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I really enjoyed staying at the muni in Valcarlos. It seemed quite new, only had about 8 beds, a nice kitchen with laundry, and a very good sized bathroom with two showers.and we long to share it (with his wisdom of sleeping over in Valcarlos).
During all my caminos I followed the Valcarlos alternate route.I really enjoyed staying at the muni in Valcarlos. It seemed quite new, only had about 8 beds, a nice kitchen with laundry, and a very good sized bathroom with two showers.
I hesitantly entered ( you know the weary pilgrim look after you have finished walking for the day
Anyway..when I was drinking my cortado ( 0.90 € ! ) I remember two people ( one of the posh people ) patting on my back and wishing me a heartfelt Buen Camino.
This is the best post of the week. Beautiful!I sometimes forget this important lesson : people are people.
on the virtual caminos I'm definitely sticking with you and @VNwalking ...my fourth blog entry ended with "still unable to figure out how to find food here, at least the cerrado churches have a card taped to the door with contact info, not so much for the cerrado restaraunts ...fear I may starve"Sunday. Time for a longer lunch and a good wine.
This Rioja I was served ( not a Sunday though ) at Casa Barqueiro in Negreira.
I already posted a picture of the delicious food ( oh those grilled vegetables ) earlier.
Casa Barqueiro is listed in the Michelin guide ( and many Spanish ones too ) and I know that Juan Maria Arzak ( distinguished chef from San Sebastian ) visits the place regularly.
When I passed by the place I saw the red Michelin resto sticker. I hesitantly entered ( you know the weary pilgrim look after you have finished walking for the day). I saw an area that looked like a bar and got seated there, meanwhile watching dressed up businessmen going to the fancy comedor part of the restaurant.
Well, staff could not have been friendlier to this tired and shabby pilgrim.
14 € for the loveliest menu del dia I have ever had on any Camino.
Exquisite grilled vegetables as a starter ( fresher than fresh ) and as a main Chipirones a la plancha. Dessert was homemade cheesecake.
Combined with this lovely Rioja! And this one was uncorked in front of my eyes.
I later did a search on the internet what the price was when I would buy it at home. The same as the price of the whole menu.
Anyway..when I was drinking my cortado ( 0.90 € ! ) I remember two people ( one of the posh people ) patting on my back and wishing me a heartfelt Buen Camino.
So do not be shy to walk into a place that on the first hand seems a bit upmarket.They will most probably have a decent menu del dia that is only one or two euro more expensive than the sometimes dull menu del peregrino.
I sometimes forget this important lesson : people are people. I should have been more openminded and not think so quickly people would judge me for my appearance...
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Casa Barqueiro – Negreira - a MICHELIN Guide Restaurant
Casa Barqueiro – a Bib Gourmand: good quality, good value cooking restaurant in the 2024 MICHELIN Guide España. The MICHELIN inspectors’ point of view, information on prices, types of cuisine and opening hours on the MICHELIN Guide's official websiteguide.michelin.com
Restaurante Casa Barqueiro in Negreira - Restaurant menu and reviews
I recommend you to visit the restaurant Restaurante Casa Barqueiro. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.restaurantguru.com
Oh, stick with Sabine, definitely.on the virtual caminos I'm definitely sticking with you and @VNwalking .
I have the same "pilgrim" picture, but my guy has seen better days...he's adorable anyway!11 May so somewhere between La Franca and Naves, probably before Llanes based on photos...View attachment 107936
he was on this distinctive wall if any of you Norte-walkers can place it...
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I’ve aged more than that in four years so…I’m glad he’s still there, I wondered at the time if they had to replace him often, then thought about all the people posting here that they’d saved 2 oz by cutting all the tags off their clothes and shortening their shoelaces, and decided he was safeI have the same "pilgrim" picture, but my guy has seen better days...he's adorable anyway!
I took it in April 2016, somewhere before coming to Pendueles on the way to Llanes according to my photo sequence.
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I don't always like looking in the mirror these days, but I'm glad I am healthy.I’ve aged more than that in four years so…I’m glad he’s still there, I wondered at the time if they had to replace him often, then thought about all the people posting here that they’d saved 2 oz by cutting all the tags off their clothes and shortening their shoelaces, and decided he was safe
Your photo and those posted by @mspath and @Camino Chrissy today, along with previous accounts of the Valcarlos route have convinced me that this is the path I will follow next time!!Here's my view of Valcarlos, taken from the opposite direction. There must be a rut by the way where everyone stops, momentarily transfixed by the view. And of course takes a photo; this was taken a month and a day before Chris's.
