LIVE from the Camino Day by day on the Camino Frances spring 2022 - on my way

[alexwalker]

Today I booked (for the first time in 13 years!) a few days ahead from Pamplona: Uterga, Puente la Reina, Villatuerta, for several reasons: Many places are still closed, I want to assess traffic; it is a Holy year after all, but not least: If there is a bed race going on, I certainly don't want any part in it.

My intention is to start out slow, less than 20 kms/day, because I have the time (retired). I also want to walk in peace, taking whatever breaks I want, and being sure I have a bed at the end of the day. As the walk progresses, I'll make new assessments.

My Spanish is basico, but enough to pick up the phone, call and ask if they are open, reserving a bed, and saying when I'm coming. My Spanish is certainly much higher standard than their Norwegian!

So, the last couple of days at home, I am doing what most pilgrims are doing: Wondering what I have forgotten, where my stuff is, weighing my backpack, etc. (I am 68 in 5 days from now...).

 

[alexwalker]

Day 0: not as planned.

This is probably the fastest failing plan since Putin. I am stuck in a hotel in Oslo: my plane had a tech problem before it even left the ground, had to take another one 2 hours later and missed my plane to Barcelona…

Oh well, the airline is covering hotel and meals as well as a new ticket tomorrow morning.

Got a new SPTH QR code, and must do some phone calls to redo some bookings….

Goes to show that the best plan is not to have a plan…

I was to sit and sip a cold beer in Barcelona right now, waiting for my 15.30 train to Pamplona…

But i’ll get there. Tomorrow.

 

[alexwalker]

Day finally

After much hassle I am now in Pamplona. Ready to walk out tomorrow morning but first some spicy tortilla. I think I will treat myself to a little more goodies before bedtime. Not many pilgrims in the Jesus y Maria albergue tonight.

 

[Former member 49149]

So glad you are finally there. I hope you will leave Pamplona ahead of the threatened snow - you don't need that, coming from where you live! Buen Camino!

 

[alexwalker]

So glad you are finally there. I hope you will leave Pamplona ahead of the threatened snow - you don't need that, coming from where you live! Buen Camino!

Thank you soo much for your thoughts. As a former winter soldier in the Arctic, Spain has to throw a lot of sh’t at me from keeping me from going rhrough it. More than they have i think …..

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, @alexwalker! I am so sorry that you and @henrythedog are not going to overlap, because I think it would make for GREAT reading!

 

[mspath]

alexwalker,
Glad to read that now you are in Pamplona. Looking forward to following your posts as you move along.
Stay safe, Carpe diem, and, in the truest sense Ultreia.

 

[alexwalker]

Day 1: Pamplona - Uterga

Ca. 17 kms, 5C kl. 8AM. not many pilgrims on the way. Staying in Casa Baztan. 5 pilgrims here. Ready for communal dinner in a few minutes

In Pamplona it was ca. 35. i municipal albergue. It has much higher capasity. capasity.

 

[ApproachingBliss]

thank you for sharing the pictures of your food. It looked delicious! Have a good dinner.

 

[alexwalker]

Day 2 Uterga-Puente la Reina

Well, Spain just threw a pile of snow at us! We woke up to wind and a snow-covered landscpe. After a nice communal dinner followed by free chanpagne bc of my birthday the day before (!), it was a very nice night’s sleep. Today was luckily just a short walk but it took some time bc we had ro seek shelter a couple of times. A nice excuse for sitting warm inside with a cold Spanish beer…

I am now in the albergue Estrella Guia in Puente la Reina. Very clean, nice and friendly, run by former pulgrims. It was full at 2PM, so I will continue booking ahead!

 

[J Willhaus]

I know you are a winter warrior and hope you brought the clothes/footwear good for the snow. As you remember some hills tomorrow so take care if it is slick.

 

[alexwalker]

I know you are a winter warrior and hope you brought the clothes/footwear good for the snow. As you remember some hills tomorrow so take care if it is slick.

Thank you! Yes, peace of cake for me; just like home. Thanks for your concern; i am prepared for most things here in «sunny warm Spain». Many layers, pack cover, poncho etc. i have served on border patrols against Russia, Spain is not a problen.

 

[alexwalker]

Forgot to say: it just stopped snowing here in Puente la Reina…

 

[alexwalker]

Day 3 : Puente la Reina-Villatuerta

Another snowy start to the day, but cleared up and sun came. But cold winds. I have gotten 2 firsttimers who have decided to bond to me. .

It’s ok: Who am I to deny them good company ?

Weather shall improve, according to forecasts. I hope so; this is the weather i tried to escape from in Arctic Norway!

 

[naplesdon]

Are you sure you don't want to take a short bus ride from Pamplona to SJPP and take a walk to Roncesvalles, @alexwalker ? Even without a backpack. It's so beautiful up there! You won't regret it. And you can stop in Borda which has so many great reviews and the owner is a chef! You would certainly admire great food surrounded by this beautiful nature !

Good idea but it would have been a disaster for Alex with the snow storm.

