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A couple of km before San Ildefonso I bumped into a couple with a huge friendly St Bernard, but I'd already spoiled his chances of being "the faithful hound" finding me "half buried in the snow", and certainly not clutching anything with or without a strange device in my hands of ice.very glad that you had a more fortunate ending.
With brandy? I would hope so, icy clutching hands or no.huge friendly St Bernard
Some time tomorrow or early the next day I'll have to decide which route to continue on
You can also cross over on the GR14, roughly 58km along the Duero between Simcanas and Castronuno on the Levante. Besides following the Duero through amazing Tordecillas where Portugal and Spain divided their New World empires, and not far from where Juan Bravo met his grisly end in Villalar de los Comuneros, it's migration time, so there'll be lots of birds.Or carry on north.
This is still an option on my own current Camino, which in any case passes through Tordesillas, but if I chose to head South directly from Sahagún, that would take me to Simancas.You can also cross over on the GR14, roughly 58km along the Duero between Simcana and Castronuno on the Levante. Besides following the Duero through amazing Tordecillas where Portugal and Spain parted company, and not far from where Juan Bravo met his grisly end, it's migration time, so there'll be lots of birds.
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You can also cross over on the GR14, roughly 58km along the Duero between Simcanas and Castronuno on the Levante. Besides following the Duero through amazing Tordesillas
The males are so elegant, with their grey head and wings and black wingtips.I was joined by some hen harriers at various points,
They're back. España vacia comes with better air quality. A trade-off.. Also fantastic views
So the world will end in ice? (Goes off chuckling, but also wondering who named these places - devil-obsessed Carthusians at Rascafria?)
Well that was inconvenient. What a pity. The combination of winter and Covid closures seems to be a continuing theme on less travelled caminos right now.Sadly, Coca's albergue is still shut, as is all its other accommodation, so my plans for a leisurely afternoon enjoying the castle and perhaps a glass of Rueda went phut
You are the best possible example of a pilgrim, real or otherwise: content with little; cheerful (or at least pragmatic) in the face of unexpected difficulties; interested in and respectful of others; and knowledgeable about the history, culture, and landscapes of the places you pass through.So a chance to see and talk to a "real pilgrim" was not to be missed. Embarrassing. But they were a nice bunch.
That definitely counts as eventful. The Sureste sounds much more alive than the Madrid - did you get the sense that the lack of food north of Segovia was a temporary result of covid+winter, or is that part of España vacia simply becoming even more empty?another good menú del día - starting with a really excellent sopa de ajo. Definite improvement on three days in a row on the Madrid north of Segovia with no proper hot food at all
Magical photo! I've heard them called fogbows or cloudbows - they're not so uncommon in high elevations in Hawai'i when the clouds roll in and you're above them.I expect there's a proper name for it
Bit of both. I was unlucky hitting Alcazarén on the one day its one bar was closed, and got no coffee for three days because many bars don't open until 9 or 10am, when I'm usually long gone. The stretch up towards Sahagún did look a bit bleak in terms of bars and tiendas, which is why I headed west from Puente Duero. But it's probably fine most of the year/not in a plague year.did you get the sense that the lack of food north of Segovia was a temporary result of covid+winter, or is that part of España vacia simply becoming even more empty?
Huh, gorgeous, and the white ones are usually moonbows (seen one only once, and they're quite beautiful)-- and the one you saw is known as a fog bow rather than mistbow.the beautiful spectacle of what I call a mistbow - an arc like a rainbow, but entirely white. I expect there's a proper name for it, but I've only ever seen it once before, near Almansa on the Levante. Very beautiful and virtually impossible to photograph.
I'm so glad there is someone on this forum who knows who Ramon Casas is!I am glad to learn that the museo at the Monastery is open-- I highly recommend it. IIRC it has one of Picasso's earliest works (The Altar Boy, 1896) and some fine Ramon Casas. Perhaps it's one of the best small museums I have ever seen.
Thanks for your reports Alan. I really like your writing. I had to add to your post though with some writing in my style. That style is "include lots of links". Here I go.And we agreed that Juana la Loca was probably a bit odd but the unpleasant men in her life - father, husband and sons - exaggerated it to shut her up in Tordesillas and steal her kingdom.
