LIVE from the Camino Chrissy on the Camino Sanabrés

[Camino Chrissy]

After a smooth and uneventful flight from Chicago to Madrid on Iberia, the last three days we have been doing some sightseeing in Salamanca and Zamora, and our days have been sunny, a little cool and not a cloud in the sky.

We took the train from Madrid to Salamanca and its historical area is really lovely. Hotel San Palo was right in the midst and we had beautiful views of the cathedral out our windows. We enjoyed lunch on the huge Plaza Mayor and probably our favorite standout thing to do was climbing the Scali Coeli Tower with viewing platforms of the city all around. Directly across on one side at eye level were stork nests with the parents and babies...so cute.
The Salamanca cathedral is huge and the tour was excellent with an audio guide. I am always impressed with the hand carved wooden choir stalls and the beautiful organs above. This one had nearly 100 seats on two levels.
I was glad for the tip from a forum member to go to the Art Nouveau Museum as it was so interesting. The Art Deco period in the early 1900's has its own special "look" and the unique museum had many incredible pieces on display.

Zamora is a much smaller city, but is not lacking for things to do and on this Monday seemed to have fewer tourists. The grounds and parklike setting around the exterior of the old castle made for some great photos; unfortunately the interior is closed on Mondays. We did a tour of the Zamora cathedral nearby and got my first proper looking pilgrim sello.
We met a gal from Amsterdam who was walking the Sanabres to Santiago while her husband rides his bicycle south on the VdlP.

Tomorrow morning we leave, taking an hour+ bus ride to be dropped off two miles from Rionegro del Puente, where we will stay at the albergue in town and hopefully have dinner at Me Gusto Comer in the evening. Many forum members have mentioned to me to be sure not to miss the incredible experience.
We will officially begin walking the next morning.
Random photos...

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Great start Chrissy!
Now you have to switch modes from tourist 🎟 to the serious business of walking
Enjoy, stay safe & can't wait for your updates.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, You two.
May it be a joy. (It sounds like you've had a great start!)

 

[mspath]

Thanks for sharing your journey ; looking forward to reading/seeing each new day's events as you walk along.

Carpe diem and in the truest sense, Ultreia!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 1-
After a quick breakfast of a cafe con leche and a tapas that caught my eye at the counter because it had avocado and shrimp on it, we headed for the bus station. After a 1.5 hour bus ride from Zamora, we walked the remaining two miles to Rionegro del Puente on the Camino path. There were lovely wildflowers to enjoy much of the way on this crisp, sunny day in addition to hearing cuckoo birds



We enjoyed a fantastic 4 course gourmet meal at Me Gusto Comer; recommended by several forum members and it did not disappoint. Photo is the 1st course.


The albergue was exceptional, and looked quite new with tasteful furnishings and cooking and laundry facilities. There were only eight of us in the 20+ bed dorms in two floors.


Later in the afternoon, we walked around for awhile and I was intrigued by these stone stairs that went up to the bells on top of what was left of an old crumbling church with a stork's nest on top...so I climbed up, picking my way to avoid the plants as the steps seemed in good shape.




In addition, the town is situated on a pretty little river and we saw two fly fisherman, hoping for success.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Love your curious nature Chrissy ; those stairs were begging to be climbed especially with the provision of a sturdy handrail for reassurance!

 

[CarolamS]

Buen Camino Chrissy. I'm enjoying your reports. I'm hoping to walk the Sanabres this autumn.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.





We had pre-arranged lodging to stay at Casa Azul; a newly remodeled small one bedroom house and we had it all to ourselves. The owner drove us to a restaurant just a couple of miles away for dinner, which was a nice gesture as there is nowhere to eat. We had another Pilgrim from Germany eating with us and she spoke good English, which made for nice conversation.


We have a short day tomorrow of 16k because we sometimes break up long stages shown on Gronze.

 

[VNwalking]

Wonderful! So good to see, Chris...buen camino!

 

[Peregrinopaul]

Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.
Gronze.

There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.

We are staying in Puebla de Sanabria for two nights and Requejo is the following night so I will watch for it. Thanks for the info, Paul.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3-
This shorter day of 15.4k going from Entrepenas to Pueblo de Sanabria seemed to take longer than it should have; mostly because I stopped often to take many pictures. For me, it is one of the joys of walking Caminos...the slow walk and seeing new sights unfolding step by step.
Speaking of steps, we had a few stretches of watery mud and searched for ways to keep our shoes dry, with little success.
We only saw five pilgrims today, and all of them passed us up; no surprise. We did have a conversation with a gal from Finland for awhile as she knew some English.


Eventually the terrain became hillier and more colorful as we reached a higher elevation.
The day started cloudy, but ended with lots of sunshine halfway through the day.



We saw our first cows today and watched as their owner parked his vehicle by us, stepped out and called them from the field over to him. The cows started heading over to him, and they kept coming and coming, forming a processional line. It was entertaining to watch and I speculated it to be nearly a hundred cows!


A couple of photos from the villages we walk through.


We have two nights here and plan to take a tour of the castle tomorrow. We are staying in the historic area and hope to find a few other things to do.

 

[DenWhite]

A wonderful Camino so far with the bonus of spring colour. Our inspiration is gaining momentum for commencing from Porto tomorrow morning.
You Camino Provides patch is still with us from 2018!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4-
Today was a tourist/rest day in Pueblo de Sanabria. I'm glad we took some forum advice to allow the extra day. We had a bit of sunshine the first half of the day for visiting the castle, which was extremely nice and interesting, with some great views and a small museum.