 

[alexwalker]

I forgot to say on Day 3: EVERYTHING is closed in Lorca!!

 

[Former member 49149]

@alexwalker I do hope your weather is improving. I look forward to your reports...

 

[donalomahony]

Thanks @alexwalker loving the updates...

 

[palmah]

I forgot to say on Day 3: EVERYTHING is closed in Lorca!!

Yes, very disappointing.

 

[alexwalker]

Leaving Puente la Reina yesterday:

 

[alexwalker]

Day 4: Villatuerta-Asqueta.

A short day, 11kms. But according to plan: I take it slow as I have the time. Have 2 followers that also need to take it slow (blisters/back problems, of course).

The day was a slow, easy one. Cold in the morning, but partly sunny. Now enjoying a coffee and Hierbas liquer in the local bar while enjoying the afternoon sun
.
Staying in la Perla Negra: VERY friendly owner Helena. I recommend, she will serve a vegetarian communal dinner, and even if I am a carnivor i can survive one day on grass.
Passed Fuente del Vino today: I have my own cup:

 

[alexwalker]

Vegetarian dinner. The lentil soup was great. Also tortilla, bread, rice and salad. Tomorrow back to normal. Full heating inside. Good.

 

[alexwalker]

25 Euros for bed, 20 for meal. Too expensive.

 

[nycwalking]

25 Euros for bed, 20 for meal. Too expensive.

Yikes!

 

[alexwalker]

Day 5: Azquieta-Los Arcos

An uneventful 14 kms walk. Nothing open in Villamayor so no coffee/beer there. Otherwise a splendid sunny day of walking. Several layers needed. Layers off as the sun came up.

Good volume of pilgrims actually, but still beds in the albergue at 5PM (Casa Austria). Nice place.

The temperature has risen and is good but still cold in the morning. Better prices here than in the disaster area of yesterday.

Entering Rioja the day after tomorrow. Will be ample wine tasting .

 

[Former member 38395]

Day 5: Azquieta-Los Arcos

An uneventful 14 kms walk. Nothing open in Villamayor so no coffee/beer there. Otherwise a splendid sunny day of walking. Several layers needed. Layers off as the sun came up.

Good volume of pilgrims actually, but still beds in the albergue at 5PM (Casa Austria). Nice place.

The temperature has risen and is good but still cold in the morning. Better prices here than in the disaster area of yesterday.

Entering Rioja the day after tomorrow. Will be ample wine tasting .

Disappointed with your comment - ‘Better prices here than in the disaster area of yesterday.’

 

[alexwalker]

Disappointed with your comment - ‘Better prices here than in the disaster area of yesterday.’

We all felt very bad about it: it felt not fair to us.

 

[kellycolada]

Day 0: not as planned.

This is probably the fastest failing plan since Putin. I am stuck in a hotel in Oslo: my plane had a tech problem before it even left the ground, had to take another one 2 hours later and missed my plane to Barcelona…

Oh well, the airline is covering hotel and meals as well as a new ticket tomorrow morning.

Got a new SPTH QR code, and must do some phone calls to redo some bookings….

Goes to show that the best plan is not to have a plan…

I was to sit and sip a cold beer in Barcelona right now, waiting for my 15.30 train to Pamplona…

But i’ll get there. Tomorrow.

I’m glad you were delayed so I had the good fortune to meet you in Uterga!!!!!

 

[alexwalker]

Day 6: Los Arcos-Viana

Weather is splendid but still chilly. Easy walking to Torres del Rio, but from there to Viana it is ups and downs all the way. Tough walking. But Viana is well worth a stopover.

Relaxing here before slow walking 10 kms to Logrono tomorrow.

There has been much talk on this forum about increased prices. To a large extent it has not happened. A coffe is still between 1.20-1.80, albergue beds are more or less the same, and today i bought agood pack of hem, chees, bread and bottle of good Rioja red for less than 7 euros.

The price level here is mostly like pre-Covid. It really has no influence on my budget.

Masks: it’s casual, relaxed. A few places insist, most places are relaxed. Inside a restaurant right now and nobody uses them.

It feels pleasantly safe on the camino now. Just go.

 

[Wanderingfriend]

Yesterday: Decision day.

Fully vaccinated, incl. booster, and infection rates sinking everywhere, I told my better half that I will take a walk this spring, and received an OK (After 2 years of sitting off this pandemic, I suspect OK was easy to give..)

Today: Booking day.

Plane ticket booked: 130 Euros to Barcelona. Leaving Arctic Norway (Tromsø, with Norwegian airline) at 6.30, change of plane in Oslo, Arriving in barcelona 12.55; only 6 hours to cross Europe: Unbelievable!

That gives me 2.5 hours to get to Saints train station. Plenty of time.

Train ticket: 30 Euros. Leaving Saints at 15.30 for a 3h20m. nice train ride to Pamplona, arriving at 19.20. Scedules found on www.rome2rio.com. Taxi to a pre-booked hostel in Pamplona, and relaxing with some pinxtos & a glass of red.

