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Variante Espiritual Aug. 15th & 16th 2015

Time of past OR future Camino
Most recent: Fall 2023 Aragonés, Frances
Really happy to have walked this route. It's very well marked and mostly quite beautiful.

Aug. 15th ~ Pontrevedra to Armenteira.

About 1/2 hour after crossing the Ponte do Burgo from Pontrevedra, there is an abandoned factory on the left and the sign for the left turn off to the route. The first 10 km or so are through vineyards and small hamlets past the Monasterio de Poio (worth a stop to explore) and then the route winds down to the ocean at Combarro.

The next 7 or 8 km are mostly straight up, starting with a very steep climb out of Combarro. Make sure you have enough water and food as there are no services until Armenteira. It's a lovely walk for the most part. The first kms are along a winding tarmac road and then onto a dirt / rocky road through the woods. Some beautiful views along the way. The final 3 km are a descent along a dirt road, leading on to a path through the woods, along a stream. Very pretty.

In Armenteira, the accommodation options are in the hostel at the monastery or in the albergue. If you are staying at the albergue, which is another 5 or 10 minutes past the village, you need to check in at the tourist office at the monastery. They will call the hospitalero, arrange to have the albergue opened up and give you directions to the building. If the tourist office is closed, you can also check in at one of the two bars and someone there will make the call for you. The woman at the tourist office didn't have any information on the price of the hostel or whether there was space available, which was odd since the office is located at the monastery. She said arrangements had to be made with the nuns. I didn't pursue this as I was staying at the albergue.

The albergue was clean and comfortable. There were only 4 other pilgrims. It has 16 beds and no kitchen facilities. There was a coffee machine. It was raining when we arrived so there wasn't an option for hanging laundry outside. The bars in the village do not open until 9am, and the next possible place for breakfast is 7 km away, so it is a good idea to have some food with you for breakfast. There wasn't an open shop in the village. Dinner was at the bar closest to the monastery - very good meal.

Aug. 16th ~ Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

The first 5 km of this stage is one of the most memorable walks of any of my caminos. It follows "La Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua", the Route of Stone and Water. It's a landscape of great natural beauty - old growth moss covered trees, narrow twisty paths along a river and old stone water mills. Truly stunning. Emerging from the woods, the path continues through vineyards and wider open woods along the river to Barrantes (first option to stop for breakfast) through Puente Arnelas and into Vilanova de Arousa.

The albergue in Vilanova is in a sports complex that was under renovation. It's staffed by a wonderful hospitalero and great facilities. About 18 or 20 beds. There were only 2 other pilgrims. Kitchen and lounge area. There is a laundry service available - 4 euro each for wash & dry. No outdoor lines if you do your own laundry but lines are strung in the very large bathroom.

On arrival at the albergue it was very disappointing to find out that the boat to Pontescures / Padron would not be running the next day as it would be docked for repairs. The options are to walk the 28 km to Padron or to walk 6 km to Vilagarcia de Arousa and take the train or bus to Padron.

There is a wonderful museum in Vilanova. The Casa Museo of the writer Ramón del Valle-Inclán. Really worth a visit for the museum, lovely house and gardens. Entry for pilgrims is free.

One other note about Vilanova. If you arrive on a Sunday, there are absolutely no shops open. There are many restaurant options for dinner.
 

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Last edited:
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Yes, the walk from Armentiera is beautiful. Magical. Probably the most beautiful walk I have ever done!
I suggest that you call ahead to the Albergue in Vilanova so as to check out availability and, of course the time of the boat service, which changes daily, according to the tide. We were lucky, because it left early morning, but sometimes it might leave, just as you are about to arrive and there you are, stuck for a day!
 
Really happy to have walked this route. It's very well marked and mostly quite beautiful.
Thank you so much for this write-up. It's now on my bucket list :)
 
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