LIVE from the Camino Invierno June 2024

[Wendy Werneth]

Did you ever try a night boot? That is what finally got rid of my PF after a year.

I did. Not a hard boot, more like a sock that keeps the toes flexed. I didn't think it helped that much. What has worked best for me is a combination of the following: the exercises I mention in this thread; cold foot baths (I carry a collapsible basin on Camino for this purpose); and shoes with LOTS of cushioning and custom-made orthotics in them. And avoiding asphalt whenever possible.

I'm so glad you finally got rid of yours! Mine only really bothers me when I walk or stand for very long periods, so mostly only on Camino. But if I take the above measures it's usually manageable.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

I did. Not a hard boot,

I used a serious hard boot, but I imagine it works for some and not others. I was also doing exercises and custom orthotics. I'm glad it's not so bad, It's so nice that it's gone for me.

 

[jungleboy]

Day 7: A Pobra do Brollón to Casa Rural da Vila — 25km

My favourite image of today’s stage came barely 10-15 minutes into it after we left A Pobra. I heard the sound of gushing water from the river to the left of the trail and a minuscule detour of 10-20 metres brought me here:



The rest of the morning was pleasant if unspectacular. There were no climbs which made the walking easy, but as a result there wasn’t much in the way of views. The only other notable sight was VN’s off-trail castro early on, and before we knew it, Monforte was upon us.

In the end we decided not to do any tourism in Monforte, but we saw a bit of the town on the camino, including the Ponte Vella. We wanted to press on but even so, it still took us an hour or so to clear the town (outskirts + foot bath for Wendy + pilgrim office + Lidl).



After our picnic lunch, the afternoon stretch to Piñeiro was a bit of a slog, in the heat and mostly on asphalt. So we were happy to arrive at our very nice Casa Rural (after three straight nights in albergues), and doubly happy to have just missed the storm that hit 10 minutes after we arrived!

 

[VNwalking]

Wow. Such good luck to miss the deluge!
Beautiful cascade, beautiful photo. Alas I missed it.

You'll be mostly off asphalt at first tomorrow, and on it again until Diamondi. But then...
And a nice uphill for Wendy's legs!

Looking forward to seeing the etapa reina through your eyes!

 

[trecile]

the afternoon stretch to Piñeiro was a bit of a slog,

Good to know that it wasn't just me who thought that!
I was relieved to find out that it's much more pleasant when leaving Cass da Vila in the morning.

 

[jungleboy]

Looking forward to seeing the etapa reina through your eyes!

I like the sound of etapa reina!

 

[Flog]

After our picnic lunch, the afternoon stretch to Piñeiro was a bit of a slog, in the heat and mostly on asphalt.

Those uninspiring first few uphill kilometres of asphalt out of Monforte are good to have behind, and you'll have relatively fresh legs for the giant slabs up out of Belestar! Will you stay in Chantada? Good eating options there..

 

[jungleboy]

Those uninspiring first few uphill kilometres of asphalt out of Monforte are good to have behind, and you'll have relatively fresh legs for the giant slabs up out of Belestar! Will you stay in Chantada? Good eating options there..

Yes to all!

 

[VNwalking]

I had a fantastic meal in Chantada, and hope you're just as fortunate!

 

[jungleboy]

Day 8: Casa Rural da Vila to Chantada — 19km

A foggy morning and a long stretch of road walking early on wasn’t the ideal way to start this celebrated stage. Luckily, it improved soon enough! When we reached Diomondi, the fog started to lift, and even though the church was closed when we arrived at mid-morning (as we knew it would be), the exquisite Romanesque column capitals on the outside were well worth admiring.



After Diomondi, the descent on a Roman road through a mossy forest was one of my favourite stretches of trail on this camino so far — enchanting, atmospheric and very Galician, which this camino has suddenly become.



Coming out of the forest, the views across the Minho were spectacular despite the overcast skies, and the sun finally poked out as we were climbing up the other side to allow for some more dynamic photos. Overall, this descent-crossing-ascent was certainly one of the biggest highlights of the Invierno.



As it was a pretty short stage, we considered going beyond Chantada to Hotel Vilaseco 6km further on, but in the end decided to stay in Chantada. Thai noodles for lunch was an unexpected surprise, and we’re only paying €30 for a double with attached bath at Yoel, less than the cost of two dorm beds at either of the albergues in town. Score!

 

[jungleboy]

I had a fantastic meal in Chantada, and hope you're just as fortunate!

Where? We had lunch at A Cociña de Fon and are currently weighing up dinner options…

 

[peregrina2000]

Where? We had lunch at A Cociña de Fon and are currently weighing up dinner options…

Earlier reports all sang the praises of Mesón Lucus, right on the river as you come into town. The original owners have retired, and I don’t think the place is what it used to be.

I was staying in the Hotel Mogay, and it was raining, so I didn’t want to go far. The staff recommended the Vinoteca. I had good tapas there, and I don’t remember them being particularly meat-laden. Very nice people. It was a nice mix of old guys hanging out and young couples.

 

[andycohn]

Following this thread with interest, as my wife and I will probably cut off onto the Invierno when we re-walk the Frances this fall.

Just curious: unless I missed a post, no one has mentioned Brierley's book. To @jungleboy, @trecile , and all you other veterans, has anyone used it? Weight is obviously a factor, since his books are not in a (good) electronic form, but any other comments, criticisms, reasons, etc?

(No need to mention other resources, apps, books. I'm familiar with them).

Thanks for anything anyone can add.

Carry, on, Nick! And you, too, Terri! And keep those great posts coming.