Castle museum...


We later walked around the pretty little residential streets in the historic area...



Tomorrow we have a short day to Requejo of about 12k...works for me!

 

[DenWhite]

Agree with taking time to soak it all in if time allows. We have reduced our average distance on our Camino Porto starting today to 16ks, with 22.5 the longest and a 10k snuck in for good leisure. Shorter routes allows the luxury.

 

[ginniek]

Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.
View attachment 168617
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We had pre-arranged lodging to stay at Casa Azul; a newly remodeled small one bedroom house and we had it all to ourselves. The owner drove us to a restaurant just a couple of miles away for dinner, which was a nice gesture as there is nowhere to eat. We had another Pilgrim from Germany eating with us and she spoke good English, which made for nice conversation.
View attachment 168628

We have a short day tomorrow of 16k because we sometimes break up long stages shown on Gronze.

So pleasant to read the account of someone taking it relatively easy and truly enjoying the sights. Buen provecho.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 5-
This morning we left the wonderful Hostel Carlos V in Pueblo de Sanabres where we spent two nights. It had rained overnight and was quite chilly and started sprinkling on and off. We had on our Frogg Togg rain jackets and also carry umbrellas. I had on my buff, a warm beanie, and fleece gloves, in addition to all three of my wicking layers. I decided not to wear my down puffy in case it made me too hot.

The walk was really great and had a nice variety of landscape. A short stretch along a little used road had mountains straight ahead and a few peaks had snow as we walked towards Requejo. I think we are headed that way uphill starting tomorrow.




The day became colder rather than warming up like it sometimes does. I would be miserable on the Sanabres without my "tried and true" layering system, so I did quite well. A variety of town photos in Requejo.





The majority of our lodging has been prebooked in Hostels and small hotels, but tonight we are staying in the municipal albergue with six others and it is quite chilly. Thankfully there are blankets which will help. The 20 beds all have the top bunks with no "fences" whatsoever on the sides for safety; there recently was a thread started discussing this very thing.

There usually is nowhere to stop for food, coffee, or to take a break, so carrying enough provisions is important. So far we are only filling our water bottles a little over half full since it has not really been warm yet, but I'm sure that will change eventually.

Tonight we will walk the half mile to the "Tu Casa" restaurant, where they not only have a complete inexpensive pilgrim meal, but other options that look appealing; it will be a hard decision to decide.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.

Paul, I was so disappointed to not take the turn off at Terroso today to see the church, but the cold day with intermittent drizzle and some muddy spots had me focused on getting to the albergue. There are only six of us here tonight.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 6-
It was rather cold this morning when we checked out of the albergue in Requejo at 8:30am, so I layered and wore my puffy jacket. It was suggested we take the road at first instead of the Camino due to rain overnight with muddy trails in the low valley. I am very impressed with the nice N525 because there was no traffic since the interstate A52 was built nearly paralleling it. We stayed on the road, crossing its bridge and 345 meter tunnel before later joined up with the Camino path. Only one pilgrim passed us today; our new friend from dinner; Pete from Holland.



After entering the adorable village of Acibros with its lovely renovations of homes, church and ancient grain grinding stones, including new slate roofs, we entered the Camino nature path again. It was gorgeous with heavy bright green moss on old stone fences, and large soft lichen growing on humongous twisted tree trunks, reminding me of a fairytale Hobbit forest. I liked these colorful bee hive houses amongst the green and brown.




We reached Lubien about 4k later, and it was a larger town going through many similar very attractive renovations. I have a little theory about all of this renovation work going on in the two villages. The newly completed AVE train goes in the middle between the two and I speculate funds were possibly allocated to improve these villages on either side of the tracks.





We have settled in our room at Casa Cesar and had calamari and homemade croquettes for a quick dinner at the nearby restaurant.

 

[VNwalking]

Beautiful, just beautiful.
Thanks for the words and photos, Chris. For some reason I especially like the one of the beehives.
Buen camino!

 

[gns]

Day 6-
It was rather cold this morning when we checked out of the albergue in Requejo at 8:30am, so I layered and wore my puffy jacket. It was suggested we take the road at first instead of the Camino due to rain overnight with muddy trails in the low valley. I am very impressed with the nice N525 because there was no traffic since the interstate A52 was built nearly paralleling it. We stayed on the road, crossing its bridge and 345 meter tunnel before later joined up with the Camino path. Only one pilgrim passed us today; our new friend from dinner; Pete from Holland.
View attachment 168986
View attachment 168987

After entering the adorable village of Acibros with its lovely renovations of homes, church and ancient grain grinding stones, including new slate roofs, we entered the Camino nature path again. It was gorgeous with heavy bright green moss on old stone fences, and large soft lichen growing on humongous twisted tree trunks, reminding me of a fairytale Hobbit forest. I liked these colorful bee hive houses amongst the green and brown.
View attachment 168988View attachment 168989
View attachment 168990
View attachment 168991

We reached Lubien about 4k later, and it was a larger town going through many similar very attractive renovations. I have a little theory about all of this renovation work going on in the two villages. The newly completed AVE train goes in the middle between the two and I speculate funds were possibly allocated to improve these villages on either side of the tracks.
View attachment 168992
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We have settled in our room at Casa Cesar and had calamari and homemade croquettes for a quick dinner at the nearby restaurant.