I've walked it twice and have no regrets. If you have walked the Napoleon, by all means check out the Valcarlos alternative. It has its own interesting beauty.Your photo and those posted by @mspath and @Camino Chrissy today, along with previous accounts of the Valcarlos route have convinced me that this is the path I will follow next time!!
Indeed… Out of a sheer sense of desperation (born of pain everywhere) on my first camino, I dared to peek into the lobby of the Via de la Plata Spa in Astorga….. I was worried because such a place is *easily* $500 a *night* where I live. But someone had told me about their ice-water baths in the alabaster basins that alternate with hot water for a given duration… and the heated pool, and the hot stone chaises-longue… steam and dry saunas…So do not be shy to walk into a place that on the first hand seems a bit upmarket.They will most probably have a decent menu del dia that is only one or two euro more expensive than the sometimes dull menu del peregrino.
I sometimes forget this important lesson : people are people. I should have been more openminded and not think so quickly people would judge me for my appearance...
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Indeed..I agree with both of you.Indeed… Out of a sheer sense of desperation (born of pain everywhere) on my first camino, I dared to peek into the lobby of the Via de la Plata Spa in Astorga….. I was worried because such a place is *easily* $500 a *night* where I live. But someone had told me about their ice-water baths in the alabaster basins that alternate with hot water for a given duration… and the heated pool, and the hot stone chaises-longue… steam and dry saunas…
The woman at the desk was more than welcoming. She immediately offered me the pilgrim price, at the time if came to about $70 in my currency, the pilgrim price at their restaurant in the square, and a pilgrim price on the water spa.
I second @SabineP for the recommendation to peek in. Maybe you will splurge a little… but you will have an experience that few among us are likely to be able to enjoy at a similar echelon at home.
When we walked the Frances in 2014, we had two nights in Leon. The first was spent in the Albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal and the second in the Parador!So do not be shy to walk into a place that on the first hand seems a bit upmarket.
I checked up on this. Apparently, the belief that St Andrew was crucified on a saltire (= X-shaped) cross grew up in Mediaeval times. Earlier accounts describe him as being crucified on a Latin cross, with bound arms and feet.Least I could do for you solving my mystery of the palace ruins
although it seems odd his feet are bound if this is St Andrew (crucified on an X shaped cross) but I bow to the experts
I don't think I have ever been in Santiago when it didn't rain.
Ooh, is that a beach
I haven't time to read this, but here it is. Oh my goodness! My youth! It was then. Now is now. The best thing is to be where now is! And of course, to let good vibrations ease weary bones...Ooh, is that a beach?? Upgrade to ! I may need to consider this route. *sparrow wanders off to check route singing Beach Boys songs *
Local band. My hometown is mentioned in a signature song. Roller skating on The Strand, watching surfers in the early morning (and paying for it with completely unruly curls the rest of the day). The smell of salt water and coconut oil. Getting hopelessly burned over my freckles while all my friends tanned. Despite the drugs, feuds, breakdowns and well, that Mason interludeI haven't time to read this, but here it is. Oh my goodness! My youth! It was then. Now is now. The best thing is to be where now is! And of course, to let good vibrations ease weary bones...
‘It was the happiest time’: The Beach Boys on their strange second coming
They helped define the 60s, but were hopelessly uncool as the 70s began – and Brian Wilson was unravelling. The band discuss the masterpieces they made against the oddswww.theguardian.com
The CP senda litoral route from Porto to Caminha along the ocean with miles of boardwalks and incredible views is one of my favorite walks anywhere. Next time, rather going inland to Tui, I'll stay on the coast all the way to Redondela then take the spiritual variant after that.Ooh, is that a beach?? Upgrade to ! I may need to consider this route. *sparrow wanders off to check route singing Beach Boys songs *
I hobbled in there on July 14, 2019 after a long 30+ k day and my running out of Bilbao fast as I could. LOL. The older gentleman hospie took his time showing me everything about the place. Up the stairs, down the stairs. I couldn’t take one more step but his charm eased my agony. Lovely place. Here’s the view just outside the door next morning’s departure.The albergue in Portugalete. It functions/ed for around 6 months a year using what looks to be the aerobics room of the local polideportivo. It had a fridge, a microwave and a spindryer - remember those? Most of the pilgrims didn't, having been born probably after the last one was manufactured. A lot of the 'pilgrims' were, sorry to say, European backpackers having a cheap holiday, but not all: we met some good people. It was run by the local fraternity and we served as hospis to give them a two week respite, I think. It isn't very atmospheric, but I kind of liked that - the camino takes many forms, all valid. It is what it is.