The old gadgie joins the kids in Tordesillas in hitting the jackpot. As far as Juana is concerned, she wouldn't be the first smart woman to be safely shut away from public life by insecure and ambitious people. I've always wondered what she was really like, held prisoner in a fog-bound monastery all those years. She succeeded in the long run, though, if you consider her many descendents.A chatty old gadgie turned up last night on seeing the albergue light on.
Including me, as I claim her as my 12xgreat-grannie.She succeeded in the long run, though, if you consider her many descendents.
There you go. QED.Including me, as I claim her as my 12xgreat-grannie.
Or how he could reappear 10 centuries in the future to bash the Moors around. Or even that he might approve of such bloodletting. But being long gone meant he couldn't object to being a projection screen for everyone's fantasies. A bit like JFK these days.I've never worked out why he would be a pilgrim to his own grave, but then why not?
Checked with the albergue in Zamora and still people every day. We were 6 in Santa Marta last night, two bicigrinos we'll never see again, my snorer from Cádiz and two delightful Norwegians I'm with in Mombuey. More pilgrims in one night than I've seen since leaving Montserrat in late September (unless you count the 15 jesuits doing the trail to Manresa mostly in a bus, which I don't).Not that you'll have company, I imagine, it being well into November by now.
Thank-you and thanks for all your posts,, but especially for letting us all know that Teo is still at me gusta comer!!And that his food and everything is still amazing!!Santa Marta de Tera to Mombuey
A glorious day, from the bright frosty dawn start under Sirius to the almost full moon with still bright Venus rising over Sanabria. Much of it along the blue black lustrous slow flowing Tera, rich with ducks and trout. This is the sixth time I've done this stretch, but I think it's always previously been rainy, dull or foggy. To see it in almost uncomfortably dazzling autumn sun was a real treat.
I had been planning to stay in the excellent albergue in Rionegro del Puente, but decided to carry on to Mombuey. Mainly because I shared the albergue in Sta Marta with an utterly charming Gaditano who will certainly make the Spanish team if snoring ever becomes an Olympic sport. So when he said he couldn't manage 36km, I thought, "if I want a decent night's sleep, I probably can". The first coffee wasn't for 10km, but I was rewarded by the barman calling me "valiente", certainly the first time that word has ever been applied to me.
But I did keep to my plan of eating in Rionegro's "Me Gusta Comer". Even better than last time - a pastel of tuna with a basil sauce and amuse bouche of foie gras on fig, a warming pote gallego (not quite the same as caldo, as it has alubias as well, Teo the charming the chef said), pork with a zesty sauce of orange and apple, and a nice pudding, all washed down with a half litre of a very nice Toro, followed by an orujo and coffee. A lot more than I usually eat (and drink) with 8km still to walk, but such a treat, and all for only 12€. Michelin quality.
And then the glorious uplands, with bright views towards Padornelo, looking a bit less tame. The albergue in Mombuey is sadly closed (a lovely stone barn, which I've enjoyed 4 times in blissful solitude with its excellent heater and blankets) but the truck stop is no longer overwhelmed with AVE construction workers, so I stayed rather more comfortably there.
View attachment 113554
Checked with the albergue in Zamora and still people every day. We were 6 in Santa Marta last night, two bicigrinos we'll never see again, my snorer from Cádiz and two delightful Norwegians I'm with in Mombuey. More pilgrims in one night than I've seen since leaving Montserrat in late September (unless you count the 15 jesuits doing the trail to Manresa mostly in a bus, which I don't).
FWIW my dad would easily have won gold.an utterly charming Gaditano who will certainly make the Spanish team if snoring ever becomes an Olympic sport
May the clear weather follow you into Galicia!To see it in almost uncomfortably dazzling autumn sun was a real treat
I'm surprised, but probably shouldn't be. People coming off the VdlP may have been walking since September (as you have been).More pilgrims in one night than I've seen since leaving Montserrat in late September (unless you count the 15 jesuits doing the trail to Manresa mostly in a bus, which I don't).
Ha! You saw the tail end of the eclipse. Wonderful.Leaving at first light, the fat pink moon was just setting to the west.
This is so good to know - the Sanabres has been off my list for years because of the AVE (de-)construction. The down side is that my list just got longer, with a ticking clock and no way of spending the amount of time in the EU needed to make much of a dent.Now, finally, the works are completed and it's virtually back to 2010 standards. Very high standards, including a last look back over Castille from the puerto de Padornelo, at 1360m the highest point of the Sanabrés/VdlP
!!!No me digas!!!! Back to Aciberos, how wonderful. One of my favorite stretches on the Sanabrés.Then off the road again to Aciberos in its secret valley of golden tunnels, a few old gadgies out picking chestnuts, water courses everywhere, and occasional openings to give views up to the heights or down to the stream, all with the melodious sound of water in a hurry to get to a river.