This brings back happy memories of my first Camino. On the advice of locals we walked on the road in the snow (it was April then as well) before it turned to sunshine on the other side of the tunnel.

Glad you are enjoying it.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 7-
This was a very long walking day for us as 24k from Lubien to A Gudina was in the mountains with quite a few ups and downs. We literally walked for ten solid hours, minus a quick lunch break and a zillion pictures due to the absolutely stunning scenery that unfolded as the day progressed. We only had one couple pass all day, and I think, once again, that any walkers were encouraged to take the N525 road. I am so glad we did not do that, although nearly the first third of the route was a continuous uphill slog on wet creek beds full of mud and all sizes of rocks. For me, it was quite a brutal ascent as I envisioned a fall that might end my Camino. I was definitely watching each step and was very slow.



Our weather was sunny and perfect temps for walking, and thankfully the rest of the day was dry underfoot, which helped navigating the ever changing terrain. We saw no wildlife of any kind, but heard plenty of songbirds and cuckoo's.



After that, the trail quality improved dramatically as it leveled out as we passed over to Galicia. What a relief, and as more time passed the trail became even more beautiful with huge boulders strewn around amongst the flowering broom.

 

[CarolamS]

It's looking like a truly lovely Camino. Thanks for your reports and photos I'm really enjoying following your progress Chrissy.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 8-
We walked from A Gudina to Campobecerros today, a total of 21k. It is supposed to be one of THE most beautiful stages on the Sanabres, and after such a gorgeous day yesterday, I was looking forward to this stage. Unfortunately we woke up to cold, fog and intermittent mist and light rain. Oh yes, we had some wind at times, too. I had forgotten we had crossed over and entered Galicia yesterday, but Galicia didn't let us forget!
Two tour groups of about eight to ten walkers in each passed us up early on wearing day packs, but after that we saw no one else the rest of the way.

The good news is that the whole trail snaked back and forth along a small, paved mountain road with no traffic and few ascents and descents. I found it to be the absolutely perfect surface to be walking in the rain and our dirty shoes were even washed clean.
We kept dry and "fairly warm" except for our fleece gloves that eventually got wet and it became difficult to keep our hands warm after six hours of walking. The temp hovered between 48 and 54°F the whole time. We had no opportunity to stop and eat the lunch we'd brought, nor to stop at a cafe/bar for a break.

We could barely see anything the whole way, which made me thankful for the sunshine and beauty of yesterday. Finally about an hour before we arrived at Casa Nunez (thanks to @peragrina2000 calling in a reservation for me), some of the fog and rain lifted, so I was able to take several pictures with my wrinkled, numb fingers.


The beautiful reservoir peeked out.



I will mention that every mojone along the Sanabres has been in pristine condition with absolutely no graffiti whatsoever; possibly because this more remote area draws mature, dedicated walkers in general.
(Our destination of Campobecerros in the background.)


We finished our walk with a cafe con leche to warm us up and much later a nice meal of homemade soup, beef stew, potatoes, vino tinto, and chocolate ice cream cones.

 

[DenWhite]

Similar conditions to the Porto Central Rates to Bercelhos yesterday but the rain was much heavier with no wind. The photos you got highlight the magic.

 

[Dani7]

Your pictures are stunning. You have a natural talent there. Thanks for sharing your daily experiences here with us. Burn Camino Chrissy.

PS now I want to do the Sanabres as well. Camino list is getting long

 

[peregrina2000]

Finally about an hour before we arrived at Casa Nunez (thanks to @peragrina2000 calling in a reservation for me),

I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?

I haven’t been following your Camino since I’m on the Invierno right now, but a quick skim through the posts and beautiful pictures show that you’re having a wonderful camino.

I’m in Galicia now too (leaving Quiroga today), and it looks like we will have enough rain for the next week to keep us good and wet every day!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?

Well, you get what you pay for. At 35 euros for a private twin room and bathroom, I'll not complain, but since you asked, it was not the cleanest; a bit grungy. I checked for bedbugs and found no signs. The water was very hot and we put our washed socks and shoes on the wall heaters, which were warmer and stayed on longer than most places, and were dry this morning...apparently only to get wet again today. Most importantly, the sheets were clean with warm blankets.

I'm not sure where else we could have stayed in this much needed stopping point, but I was glad to have a place to lay my head. I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.
Dinner was a full Pilgrim meal for 12 euro. The bar was quirky with interesting tables and chairs and local men were enjoying each other's company. The language seemed a bit different; possibly Galician dialect? I had to use Google translate, but she and I stumbled through.

 

[jungleboy]

I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.

Turning on the charm — love it!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.

 

[Scott...O]

I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.

Given the current exchange rates, one possibility is that the host keyed in a charge of EU25 and not EU35 by mistake.

 

[J Willhaus]

I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.

Maybe you got the pilgrim discount?

 

[VNwalking]

. I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.

Kindness always spreads...wonderful, Chris.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 9-
We went from Campobecerros to Laza today. It was a shorter day at 14.4k and still kind of coldish, but intermittent light rain would come and go with periods of sunshine to warm us up. Best of all, no fog got in the way of looking around and taking pictures, so I was happy. Once again, the path was a narrow untraveled road and the majority was a gradual downhill, snaking around the mountainsides. Two groups of speeding bikers passed us by, probably having fun on Spain's May 1st holiday. In addition, about five other walkers passed us by today.