PS: I am not pre-booking train tickets: This time of year, they will have seats. Also, I am 60+, so I can buy a Carta Dorada, (Gold card) for 6 Euros, which will give me a 25% discount on mostly all train travels in Spain or a full year.

Day 0: Travel day.

March 29, 6.30 AM

To be continued.

Can anyone over 60 get this card or is it just for EU?

 

[alexwalker]

Can anyone over 60 get this card or is it just for EU?

I think it is for everybody, respecting us old folks

 

[Wanderingfriend]

Day 0: not as planned.

This is probably the fastest failing plan since Putin. I am stuck in a hotel in Oslo: my plane had a tech problem before it even left the ground, had to take another one 2 hours later and missed my plane to Barcelona…

Oh well, the airline is covering hotel and meals as well as a new ticket tomorrow morning.

Got a new SPTH QR code, and must do some phone calls to redo some bookings….

Goes to show that the best plan is not to have a plan…

I was to sit and sip a cold beer in Barcelona right now, waiting for my 15.30 train to Pamplona…

But i’ll get there. Tomorrow.

Great attitude!

 

[kellycolada]

Day 6: Los Arcos-Viana

Weather is splendid but still chilly. Easy walking to Torres del Rio, but from there to Viana it is ups and downs all the way. Tough walking. But Viana is well worth a stopover.

Relaxing here before slow walking 10 kms to Logrono tomorrow.

There has been much talk on this forum about increased prices. To a large extent it has not happened. A coffe is still between 1.20-1.80, albergue beds are more or less the same, and today i bought agood pack of hem, chees, bread and bottle of good Rioja red for less than 7 euros.

The price level here is mostly like pre-Covid. It really has no influence on my budget.

Masks: it’s casual, relaxed. A few places insist, most places are relaxed. Inside a restaurant right now and nobody uses them.

It feels pleasantly safe on the camino now. Just go.

Very good advice. Thanks for the insight!

 

[kellycolada]

Day 1: Pamplona - Uterga

Ca. 17 kms, 5C kl. 8AM. not many pilgrims on the way. Staying in Casa Baztan. 5 pilgrims here. Ready for communal dinner in a few minutes

In Pamplona it was ca. 35. i municipal albergue. It has much higher capasity. capasity.

Hope your birthday was a happy one!

 

[kellycolada]

Day 3 : Puente la Reina-Villatuerta

Another snowy start to the day, but cleared up and sun came. But cold winds. I have gotten 2 firsttimers who have decided to bond to me. .

It’s ok: Who am I to deny them good company ?

Weather shall improve, according to forecasts. I hope so; this is the weather i tried to escape from in Arctic Norway!

And we are still bonded! Enjoying wine with you right now!

 

[kellycolada]

25 Euros for bed, 20 for meal. Too expensive.

€25 was high for the room, I agree. But the company was priceless!

 

[alexwalker]

€25 was high for the room, I agree. But the company was priceless!

Agree

 

[gmag]

Dear Alex,
in March 2020, when the closure of albergues began, you helped us.
Now I have the opportunity to meet you in person, if you come to my albergue, in Frómista, you are of course invited, I mean literally invited. I also think I remember that we have a pending Rioja...
I hope you can give me that joy, although I will understand if you have your own stage plans.
Greetings,
Gabriel

 

[BookGirl305]

@alexwalker - question for you. Looks like with my pace, I'll be staying mostly off-stage as well. I have a reservation in Pamplona for my before night and Uterga to make sure I don't overdo my first day but winging it after that. It seems that quite a number of the off-stage places (like Lorca) are not open or have fewer open in each town. With respect to that, while the pricing was higher at the one, do you feel that it was of good quality? The challenge will be to arrive in each town and try to judge ability level to the next town or staying put and hoping that town offers some place comfortable and safe with good food. It does seem as though that albergue charged more than the others, but all in all, if it was a choice of walking more or paying the extra 10E, where would you fall on that?

 

[alexwalker]

Dear Alex,
in March 2020, when the closure of albergues began, you helped us.
Now I have the opportunity to meet you in person, if you come to my albergue, in Frómista, you are of course invited, I mean literally invited. I also think I remember that we have a pending Rioja...
I hope you can give me that joy, although I will understand if you have your own stage plans.
Greetings,
Gabriel

You are in my plans. Thank you!

 

[alexwalker]

@alexwalker - question for you. Looks like with my pace, I'll be staying mostly off-stage as well. I have a reservation in Pamplona for my before night and Uterga to make sure I don't overdo my first day but winging it after that. It seems that quite a number of the off-stage places (like Lorca) are not open or have fewer open in each town. With respect to that, while the pricing was higher at the one, do you feel that it was of good quality? The challenge will be to arrive in each town and try to judge ability level to the next town or staying put and hoping that town offers some place comfortable and safe with good food. It does seem as though that albergue charged more than the others, but all in all, if it was a choice of walking more or paying the extra 10E, where would you fall on that?

Pay extra, but only if it is impossible to go on. In 1 1/2 week Easter is over and most places will be open. Buen Camino

 

[alexwalker]

Day 7: Viana-Logrono

A very short day, only 10 kms. I wanted to walk the tapas street Calle del Laurel. What a food street! And guess if I got what was coming: I am conpletely stuffed.