 

[Flog]

Where? We had lunch at A Cociña de Fon and are currently weighing up dinner options…

A few of us had a great meal in Bar/Taparia Parada my first time passing through, though I don't recall if it had much in the way of veggie/vegan options, ours was a veritable carnivorous feast and of course it in was good company and washed down with a lot of cervezas. They open early enough for breakfast too.

and all you other veterans, has anyone used it? Weight is obviously a factor, since his books are not in a (good) electronic form, but any other comments,

It won't weigh you down. Even though it covers both the Invierno and Sanabres, it's a skinny edition, half the thickness of his other guides, but in the same useful format. If you're a Brierley fan, get it..

 

[trecile]

Just curious: unless I missed a post, no one has mentioned Brierley's book. To @jungleboy, @trecile , and all you other veterans, has anyone used it? Weight is obviously a factor, since his books are not in a (good) electronic form, but any other comments, criticisms, reasons, etc?

I've never used a book, Brierley or otherwise on any Camino.

 

[andycohn]

I've never used a book, Brierley or otherwise on any Camino.

Books are sometimes useful . . . . Learned a lot of things from them in 75 years. On the Caminos, and elsewhere.

 

[VNwalking]

Where? We had lunch at A Cociña de Fon and are currently weighing up dinner options…

It was Meson Lucas. Who knows if it is as it was before...

 

[jungleboy]

I've never used a book, Brierley or otherwise on any Camino.

Me either, so I didn’t consider Brierley. I also figured the collective knowledge of @peregrina2000 and the other Invierno vets, in the planning thread and forum guide, would serve us splendidly, and it has.

 

[peregrina2000]

Just curious: unless I missed a post, no one has mentioned Brierley's book.

I have never seen a Brierley book — I first walked the Invierno years before it was published. This camino is the most heavily signposted of any camino I’ve walked, so you won’t need it for directions. I suppose that you could find it helpful for accommodations and route descriptions, but if you prefer not to carry one, there’s plenty of info available on the forum.

It was Meson Lucas. Who knows if it is as it was before...

See this thread. VN’s report is post-retirement and is from under the new ownership. I was there in 2019, it was very blah. But VN was there in 2021, so maybe the ship has been righted.

 

[jungleboy]

I had a fantastic meal in Chantada, and hope you're just as fortunate!

In the end we went to Daydos, a bar/restaurant a little out of the centre, but any place that has vegan burgers and will serve them at 6:30pm is a sure winner!

 

[andycohn]

I have never seen a Brierley book — I first walked the Invierno years before it was published. This camino is the most heavily signposted of any camino I’ve walked, so you won’t need it for directions. I suppose that you could find it helpful for accommodations and route descriptions, but if you prefer not to carry one, there’s plenty of info available on the forum.

Thanks for your comment. I know there's plenty of other good information available, much of it created by you and other people on the forum,

I'm not concerned about navigation or finding places to stay, but there is much that I've admired in other of Brierley's books -- his descriptions, his discussions of alternatives, for example -- and therefore, I was merely curious if anyone had actually seen and read his guidebook on the Invierno. and could thus comment on it based on personal experience.

 

[jungleboy]

Meanwhile, if anyone was wondering where those periodic millions of euros for Invierno way-marking go, I submit this as Exhibit A:

 

[jungleboy]

I was merely curious if anyone had actually seen and read his guidebook on the Invierno. and could thus comment on it based on personal experience.

There is this recent thread about it:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/brierley-errors-in-invierno-guide.87093/

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Meanwhile, if anyone was wondering where those periodic millions of euros for Invierno way-marking go, I submit this as Exhibit A:

View attachment 173130

We need a 'why?' emoji ! Talk about overkill.

 

[Tincatinker]

We need a 'why?' emoji ! Talk about overkill.

Ah, Peter, remember this is Galicia. The varied heights of the markers are obviously to maintain useable way marking no matter the height of the flooding or the depth of the fog

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Just curious: unless I missed a post, no one has mentioned Brierley's book.

I purchased the Brierley book. It covers both the Sanabres and the Invierno. I always keep a shelf for all of my guidebooks as I write notes in them before I go and underline things that are of interest to me, in addition to some forum nuggets I add.
Anyhow, I was a disappointed in the Brierley version I purposely had purchased for the Sanabres because he only covers it from Ourense, but I had started from much farther back. Thankfully Gronze does a great job with good info, and as others have said many times, guidebooks are no longer the necessity they once were since many Camino apps have mushroomed in more recent years.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

€30 for a double with attached bath at Yoel, less than the cost of two dorm beds at either of the albergues in town.

They renovated their rooms a few years ago and I haven't been there since. How did you find the standard? Earlier Gronze reviews said dark, cold, miserable...

Yoel has always been the cheapest alternative in Chantada and I think it was ok even before they renovated - but I must say both new albergues are superb!

 

[trecile]

Yoel has always been the cheapest alternative in Chantada and I think it was ok even before they renovated - but I must say both new albergues are superb!

Albergue Dpaso was fantastic!

 

[jungleboy]

They renovated their rooms a few years ago and I haven't been there since. How did you find the standard? Earlier Gronze reviews said dark, cold, miserable...

Our room is fine, thankfully not at all like those reviews.

 

[VNwalking]

In the end we went to Daydos, a bar/restaurant a little out of the centre, but any place that has vegan burgers and will serve them at 6:30pm is a sure winner!

Man oh man. You struck gold! Wonderful.
(Spain has changed a bit in the last decade, I must say.. )

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Albergue Dpaso was fantastic!

