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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 6.0

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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Nada!
It's also the best location in town.
In roughly 2 months (and several caminos) I walked with someone only one day: my second to last day was Arzua to Monte de Gozo, and just before that (long) slog around the airport met a young American girl not enjoying the walk. I bored her with silly tales until we reached MdG, but left before her the next day. I ran into her again in the plaza and accompanied her to this place to find her a room, with sharing my hotel room as a backup. They had one for her, and as I looked around, having already checked into the parador, I thought I may have made the wrong decision about my sleeping arrangements.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Indeed they are.
I stayed in simple pilgrim rooms in 2011 and December 2012, 2013, 2014 and always found it comfortable and most convenient. Added features are the fact that they are open 24/7 so that you can arrive at anytime, the obliging desk staff are multi-lingual, WiFi is free, there are multiple public spaces for casual conversation and the restaurant (open to all) serves a very good inexpensive 3 course lunch or dinner with wine.
What more does a tired pilgrim need?"
When I arrive in Santiago and walk through the doors of San Martin Pinario it feels like coming home. The same welcoming staff and if I'm lucky, the room at the very end of the corridor overlooking the Convento de San Francisco and the direct view of the pediment with it's two beautifully sculpted angels. It's become as special to me at the end of a camino as any of my other end of journey rituals in Santiago.
 
Sept 3, 2018
Near Samos…. I have video footage from this moment as well, and the clouds are just rolling in from the valley, making one fully aware of how ideas about the mystical came to saturate the region.
We would walk on about 6 k past Sarria on this day and stayed in a great little albergue in Barbadelo.
 

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Out of the woods
towards Astorga

March 2009 during a rainstorm a Spanish pilgrim and I left Hospital de Orbigo to walk the alternative CF route towards Astorga. Between Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias and San Justo de la Vega we lost our bearings within a dense wood.

Soaked and perplexed we tried to backtrack; suddenly a small dog appeared amidst the vegetation. Sniffing our boots the dog moved "ahead" waiting for us to follow. Trotting by our sides the dog led us several kms through mazelike holm oak towards this wide path which we three followed.

towards Astorga.jpg

When the towers of Astorga cathedral could be glimpsed, the dog ambled off, his task complete. We two pilgrims continued into the city extremely grateful for the special skills of our persistent four legged guide.
 
Pentecost Sunday 2012 a few km off the CF
Santo Tomas de las Ollas

Mosarabic architecture, X Century, church still active today (Roman rite not Mosarabic)
IMG_2624.webpIMG_2628.webp
Those who saw my hopeful peregrina face for food on the Catalan Camino thread, my face for getting keys to a locked church is almost identical, just without the drool but a little more persistent.
Link has better pictures and diagrams.

 
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A very industrial days walk between Gijon and Aviles but was also very interesting. May, 2018.
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So are you on a bridge or do they issue jet packs to those who take the road to the right? Because if I’d known about getting a jet pack I would have totally gone right at the split
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
The cloister at Los Arcos, an oasis of stillness. And the roses!
The rest of the world just vanished for a few moments, enclosed as I was in this inner space.
Which is no doubt the point of cloisters.
This one did a very good job of that.
IMG_4432.webp
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
September 4, 2012. Lighting a candle in the Eglise Notre Dame du Bout du Pont, Saint Jean Pied de Port,
the evening before my beginning my first camino. I attended a wonderful Basque Choir concert in the church that evening.

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Theatregal,
What a beautiful, meaningful way this was to begin your first camino. Thanks for posting this
memento of a special time.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
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When I arrived for the first time in Santiago de Compostela ( May 2011 ) there was a peaceful protest from students.
Edit: while Sabine’s photo is clearly a student protest, I had my own (different) experience:

As I walked the Norte some of my direction problems were related to my guide giving the Spanish names for towns and streets which had been painted over or chiseled off. The closer I got to Bilbao, the more “free the Basque nation” graffiti I saw. I bought stamps and phone minutes at the post office when I arrived at Bilbao. The next am, my rest day in Bilbao, I found I’d lost the stamps. Returning to the post office, it was locked. Around the squares people were hanging Basque flags, crowds were gathering, some with—as best as my limited Spanish allowed—some socialist phrases. Police cars started to appear. All the shops were closed. People with bull horns were directing others. “That’s it,” I thought, “the Basque Revolution has begun and I haven’t yet found coffee.”

turns out the rest of the world celebrates Labor Day on 1 May 😳
 
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I love the juxtaposition of @kohara's photo of the Cathedral, and @Theatregal's one of the church in SJPP.

We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
Through the unknown, unremembered gate
When the last of earth left to discover
Is that which was the beginning;
At the source of the longest river
The voice of the hidden waterfall
And the children in the apple-tree
Not known, because not looked for
But heard, half-heard, in the stillness
Between two waves of the sea.
Quick now, here, now, always—
A condition of complete simplicity
(Costing not less than everything)
And all shall be well and
All manner of thing shall be well
When the tongues of flames are in-folded
Into the crowned knot of fire
And the fire and the rose are one.


[The closing lines of TS Eliot's Little Gidding]
 
I love the juxtaposition of @kohara's photo of the Cathedral, and @Theatregal's one of the church in SJPP.

We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
Through the unknown, unremembered gate
When the last of earth left to discover
Is that which was the beginning;
At the source of the longest river
The voice of the hidden waterfall
And the children in the apple-tree
Not known, because not looked for
But heard, half-heard, in the stillness
Between two waves of the sea.
Quick now, here, now, always—
A condition of complete simplicity
(Costing not less than everything)
And all shall be well and
All manner of thing shall be well
When the tongues of flames are in-folded
Into the crowned knot of fire
And the fire and the rose are one.


