Food on La Maseta beyond abysmal

[Paul288]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

 

[Corned Beef]

An interesting observation. Personally I enjoy the 'help' I get in losing some weight but agree that the correct nutrition is important if you intend to complete the whole Frances in one go.

What would you recommend those cooking for themselves should aim for - or seek out from the tienda along the way?

 

[dougfitz]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

I presume you are talking about the Meseta here in this.

If it was evident to you that you weren't getting sufficient, well balanced meals from albergues and other places you stayed, what did you do in response? There is no promise, on the camino or anywhere else, that your nutritional needs will be completely satisfied by the food made available in albergues, cafes and similar establishments. Other than in some limited circumstances like prisons, ships at sea and perhaps some remote mining sites, it would clearly be up to you to ensure that you satisfied yourself on this score. It doesn't seem to me anyone's responsibility but your own that your nutritional needs are satisfied. If that means supplementing what is being provided in albergues, cafes, etc by purchasing appropriate food supplies along the way, that is as much part of the camino journey as anything else.

The only person I would be disappointed in here is you. You claim to have the specialist knowledge to understand what your needs were, and where any shortfalls were present. If you did nothing about it, posting here to blame 'people in hospitality' doesn't seem to be a rational response.

 

[davejsy]

I mean, that will be an awful shame if that is all you remember of your Camino. I think everyone is free to eat where they choose though, and many places on the Meseta have different eating options at varying budgets, a bit like happens in real life. I don't recall one single bad meal on my Meseta (nearly all in Albergues) that would prompt me to such a post, maybe your expectations were too high, or maybe you're just having a bad day. Hopefully the rest of your Camino will be better if you are able to continue.

 

[J Willhaus]

I don't recall finding it difficult to find filling and nourishing food on this stretch, but I often cook for myself and others at albergues. Lentils, chickpeas, eggs, and cheese were usually available. I found fruit and vegetables in season also available.

A pilgrim meal was not usually my first choice, although a menu del dia in midafternoon was usually quite good followed by a light supper made in the albergue common kitchen.

I do also like bocadillos, but usually stop at the bakery to buy my own fresh bread and make my own along the way with butter, cheese, and ham. I am curious if you tried self catering or just ate at restaurants?

 

[Anhalter]

Hmmm. Weird.
While i am not a nutritionist or anything of the sort i travel to spain for some decades and do have a very healthy opinion about food.
Actually i was quite happy with what i found in the Meseta. Both times. Yes, due to the smaller size of the villages there is not as much choice as elsewhere and some days you might have to bite the bullet and go for pork with fries... but on most days i got pretty cheap, balanced and tasty meals. Actually the only place i did have some problems was in Reliegos, but even there is an albergue known for making decent dinner (in which i did not get a place unfortunately so we got what little the market had to offer and cooked).
Let's maybe put your experience down to bad luck?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

Whilst I personally found portion sizes (in all respects) on camino more than adequate I appreciate that I eat less than others.
I agree that the Spanish idea of breakfast is not adequate for myself, and I hate those plastic wrapped items. I eat pilgrims menus occasionally but much prefer the menu del dia, or exploring the local cuisine. Whilst not always on the menu in spite of my lousy Spanish I generally was able to obtain an excellent omelette and salad. (A simple smile and attempt to communicate was generally all it took; of course it may have helped that occasionally I helped clear the plates).

As others suggested I personally ensured that I always purchased other supplies. Yoghurt, yoghurt drinks, eggs, tuna/ chorizo, fresh fruit, carrots etc to snack on - the list goes on. Whilst it is true that some of the villages have limited or even zero shopping options it's not as if we are without warning. The responsibility is ours; the information readily available in this technological age.

As to opening times: you're in Spain, it's what the Spanish people do. With the exception of very highly touristic areas it's how it is in places like Greece too.
Remember: you are the visitor.

 

[LTfit]

I'm vegan so my protein source on the Camino is basically the same as that at home - chick peas and lentils. Add to that some vegetables and maybe a carb source such rice or pasta (which I usually don't eat since beans also are a source of carbs) and you have a well balanced meal. If you don't like what's offered cook yourself.

I don't expect restaurants to cater to my particular needs, especially on remote and solitary routes although I have been seeing lots of positive posts on our Vegetarians and Vegans on the Camino Facebook page about restaurants on the Francés and Portuguese routes. If a vegan can find nutritious food anyone else should be able to do so, just stay away from your standard pilgrim menu.