Yes, indeed. The hospitalera was so nice! Everything was so tidy and spotlessly clean it could have been a spaceship!! And I never slept so good before.

 

[Flog]

Our room is fine, not at all like those reviews.

Accomodation wise, things have indeed vastly improved over the past few years in Chantada. Here, my notes from 2021, it's not the place you're staying, but others might recognise it..

I go looking for the pension I've booked. It's up the hill at the top end of the town, upstairs over a grubby bar that's seen better days and there's a brothel in the basement. I think the other guys are staying here too. There is little choice of accomodation in Chantada, despite it being a busy, vibrant town of about 4,000. I get the key off the owner, a sad looking woman who hardly looks up at me. Her son is skulking in the kitchen doorway watching sport on the tv, avoiding any notion of work it would seem. The room is a bit grim, slivers of blankets and a towel almost worn through. The window is facing the central courtyard so there's little daylight. The bed is sagging and worn out too, and I consider not using it at all but the floor looks even less inviting..

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Accomodation wise, things have indeed vastly improved over the past few years in Chantada. Here, my notes from 2021, it's not the place you're staying, but others might recognise it..

I go looking for the pension I've booked. It's up the hill at the top end of the town, upstairs over a grubby bar that's seen better days and there's a brothel in the basement. I think the other guys are staying here too. There is little choice of accomodation in Chantada, despite it being a busy, vibrant town of about 4,000. I get the key off the owner, a sad looking woman who hardly looks up at me. Her son is skulking in the kitchen doorway watching sport on the tv, avoiding any notion of work it would seem. The room is a bit grim, slivers of blankets and a towel almost worn through. The window is facing the central courtyard so there's little daylight. The bed is sagging and worn out too, and I consider not using it at all but the floor looks even less inviting..

Yes thanks, I recognize it ! I think the son was in charge the day I arrived... Not a very talkative chap. Let's not reveal the name of that place, for the sake of future pilgrims...

 

[peregrina2000]

I stayed there too. In my first Invierno. I remember that the sheets on my bed were clearly dirty, but there was a pile of clean laundry on a table outside. So I changed the sheets myself! After that experience, I became a member of the Mogay fan club.

If we were concerned about your pilgrims, we would mention the name of the place, don’t you think?

 

[Flog]

It hardly matters to me at any rate.. looking back, it was just another of those surreal experiences that give us something to laugh about later:

At the end of the night the camarero brings over a little tray with shots of orujo. Going back up the hill to the pension with Tobar and Willie, we find the brothel which was shuttered earlier, is open with a big neon sign and disco lights... you can usually see Spanish brothels on the national roads for miles, I think traditionally it's to lure the truck drivers and alert them from a good distance, but I don't think I've seen one in a town before. There's a hooker having a cigarette leaning up against the outside door of our pension and she has to move aside so we can file past her, smirking like schoolboys.

I didn't stay there on my last invierno, but it wouldn't have killed me to.

Sorry for the hijacking, Jungleboy! It's supposed to be your thread..

 

[El Cascayal]

I go looking for the pension I've booked. It's up the hill at the top end of the town, upstairs over a grubby bar that's seen better days and there's a brothel in the basement

From your very vivid description I’m pretty sure I stayed here in November of 2019. Totally unaware of the lower activities. There was a clear cool refreshing fountain across the road.

 

[andycohn]

I purchased the Brierley book. It covers both the Sanabres and the Invierno. I always keep a shelf for all of my guidebooks as I write notes in them before I go and underline things that are of interest to me, in addition to some forum nuggets I add.
Anyhow, I was a disappointed in the Brierley version I purposely had purchased for the Sanabres because he only covers it from Ourense, but I had started from much farther back. Thankfully Gronze does a great job with good info, and as others have said many times, guidebooks are no longer the necessity they once were since many Camino apps have mushroomed in more recent years.

Thanks for responding. I'm more than aware of all the apps now available, and have relied on them almost exclusively for many caminos now. But Brierley was certainly useful to me back in the day, so was simply wondering whether anyone had consulted him for the Invierno. Sometimes professional writers have helpful things to say . . . .

 

[Flog]

Sometimes professional writers have helpful things to say . . . .

Indeed they do and he did. I always liked his style and layout, it was my bible and only prior reference to my first camino.
But a primary concern for you was weight.. well lookit, this one neednt be, it's pencil thin.. see

And I must apologise for hijacking the thread again, but for the last time.

 

[Simperegrina]

Albergue Dpaso was fantastic!

Yep, one of the best albergues for me. Comfy beds, great privacy curtains on bunks as well as a separating sets of bunks, great shower facilities and other communal areas, and friendly hospi

 

[jungleboy]

Day 9: Chantada to Rodeiro — 25km

Before getting into today’s stage, I should acknowledge that Chantada is quite a nice town, maybe my favourite on the Invierno so far for its small but handsome historic centre, as well as the riverside entry.



Weather-wise, today followed what has become a familiar pattern in recent days: fog/cloud in the morning, with the sun piercing through sometime around midday (though thankfully earlier today). There wasn’t much to the first part of the stage today, although Wendy saw a deer and we swung on a swing in the fields, and we made good time. Penasillás was an attractive village and the bar was open when we passed through at about 9:30am, allowing us to get a stamp.

As we climbed to the Ermida de Nossa Señora do Faro, it alternated between fog and sunshine. Fortunately it was clear when we reached the top!



The descent and trail to Rodeiro was quite pleasant, although in full sunshine by then and we heard the usual ‘hace calor’ from the locals we greeted. As for the landscape, unlike some, I have always been quite fascinated by wind farms since I first saw them, in this very country, in 2001, and I think it’s cool to see and hear them up close occasionally. We also saw nice forest scenery around the Fonte dos Meniños.