[The closing lines of TS Eliot's Little Gidding]
Ahhh… such a beautiful passage. Thank you for posting VN 🙏🏻
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I want to love the San Martin de Pinaril…. I really do! Because I agree about not needing anymore… and that having a bathroom to oneself for the price they offer is *incredible*. The lounge is pleasant, the people are helpful.
Breakfast was a fine spread.
Unfortunately, whatever they were using when I was there in 2019 as a cleaner made my head ache so awfully and gave me such nausea that on my second night, I left at about 9pm and fund a room at a hotel near the train station (From which I would be leaving in the morning).
Also of note: I rejected the first room to which I ws assigned because it was pouring rain (with November temperatures) and my window would not close. The staff were nice and accommodating about that, but I was surprised that they had let the room out in that condition.
There is a lovely gift shop in the monastery, from which I purchased a delightful tissue with cardamom and anise. Wish I could find it for purchase online…
The location was great…
But those with allergies to detergents/cleaners etc… you may want to choose elsewhere. On my last trip I actually stayed in 4 locations: The Last Stamp — which was great; The Pilgrim single room in the Parador — which was a fantastic luxury (I also visited the curated objects in the hotel) and ate in the dining room that had once been the morgue; The San Martin de Pinario, that was charming but hostile to my biology, and whatever hotel it was near the train station — which was exactly the bland, scentless environment I needed.
If ever I arrive in SdC again, I will probably look to The Last Stamp, or to the very large hotel that is the first one that one arrives at when entering on the CP (It’s a high-rise; they have lovely staff, modestly priced rooms, and they serve beer and burgers poolside).
 
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Lugo Cathedral, the afternoon before Corpus Christi 2012
Everything has been polished from floats to Monstrance (look closely and you will see the yellow vacuum and blue polishing cloths).

IMG_3466.jpg
Time for me to lace up my boots and hit the road in the morning before the crowds appear
I'd carefully planned to avoid holidays and festivals but knew I'd have to be somewhere in Spain on Corpus Christi...just not Lugo!
 
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Burguete
photos taken 16/10/2015 , 18/10/2013

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Mid morning light shines on the Camino Frances/N 135 in central Burguete.

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Nearby is the turn onto this more pastoral path.
I love your pictures, they are always so peaceful or cozy or beckoning us to follow…if they were in a coffee table book I think it would double the number of pilgrims which might break the Pilgrims Office so maybe it’s a good thing they’re not
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Lugo Cathedral, the afternoon before Corpus Christi 2012
Everything has been polished from floats to Monstrance (look closely and you will see the yellow vacuum and blue polishing cloths).

View attachment 108470
Time for me to lace up my boots and hit the road in the morning before the crowds appear
I'd carefully planned to avoid holidays and festivals but knew I'd have to be somewhere in Spain on Corpus Christi...just not Lugo!
Lovely town. Don't know if Lugo has more than the usual generous Spanish allowance of festivals, but we hit one too, San Froilan, (Oct 12th) which goes on for 12 days. They had decided to celebrate with a mediaeval fair, hence the very un-21st century dress. They have a good albergue there, one of us was sick so the hospis kindly allowed us to stay two nights in the menosvalidos room. When I say 'sick', I do mean sick. There are some things a hospitalero shouldn't have to do, but they did it heroically and without complaint.

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Cheating a bit, but they are the same place - the 'albergue', actually a spare room deep in the bowels of the ayuntamiento of Tres Canto, an overflow suburb of Madrid built in the 60's (like a Spanish version of Milton Keynes) and with an oddly Utopian vibe, we half expected everyone to be riding around in pink-striped Mini Mokes. The security guards were most solicitous. We slept on a mattress on the floor as the bunks were already taken by two redoubtable French ladies who got ahead of us and kept up a continuous stream of info texts. The last time we saw them was in Segovia were they taught us how to drink wine properly. Soon after that one of them hurt her leg and they had to go back home. She'd left her pillow case in the albergue so we took it to Santiago and sent it back from there - if she couldn't make it, at least her pillow case could.

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Detail of the albergue municipal ( Casa del Cubo ) in Burgos.
CF 2011.


albergue Burgos.jpg
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
September 5, 2012. When I arrived at Orisson where I had a reservation, I was told that due to an overbooking error, all the beds were full but they had a bed for me at Gite Kayola which I had passed about a km before. I had a nice lunch on the deck overlooking the stunning view and then retraced my steps to Kayola. My first shared accommodation night with 12 people at the beginning of this remarkable experience - wonderful conversations that evening and still so clear in my memory.

orisson.webp kayola.webp
 
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I love those candles - a tangible expression of all our nerves and hopes and fears.
Morning in SJPP - I had arrived after dark the night before and this was my first glimpse of where I'd come to after 38 hours of travel. I had planned a whole day to rest and recover and get my feet on the ground and am so happy that I did.
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Photo of recent camino ingles pilgrimage. This is of a lovely inlet of the Ria de Betanzos, the hamlet of o ponte de porco, which you can probably gather signifies the bridge of the pig. I believe it is to do with a local family the Andrade whose coat of arms was a of a boar. Lovely little spot, with a little beach which was very tempting for a dip.

betanzos.webp
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Queimada!!!

albergue fire safety drill.jpg

I'm not sure if it was because he wanted us pilgrims to have a great night, or because the alburge was new and he wanted to create gronze buzz, or if the conversation at home went:

"Honey, you know I want to stay and talk with all of your family here for the holiday, and of course help with the dishes, but I must go see to the pilgrims!"

edit: this seemed about as safe to me as drinking flaming Sambuca at the Italian Officers' Club in Sardinia
 
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Villamayor de Monjardin
tomato

photo taken October 25, 2014

Local color.jpg

Local color and kindness

West from Estella on the CF grew several lush beds of giant salsify and ripe tomatoes; how tasty they looked in the golden sunlight of October.