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That would be Carlos, secretary/president of the local association. I mentioned him in an earlier post, his story is that his parents were Civil War Spanish exiles. He in turn had to flee to Spain when Allende took over. He casually mentioned one night that not only had he met Allende, he actually knew Pablo Neruda. A true gentleman. He used to watch me like a hawk as I entered the pilgrims' ID details. We must have just missed you because we were there in August.I hobbled in there on July 14, 2019 after a long 30+ k day and my running out of Bilbao fast as I could. LOL. The older gentleman hospie took his time showing me everything about the place. Up the stairs, down the stairs. I couldn’t take one more step but his charm eased my agony. Lovely place. Here’s the view just outside the door next morning’s departure.
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A couple of posts today reminded me of the wonderful food I've had along the way. On the Camino Portuguese, coastal route, the seafood was delicious. This was tapas at Becha (Galicia, south of Vigo) 4 November 2018.
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According to El Pais, they now do night time tours of the cathedral, 25 euros a pop and a very long waiting list.View attachment 108005
A sunny day in Santiago. View from above. Rooftop tour of the cathedral.Very recommended.
Not the best angle. Posted better ones in earlier threads but still : sun!
It had never occurred to me that the Canal de Castilla must cross the Francés. It starts at Medina del Rioseco, which is on the Camino de Madrid, and has only recently (comparatively) been cleaned up and re-opened. Sadly, back in the 19th century, they messed around discussing where it would go and who would pay for it that by the time it was opened up, they were already building railways. It would be great if canal trips got as popular as they are in France and the UK. This is an esclusa just outside Medina. It is very early in the morning.Fromista
Canal de Castilla Esclusa cuádruple
photo taken November 13, 2012
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Mid-Point
Constructed 1753 -1849 to transport wheat by barge the Canala de Castilla was popular 1850 -1870. Declared Bien de Interés Cultural
in 1991; today it irrigates 48 municipalities. Canalside pathways are used for recreation; sections of the Canal flow past sections of the Camino Frances.
This photo taken near the four huge Fromista locks marks the imaginary mid-point of my 8th CF. After four weeks walking roughly 6 hours per day whilest always carrying my loaded pack (6.5 kilos) I was as fit as might be hoped at 73.
.....All I needed then as now in late summer 2021 was continued luck, tenacity and endurance. Ultreia!
dick bird,It had never occurred to me that the Canal de Castilla must cross the Francés. It starts at Medina del Rioseco, which is on the Camino de Madrid, and has only recently (comparatively) been cleaned up and re-opened. Sadly, back in the 19th century, they messed around discussing where it would go and who would pay for it that by the time it was opened up, they were already building railways. It would be great if canal trips got as popular as they are in France and the UK. This is an esclusa just outside Medina. It is very early in the morning.
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I too was fascinated by all the cork trees in Portugal and especially the ones stripped.A recently harvested cork tree on the interior route between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima. (I left the senda litoral to walk a couple days on the interior route
You may just need to walk more caminos.I don't think I have ever been in Santiago when it didn't rain
There's a thread here about that here.According to El Pais, they now do night time tours of the
To be fair to Santiago, it doesn't rain all the time, and when the sun comes out on all that wet granite, the mica shines like diamonds.You may just need to walk more caminos.
There's a thread here about that here.
That's a beautiful purse, @Camino Chrissy.
I think I posted this before, but what the heck; here are some cork trees from the Invierno:
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| Chove en Santiago meu doce amor camelia branca do ar brila entebrecida ao sol. | Llueve en Santiago mi dulce amor camelia blanca del aire brilla entre tinieblas al sol. |
| Chove en Santiago na noite escura. Herbas de prata e sono cobren a valeira lúa. | Llueve en Santiago en la noche oscura. Hierbas de plata y oro cubren la vacía luna. |
| Olla a choiva pola rúa laio de pedra e cristal. Olla no vento esvaido soma e cinza do teu mar. | Mira la lluvia por la calle quejido de piedra y cristal. Mira en el viento desvanecido fuente y ceniza de tu mar. |
| Soma e cinza do teu mar Santiago, lonxe do sol; agoa da mañan anterga trema no meu corazón. | Fuente y ceniza de tu mar Santiago, lejos del sol; agua de la mañana ancestral tiembla en mi corazón. |
Madrid, 2 Sept 2015. I apologise to any vegans or vegetarians for this picture, because (apart from a tiny minority of stalwarts), the Spanish won't. This is not a shop, folks, this is a temple to Spain's culinary and agrarian traditions.