The albergue at Rodeiro (Carpinteiras) is modern and well-equipped, although anyone coming by soon should be aware that it’s closed from 1-15 July this year for holidays. Speaking of being closed, that was unfortunately the case for Panadería Jesús, even though we were well within their opening hours. Meanwhile, after enjoying Chantada, Rodeiro seems pretty uninteresting and typical of some of these last 100km towns. Hopefully Lalín tomorrow will be more interesting as we have a shorter day and therefore more time in the afternoon to explore / print documents for life admin!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

The albergue at Rodeiro (Carpinteiras) is modern and well-equipped, although anyone coming by soon should be aware that it’s closed from 1-15 July this year for holidays

Oh! Did they say anything about other places to stay in town during this period?

 

[jungleboy]

Oh! Did they say anything about other places to stay in town during this period?

Gronze lists two other places:

 

[peregrina2000]

The albergue at Rodeiro (Carpinteiras) is modern and well-equipped, although anyone coming by soon should be aware that it’s closed from 1-15 July this year for holidays.

That’s a good heads up for people walking in the near future. Rodeiro isn’t exactly bursting with alternative options!

I took a look at Gronze’s listings. @setmeravelles left a good review for the hostal that’s about 750 m off-route (with info on good prices and a way back to the camino without backtracking). The other option is the apartments, which are listed on booking and not bad for two, but steep for one! You never know, maybe pilgrim prices are available.

 

[VNwalking]

Speaking of being closed, that was unfortunately the case for Panadería Jesús, even though we were well within their opening hours

Dang. Maybe it'll be open in the morning?

 

[Paul McAmino]

Thanks for responding. I'm more than aware of all the apps now available, and have relied on them almost exclusively for many caminos now. But Brierley was certainly useful to me back in the day, so was simply wondering whether anyone had consulted him for the Invierno. Sometimes professional writers have helpful things to say . . . .

I am using the Brierley book for planning my invierno next Spring. I like the maps, with all their flaws, probably because I’m used to them. I have spent several evenings happily following @jungleboy’s (thanks jb) path on the Brierley maps. I’m trying to keep my daily distance manageable, and this early planning method works for me.
Not sure I’ll bring the book, since the way marking looks mostly stellar and the online resources are slick

All the best,
Paul

 

[debigetsout]

I was hoping that you would reply. I know that you and @peregrina2000 have tackled some serious caminos, difficulty wise and I know that you are the age of a very, very slightly older sister . It is a camino I have wanted to do for a long time. I am thinking of incorporating it next year as my final leg. Do the Mozarabe and then bus or train north to Ponferrada. Gronze puts it at almost 900K. A good distance for me. Maybe finish up with a short walk to Muxia. Love that camino. After warming up on the Mozarabe it should be fine. Thanks!

I wouldn't call the Mozarabe a warm up, but it is a wonderful walk! Enjoy!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Not sure I’ll bring the book,

I have been taking screenshots of my guidebooks on my phone (starting with the back page). I then leave the book at home and delete the screenshots as I go along. It really doesn't take very long to do as the phone takes two pages at a time.

 

[peregrina2000]

I have been taking screenshots of my guidebooks on my phone (starting with the back page). I then leave the book at home and delete the screenshots as I go along. It really doesn't take very long to do as the phone takes two pages at a time.

I am glad you didn’t recommend ripping out the pages as you went, because I have seen @jungleboy’s horrified reaction to that suggestion before! Back in the day when the Valencia amigos published a hard copy guide to the Levante, I bought one and engaged in book desecration, but it was VERY heavy!

 

[VNwalking]

I bought one and engaged in book desecration

I did that on my first Francès. At first it was very hard to do, but later I could rip and tear with glee. It was only a Brierley guide, which made the desecration a bit easier. But still. Normally I can't even dogear a page in a book.

I have been taking screenshots of my guidebooks on my phone

You're onto a good idea, Chris!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am glad you didn’t recommend ripping out the pages as you went, because I have seen @jungleboy’s horrified reaction to that suggestion before! Back in the day when the Valencia amigos published a hard copy guide to the Levante, I bought one and engaged in book desecration, but it was VERY heavy!

I treasure each and every guide book I own, so no way would I rip pages!

 

[setmeravelles]

To expand on the Gronze review on the hostal that @peregrina2000 mentioned

I stayed at Hostal A Latizia in 2022. It's a truck stop hostal outside of town, but they have a somewhat marked shortcut back to the Camino so you don't have to retrace your steps. I was glad I stayed there. The room was pretty basic, but it was good food and a friendly owner. The comedor was pretty busy when I arrived but they found a place for me to sit and eat. So this is a nice alternative if the albergue isn't open. I thought it was in town, so I was pretty disappointed to have to walk further at the time. But it was a welcoming place. Every place I stayed on the Invierno was great though.

I feel taking a pic of pages is a much better alternative to ripping out pages...

For @jungleboy even if I don't comment or react, I am reading all of these and being reminded of my 2022 Invierno. Thanks for the memories. ¡Buen Camino!

 

[andycohn]

I am using the Brierley book for planning my invierno next Spring. I like the maps, with all their flaws, probably because I’m used to them. I have spent several evenings happily following @jungleboy’s (thanks jb) path on the Brierley maps. I’m trying to keep my daily distance manageable, and this early planning method works for me.
Not sure I’ll bring the book, since the way marking looks mostly stellar and the online resources are slick

All the best,
Paul

I'll probably get the guidebook, since I was always a Brierley fan, and a la @Camino Chrissy, I'll take pictures of the useful pages and not tote it along. I do confess, however, to having been a desecrator of guidebooks in my young and foolish days. Like @peregrina2000, my excuse is that they were VERY heavy. Though that's probably a slippery slope, since "very heavy" might have a different connotation for those -- like me -- who choose one T-shirt over another because it weighs 3 grams less.