 

[DuncanG]

We had no problem on the Meseta when walking last October. We looked for Albergues with cooking facilities whenever possible and always found some food in whatever stores there were, even in tiny Calzadilla de los Hermanillos on an alternate route. But we had great meals in Rabé de las Calzadas at Albergue Liberanos Domine, Hontanas at Albergue Santa Brígada, Villamentero de Campos at Albergue Amanecer, Calzadilla de La Cueza at Alojamiento Los Canarios and the list goes on.
Sorry in your case that the food did not meet your expectations or you missed these wonderful albergues.

 

[trecile]

Calzadilla de La Cueza at Alojamiento Los Canarios and the list goes on.

I had the best pilgrim dinner at Los Canarios! Homemade gazpacho as a first course, and delicious roasted lemon chicken with roasted potatoes (no French fries!) with red pepper puree as the main course. Yummm!

 

[naplesdon]

Some of the top restaurants in Spain are located in town in the Meseta.

 

[Paul288]

Doug…I am talking about “availability” of nutritious food along the route, including supplementary to that available in albergues, restaurants, or otherwise…not an inability to look after myself, or a lack of money or other resources to buy or prepare food where there were options to do so.

I have traveled extensively in the world and have eaten better in third world countries.

You cannot buy or prepare what is not available.

I presume you are talking about the Meseta here in this.

If it was evident to you that you weren't getting sufficient, well balanced meals from albergues and other places you stayed, what did you do in response? There is no promise, on the camino or anywhere else, that your nutritional needs will be completely satisfied by the food made available in albergues, cafes and similar establishments. Other than in some limited circumstances like prisons, ships at sea and perhaps some remote mining sites, it would clearly be up to you to ensure that you satisfied yourself on this score. It doesn't seem to me anyone's responsibility but your own that your nutritional needs are satisfied. If that means supplementing what is being provided in albergues, cafes, etc by purchasing appropriate food supplies along the way, that is as much part of the camino journey as anything else.

The only person I would be disappointed in here is you. You claim to have the specialist knowledge to understand what your needs were, and where any shortfalls were present. If you did nothing about it, posting here to blame 'people in hospitality' doesn't seem to be a rational response.

 

[t2andreo]

I ALWAYS travel with powdered protein supplements. This tops my protein needs off every day. I usually manage to find enough protein on the local economy.

Generally, I start the day with a serving of flavored protein powder dissolved in water. I will even add a powdered coffee "single" packet for added flavor and the caffeine rush to get me started.

I recommend doing better research and planing ahead next time. You can pick up temperature stable, protein-rich foods in Carrion de los Condes, before heading out on the main part of the Meseta. I have bought pre-cooked ham and hard cheeses in the Dia supermarket there, and made a full "loaf" of ham and cheese sandwiches using whole wheat bread. That sufficed for a couple of days. I like ham and cheese sandwiches.

You can add canned fish, nuts, and other protein rich foods if your prefer.

IMHO, no one gets seriously malnourished or starves, without going out of their way to do so. Adapting to your surroundings and environment is the key concept here.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[Paul288]

By the looks of the comments here most of the respondents had a much better experience. I’m glad to hear that.
Unfortunately several people I spoke to along the route the last couple of weeks said the same as I have said here. So see what you think next time those of you comparing to an experience several years ago.

The route was also extremely busy…coming into October and most albergues in smaller towns full each day. The people working in places seemed exhausted and disinterested
and that was reflected in the food served in multiple places.

 

[Paul288]

I mean, that will be an awful shame if that is all you remember of your Camino. I think everyone is free to eat where they choose though, and many places on the Meseta have different eating options at varying budgets, a bit like happens in real life. I don't recall one single bad meal on my Meseta (nearly all in Albergues) that would prompt me to such a post, maybe your expectations were too high, or maybe you're just having a bad day. Hopefully the rest of your Camino will be better if you are able to continue.

Thanks! I had lots of other great experiences and have more Camino to do in the years ahead. The food is an important part of any travel experience though and it does take away from the overall experience in my opinion when the food is bad.

 

[Suzanne A]

My answer: supplement with nuts, hard boiled eggs and yogurt, signed a vegetarian

 

[Paul288]

I ALWAYS travel with powdered protein supplements. This tops my protein needs off every day. I usually manage to find enough protein on the local economy.

