Virtual/planning thread: Caminos Girona, Catalán, and Aragonés - Part 2: Montserrat - Santa Cilia

[Kanga]

My problem too @peregirina2000 - I can't even remember my own posts. With long threads it gets embarrassing when I find I've put two replies in a thread, sometimes contradictory!

Keep walking.

 

[VNwalking]

Keep walking

Sorry to keep you all waiting.
I've been birdwatching.

This is an interesting place, where ecosystem restoration is yielding results:

The Ivars and Vila-sana lake was born with the construction of the Urgell canal , which took place in the mid-19th century. The objective was to bring water to the lands of the Urgell plain to turn it into an irrigated area. The function of the pond was based on reserving the water in case a case of drought arose.

Thus, a small shallow lake became the most important lake in inland Catalonia and also a meeting place for leisure activities. Popular festivals were often held on its banks. Fishing and duck hunting also attracted people from other municipalities.

In 1951 the lake was drained to become a field for cultivation, against the will of the majority of the inhabitants of the surrounding towns. In the early 1990s, when the lake was still very much alive in the memory of the people of the area, the Ivars City Council took the initiative to recover it and commissioned a feasibility study to regenerate it.

After a few years of efforts and projects, in 2002 the Ivars and Vila-sana Pond Consortium was formed and the farms began to be acquired. Later, the refurbishment works to re-flood the basin of the pond began, which culminated in 2005. In 2009 its filling was completed and it acquired its current appearance.

Lots of birds! ~

Birding hotspots: Ca l'Aragonès | RareBirds.Cat

The ca l'Aragonès wood (Vila-sana, Pla d'Urgell) By Sergi Sales Within the Ivars-Vila-Sana lagoon area, one of the most interesting places for birdwatching is the small wood of ca l'Ara

www.rarebirds.cat

But Linyola doesn't sound so memorable.
Vamanos!

 

[VNwalking]

Day 5. Linyola - Algerri (29.9 km)
[Alternatives for those wanting a shorter stage: Balaguer (13.4 km), Castelló de Farfanya (21.2 km)]

Today's another agricultural day:

We walked through a lot of fields with a lot of irrigation channels (this would be the theme for several of our days before Huesca).

But it's one of those areas thst when you scratch the surface there's plenty of interest. Not so much now, but 1000 years ago this area was a happening place.

Balaguer is a case in point. If staying the night before in Valverd (as opposed to Linyola), this would be about 18km along.

Things picked up when we got to Balaguer, a city that had been, we were told, some sort of dividing line between Fascists (north) and Republicans (south) in the Spanish Civil War. It is pretty, interesting little old core, has a big church up on the hill with castle walls, and a riverwalk.

I stayed at the Hotel Balaguer, on the quayside of the Rio Segre, where the staff were friendly and helpful. I had a celebratory dinner (of high quality....and price, but still likely under half the cost of its equivalent in Montréal) at the Tastet del Reng

The museum of the Noguera had a fascinating exhibition of photography of the area during the civil war (Balaguer was the entry point into Catalonia of Nationalist troops and the careful observer can see a few bullet pockmarks on older buildings)

Church of the Miracle on Carrer del Miracle, as it is a converted synagogue from the time when Balaguer once had a sizeable Jewish community.

A cloister in Balaguer. Attached to what looks like an early gothic church.:

A view of part of Balaguer from a bridge near the church:

Also Balaguer; there was a weekend market occupying the plaza in front of the town hall:

No-one seems to mention Castelló de Farfanya much but it looks pretty interesting, too.

In Castello de Farfanya:

The castle of Castelló de Farfanya , in the region of La Noguera (Lleida) , was part of the Saracen defensive line that protected them from the military companies of the counts. The square was conquered between the years 1116 and 1130. 900 years later a municipal initiative, with the mayor Cristina Lafay at the head of it, led by the local tourism consulting company Tu i Lleida proposes guided tours in Arabicby the population. An activity, which is a real novelty in Catalonia, aimed at showing the large Arab population of the region the rich heritage that it has at its fingertips. Guided tours (5 euros, per person) can also be done in Catalan, Spanish, French or English. During the tour that begins at the Romanesque bridge , we visit the House of the Inquisition , the medieval market , the Romanesque church , the house of the Dukes of Alba , the Baroque fountainand the jail and its graffiti. The activity ends with a visit to the Alsina Oil Mill , where an oil tasting is carried out.

To reserve: 640246024 / omar.guia.castellof@gmail.com

Balaguer or Castello de Farfanya sound like much more atmospheric places to stay than Algerri:

I would describe Algerri as a dusty town on the side of the highway, sort of like Torremegía on the Vdlp. The albergue is quite nice, it is an apartment in a municipally-owned building. The bottom floor is the "hogar de los jubilados" (gathering place for retirees), and the albergue is on the top floor. They asked for 5 €. 10 beds in bunks. Clean bathroom, full kitchen, clothes can hang to dry out on a patio.

There is not much going on in Algerri. Its church is surprisingly huge and ornate for such a small place. We walked the streets but saw few people.

Lodging:
Balaguer
Hotel Balaguer

Castelló de Farfanya
Loft Castello, Casa, Carrer Sant Antoni, 7, 25136 Castelló de Farfanya, Lleida

In Algerri:

Algerri- I stayed at the Hostal Terraferma (+34 973 426 004)

I had an excellent meal in the Cal Sigle (+34 672 36 90 07)

So if anyone can find more information, please feel free to post it; I don't have what it takes to follow leads and check out lodging details - as you noticed, @peregrina2000 .
And we have to eat! Experiences, stories, recommendations?

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Day 5. Linyola - Algerri (29.9 km)
[Alternatives for those wanting a shorter stage: Balaguer (13.4 km), Castelló de Farfanya (21.2 km)]

Today's another agricultural day:

But it's one of those areas thst when you scratch the surface there's plenty of interest. Not so much now, but 1000 years ago this area was a happening place.

Along the way and a much shorter day, there is a possibility of staying in Hostal Urgell, E36 per night. Address: Carrer d'Urgell, 25, 25600 Balaguer. Phone: +34973445348; Email: administracion@hostalurgell.com Single room with shared bathroom or double room. Caters to Pilgrims, recommended. Clean.

Hostal Urgell

El Hostal Urgell es un establecimiento de gestión familiar en Balaguer, Lleida.

hostalurgell.com

On the other hand the general consensus on G Maps is to avoid at all costs Hostal Sant Miquel

Balaguer is a case in point. If staying the night before in Valverd (as opposed to Linyola), this would be about 18km along.






No-one seems to mention Castelló de Farfanya much but it looks pretty interesting, too.


View attachment 107898

Balaguer or Castello de Farfanya sound like much more atmospheric places to stay than Algerri:


Lodging:
Balaguer
Hotel Balaguer

Castelló de Farfanya
Loft Castello, Casa, Carrer Sant Antoni, 7, 25136 Castelló de Farfanya, Lleida

In Algerri:

According to one G Maps review there is a rooster reasonably close to
Hostal Terraferma Ph: +34973426004
As already mentioned.
Mixed reviews but seems reasonable for a relatively inexpensive hostal. There is a bar and restaurant at the hostal. The restaurant is called Parador Alggeri, Camí de Sant Blai, 12, 25130 Algerri. It is all part of a service station (gas/petrol station).

Not far down the road is Piscines Municipals d'Algerri, a bar/restaurant that gets very good reviews. It is at Cami Rubinals, 11, 25130 Algerri.

There is also Cal Sigle, another reasonable review, at Carrer Carretera de Balaguer, 19, 25130 Algerri.

So if anyone can find more information, please feel free to post it; I don't have what it takes to follow leads and check out lodging details - as you noticed, @peregrina2000 .
And we have to eat! Experiences, stories, recommendations?

Santa Maria d'Algerri
The church of Algerri, despite its Romanesque origins , is a Gothic building modified and enlarged in the eighteenth century . As a result of this important reform, we are faced with a set that must be considered baroque in general. In the church was found a Roman necropolis, destroyed, which must have corresponded to the Roman villas located north and south of the town. The date of construction of the church is from the 18th century

Santa Maria d'Algerri - Viquipèdia, l'enciclopèdia lliure

ca.wikipedia.org

Forn de pa Pau Borras Aige - Bakery with good reviews and cheap prices.

 

[VNwalking]

According to one G Maps review there is a rooster reasonably close to Hostal Terraferma

At least with the rooster we don't have to worry about an alarm clock. Unless you're accustomed to them in which case you wouldn't notice.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

At least with the rooster we don't have to worry about an alarm clock. Unless you're accustomed to them in which case you wouldn't notice.

See edit.

 

[peregrina2000]

I know I’ve already said this, but it was “out of order” when I suggested it. I think Balaguer would be a very nice stop. It’s there in the middle of two pretty uninspiring places, Linyola and Algerri. big church on top of town, nice riverside walk, arcaded paths through town. Plus its historical importance in the Civil War. I remember that it was very hot the day we walked from Linyola to Algerri, so we didn’t dilly dally in Balaguer.



I looked online to see what the church was that we had not climbed up to,and saw that there are ruins from the Moorish occupation up there! And the tourism site lists a bunch of lodging options, none of which have musty beds and dirty sinks (but none of which are offered for free to pilgrims, either!)

Balaguer Turismo

 

[VNwalking]

I think Balaguer would be a very nice stop. It’s there in the middle of two pretty uninspiring places, Linyola and Algerri. big church on top of town, nice riverside walk, arcaded paths through town. Plus its historical importance in the Civil War.

Yes, it looks pretty interesting.
Short of possibly staying in Valverd the night before, so adding about 5k, if we decide to stay here, I csn't figure out how to avoid a very short day. Or a much longer one from Tarrega.
There aren't many options between Tarrega and Linyola to balance a short day today.

 

[peregrina2000]

There aren't many options between Tarrega and Linyola to balance a short day today.