Meanwhile, making a long list of the recommendations you all have posted. (For my phone, of course). Thanks.

 

[peregrina2000]

I stayed at Hostal A Latizia in 2022. It's a truck stop hostal outside of town,

Looking at google maps, the Latizia is about a km beyond the spot where the camino turns off the road leaving Rodeiro. The screenshot shows the chicken processing plant (or is it rabbit?) that is located right at the spot where the camino turns off road to the right. To get to the Latizia, you just keep going along the road. Even if you have to backtrack, it’s not that big a deal, especially since it’s a pretty short day.

I know some have stayed on the side of the road fro Rodeiro all the way to Lalín, and though I am no purist, I think the off-road route through several small hamlets, many open fields, and some wooded areas, must be far superior to walking on the side of a fairly busy road. But if you need to do it, it is apparently safe, with a good-sized shoulder.

 

[jungleboy]

Dang. Maybe it'll be open in the morning?

Only from 8:30am, which is too late for us. But we might go past it anyway just in case it’s open earlier.

 

[Simperegrina]

Looking at google maps, the Latizia is about a km beyond the spot where the camino turns off the road leaving Rodeiro. The screenshot shows the chicken processing plant (or is it rabbit?) that is located right at the spot where the camino turns off road to the right. To get to the Latizia, you just keep going along the road. Even if you have to backtrack, it’s not that big a deal, especially since it’s a pretty short day.

I know some have stayed on the side of the road fro Rodeiro all the way to Lalín, and though I am no purist, I think the off-road route through several small hamlets, many open fields, and some wooded areas, must be far superior to walking on the side of a fairly busy road. But if you need to do it, it is apparently safe, with a good-sized shoulder.

View attachment 173229

Rabbits, not chickens, meet their end at the processing plant.

I stayed on the road when I walked it in March. I had a lot of accumulated tiredness, not helped by practically no sleep the previous night, and wanted a short day to A Laxe. You walk along a service road separated from the main road. One advantage is that there’s a bar open about 2-2.5 hours on from Rodeiro, which came as a welcome coffee stop.

 

[jungleboy]

Day 10: Rodeiro to Lalín — 22km

We left the albergue in Rodeiro just after 7am and decided to swing by the famous bakery (Panadería Jesús, which bakes for the royal family, among others) just in case, even though it’s not supposed to open until 8:30am. And it was open! At least, the back rooms were open and they let us look around and buy a baguette. It was a very interesting scene as almost all the bread was loaded in crates, ready to go out for delivery.



After that little victory, we left Rodeiro in good spirits despite an overcast day and that inescapable feeling that the best of the Invierno is now behind us. Today’s stage was very rural and fairly pleasant, although sadly we did see a lot of animal exploitation in the hamlets (cows and pigs in very confined spaces). On a more positive note, there were some nice forest-river scenes throughout the stage, and a self-stamp service (and vending machine coffee) in A Eirexe.



We arrived in Lalín in time for lunch and are now resting at the albergue. We’re looking forward to visiting the pilgrims centre downstairs when it reopens later after siesta to get one of its famous stamps!

 

[Simperegrina]

Day 10: Rodeiro to Lalín — 22km

We left the albergue in Rodeiro just after 7am and decided to swing by the famous bakery (Panadería Jesús, which bakes for the royal family, among others) just in case, even though it’s not supposed to open until 8:30am. And it was open! At least, the back rooms were open and they let us look around and buy a baguette. It was a very interesting scene as almost all the bread was loaded in crates, ready to go out for delivery.

View attachment 173264

After that little victory, we left Rodeiro in good spirits despite an overcast day and that inescapable feeling that the best of the Invierno is now behind us. Today’s stage was very rural and fairly pleasant, although sadly we did see a lot of animal exploitation in the hamlets (cows and pigs in very confined spaces). On a more positive note, there were some nice forest-river scenes throughout the stage, and a self-stamp service (and vending machine coffee) in A Eirexe.

View attachment 173265

We arrived in Lalín in time for lunch and are now resting at the albergue. We’re looking forward to visiting the pilgrims centre downstairs when it reopens later after siesta to get one of its famous stamps!

I enjoyed my last 2 days on the Invierno (A Laxe-Outiero-SdC), and I reckon you will too! There are some magical places…

 

[VNwalking]

Success! Yay!!

that inescapable feeling that the best of the Invierno is now behind us

Not quite. There's magic yet to come.

 

[Simperegrina]

 

[AlanSykes]

Not quite. There's magic yet to come

Oh yes, much magic to come - Taboarda's narrow mediaeval bridge over the Deza, worn by pilgrim steps for almost a millennium, the (possibly pre-conquista) relief of Samson and the lion on the nearby church of Santiago de Taboarda (with later vacas by the artist who worked at Diomondi)



and the serene beauty of the Pico Sacra, where the wicked Reina Lupa failed to divert Santiago's disciples from burying his bones.

 

[VNwalking]

Pico Sacra

So beautiful, to walk around it's base, with a morning fog cloaking the top from sight - except one wee window on the Santiago side, seen after passing it, looking back with wonder.