We were not sure we would not find a spot to eat our lunch in the rain, but at about the right time we stumbled on this "hippie" type pilgrim respite; a donativo snack spot with a covered roof and chairs...it even had a cute sello stamp. No one was around, but we made our sandwiches and added a piece of lemon cake and a banana from the little stash of items offered...yes, we put in a few euros in the box and signed the "guest book".


(Continued)...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 9- (part 2)
We walked through a couple of very small villages and I am always intrigued by quirky, stone properties in ruins through the passing of time and neglect.


We had a couple of nice views of the new AVE train bridge and even saw a train going past coming out of the tunnel..



Last but not least, I also "have a thing" for rocks and today I have been loving the bluestone and shale. Here are a few photos of little drainages along the side of the road that intrigued me with their "design".

 

[VNwalking]

Really loving your words and images, Chris.
It looks gorgeous.

Last but not least, I also "have a thing" for rocks and today I have been loving the bluestone and shale.

Ditto. Fossils?
(Here you go. Too much information, but you're on this gorgeous geological map:

MapasIGME - Spanish Geological Survey maps: MAGNA 50 - Sheet number 265 (LAZA)

(One map east of this one - that you just walked over on the way from Puebla de Sanabria - had some eye-wateringly old granite....)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Really loving your words and images, Chris.
It looks gorgeous.


Ditto. Fossils?
(Here you go. Too much information, but you're on this gorgeous geological map:

MapasIGME - Spanish Geological Survey maps: MAGNA 50 - Sheet number 265 (LAZA)

(One map east of this one - that you just walked over on the way from Puebla de Sanabria - had some eye-wateringly old granite....)

Thanks, @VNwalking, i'm glad you are liking my write-ups on the Sanabres.
That link looks very interesting, but probably think I would fail a test.

 

[VNwalking]

That link looks very interesting, but probably think I would fail a test

Well, yeah. Me too. But it's fun to explore it anyway. I just discovered DeepL can translate geological nomenclature!

 

[JillGat]

There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.
View attachment 168636

It is a sweet, isolated little church. We climbed the steps and rang the bell.

Chrissy, our first week and a half from Puebla de Sanabria was very warm and dry, so we were lucky. It was only cold when we got to Santiago and we had a few drizzles there.

 

[JillGat]

I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?

I haven’t been following your Camino since I’m on the Invierno right now, but a quick skim through the posts and beautiful pictures show that you’re having a wonderful camino.

I’m in Galicia now too (leaving Quiroga today), and it looks like we will have enough rain for the next week to keep us good and wet every day!

The dealbreaker for us at Campobecerros was the copious evidence of a longterm bedbug infestation. The rims of the mattresses were lined with evidence. And there was a dead bedbug on top of the sheet. Glad that wasn't apparently your room, Chrissy!

 

[Dojo]

Chrissy - I plan to do the VDP/Sanabres in May 2025 starting in Salamanca, so I am following your posts with much interest. Is there a reason you didn't start in Salamanca? How was the train from Madrid to Salamanca- did you have any issues? Your days seem rather short - did you plan it that way or did lodging drive it?

 

[davebugg]

Oh My Gosh. . . .. . the Camino Withdrawals have started up again. I really need a Pilgrimage Fix.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Glad that wasn't apparently your room, Chrissy!

I checked the mattresses and the slats first thing. Then I looked in the closet and corners of the nightstand drawers. I saw no sign of the tiny black poo buildups anywhere. I am glad you found somewhere else to stay close by...all good..

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chrissy - I plan to do the VDP/Sanabres in May 2025 starting in Salamanca, so I am following your posts with much interest. Is there a reason you didn't start in Salamanca? How was the train from Madrid to Salamanca- did you have any issues? Your days seem rather short - did you plan it that way or did lodging drive it?

Dojo, I only wanted to be away from home for less than a month and always add in a few sightseeing days, in addition to the walk.
I chose the Sanabres for the mountainy views, good signage, and interesting and varied terrain. I knew that it would be a flatter route after Salamanca to Rionegro del Puente, and I had walked the Camino de Madrid last fall, which was lovely, but quite flat as I started in Segovia.
As for some shorter days I'd planned and reserved most lodging ahead, so my stages are a mixture. Also I prefer to walk around 20k when possible. I am slow because I marvel at all I see around me and stop often to take pictures.
The train from Madrid to Salamanca was not difficult to get and we purchased them ahead of time.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

We met two older Frenchmen at breakfast this morning who are walking two stages today; my one stage is already 20k.
We also met a German gal who walks alone and started in Salamanca. She is walking even farther than those men because she was unable to reserve lodging for herself on her planned stage.

 

[Kirkie]

@Camino Chrissy it is time to add my voice to the chorus of applause for your excellent posts. So glad all is going well for you, with your son. You have an inbuilt 'family' and that is all you need! Keep safe, and I look forward to the rest of the pilgrim posting from you.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

How sweet of you to say, @Kirkie. Thank you!
We are heading out now...into the gray weather. Yes, having my son accompany me is a huge plus!

 

[J Willhaus]

I read in the paper today that rain in Galicia will continue through Sunday. Keep the rain gear and your umbrella handy!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 10-
We didn't leave our very nice lodging at Casa Blanco Conde in Laza until 9:00am this morning, and our walk was a very average 19.2k to Vilar de Barrio.

The first portion is mostly uphill and was on quite a bit of stone shale and scree for a couple of kilometers, so I had to watch my footing; thankfully it was not wet underfoot.