Well, I think almost everyone (I might exclude @LT from this generalization ) likes a short day now and then, and if you do, I would stop in Balaguer, because I think there are plenty of interesting things to see and do.

Otherwise, you will just have to make your peace with walking through vast expanses of fields, sometimes along a canal, very flat, from one dusty town to another. All part of what makes a camino a camino, IMO.

I had a hard time realizing that a lot of this stage is in Catalunya — Linyola just doesn’t fit that mold. Balaguer is, I think, the last town before that sign in the picture below.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Day 5. Linyola - Algerri (29.9 km)
[Alternatives for those wanting a shorter stage: Balaguer (13.4 km), Castelló de Farfanya (21.2 km)]

Today's another agricultural day:

But it's one of those areas thst when you scratch the surface there's plenty of interest. Not so much now, but 1000 years ago this area was a happening place.

Balaguer is a case in point. If staying the night before in Valverd (as opposed to Linyola), this would be about 18km along.






No-one seems to mention Castelló de Farfanya much but it looks pretty interesting, too.


View attachment 107898

Balaguer or Castello de Farfanya sound like much more atmospheric places to stay than Algerri:


Lodging:
Balaguer
Hotel Balaguer

Castelló de Farfanya
Loft Castello, Casa, Carrer Sant Antoni, 7, 25136 Castelló de Farfanya, Lleida

In Algerri:



So if anyone can find more information, please feel free to post it; I don't have what it takes to follow leads and check out lodging details - as you noticed, @peregrina2000 .
And we have to eat! Experiences, stories, recommendations?

This is more and more sounding like bypassing the *interesting* albergue in Linyola and perhaps even the bird(!!) sanctuary and making my stop in balaguer so I can take the next day to sightsee. May have to catch up with you all again…

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Well, I think almost everyone (I might exclude @LT from this generalization ) likes a short day now and then, and if you do, I would stop in Balaguer, because I think there are plenty of interesting things to see and do.

Well a compromise is long-walkers walk to balaguer rather than Linyola, short walkers walk to balaguer from the bird sanctuary or Linyola. Then we all meet up and find someplace good to eat because *that* isn’t my strength and I’m counting on the rest of you!

 

[peregrina2000]

Then we all meet up and find someplace good to eat because *that* isn’t my strength and I’m counting on the rest of you!

I like good food as much as the next person, but I am not one of those people who hunts out the best restaurants when I’m walking the camino or typically remembers the good ones I’ve stumbled into. I happily take recommendations, though, and have had a few absolutely great ones from @alansykes (in Tarazona on the Ebro and Soria on the Castellano-Aragonés) and @SabineP (in Cáceres and Córdoba, on Vdlp and Mozárabe). So, all you foodies out there, give us some guidance here!

 

[VNwalking]

So, all you foodies out there, give us some guidance here!

Yes, please. Though we may have to wait til we get to Huesca for something other than 'just food.,'

 

[AJGuillaume]

Well, I think almost everyone (I might exclude @LT from this generalization ) likes a short day now and then, and if you do, I would stop in Balaguer, because I think there are plenty of interesting things to see and do.

The slow walkers we are enjoy a short day any day and we'll definitely stop in Balaguer.
Is it worth having a rest day here?

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Yes, please. Though we may have to wait til we get to Huesca for something other than 'just food.,'

I had to suppress doing a victory dance each time I got “just food”…if a film crew had followed me it would have mostly footage of my face pressed up against closed restaurants and taverns while looking at my watch, interspersed with me unable to get through a crowded bar to order. Totally ok with “just food”

 

[peregrina2000]

The slow walkers we are enjoy a short day any day and we'll definitely stop in Balaguer.
Is it worth having a rest day here?

Hmmm, I don’t think so, but if you take a look at the turisme website, it has a page that lists all the attractions. This link should take you to it: http://www.balaguer.cat/turisme/es_index.html

I am sure you would have plenty to do, but only you and your beloved know if those things are things that appeal to you. The centro historico, and ruins of the mosque and some castle and wall ruins all look interesting to me. The churches, not so much, but maybe there are little remnants in them that would be interesting.

 

[peregrina2000]

I have to say that maybe the biggest draw would be a room in a hotel along the river with nice views. Some of those 2** hotels look very comfortable, especially if you have had a night in the less posh quarters of Linyola and haven‘t washed your clothes.

 

[VNwalking]

It does sound interesting:

Balaguer has an interesting local museum, with relics of its old Juderia (although I had to tell them that they had placed their Hebrew Old Testament upside down!)-- the church of Nuestra Senora del Meracle is a former synagogue, although you'll see no sign of its initial function. I had a dinner in the Placa Mercanal one evening and was puzzled by a brass band setting up in the middle of nowhere, but it was to play music for the Catalan popular dance -- the Sardana-- Youtube provides lots of examples.

I stayed at the Hotel Balaguer on the riverbank, just five minutes from the Placa. It is a plain country town hotel and in 2007 and 2009, I think I paid about 25-30. The menu de dia was acceptable, but the restaurants on the Placa were better and more agreeable

One thing about staying here is that it makes for 3 'shorter' days in a row. Not a bad thing, necessarily. Linyola-Balaguer, Balaguer-Algerri (or Alfarras? No albergue, but all services), Algerri-Tamarite.

Sometimes the Forum opens the door into something rich and previously unknown:

Sardana - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Thanks, @oursonpolaire and @peregrina2000 !

 

[AJGuillaume]

One thing about staying here is that it makes for 3 'shorter' days in a row. Not a bad thing, necessarily. Linyola-Balaguer, Balaguer-Algerri (or Alfarras?), Algerri-Tamarite

Actually, a good thing

 

[VNwalking]

And look what I just found a little past Balguer, South of the camino near the river opposite to Falfona de Balaguer!:
Santa Maria de Les Franqueses (Monestir Cistercenc), Poligono II, Parcela 391, 25600 Balaguer, Lleida

Santa Maria de les Franqueses - Viquipèdia, l'enciclopèdia lliure

ca.m.wikipedia.org

http://invarquit.cultura.gencat.cat/Cerca/Fitxa?index=0&consulta=&codi=16

It dates from 1186 but has been a bit beaten up, thanks to falling into disuse and sale by 1700.

the site and the church were used as housing and agricultural storage, helps us understand the current state of conservation in which it is located. [8] As for housing and the agricultural warehouse, it is thought that they were built during the 18th century and were maintained until 2004, when the first protection interventions were carried out on this heritage

Some of those walls look bullet-pocked, and though the wikipedia article does not mention it, I am guessing the Civil War must have inflicted some damage.

 

[VNwalking]

And Northwest of Balaguer, there's a series of restored trenches from the offensive that raged here during the CW.

From a blog I found:

We left Balaguer, [...] passing through the viewpoint of les Fues and down to Gerb. From here we head along a well-indicated track towards the Trincheras de la Pedrera where, after admiring the landscape and the trenches themselves, we will return to Gerb, first passing through the ruins of the Vella de Gerb Church and the viewpoint of the Punta del Espigol.
There is a previous entry where I explain a little the History of the Trenches that belong to the so-called P line of Spanish National defense after the Spanish Civil War.

Balaguer-Gerb-Trincheras de la Pedrera-Balaguer (lleida)

bardos1959.blogspot.com

Balaguer - Gerb- Trincheras de la Pedrera- Balaguer.

Balaguer - Gerb- Trincheras de la Pedrera- Balaguer. Hiking trail in Balaguer, Catalunya (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Ruta matinal para estirar. Las piernas con visita a las Trincheras de la Línea P. Sin prisas.

www.wikiloc.com

What happened here was brutal.

 

[VNwalking]

Day 6. Algerri - Tamarite (21 km)

Mostly a flat easy walking day. The underground irrigation systems along the way make gurgling, rushing, noises. Just after Alfarrás one passes under an old aqueduct and enters Aragón.

Laurie posted a photo of the aqueduct above, in post #109.

Unlike the dizzying number of possible routes on the Sant Jaume, this part of the Catalan sounds very straightforward and positively meseta-like. Quite the contrast to what went before.

Going under that aqueduct, we leave Catalunya and enter Aragon. (I wonder about the liminal space under there. Is there a magical door to someplace altogether different?
)

And in spite of all the rushing water today, it pays to make sure you have enough:

Water has to be carefully managed as there are few fuentes on this stretch

Then Tamarite:

Tamarite was a pleasant surprise, a much bigger place than Algerri. It has an old core that isn't terribly well preserved, but it is clearly a commercial center of sorts for the surrounding area. Not a big city, but all the commerce the average pilgrim would want.

Including what sounds like a really nice albergue:

Sign-in for the albergue is at the Policía Local, and though the townspeople were almost uniformly kind and chatty, this guy was taciturn and grumpy.

The donativo albergue of Tamarite de Litera is located in a municipal building formerly used as a residence for students. There is an area upstairs used as a mosque now. The first floor albergue has 3 rooms with bunks, each with a heater. The showers were fabulous. There is no kitchen or central area, but it was fine. There were 3 of us, and we each had a room.

The albergue is in an old Escuela Taller. There are three bedrooms, each one, I think, with 4 bunks (though we didn't see the other rooms). Separate male and female bathrooms, whose cleanliness was appreciated. Though we were the only pilgrims, the other two rooms were occupied by a bunch of college students majoring in Archaeology on their first "dig." They were working up in the hills looking for pre-Roman settlements

The albergue may not be the only game in town in a pinch, but it helps to have Guarda angels:

However, one of the Guards found me a staff room at a finca /casa rural nearby where they were holding a wedding (it was suggested to me that people are generally happy to take the occasion of being helpful to the Guardia Civil)-- the celebrations did not keep me awake, but that might have been the cava which was sent over to my little terrace by the wedding party (while there was no room for me in the restaurant, my serving of the 6 courses of the menu de boda was courtesy of the bridal couple). They were still celebrating when I left at 7 am, but the staff gave me breakfast at 6.00 and made a little packed lunch for me. I have long thought that this set a standard for hospitality for pilgrims

 

[Anniesantiago]

I had to come to Portland to have my car worked on this morning, so I spent the night at Joe's last night. We spent a couple of hours watching this fellow's videos on the Camino from Montserrat. I have to say after watching, I'm not so excited about the scenery in the sections from Montserrat to Huesca. There seemed to be a LOT of asphalt walking.