 

[peregrina2000]

and the serene beauty of the Pico Sacra,

Alan, I forget - have you walked up to the top? It’s so easy from the albergue in Outeiro, and only a little backtracking is required to get you back on the route in Lestedo. The legends of that place layered on an air of mystery, coupled with the views and the quiet solitude . I know @Wendy Werneth has to deal with plantar fasciitis, though, and it is almost all asphalt, so that may be a deal breaker for them.

 

[jungleboy]

I'm a day behind you. Start tomorrow (Thursday) . looking forward to hearing your experiences!

How are you going on the Invierno? Where are you now?

 

[billC]

Hi Nick. Thanks for the reach out. I’m practically in your footsteps. In Lalín now, my daughter and son think I have a crush on Jungleboy because I use your daily report during our evening debrief. As I lay in my bunk after a nice nap, you have inspired us to get the cool stamp at Daniel’s place. Finally, we had a great meal at Bodegon a Cunca. Hopefully catchup with you in Santiago.

 

[trecile]

Finally, we had a great meal at Bodegon a Cunca.

I had a very good lunch there on Tuesday - I actually found the Pilgrim Information Office because it was near the restaurant.

 

[Mycroft]

Did you ever try a night boot? That is what finally got rid of my PF after a year.

Wide toe box shoes!!

 

[jungleboy]

In Lalín now, my daughter and son think I have a crush on Jungleboy because I use your daily report during our evening debrief.

Love it! It might make @Wendy Werneth jealous though

Hopefully catchup with you in Santiago.

I’ll be there Monday and Tuesday so maybe we can find a time to meet up.

 

[jungleboy]

Day 11: Lalín to Dornelas — 28km

A late and short update today because, oh my goodness, we are in an albergue with a Spanish guy who is lovely but has talked to us non-stop for hours on end! (And is still talking to Wendy right now while I snuck away to write this.)

The exit from Lalín this morning next to a river and some old mills was a nice and unexpected way to start the day, so that was my favourite part of the stage. At A Laxe we merged with the Sanabrés and entered familiar territory from our camino two years ago that started with the CPI. The stage was long by our recent standards but flat and easy, and the sun came out in the afternoon to brighten up the scenery.



We’re happy to have skipped staying in Silleda (where we stayed last time) and Bandeira, which to me are uninteresting, modern towns, and to have continued to Casa Leiras in the countryside. As I mentioned in my planning thread, we stopped here for a morning soft drink two years ago and wanted to come back to spend the night the next time we were in the neighbourhood, and here we are!

But our plan to stay in Reina Lupa tomorrow has been thrown out the window as a group has booked out the entire place. We had planned two leisurely stages to Santiago, so now it looks like it will be the muni in Outeiro tomorrow, even though it’s only 12km from here.

 

[VNwalking]

But our plan to stay in Reina Lupa tomorrow has been thrown out the window as a group has booked out the entire place. We had planned two leisurely stages to Santiago, so now it looks like it will be the muni in Outeiro tomorrow, even though it’s only 12km from here.

 

[jungleboy]

Day 12: Dornelas to Outeiro — 12km

We wanted to go further today but with Reina Lupa booked out, Outeiro was pretty much the only economical option, as we didn’t want a long day to Santiago.

It rained lightly for most of the walk (from Dornelas to Ponte Ulla), which if nothing else was a good reminder that we’ve been pretty lucky with weather on this camino, as this was only the second time it has rained on us. At Ponte Ulla I took my only photo of the day of the pilgrim mural under a bridge.



We stayed in Outeiro two years ago on the Sanabrés and it’s a nicely situated albergue in the countryside, so it’s not a bad place to spend a lazy afternoon. There aren’t any restaurants or shops nearby though, so you need to bring food with you. I almost bought a bottle of wine at the Carrefour in Ponte Ulla 4km back and carried it here — maybe I should have!

 

[peregrina2000]

so it’s not a bad place to spend a lazy afternoon.

Well, if you’re looking for something to do, take a walk down the hill to this place:

Casa Beatnik Hotel

Nestled in Spain’s Rías Baixas wine region, Casa Beatnik Hotel is a new destination hotel created by Bonhomme, an award-winning design studio and hospitality group. Casa Beatnik Hotel’s maiden property, a Country House, offers guests seven acres of bespoke bohemian luxury, wellness retreats and insp

casabeatnik.com

It used to be a sedate, majestic old pazo, Pazo dos Galegos, but it was sold and the new owners have definitely changed the vibe. @wisepilgrim has stayed in one of their yurts and thought it was pretty cool.

 

[VNwalking]

I almost bought a bottle of wine at the Carrefour in Ponte Ulla 4km back and carried it here — maybe I should have!

Yeah, but then you'd have needed to lug it up the hill.

May you enjoy the lazy afternoon and have a very nice amble into Santiago tomorrow!

 

[Flog]

Ah, what a pity you couldn't stay at Reina Lupa, it's a lovely albergue and Carmiña fusses over pilgrims with such love. But you have a pleasant last day ahead of you..

 

[trecile]

Ah, what a pity you couldn't stay at Reina Lupa, it's a lovely albergue and Carmiña fusses over pilgrims with such love. But you have a pleasant last day ahead of you..

I was going to stay there on Thursday night and have a short day to Santiago, but two of my Camino friends that I met while I was on the Francés were leaving on Friday and wanted to get together with me before leaving, so I walked from Bandeira.

I messaged Carmiña two days prior to let her know that I didn't need my reservation. Then, on Thursday I stopped into her bar for a drink and a snack before the final 10 km before Santiago, and she said "eres Terri?" It was like she was waiting for me to stop in on my long day of walking! She was so kind, and I was sorry that I didn't get to stay there.