Most of the day was cloudy with slightly warmer weather, but still chilly. The blessing was that the sun popped out "here and there", and we only had one quick ten minute rain shower in the early afternoon.
We walked for about an hour with an interesting 63 year old Irish woman, Geraldine. She and her husband lived on a 50' sailboat for thirty years and sailed around the world three times before stopping at age 50. She now walks Caminos while her husband does his own thing in their camper van and picks her up at the end of her stages every day.

There were quite a few dogs behind bars today; here are the most ferocious ones.


The last half was downhill all the way to town. Our room at Casa do Adelina is wonderful with many stone walls and we had the whole quaint two story house to ourselves as no one else booked the other two rooms. We decided to make our own dinner to hang out and make more use of this special place.

Random photos from today...

 

[Corned Beef]

I see you stopped at Rincón do Peregrino in Alberguería. Not one to miss.

 

[Lindsay53]

Enjoying following your journey Chrissy. If you are stopping in Xunqueira de Ambia I thoroughly recommend Casa Tomas.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Loving your posts, Chrissy!

 

[VNwalking]

Loving your posts, Chrissy!

Yes, me too. And the ferocious dogs.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Enjoying following your journey Chrissy. If you are stopping in Xunqueira de Ambia I thoroughly recommend Casa Tomas.

We were unable to get a reservation in that town, so are staying in nearby Pousa, 2k further. Your suggestion may be beneficial to someone else reading along.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yes, me too. And the ferocious dogs.

The dogs were absolutely adorable and didn't yap at all.

 

[VNwalking]

The dogs were absolutely adorable and didn't yap at all.

Yeah, they really look like cuties.
May these be the only kind of dogs you encounter.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yeah, they really look like cuties.
May these be the only kind of dogs you encounter.

Hope so! I hear that shortly after the monastery at Oseiro there have been a bad dog or two reported by Luka and confirmed by others...we shall see.

 

[VNwalking]

I don't think Jilll encountered them, so hopefully it's nothing to worry about.

 

[jungleboy]

Hope so! I hear that shortly after the monastery at Oseiro there have been a bad dog or two reported by Luka and confirmed by others...we shall see.

Chrissy will just give them the sourpuss charm treatment and they’ll be wagging their tails at her in no time!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Chrissy will just give them the sourpuss charm treatment and they’ll be wagging their tails at her in no time!

I try doing that every time I pass the barking meanies, but 4 out of 5 times my charming ways fall on deaf ears.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 11-
Leaving Laza in the morning, we first stopped.on.our way out of town for coffee and breakfast. We usually ask if eggs are available and usually the answer is No, but today we were offered omelettes and they were awesome with herbs, sliced tomatoes on the side drizzled with olive oil and salt, good cheese, and bread. We were very excited when we saw our plates!


Today's walk did not have very many ups and downs, but most of them were on either very wet, muddy paths going down, or embedded and scattered rocks going up. Other paths were through forests or small country lanes, so basically we had many types of walking conditions.

This sign says "hug me" and points to this tree...



The little villages we pass are always interesting to me, but the little churches have not been open. I miss seeing the big cathedrals in Salamanca and Zamora.
There always seem to be a few very nice, newer homes in the outskirts of these ancient little villages. They are always made out of pure stone.



We saw more dogs today, but all were quiet and friendly as we passed by. The friendliest dog behind the family gate looked lonely and didn't bark. This sign was posted, and it translates to say, "Eye loose dog".


We ended our day with a wonderful home-made meal at A Pousa Pension, where we sre staying the night. I appreciated rice and grilled veggies for a change to go with the chicken.

 

[Scott...O]

today we were offered omelettes

Where did you eat breakfast in Laza, please?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Scott, the awesome breakfast was in Vilar de Barrio at Bistro Don Manuel...not in Laza. In Laza we had a very simple breakfast at our lodging.

 

[Scott...O]

Scott, the awesome breakfast was in Vilar de Barrio at Bistro Don Manuel...not in Laza. In Laza we had a very simple breakfast at our lodging.

Thx, sounds like you had a very big day from Laza to A Pousa Pension - congrats , you would have needed 2nd breakfast…

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thx, sounds like you had a very big day from Laza to A Pousa Pension - congrats , you would have needed 2nd breakfast…

I am sorry, Scott, as I didn't make myself clear enough. We stopped for the night in Vilar de Barrio, and the great breakfast was in that same village. The next night was in Pousa. I cut that long stage in two and was glad I did.

 

[henrythedog]

What a pleasure to read about someone taking the time to experience a route rather than just complete it. Buen Camino.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 11
It rained today steady for an hour, so we added our umbrellas to our rain gear. An hour doesn't sound like much of over 6 hours walking, but it is when navigating a variety of trails. The weather has been slowly getting warmer, so we haven't needed our gloves and warm hats...yay.




I'm a sucker for old blue doors, so here is a plethora on an old building.


We only stopped once, sitting on an enclosed "Bus Stop" bench to eat our cheese sandwiches, cashews, and chocolate out of the rain. It reminded me of the old song I recalled as a very young teen so I took my phone off airplane mode and played it on Youtube while we walked; it was so much fun to hear it!
I hope this link works...

As we neared our destination of the city of Ourense, the proportion of lovely homes increased. We eventually turned left at the car dealership and walked the river path recommended by Laurie into the city.