FROM Huesca looks nice though. In addition, he seemed to really have difficulties finding bars or even markets, and I'm wondering how much food one must carry?

All in all, I think we decided IF we do the Camino Catalan this year, we will begin in Huesca , walk to the Monastery, then join the Aragones and walk to Pamplona, where we have to pick up our groups. It would be a nice training walk, and I'd love to do the Aragones again anyway.

Any advice on how much food to carry from those who have walked this?

(oops! I forgot to post the link to the video)
Camino Catalan Video

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Any advice on how much food to carry from those who have walked this?

I think that starting in Huesca is a good idea. The next Gronze stage is Bolea. It has at least one cafe, Casa Rufino (I had dinner there in 2019), and Google Maps shows another, Bar Muralla. I'm not sure of grocery availability. You will need to carry one to four days food beyond Bolea and you probably have to get it in Huesca. I usually carried two days of food with me all along the Catalan anyway.

To understand about the range of one to four days food beyond Bolea see this post of mine about Catalan stages that I posted early to what got turned into part one of the planning thread, Llanca to Monserrat.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/70634/page-4#post-949374

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

You will need to carry one to four days food beyond Bolea and you probably have to get it in Huesca. I usually carried two days of food with me all along the Catalan anyway.

Sparrow sadly googles “ways to make peanut butter more exciting” …I’m used to packing fruit and some Magdelanas, and for days like the hospitales maybe some bread, nuts, and chocolate, so please define 2-4 days worth of food—are there no bars? Or are you just an Eagle Scout? (Please let that be the answer). The littoral variant of the Portugues is looking better and better.

 

[VNwalking]

Sparrow sadly googles “ways to make peanut butter more exciting”

You can't. Carry almond butter instead.

I have to admit that this stretch of the Cami Catalan sounds less than stellar. One good thing about a virtual camino is that it sifts and resifts the go-to list of prospective caminos. This one is sounding to me more and more like the Levante before Toledo and Lana before Cuenca. Which moves it down a few notches, I have to say. The Sant Jaume is the saving grace, because it looks amazing. Anyone who's had shoes on the ground on some of these ways (@LTfit, @peregrina2000, @alansykes) please feel free to shoot me down.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

You can't. Carry almond butter instead.

That actually was the first of 15 suggestions, many of which I reject outright (mashed banana) or required refrigeration. Some I might try: added spices (I could see crushed Aleppo chili, or ground cardamom), fresh fruit, honey, cucumber/onions/sriracha. It’s the doing without coffee I find alarming (as should anyone thinking of walking with me).

my only walking on this was Terrassa to the monastery, and even then I stopped at monstriol to get train back to hotel (with view of Sagrada Familia from my bed and amazing frozen yogurt—the end of my very Gaudi Camino), then train back again to monstriol to climb when it was cooler. Never was I in doubt of finding coffee . I can dress up peanut butter but I need coffee.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I had to come to Portland to have my car worked on this morning, so I spent the night at Joe's last night. We spent a couple of hours watching this fellow's videos on the Camino from Montserrat. I have to say after watching, I'm not so excited about the scenery in the sections from Montserrat to Huesca. There seemed to be a LOT of asphalt walking.

FROM Huesca looks nice though. In addition, he seemed to really have difficulties finding bars or even markets, and I'm wondering how much food one must carry?

All in all, I think we decided IF we do the Camino Catalan this year, we will begin in Huesca , walk to the Monastery, then join the Aragones and walk to Pamplona, where we have to pick up our groups. It would be a nice training walk, and I'd love to do the Aragones again anyway.

Any advice on how much food to carry from those who have walked this?

(oops! I forgot to post the link to the video)
Camino Catalan Video

I haven’t watched all of his videos (thanks for the link) but I wonder if his trouble eating is similar to reasons I had trouble eating (although it would be weird for him)—the streets and towns look pretty empty (as did all of mine), could he be walking too early for food to open, then hitting towns when things are closed in the afternoon? Could that first day have been a Sunday and that’s why all the restaurants locked up? I know it’s a stretch to think he wouldn’t know about small town dining in Spain but so far I haven’t seen anyone but him on the streets (not meaning pilgrims but anyone), I noticed small towns esp more rural Norte and Primitivo if you came through at the wrong time in the afternoon you’d think we’d had the Rapture

I hope he has a chance with Anna

 

[VNwalking]

I noticed small towns esp more rural Norte and Primitivo if you came through at the wrong time in the afternoon you’d think we’d had the Rapture

And leaving you behind, SS?! Not a chance.

But seriously...some days of the week as well.
And it sounds like small towns here can have a similar empty vibe:

We walked the streets but saw few people.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Sparrow sadly googles “ways to make peanut butter more exciting”

You could mix in some cacahuetes. They won't change the flavor much but they will make the peanut butter crunchy.

As for food and drink from Sarsamarcuello to Santa Cilia, there is a village social club in Sarsamarcuello but you have to rely on the good-heartedness of the residents. La Peña Estación has a bakery but I didn't see it. I just looked at its pictures in Google Maps and it looks like it is mainly a wholesaler. Supposedly there is a bar there too. I don't know how I missed it. In Botaya I picked up some fallen apples from the road into town. At the new San Juan monastery you should be able to get a meal at the hotel. I didn't have the time to even look for it; I needed the time to visit the old monastery. I did pick up some sausage at the gift shop though. Santa Cruz should be a good spot to get something.

 

[peregrina2000]

So I see there is a growing consensus that this camino would be better to start in Huesca than Montserrat. It’s pretty clear, I think, that the natural backdrop for some of these stages would not meet most definitions of “beautiful,” certainly not “spectacular.” But I would also say that I imagine it’s no different than any other camino that goes through agricultural expanses if you walk outside of springtime. But would I walk this camino again? Yes, absolutely, no questions asked. But I would make sure to do it in springtime. When VN compared this pre-Huesca part to the Levante before Toledo, I was going to strenuously disagree because I absolutely loved loved loved the Levante before Toledo. But that is probably because I walked it in springtime with the glorious shocking green fields. I admit the natural backdrop is a huge part of my camino and brown fields take their toll. But this route in springtime would be perfecto!

In addition, he seemed to really have difficulties finding bars or even markets, and I'm wondering how much food one must carry?

I do not remember taking any additional steps about carrying food. I always carry some yoghurt, fruit and nuts but that’s it. The only time I had an issue was in a town after Huesca whose name I will remember when we get there. That was a stop where we hadn’t thought to bring extra food and wound up getting a big fat expensive calorie laden ice cream concotion for our dinner and quite easily made it to the next day. So I really don’t think food is a big issue on this camino, but others may have had a different experience.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I hope he has a chance with Anna

I think he may have scared her off! lol!

 

[Anniesantiago]

So I see there is a growing consensus that this camino would be better to start in Huesca than Montserrat. It’s pretty clear, I think, that the natural backdrop for some of these stages would not meet most definitions of “beautiful,” certainly not “spectacular.” But I would also say that I imagine it’s no different than any other camino that goes through agricultural expanses if you walk outside of springtime. But would I walk this camino again? Yes, absolutely, no questions asked. But I would make sure to do it in springtime.

Well, one reason for the choice, I must admit, is the time constraint.
I can't take off more than 6 weeks and leave my elderly mother here so that gives Joe and I just around 2.5-3 weeks to get to Pamplona to pick up our groups. This is another one of those routes we will walk a portion of, then go back later to pick up what we missed (we do this often, it seems). I've been to Montserrat and walked to the summit there so I think what I'll miss most about it is sleeping in the monastery. I've also seen both old and new Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña - I plan on taking all of these routes slower and steadier once my life is freed up here at home.

 

[VNwalking]

But this route in springtime would be perfecto!

Good to know. I never grizzle about the Meseta on the Frances, in fact I like it. This sounds pretty similar without being on an ant trail.

wound up getting a big fat expensive calorie laden ice cream concotion for our dinner and quite easily made it to the next day.

That sounds like a fine evening meal. Enough serotonin precursors in there to give a good night's sleep...

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I think he may have scared her off! lol!

I learned the code words quickly on the Norte: "i'm on a spiritual journey" meant he's read some dumb German book that says women walk the camino to hook up

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

You could mix in some cacahuetes. They won't change the flavor much but they will make the peanut butter crunchy.

for crunchy I'd be more inclined to mix in toasted Hormigas Culonas, which tasted like lemony peanuts cooked with bacon.

 

[VNwalking]

Day 7. Tamarite - Berbegal (40.4 km)
[Or two separate days, Tamarite - Monzon (21.2km); Monzon - Berbegal (19.2 km)]
Again, I'm being lazy by just harvesting comments from the threads on the Forum. I do not know how up-to-date it is! So additions, deletions, or correction from those in the know would be great.

I was a little taken aback by the length of this stage, but it sounds quite doable:

Long day, but nothing too strenuous, just that frustrating sharp little ascent at the very end to get up to Berbegal, a town on a hill.

The first 20 km were all off-road, lots of the kms went by a canal. This was one major canal, and its waters cooled the already cool morning air, so it was a very pleasant if not terribly interesting part of the day.

Off-road trail, good café along the way for a break, albergue with washing machine and good beds, town with decent restaurant and café, all adds up to another very good day on the Camino.