Generally, I start the day with a serving of flavored protein powder dissolved in water. I will even add a powdered coffee "single" packet for added flavor and the caffeine rush to get me started.

I recommend doing better research and planing ahead next time. You can pick up temperature stable, protein-rich foods in Carrion de los Condes, before heading out on the main part of the Meseta. I have bought pre-cooked ham and hard cheeses in the Dia supermarket there, and made a full "loaf" of ham and cheese sandwiches using whole wheat bread. That sufficed for a couple of days. I like ham and cheese sandwiches.

You can add canned fish, nuts, and other protein rich foods if your prefer.

IMHO, no one gets seriously malnourished or starves, without going out of their way to do so. Adapting to your surroundings and environment is the key concept here.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Protein bars or powder is a good strategy. I had some bars.
No, no one starves or gets seriously malnourished, but Spain is not a third world country yet I have eaten better in third world countries than on this section of the Camino.

 

[obinjatoo]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

Alrighty then. I dunno. Last time I checked, Spaniards didn't enter into the world to serve pilgrims. Always struck me as sort of a side gig. I found enough freshies to carry a few days and was grateful for ANYTHING I got to eat. Ate exactly 1 Pilgrim's dinner and that was enough for me. Just completed my 3rd walk to Santiago and found enough. It's only temporary. I'll be home soon to my first world country where I can eat whatever I want. Not THAT different from what I found in Spain. I eat simple and not so much. With lower expectations EVERYTHING is pretty good.

 

[Paul288]

An interesting observation. Personally I enjoy the 'help' I get in losing some weight but agree that the correct nutrition is important if you intend to complete the whole Frances in one go.

What would you recommend those cooking for themselves should aim for - or seek out from the tienda along the way?

Many people have made suggestions already. Adequate protein is important so I would bring protein bars, or buy eggs or nuts whenever you have a chance, although not all places had a kitchen I found.
As for weight loss….there is such an abundance of carbohydrates. The issue is less not enough food available, but too much garbage food.

 

[Paul288]

Alrighty then. I dunno. Last time I checked, Spaniards didn't enter into the world to serve pilgrims. Always struck me as sort of a side gig. I found enough freshies to carry a few days and was grateful for ANYTHING I got to eat. Ate exactly 1 Pilgrim's dinner and that was enough for me. Just completed my 3rd walk to Santiago and found enough. It's only temporary. I'll be home soon to my first world country where I can eat whatever I want. Not THAT different from what I found in Spain. I eat simple and not so much. With lower expectations EVERYTHING is pretty good.

Many Spanish people make a living off the Camino. Glad you had a good experience overall. I did too…except for the food.

 

[Jarrad]

I don't recall the meseta specifically being a challenge, but it has been a while. I recall my body's reaction to the first week on the CdF and my craving for protein. The nuts, beans and cheese were not doing it for me. I think the trick is not to depend on just the pilgrim's menu. I did find protein-rich meals to meet my needs and they were such a morale boost for me. I can still taste the braised cow tongue I had with a rich, red Rioja wine (tongue is not something I'd not normally order, much less see on the menu in the US and my goodness was it delectable!). There was the turkey leg and thigh covered in a silky, rich gravy in Puenta la Reina. And then the massive paella in Los Arcos, full of shrimp and chicken. OK, now I need to go get an early lunch!

 

[David Tallan]

You seem to have had some terrible luck. I've never had such an issue finding protein on the meseta: whether it was in tortilla for breakfast, tuna and eggs on a mixed salad in the first course of a menu del dia, or as meat or fish or poultry in the second course of a menu del dia. In addition, I didn't find the grocery stores or supermarkets completely devoid of protein (sausages of different kinds, cheese, canned fish, etc.) to the point that I could not supply my own, as you seem to have found. It really is strange. But I can't dispute your personal experience. All I can say is that mine differed.

 

[K_Lynn]

I imagine that at most albergues that provide meals make simple dishes because they are feeding a large amount of people in one go. Any restaurant that offers a pilgrim meal, will also have a full menu to choose from. I stopped in whatever grocery store was available and picked up bananas, nuts, cheese and other snacks I wanted for the next day when I got into town.