When I asked about lunch possibilities the friendly hospitalero in the new Villamayor de Monjardin private albergue offered me this splendid tomato still warm with sun from his father's nearby fields. When cut and drizzled with fresh olive oil it was perfect.

All these years later I remember the delicious taste of that tomato and the kindness of his simple act.
 
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Villamayor de Monjardin
tomato

photo taken October 25, 2014

View attachment 108573

Local color and kindness

West from Estella on the CF grew several lush beds of giant salsify and ripe tomatoes; how tasty they looked in the golden sunlight of October.

When I asked about lunch possibilities the friendly hospitalero in the new Villamayor de Monjardin private albergue offered me this splendid tomato still warm with sun from his father's nearby fields. When cut and drizzled with fresh olive oil it was perfect.

All these years later I remember the delicious taste of that tomato and the kindness of his simple act.
Having grown tomatoes this year that at someone’s most charitable might be called wabi-sabi, I am in absolute awe
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
El Castillo, about 5 kms before Muros de Nalon our destination for this days walk from Aviles. May, 2018.

The town is named after the nearby Castillo de San Martin, in the council of Soto del Barco, which is located on the right bank of the Nalón River, on a pronounced bend from which the channel opens towards the San Esteban de Pravia estuary. Its location, on a promontory barely 40 m high, provides it with an excellent visual domain over the mouth of the most important river artery in the region and justifies its long history as a fortification.
The current castle was built by Alfonso III on the remains of a previous settlement, in order to protect the coast and the estuary from Norman incursions. Alfonso III, was the king of Leon, Galicia and Asturias from 866 until his death in 910.
Excavations were done between 1992 and 1994 by Elías Carrocera Fernández and showed a very extensive occupation sequence. Its oldest occupation dates back to the beginning of the Iron Age (VII-VI BC). Several pre-Roman hut backgrounds were identified.
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Eat your heart out, King Ludwig of Bavaria. The 'new' Castle of Manzanares de Real, new as in built in1475. Doubtful whether it was ever intended as a military installation and certainly never used as one. Next time we are down that way, we must go round it. Apparently it is even more impressive inside. This is near to the famous Ray y Rosa's albergue, but we couldn't get in touch so had to move on. Unsurprisingly, it has been used as a movie location, including for the film of El Cid.

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Join the Camino cleanup. Logroño to Burgos May 2025 & Astorga to OCebreiro in June
One of my favorite photos, and I may have posted it before:
Taken off the camino looking towards Pancorbo from above the town. I had gone for a wander without my pack after we arrived; the camino runs from left to right, through the town. If you are going from Burgos to Vitoria on the train you pass all this in about 5 seconds - so walking through it was a real gift.

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Via de Bayona 2019.
 
September 6, 2012. A welcome stop! Rest and refreshment with the very kind Man with the White Van on the Route Napoleón just before the Spanish border. He had hot and cold drinks, cheese, bread, hard boiled eggs, pastries, fruit and offered the last French stamp on the Camino Frances. On the side of his van he kept a tally of the nationalities of the pilgrims passing through that day and invited people to write a message on the van.

white van 1.jpg white van2.jpg
 
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September 6, 2012. A welcome stop! Rest and refreshment with the very kind Man with the White Van on the Route Napoleón just before the Spanish border. He had hot and cold drinks, cheese, bread, hard boiled eggs, pastries, fruit and offered the last French stamp on the Camino Frances. On the side of his van he kept a tally of the nationalities of the pilgrims passing through that day and invited people to write a message on the van.
i saw no van 😒 ....
how to miss the right turn.webp
 
Wow!! When were you walking?
Saturday, April 14, 2012. I'd arrived in SJPdP 13 Apr with the plan to stay two days, see the sights...but they were predicting snow so I left the 14th . So no one reading this does what I did (which I laugh about since 15 April 12 but definitely didn't on the 14th): the pilgrims office and my albergue recommended Val Carlos--but Napoleon wasn't closed and they weren't saying I COULD'T take it. I had also planned on overnight at Orrison. I stopped there to cancel in the am, getting coffee and telling them to give my paid for bed & meal to someone else. there were random snowflakes from my albergue to Orrison, snowing steady when I passed the Virgin, and shortly afterwards I couldn't see past what you see in the picture at best. I took pics of two or three horses in snow until there weren't even horses around. I also decided if someone found my body with hundreds of snow pictures on my phone my sister would be really unhappy so I pretty much stopped taking pictures. Walking in the snow you don't see anything, Val Carlos is the way to go...I just hoped to outrun the snow. I saw three pilgrims past Orison: two Italians near Roland's fountain, bickering over their decision to walk Napoleon, and when I missed the right turn to valcarlos at col leopoder (which I had totally intended to take from my first planning stages) a young Dutch man (slid) past me on the "wrong way" asking if we'd missed the turn. I told him I certainly hoped so because if this was the easy way I didn't want to think about the alternative. I continued forward in it because I was afraid walking backwards would get me lost since it was deserted. once I was on the "wrong way" (I hoped) I continued forward despite no markers because i was headed down so hoped wherever I was going it would be below the snow line if I had to spend the night outdoors. I had a lot to pray about when I went to Mass in Roncesvalles.