We later arrived at our room at J&J Hostel and have two nights here. This room has a beautiful enclosed balcony, so it can be enjoyed even if it rains, which is still predicted for another day; highly recommend room #103 as only two rooms have the angled enclosed huge balcony.


We do not always like eating dinner so late at the typical 8:00pm in Spain, so we'd stopped at a grocery store for pasta salads, strawberries, and ice for the bottle of fizzy Semi Seco white wine I enjoy.
Sunday is a free day in Ourense, so I'll check for sights to see in addition to the cathedral, although it is supposed to rain.
A whimsy pilgrim...

 

[Kirkie]

Day 11
It rained today steady for an hour, so we added our umbrellas to our rain gear. An hour doesn't sound like much of over 6 hours walking, but it is when navigating a variety of trails. The weather has been slowly getting warmer, so we haven't needed our gloves and warm hats...yay.
View attachment 169480
View attachment 169481
View attachment 169482
View attachment 169483
I'm a sucker for old blue doors, so here is a plethora on an old building.
View attachment 169484

We only stopped once, sitting on an enclosed "Bus Stop" bench to eat our cheese sandwiches, cashews, and chocolate out of the rain. It reminded me of the old song I recalled as a very young teen so I took my phone off airplane mode and played it on Youtube while we walked; it was so much fun to hear it!
I hope this link works...

As we neared our destination of the city of Ourense, the proportion of lovely homes increased. We eventually turned left at the car dealership and walked the river path recommended by Laurie into the city.
View attachment 169485
View attachment 169486

We later arrived at our room at J&J Hostel and have two nights here. This room has a beautiful enclosed balcony, so it can be enjoyed even if it rains, which is still predicted for another day; highly recommend room #103 as only two rooms have the angled enclosed huge balcony.
View attachment 169487

We do not always like eating dinner so late at the typical 8:00pm in Spain, so we'd stopped at a grocery store for pasta salads, strawberries, and ice for the bottle of fizzy Semi Seco white wine I enjoy.
Sunday is a free day in Ourense, so I'll check for sights to see in addition to the cathedral, although it is supposed to rain.
A whimsy pilgrim...
View attachment 169491

Thanks for the memory, Chris! Buen camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

What a pleasure to read about someone taking the time to experience a route rather than just complete it. Buen Camino.

I'm glad you are enjoying my posts.
These three amigos were seriously ferocious and the one on the far right is named Henry...just sayin'.

 

[VNwalking]

What a pleasure to read about someone taking the time to experience a route rather than just complete it. Buen Camino.

Me too. It also gives hope and inspiration that this camino is doable for those of us with shorter comfort zones

 

[jungleboy]

We do not always like eating dinner so late at the typical 8:00pm in Spain

8pm at the absolute earliest! A lot of restaurant kitchens wouldn’t even be open yet.

 

[Bradypus]

It rained today steady for an hour, so we added our umbrellas to our rain gear.

It seems to have been a pretty grim week or two for weather over a lot of the Caminos. Huge numbers still arriving in Santiago though. I've been watching the webcam near Monte do Gozo now and again and it sometimes looks like the paintings of Napoleon's retreat from Moscow with all the damp people walking past! Ultreia!

 

[dougfitz]

I take it that 'Oja al perro' and 'Oja perro suelto' have colloquial meanings like 'watch out for the dog' or 'watch out, dogs on the loose (inside the yard)'. The only other explanation that I came up for 'ojo perro suelto' was to translate it literally to 'loose eye dog' and extend that to 'crazy dog', which seemed to be rather a stretch of the imagination!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Second breakfast, of course, why didn't I see the connection earlier! All of us Camino addicts have the Hobbit Gene !
No wonder we all need wider shoes...

 

[VNwalking]

These three amigos were seriously ferocious and the one on the far right is named Henry...just sayin'.

OMG. Love them all, each and every ferocious snarling one.

 

[Dani7]

Oh Chrissy. So enjoying your post, pictures and the song. perfect for your day. Thank you once again for taking the time to share your experience with us. Makes those of us longing to be on a camino feel connected to yours.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Oh Chrissy. So enjoying your post, pictures and the song. perfect for your day. Thank you once again for taking the time to share your experience with us. Makes those of us longing to be on a camino feel connected to yours.

Thanks, Dani! I spend quite a bit of time putting my posts together most days and I enjoy doing it. It's nice to know you appreciate what I write.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Thanks, Dani! I spend quite a bit of time putting my posts together most days and I enjoy doing it. It's nice to know you appreciate what I write.

Dani is not alone, your post's are much appreciated. It's clear that you put quite an effort into them and the photos are excellent.
Thanks!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 12-
Rest day in Ourense.
It was another drizzly day, but mostly just spitting, on and off. We still managed doing a little sightseeing, although it did put a little "damper"(pun) on things, but not our spirits.

First, we headed over to the awesome, unique Millennium bridge and climbed all of the many steps up and around it, taking pictures of the different angles. I'm normally afraid of heights and scared of roller coasters, so walking this beast of a bridge was quite an accomplishment for this wuss.



Next we walked over to the completely opposite looking bridge not far away; the medieval Roman high bridge.



Next we had a lunch of Raciones; two types of chiperones, and jamon croquettes to share, and a glass of vino Blanco.
The little restaurant looked out at the Ourense Cathedral, which was next on our agenda. The entry fee was only €5 for pilgrims and the audio tour was interesting to learn a few things about this awe inspiring cathedral. Ever since I visited the Sculpture museum in Valladolid with its many wood sculptures with polychrome finishes, I always look for signs of the wood exposed under the built up layering. Here is an example where the hands are broken off, exposing the wood.