A fantastic place: so much tempting food, but one can only take in so much food and vino tinto. I do not care about the time in Spain: Somewhere it is already 5PM, so a cup or two of tinto is all right here.

The weather is splendid but cold and windy in the morning. Albergues turn off the heating in the night, so those who are going without a (light) sleeping bag, relying on a liner and/or carpet(s) are having very cold nights.

As we say at sea: hope for fair weather, but tie up for storm: prepare for the worst: we have had it last week…

 

[Former member 49149]

Day 7: Viana-Logrono

A very short day, only 10 kms. I wanted to walk the tapas street Calle del Laurel. What a food street! And guess if I got what was coming: I am conpletely stuffed.

A fantastic place: so much tempting food, but one can only take in so much food and vino tinto. I do not care about the time in Spain: Somewhere it is already 5PM, so a cup or two of tinto is all right here.

The weather is splendid but cold and windy in the morning. Albergues turn off the heating in the night, so those who are going without a (light) sleeping bag, relying on a liner and/or carpet(s) are having very cold nights.

As we say at sea: hope for fair weather, but tie up for storm: prepare for the worst: we have had it last week…

View attachment 122090

I am enjoying your reports. I am curious though: why would heating be expected during the night? I grew up in a house with one coal fire and a gas oven in the kitchen. Ok, move on 70 years. Yes, ok: the other day the gas bill came in at €200 more than same period last year. It was an estimated bill, but still, I would never keep the heating on at night at home ... do you?

edit: we had coats to cover us if we were cold!!! Ask Billy Connolly about that!

 

[alexwalker]

I am enjoying your reports. I am curious though: why would heating be expected during the night? I grew up in a house with one coal fire and a gas oven in the kitchen. Ok, move on 70 years. Yes, ok: the other day the gas bill came in at €200 more than same period last year. It was an estimated bill, but still, I would never keep the heating on at night at home ... do you?

edit: we had coats to cover us if we were cold!!! Ask Billy Connolly about that!

It is a good question. I come from a very cold place in the world and we usually sleep with the bedroom window open also in winter. I am used to/familiar with cold climate. Not everybody are.

There is IMHO so much nonsense on this forum about using liners, relying on albergue blankets, etc. The thruth is that you must prepare and if you have difficuties with cold nights, PREPARE.

Each morning i wake up warm and comfortable in my 700gr. Sleeping bag while i see people using liners/blankets are putting on full outdoor clothing ans still conplain. May have something to do with (lack of) experience:

Good decisions come fron experience.
Experience comes from bad decisions…

I don’t blame the albergues for cutting off heating at night: Energy costs have risen significantly the last months. We want them to survive for us, not? Proper pilgrim equipment for a Camino is not the responsibility of the albergues IMHO.

 

[J Willhaus]

It is a good question. I come from a very cold place in the world and we usually sleep with the bedroom window open also in winter. I am used to/familiar with cold climate. Not everybody are.

There is IMHO so much nonsense on this forum about using liners, relying on albergue blankets, etc. The thruth is that you must prepare and if you have difficuties with cold nights, PREPARE.

Each morning i wake up warm and comfortable in my 700gr. Sleeping bag while i see people using liners/blankets are putting on full outdoor clothing ans still conplain. May have something to do with (lack of) experience:

Good decisions come fron experience.
Experience comes from bad decisions…

I don’t blame the albergues for cutting off heating at night: Energy costs have risen significantly the last months. We want them to survive for us, not? Proper pilgrim equipment for a Camino is not the responsibility of the albergues IMHO.

I think it comes from not knowing. For example, in my home we have an electronic thermostat and it kicks the heat on at a lower temperature in the winter--but there is till heat all night. People who come from a similar situation may not even think about the heat until it is not on and may have never slept a cold night until they arrive at the Camino. I agree that experience can be a valuable teacher.

 

[alexwalker]

After a little nap after our tapas frenzy, we had to return for more! Will sleep well tonight, for sure!

 

[alexwalker]

Day 8: Logrono-Navarette

A good day, only 12 kms. But still cold winds on the walk.

We are closing in on Easter holiday and it shows: places are being fully booked ahead, and we have felt the need to set up a booking plan to get by passing Burgos next Thursday. There seems to be no other solution to get around this problem.

As you know many Spanish use days off to walk small portions of the Camino, and we are now in the beginning of that frenzy. But I’ll get by…

Went into the church of Navarrete today: overwhelming…

 

[mspath]

In Navarette if you are looking for a good menu del dia try El Molino which is centrally located near the church. It is good, popular, cheap, and copious.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Day 8: Logrono-Navarette

A good day, only 12 kms. But still cold winds on the walk.

We are closing in on Easter holiday and it shows: places are being fully booked ahead, and we have felt the need to set up a booking plan to get by passing Burgos next Thursday. There seems to be no other solution to get around this problem.