I found the weather in April to be highly variable for the part of the CF I walked and then after changing to the Norte

edit: Thank God for those who put up the tall sticks; Napoleon was closed either later than day or the next morning for a few days. I know many are grateful to see Roncesvalles (often from the hill top) but I doubt any will be more relieved and grateful than when I came out of the woods, and it wasn't snowing, and I saw I was in Rocesvalles I said nonstop prayers of thanks all the way to the albergue.

further and most important edit: I've spent several days in waist deep snow without a tent before courtesy of the military, so I would not have called anyone out in the snow to rescue me. The snow came in faster than predicted, and if I'd been forced to stop moving (which wasn't necessary until I'd lost the tall sticks and was already headed downhill) I could have spent the night outdoors...i just very much didn't want to--TLDR: nothing to see if you walk in the snow, take valcarlos
 
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Holoholo automatically captures your footpaths, places, photos, and journals.
First one after yesterday's photo, so leaving Padron, probably.
View attachment 108612
beautiful! I love the moon over the church. You know you've spent too many years in the military when you think "why is there razor wire around the church" then realize it's hoops to hold plastic over a garden. 😳
 
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Columbrianos
mural

photo taken November 16, 2010

Columbrianos, mural.jpg

This colorful mural on the CF is painted on one side of the Ermita/ Hermitage de San Blas et San Roque; two saints whose lives spanned 1000 years. Behind high on a pole is a stork's nest.

San Blas/St Blaise was a 4th c physician born in Armenia and is associated with curing throat disease.

San Roque/St Roch was born in 14th c. Montpellier, France; he went as a mendicant pilgrim to Rome and is
associated with curing the plague
 
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Columbrianos
mural

photo taken November 16, 2010

View attachment 108619

This colorful mural on the CF is painted on one side of the Ermita/ Hermitage de San Blas et San Roque; two saints whose lives spanned 1000 years. Behind high on a pole is a storck's nest.

San Blas/St Blaise was a 4th c physician born in Armenia and is associated with curing throat disease.

San Roque/St Roch was born in 14th c. Montpellier, France; he went as a mendicant pilgrim to Rome and is
associated with curing the plague
I imagine these last 18 months St Roque has been busy. He’s also the patron of dogs (a dog brought St Roch bread when he’d been sent into the wilderness to die once he became infected with the plague while caring for plague victims). He’s usually shown dressed like a pilgrim, pointing to a bubo on his leg, with a dog holding bread. Imagine my surprise in Molinaseca when I went to the church to see what my guide promised was a really odd looking St James—but it was fine since I’d been making an effort to stop for every St Roque to pray for the dogs so it was all good 😊
 
Saturday, April 14, 2012. I'd arrived in SJPdP 13 Apr with the plan to stay two days, see the sights...but they were predicting snow so I left the 14th . So no one reading this does what I did (which I laugh about since 15 April 12 but definitely didn't on the 14th): the pilgrims office and my albergue recommended Val Carlos--but Napoleon wasn't closed and they weren't saying I COULD'T take it. I had also planned on overnight at Orrison. I stopped there to cancel in the am, getting coffee and telling them to give my paid for bed & meal to someone else. there were random snowflakes from my albergue to Orrison, snowing steady when I passed the Virgin, and shortly afterwards I couldn't see past what you see in the picture at best. I took pics of two or three horses in snow until there weren't even horses around. I also decided if someone found my body with hundreds of snow pictures on my phone my sister would be really unhappy so I pretty much stopped taking pictures. Walking in the snow you don't see anything, Val Carlos is the way to go...I just hoped to outrun the snow. I saw three pilgrims past Orison: two Italians near Roland's fountain, bickering over their decision to walk Napoleon, and when I missed the right turn to valcarlos at col leopoder (which I had totally intended to take from my first planning stages) a young Dutch man (slid) past me on the "wrong way" asking if we'd missed the turn. I told him I certainly hoped so because if this was the easy way I didn't want to think about the alternative. I continued forward in it because I was afraid walking backwards would get me lost since it was deserted. once I was on the "wrong way" (I hoped) I continued forward despite no markers because i was headed down so hoped wherever I was going it would be below the snow line if I had to spend the night outdoors. I had a lot to pray about when I went to Mass in Roncesvalles.

I found the weather in April to be highly variable for the part of the CF I walked and then after changing to the Norte

edit: Thank God for those who put up the tall sticks; Napoleon was closed either later than day or the next morning for a few days. I know many are grateful to see Roncesvalles (often from the hill top) but I doubt any will be more relieved and grateful than when I came out of the woods, and it wasn't snowing, and I saw I was in Rocesvalles I said nonstop prayers of thanks all the way to the albergue.

further and most important edit: I've spent several days in waist deep snow without a tent before courtesy of the military, so I would not have called anyone out in the snow to rescue me. The snow came in faster than predicted, and if I'd been forced to stop moving (which wasn't necessary until I'd lost the tall sticks and was already headed downhill) I could have spent the night outdoors...i just very much didn't want to--TLDR: nothing to see if you walk in the snow, take valcarlos
We had a similar experience doing the Torres del Paine in Chile, except we turned back. When things go horribly wrong, it isn't always because of one big blunder: they can go wrong because of a series of little events and decisions that cumulatively land people in very bad situations. Glad you made it.
 
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We had a similar experience doing the Torres del Paine in Chile, except we turned back. When things go horribly wrong, it isn't always because of one big blunder: they can go wrong because of a series of little events and decisions that cumulatively land people in very bad situations. Glad you made it.
I would have turned back but there was no road to follow (well I’m sure there was one under the snow) and I was having trouble seeing the big sticks, so was worried once I was back headed toward orisson without the sticks I’d be totally lost. 😱

God watches out for fools and sparrows (or both).
 