Saw a road sign in A Gudiña for Viana do Bolo and A Rúa, which might make a two day join.have been playing with ideas of how to detour from the Sanabres to the Invierno
Aciberos looked positively thriving. You pass under the Ave bridge but barely see it until 100m off, the trees are so dense, and I didn't hear a train at all.Can you see or hear the trains?
I should have been more specific. Any crossover I'm interested in needs to go through San Estevo. But that looks interesting as well, through spme wild countryside.Saw a road sign in A Gudiña for Viana do Bolo and A Rúa, which might make a two day join.
This sounds better and better. My only exposure to this landscape has been seeing it from the train, and it looks bleak and forbidding from that vantage point. Not helped by rainy weather every time I've gone that way.Up and down, and up again, and then the final golden stairway to heaven up to A Canda and the border with Galicia
Very good for us that you are stringing it out a little by going via Verin. (I think that I speak for a more than a few others who have been very much enjoying this journey.)just under a quarter of a million metres to go
Even though I wouldn't do this, I did get curious.Saw a road sign in A Gudiña for Viana do Bolo and A Rúa, which might make a two day join.
If only I were younger... and braver... if only I had no other considerations than my own... if only... but it is not to be! No harm in looking on, though!I should have been more specific. Any crossover I'm interested in needs to go through San Estevo. But that looks interesting as well, through spme wild countryside.
This sounds better and better. My only exposure to this landscape has been seeing it from the train, and it looks bleak and forbidding from that vantage point. Not helped by rainy weather every time I've gone that way.
Very good for us that you are stringing it out a little by going via Verin. (I think that I speak for a more than a few others who have been very much enjoying this journey.)
And this is way too late to be any use to you, Alan, But did you by any chance see this? (For future reference):
Astorga-Ponferrada (Camino de Manzanal y Camino Francés)
Astorga-Ponferrada (Camino de Manzanal y Camino Francés) Mountain Bike trail in Astorga, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Recorrido de Astorga a Ponferrada (Camino de Manzanal) y de Ponferrada a Astorga (Camino Francés)www.wikiloc.com
From Astorga to Ponferada via Bembibre, Brazuelo, Congosto, Torre del Bierzo, and Villagaton-Brañuelas. The wikipedia entry has a number of variants.
Kirkie,If only I were younger... and braver... if only I had no other considerations than my own... if only... but it is not to be! No harm in looking on, though!
The old Albergue in A Gudiña was in the school. Last time I hiked through it was closed due to the dreaded bedbugs! A friend joined me having taken the train from Santiago (yes.... there is a stop though no discernible station). I stayed in one of the two hotels. Freezing room but good food and atmosphere in the Comedor.Lubián to A Gudiña
Yet another virtually perfect day. This can't carry on, and it won't, but it's great while it lasts. The kind Bulgarian bar person in the Estrella de Lubián agreed to open at 8 for us, and, fortified by tostadas and coffee, we headed off into the beautiful tunnels again, past a rather smart triple wolf head fountain, which I don't remember seeing five years ago. Up and down, and up again, and then the final golden stairway to heaven up to A Canda and the border with Galicia. Where the xunta has put in new hitos with the precise distance countdown to Santiago - just under a quarter of a million metres to go.
The upland vega from O Pereiro to O Cañizo is almost as beautiful as the stretch between the high passes - occasional brooks, huge boulders, glorious views, almost cloudless skies and no wind. The new albergue is A Gudiña is a great improvement on the old one, with a charming and helpful hospitalera - not inevitably the case in xunta albergues. Another convivial meal with my Norwegian friends - rarely does an English person get to act as translator for other Europeans - and sadly we will part in the morning, they heading for Laza and I making for Verín. We may possibly overlap in Santiago, which would be nice.
View attachment 113696
Saw a road sign in A Gudiña for Viana do Bolo and A Rúa, which might make a two day join.
Aciberos looked positively thriving. You pass under the Ave bridge but barely see it until 100m off, the trees are so dense, and I didn't hear a train at all.