The first potential alternative stop is Monzon:

Monzón is a nice little town, has a castle on the hill, but we didn't stop to visit it. We got a sello in the Ayuntamiento, had a drink and nice rest in a lively little café in the Plaza Mayor

Another 6.5 kms will bring you to to Selgua, also a possible place to stay:

Todos los servicios. Albergue en la Residencia Municipal de Deportistas C/ Rio Flumen 36. Reserva previa en deportes@monzon.es o tel. 974-404-894. Mon. to Fri. 8h to 21:30h, Sat. 9h to 14h and 16h to 20h and Sun. 9h to 13h. Precio 10 €. We were given the story (on the phone) that the albergue was full and that there was no space for us. Not likely given that the place was locked up with all lights off and the fact that we had, so far, never shared a municipal albergue with any other pilgrims since Ullastrell. This forced us to the Hostal Venecia C. Cervantes, 3. 40€ double. 974 403 699. Not a welcoming place, especially disappointing at 40€.

Selgua has a bar/restaurante and ahostal. We had planned to stay here, but had the choice made for us when the owner of the Hostal called to say that the room that we had reserved the day before was still occupied by the previous night's occupant, who had decided not to leave. Well, that's one way of dealing with reservations. I did get the sense on the phone that if we had pushed, she would have found somewhere to put us up, but since we were feeling ok and knew that Berbegal was not that much further, I just said ok and goodbye.

Place to stay in Selgua if you don't want to go all the way to Berbegal: HOSTAL CASA FORNIES: Calle Romero,2. Tel.

974-417-169

And then finally Berbegal, annoyingly atop a hill at the end of the day.

As you climb up the hill to enter Berbegal, you will come to the municipal swimming pool, which has a public bar. The woman at the pool called her brother Manu, the hospitalero and he came to take us to the albergue and give us the keys. The albergue is very nice, in an apartment with all facilities, fully equipped kitchen and washing machine. Manu also will give you laundry detergent to wash your clothes. The town wants no money from pilgrims.

But it sounds like a welcoming place:

a very nice promenade around what used to be the castle walls with views out over the plains below. There is a very pretty Romanesque Colegiata, Santa María la Blanca, but it was closed whenever we went by.

There must be castles and the odd church along the way, this being where it is...anyone know?

 

[peregrina2000]

There must be castles and the odd church along the way, this being where it is...anyone know?

Yes I definitely remember that LT and I had split up and either we reunited at the outside of a romanesque church (closed) along the way or I realized I was lost at that church and had to find my way without her. But the memory is hazy. But I definitely remember the church, not in a town, just out on the camino (with an interpretative plaque, I think). I have seen mention of the Ermita Santa Águeda on someone’s wikiloc tracks, and that might be it.

Camino Catalán por San Juan de la Peña: 01 Monzón-Pertusa

Camino Catalán por San Juan de la Peña: 01 Monzón-Pertusa Hiking trail in Monzón, Aragón (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. El camino Catalán a Santiago por San Juan de la Peña, también llamado de San Jaime o del Mediterráneo u Oriental, parte de la basílica de...

www.wikiloc.com

This website has a lot of good information on Romanesque in Aragón, but I’m having trouble opening it this morning.

www.romanicoaragones.com

The first potential alternative stop is Monzon:

BTW, Monzón is definitely a good alternative. I was walking with someone who has a very strong preference for albergues, and so we did long days when necessary if there was an albergue option. But on my own, I confess, I may have been inclined to stop at Monzón. It’s hard for me to resist the temptation to explore a castle.

 

[VNwalking]

This website has a lot of good information on Romanesque in Aragón, but I’m having trouble opening it this morning.

www.romanicoaragones.com

OH!! Muchas gracias!!!

Edit~the interactive map on that site is fantastic. It led me here, for example:

Berbegal-Rutas romanicas por el altoaragon-A.Garcia Omedes

Look! There are mountains over yonder!

And check out the Concatedral in Monzon:

Monzón-Rutas romanicas por el altoaragon-A.Garcia Omedes

 

[lindam]

On my second time walking this route, I was able to make a reservation for my husband and I to stay at the albergue in Monzón. It is part of a large sporting complex and offers very comfortable accommodations for pilgrims (private double bedroom with own shower, shared well equipped kitchen and comfortable common areas). It is however mandatory to make an advance reservation where one is required to submit a copy of your identification (e.g., passport or residency card). Reservations can be made using the following email address: deportes@monzon.es.

 

[lindam]

La Peña Estación has a bakery but I didn't see it. I just looked at its pictures in Google Maps and it looks like it is mainly a wholesaler. Supposedly there is a bar there too. I don't know how I missed it.

Yes, there is a bakery there, on the main road but stepped back a bit and with a somewhat hidden entry so it would be understandable that you missed it. Along with a nice selection of bread, they also sell a few basic supplies such as tins of tuna, jars of cooked chickpeas and beans, milk, etc. The bar is just a few steps away. The service there is less than friendly but, if needed, is a place for a drink or light snack (sandwiches, chips, etc.). If one plans to walk from here to Ena, it is essential to have foodstuffs on board as there is nothing else en route and there are no options for food in Ena.

 

[peregrina2000]

On my second time walking this route, I was able to make a reservation for my husband and I to stay at the albergue in Monzón.

WHAT?? So we could have slept in an albergue in Monzón AND explored the castle AND not had a 40 km day?

But just to fill in the lodging picture, Monzón offers everything from a “hip minimalist hotel with a bright restaurant and trendy bar”

to a two star Hostal described as down to earth and modest.

with a few other things in between like an apartment.

And did I mention there’s a castle to climb around?

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

But just to fill in the lodging picture, Monzón offers everything from a “hip minimalist hotel with a bright restaurant and trendy bar”

I believe I got the last room in town there, a suite. I got my money's worth at the breakfast buffet.

 

[peregrina2000]

I believe I got the last room in town there, a suite. I got my money's worth at the breakfast buffet.

View attachment 108167

Thanks, Rick.

Now I know what hip and minimalist means. I would probably use other words, but I am sure it was very comfortable.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Thanks, Rick.

Now I know what hip and minimalist means. I would probably use other words, but I am sure it was very comfortable.

Hey in my book minimalist = less chance of bedbugs
Edit: they have a getaway special: room, spa, and tour of castle. Just saying…
This road trip is looking better and better

 

[oursonpolaire]

Yes, there is a bakery there, on the main road but stepped back a bit and with a somewhat hidden entry so it would be understandable that you missed it. Along with a nice selection of bread, they also sell a few basic supplies such as tins of tuna, jars of cooked chickpeas and beans, milk, etc. The bar is just a few steps away. The service there is less than friendly but, if needed, is a place for a drink or light snack (sandwiches, chips, etc.). If one plans to walk from here to Ena, it is essential to have foodstuffs on board as there is nothing else en route and there are no options for food in Ena.

It was some years ago, but I had the menu at the bar as it had a comedor attached. I do not know if the quality was of the first class, but it was fine enough and I was hungry. I found the senora very talkative, but she seemed combative with some of the clients--- mind you, they might have deserved it.

After Bolea, there is the small pueblo of Loarre, which featured some overpriced casas rurales-- I stayed at one the last time and found it comfortable if a bit dear for me. They made up for it with an exceptional breaktast. There is also a Hosteria de Loarre, which may or may not be open but was an acceptable hotel from the 1960s or 1970s-- I found the restaurant very good although there was at the time another excellent one at the southern entrance (O Caminero which, I have just discovered, is permanently closed). There is also a camping in the hills above Loarre with a restaurant, and IIRC a café at the Castillo.

 

[oursonpolaire]

I believe I got the last room in town there, a suite. I got my money's worth at the breakfast buffet.

View attachment 108167

I stayed there IIRC in 2017 as I felt that a long walk deserved a reward. Luckily I was there just in time to make the Sunday menu de dia. A family at a nearby table thought it was unfortunate that a pilgrim (I had not yet changed from my Tilley shorts and Royal Robbins shirt) was dining on their own and insisted that I join them. So that their teenaged daughter would have a chance to show off her English, they moved her boyfriend to the other side of the table to sit by the grandfather, and if looks could kill, the daggers of his glaze would have well equipped a picador at the bullring.... Her English was not bad at all, and I earned my supper by writing out a reading list for her and a recommendation for useful podcasts, all to the approval of the parents. The accommodation was minimal but I have a positive recollection of the bathtub and the hot water. The buffet at breakfast was remarkable.

The cathedral has a small but charming memorial to two priests martyred in the civil war (Joseph Nadal and José Jordan, f.d. 12 August) outside the building. All around it is the well-marked Juderia, as Monzon was home to about 350 Jews.

 

[VNwalking]

My thoughts echo your post, @Rick of Rick and Peg , about Monzon looking better and better.
Now looking backwards to see what would more efficiently cover ground and allow me to stay here and make up time someplace beforehand...because three 20km days cover the same ground as two 30km ones

The buffet at breakfast was remarkable.

Was it available at a reasonably early hour, or is one consigned to a late departure if one wants to eat well?

 

[oursonpolaire]

My thoughts echo your post, @Rick of Rick and Peg , about Monzon looking better and better.
Now looking backwards to see what would more efficiently cover ground and allow me to stay here and make up time someplace beforehand...because three 20km days cover the same ground as two 30km ones


Was it available at a reasonably early hour, or is one consigned to a late departure if one wants to eat well?

I made no note of the time, but I have a vague recollection of it being 8.00 am. But things change and this was before the Plague, so I make no promises that it might be so now.

 

[VNwalking]

Day 8. Berbegal - Fananas (28 km)
(Shorter stage alternative, Pertusa 12.6km)

First of all, today is a red letter day. Ta-da!!!:

Here, our views of the distant Pyrenees began -- way off in the haze, sometimes clear, sometimes fuzzy, we could see some mountains and some of them still had snow. It was a lovely thing to be able to see mountains out there after so many days of flat.

The Amics page tells us this about where we are and where we're headed:

Avoiding roads and following the remains of ancient Roman roads and vestiges, we will go to Berbegal, already mentioned in Chapter III of Book IV of the Codice Calixtinus as "opidum fortissimum Barbagalli", where we can contemplate its collegiate church. And after the historic Pertusa, we will reach Huesca.