We climbed the 110 old stone steps up to the top of the bell tower; always a favorite thing I like to do and a nice surprise it was included in the tour.




We stumbled on this beautiful creation on a street made entirely of flowers and other loving plants.

We made sure to get our sello stamps in case we decide to get Compostelas in Santiago.
Ourense is one of the 100k walks that qualifies for the certificate.

Due to the weather, we decided not to swim at any of the thermal bath hot springs, which was rather disappointing as eas something I had looked forward to.

Ourense was a nice city, but definitely not one of my top favorites of the ones I've seen in Spain.

Tomorrow morning we head out to walk a majority of the day to Cea, where we have a reservation at Casa Manoso; 22k from Ourense.

 

[Bradypus]

Due to the weather, we decided not to swim at any of the thermal bath hot springs, which was rather disappointing as eas something I had looked forward to.

That's a pity - one of the highlights of Ourense for me. Any sign of the As Burgas pool just down from the albergue being back in use any time soon?

 

[Luka]

I am also enjoying your reports, @Camino Chrissy! I am following them with special interest, as I will be on the Sanabrés soon! Booked at J&J too, but a single room, so I guess no balcony for me...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am also enjoying your reports, @Camino Chrissy! I am following them with special interest, as I will be on the Sanabrés soon! Booked at J&J too, but a single room, so I guess no balcony for me...

Maybe you will get one of their regular balconies if you put in a request.

 

[JillGat]

We met two older Frenchmen at breakfast this morning who are walking two stages today; my one stage is already 20k.
We also met a German gal who walks alone and started in Salamanca. She is walking even farther than those men because she was unable to reserve lodging for herself on her planned stage.

Were there problems finding beds in the albergues? Everywhere we stayed was over half empty.

 

[JillGat]

Day 8-
We walked from A Gudina to Campobecerros today, a total of 21k. It is supposed to be one of THE most beautiful stages on the Sanabres, and after such a gorgeous day yesterday, I was looking forward to this stage. Unfortunately we woke up to cold, fog and intermittent mist and light rain. Oh yes, we had some wind at times, too. I had forgotten we had crossed over and entered Galicia yesterday, but Galicia didn't let us forget!
Two tour groups of about eight to ten walkers in each passed us up early on wearing day packs, but after that we saw no one else the rest of the way.

The good news is that the whole trail snaked back and forth along a small, paved mountain road with no traffic and few ascents and descents. I found it to be the absolutely perfect surface to be walking in the rain and our dirty shoes were even washed clean.
We kept dry and "fairly warm" except for our fleece gloves that eventually got wet and it became difficult to keep our hands warm after six hours of walking. The temp hovered between 48 and 54°F the whole time. We had no opportunity to stop and eat the lunch we'd brought, nor to stop at a cafe/bar for a break.

We could barely see anything the whole way, which made me thankful for the sunshine and beauty of yesterday. Finally about an hour before we arrived at Casa Nunez (thanks to @peragrina2000 calling in a reservation for me), some of the fog and rain lifted, so I was able to take several pictures with my wrinkled, numb fingers.
View attachment 169142View attachment 169143View attachment 169144

The beautiful reservoir peeked out.
View attachment 169145
View attachment 169146

I will mention that every mojone along the Sanabres has been in pristine condition with absolutely no graffiti whatsoever; possibly because this more remote area draws mature, dedicated walkers in general.
(Our destination of Campobecerros in the background.)
View attachment 169147

We finished our walk with a cafe con leche to warm us up and much later a nice meal of homemade soup, beef stew, potatoes, vino tinto, and chocolate ice cream cones.

That IS a beautiful section of the Sanabres. Great pics! I'm sorry you had so much rain. Did you get a chance to try the swing, at least? It was actually hot for us the day we walked that (about a week before you?) Somebody showed me a pic from a few weeks before we were there and there was about 3" of snow on the trail!

 

[JillGat]

It seems to have been a pretty grim week or two for weather over a lot of the Caminos. Huge numbers still arriving in Santiago though. I've been watching the webcam near Monte do Gozo now and again and it sometimes looks like the paintings of Napoleon's retreat from Moscow with all the damp people walking past! Ultreia!

View attachment 169503

We were a week ahead of Chrissy and really lucked out. It was warm and dry the whole way (started in Puebla de Sanabria), until just before Santiago. It got a bit cold and a little drizzly, but other than that we had no rain at all.

 

[JillGat]

There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.
View attachment 168636

We were there on Apr. 14th.

Here is my daughter ringing the bell at the little Terroso church.
And a pic of the steps up to the bells and an interesting carving on the front of the church.

 

[Babyboomergirl]

I am also enjoying your posts @Camino Chrissy and taking notes for my continuation of the VdlP and Sanabrés later this year. Thank you for sharing

 

[VNwalking]

different angles

You walked on that thing?!
Aiyeee. Marvelous.

Sounds like a lovely day.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Were there problems finding beds in the albergues? Everywhere we stayed was over half empty.

I not sure, Jill. I planned ahead from home and booked the majority of our nights and have seen very few other walkers each day to find out. Only heading out of Pueblo de Sanabria did we see the two big groups on organized tours pass us.