Bending the rules again, but they are the same place. Sta Maria de Velilla, on the Olvidado. We trudged up the hill, ate a snack/lunch and were about to set off. The church, of course, was closed. Then up rolled a vintage Seat, and the driver and his companion got out and proceeded to unlock the camino museum next door. By sheer fluke, we had arrived just before the scheduled opening of the church so we had our own private guided tour. The little boy in the picture is Agustin Alfonso de la Puerta, who was mortally sick and the doctors had given up hope but his parents promised to give a portrait of him to the church if he survived. One can only speculate what the mermaids are doing here. The artwork is unusual, elaborate and splendidly coloured but obviously created by local artisans. It was a special day as the walk into Cistierna was an absolute cracker.

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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Bending the rules again, but they are the same place. Sta Maria de Velilla, on the Olvidado. We trudged up the hill, ate a snack/lunch and were about to set off. The church, of course, was closed. Then up rolled a vintage Seat, and the driver and his companion got out and proceeded to unlock the camino museum next door. By sheer fluke, we had arrived just before the scheduled opening of the church so we had our own private guided tour. The little boy in the picture is Agustin Alfonso de la Puerta, who was mortally sick and the doctors had given up hope but his parents promised to give a portrait of him to the church if he survived. One can only speculate what the mermaids are doing here. The artwork is unusual, elaborate and splendidly coloured but obviously created by local artisans. It was a special day as the walk into Cistierna was an absolute cracker.

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Maybe a geologist could answer that question... and that sentence comes from an awareness, vague! of times past when seas were where land is now.
 
God watches out for fools and sparrows (or both)
Well...and you had survival training, something a lot of us yahoos don't. So...

nothing to see if you walk in the snow, take valcarlos
Besides, it's an underappreciated and gorgeous walk - as well as being the authentically historic camino. Unless you follow Martin, Shirley, and Paolo as your 'historical' sources.

Bending the rules again, but they are the same place. [...] One can only speculate what the mermaids are doing here.
We aren't rigid here. There's enough of that in the world.
And I got curious about mermaids - at the time, they were apparantly a common subject in art, architecture, and design in both Iberian Peninsula and the New World.
This discussion makes an intetesting read:

Today I have no exotic mermaids. Just humble grelos. Camino Ingles 2018.
IMG_0082.webp
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Well...and you had survival training, something a lot of us yahoos don't. So...


Besides, it's an underappreciated and gorgeous walk - as well as being the authentically historic camino. Unless you follow Martin, Shirley, and Paolo as your 'historical' sources.


We aren't rigid here. There's enough of that in the world.
And I got curious about mermaids - at the time, they were apparantly a common subject in art, architecture, and design in both Iberian Peninsula and the New World.
This discussion makes an intetesting read:

Today I have no exotic mermaids. Just humble grelos. Camino Ingles 2018.
View attachment 108638


and of course, wikipedia. One thing I discovered is that the Spanish word for mermaid is 'serena'. i.e. siren, which is interesting.

I'll have to go now. My grelos are done.
 


and of course, wikipedia. One thing I discovered is that the Spanish word for mermaid is 'serena'. i.e. siren, which is interesting.

I'll have to go now. My grelos are done.
Grelos. A new name. The first new learning for today! Thanks to VNwalking and dick bird.
 
My screensaver.
I once finished a camino at Granón and took a local 16 seater to Santo Domingo. It followed this road through Morales and Corporales which were almost derelict at the time. It has now become my choice of route to Granón and both towns have been revived , be it for holiday purposes.
.Camino 2012 185b.webp
 
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Armentia, out of Vitoria/Gasteiz. Basilica de San Prudencio.



We did not stop to visit but it does look worthwile to do.
Next time!
I remember the absense of flechas when leaving Vitoria so I tagged along with @VNwalking who is the queen of finding directions!
 
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My screensaver.
I once finished a camino at Granón and took a local 16 seater to Santo Domingo. It followed this road through Morales and Corporales which were almost derelict at the time. It has now become my choice of route to Granón and both towns have been revived , be it for holiday purposes.
.View attachment 108659
Renshaw,
On Google maps your route is marked LR 323 or the Camino de la Ermita.
It passes by the Ermita de Carrasquedo. By chance did you visit?
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Renshaw,
On Google maps your route is marked LR 323 or the Camino de la Ermita.
It passes by the Ermita de Carrasquedo. By chance did you visit?
On another occasion yes , I was present for the Easter Sunday procession which was from Granón to the Ermita at dusk. To my surprise it was not that small and accommodated the 200 or so of us with ease. The procession consisting of Christ and a separate Mother Mary then returned in complete darkness to the Baptista Church without so much as a solitary candle. The older ladies started to sing and all joined in - MAGIC!
 
On another occasion yes , I was present for the Easter Sunday procession which was from Granón to the Ermita at dusk. To my surprise it was not that small and accommodated the 200 or so of us with ease. The procession consisting of Christ and a separate Mother Mary then returned in complete darkness to the Baptista Church without so much as a solitary candle. The older ladies started to sing and all joined in - MAGIC!
Ermita de Carrasquedo.jpg

I walked there from Granon in November 2014 and liked the youth hostel with dorm facilities and inexpensive good meals. No need for any special hostel card to stay, a pilgrim Crendencial would do.
 
