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LIVE from the Camino Camino Maltes

ShoshTrvls

Walking in Bits and Pieces
Time of past OR future Camino
Next: Maltes 2024; Kumano Kodo & Frances 2025
Last Christmas I was on the Camino Portugues and this Christmas I am on the Camino Maltes. How did this come to be?

Rewind a month or two ago, my kid and I always travel over the holidays and heard wonderful things about walking in Malta, and Malta in general. And the climate seemed right - that is, we would be leaving cold and snowy Pennsylvania for someplace a bit warmer. Plane tickets booked.

And then, while researching walking paths I stumbled upon a relatively newly-approved route, the Camino Maltes, which starts on Malta and then continues on through Sicily, Sardinia and Spain. And who am I to resist the lure of the Camino?

Some more research connected me with James, who is in all respects the keeper of the Camino Maltes in Malta. Yesterday he met us in Valletta and provided us not only with our credentials, but also a fascinating impromptu mini tour of Valletta. The man is all things charming and informative with an undeniable love for his country.

Since the Maltes section is relatively short, 30km or so, originally we were going to do it in one day, December 28. But when we found ourselves on Christmas Day in Rabat, the starting point of the Maltes, with several hours left in the day (having done a 10 mile spectacular walk along the Victoria and Dwejra Lines, which I will eventually post on the “where did you walk locally” thread), we decided to start our Camino today instead.

Rabat sits high on a hill, overlooking almost all of Malta. Starting at St. Paul’s Catacombs (closed, as most everything obviously was) we followed the short path James provided to Mdina, which is exactly what its name describes - narrow streets of stone, shops and restaurants, and plenty of churches along the way. And while the shops were closed, the place was surprisingly lively with families and visitors alike walking the streets, eating gelato (very good gelato) and generally enjoying the good weather and the holiday. Very different than the Camino Portugues on Christmas Day.

From Mdina it is all downhill, literally. We managed to get about the first 8 km or so done, walking on small country roads between fields and towns, through Zebbug and ending the day in Siggiewi. Definitely a pleasant path, and one we are looking forward to finishing in a few days.

A couple of notes -
*The path is fairly well marked outside of towns, but inside them it is not - my understanding is that permission to post signs is difficult to get.
*No mileage markers! This is either a positive or negative, depending on your personality.
*Stamps are hard to come by - we got only one today.
*This was almost all paved roads, which was admittedly hard on my old knees and feet.
*Much of the route follows the Malta Heritage Trail which provides the benefit of explanatory signage at places of interest.

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A selection of Camino Jewellery
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Last Christmas I was on the Camino Portugues and this Christmas I am on the Camino Maltes. How did this come to be?

Rewind a month or two ago, my kid and I always travel over the holidays and heard wonderful things about walking in Malta, and Malta in general. And the climate seemed right - that is, we would be leaving cold and snowy Pennsylvania for someplace a bit warmer. Plane tickets booked.

And then, while researching walking paths I stumbled upon a relatively newly-approved route, the Camino Maltes, which starts on Malta and then continues on through Sicily, Sardinia and Spain. And who am I to resist the lure of the Camino?

Some more research connected me with James, who is in all respects the keeper of the Camino Maltes in Malta. Yesterday he met us in Valletta and provided us not only with our credentials, but also a fascinating impromptu mini tour of Valletta. The man is all things charming and informative with an undeniable love for his country.

Since the Maltes section is relatively short, 30km or so, originally we were going to do it in one day, December 28. But when we found ourselves on Christmas Day in Rabat, the starting point of the Maltes, with several hours left in the day (having done a 10 mile spectacular walk along the Victoria and Dwejra Lines, which I will eventually post on the “where did you walk locally” thread), we decided to start our Camino today instead.

Rabat sits high on a hill, overlooking almost all of Malta. Starting at St. Paul’s Catacombs (closed, as most everything obviously was) we followed the short path James provided to Mdina, which is exactly what its name describes - narrow streets of stone, shops and restaurants, and plenty of churches along the way. And while the shops were closed, the place was surprisingly lively with families and visitors alike walking the streets, eating gelato (very good gelato) and generally enjoying the good weather and the holiday. Very different than the Camino Portugues on Christmas Day.

From Mdina it is all downhill, literally. We managed to get about the first 8 km or so done, walking on small country roads between fields and towns, through Zebbug and ending the day in Siggiewi. Definitely a pleasant path, and one we are looking forward to finishing in a few days.