As you know many Spanish use days off to walk small portions of the Camino, and we are now in the beginning of that frenzy. But I’ll get by…

Went into the church of Navarrete today: overwhelming…

View attachment 122160

I’m not as far along as you on the Frances and I can also confirm that I’m noticing things booking up. I recommend booking up through Easter at this point.

 

[alexwalker]

In Navarette if you are looking for a good menu del dia try El Molino which is centrally located near the church. It is good, popular, cheap, and copious.

Sitting there right now, amiga. Difficult choices what to eat…

 

[mspath]

Sitting there right now, amiga. Difficult choices what to eat…View attachment 122170

Buen provecho!

 

[alexwalker]

Day 9: Navarette-Najera

Peaceful walk 16 kms. Most places completo or not answering, so got a place with no heating, no kitchen, and an unwelcoming host. Now I understand why I have never stopped here before….

But who cares: i have a bed and tomorrow is a new day.

I feel the pressure of the upcoming Easter and have now booked ahead all the way to Castrojeriz. Hope to find the old man still running his little tienda. Will definitively buy a pair of Lorpen socks!

Normally I would do another 5 kms to Azofra: the communal albergue there has rooms with only 2 wooden beds in each room, and a great kitchen: way way better!

Not much to do here other than have a coffee and a large Hierbas/Orujo…

 

[mspath]

Great hat! Over past years when I stayed at the Najera municipal a good value nearby resto was Mesón El Buen Yantar, Calle Mártires, 19, bajo.
tel. +34 941 36 02 74

Perhaps you might also enjoy it.

 

[alexwalker]

Great hat! Over past years when I stayed at the Najera municipal a good value nearby resto was Mesón El Buen Yantar, Calle Mártires, 19, bajo.
tel. +34 941 36 02 74

Perhaps you might also enjoy it.

Thank you! I am completo now; early bed awaiting.

 

[alexwalker]

Great hat! Over past years when I stayed at the Najera municipal a good value nearby resto was Mesón El Buen Yantar, Calle Mártires, 19, bajo.
tel. +34 941 36 02 74

Perhaps you might also enjoy it.

Me and my hat:

 

[Glenshiro]

Good to catch up with your news. I thought the weather was bad in June 2019 when we were both in Burgos, (although you had the sense to sit it out for the first day, after which things improved) but this is obviously worse! I'm planning on picking up where I left off, in Leon, in June. Hope things have warmed up by then. Buen Camino.

 

[alexwalker]

Day 10: Najera-Ciruena

This is just past the ghosttown with the golf course. It is really nice here: busy bar just 100 m. from the Victoria albergue with a communal dinner.

Najera certainly lives up to its bad reputation. I was woke up after 10PM by new incoming pilgrims… unbelievable…

The afternoon is sunny and relaxed: A cup of tinto (or two), a book, washing clothes & shovering, waiting for communal dinner. Will be nice

OH: Forgot: traffic is soaring. I counted +30 pilgrims out of Najera today on a 500 m. stretch. Our albergue is full. Seems that the Spanish have started their Easter walking.

It was to be expexted, so I have reserved a bed up to and including Castrojeriz. I intend to walk in peace.

After that we,ll see. It is a holy year after all.

 

[Marbe2]

I am enjoying your reports. I am curious though: why would heating be expected during the night? I grew up in a house with one coal fire and a gas oven in the kitchen. Ok, move on 70 years. Yes, ok: the other day the gas bill came in at €200 more than same period last year. It was an estimated bill, but still, I would never keep the heating on at night at home ... do you?

edit: we had coats to cover us if we were cold!!! Ask Billy Connolly about that!

For me it depends on how cold the room is when we get up, and what I am paying for it. At home at night, I set the heat to go on when the temperature drops below 60degrees F. Onthe camino, I do not expect that. Nor, if I rise earlier than the vast majority of pilgrims, do I expect the heat to be on. However, by 6am, if I still can see my breath in a private room, then, yes, I am annoyed that the heat was not up yet… Or if the water is freezing. Do I complain, no! I make the best of ii…but won't return there again.

 

[J Willhaus]

You will pass Grañón today. Since you are reserving you obviously won't stay at Hospital San Juan Baptiste but hopefully you will take time to enjoy this welcoming town and you could stop in for a bathroom break if needed.

 

[alexwalker]

You will pass Grañón today. Since you are reserving you obviously won't stay at Hospital San Juan Baptiste but hopefully you will take time to enjoy this welcoming town and you could stop in for a bathroom break if needed.

Will stay in Granon tomorrow. I carry my pack. Slow short day. Do not want to miss San Juan Batista. A highlight.

 

[mspath]

Will stay in Granon tomorrow. I carry my pack. Slow short day. Do not want to miss San Juan Batista. A highlight.

alexwalker,
All your readers who have happily stayed at San Juan Batista will be thinking of you tomorrow as they remember their stays. It is indeed a very special place.

Once you secure a spot at San Juan Batista you might care to walk here and back to get a change of view and perhaps a coffee.

Carpe diem!