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and of course, wikipedia. One thing I discovered is that the Spanish word for mermaid is 'serena'. i.e. siren, which is interesting.
From the ancient myths of sirens who lured sailors to their death on the rocks with their songs. 🧜‍♀️
 
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Besides, it's an underappreciated and gorgeous walk - as well as being the authentically historic camino. Unless you follow Martin, Shirley, and Paolo as your 'historical' sources.
I debated the historical issue vs. the views...me wanting to see something pretty much always wins when charting my course :) ...in the end, I saw lots of snow and my only memory of looking down at Roncesvalles was from the taxi ride from Pamplona on Fri the 13th, while our Basque taxi driver argued with the two peregrinas from Barcelona in the back seat about the Spanish word for something, turning around to do so on the winding road:eek:

i believe there's a lesson in there somewhere, although part of me thinks I should have just moved from the albergue that wouldn't let pilgrims leave before 8 am to a hotel. i'm a slow learner
 
San Miguel de Lillo, just a tiny way off the Primitivo, May 2012 built in 842

San Miguel de Lillo.JPGwindow detail.JPG
I have a fascination for the pre-Romanesque that I can't explain, so expect a fair number of old church pictures out of me...can you imagine carving that window

edit: in honor of Day of the Asturias :)
 
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View attachment 108684

I walked there from Granon in November 2014 and liked the youth hostel with dorm facilities and inexpensive good meals. No need for any special hostel card to stay, a pilgrim Crendencial did the trick.
The problem is Margaret , for me to be at Granón and not stay at Juan Bautista? Just cannot do without the 'We will Rock You!!' ;)
 
The problem is Margaret , for me to be at Granón and not stay at Juan Bautista? Just cannot do without the 'We will Rock You!!' ;)
Ditto Renshaw. I only ate lunch at Carrasquedo and then walked back to stay at Juan Bautista for the 10th time.
 
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Saturday, April 14, 2012. I'd arrived in SJPdP 13 Apr with the plan to stay two days, see the sights...but they were predicting snow so I left the 14th . So no one reading this does what I did (which I laugh about since 15 April 12 but definitely didn't on the 14th): the pilgrims office and my albergue recommended Val Carlos--but Napoleon wasn't closed and they weren't saying I COULD'T take it. I had also planned on overnight at Orrison. I stopped there to cancel in the am, getting coffee and telling them to give my paid for bed & meal to someone else. there were random snowflakes from my albergue to Orrison, snowing steady when I passed the Virgin, and shortly afterwards I couldn't see past what you see in the picture at best. I took pics of two or three horses in snow until there weren't even horses around. I also decided if someone found my body with hundreds of snow pictures on my phone my sister would be really unhappy so I pretty much stopped taking pictures. Walking in the snow you don't see anything, Val Carlos is the way to go...I just hoped to outrun the snow. I saw three pilgrims past Orison: two Italians near Roland's fountain, bickering over their decision to walk Napoleon, and when I missed the right turn to valcarlos at col leopoder (which I had totally intended to take from my first planning stages) a young Dutch man (slid) past me on the "wrong way" asking if we'd missed the turn. I told him I certainly hoped so because if this was the easy way I didn't want to think about the alternative. I continued forward in it because I was afraid walking backwards would get me lost since it was deserted. once I was on the "wrong way" (I hoped) I continued forward despite no markers because i was headed down so hoped wherever I was going it would be below the snow line if I had to spend the night outdoors. I had a lot to pray about when I went to Mass in Roncesvalles.
why here.
I found the weather in April to be highly variable for the part of the CF I walked and then after changing to the Norte

edit: Thank God for those who put up the tall sticks; Napoleon was closed either later than day or the next morning for a few days. I know many are grateful to see Roncesvalles (often from the hill top) but I doubt any will be more relieved and grateful than when I came out of the woods, and it wasn't snowing, and I saw I was in Rocesvalles I said nonstop prayers of thanks all the way to the albergue.

further and most important edit: I've spent several days in waist deep snow without a tent before courtesy of the military, so I would not have called anyone out in the snow to rescue me. The snow came in faster than predicted, and if I'd been forced to stop moving (which wasn't necessary until I'd lost the tall sticks and was already headed downhill) I could have spent the night outdoors...i just very much didn't want to--TLDR: nothing to see if you walk in the snow, take valcarlos
Smallest_Sparrow,
What an ordeal you had; glad that you made it safely to Roncesvalles! By the way never think walking the Valcarlos route is easy in snow; read why here
Carpe diem.
 
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what a magical Camino! do rainbows follow you all the time?
I've seen them on every Camino; never the same place twice. The one on the way up to Alto del Perdón appeared on an extremely difficult day (not physically). It wiped the frown from my face and gave me a lighter burden to carry that day.

I take them as reassurance from God: "Yes, you're on the right path, son."
 
I have a fascination for the pre-Romanesque that I can't explain, so expect a fair number of old church pictures out of me...can you imagine carving that window
Did you see these threads? You are not alone in that fascination.
 
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Smallest_Sparrow,
What an ordeal you had; glad that you made it to Roncesvalles. By the way do not think walking the Valcarlos route is easy in snow. See more here.
I would never think that! my reference to easy way is from the Col Leopoder and was from the briefing at the pilgrims office which went like this: We suggest you walk valcarlos. if you still decide to walk Napoleon, we suggest you carefully study this map. there are three important places to watch: turn here at the Virgin. turn here at the cross. and this is the most important: turn here on Col Leopoder to join the valcarlos. This is very important, going this way is much easier, the old way from the col is too difficult, we want you to take this way.