A couple of notes -
*The path is fairly well marked outside of towns, but inside them it is not - my understanding is that permission to post signs is difficult to get.
*No mileage markers! This is either a positive or negative, depending on your personality.
*Stamps are hard to come by - we got only one today.
*This was almost all paved roads, which was admittedly hard on my old knees and feet.
*Much of the route follows the Malta Heritage Trail which provides the benefit of explanatory signage at places of interest.

View attachment 182801
Thanks for sharing this
 
Thanks for this ... I spent a year in Malta years ago and you description brought back memories.

Caminos seem to be popping up all over world these days. No surprise ... imitation is the best form of flattery, and is inspired by success.

The more the merrier, but for me the original and best will always be the magical CF, the hope of the world, for me anyway.
 
Spent time wandering Malta years ago. The public transport was old buses, reminded me of the old cars in Cuba.
For the C. Maltes how do you get to Sicily;I would opt for a ferry if there is one?
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Spent time wandering Malta years ago. The public transport was old buses, reminded me of the old cars in Cuba.
For the C. Maltes how do you get to Sicily;I would opt for a ferry if there is one?
The buses are all new!

Yes, there is a ferry from Valletta to Sicily, very easy to make that trip - less than 2 hours and it runs several times a day.

To get to Sardinia from Sicily, there is also a ferry but it only goes once a week and it is 13 hours. Same for Sardinia to Spain - one ferry once a week to Barcelona and it takes over 12 hours.
 
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Thanks for posting this, love to hear about the next two days walking.
I plan to visit Malta and this gives me a reason to to do another Camino as I told myself this year was my last. Oh well.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.

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Wonderful. I've been re-interested in Malta ever since learning of this camino. Great photos.
 
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
To get to Sardinia from Sicily, there is also a ferry but it only goes once a week and it is 13 hours. Same for Sardinia to Spain - one ferry once a week to Barcelona and it takes over 12 hours.
Great Information about a new route.! The Sardinia part sounds fun!.
And Thanks especially for the information about the ferries. I'll be in southern Italy and was just trying to figure out how I would make my way over to Spain. I hate flying, so the ferries seem like a fun option. And I'll get to see Sardinia a bit.
 
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Day 2/Last Day on the Malta segment of the Camino Maltes

We picked up the Camino exactly where we left it - at the only place we got a stamp the entire walk, Papa’s Pizzeria. Again, everything was closed today - shops, restaurants, small chapels and even most of the larger churches. I’m not sure why this was - it was Saturday, not a holiday that I’m aware of, and it wasn’t just missing opening times.

That being said, for the most part it was a lovely 27km-ish walk. The first 2/3 or so were through farmland - the fertility of the soil here is astounding and there are small plots everywhere. The paths were mostly in between these plots, for walkers and tractors but not cars. The towns themselves were quite nice, although not nearly as rustic as the tiny villages of Galicia. The last 1/3 was more urban with each town running right into the other. Still, walking from church plaza to church plaza on smaller streets was a nice way to see the local side of the island.

My thoughts as I walked today centered mostly on “What makes a walk a Camino? Does this qualify (in my mind)?”

-An officially sanctioned path to SdC? Check
-A path that takes you from town to town and church to church? Check
-Time to give yourself over to your thoughts? Check
-A tedious segment along the boundary of an airport? Check 😉

-A community of Camino walkers? Well, except for James, no. Many of the paths we walked on had locals out for a stroll, or taking their dogs for a walk. And we did chat with a few, but there were no other distance walkers, no “Buen Camino!” and indeed, it was difficult to get even a nod of the head from the residents.

But this Camino has potential, because this country is magnificent and a worthy starting point for a Camino. And towns are close enough together to be thought of as “well-supported” - at least whenever things are open. If I were coming to Malta for just a few days, there are other walks that are far more beautiful and challenging. But if you have more than 3 days, or are a dedicated collector of caminos, it is definitely worthwhile. And maybe one day it will be more popular - as long as it doesn’t become too popular!

By the way, James provided a Google map of the route, and gave me a list of places that stamped credentials (ha!). The Camino website has a list of churches/sights with descriptions. I put them all together in one Google map - route, highlights, stamps. If anyone is interested I will gladly share it.
 

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Looks like you had fun! Malta looks great and the route through Sicily or Sardinia and then taking a ferry to mainland Spain sounds fascinating.

For other interested parties, here's a link to the Camino Malta website. Although the links to the maps except for the Malta portion didn't work for me. So it's unclear the specifics of the route in Sicily and Sardinia.

 

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