Two peregrinas on the Invierno

[peregrina2000]

So LT and I finished the Camino Aragonés and made it to Puente La Reina. From there to Pamplona and then an 8 hour (aargh) train to Ponferrada. My knee has been giving me some trouble and the first day on the Invierno from Ponferrada to As Médulas wasn't the best idea. 32 km up and down , with another 8 or so walking around the amazing site itself left me kind of gimpy. So today in Sobradelo we said our goodbyes. LT will go on ahead and I'll bring up the rear. We had a wonderful time together but this is the right thing for both of us. So you can get the "slow camino" report from me and the more energetic report from LT.

The Invierno marking has improved dramatically since I walked a few years ago, and there are posted signs in many places that the Xunta is spending money on the "acondicimiento" of the Camino De Invierno. So I expect the traffic will increase steadily. All that's needed are
albergues. Beautiful scenery. Pretty towns. We just need a few more pilgrims!!

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Laurie, take care of your knee and look forward to further posts.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I'll see you tomorrow in O Barco de Valdeorras!

 

[peregrina2000]

But tomorrow I'll be in A Rua. We have to talk. I will email you

 

[maricristina]

Laurie, Good wishes from me and do be careful about that knee. As I wait for an arthroscopy on a knee and an operation to mend a broken wrist next week I am very sympathetic to your problem. I am glad to hear marking is better on the Inverno. It is such a good route and you are right to say it deserves more pilgrims. Hope you & Rebekah meet up.
Sorry that sounds like " I'll trump your knee with a knee and a wrist!" However a bad knee on a Camino is far worse than any problem at home.
You must agree that a wonky knee and a broken wrist are pretty good excuses to be wallowing at home instead of walking a Camino just now!!
With very good wishes and prayers for you and thanks for all your wonderful posts,
Maricristina

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi Laurie
You're on another of your wonderful journeys.
Very impressed to see how you're dealing with the bad luck with your knee too! Showing us all that you actually 'do' what you advise others to do. I mean, not pushing and trying to stay with your friends. I hope the ice is helping. 32k up and down is a long haul, so much more energy required than when scooting along an easier stretch. Even if you are fit. I'm feeling for you though if you still have a gimpy walk. Have a rest day - you deserve it.

The Invierno sounds so nice I'm surprised that more peregrinos don't slip off onto this route from Ponferrada.
I wonder why that is? You would think it would be like the decision time on the Noete, where people split off to do the Primitivo at Villaviciosa. Maybe a lot of people just aren't aware.
With the legs/knee; is the heat a factor at the moment walking? Especially in the hills with a back pack, I thought it might be tough in the heat right now.

I'll be following to see how you go and enjoy the walk to Santiago, and to hear more about the Invierno.
It's so cold back here I'm envying everyone on Camino at the moment.
Annie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Can't wait to read your report, but especially that your cooperates once again soon.

 

[annakappa]

Laurie, do be careful with that knee. I had an elephant knee after walking down from S. Juan de la Peña and after a couple more hobbling days, took a grateful lift as far as Puente, where I could but a knee support, plus the usual pain killer/ disinflamantory medicaments.
Las Medulas is a fantastic site. A sort of mini Monument Valley and well worth the visit. I'm surprised that more Pilgrims don't take a day off and make a visit there.
Take care!

 

[peregrina2000]

So nice to wake up alone in a Hostal and feel the connection and friendship from my forum friends.

My knee is doing ok, and yes it was hard to say goodbye to my amigos (in As Medulas we were three--we met a very nice guy from Avila soon after starting out from Ponferrada and had fun exploring As Medulas together).

Now as a member of the "walking wounded" I can say with confidence that the very best way to deal with an injury is to break off and walk alone. I think it's really the only way to insure that you will listen only to your body.

With a very short day today and an early departure I can also avoid a lot of this crushing heat.

And now that the Xunta is officially behind this Camiño and spending money on it, I am pretty sure the numbers will grow quickly.

Buen camino and thanks for the support! Laurie.

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Good luck , careful with your knee and watch out for the heat. On June 3rd (in another thread) I said it was forecast to rain. It never came. It has not for months, well apart from a few drops on about 2 days. It is very dry here.

 

[peregrina2000]

I thought I would have to change the title of this thread after LT and I went off on our own ways, but once again we are two peregrinas on the Invierno. I don't know how I've been so lucky, but after one short day alone on the Invierno (O Barco to A Rua), I am now walking with Reb and it has been glorious. One long hot but beautiful day along the Rio Sil to Quiroga, and now a very lovely pine forest day to A Pobra de Brollon, and the spotlessly clean family run Hostal, As Viñas, where kinky is very fondly remembered.

Tomorrow to somewhere beyond Monforte. For some reason, even though there are few albergues snd virtually no other peregrinos, this FEELS like a camino. I am loving it. Buen camino, Laurie.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Have a wonderful time, Laurie, and take care of your knee!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

We did four or five days before I shlepped back home to deal with Real Life. This little camino is a total escape, a real tonic for the soul. Rest assured, Laurie has yet another friend lined up to join her on the tail-end of her long trek!

 

[Luka]

Laurie, I am coming after you!

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Laurie, I am coming after you!

She is hiding! I cannot post where though.
BTW Rebekah. I spotted a photo of you on twitter yesterday.

 

[KinkyOne]

I thought I would have to change the title of this thread after LT and I went off on our own ways, but once again we are two peregrinas on the Invierno. I don't know how I've been so lucky, but after one short day alone on the Invierno (O Barco to A Rua), I am now walking with Reb and it has been glorious. One long hot but beautiful day along the Rio Sil to Quiroga, and now a very lovely pine forest day to A Pobra de Brollon, and the spotlessly clean family run Hostal, As Viñas, where kinky is very fondly remembered.