I was given the instructions with one other English speaking pilgrim who'd also self-identified as wanting to walk the Napoleon while the rest gathered around another volunteer for the valcarlos talk. Every time she mentioned a turn she'd look at him and me, but longer at me. Until the last bit, she looked only at me and said it twice. of course by then the guy next to me had also asked for the valcarlos instructions. I totally wanted to take the turn to valcarlos even before the snow, to see the monument and chapel. And especially after the snow moved in so quickly...I just got confused because I couldn't see the signs well, and the instructions had said the way to valcarlos was a right turn. The old way is unfortunately a jog right and it's all I saw and there were footprints in the snow going that way...and there were no more big sticks that I could see
 
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I've seen them on every Camino; never the same place twice. The one on the way up to Alto del Perdón appeared on an extremely difficult day (not physically). It wiped the frown from my face and gave me a lighter burden to carry that day.

I take them as reassurance from God: "Yes, you're on the right path, son."
I think you are right!

I was texting my niece (8 years younger than I) about the Camino Portugues (I think she should walk it with her daughter), and telling here about some of the really great photos i've been seeing here; I wrote

"the posts go something like this:
them: here's grilled scallops and fresh veggies
me: here's a bull
them: here's miles of pristine beach
me: this is a skeleton I'm pretty sure isn't human
them: here are street musicians outside our hotel for the fiesta
me: this is a sign saying "no bears for the next 3 km"
them: rainbows leading the way
me: the stream I fell into and got hypothermic"

I guess I'm still looking for the path, but He hasn't let me self destruct (yet)
 
I think you are right!

I was texting my niece (8 years younger than I) about the Camino Portugues (I think she should walk it with her daughter), and telling here about some of the really great photos i've been seeing here; I wrote

"the posts go something like this:
them: here's grilled scallops and fresh veggies
me: here's a bull
them: here's miles of pristine beach
me: this is a skeleton I'm pretty sure isn't human
them: here are street musicians outside our hotel for the fiesta
me: this is a sign saying "no bears for the next 3 km"
them: rainbows leading the way
me: the stream I fell into and got hypothermic"

I guess I'm still looking for the path, but He hasn't let me self destruct (yet)
The photos you post are uniquely yours; they tell a part of your story and how you see the world by the things that interest you. Much appreciated.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
By the way never think walking the Valcarlos route is easy in snow; read why here
Adding a second photo today to add to that testimony...It wasn't coming down, but there was a lot to slog through. March 2015.
20150310_154855.jpg
And I am envious, @Phoenix. I have never once seen a rainbow on the camino.
 
Indeed they are.
I stayed in simple pilgrim rooms in 2011 and December 2012, 2013, 2014 and always found it comfortable and most convenient. Added features are the fact that they are open 24/7 so that you can arrive at anytime, the obliging desk staff are multi-lingual, WiFi is free, there are multiple public spaces for casual conversation and the restaurant (open to all) serves a very good inexpensive 3 course lunch or dinner with wine.

What more does a tired pilgrim need?"
I too was fortunate to stay at the San Martin in 2013, 2016 and 2019. What a blessing indeed. Steps from the Cathedral an amazing breakfast included and your own room with bathroom/shower. The ambiance and the entire staff are so cool too. I have so many wonderful memories. For instance: during my first stay and after the mass and betafumeiro I saw a bunch of nuns sitting in the pews then later heard them singing in one of the side rooms, so beautiful. Fast forward to me coming downstairs in the elevator at San Martin as I got closer to the ground floor I could see some nuns waiting for the elevator. As the elevator doors opened I was in a sea of nuns. 🙏🏻 Roughly 50, too many to count. As I wiggled my way through these blessed souls I was in awe giggling all the way to the computer, you know the one you could use for a euro to get online. As I waited for a computer a priest walked towards me with the most beautiful crucifix I had ever seen. My face lit up as I asked if I could touch it. I held it in my hands as he told me his story when the Pope gave it to him as a gift. WOW!! I’ll never forget those moments. ❤️ I love this place, it feels like home.
C9ECE2E0-B1CB-444B-8487-44FFB7207139.jpeg2C9DB21B-D7B5-4A56-9A91-418F0A4F8BF3.jpeg
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
I too was fortunate to stay at the San Martin in 2013, 2016 and 2019. What a blessing indeed. Steps from the Cathedral an amazing breakfast included and your own room with bathroom/shower. The ambiance and the entire staff are so cool too. I have so many wonderful memories. For instance: during my first stay and after the mass and betafumeiro I saw a bunch of nuns sitting in the pews then later heard them singing in one of the side rooms, so beautiful. Fast forward to me coming downstairs in the elevator at San Martin as I got closer to the ground floor I could see some nuns waiting for the elevator. As the elevator doors opened I was in a sea of nuns. 🙏🏻 Roughly 50, too many to count.
This made me wonder if there was a term for a group of nuns: per

https://www.reference.com/world-view/group-nuns-called-5fa3f08c4324dd92

it’s superfluity although since the general use of that words is more than you need, and the world can always use more nuns, I think sea is better. I was going to suggest the same words as a group of pandas since they’re adorable and black and white…but that’s an “embarrassment” so sea it is!
 
It had never occurred to me that the Canal de Castilla must cross the Francés. It starts at Medina del Rioseco, which is on the Camino de Madrid, and has only recently (comparatively) been cleaned up and re-opened. Sadly, back in the 19th century, they messed around discussing where it would go and who would pay for it that by the time it was opened up, they were already building railways. It would be great if canal trips got as popular as they are in France and the UK. This is an esclusa just outside Medina. It is very early in the morning.

View attachment 108007
It is great to hear they have cleaned it. I hope it becomes navigable for canal boats, and people use it. Even having a walkable tow path would be great; and an interesting connection route between the Madrid and the Francés.
 
