If you take the alternative through Allariz....

[peregrina2000]

Thanks to @BrienC and his very enticing report of some exploration around Ourense, https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/not-exactly-live-vdlp-fall-2016.44669/#post-475473 I recently spent a few days in this area of Spain, near the Sil River Gorge. If you like romanesque, visigothic, pre-roman hill forts and saunas, stunning river views, etc, you should take some time here. You can do it from Ourense, but you can also do it from Allariz, which is on the Verín alternative of the Sanabrés.

In Allariz, three young historians/archaeologists have formed a little "Cultural Patrimony" company. Their goal is to keep people connected to their Galician cultural, natural, historical, archaeological, etc. heritage. The tourist office put me in touch with this company, Xeitura, http://xeitura.com, so that I could arrange to visit Santa Mariña das Augas Santas. This is a little village with many sites, starting with pre-Roman saunas, with an unfinished romanesque church built over them, some Roman ruins, and a larger pretty stunning Romanesque church towering over this little hamlet of 30 people. All of the sites are tied up with the story of Santa Mariña, the local saint/martyr. I had a three hour visit, and it was really a highlight. So, if you are going to be in the vicinity, I most highly recommend Xeitura. They have some established itineraries, but will also make a trip to correspond to your interests. It is an amazing part of Spain and I hope these guys have a lot of success with their venture.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[VNwalking]

Like like like, Laurie.
But I'm geographically challenged. How could someone walking the Invierno hop down from where the Invierno meets the Sanabres (Laxe, right?)?
[Edit...Ok, so now I see where it is on the map. Way out of the way. Never mind, it was an idea.]

 

[peregrina2000]

Like like like, Laurie.
But I'm geographically challenged. How could someone walking the Invierno hop down from where the Invierno meets the Sanabres (Laxe, right?)?
[Edit...Ok, so now I see where it is on the map. Way out of the way. Never mind, it was an idea.]

Yes, Viranani, you would love it. Easiest thing to do is jut put the Sanabrés on your list, walk from wherever you can (if not Sevilla, how about Mérida, Cáceres, Salamanca or even Zamora for a shorter walk), take the Allariz detour at A Gudiña, and spend a couple of days in the vicinity. I will try to figure out how to post a few pictures when I get home, but now that I have abandoned my camera and use my phone, I have no idea how to do that anymore. So I am both geographically AND technologically challenged.

 

[Charrito]

Thanks for posting this, Laurie. I'll be driving up from Salamanca to Allariz tomorrow afternoon, and plan to do three or four stages of the Sanabrés before coming back home. I might contact the company you mention to see whether there is any chance of visiting Santa Mariña das Augas Santas

Tuesday I'll be walking from Allariz to Ourense, if anyone is around.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Laurie,
A bit of an aside, but I read in yesterday's paper that Merida's Visigoth Museum's opening has been delayed to 2020.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for posting this, Laurie. I'll be driving up from Salamanca to Allariz tomorrow afternoon, and plan to do three or four stages of the Sanabrés before coming back home. I might contact the company you mention to see whether there is any chance of visiting Santa Mariña das Augas Santas

Tuesday I'll be walking from Allariz to Ourense, if anyone is around.

Hi, charrito, I think you would really enjoy spending a few hours with Manuel, he is incredibly informed and a very engaging speaker. I also know, though, that the big romanesque church in the hamlet itself is open on Sundays around mass time (11 am?), so you could go yourself. And the lower half-built church with the underground sauna/oven in which Santa Mariña was martyred is always open. Bring a light, though, it's dark down there. And if you do go by yourself, keep an eye out for a little posted map that will show you a very pleasant 3 km circle that includes the hill fort and the Roman ruins.

Did you already know Allariz? I was surprised to see that it seems to be holding its own, population and economy-wise. Very nice people, too!

 

[Charrito]

I know Allariz very well, Lauria, having stopped there many times (when travelling up to Galicia by car). I saw it in the marvellous film 'La Lengua de las Mariposas' and felt I needed to discover it. Since then I must have stopped there a dozen times or more.

If you haven't seen the film, by the way, I would recommend it.

I love the place: the old town and its narrow cobbled streets, the castle, the river (with a couple of fantastic restaurants), and a great deal more. Tomorrow will be the first occasion I have used Allariz as a starting-point for a Camino, though. I'll be there around 6 this evening.

This time I won't have too much time, but if all goes well I'll be back doing the Sanabrés some time this summer (after I've been on my annual Camino de Invierno at the start of June, of course).