 

[alexwalker]

alexwalker,
All your readers who have happily stayed at San Juan Batista will be thinking of you tomorrow as they remember their stays. It is indeed a very special place.

Once you secure a spot at San Juan Batista you might care to walk here and back to get a change of view and perhaps a coffee.

Carpe diem!

I may even play the guitar and sing a couple of special Camino songs!

 

[alexwalker]

alexwalker,
All your readers who have happily stayed at San Juan Batista will be thinking of you tomorrow as they remember their stays. It is indeed a very special place.

Once you secure a spot at San Juan Batista you might care to walk here and back to get a change of view and perhaps a coffee.

Carpe diem!

I will send pictures.

 

[J Willhaus]

Great! As hospitalera there we sang songs together with pilgrims and loved to have music when cooking together.

 

[J Willhaus]

The youth hostel that @mspath linked to is a nice walk.

 

[alexwalker]

Day 11: Ciruena-Granon

Anther uneventful 13 kms walk. Weather is good, but still cold winds now and then.

Ready for communal vegetar dinner tonight at the San Juan Batuista (belltower) albergue. Not exactly my favorite, but OK. For new pilgrims: this is no luxury: mattresses on the floor, but certainly special.

I learnt something new yesterday: normally, if you have a reservation and don’t show up at 14-15 in the afternoon, it is cancelled. But not if you send your backpack there. Better stay with those transporters…

The fireplace in the albergue is lit up. Good.

Will try to send pictures from dinner.

 

[J Willhaus]

Day 11: Ciruena-Granon

Anther uneventful 13 kms walk. Weather is good, but still cold winds now and then.

Ready for communal vegetar dinner tonight at the San Juan Batuista (belltower) albergue. Not exactly my favorite, but OK. For new pilgrims: this is no luxury: mattresses on the floor, but certainly special.

I learnt something new yesterday: normally, if you have a reservation and don’t show up at 14-15 in the afternoon, it is cancelled. But not if you send your backpack there. Better stay with those transporters…

The fireplace in the albergue is lit up. Good.

Will try to send pictures from dinner.

It's not always vegetarian. Depends on the volunteer hospitaleros and the pilgrim group staying or at that is how I managed it.

 

[alexwalker]

The fire is burning and the tables are ready for a communal vegetarian dinner, right now in Granon.

Well, we shall see about that…

 

[mspath]

Nice to see that wonderful room once again. Is your mat on the mezzanine?
Buen provecho!

 

[alexwalker]

Ready to receive the vegetar dinner:

 

[alexwalker]

The vegetarian soup was deliscious after I added 200 grams of serious choriso from my backpack…

 

[alexwalker]

Approx. 40 pilgrims here today…

 

[nycwalking]

The fire is burning and the tables are ready for a communal vegetarian dinner, right now in Granon.

Well, we shall see about that…View attachment 122410

Love Grañon.

Thanks for pic.

Buen camino.

 

[alexwalker]

Nice to see that wonderful room once again. Is your mat on the mezzanine?
Buen provecho!

No, it was on the floor below. Better space.

 

[mspath]

Thanks for the update. Hope all going well. Where are you now? Belorado or further?

 

[alexwalker]

Day 12: Granon-Belorado

An easy 17 kms walk today. I was afraid of rain this morning, but it dried up. But quite cold and strong winds.

Talked to a young Spanish guy dressed like a well-preserved mummy: he was freezing to death he said: the only thing that kept him alive was his hope of dying, was my impression.

Personally, coming from the Arctic, it was more like in late spring: good for walking.

Staying in the albergue Quatro Cantones: one of my favorites. Looking forward to (another) communal dinner. Looks like they will serve no vegetarian grass today. Will not shop chorizo then. Maybe wise, though, to have an emergency ration of it in my pocket…

Many people already in the albergue, so will report if it gets completo.

Clearly this must be a serious holiday week in Spain: LOTS of Spanish speaking people walking.

For the record: as always, i carry my backpack, but until Easter is over and I can estimate normal traffic, I’ll book beds a few days ahead.

 

[alexwalker]

Many places are closed: Between Granon and Belorado, 17 kms, only one (!) place was open: In the albergue at the entrance to Viloria del Rioja!

Some places look like ghosttowns compared to pre-Covid…

 

[J Willhaus]

Many places are closed: Between Granon and Belorado, 17 kms, only one (!) place was open: In the albergue at the entrance to Viloria del Rioja!

Some places look like ghosttowns compared to pre-Covid…

Did you walk at this time before? I am wondering how many albergues were open in April pre-Covid? It would be interesting to know if facilities are just waiting until after Easter? We did get a message from HosVol last month that they needed volunteers for April so in some cases it may be a need for workers and volunteers?

 

[alexwalker]

Did you walk at this time before? I am wondering how many albergues were open in April pre-Covid? It would be interesting to know if facilities are just waiting until after Easter? We did get a message from HosVol last month that they needed volunteers for April so in some cases it may be a need for workers and volunteers?