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It is. I don't remember exactly where though.it does remind me of the tienda Mantequerias Bravo but that is in the barrio Salamanca in Madrid. Your picture might be more in the centre of Madrid?
VN,The first time I went down this hill I just got mad, and kept wanting to kick the $*#@$ rocks.
Subsequently, the element of surprise was absent, so it seemed quite a bit easier with no irrational impulses to break my own toes.
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That pic was 2017, but maybe since then the good people in Uterga got tired of putting pilgrims back together again.Last I read the descent has since been improved.
HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!VN,
It all depends on the weather of course and whether or not you are alone. In 2012 there was rain, fog and total solitude; other years 2005, 2010, 2011 better weather and a helpful arm. Recently I read the descent has since been improved.
VN,In the conditions you describe, it sounds horriffic.
That pic was 2017, but maybe since then the good people in Uterga got tired of putting pilgrims back together again.
jocairns,HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!
would you cancel it if you were me ? Or would you try it? thanks you!!!!! Sorry I'm BAD at making decisionsjocairns,
Sorry but I never walked the Norte. However heavy rain and/or fog can make any trail difficult to see and slippery to walk.
Stay safe and Buen camino.
That depends on your rain gear and how much you enjoy walking in rain (seriously). I walked a patchwork so walked in snow and sleet from SJPDP to Pamplona, rain intermittently to Irache, I then switched to Norte until the Primitivo turn off. It was rain pretty much rain every day (although many of them only part of the day). My gear kept me dry (tip: a light weight runners ball cap under my rain jacket hood kept rain off my face) so all that suffered were my photos (although some fog-shrouded ones are pretty cool). The sea was wilder looking in the rain (and after the rain), in theory I should have seen the bufones but sadly that was a clear day so no bufones.HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!
More things to confuse you: there’s excellent train and bus service along most of the Norte, and major cities with easy bus/train connection to cities on the Frances (I assume that’s your alternative) so if you start on the Norte and don’t like it you can change.would you cancel it if you were me ? Or would you try it? thanks you!!!!! Sorry I'm BAD at making decisions
Also, if you aren’t taking poles I’d suggest considering them. No matter where you walk they are great for negotiating slippery paths turned into streams, avoiding huge mud puddles, making you more noticeable when walking on roads, and useful on slippery downhills.would you cancel it if you were me ? Or would you try it? thanks you!!!!! Sorry I'm BAD at making decisions
thank you so much, very helpful - i apprecite it!! That's what I'll do, I'll give it a shot and if I need to change then I will.. sometime weather changes! Best!More things to confuse you: there’s excellent train and bus service along most of the Norte, and major cities with easy bus/train connection to cities on the Frances (I assume that’s your alternative) so if you start on the Norte and don’t like it you can change.
wow beautifulcheating a bit, to entice @jocairns to walk the Norte in the rain
leaving Zarautz on the boardwalk to Geteria
View attachment 108149View attachment 108150View attachment 108148 Sparrow briefly relives her youth and wonders if roller skating the Camino counts
Ziortza monastery after vespers on a dark and stormy night
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Jo, I come from a temperate climate. If I were to wait for the rain to stop, I would be housebound... one of the most hilarious days on the Ingles was about five straight hours being dumped on by torrential rain. If you want sunshine, pick somewhere in the South of Spain... I am being flippant, but you know, you must make up your own mind.HI! I'm about to start the Camino del norte - weather says rain every day! I'm wondering if you think its still worth walking in the rain or if I should move to a different part of the camino? thank you!
Can pilgrims stay there or is it just a place to visit?On the Sanabres, April 26, 2018. Lichen and stone - Monastery of Santa Maria de Oseira.
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Yes, there is an albergue at the monastery - whether or not it's open in these pandemic times, I'm not sure. I didn't stay this time but stopped to explore and take the very interesting tour!Can pilgrims stay there or is it just a place to visit?
Be careful, there are some very judgmental pilgrims lurking on this forum (none on this thread though). Your problem is that if you switch to another route, the weather will probably be very similar unless you go down south to Seville and start the Via de la Plata. Soldier on, you'll be thankful you did, believe me. If you think you have missed a waymark, head back, start again and enjoy the warmth and comfort at the end of the day.jocairns,
Sorry but I never walked the Norte. However heavy rain and/or fog can make any trail difficult to see and slippery to walk.
