, mapas y croquis, totalmente actualizada y revisada. Cada una de las 36 etapas de la guía contiene un plano con la información útil del recorrido, así como un perfil con las altitudes y distancias de los...

www.standaardboekhandel.be

A small torch that I did not use much and a box with earplugs ( those I used much ).

And then a black garment which might have been a T shirt or my all purpose legging/pj trouser ( folding up my clothing in a neatly way is not my strongest point).

 

[camino07]

That hill out of Ourense

 

[Anne&Pat]

Pat's meal of pulpo in Ribadeo! I am not a fan! June, 2018.

 

[mspath]

Meeting place for a celebration meal with all of the band of pilgrims with whom we happily shared our Camino Portugues. Among them, a lovely young German couple who survived on €17 for food between them per day, so they could have three days of relative luxury in Santiago.
View attachment 109090

Kirkie,
This is quite a happy sign of hungry pilgrims. Do you recall where in SdC you ate that celebratory meal?

 

[VNwalking]

These included other pilgrims, of course, but also dog walkers, police, bikers, farmers and especially lorry drivers

My personal favorites are train drivers. If you're lucky you'll get a couple of blasts of the horn in return. That happened here on the Invierno, a few minutes after I took this photo. Made my day.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

11 Jun 12 Arzua to Monte de Gozo, leaving Arzua

apparently one cannot outrun or outsmart Corpus Christi celebrations, and the good people of Arzua celebrate with sporadic firecrackers. After a somewhat sleepless night, I searched for coffee at 6 am and found it at a place on the right in the distance, although I wasn't sure if she was opening or closing. Since tomorrow would be a very short walk, this was my last full day of walking before SdC. The rest of the camino walking I did in June and July was just Finisterre/Muxia and single stages of a variety of caminos sprinkled across Spain (sort of a sampler for future walks), interspersed with being a tourist, so this always feels like my last full day of being a pilgrim

 

[FourSeasons]

Del Norte July 6, 2019 San Sebastián. Sometimes I feel sad, disappointed even that my del Norte experience was so difficult. I was able to manage the terrane although very hard at times. It was the language barrier and lack of knowing which trail to take. Not knowing Spanish (my fault) there were times the locals were extremely mean to me, ignored me to the point I felt invisible. I accidentally left my guidebook at the Deba Muni leaving me with just the Wise Pilgrim App. I’m grateful I had it but I know I missed some great coastal trails. I was so confused on the different arrows, different trails so I stuck to the traditional route, mostly road walking. I’m not tech savvy so confused on how to download the “tracks”. Also for me, having a partner on this trail would have made a world of difference. Someone to contemplate the next days route with, etc……(I don’t know where to find a Camino partner). I’ve thought of returning to start from Santander (not taking Primitivo) where I transferred to the Frances in 2019, maybe starting in September 2022. I’m feeling I want to go back and try to finish. If you’ve walked from Santander on, what was it like? Easy, coastal, mountainous? What’s the best guidebook to show coastal route? Thanks in advance.

 

[Former member 49149]

Kirkie,
This is quite a happy sign of hungry pilgrims. Do you recall where in SdC you ate that celebratory meal?

Kirkie,
This is quite a happy sign of hungry pilgrims. Do you recall where in SdC you ate that celebratory meal?

Indeed I do! Casa Manolo. Looking up from the arch leading away from the Cathedral Square, it is way up at the top. Here is a link to a website with a map.

Casa Manolo in Amés address and parking

Find the address of Casa Manolo in Amés. We also have infos on nearby parking places and public transport, as well as surrounding points of interest.

foodlocate.com

It is a restaurant with set opening times, like a cafeteria, with sittings for lunch and for supper. Follow the queues! Not high class, but perfectly good enough.

 

[SabsP]

. Also for me, having a partner on this trail would have made a world of difference. Someone to contemplate the next days route with, etc……(I don’t know where to find a Camino partner). I’ve thought of returning to start from Santander (not taking Primitivo) where I transferred to the Frances in 2019, maybe starting in September 2022. I’m feeling I want to go back and try to finish. If you’ve walked from Santander on, what was it like? Easy, coastal, mountainous? What’s the best guidebook to show coastal route? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 109113

@kohara , @dick bird and @Anne&Pat will surely be able to answer your questions regarding the route from Santander.

I also felt the emotion of not having a walking partner to figure it all out when I was walking parts of the Camino del Ebro in 2013.
Sorry to hear you ran into lesser nice people.Hope next time will be better!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

If you’ve walked from Santander on, what was it like?