I think you are on to something. I hope this is a pre-Easter thing. I truly hope for the sake of the nice places along the Camino that we have become used to trust on…

 

[nycwalking]

Did you walk at this time before? I am wondering how many albergues were open in April pre-Covid? It would be interesting to know if facilities are just waiting until after Easter? We did get a message from HosVol last month that they needed volunteers for April so in some cases it may be a need for workers and volunteers?

I walked late March 2014.

Many intermediate stage albergues were closed until mid to late April.

 

[alexwalker]

This albergue never disappoints. No need for extra choriso: perfect chicken! Lots of proteins for tomorrow. Swinmingpool, garden, wooden beds, etc. A pearl on the Camino.

 

[alexwalker]

The albergue Qatro Cantones has a capacity of 65 beds. Last night there were 47 pilgruims there. Gives an indication about traffic…

 

[mspath]

As you move along today at the entrance to Villafranca Montes de Oca you might enjoy a meal at my favorite nearby resto/truck stop, El Pajaro.
Further at San Juan Ortega in the tiny bar next to the monastery I always enjoyed their morcilla sausage especially in winter.
Carpe diem!

 

[nycwalking]

As you move along today at the entrance to Villafranca Montes de Oca you might enjoy a meal at my favorite nearby resto/truck stop, El Pajaro.
Further at San Juan Ortega in the tiny bar next to the monastery I always enjoyed their morcilla sausage especially in winter.
Carpe diem!

I ate there in 2002.

You’re relight the sausage was delicious.

 

[alexwalker]

Day 13: Belorado-Villafranca Montes del Oca

A 13 kms easy walk across undulating hills, and staying in San Anton Abad, the only ALBERGUE in town, since the Municipal closed permanently a few years ago. I checked with the locals today. @wisepilgrim : you can remove it from your guide.

This albergue has two rooms with beds: one with bunks and one with 19 wooden beds on the floor. Needless to say where I am placed

Under the albergue is a cosy restaurant where I am sitting by the fireplace, enhoying a glass of Rioja. Remember: No vino, no Camino…



Outside is a nice terrace and small garden:



Heating is also on in the lounge (!) of the albergue.

Why do I stop after only 13 kms?

Bc tomorrow will start with one of the steepest, long climbs of the Camino and then continue for 12 kms with nothing. That’s why. Better relax in the afternoon by a friendly fireplace and some vino, and take that climb with fresh feet in the morning.

I’m doing OK, judging by my own standards

 

[mspath]

Day 13: Belorado-Villafranca Montes del Oca

A 13 kms easy walk across undulating hills, and staying in San Anton Abad, the only ALBERGUE in town, since the Municipal closed permanently a few years ago. I checked with the locals today. @wisepilgrim : you can remove it from your guide.

This albergue has two rooms with beds: one with bunks and one with 19 wooden beds on the floor. Needless to say where I am placed

Under the albergue is a cosy restaurant where I am sitting by the fireplace, enhoying a glass of Rioja. Remember: No vino, no Camino…

View attachment 122558

Outside is a nice terrace and small garden:

View attachment 122559

Heating is also on in the lounge (!) of the albergue.

Why do I stop after only 13 kms?

Bc tomorrow will start with one of the steepest, long climbs of the Camino and then continue for 12 kms with nothing. That’s why. Better relax in the afternoon by a friendly fireplace and some vino.

I’m doing OK, judging by my own standards

Alex,
Glad that you are comfy; far better than just OK. Here's a bit to ponder re how the weather makes a big difference!

 

[alexwalker]

Alex,
Glad that you are comfy; far better than just OK. Here's a bit to ponder re how the weather makes a big difference!

He he. I am a bit worried about tomorrow’s climb as it has been raining for several nights and the path has been quite muddy in places, and I know the path up there is clay…

 

[J Willhaus]

He he. I am a bit worried about tomorrow’s climb as it has been raining for several nights and the path has been quite muddy in places, and I know the path up there is clay…

Stayed in this albergue in 2016. I remember they have a fancy hotel as well as the albergue. We had a private "albergue" room with our own bath. Cozy bar as well. Good luck tomorrow. Prepare to scrape the mud off tomorrow night!

 

[alexwalker]

They really make it hot here, just outside our dorm: we shall definitively not freeze tonight, on the contrary!!



The shower was filled with really hot water; took a long shower: New man!

 

[alexwalker]

Stayed in this albergue in 2016. I remember they have a fancy hotel as well as the albergue. We had a private "albergue" room with our own bath. Cozy bar as well. Good luck tomorrow. Prepare to scrape the mud off tomorrow night!

You are correct. Originally it was only a (fancy) hotel, but some years ago they added an albergue section. Glad they did, otherwise there would not be any albergue in Villafranca today, after the Municipal closed down several years ago. And it has a very high standard and quality, for only 15 Euros.

 

[alexwalker]

Day 14: Villafranca Montes de Oca-Atapuerca

The day started with a long hard climb. It is one of the mule killer hills the Camino will introduce you to on your way…

At 8.30AM it was still frosty:



The walk was otherwise uncomplicad except for some muddy parts that could easily be avoided:



I have checked into the albergue/hostal La Plazuela Verde. This is truly a Camino pearl: old rustic building hidden inside the village, only 10 wooden bunk beds with curtains for privacy, each with electrisity and a small light. Inside everything looks brand new and clean.