Touché about the hospitalero of yore in Ourense. He was so unpleasant that I refused to take the bunk he offered next to a 6 cylinder known snorer, in a fairly empty dorm. He retaliated by calling in the Guardia Civil, no less, who thought it was a hoot! All ended well as we all moved around once he had gone for the night.A Gudiña to Verín
Sirius was still visible in the dawn as Nils and Per headed right and I carried straight on. I don't suppose an upland Galician albergue is the usual site for a discussion about whether the claustrophobic intensity of "Ghosts" or "A Doll's House" might paradoxically work in the open space of the Roman theatre in Mérida, but we all agreed we'd like to see somebody try.
Not as spectacular a day as the previous ones, but still outstanding by any marginally lower standards. Well spaced bars for coffee for the first half of the day, culminating in the hostal restaurant Bayona, which Gronze recommends as the stopping point. And perhaps he's right, and my old knees would have certainly insisted on it. But my knew ones thought it looked a bit of a dump and said it was absurd to stop at 1pm. So we carried on, with wonderful long views over northern Portugal and the lovely mountains I remembered from the Camino Zamorano-Portugués. The xunta's new countdown hitos provide welcome proof that Santiago is, slowly, getting nearer. And only one of the metre markers has so far been chiselled off and stolen - early days, early days. At some point the number dipped below 200,000 metres. Not far from that you first see Verín: a long way below, but looking quite close, and with the grim bulk of Monterrei castle invisible in a sudden temporary patch of bad light. It's 11 years since I came this way, and I was thinking "Verín's much closer than I expected". It wasn't. Two long hours of descent, partly through fire damaged woods, with nearby self-sown eucalyptus providing a clue as to who helped spread the flames. And when you finally get to ground level and the outskirts of town, the albergue is still 2km off, on the other side of the river under the castle. It will make for a shorter day tomorrow. The albergue is excellent, with another charming, helpful and efficient hospitalera. Perhaps the xunta has realised that its former policy of employing grumpy, smoke-smelling curmudgeons for whom any distraction from their video-game was an imposition, wasn't a good one. Ourense was the gold standard for unpleasant hospitaleros, to the extent that I stopped staying there about 4 caminos ago, preferring a flea-pit by the station, a km or so closer to Cea.
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First, it's near a biosphere preserve - these are globally special places and often critical habitat for someone endangered:specifically to visit Allariz
Sign me up!!Among the most significant animal species here are birds of prey, wolves, otters and numerous Iberian amphibians.
There is a route between there and Girona, where one could pick up the Cami Catalan and continue to Jaca.Is this a variant of the Catalane or St Jaume?
.... I share your opinion on Girona. The cathedral and museum are very special. The Tapestry of Creation is unique.Oh thank you! That’s v interesting. And, as it happens, Girona is one of my favourite towns in Spain. Though I do seem to have quite a long list of ‘favourites’. I recall we saw some shells / arrows in Girona and also in Figueres.
I wasn’t surprised at shells etc in Girona and Figueres … but i wasn’t t expecting that beautiful Camino map on the coast near Callela de Palafrugell … we might go back one day and follow that path through to Jaca and beyond …I am surprised, Jenny at your surprise at finding Camino arrows in Figueres et al...
In a word, yes.Is this a variant of the Catalane or St Jaume?
Case in point, and good synchronicity :The Camí Catalàn is ... a spaghetti-like complex of pathways
Ummm. . .Infesta
This route seems like the best of both worlds. Close enough to the main arterial to have decent services, but not hugging the main drag.They kindly laid a table for me in the bar area, as the comedor was full when I arrived: always a good sign, especially midweek
Thanks to @BrienC and his very enticing report of some exploration around Ourense, https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/not-exactly-live-vdlp-fall-2016.44669/#post-475473 I recently spent a few days in this area of Spain, near the Sil River Gorge. If you like romanesque, visigothic, pre-roman hill forts and saunas, stunning river views, etc, you should take some time here. You can do it from Ourense, but you can also do it from Allariz, which is on the Verín alternative of the Sanabrés.