I’m so sorry it wasn’t enjoyable for you but glad you switched and found a different way. I walked as far as Oviedo in April and it was lluvia lluvia and more lluvia but I enjoyed it. Everything was beautiful water and forests, hard for me to judge hills, more than the Frances but I thought ok. I understand some Spanish but have a terrible accent. I did however learn a few pleasantries in Euskera (yes no please thank you good morning good bye etc) before I left, and picked up a few more along the way (slow, lost, father, tick ) and I think that made up for me being totally unintelligible. I also took to writing the name of the town I was aiming for on my hand just in case. One of my blog entries was “there’s two Z’s in Zarautz!”
I think this forum sometimes makes it seem like a “camino family” instantly appears, but the camino doesn’t make anyone more outgoing or less shy and it’s likely the luck of the draw if there are gregarious fellow pilgrims or not. I purposely walked a less popular time and route to avoid people and I think the Norte could be tough to find a sweet spot: if you walk off season there are less pilgrims, if you walk high season it’s expensive and tough to find a bed sometimes.
It could take extending beyond a comfort zone but I think the most straightforward way of getting a walking partner is asking in the albergue if it’s ok to join someone the next day. Or at dinnertime ask to join some for dinner/invite them to join you (I read there’s a good place to eat, want to join me) then over dinner discuss walking plans
I used the confraternity of st James guides and was lost more than once, cursing them in the woods above Markina that “turn at the two beech trees” is ridiculous instructions for a beach girl walking in bare trees in the rain. I also love Gronze.com, it can be easily translated to English

I also bought a tourist book about northern Spain and read up on the areas on the coast. I made notes from several sources then sent them as PDFs to myself on my kindle app.

edit: of course with covid who knows what the way will be like and ppl may be hesitant to join with strangers. Let’s hope things improve. Re: roads there was road walking I’m sure but I tend not to notice unless cars are trying to kill me. Fwiw I considered my time on the Norte the second easiest to get lost (exceeded only by the one stage I walked of Cami Jaume) and I think what made both situations so memorable is a lot of locals had no idea what Camino I was seeking. Not an essential part of their infrastructure (hence name of town on hand). Least likely to get lost in my book is the Primitivo

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

having a partner on this trail would have made a world of difference

It seems like the calendar section should help pair up people but I can’t seem to make it show me people say looking to start the Norte in spring 2022 or May 2022 etc.
perhaps I’m looking in the wrong place or maybe somehow it’s a feature @ivar might consider adding. I see random threads by people saying “I start next week” etc and usually on them several folks say “me too hope to see you” but it would be good if people could find a partner in advance.
I hope you find someone!

edit: actually it looks like the ability to post a year out is on the calendar it’s just that no one is doing it.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Ok I take it back about the Calendar function. The issue is people aren’t posting on it one year out. I suspect they don’t know about it. I did find people starting Primitivo and Frances May 2022 as the latest entries on the calendar so maybe it just needs better advertising

 

[Anne&Pat]

Del Norte July 6, 2019 San Sebastián. Sometimes I feel sad, disappointed even that my del Norte experience was so difficult. I was able to manage the terrane although very hard at times. It was the language barrier and lack of knowing which trail to take. Not knowing Spanish (my fault) there were times the locals were extremely mean to me, ignored me to the point I felt invisible. I accidentally left my guidebook at the Deba Muni leaving me with just the Wise Pilgrim App. I’m grateful I had it but I know I missed some great coastal trails. I was so confused on the different arrows, different trails so I stuck to the traditional route, mostly road walking. I’m not tech savvy so confused on how to download the “tracks”. Also for me, having a partner on this trail would have made a world of difference. Someone to contemplate the next days route with, etc……(I don’t know where to find a Camino partner). I’ve thought of returning to start from Santander (not taking Primitivo) where I transferred to the Frances in 2019, maybe starting in September 2022. I’m feeling I want to go back and try to finish. If you’ve walked from Santander on, what was it like? Easy, coastal, mountainous? What’s the best guidebook to show coastal route? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 109113

We’re sorry to hear of your experience on the Norte. We, of course, were walking as a couple, which is no help to you. But from Santander the walking was good. We used the Wise Pilgrim guidebook, which we found very helpful for alternate coastal paths. We had also looked at the cicerone guide by Dave Whitson before we left home and took notes but it was a bit heavy to carry everyday.
Also Peregrina 2000 on the forum has listed a lot of coastal alternatives which was very helpful.
Our Spanish is not very good, we get by with the basics, which seems to work.
We found the locals friendly and helpful. Walking in July you may have encountered more tourists than pilgrims, which wouldn’t have helped.
We started the Norte at the end of April and finished in Santiago in mid June. We took our time and had some rest days along the way. We met fellow pilgrims and walked with some of and on.
We wish you all the best for your planned walk in September 2022.
We are also hoping to walk in Spain again next year, starting in early May, if we’re allowed out of Australia!
Buen Camino
Anne & Pat

 

[mspath]

Setúbul, Portugal
port

photo taken December 28, 2011



Setúbal, Portugal, is across the Sado River from the northern end of the coastal Rota Vincentina.