All needed facilities, and a nice little garden with afternoon sun:

 

[mspath]

Alex,

La Plazuela Verde looks like a wonderful spot fitted out with great care and style. Lucky you. Enjoy.

 

[peregrina2000]

The day started with a long hard climb. It is one of the mule killer hills the Camino will introduce you to on your way…

Your camino reports are so fun to read — I’ve read a lot of your posts over the years and can now point to this thread as the one that puts all of those bits of advice into practice!

I haven’t been on the Francés in years but have a very vivid memory of that monument up in the hills after Villafranca. It is the site of a mass grave from the Civil War. One of the inscriptions has stayed with me all these years — no fue inútil su muerte, fue inútil su fusilamiento.

Thanks for taking us along, @alexwalker!

 

[alexwalker]

— no fue inútil su muerte, fue inútil su fusilamiento.

Thanks for taking us along, @alexwalker!

And almost 90 years later the madness returns… I am glad I am on the Camino now…

 

[kellycolada]

Day 14: Villafranca Montes de Oca-Atapuerca

The day started with a long hard climb. It is one of the mule killer hills the Camino will introduce you to on your way…

At 8.30AM it was still frosty:

View attachment 122611View attachment 122612

The walk was otherwise uncomplicad except for some muddy parts that could easily be avoided:

View attachment 122613

I have checked into the albergue/hostal La Plazuela Verde. This is truly a Camino pearl: old rustic building hidden inside the village, only 10 wooden bunk beds with curtains for privacy, each with electrisity and a small light. Inside everything looks brand new and clean.

All needed facilities, and a nice little garden with afternoon sun:

View attachment 122614

I would have liked this albergue

 

[alexwalker]

Day 15: Atapuerca-Burgos

An eventful day in many ways. The day started with thick fog, but now it’s 18C and sunshine here. T-shirt weather.

This was the second day in a row with a hard climb. Almost on top, I tranpled on a small rock and fell into some rusty barbed wire. I bled like a pig and both my jacket and trousers have bloodstains.



Will wait a few days to wash them: just proof that this old pilgrim is suffering his way to forgiveness in Santiago…

At the top we had the following view of Burgos in the horizon:



The waymarking has significantly improved the last couple of years: these are now everywhere.


Except where it really means something: the walk into Burgos. It seems the xunta, or whoever, insists on sending the pilgrims along asphalt and industrial areas. Look at this: this is where you turn left to come to the river route, but all signs point straight ahead. Evil people…



On another note: since Uterga i have been pleasantly accompanied by new forum member @kellycolada . A kind & mild woman. Two days ago she had to throw in the towel due to knee problems. It is a loss: I would have loved to walk with her into Santiago. Farewell evening tonight in Burgos

But that’s life…

 

[J Willhaus]

Honesly, I don't remember any signs for the river route. You just had to know where to turn or look at the guide book for confirmation. It did seem that all signs pointed into the industrial way before? Maybe my recall isn't good though.

 

[alexwalker]

Honesly, I don't remember any signs for the river route. You just had to know where to turn or look at the guide book for confirmation. It did seem that all signs pointed into the industrial way before? Maybe my recall isn't good though.

Your recall is like a spring chicken. I studied the signage all the way from Atapuerca. Not a SINGLE mention of it whatsoeever. Even in Castanares there is a yellow arrow pointing right, trying to get you back on the asphalt. You must cross the road and then, finally, arrows appear that will lead you onto the river route. There is even also an arrow pointing to the LEFT on the road!!!

You really have to know where you’re going here. Very irritating, and I feel sorry for. firsttinners who are being trapped here.

 

[kellycolada]

Day 15: Atapuerca-Burgos

An eventful day in many ways. The day started with thick fog, but now it’s 18C and sunshine here. T-shirt weather.

This was the second day in a row with a hard climb. Almost on top, I tranpled on a small rock and fell into some rusty barbed wire. I bled like a pig and both my jacket and trousers have bloodstains.

View attachment 122676

Will wait a few days to wash them: just proof that this old pilgrim is suffering his way to forgiveness in Santiago…

At the top we had the following view of Burgos in the horizon:

View attachment 122677

The waymarking has significantly improved the last couple of years: these are now everywhere.
View attachment 122678

Except where it really means something: the walk into Burgos. It seems the xunta, or whoever, insists on sending the pilgrims along asphalt and industrial areas. Look at this: this is where you turn left to come to the river route, but all signs point straight ahead. Evil people…

View attachment 122679

On another note: since Uterga i have been pleasantly accompanied by new forum member @kellycolada . A kind & mild woman. Two days ago she had to throw in the towel due to knee problems. It is a loss: I would have loved to walk with her into Santiago. Farewell evening tonight in Burgos

But that’s life…

So sad to say goodbye. It’s been a wonderful Camino with you, Head Master!

 

[alexwalker]

Easter Thursday parade in Burgos: