September 28, 2004
Valcarlos
In SJPdP nearly everyone woke around 6:30. The
Amis provided a simple free breakfast of bread, butter, jam and tea or coffee, plus welcome conversation; all these volunteers had walked the camino and offered a multitude of tips. They shook each hand and wished “
Bon Camino” as we pilgrims left.
My excitement was intense as I began to walk westward through early morning fog towards Valcarlos, Spain. The town’s name means Charles’ valley; it is said to be the area where during the 8th c. Charlemagne and his army rested following a nearby defeat.
Several tiring hours, one false turn and 10 km later I arrived. Although the
Amis had mentioned that Valcarlos had an albergue I saw no sign! After I asked in French at the pharmacy the druggist took me to the mayor’s office for the key.
Set between two public lavatories (!!) at the back of the municipal playground, this bunkerlike albergue was small, clean and had interior plumbing. However the exterior loos flushed continually.
Inside I was alone with Mo, short for
Mousse au chocolat, a toy plush moose which long ago I gave to my father for his 90th birthday. After my father’s death Mo came back to me. Now in a stuff sack he served as my ‘pillow’ and silent camino confidante; I was glad for this company as night fell and I pondered the challenges to come.