December 2011 after finishing the CF I continued walking to Finisterre, per usual, and then walked down to the Portuguese border at Tui/Valenca. This involved going "backward" along the Camino Portuguese south from Santiago. Searching for yellow arrows pointing in the opposite direction wasn't easy. Viewed backwards the arrows resembled anchors; thus it all was a bit of a treasure hunt!

At Tui/Valenca my husband met me and we drove south to Setúbal.

 

[dick bird]

My personal favorites are train drivers. If you're lucky you'll get a couple of blasts of the horn in return. That happened here on the Invierno, a few minutes after I took this photo. Made my day.
View attachment 109106

You're right. They did that for us too, just outside A Rua (I think).

 

[Theatregal]

A grand old millstone in retirement before Diomondi on the Invierno.

 

[VNwalking]

They did that for us too, just outside A Rua (I think).

Haha, the same basic stretch of track - a sympatico driver, or maybe even a peregrino/a themself?

 

[Phoenix]

Cape Finisterre
After the CP, Oct 2019

This one is for the man I called dad; he passed away early this morning. He was a wonderful human.

Nearly 40 years ago, he began investing his love, patience, and guidance in a fatherless teenager. That love now spans three generations of our family and will continue to permeate the generations to come.

Just like those in the photo looking out upon the beauty of the seemingly never-ending sea and sky, his family—whether by blood or through adoption of the heart—stands filled with love and admiration, looking at the vastness and beauty of a life well lived.

 

[VNwalking]

@Phoenix, heartfelt condolences for your loss. May his memory always be a blessing.

 

[Anne&Pat]

Phoenix,
What a beautiful photo to choose for your post today. Our condolences for your loss.
Buen Camino to you both.
Anne & Pat

 

[Nick B]

View attachment 109121

Cape Finisterre
After the CP, Oct 2019

This one is for the man I called dad; he passed away early this morning. He was a wonderful human.

Nearly 40 years ago, he began investing his love, patience, and guidance in a fatherless teenager. That love now spans three generations of our family and will continue to permeate the generations to come.

Just like those in the photo looking out upon the beauty of the seemingly never-ending sea and sky, his family—whether by blood or through adoption of the heart—stands filled with love and admiration, looking at the vastness and beauty of a life well lived.

"Say not in grief ‘he is no more’ but in thankfulness that he was." – Hebrew proverb

Sorry for your loss, sounds like a good man.

 

[Nick B]

Ponte de Lima, September 2019

 

[Former member 49149]

Wall in kitchen, The Last Stamp Albergue. Summer, 2013.

Albergue-Hostel The Last Stamp - Santiago de Compostela

thelaststamp.es

 

[dick bird]

Del Norte July 6, 2019 San Sebastián. Sometimes I feel sad, disappointed even that my del Norte experience was so difficult. I was able to manage the terrane although very hard at times. It was the language barrier and lack of knowing which trail to take. Not knowing Spanish (my fault) there were times the locals were extremely mean to me, ignored me to the point I felt invisible. I accidentally left my guidebook at the Deba Muni leaving me with just the Wise Pilgrim App. I’m grateful I had it but I know I missed some great coastal trails. I was so confused on the different arrows, different trails so I stuck to the traditional route, mostly road walking. I’m not tech savvy so confused on how to download the “tracks”. Also for me, having a partner on this trail would have made a world of difference. Someone to contemplate the next days route with, etc……(I don’t know where to find a Camino partner). I’ve thought of returning to start from Santander (not taking Primitivo) where I transferred to the Frances in 2019, maybe starting in September 2022. I’m feeling I want to go back and try to finish. If you’ve walked from Santander on, what was it like? Easy, coastal, mountainous? What’s the best guidebook to show coastal route? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 109113

From Santander - coastal, yes, stunningly spectacularly coastal - the Cantabrian coast is the kind of region travel writers love to discover. Checking my diary, I noted that Cantabrians seemed less friendly than other Spaniards but I think that was provoked by just one encounter because I can remember other people being quite helpful. The Norte tends to have a short steep ascent at the beginning of every day, mainly because the albergues are often sited in coastal towns built on river estuaries. There was some road walking back in 2015 but it isn't all asphalt and they are mostly back roads, and a lot of it is along beautiful coast paths, with the option of a dip in the Atlantic. The only bit to avoid is the headland between Liendo and Noja. And between Bezana and Santillana, do not walk across the railway bridge.- the line is in frequent use. This may sound like superfluous advice, but some silly pilgrims do it . The waymarks were good and there were plenty of albergues. In September (when we did it), there should be enough other pilgrims to provide company without provoking a bed race. By the way, why not the Primitivo? We've done both. They are very different, but I wouldn't say one was harder or more or less interesting than the other, we enjoyed both. However, detour off through Oviedo then back onto the Norte again is my advice. It's an attractive, historic town and was an important pilgrimage destination in its own right. Hope this was helpful. Buen camino

 

[dick bird]

View attachment 109135

Ponte de Lima, September 2019

Ah, Ponte de Lima, my favourite brand of vinho verde.

