The last week of October I did a circular of about 180 km in 4 days!!! This was a clockwise circular route along the "Great Taste Trail".
Started at the Cathedral city of Nelson at the north west top of Te Waipounamu (South Island), Aotearoa / New Zealand and followed an abandoned railway (including a 1.4 km abandoned tunnel) for 60 km over two days.
Cafe almost as required on the first day. A notable event for me was walking around the dispaly on what had been the birthplace of
Ernest Lord Rutherford at Brightwater and an early recipient of a Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1908.
On the second I started about 07h with persistent rain and had to endure that and 24 km for the first taste about 14h30. The highlight was the tunnel, and not just because there was no water inside. On emerging, having passed through a range, I was almost in another place: no rain, and almost no cars despite having the only major road for many, many many mile around beside me.
On the third day, the next 50 km was impossible to walk - a main road with many bends and no shoulders - so put Shank's Pony in my pack and rode on my thumb to Motu'eka early on the third day. The thumb worked and the ride was from a local orchardist: we chatted easily for the distance and, with local knowledge, he dropped me at a fine cafe mid morning. Lunch that day was a shared meal at a community dedicated to pacifism and started in the late 1940s - I shared doing the dishes afterwards. Mid-afternoon I reached the giddying height of 120 metres above sea level walking along a ridge on a north/south alignment. To the west I could see many hills rising above 1,000 metres and some over 1,700 metres (one still had some snow). To the east was Tasman Bay with Nelson on the far side and beyond ranges of hills rising above 1,000 metres as far as the eye could see. Shortly after that high point, and when minding my own business, a guy with a flat tray and about 30 bee hives offered me a ride towards on to a camp ground beside Tasman Bay. Never one to refuse an unrequested offer (I am sure the medieval pilgrims to Compostela had a similar attitude) I accepted. In one day I had achieved three days walking and encountered, in a meaningful way, about six locals.
Day four: the plan was to take a 5 minute ferry crossing and walk about 40 km back to Nelson. Started well but within 10 minutes the rain had returned, and was to last the rest of the morning. I had done about 15 km when a van pulled up and the driver offered a ride. He had just bought this and it was kitted out with a bed, storage and simple cooking facilities. He had often walked himself and appreciated whenever he was offered a ride. He was going to Nelson and we had a great chat, about himself mainly, but also about my last walk in Europe in September 2018 and why I was doing this stint.
And, with two days rain out of four days on the trail, I found a deficiency: I couldn't keep my hands dry.
Day One
Pukeko near Stoke
A more interesting aspect at the side of a vineyard
This church, from 1913, replaced two previous (the first in 1846) that had burnt down.
lunch stop after crossing the Wai'ora river. The bench is entirely recycled plastic.
On the outskirts of village of Brightwater, the approach to the memorial at his birthplace.
At the end of day one at Wakefield. I set my tent (no camping allowed) under some trees behind me.
Day two
About 50 metres, as I left the village the next morning.
One of the few things left of the railway. This was a station yard and the windmill pumped water into a tank to supply the steam locomotives for about 60 years until 1955.
A few km on and now staring the rise to the tunnel: low cloud and persistent rain ...