That IS a beautiful section of the Sanabres. Great pics! I'm sorry you had so much rain. Did you get a chance to try the swing, at least? It was actually hot for us the day we walked that (about a week before you?) Somebody showed me a pic from a few weeks before we were there and there was about 3" of snow on the trail!

Our rain thankfully was never pouring down. Mostly it was intermittent drizzle or light rain that came and went. The only day that was foggy happened to be this day. We stopped at the swing on the mirador and saw stone benches for gazing in all directions, knowing it was beautiful, but saw nothing through the shroud of fog.
By mid afternoon the fog lifted some and it was lovely.

I can't view the private video of your daughter. I too, rang a couple of the church bells when I could reach the chains...my mom often called me a little imp.

Thanks for sharing your tips along the way.
I hope your husband kept up on his many chores while you were away. If he did, he's a saint.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

You walked on that thing?!
Aiyeee. Marvelous.

Sounds like a lovely day.

Believe me, if I could walk on that "amusement park ride"...anyone can!

 

[VNwalking]

There's no applause reaction emoji.
So here's one.
Well done!

 

[Kirkie]

You walked on that thing?!
Aiyeee. Marvelous.

Sounds like a lovely day.

For both, OP and VNwalking: and why not?
Is that not why the (dopes) climb mountains? Just because they are there!
Forgive me, I would not willingly climb any mountain. Yes, poor me. The loser in the face of that kind of challenge.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 13-
Today was a majority uphill, from Ourense to Cea, a total of 22.3k according to Gronze. It was a long day for me, with a nice variety of trails, lanes and eventually picking our way through wet rocks in steam beds. I see someone left their shoes!




Highlights included an early "picnic" lunch at an awesome tiny church on a big climb after a long slog getting out of Ourense with great views of the city below. The fog was just beginning to lift and eventually the sun broke through in all its glory after about three+ days of gray skies.



My other favorite thing today was walking through the renovated village of Tamallancos, with pristine homes on the main village Camino street heading toward Cea.



A very friendly, cute dog started following us for about one kilometer before he turned back after we left his sight rounding a corner. It was a relief, but he was adorable with long, fluffy fur and an unusual face.


The small town of Cea, where we are staying at Casa Manoso, is a little treasure itself as everything is kept up well and the village square is particularly nice.



P.S. We only saw two bikagrinos today; no walkers.

 

[nycwalking]

Day 13-
Today was a majority uphill, from Ourense to Cea, a total of 22.3k according to Gronze. It was a long day for me, with a nice variety of trails, lanes and eventually picking our way through wet rocks in steam beds. I see someone left their shoes!
View attachment 169666
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View attachment 169667

Highlights included an early "picnic" lunch at an awesome tiny church on a big climb after a long slog getting out of Ourense with great views of the city below. The fog was just beginning to lift and eventually the sun broke through in all its glory after about three+ days of gray skies.
View attachment 169669
View attachment 169671

My other favorite thing today was walking through the renovated village of Tamallancos, with pristine homes on the main village Camino street heading toward Cea.
View attachment 169672
View attachment 169673

A very friendly, cute dog started following us for about one kilometer before he turned back after we left his sight rounding a corner. It was a relief, but he was adorable with long, fluffy fur and an unusual face.
View attachment 169676

The small town of Cea, where we are staying at Casa Manoso, is a little treasure itself as everything is kept up well and the village square is particularly nice.
View attachment 169674
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P.S. We only saw two bikagrinos today; no walkers.

Lovely pictures.

In 2019, the thermal baths steps from albergue were open. A light drizzle cooled the heat of the baths the night I was there.

I took a wrong turn out of Ourense.

So, I ended up walking up, up, and up the road with cars whizzing or screeching past.

I stayed at the municipal albergue in Cea where I met a 60ish male Irish pilgrim.

We fell asleep to the snores of the hospitalero.

Buen camino CC and son.

 

[JillGat]

Believe me, if I could walk on that "amusement park ride"...anyone can!

Walk on WHAT thing? I cant find the post about that.

 

[dougfitz]

Walk on WHAT thing? I cant find the post about that.

Check the photos in Post #79 of the new bridge at Ourense.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Walk on WHAT thing? I cant find the post about that.

It's this crazy looking, extremely modern bridge with a pedestrian crossing up, around, over and down with oodles of steps.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Lovely pictures.

In 2019, the thermal baths steps from albergue were open. A light drizzle cooled the heat of the baths the night I was there.

I took a wrong turn out of Ourense.

So, I ended up walking up, up, and up the road with cars whizzing or screeching past.

I stayed at the municipal albergue in Cea where I met a 60ish male Irish pilgrim.

We fell asleep to the snores of the hospitalero.

Buen camino CC and son.

Thank you, NYC.
Lucky you, seeing the thermal baths right by the albergue. We never saw them at all.
Your walk out of Ourense sounds awful. Did you take the left Y out of town instead of the right?
Are you saying a hospitalero snored?

 

[Dani7]

It's this crazy looking, extremely modern bridge with a pedestrian crossing up, around, over and down with oodles of steps.
View attachment 169698View attachment 169699View attachment 169700

You are one brave lady. I’m also scared of heights. Just looking at the added photos (views) you posted raised my heart rate . Good job

 

[Suzanne S.]

It's this crazy looking, extremely modern bridge with a pedestrian crossing up, around, over and down with oodles of steps.
View attachment 169698View attachment 169699View attachment 169700

Just looking at these pictures makes me dizzy!