In Allariz, three young historians/archaeologists have formed a little "Cultural Patrimony" company. Their goal is to keep people connected to their Galician cultural, natural, historical, archaeological, etc. heritage. The tourist office put me in touch with this company, Xeitura, http://xeitura.com, so that I could arrange to visit Santa Mariña das Augas Santas. This is a little village with many sites, starting with pre-Roman saunas, with an unfinished romanesque church built over them, some Roman ruins, and a larger pretty stunning Romanesque church towering over this little hamlet of 30 people. All of the sites are tied up with the story of Santa Mariña, the local saint/martyr. I had a three hour visit, and it was really a highlight. So, if you are going to be in the vicinity, I most highly recommend Xeitura. They have some established itineraries, but will also make a trip to correspond to your interests. It is an amazing part of Spain and I hope these guys have a lot of success with their venture.
Buen camino, Laurie
Brilliant. A delicious short story in 100 words or less. They won't stop talking about you for a while.At Zos, an apparently deserted village half way on, a van arrived and started sounding its horn manically. Suddenly half the hamlet's doors opened and a dozen old people emerged to buy their fish and chat loudly to each other - and, a bit, to me: "mal tiempo para caminar". Useless to say that this would be seen as quite nice weather back home in Cumbria. One asked me where I'd walked from and raised both hands in what looked like genuine horror when I answered: "¿Montserrat? - ¡ay caramba!". I think only the second time I've heard the phrase other than on a TV show.
Sad.the former massive wetland Lagoa de Antela, largely drained under Franco
“A desecación da Lagoa foi moi beneficiosa para moita xente. Ahora protestan que foi unha perda porque marcharon os páxaros, é os páxaros non dan de comer a ninguén ¿Qué ganas mirando pos páxaros?
Am I right in assuming (thinking about those miliaria) the route you're walking has been the primary one linking Orense with the Puebla de Sanabria side well into the distant pass? If so, I'm surprised it's only a variant of the Sanabres, rather than the main route.At some point today, or possibly late yesterday, the rising km markers on the ubiquitous N525 from Benavente became higher than the metre markers on the xunta hitos descending to Santiago.
I think the "main" road clearly went by Verín, with pilgrim hospitals in Verín and Allariz, but Laza must also have been used quite heavily, as the village name A Alberguería witnesses.Am I right in assuming (thinking about those miliaria) the route you're walking has been the primary one linking Orense with the Puebla de Sanabria side well into the distant pass? If so, I'm surprised it's only a variant of the Sanabres, rather than the main route.
Jealous resentment? Well you will soon be out of the gravity field of Sr. Gruñón McGrumpface, and getting ever closer to Santiago.Where do they find them? Is the rudeness trained or inate? Why?
Do you think they are all related to the hospitalero in Lugo?But I hit another of Ourense's hospitaleros from hell.
Hola Alan.Sandiás to Ourense
Murky start, with Sandiás' atalaya barely visible in an almost Cumbrian grey damp dank mist - very different from the bright crisp white clouds of the mists of Valladolid ten days ago.
But it mostly cleared by Allariz, the third of the "pueblos más bonitos de España" that I've passed on this camino. Very pretty it is too, but a lot bigger than most. An hour or so later, after mostly quite pleasant woodland trails, with a surprising number of autumn crocuses, you arrive at Santa Mariña de Aguas Santas. The fuente has three outlets, one for each of the places where the head of the virgin martyr bounced after being cut off. There are wonderful views from up there down over the fertile Miño valley and Ourense's sprawling suburbs. Also further on, in this camino of the astonishing long views, to what I think must be the Alto do Faro on the Invierno, a bump on the horizon fringing the western sky.
The descent partly continues on a Roman road past various sites connected with poor Mariña's protracted martyrdom, including a celtiberian sauna. The suburbs of Ourense are not lovely and are very long, but @peregrina2000 discovered a way of avoiding at least some of the worst - turn left at Seixalbo at the signpost saying "paseo fluvial", and simply follow a pretty river path along the río Barbaña all the way into central town - to within 300m of the new xunta albergue. Huge improvement: can't think why the official camino insists on following the tarmac of the parallel interminable, and interminably dull, Rúa do Progreso.
I had been planning to stay at the hotel San Marcos, at Cudeiro 2-3km on from Ourense, and over 100m higher up on the way to Cea. But I decided that I really ought to try the new albergue, if only to prove that not staying at the San Francisco one the last 3 times I've been through Ourense was the right decision. It's a beautiful albergue, right by the cathedral and bang in the middle of the Casco Vello in a lovely stone building. But I hit another of Ourense's hospitaleros from hell. Where do they find them? Is the rudeness trained or inate? Why? Mine desperately tried to find something wrong with my covid vaccine certificate (accepted immediately by all four previous xunta hospitaleras) before grudgingly letting me in through a fug of stale tobacco smoke, while gleefully telling me I couldn't use the kitchen (the first albergue kitchen I've found closed since Catalunya). Hey ho, it's otherwise a very nice albergue and I've got it all to myself, having pushed ahead to get here on a Thursday to avoid a possible weekend "bubble".