The ensalata mixta is always a good option (if you eat fish and eggs) for lunch. Many places had lentil soups. Bacon and eggs were offered on lunch menus as well.

I'm allergic to garlic, so I was often challenged at meal times, but somehow I survived. I made sure that I had my supply of "emergency rations" so that I could shove calories into my face when I wanted or needed.

I'm sorry you feel that your dietary needs were not being met. Perhaps next time order two main courses if one is not large enough.

 

[HBS60]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

I agree 100% with you.

My food experience in my recent Camino was very stressful and frustrating. Besides the limited choices, the unpredictable meal times made it worse. I never knew what would be available, or when. Every town seemed to be different, making it hard to plan when bars/stores would be closed at different times.

Several responses here seem dismissive (not necessarily intentionally or maliciously) but I think you raise a very valid concern that deserves to be addressed. I do recognize that many of these towns seemed to be struggling, so I would think more in terms of how can these towns be helped?

 

[Molly Cassidy]

I suppose it depends what you're used to. I don't think you necessarily need huge amounts of protein, but if that's what you're used to it might be a problem. The times you want to eat may not be the times Spanish people eat. It would be better to adjust your eating pattern to have the menu del dia as a main meal then eat less in the evening.

In general, I didn't find Spanish food lacking in protein, but pilgrim menus will be budget options with less expensive foods.

 

[markie6]

Can't say I have ever felt disappointed in my dinner while on camino. Usually I am very hungry and I enjoy what I am given. It's cheaper and perhaps different to what I am used to back home, I have always walked in busy times towards start of Sept and into October

I didn't have many expectations though. You often get what you pay for, happily I have always felt ok with that. I have always thought it was me who needed to adapt to the Camino and not the other way round

Your observations are of course your own, for my part I have only ever had cause to to moan about the other pilgrims and very rarely those working to make my Camino a great experience. YMMV of course

 

[SabsP]

Did you visit any supermercado? Surely you noticed the fresh counter of fruit and veg?
Ok, only Burgos and Leon have the big Mercadona but smaller towns on the Meseta have supermarkets like Lupa ( Carrion de los Condes ) or Proxim ( Castrojeriz ) or Casa Ruiz ( Fromista ).

Tus Vecinos de Confianza en Cantabria, Castilla y León y La Rioja

Somos tus Vecinos de Confianza y así queremos que lo sientas cada vez que visites cualquiera de nuestros supermercados ubicados en Cantabria, Castilla y León y La Rioja.

www.lupa.com

Edit: the selection from Eroski.

Vegetables and leafy vegetables

Buy Vegetables and leafy vegetables at the Eroski online supermarket and get top quality at the best price

supermercado.eroski.es

 

[AnneO]

I admit I am not a picky eater, but I didn’t find the food on the Meseta to be any worse than elsewhere on the Camino. One of my best meals of the entire Camino was a mushroom pasta dish at Albergue La Morena in Ledigos.

I think saying the food in any part of Spain is worse than a third-world country is utterly ridiculous. It is OK to not like the food you find along the way as we all have different preferences and dietary needs, but no one is going hungry on the Camino unless they choose to do so. I from time to time felt bored with the lack of variety in Pilgrim menus, but I solved that by choosing other things. There is plenty of food to be had, unlike in some third-world countries where people are literally starving from lack of food.

 

[domigee]

Doug…I am talking about “availability” of nutritious food along the route, including supplementary to that available in albergues, restaurants, or otherwise…not an inability to look after myself, or a lack of money or other resources to buy or prepare food where there were options to do so.

I have traveled extensively in the world and have eaten better in third world countries.

You cannot buy or prepare what is not available.

I really don't understand what you're on about..

 

[SabsP]

I agree 100% with you.

My food experience in my recent Camino was very stressful and frustrating. Besides the limited choices, the unpredictable meal times made it worse. I never knew what would be available, or when. Every town seemed to be different, making it hard to plan when bars/stores would be closed at different times.

Several responses here seem dismissive (not necessarily intentionally or maliciously) but I think you raise a very valid concern that deserves to be addressed. I do recognize that many of these towns seemed to be struggling, so I would think more in terms of how can these towns be helped?

Schedule your walking hours around the menu del dia ( always follow the locals ) and for a couple of euros more you will have decent and nutricous food. With other words : stay away from the pilgrim's menu or the bocadillos.
Really easy solution.