This is another very old road. On thing to bear in mind is that the marked way that @Sitkapilgrim took - and the route on my OSMand map labelled as the Cami Catalan - is not the same as the Dutch track, which bypasses Antillón.

At the outset, even those of us not in the Electric Coil Club stand a fair chance of breakfast:

The bar opened at 7 am so a hot coffee was possible in the morning.

And at least in springtime, it sounds lovely:

The morning was initially beautiful – looking out across the flat plains under a dense and then wispy layer of fog, then following the packed earth path between fields for the first 7km to Pertusa.

As others have pointed out, a spring time walk here is great for wild flowers, and in particular the tiny yellow daffodils. I did lose the trail once [...] but it was probably from lacking faith. There were very few yellow arrows

First stop is Pertusa, and it is historic, as promised.

(From Wikipedia, as is this:

Pertusa was an Ilergetes settlement, known only under the same name, which was given under Roman rule; the Ilergetes were an ancient Iberian (Pre-Roman) people of the Iberian peninsula (the Roman Hispania) who dwelt in the plains area of the rivers Segre and Cinca towards Iberus (Ebro) river, and in and around Ilerda/Iltrida, present-day Lleida/Lérida. They are believed to have spoken the Iberian language.

I found a very detailed article about this village; here's some of it, machine translated and lightly edited:

Pertusa is not yet somontano, but Huesca flatness, on a small peninsula, tucked into the landscape almost an island in the middle of the Alcanadre River.

The name of Pertusa meant “divided stone”; and it would have sense since the Alcanadre river seems to do this same. The name of the village is Roman; it belonged to the mansion of the same name, in the first way of Antonio's itinerary. There are remains of a Roman roadway, in good condition.

Although of Iberian origin, Pertusa - that was also named Partusa and Dertusa- corresponds better with the Roman time, to be in the itinerary of the route coming from Monsoon, that already is mentioned by Antonino.

The parochial of Santa Maria is a pure Romanesque style and it is supposed that includes the whole subsoil of the current church. The arches get lost between walls that were raised later. The whole remaining building corresponds between XVIth and XVIIth centuries, and even it is possible that there are enough work of beginning of the XVIIIth. The cloister, although with repairing and modern plasterings, speaks about collegiate church of yesterday. Near to the church, but without forming set with it, is the tower, with reliefs and friezes of undoubted value. It deserves, together with the crypt, the declaration of national monument.

And NB, for planning purposes if you want to stay here:

Pertusa celebrates its holidays on the 15th and 16th of August, in honor of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Although there are other holidays, for San Blas and Santa Águeda, [villagers] have not lost either the tradition of the bonfires of San Antón. They were lighting in the different streets. Sometimes the fire lasts entire days with its corresponding nights.​

Here is @lindam's information about the albergue and sevices here:​

Bar y tienda comestibles (solo mañanas). Albergue municipal con calefacción, agua caliente, lavadora (stopped working mid-cycle) y cocina (oven and cooktop) and balcony. 5€. Great place but terrible water. Responsable: José Manuel Trallero (Tel. 622-272-501). Plaza del Portal, 5. A ser posible, llamar antes de llegar. Se aconseja comprar en Berbegal. El bar Escuelas vuelve a estar operativo: de martes a viernes por la mañana, fines de semana mañana y tarde y lunes cerrado. Very limited shopping; long wait for it to open after 12h.-ish.

The bars may or may not be open:​

This little town has two bars, one in off the road by the church, and one at the exit of town and one the Camino. The second one was supposed to open at 9 am, but we left around 9:15 without seeing any evidence that it would in fact be opening.

It should be noted here that you can avoid the pavement all the way to Pueyo de Fañanás by using the Dutch track. But there looks to be no services at all, so make sure you have enough water should you decide to do this. There is a turn-off to the left about 1.75km after leaving Pertusa (where the pin is in the map below; the Dutch track has the purple overlay, the official CC is labelled on the map in blue).

​

Continuing on the official (not Dutch) route along the road, soon we get to Antillón.

The bar in Antillón in the local social was friendly and warm

The social club is likely to be open and ready to sell you a café or other drink.

And the off pavement again:

The last km from Antillón to Pueyo were all through agricultural fields, on nice unpaved roads,

In Pueyo de Fañanás:

Pueyo is not a place where much is going on. Nor is it a very attractive place. But like many of these small dying places, the people are kind and generous.

The municipal albergue in Pueyo de Fañanás is a small apt. above what used to be the social club. The hospitalera told us that the social club, where meals were previously made for pilgrims, had closed a couple of days before our arrival.

Laurie and @LTfit made do with dwindling food supplies, but the kitchen may be open:

Pueyo de Fañanás is a small village with a very nice municipal albergue where the local woman who manages the albergue may cook you dinner if you like. There was a well equipped kitchen in the albergue – just no local tienda to buy supplies. We had a great dinner which included potatoes and garlic from her garden.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

At the outset, even those of us not in the Electric Coil Club stand a fair chance of breakfast:

This is my hopeful peregrina breakfast smile

(actually her name is Heaven and she’s in People’s rescue dog of the year contest…but very much the same face I used in search of breakfast)

 

[VNwalking]

This is my hopeful peregrina breakfast smile

This is definitely worth practicing. But I assume you forgo the canine salivary performance?

 

[peregrina2000]

I do have a happy memory from Pueyo de Fañanás. When we were there, there was a little celebration in the village celebrating the birth of a baby. The small plaza mayor was very lively, and we had a few conversations with the residents who were so happy to welcome the new baby home. As I remember, because the town is so close to Huesca, it is better situated than many of these small pueblos to survive — as a bedroom community. It was clear that the residents went into Huesca for all of the shopping. Its most recent census data shows 118 residents. Googlemaps shows nothing but the church and a fountain.

 

[VNwalking]

Day 9. Pueyo de Fañanás - Huesca (17 km)
Jumping ahead to the big city with no further ado.
This is a short but not necessarily straightforward stage. Make sure you keep going in the right direction.
A km or so past Fañanás (which is the first place you get to after leaving Pueyo de Fañanás), there is a junction; the camino goes straight here (The arrow in the map). It may now be better marked than when @peregrina2000 and @LTfit went through, but word to the wise.

I'm imagining that if you surrender to the allure of having the view of the mountains dead ahead, you are probably going in the wrong direction. Except for one short stretch of due north walking on a paved road right before Ola, the camino runs WNW here, so the mountains should be ahead and to your right. Is this correct, CCvets?

it sounds like a pleasant day's walk:

The camino was virtually all off road and very well marked.

We went by a stone shephard hut and found that during the Spanish Civil War, the Trotskyist group POUM had occupied it and carved its name above the doorway. That past is not that distant

Here is @lindam 's list of services along the way:

267,8 1,6 Fañanás
Bar / local social. Font. Abre por las mañanas 10 a 14 y tardes 18 a 21. Fin de semana y festivos abre más horas. Preguntar al 722-206-981.

272,2 4,4 Ola
Ningún servicio. Fuente.

277,9 5,7 Tierz (actualmente es desvío del camino marcado)
Bar en el polideportivo (en verano cierran al mediodía).

The Dutch route into Huesca is a straight shot from where it crosses the Rio Flumen; Laurie's track dodges South here and takes a longer but probably more pleasant way into town, following the Rio for a while before again turning WNW. Whichever way you go the city is not far away at this point.

When we got closer to Huesca, we found that many local people were out using the trails and it took us through some areas of natural vegetation, along a river at points, and finally to a church designated as an "ermita", but looking too big to meet my mind's definition of ermita.

Huesca is obviously the main event, and a good place for a rest day if you need it.

we found our way to the albergue, purpose-built for pilgrims in 2011. It is located very close to one of the city's municipal pools, which has a café bar open to the public, but the pools themselves are not.

We called the number on the door and had to wait about 45 minutes for the hospitalera. The posted opening time is 1:30 pm, so we weren't complaining. The woman who came to open up was clearly a last minute fill-in for someone else and had trouble navigating the process. But finally we were checked in. The albergue has two bedrooms with about 16 beds, kitchen with washing machine (soap provided in the albergue). 10 € includes use of washing machine. This albergue could use some cleaning,

281,8 3,9 Huesca Day 13
Todos los servicios. Albergue gestionado por la Asociación de Huesca en la calle Valentin Gardeta, 34 (Barrio del Perpetuo Socorro, en la entrada de Huesca por la Ermita de Salas). 10€. Open 13:30h. Full kitchen and laundry included in price. Responsables: Agustín (Tel. 625-017-094), Andrés (Tel. 659-610-623) y Jose (Tel. 629-947-956). Comfortable albergue next to Mercadona supermarket. Hostal Lizana (atención especial a los peregrinos; 32 - 40€. ), plaza Lizana 6 (Tel. 974-220-776). Hostal El Centro, c/ Sanchez Ramírez, 3 (tel. 974-226-823).

Other Huesca infos, gang? Places to see or eat?
The one thing I've found so far is this:

Huesca has an outstanding diocesan museum, where many of the romanesque treasures of the area have been gathered, partly to preserve them, and partly to preserve them from thieves working with art dealers.

 

[peregrina2000]

First of all, this was yet another one of those days where I couldn’t figure out how to use the GPS and we wound up taking a wrong turn and walking extra kms. It was frustrating because what was supposed to be a quick jaunt into Huesca got longer. I also cannot for the life of me remember how it is that I did not rush to the cloister/monastery of San Pedro el Viejo to get in before Sunday closing time. Maybe I was feeling bad about having led LT so far astray, but for whatever reason I never saw the monastery or the museum @oursonpolaire describes. I’ll chalk this whole day up as a colossal FAIL!