View attachment 113895
I think the "main" road clearly went by Verín, with pilgrim hospitals in Verín and Allariz, but Laza must also have been used quite heavily, as the village name A Alberguería witnesses.
So, an old musical guy with pet sheep? Just what one expects to see on a normal morning. And in Ourense?? The mind boggles, wondering where they live.I was just sitting on one of the concello's smart new yellow arrow benches when an old bloke came past to walk his three pet sheep to a bit of tasty grass. He was a member of the local choir and had been on an extensive singing tour, passing Amsterdam and several places in Germany before finishing up in Prague, whose beers he liked. I got some undeserved respect when I told him I bred pedigree tups: "ah, los machos de Suffolk, los mejores de todos".
an hour or so later there were brief interludes of watery sunshine
You are one lucky peregrino.taking the extra couple of hours yesterday afternoon probably helped me dodge a(nother) bullet.
The clock is ticking. One more sleep. So quickly it's (almost) done. Buen camino! May your magical rain shield hold today.I'll probably stop in Ponte Ulla
I think it's fine. Other than the new washing machine and drier, I'd say it was pretty much the same as when I first stayed there in 2010, and most of the 7-8 times since, including complete lack of kitchen equipment. I think the hospitalera is the same. She kindly organised María José from the bar on the 525 to deliver food to my fellow guest, as it was pouring with rain: I didn't need any as I'd had a very good meal at Lalín Estación. The infuriating movement activated light system is still in operation,.Alan, what is the albergue in A Laxe like these days? I had heard there were renovations or a change of management or some improvements in the works.
This is the best short story yet.Shortly after dawn and the ancient Puente Taboada, a huge guard mastín somehow loosed his chain and came bounding up to me. Fortunately he was a big softie and was more interested in walking with me to Silleda than having me for breakfast. I'm looking forward to walking with my own dog next week, but thought I'd better not take this one. He was dragging about 8m of quite heavy chain and I was trying to fasten this in place without jeopardising our new friendship when his apologetic owner emerged from her farmhouse wearing not many clothes and reclaimed him.
Ah, a pity. That's an incredible view.so I wasn't able to get the beautiful view of the Pico Sacro from near the new bridge at Castro.
I hope you got three sets of eyebrows raised in surprise~The pilgrim office was deserted when I arrived, other than the three staff waiting to hand out compostelas.
Charmed life. Amazing.And sunshine on the cathedral.
In Galicia (as in Ireland) I notice the Phormium, far from its native home in Aotearoa - no doubt missing the Tui and Bellbirds who would normally pollinate the flowers.Bruckmansia's slightly sinister trumpets seems to be the suburban shrub of choice.
Sandiás to Ourense
Murky start, with Sandiás' atalaya barely visible in an almost Cumbrian grey damp dank mist - very different from the bright crisp white clouds of the mists of Valladolid ten days ago.
But it mostly cleared by Allariz, the third of the "pueblos más bonitos de España" that I've passed on this camino. Very pretty it is too, but a lot bigger than most. An hour or so later, after mostly quite pleasant woodland trails, with a surprising number of autumn crocuses, you arrive at Santa Mariña de Aguas Santas. The fuente has three outlets, one for each of the places where the head of the virgin martyr bounced after being cut off. There are wonderful views from up there down over the fertile Miño valley and Ourense's sprawling suburbs. Also further on, in this camino of the astonishing long views, to what I think must be the Alto do Faro on the Invierno, a bump on the horizon fringing the western sky.
The descent partly continues on a Roman road past various sites connected with poor Mariña's protracted martyrdom, including a celtiberian sauna. The suburbs of Ourense are not lovely and are very long, but @peregrina2000 discovered a way of avoiding at least some of the worst - turn left at Seixalbo at the signpost saying "paseo fluvial", and simply follow a pretty river path along the río Barbaña all the way into central town - to within 300m of the new xunta albergue. Huge improvement: can't think why the official camino insists on following the tarmac of the parallel interminable, and interminably dull, Rúa do Progreso.