 

[Flog]

She's like a mother hen, kindness itself! When I came in cold and wet in late October she insisted on feeding me a big steaming bowl of caldo to get some heat in my bones before signing me in.

 

[jungleboy]

Something I forgot to mention was that as we passed two local women in the rain this morning, I said ‘Buenos días’ to them, and one of them replied, ‘De bueno, ¡no tiene nada!’

(Basically: ‘there’s nothing good about it!’).

 

[peregrina2000]

to have continued to Casa Leiras in the countryside. As I mentioned in my planning thread, we stopped here for a morning soft drink two years ago and wanted to come back to spend the night the next time we were in the neighbourhood, and here we are!

Just wondering how you enjoyed your stay in Dornelas. I only stopped for a cold drink, because my albergue days are now behind me, but I had such a nice chat with the owner, who told me all about how they are patching together a life in Spain. "Patching together" is probably not the right term, but they have been creative in finding ways to support themselves while running this lovely albergue, which certainly cannot be their primary income!

Did you have an Italian meal that lived up to your now high standards as an expat in Italia?

 

[jungleboy]

Just wondering how you enjoyed your stay in Dornelas.

We enjoyed it a lot, I recommend it and we’ll certainly stay there again on any future VdlP+ camino that we may or may not have pencilled in a few years from now! There are 10 beds (five bunks) and we were only five people so everyone got a bottom bunk.

Someone we saw today said the albergue in Bandeira was poor, so that’s another reason to continue to Dornelas.

Did you have an Italian meal that lived up to your now high standards as an expat in Italia?

I wouldn’t go quite that far (those standards are indeed high!) but it was a very nice communal dinner with our eclectic group that included two people without a word of Spanish and one without a word of anything but Spanish!

 

[Simperegrina]

Day 11: Lalín to Dornelas — 28km

A late and short update today because, oh my goodness, we are in an albergue with a Spanish guy who is lovely but has talked to us non-stop for hours on end! (And is still talking to Wendy right now while I snuck away to write this.)

The exit from Lalín this morning next to a river and some old mills was a nice and unexpected way to start the day, so that was my favourite part of the stage. At A Laxe we merged with the Sanabrés and entered familiar territory from our camino two years ago that started with the CPI. The stage was long by our recent standards but flat and easy, and the sun came out in the afternoon to brighten up the scenery.

View attachment 173415

We’re happy to have skipped staying in Silleda (where we stayed last time) and Bandeira, which to me are uninteresting, modern towns, and to have continued to Casa Leiras in the countryside. As I mentioned in my planning thread, we stopped here for a morning soft drink two years ago and wanted to come back to spend the night the next time we were in the neighbourhood, and here we are!

But our plan to stay in Reina Lupa tomorrow has been thrown out the window as a group has booked out the entire place. We had planned two leisurely stages to Santiago, so now it looks like it will be the muni in Outeiro tomorrow, even though it’s only 12km from here.

Yeah, but then you'd have needed to lug it up the hill.

May you enjoy the lazy afternoon and have a very nice amble into Santiago tomorrow!

In March, I decanted a can of shandy into one of my water bottles ahead of climbing up that hill to the albergue

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Has no one struggled on the long downhill on pavement on the steep 10% grade before arriving in Ponte Ulla besides me? I usually prefer the downhills, but this one kept going and going and going, like the Energizer Bunny. I thought I did fine, but arriving at our destination, walking from Silleda the 22km to Eiravedra where we stayed at the Residencia Victoria (which was awesome btw), my knee was wonky. I didn't realize how long that downhill
to Ponte Ulla was going to be and I walked it too fast without zigzagging. It thankfully healed itself at home about a week later.

 

[jungleboy]

Has no one struggled on the long downhill on pavement on the steep 10% grade before arriving in Ponte Ulla besides me?

I like downhills so I’d best not comment any more than that!

 

[Glenshiro]

FYI for those coming this way, it turns out after talking to them, they had wanted to stay near the medieval bridge at Pensión Pacita, but it was closed so they had to continue. Per Gronze, Pacita is the only accommodation on the camino between Quiroga and Pobra.

I've come late to this thread, but does this mean that Pension Pacita is closed,?

 

[El Cascayal]

Pensión Pacita is open.

Pensión Pacita - A Labrada | Pensión | Gronze.com

Información del Pensión Pensión Pacita, en A Labrada: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[jungleboy]

I've come late to this thread, but does this mean that Pension Pacita is closed,?

That’s what we were told six days ago, but we don’t know anything about the circumstances surrounding it. Best to contact them and ask.

 

[setmeravelles]

I've come late to this thread, but does this mean that Pension Pacita is closed,?

I hope it's just for well-deserved holiday or something. It was such a great place with such warm, caring people. I knew they were struggling financially though, so it wouldn't be a surprise. But I have had my fingers crossed for them.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

I have been taking screenshots of my guidebooks on my phone (starting with the back page). I then leave the book at home and delete the screenshots as I go along. It really doesn't take very long to do as the phone takes two pages at a time.

I'm sure deleting as you go lightens your load dear Chrissy!

 

[Theatregal]

Has no one struggled on the long downhill on pavement on the steep 10% grade before arriving in Ponte Ulla besides me?

I have, Chrissy!! Twice! It's an intense descent!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Day 11: Lalín to Dornelas — 28km

A late and short update today because, oh my goodness, we are in an albergue with a Spanish guy who is lovely but has talked to us non-stop for hours on end! (And is still talking to Wendy right now while I snuck away to write this.)