Huesca is a very pretty city and we did enjoy our afternoon there, even though everything is always closed on Sunday afternoon. We wound up talking for a long time in a café with a couple of retired Guardia Civil. She had been a member of their biathlon team (I had to look up the name for “shooting a rifle while skiing”) and spent a lot of her time participating in international competitions. She also told some very interesting stories about the way in which the French/Spanish border was secured (or not) during the Franco era. She had been given early retirement because of a biathlon shoulder injury and was heading the next day back to her native Andalucía for the summer. I don’t know if they still do this, but the Guardia Civil used to have a rule that you couldn’t be posted in the region where you came from. It’s easier to smash the heads of protestors you don’t know than those you have known since childhood. Thankfully those days are long gone.

 

[VNwalking]

cloister/monastery of San Pedro el Viejo

Wow. This place looks fantastic.

EL MONASTERIO BENEDICTINO DE SAN PEDRO EL VIEJO EN HUESCA-A.Garcia Omedes

And it's part of an old sequence:

The Romanesque Monastery of San Pedro el Viejo is located in the place occupied by the Mozarabic temple that served as a cult to the Christian community during the long centuries of Muslim occupation. In fact, there is a long sacred construction sequence in this place since a Roman temple has been located on its site, later replaced by a Visigoth church and later by the Mozarabic temple

(From https://m.arteguias.com/monasterio/sanpedroelviejo.htm)

There is also the Rennaissance/Baroque Basilica of San Lorenzo.

The city has food too. After our hardscrabble days, perhaps a Michelin starred restaurant?:

Huesca MICHELIN Restaurants - The MICHELIN Guide Spain

Starred restaurants, Bib Gourmand and all the MICHELIN restaurants in Huesca on the MICHELIN Guide's official website. MICHELIN inspector reviews and insights

guide.michelin.com

She had been a member of their biathlon team

Wait, what? Spain has a biathlon team? With members from Andalucia? That's wonderful and funny at the same time.

It’s easier to smash the heads of protestors you don’t know than those you have known since childhood.

Oy vay. So glad those times are in the rear view mirror.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I'm imagining that if you surrender to the allure of having the view of the mountains dead ahead, you are probably going in the wrong direction.

Get lost a few (hundred) times and you’re marked for life Thanks great job!

ummm, I’ll be at the museum for a bit while someone wiser finds food…and children’s museum…and cloisters

 

[VNwalking]

And to back up a bit. For those who are into things Roman I found this:

LA CIUDAD ROMANA DE LABITOLOSA - VIATOR IMPERI

0 (0) Aragón – Huesca / LABITOLOSA (Tarraconensis) El municipio de La Puebla de Castro está situado...

viatorimperi.es

Labatolosa is a long vanished city on a hill in The town on la Puebla de Castro, 32km north of Monzon. If you're really into Roman stuff, you might want to find a way to get up here.
It looks impressive:


The Huesca Museum had an exhibit about it, but it appears to have been temporary:

El Museo de Huesca recreará la curia de la Labitolosa

www.radiohuesca.com

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

And to back up a bit. For those who are into things Roman I found this:

LA CIUDAD ROMANA DE LABITOLOSA - VIATOR IMPERI

0 (0) Aragón – Huesca / LABITOLOSA (Tarraconensis) El municipio de La Puebla de Castro está situado...

viatorimperi.es

Labatolosa is a long vanished city on a hill in The town on la Puebla de Castro, 32km north of Monzon. If you're really into Roman stuff, you might want to find a way to get up here.
It looks impressive:
View attachment 108442

The Huesca Museum had an exhibit about it, but it appears to have been temporary:

El Museo de Huesca recreará la curia de la Labitolosa

www.radiohuesca.com

Did we walk through barasona? (Sparrow REALLY wishes she had a map)…it’s just 7-8 km walk from there

Las mejores rutas de Senderismo en La Puebla de Castro, Aragón (España) | Wikiloc

Encuentra las mejores rutas de Senderismo en La Puebla de Castro, Aragón (España). Descubre los lugares más bonitos del mundo, descarga tracks GPS y sigue el itinerario de los senderos más top desde un mapa. Graba tu propio recorrido desde la app, sube la ruta y compártela con la comunidad.

es.wikiloc.com

 

[VNwalking]

Did we walk through barasona? (Sparrow REALLY wishes she had a map)…it’s just 7-8 km walk from there

No not even close. Monzon's pretty much due south. But I got curious, and there are plenty of places to stay in Barasona, with the lake right there.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I’m confused if we stayed at the minimalist place in monzon or in berbegal. But it’s an 8 hour walk or 30 min ride (if we can find a taxi). I suppose it depends on taxi availability or ability/desire to add 2 days of walking. And if there’s a place to stay (looks like some CRs and a campground). Taxi split with other pilgrims might work

edit: a review of the nearby Church of San Ramon mentioned hot springs…and I will say I agree about the angels with mustaches

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I'm imagining that if you surrender to the allure of having the view of the mountains dead ahead, you are probably going in the wrong direction. Except for one short stretch of due north walking on a paved road right before Ola, the camino runs WNW here, so the mountains should be ahead and to your right. Is this correct, CCvets?

This screenshot shows the camino displayed over a IGN map. You are correct @VNwalking.


Except, there is a section south of Tierz between kilometers 13 & 14 where you head southerly. I turned around to grab this picture of the mountains.

 

[VNwalking]

You are correct

Ah good to know.
Keep the mountains to the right!
That's a seriously gorgeous photo, Rick. Is that castle in Tierz?

a review of the nearby Church of San Ramon mentioned hot springs…and I will say I agree about the angels with mustaches

Let's go! How could one possibly turn down mustachioed angels in hot springs. . .

Wait.
They're not?
Oh.

Well, let's go anyway. Separately is good too.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

That's a seriously gorgeous photo, Rick. Is that castle in Tierz?

Thank you. It looks to be the Castle of Montearagón about a kilometer or two north of Tierz. The red pin is where I took my picture.


I didn't even try to visit. I had shopping and errands to do in Huesca and it was Halloween and everything was going to be closed the next day for All Saints Day. It was fun in the evening watching families Trick or Treating downtown at the shops. I had seen a good number of store windows along the way showing Halloween merchandise but the Trick or Treating was a complete surprise.

This gets you to Google Maps information for the Castle of Montearagón with pictures and even 360⁰ views from its interior.

Castle Montearagón · Entidad Zona I, 1, 22191 Quicena, Huesca, Spain

★★★★☆ · Castle

maps.app.goo.gl

And here's a tourism page in English about the castle.

Montearagon Castle

Robust fortification of the eleventh century that served to reconquer the Muslim plaza of Huesca in 1096. Sancho Ramírez ordered the construction of the Castle-Abbey, to guarantee the siege of the city, beginning the construction of the church in 1093, and founding a monastery by moving from the...

turismo.hoyadehuesca.es

 

[VNwalking]

Looking ahead at our final three stages - planning is in order!~

The next Gronze stage is Bolea. It has at least one cafe, Casa Rufino (I had dinner there in 2019), and Google Maps shows another, Bar Muralla. I'm not sure of grocery availability. You will need to carry one to four days food beyond Bolea and you probably have to get it in Huesca.

Probably the most important advice I have for walkers of the Camino Catalan is about the last two or three stages (Bolea to Santa Cilia on the Camino Aragonese). Gronze's webpages for the Catalan divides this stretch into two stages with La Peña Estación separating them. However, they do not have any lodging listings for this town. I assume they expect you to take the train that passes through town to either Jaca or Huesca and come back the next day. Or possibly do a taxi shuttle. The first stage of the two stages they say is 28.6 kilometers and the second stage is 31.0. They give approximate walking times of 8 hours plus or minus. This is in hilly country.

Laurie and Lee did this:
Huesca to Sarsamarcuello (40 km)
Sarsamarcuello to Botaya (34 km)
Botaya to Santa Cilia (about 12.5km)
Long stages for the stong of leg and stout of heart. There be hills in these stages.

I broke up the walk into 3 stages. Bolea to Sarsamarcuello (15 km); Sarsamarcuello to Ena (24.2 km); Ena to Santa Cilia (20.4). This was in early November and the shorter stages helped keep me from walking in the dark.

I would recommend that, if you can, you walk another 7.5 km past Ena to stay at the youth hostel in Botaya. This gets you closer to next day's highlights of the new and old monasteries of San Juan de la Peña and thus you have more time to explore them.

I should mention that there are other places to stay in the area but I'm just mentioning the cheap ones.

I haven't looked up those other options; just posting this as a heads-up.

And on top of that there are additional.possibilities. I have to admit being aclittle geographically lost here, Rick:

one of the L.Z. videos attached below there is a suggestion that allows you to squeeze in two sights that you might otherwise have to bypass. I missed these but you shouldn't. Stay 3 nights in Sarsamarcuello. On the first morning head back past Loarre to visit the Castillo de Loarre. On the second morning go forward to see the Ermita de San Miguel and the Torre de Marcuello. Then a little ways past them the road forks. The camino goes to the right, the road to the left goes to Mirador de los Buitres, the vulture overlook. On the third morning head for Ena or Botaya. As this is a seldom walked camino you would probably have no trouble getting to stay the extra nights.

I need to have a map at hand to make sense of it!

Be sure to carry enough food into town though as the only place to eat is at the local's social club and I'm not sure if you'll look pitiful enough for you to get fed there. Also have enough food for Ena or Botaya.

I'm sticking to @Smallest_Sparrow, who's been practicing.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Stay 3 nights in Sarsamarcuello. On the first morning head back past Loarre to visit the Castillo de Loarre. On the second morning go forward to see the Ermita de San Miguel and the Torre de Marcuello. Then a little ways past them the road forks. The camino goes to the right, the road to the left goes to Mirador de los Buitres, the vulture overlook. On the third morning head for Ena or Botaya

I need to have a map at hand to make sense of it!

OK, from Gronze.

There is no lodging in La Estación Peña. Ena, Botaya, San Juan de la Peña and Santa Cilia are on the next stage.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I'm sticking to @Smallest_Sparrow, who's been practicing.