Stay safe and Buen camino.
Sorry to bombard with posts, but when you say 'rain', do you mean torrential downpours? A mild drizzle? I would give it a go, it might not be too bad, and if it is, hop on a bus, or even better, a train (cheaper and you get a nice view). At this time of year the weather in N. Spain can change from wet and miserable to glorious and clear overnight.thank you so much, very helpful - i apprecite it!! That's what I'll do, I'll give it a shot and if I need to change then I will.. sometime weather changes! Best!
The contrast of the rural path vs the modern buildings is stunning, as if someone shopped together two photos.2 Sept 2019, heading out of Madrid after breakfast at McDonald's - they don't have olive oil in McDonald's in my country. We started from the Plaza Castilla. If you do that, keep on the right hand side of the main road, otherwise you will miss the waymarks. This is looking back to the city across a common where everyone goes for a jog or takes the dog for a walk, seemed strangely British. Just after this, we met a man on a horse who asked what the yellow arrows were for. Then we walked alongside a very long wall around Franco's old hang-out. We were definitely in Spain.
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Seriously? Envy.....an otter family popped up to say “Hey! Who and WHAT are you
Never thought of it in this way, but there are similarities. A pilgrimage town on a small river before a serious climb:Am I alone in thinking that features of Villafranca del Bierzo echo or mirror features of St. Jean?
You realise you are describing just about every town on the coastal stretch of the Norte?Seriously? Envy.....
Never thought of it in this way, but there are similarities. A pilgrimage town on a small river before a serious climb:
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Iglesia de San Pedro, Gijon. The current church, built between 1945 and 1955 after the destruction of the previous 15thC Church building during the Civil War. May, 2018.
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On my first camino in 2012, I developed shin splints a couple of days before Melide. They became very painful and I stayed at the Hospedaje/Restaurante Sony for 2 nights. A restful place to recover. Kind people and yes - great food!Melide
Hospedaje/Restaurante Sony
In Melide on the CF the Hospedaje/ Restaurante Sony had great food, friendly service, low prices and much macho atmosphere. This is where the road workers, police, and lorry drivers eat as did I during
past caminos.
December 5, 2013, when renovation closed the municipal albergue, I stayed here in a small single room with private loo/shower/hot water and HEAT. It was a comfy stop for that cold winter night!
I would not trust that cat anywhere near my wineglass.Sept 2, 2018…
We had a glorious walk all the way from Vega to Fonfria (where we stopped to sample the locally made cheese). It was a day filled with chickens (creatures I find generally hilarious). We ended our day in Triacastela and indulged ourselves in a fairly eleborate dinner. I do not know why the municipal was closed in Triacastela, or maybe it was just full… but Spouse found us a room at a tiny hotel and it was lovely to have our own bathroom.
When on long journeys, I desperately miss our cats, and so was happy to have this kitten as our dining companion… a street cat with a fair amount of charm and savvy…
I know that we had wonderful views on that day, but it was the creatures on whose lives my camera most fixed its lens that day.
kohara,I have a been in Santiago quite a few times but never actually stayed in the Monastery of San Martino Pinario until last month. Many of you have probably stayed there, i was very impressed. So full of atmosphere, history and loved the experience of eating breakfast in the old dining room underneath those splendid arches.
Two pics attached (i know it is meant to be one but the view from the bedroom as you can see was superb!).
The old monks cells are Spartan enough but perfectly fine, what more does one really need. I really liked the motif of the camino shell on the bed headrest. I took a little sneaky detour into the other half of the complex which is now a seminary, wonderful architecture which i will post a photo of another time.
I think I know the guy you are referring to. I get the impression the staff there actually prefer pilgrims - they are always unfailingly courteous and helpful.kohara,
Thanks for posting these photos.
Many of us have enjoyed San Martin Pinario. I loved it also!
My first visit I simply walked in late at night after returning from Finistere during a sleet storm. Poncho and pack were coated with ice and I resembled the 'wicked witch of the west'. The then rather elegant concierge said "Good evening Madame I trust that you ARE a pilgrim" and promptly handed me a key to a 23 euro pilgrim room. There was no need to show any Credencial since no regular tourist would be out walking during such weather!!...Those were happy times.
Indeed they are.I think I know the guy you are referring to. I get the impression the staff there actually prefer pilgrims - they are always unfailingly courteous and helpful.
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