I had been planning to stay at the hotel San Marcos, at Cudeiro 2-3km on from Ourense, and over 100m higher up on the way to Cea. But I decided that I really ought to try the new albergue, if only to prove that not staying at the San Francisco one the last 3 times I've been through Ourense was the right decision. It's a beautiful albergue, right by the cathedral and bang in the middle of the Casco Vello in a lovely stone building. But I hit another of Ourense's hospitaleros from hell. Where do they find them? Is the rudeness trained or inate? Why? Mine desperately tried to find something wrong with my covid vaccine certificate (accepted immediately by all four previous xunta hospitaleras) before grudgingly letting me in through a fug of stale tobacco smoke, while gleefully telling me I couldn't use the kitchen (the first albergue kitchen I've found closed since Catalunya). Hey ho, it's otherwise a very nice albergue and I've got it all to myself, having pushed ahead to get here on a Thursday to avoid a possible weekend "bubble".
View attachment 113895
I think the "main" road clearly went by Verín, with pilgrim hospitals in Verín and Allariz, but Laza must also have been used quite heavily, as the village name A Alberguería witnesses.
11/2019.Ourense to Piñor
The duty hospitalero in the morning was a delightful surprise: chatty, smiling, not stinking of stale tobacco. We agreed the present albergue was a great improvement on the one up the hill, especially for the lack of the booming echo in the previous place. And he sped me on my way with a friendly wave and a "buen camino". So some of Ourense's hospitaleros can have charm, which was a relief after four in a row who didn't.
As always now, I took the right hand option vía Tamallancos. Slightly longer, but much less tarmac, and avoiding the steep narrow fast dangerous road on the left hand way. Still very steep. I was just sitting on one of the concello's smart new yellow arrow benches when an old bloke came past to walk his three pet sheep to a bit of tasty grass. He was a member of the local choir and had been on an extensive singing tour, passing Amsterdam and several places in Germany before finishing up in Prague, whose beers he liked. I got some undeserved respect when I told him I bred pedigree tups: "ah, los machos de Suffolk, los mejores de todos". Shortly afterwards I was told off by an abuela for walking alone, and clearly didn't convince her when I told her I preferred solitude, although she looked a bit wistful when I argued that I could start when I wanted to start and stop when I felt like it, horribly garbling Frost with "en cumplir promesas no tengo empeño, y millas debo andar antes de dormir".
The pulpería in Cea, where I've had a plate of pulpo on 8 visits to the village, is no longer serving pulpo or any meals, at the moment, anyway. The barman clearly wasn't in a mood to discuss it, and suggested I go to the Sol y Luna, where I got a huge bowl of potaje. Osiera monastery, where I usually sleep, is closed for covid, as is Castro Dozón's albergue, so I ended up in the Ateneo truck stop a bit beyond Piñor. I wanted to get a few km on from Cea, as the forecast for tomorrow is pretty grim, so reducing the time spent walking underneath storm Arwen seemed sensible. Otherwise Cea's warm empty (when I looked in at 2pm) albergue would have been very tempting.
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Ponte Ulla to Santiago
The last few times I've found the stage from Ponte Ulla or O Outeiro really hard. This time my knew knees clearly knew they were knearing their first compostela, so they ate up the kms. Low cloud meant that I still didn't see the Pico Sacro, pausing only for a glass of godello at Los Cruces in O Eixo, just by the 337km mark of the N525. I first crossed the 525 at about 4km from Benavente, quite a long time ago now.
Bruckmansia's slightly sinister trumpets seems to be the suburban shrub of choice, as the xunta's hitos countdown numbers slowly descended. At Angrois, shortly after the crossing where the rail accident happened, I finally got my first view of the twin towers, and nearby the last hito - 1790 metres to go. The pilgrim office was deserted when I arrived, other than the three staff waiting to hand out compostelas. And sunshine on the cathedral.
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My husband and I once experienced the same embarrassment while staying in Jorba (on the Catalan Camino) when a group of students arrived from the local school. Questioning and photo sessions with the "actual pilgrims" ensued. One for the memory books.10 minutes after I arrived Antonio, the hugely hospitable hospitalero, had arranged for a class from the local school to visit and learn about the camino. So a chance to see and talk to a "real pilgrim" was not to be missed. Embarrassing. But they were a nice bunch.
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