I thought I was sticking with you bc you got fed and I starved my first four days.

Ok, technically I didn’t starve in Roncesvalles…I didn’t realize the meal was three courses and I’d burned a lot of calories trying not to die, so I ate a huge plate of pasta and when they offered seconds took them. Then out came the trout, which I also finished. Mmmm trout….but after that it was pretty grim for awhile

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Going on record as being super disappointed we won’t be seeing the Grail, but I will console myself somehow. This may

edit (sorry tech support emergency next door): this may involve either serious amounts of time in side trips to ermitas or dessert. Which brings up that four days of food again…like food for all three meals for four days?

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Hey @Rick of Rick and Peg if I’m following correctly (sort of a huge assumption) then the day of shuttling back and forth from sarsamarcuello involves a pretty steep up and down from the ermita and vultures mirador…or it looks it on gronze. Am I going to be muttering about you the next day as I go past these places? Or is taxi service available

re the train, I tried looking at where the stations were from la pena estacion and it didn’t look like it ran to the other Camino towns but I could be totally looking at the wrong town on the map. I used the feve to shuttle back and forth my last few days on the Norte to ensure a more solitary walk and that worked well but that seemed like a more built up area than this seems…

 

[oursonpolaire]

Hey @Rick of Rick and Peg if I’m following correctly (sort of a huge assumption) then the day of shuttling back and forth from sarsamarcuello involves a pretty steep up and down from the ermita and vultures mirador…or it looks it on gronze. Am I going to be muttering about you the next day as I go past these places? Or is taxi service available

re the train, I tried looking at where the stations were from la pena estacion and it didn’t look like it ran to the other Camino towns but I could be totally looking at the wrong town on the map. I used the feve to shuttle back and forth my last few days on the Norte to ensure a more solitary walk and that worked well but that seemed like a more built up area than this seems…

The train from La Pena station goes from Zaragoza to Jaca via Sabinanigo and is up a level from the Feve on the del Norte. If you are walking from Loarre/Sarsamarcuello to La Pena Estacion then up to San Juan de la Pena, there is an albergue in Ena of which other threads have spoken well, and the hospitalero has in the past arranged for meals, with notice.

​

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

and is up a level from the Feve on the del Norte.

I liked the FEVE, it felt like a cross between the Baltimore light rail and the Disneyland train after three days of shuttling on it to my beach hotel I felt like a local

 

[oursonpolaire]

I liked the FEVE, it felt like a cross between the Baltimore light rail and the Disneyland train after three days of shuttling on it to my beach hotel I felt like a local

As did I, and I had the pleasure of introducing 3 Californians to it out of Muros de Nalon after one had sprained an ankle. I had visions of hobbits wheeling carts with sidra natural and embutidos down the aisle as we rocketed along.

I once took it all along from Ribadeo to Bilbao to catch my flight back to Canada (long story, involving great chats with Aeroplan with a former pilgrim who did wonders for a ticket for me) and had an agreeable half-hour teaching some Asturian teenagers "Fare Thee Well Nova Scotia."

 

[VNwalking]

an agreeable half-hour teaching some Asturian teenagers "Fare Thee Well Nova Scotia."

Maybe they are on the Norte, but at least these mountains are not dark and dreary. Nor sea-bound. Just complicado. And no grail. But one amazing Monasterio is coming up.

Here's what I would do. Suck it up and do one long stage and then two shorter ones. And no trains needed (we can still bellow out Fare Thee Well to Nova Scotia though ).
Huesca to Sarsamarcuello (40 km)
Sarsamarcuello to Ena (27.9 km includes an ~4.5km detour to 3 miradors and back to the camino)
Ena to Santa Cilia (about 19.3 km)

I'm enthusiastic about the vultures but will pass on the castillo at Loarre. However there is one other possible short detour righr before turnoff to the miradors - the ruins of the Ermita de San Miguel, and up by the Castillo de Marcuello, the Ermita de la Virgen de Marcuello. The first doesn't add anything to the day, the second is about 500m roundtrip.

SARSAMARCUELLO-ERMITA DE SAN MIGUEL-Rutas romanicas por el altoaragon-A.Garcia Omedes

If staying in Ena, there is the possibility of meals:

there is an albergue in Ena of which other threads have spoken well, and the hospitalero has in the past arranged for meals, with notice.

But we have questions of those of you who've done this before:

Which brings up that four days of food again…like food for all three meals for four days?

I thought I was sticking with you bc you got fed and I starved my first four days

I thought I was the navigator and you were the one who could turn on the pathos at appropriate moments? I may have misunderstood but if I got it backwards...believe me, we're toast. Pathos is not in my repertoire.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Hey @Rick of Rick and Peg if I’m following correctly (sort of a huge assumption) then the day of shuttling back and forth from sarsamarcuello involves a pretty steep up and down from the ermita and vultures mirador…or it looks it on gronze. Am I going to be muttering about you the next day as I go past these places? Or is taxi service available

It isn't bad. I checked on Wikiloc; about 300 m of elevation gain over about 6.5 km. I figure that at less than 5%. The torre/castle and ermita are on the way. At someplace after the junction with the dirt road the dirt road the camino follows takes a dive. It was badly eroded and was the worst stretch of camino I came across. A taxi won't take you down there but you might get one for the vulture viewing area. Consider that you might spend more time there then in walking to and fro.

re the train, I tried looking at where the stations were from la pena estacion and it didn’t look like it ran to the other Camino towns but I could be totally looking at the wrong town on the map. I used the feve to shuttle back and forth my last few days on the Norte to ensure a more solitary walk and that worked well but that seemed like a more built up area than this seems…

I didn't want to train anymore than I had already on the Barcelona to Monserrat stretch but if I did I would have gone to Jaca. Back to Huesca was a possibility but it's a longer trip.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

A taxi won't take you down there but you might get one for the vulture viewing area

I didn't want to train anymore than I had already on the Barcelona to Monserrat stretch but if I did I would have gone to Jaca. Back to Huesca was a possibility but it's a longer trip.

ok Thanks! I read a review on the vulture place, said the walk was much safer than the drive so….besides thanks to your math I know it won’t be bad

I’m starting to think shuttling isn’t necessary, nor carrying four days worth of food if I’m willing to stop at non standard places rather than albergues, so I’m good. But I don’t mind shuttling, thank God for the FEVE or I’d have never been rid of some persistent Camino Romeos on the Norte. I guess riding the train to the Pentagon got me used to commuter trains

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

And no grail. But one amazing Monasterio is coming up.

I thought I was the navigator and you were the one who could turn on the pathos at appropriate moments? I may have misunderstood but if I got it backwards...believe me, we're toast. Pathos is not in my repertoire.

Well there used to be a grail. Lots of intrigue and subterfuge. Now I’ve got to go to Valencia. (There needs to be a disgruntled sparrow emoji) just doesn’t do.

my pathos is more believable when begging for church keys but I’ll do my best with getting us fed.

I’m in for the ermitas (always, no need to ask). Ditto for vultures, bears, wild cats or the potential for landslides. Just keep us below 50 km per day and make sure I get coffee somewhere.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I just re-read a portion of gronze talking about being sure to buy food in various towns to carry two towns forward while on the Primitivo, when I didn’t—I carried candy, nuts and water, and not a lot of those (including Napoleon and Hospitales), until I discovered magdalenas and those replaced candy. Mmm, magdalenas

So I’m thinking this four days of food business is either for people who don’t eat in cafes, or it’s some sort of misdirection, like Primitivo people always talking about bears to keep everyone else away. It looks like there are either bars or cafes or stores in many towns. Am I wrong?

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Sarsamarcuello to Ena (27.9 km includes an ~

That might be a six hour walk but include any time you spend at the Mirador de Buitres and any searching for food at La Estación Peña.

Speaking of food, perhaps you can contact someone at the Sarsamarcuello Social Club ahead of time to ask if you might be able to eat there. Also, I'm remembering, hopefully correctly, that there was some free food left in the cabinets at Ena. Botaya might also have some food available at the hostel if you show up when open for their regular non-pilgrim guests. Again, you better ask in advance.

Lots of houses in Ena and Botaya were in very good shape. In Botaya I paused to rest and eat and I had a short conversation with the only person I saw in town. Apparently most of the houses have been passed down to family members and used for weekend and vacation use.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I guess riding the train to the Pentagon got me used to commuter trains

It was less than an hour's walk for me (but, since I didn't work there, who cares?)

 

[oursonpolaire]

I just re-read a portion of gronze talking about being sure to buy food in various towns to carry two towns forward while on the Primitivo, when I didn’t—I carried candy, nuts and water, and not a lot of those (including Napoleon and Hospitales), until I discovered magdalenas and those replaced candy. Mmm, magdalenas

So I’m thinking this four days of food business is either for people who don’t eat in cafes, or it’s some sort of misdirection, like Primitivo people always talking about bears to keep everyone else away. It looks like there are either bars or cafes or stores in many towns. Am I wrong?

You are quite right. There are three bars & a comedor in Bolea, a hotel restaurant in Loarre , as well as a café in the Castillo, and a restaurant in the camping a km north of the pueblo. Basic groceries can be had at a bar in Loarre as well as at the bakery. I always carried nuts, a few oranges, and a tin of tuna or some similar fish for emergency rations but I have done this route three times and was never hungry.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I know some were wanting shorter steps not longer, I’ve been trying to follow along (not always successfully) on gronze.com and while many of our virtual stops are driven by albergues it seems there’s a fair number of Intermediate stops in towns with hotel and casa rural options, if that matters.

 

[VNwalking]

it seems there’s a fair number of Intermediate stops in towns with hotel and casa rural options, if that matters.

Yes, it does - it's very useful! So if you see things like that, feel welcome to post what you've found.

(There needs to be a disgruntled sparrow emoji)

Here you go.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

go.