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It is great to hear they have cleaned it. I hope it becomes navigable for canal boats, and people use it. Even having a walkable tow path would be great; and an interesting connection route between the Madrid and the Francés.
The camino de Madrid actually follows the canal for a few kilometres and it is certainly navigable for some way from Medina - they have pleasure cruises, though I don't know for how far. The critical issue is whether it will catch on. Like you, I hope so.
 
Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
Cofradia del Santo
old albergue

photo taken February 22, 2006

In Santo Domingo de la Calzada on the CF the Cofradia del Santo, a local confraternity, was established in the 12th c. to help/host pilgrims. It continues to do so; their most recent multi-story extremely comfortable albergue opened 2013 adjacent to their headquarters.

However in 2006 the old albergue within the attic of their historic building was accessed by climbing a steep staircase. Basic facilities included beds for 20, blankets, hot plate, kettle, one shower/ toilet combo and very erratic heat.

old albergue.JPG

The only other pilgrim, an Irish fellow, and I shared tea, biscuits and discomfort. We each chose a bed along the interior partition, not against the rear exterior wall, since old exterior walls are usually uninsulated and cold.

By dawn all was freezing. Leaving as the famous chickens crowed in the garden coop I relished a HOT breakfast in the relative warmth of a nearby cafe.
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
A short walk on from Muros de Nalon , El Pito and Quinta de El Pito Palace, known also as the Versailles of Asturias. It wasn't open for visitors the day we passed by. May, 2018.
View attachment 108722
Not open when we were there either, 21 Sept 2019. I must have stood exactly 5 metres to the right of where you did and poked my camera through the same railings. We took a day out to stay in Cudillero, just down the road. It's picturesque but not a fishing port any more, very popular with local tourists.

P1000489.webpP1000490.webp
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
A few minutes after taking this photo, there was a convex mirror, and we have a super photo of one of our constant companions (from Germany), who was waiting for us. I looked up this site yesterday, here is what I found.
Screenshot 2021-09-08 at 10.01.27.png

Built in the 18th century, but one of its towers dates from the 19th century. Tradition has it that in 1582 the parish priest of Cruces had a stone image of the Virgin and Child carved to show his gratitude for having been saved from being crushed to death by a falling tree. The carving was installed over a fountain in the area. Years later, in 1732, a sick man from O Salnés who was on his way to Santiago to be treated for his ailment stopped to drink here and asked the Virgin for help. Three days later he was cured. This event attracted many devotees who wanted to be cured and who made many donations. The sanctuary was built with all the proceeds. There are two towers and a stone staircase leading to it. Nearby is the Fonte Santa. It has altarpieces, one of them painted in gold, with images and mural paintings, which depict the events that led to its creation.

P4190123.JPG
 
Now Day of Asturias in the rest of the world so...

Santa Maria del Naranco consecrated 848
just a few km off the Primitivo and a few meters from San Miguel, construction began as a palace but changed to a church, once it was consecrated the smaller church (originally Santa Maria) was changed to San Miguel...or so I've been led to believe.

Santa Maria del Naranco.JPGdoorway.JPG

Oviedo was a change-over city as I moved between my patchwork of Caminos, in addition to its place on the Primitivo, so I stayed here three times, twice with a layover day and once with half a day...it felt like coming home each time I returned🥰...but I will move on now
 
Now Day of Asturias in the rest of the world so...

Santa Maria del Naranco consecrated 848
just a few km off the Primitivo and a few meters from San Miguel, construction began as a palace but changed to a church, once it was consecrated the smaller church (originally Santa Maria) was changed to San Miguel...or so I've been led to believe.

View attachment 108750View attachment 108751

Oviedo was a change-over city as I moved between my patchwork of Caminos, in addition to its place on the Primitivo, so I stayed here three times, twice with a layover day and once with half a day...it felt like coming home each time I returned🥰...but I will move on now
Smallest_Sparrow,
Your handsome photos make me want to visit Oviedo for the first time ...However it is indeed a deep pleasure to feel "like coming home" each time you return to a place while travelling.
 
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
1631107008831.webp

“When one finally arrives at the point where schedules are forgotten and becomes immersed in ancient rhythms, one begins to live.” – Reflections from the North Country, Sigurd Olson

Early morning after leaving Sarria for Portomarín
CF, Oct 2016
 
Smallest_Sparrow,
Your handsome photos make me want to visit Oviedo for the first time ...However it is indeed a deep pleasure to feel "like coming home" each time you return to a place while travelling.
so kind of you, most of my Primitivo pictures are of skeletons and bulls :) ..but even a lost Sparrow occasionally finds a church, to paraphrase an old saying
I imagine "coming home" is how the Frances feels to with every step, how wonderful that must be (and I bet you don't get lost)
 
so kind of you, most of my Primitivo pictures are of skeletons and bulls :) ..but even a lost Sparrow occasionally finds a church, to paraphrase an old saying
I imagine "coming home" is how the Frances feels to with every step, how wonderful that must be (and I bet you don't get lost)
S_S,
In later caminos all went well but September 2004 was another story.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
S_S,
In later caminos all went well but September 2004 was another story.
“2004 signage on the Valcarlos alternative included miniscule yellow arrows painted on popsicle-like sticks randomly attached to trees, logs, etc. as in this photo.” 😱

I bet those big sticks on the Napoleon are looking better, huh? 😂…I guess that may be a reason I didn’t get lost on the Primitivo, no one wanted to walk up there just to turn a rock in the wrong direction 🙂
 
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