Wow...poor Wendy took one for the team there! Well, you multi-lingual people got what you deserved ...I say that with total admiration for any native English speakers who master another language...or languages!
Nick, I haven't commented 'til now (life is crazy busy these days) but of course I have been diligently following you, & as always, thoroughly enjoying your posts & magical photos.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I have, Chrissy!! Twice! It's an intense descent!

I'm glad to have had some company...just kidding!

 

[JWST]

Loving this thread, planning on being there in September, did SJPdP to Ponferrada last year, now to finish

 

[JWST]

Well, if you’re looking for something to do, take a walk down the hill to this place:

Casa Beatnik Hotel

Nestled in Spain’s Rías Baixas wine region, Casa Beatnik Hotel is a new destination hotel created by Bonhomme, an award-winning design studio and hospitality group. Casa Beatnik Hotel’s maiden property, a Country House, offers guests seven acres of bespoke bohemian luxury, wellness retreats and insp

casabeatnik.com

It used to be a sedate, majestic old pazo, Pazo dos Galegos, but it was sold and the new owners have definitely changed the vibe. @wisepilgrim has stayed in one of their yurts and thought it was pretty cool.

And only 160 euro/night for a yurt

 

[JWST]

And only 160 euro/night for a yurt

Could be an interesting dining experience though

 

[jungleboy]

Day 13: Outeiro to Santiago de Compostela — 16km

After yesterday’s rain, the camino god(s) smiled on us today and gave us a beautiful blue-sky day for a magical entry into Santiago.



We left early this morning and walked quickly, making only one stop for juice and pan con tomate at Reina Lupa / Bar Rosende. I really like the Invierno/Sanabrés entry to Santiago, as the city is hidden and you don’t reach the urban area until just 2.2km from the cathedral. I also like the Ermita de Santa Lucía and surroundings as a very peaceful place despite its proximity to the city.

At the cathedral, we saw some of our recent companions and met the whole family of our new pilgrim friend from Cáceres, Miguel Ángel. Then the group of 50 teenagers that we’ve seen a few times since Lalín, also from Cáceres, arrived and set off a party in the plaza. Our celebrations, on the other hand, were a little more low-key:



After getting our compostelas (amazingly quick these days), we managed to sneak in a nice lunch with @trecile to swap Invierno stories before she leaves later today.

And that’s it! Our camino is suddenly over and we both have other things to move on to quickly, as Wendy’s Galego course in Santiago starts on Wednesday, and the same day I fly back to Rome, then to Paris next week to work at the Olympics. But before all that, tomorrow we will hopefully record a podcast or two about the Invierno and I will also try to wrap up this thread with a summary in the next couple of days.

But now for some rest!

 

[VNwalking]

Has no one struggled on the long downhill on pavement on the steep 10% grade before arriving in Ponte Ulla besides me?

It wasn't fun for sure. I stopped at the ermita part way down to give my ankles a break.

we will hopefully record a podcast or two about the Invierno

Please make sure you highlight how challenging and remote it is.

 

[jungleboy]

Please make sure you highlight how challenging and remote it is.

Challenging in terms of the actual walking or the logistics or a combination or something else?

 

[VNwalking]

Challenging in terms of the actual walking or the logistics or a combination or something else?

I was making a bad joke, as if to say, "Shhhhhhh, let's keep this our little secret."
(That said, the Invierno is undeniably harder than the Francés on both those counts.)

 

[jungleboy]

I was making a bad joke, as if to say, "Shhhhhhh, let's keep this our little secret."
(That said, the Invierno is undeniably harder than the Francés on both those counts.)

Whoops, I missed that the first time!

 

[billC]

Nick, Congrats on another completed Camino. Really appreciate you sharing your experiences. I know it can’t always be easy after a long day. And I know I speak for many that it really helps and inspires us as we plan our own Caminos. Well done. I’ll look for the bandana bunch in Santiago tomorrow.! I’ll be arriving around noon.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Challenging in terms of the actual walking or the logistics or a combination or something else?

Everything!

 

[kateonthecamino]

Day 13: Outeiro to Santiago de Compostela — 16km

After yesterday’s rain, the camino god(s) smiled on us today and gave us a beautiful blue-sky day for a magical entry into Santiago.

View attachment 173538

We left early this morning and walked quickly, making only one stop for juice and pan con tomate at Reina Lupa / Bar Rosende. I really like the Invierno/Sanabrés entry to Santiago, as the city is hidden and you don’t reach the urban area until just 2.2km from the cathedral. I also like the Ermita de Santa Lucía and surroundings as a very peaceful place despite its proximity to the city.

At the cathedral, we saw some of our recent companions and met the whole family of our new pilgrim friend from Cáceres, Miguel Ángel. Then the group of 50 teenagers that we’ve seen a few times since Lalín, also from Cáceres, arrived and set off a party in the plaza. Our celebrations, on the other hand, were a little more low-key:

View attachment 173537

After getting our compostelas (amazingly quick these days), we managed to sneak in a nice lunch with @trecile to swap Invierno stories before she leaves later today.

And that’s it! Our camino is suddenly over and we both have other things to move on to quickly, as Wendy’s Galego course in Santiago starts on Wednesday, and the same day I fly back to Rome, then to Paris next week to work at the Olympics. But before all that, tomorrow we will hopefully record a podcast or two about the Invierno and I will also try to wrap up this thread with a summary in the next couple of days.

But now for some rest!

Congratulations!
And thank you so much for the updates, they're super helpful! I'm currently enjoying a glass of wine by the river in O Barco planning out tomorrow's walk. Absolutely loving the Invierno so far