Stealing this.
The problem with the other stop options is there’s no good way around the La Pena Estacion stop rather than walk through it or take a train (as @Rick of Rick and Peg pointed out)…or I imagine a taxi or bus. If there are trains I assume they will also have other commercial transportation. Also gronze warns that much of their info is outdated … even we are pretending we can stay in currently closed albergues (per gronze) so if/when we do this for real of course everyone will need to see what accommodations and bars survived. It could mean a lot of bus/taxi/train shuttles.

One commentator walked in 2020 and writes this:

Camino catalán desde Girona en época de pandemia (2019-2020, tramo Montserrat - Santa Cilia de Jaca) | Camino de Santiago | Gronze.com

Primera parte del relato: Camino catalán desde Girona en época de pandemia (2019-2020, tramo Girona - Montserrat) MONTSERRAT-IGUALADA (28 kms) Tienes que salir del albergue antes de las 8. Como todavía era de noche, me voy a la misa para hacer tiempo. Mejor indicado para bajar que para subir.

www.gronze.com

in it Sara mentions using the train to solve the la pena estacion issue (took it to Jaca) and warns there aren’t many trains (which I found trying to find a train when Rick mentioned it as a possibility.

if I were planning to walk this but couldn’t handle longer stages I’d probably look at what gronze lists and break up the stages that can be broken with a willingness to stay in a hotel (Sara mentions when she had to do that none exceeded 25 euro but I don’t know about that, hotels listed in gronze were more). Then I’d contact an albergue or hotel on either side of La Pena Estacion to see if they have a recommendation—they might be willing to shuttle if you spend 2-3 days, or know someone who’d do it cheap.

hopefully those here who’ve walked this recently could advise better but it sounds like everyone who walked walked the long stages so may not have asked about other options.

 

[VNwalking]

One commentator walked in 2020 and writes this:

Thanks SS, this is a super resource. I''ve copied the entirety of the machine translated account, and will edit previous posts to include.pertinent information. I never checked this part of Gronze before and see I've been missing a goldmine!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Thanks SS, this is a super resource. I''ve copied the entirety of the machine translated account, and will edit previous posts to include.pertinent information. I never checked this part of Gronze before and see I've been missing a goldmine!

The and “resources” have led me to many a giant ball of string and to the best tortilla patas on the Norte if not all of Spain IMO.

I like eroski also

Camino Catalán por San Juan de la Peña

caminodesantiago.consumer.es

also but I prefer the comments (called snarky by someone on the forum) on gronze (which autocorrect keeps making grinder )

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I found this on eroski

http://www.laspenasderiglos.es/pub/documentos/documentos_Touristic_map_Las_Penas_de_Riglos_ca4ccdb7.pdf

It’s a tourist map that has some sights and the train and some camp grounds mapped…I don’t have time to explore now (waaayy overdue for voting so must go do that) but I’ll share now if anyone is interested

 

[VNwalking]

I’m starting to think shuttling isn’t necessary, nor carrying four days worth of food if I’m willing to stop at non standard places rather than albergues, so I’m good.

Ditto.

That might be a six hour walk but include any time you spend at the Mirador de Buitres and any searching for food at La Estación Peña.

Vultures could eat up a ton of time. So a re-think.
After sitting on this for a day or so, and looking at your map, @Smallest Sparrow, I'm considering not to try longer stages. So as per usual, I'm describing bite-sized days.

So let's start at the beginning.
Day 10 Huesca - Bolea (21.6km)
Not a huge stage, but I'm noting @peregrina2000's word to the wise. Almonds and cherries onboard!

Almost all of this day was spent off-road, which is generally great for the feet, but there were lots of stretches of paths covered with small rocks, which is less of a pleasure. In Bolea, after about 26 km, we had our first break (there is virtually nothing between Huesca and Bolea) and learned we were entering a part of Aragón where lots of fruit is grown.

But it's not without stopping places:

I had my first coffee in Chimillas, 6.8 km after Huesca, in the bar in the center of town.

This looks quite straightforward, including an albergue in town:

The exit to Huesca is well marked and is fairly flat the first 20 km to Bolea (where one could stop for the day in the municipal albergue).

Is it open now, in covidtime? It's listed as open in Gronze. But Sara's remarks in the Gronze link @Smallest_Sparrow posted above said no:

HUESCA-BOLEA (21 kms)

Short, easy and flat stage, almost all on dirt roads and today with a lot of shade (finally !!!)

Only 1 bar in Chimilla and nothing else until Bolea.

In Bolea, a closed hostel, and I stay at Casa Rufino (which was also closed, but when I called, they left my room anyway). Room very good and good treatment. There is some other bar in town.

In the afternoon I take the opportunity to visit the Collegiate Church of Bolea and have a drink in one of the bars, where I meet some shepherds that I had met in the morning and they are very nice, they invite me and we have a good time chatting.

The church was built in the XII C, but most of what is there was built in the 1500s.

Santa María de Bolea Collegiate

Bolea, situated on a promontory intercepting the countryside with a commanding position over the plain, is enhanced at its highest point by the Santa María Collegiate. There is a magnificent view of the homes clustered around it on the hind slope facing the Gratal peak, and Bolea invites us to...

turismo.hoyadehuesca.es

 

[SabsP]

I see that Bolea belongs to the town of La Sotonera.

La Sotonera

www.lasotonera.es

 

[VNwalking]

Oh, wonderful nuggets of information pn that site! Thank you @SabineP !

The oldest written historical reference that of Bolea we have dates from the 10th century. It was one of the main Muslim strongholds during much of the Middle Ages, as a fortified nucleus of great strategic interest. The fortress was called in Arabic Talía and also Buluya. In the 16th century it became a Villa. Among its rich artistic treasure, the Collegiate Church stands out, built between 1535 and 1556, with the lavish altarpiece of the main altar, attributed to the Court Painter Pedro Aponte. The church of Santo Tomás and the hermitages of La Trinidad, Mueras and Santa Quiteria are other elements of interest, as well as the remains of the old Muslim fortress.

 

[SabsP]

Bar A Muralla for food in Bolea

Bar La Muralla in Bolea - Restaurant reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant Bar La Muralla. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

There is also a bar La Muralla in town to make it a bit complicated.

Details of the albergue.

Albergue de Bolea

Albergue de Bolea | Dirección: Junto al Polideportivo, en la parte baja del pueblo | Localidad: Bolea (Huesca). Pertenece al municipio de La Sotonera

caminodesantiago.consumer.es

 

[VNwalking]

There is also a bar La Muralla in town to make it a bit complicated.

A Muralla and La Muralla? If those two bars are owned by different people, the town social dynamics must be really 'interesting.'

A Muralla photos make my decision easy. See you all there.

 

[SabsP]

A Muralla and La Muralla? If those two bars are owned by different people, the town social dynamics must be really 'interesting.'

A Muralla photos make my decision easy. See you all there.
View attachment 108986

Another option is Casa Habanero.

Casa Habanero in Bolea - Restaurant reviews

I recommend you to visit the restaurant 🍻 Casa Habanero. Find more about this place with Restaurant Guru App.

restaurantguru.com

Anyway..feel free if I'm overloading this thread. Really should learn how to multiquote etc..

 

[VNwalking]

Anyway..feel free if I'm overlading this

No problemo Thank you!
It looks like there are at least 5 places to eat in this not huge town. Casa Rufino also gets good reviews.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

A warning about Bolea, it's a hill town.


The camino enters the town going uphill on its southeast reaching the camino's highpoint at or near the plaza mayor between Bar a Muralla and Casa Habenero. There is food and lodging at Cafe Rufino a little ways downhill but if you are going to stay at the municipal albergue it is at the base of the hill. You may want to eat when you are already up on top of the hill. The albergue is at the town's sport center on Calle Carreterra, see the red dot on the map below. You will need to call to get in. Two years ago the number was posted across the street from Cafe Rufino.


I did a lot of going up and down in Bolea. It really wasn't bad but worse than if the town were level. I had dinner at the Cafe Rufino. Since today marks the twentieth anniversary of the attacks on the World Trade Center towers I'll add a picture of what was behind the bar.

 

[VNwalking]

Good to know! You stayed in the albergue, Rick?

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Good to know! You stayed in the albergue, Rick?

Yes, I did. I didn't have to call though. A sign on the albergue door said to enquire for the number at Cafe Rufino (odd!). They told me the number was posted outside. It was across the street (odd!). I braced myself to make a call in Spanish (I hate phones even when I'm going to speak in English). I was saved just in time by a local from Huesca with excellent English who had the number on his phone. He came to Bolea often to use the albergue as a base for hiking in the area and he and the hospitalero were on very friendly terms.

 

[VNwalking]

I braced myself to make a call in Spanish (I hate phones even when I'm going to speak in English). I was saved just in time by a local from Huesca with excellent English who had the number on his phone. He came to Bolea often to use the albergue as a base for hiking in the area and he and the hospitalero were on very friendly terms.

Lucky you! (I thought I was the only one who felt this way about phones.)

It sounds like a minor treasure hunt to get the key. What was the albergue like?

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

It sounds like a minor treasure hunt to get the key.

It wouldn't have been if I had the telephone number written down before entering town.

What was the albergue like?

Sorry, I should have written about this yesterday but a beautiful autumn day was calling me outside.

The albergue was okay. It was small but there aren't many pilgrims on this camino so it will do. There were five bunk beds upstairs and everything else was downstairs. One toilet and shower off the single lounge/kitchen/dining area with one table. I can't clearly remember the wifi status but I think there was none. It was in an inconvenient location as I mentioned and shown but since Bolea is such a short distance from Huesca your legs should still have enough power to get up uphill if you want to. And you can roll yourself back when you are ready to call it a night.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Vultures could eat up a ton of time. So a re-think.

Vultures get a bad rap

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

View attachment 109067 Vultures get a bad rap

Not here they don't.

IMG_20190403_205640.jpg

• Brandy
• Dec 26, 2020

Wildlife on the hills near Irun