 

[SabsP]

Santiago de Compostela.

 

[dick bird]

Between Orio and Zumaia, Sept 2015.

 

[Anne&Pat]

An hour or so out of Ribadeo. Interesting waymarkers on the Norte about ten minutes apart. Note the directions of the shells on the two different waymarkers. June, 2018.

 

[dick bird]

An hour or so out of Ribadeo. Interesting waymarkers on the Norte about ten minutes apart. Note the directions of the shells on the two different waymarkers. June, 2018.
View attachment 109147View attachment 109148

They just can't make up their minds, can they? This is between Boamonde and Miraz, near the end of the Norte. I am fairly sure there will be threads devoted to which way the shells point. They don't. The orientation of the shells is totally random. Well not quite. I think they make all the hitos the same way with the shell orientated in the same way, then carve the arrow according to whether the hito is situated left or right of the road. These mark two variants heading (obviously) in opposite directions. We went left via Sobrado dos Monxes.

 

[FourSeasons]

By the way, why not the Primitivo?

Thank you for your advice and details. This will definitely help me make my decision. Why not the Primitivo? I’m sure it’s beautiful however I live near many mountains with spectacular hiking trails. I told myself when hiking to Markina. Why?? “Why am I struggling hiking through the woods when I can see this kind of beauty perhaps more at home with less stress.” Also, the thought of converging onto Sarria shivers me timbers.

After Sarria August 11, 2019

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Thank you for your advice and details. This will definitely help me make my decision. Why not the Primitivo? I’m sure it’s beautiful however I live near many mountains with spectacular hiking trails. I told myself when hiking to Markina. Why?? “Why am I struggling hiking through the woods when I can see this kind of beauty perhaps more at home with less stress.” Also, the thought of converging onto Sarria shivers me timbers.
View attachment 109161
After Sarria August 11, 2019

you'll come out at Melide with enough time to make it to Arzua if that makes it any more appealing but I get it about wanting something different...

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

11 May, La Franca to Barro on the Norte



from adjacent pictures this was after the bufones de Santuiste (a slight variation from camino) and before the bufones de Arenillas (another slight variation then but I think it's mainstream now). Looking at a map I think it's Playa de Vidiago --it could have been me just turning when I saw a way down to the water but it might be on the camino. If I'd managed to hit at low tide I think I probably could walk around some of the stones in the water. It was extremely difficult not to take a rock with me.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

They don't. The orientation of the shells is totally random.

this is one reason I loved the Primitivo, yellow arrows painted on rocks or stakes driven into the ground then cut off. simple. so easy a sparrow can understand. and less big cities, when I always got turned around.

 

[Theatregal]

A bottom bunk in the Albergue Santiago de Redondela. The post walk and shower rest is a good time to examine the supports of the upper bunk. That end non-supporting cross piece is bent in an odd way but all else looks good! I was in an albergue (not this one) once when a top bunk collapsed. Thankfully nobody was underneath and the man above wasn't hurt!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

a good time to examine the supports of the upper bunk.

I always took a top bunk and never thought to do this! While not as big a problem as for the pilgrim below, it would still ruin my night…excellent tip!

 

[mspath]

leaving Granon
sign
February 23, 2006



Serendipity and tea

All was was bitter cold/windy as I arrived again at the San Juan Baptista parish albergue in Granon on the CF. "Work in progress" read a note on the door.
At lunchtime two fellows who were repainting the sacristy appeared and kindly cooked for three. Later a young Spanish pilgrim, Carlos, arrived.

By dinnertime lack of heat was a
problem! We four wearing coats/hats prepared and ate arroz Cubano huddled together by the fireplace. Outside sleet fell/wind howled; inside cold penetrated.

After dinner drinking hot tea sitting in our sleeping bags atop floor mats Carlos and I chatted in English, French, and my limited Spanish. He at 18 wanted to "do good" and to "find himself" and was curious how I had "found my way".

Next morning Carlos and I walked up the Calle Mayor towards the sign pictured above. Shaking hands we wished each other "Buen camino" and continued our solitary journeys across the cold countryside.

...
One week later as I arrived in snowy Castrojeriz at the door of the San Esteban municipal albergue Carlos waved excitedly. He had indeed "found his way" as an ad hoc hospitalero. Thrilled with his new duties he asked "Hola Margaret what about a tea?" Served boiling hot in jam jars it was a mutual celebratory brew.

Basic shelter comfort, chance encounter serendipity, and sincere sharing are precious at any time or age.
..Long may that be so.