Tomorrow to somewhere beyond Monforte. For some reason, even though there are few albergues snd virtually no other peregrinos, this FEELS like a camino. I am loving it. Buen camino, Laurie.

Hi, Laurie!
On your blog I've seen you & Reb stayed at Torre Villariño. Can you share info on how much you have paid as it looks really nice.
Thanks!

 

[peregrina2000]

20 euros is the pilgrim price. Very nice family run place. Pool! We had a good meal there too, I think it was 15 but I could be wrong.

Location is great. It's very close to that crazy intersection with all the signs. So the next day to Chantada is very manageable.

 

[peregrina2000]

So I became a single peregrina again when real life pulled Reb home from Chantada. The first day was to Rodeiro, and I was able to figure out the slight confusion in our guide about the way down from Alto do Faro.

I'm in Lalin. I had a wonderful rest day yesterday after my walk into Rodeiro at Casa Santo Estevo. This time I managed to stay awake to watch the stars and the satellites darting across the night sky? Can't remember the last time I stayed awake till 12:30 as a peregrina. But the next day was a rest day so I slept in till late!

Last night I slept in Rodeiro at the Guerra and had a short day to Lalin. No need to rush since I'm meeting a friend from Madrid who's coming to walk the last stage from Ponte Ulla. So I have some short days ahead. I had thought about going on to Laxe today but the albergue was just fumigated and I'd prefer not to breathe all that stuff. I found a two star hotel in Lalin with a pilgrim special. 35 euros for room, breakfast and the main meal. Good price/quality ratio I think.

In 7 km I'll be off the Invierno and on the Sanabres for the rest of the way. I really do love this Camino. I'll get the guide revisions as quickly as I can, but you really don't need the guide--at least not for walking because the marking is really great. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Luka]

Glad to hear the marking is great! I couldn't find the Spanish guide, so will walk with your fabulous guide and some internet sources. Your stories have gotten me even more excited!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

She is hiding! I cannot post where though.
BTW Rebekah. I spotted a photo of you on twitter yesterday.

Post it here, Ribeira!

 

[peregrino_tom]

Excuse me jumping on this thread, but I just completed the Invierno on Wednesday. A few points to share, which might help.
About 200m from the Municipal Albergue in Ponferrada, where (I think) the Frances and Invierno diverge and the Invierno takes a road to the left to the bridge, is a little hut on the right which is the office of the camino Amigos de El Bierzo. I found top man Roger Moran working there and he kindly typed out some brief contact details and recommendations for the Invierno. I have photographed these and attached them. I couldn't get the Reb guide to work on the apps on my nokia phone so I used screenshots from the Gronze pages and Roger's information sheet - and it worked out really well.
I compressed the trip into 9 stages with the first one finishing in Puente Domingo Florez (about 34k) and the second finishing in A Rua (about 30k). Thereafter standard stages to Quiroga, Monforte, Chantada, Rodeiro and then A Laxe, Outeiro and Santiago. I speak only a few words of Spanish and I met no other pilgrims, besides two cyclists whizzing by early on.

Waymarking - excellent for the first three days and tapering off a little after that. The one place I lost an hour was coming out of Quiroga. At the first village (Nocedo?) the marker stone appears to point down into the village, but you will not find markers down there and are better off continuing up the road where the markers continue after 200m. Also, after Rodeiro I had more problems, but people were very helpful in redirecting me. There are a lot of yellow arrows on move-able brick-like stones, but these all appeared to be facing the right direction.. there are a lot of unmarked forks and you just have to work out the one that looks like the continuation of the road you are on to stay on the correct route. There is no way marking through Lalin at all, but you just head for the main road to Santiago and walk up that until way markers appear a few km later.

Accommodation. I stayed in:
Puente de Domingo - Hostal Mayo (€20?)
A Rua, the brilliant private albergue A Casa a Solaina (€12?) - great people and nice meal. But note: It takes about 30 mins to get there from when you first enter A Rua, via a circuitous route - but you will arrive there eventually.
Quiroga, the town albergue (not a pilgrims' hostel). Unstaffed after 5pm, it seemed empty at first but some people are residing there. (En suite €10?).
Monforte, at Hostal Duquesa (on the sheet) in a street of nightclubs, but actually quiet. Ensuite €17 and she did my washing for which I made a donativo.
Chantada, at Hostal Yoel, which was nice and also central €18 en suite. Try the first bar on entering Chantada, called Piolindo, run by Rachel. She will likely help you find the place you want to stay and serves the best (charcoal grilled) tapas I'd had for weeks!
Rodeiro, at Pension Carpentieras €18 en suite plus good meal for €10. It's about 250m further up from O Guerra, right at the top of the street and quite new.
The great thing about this route is that pilgrims are still a novelty on it and people are curious to know about you and to help you. Enjoy!
Cheers, tom

 

[Ribeirasacra]

Post it here, Ribeira!

Here you are. The photo size is quite small.

 

[mspath]

What a great photo of a famous duo! I tip my hat to both of you!! You two personify true camino spirit. Thanks for all your efforts across the years.

Ultreia!

 

[peregrina2000]

View attachment 19842 View attachment 19843 Excuse me jumping on this thread, but I just completed the Invierno on Wednesday. A few points to share, which might help.
About 200m from the Municipal Albergue in Ponferrada, where (I think) the Frances and Invierno diverge and the Invierno takes a road to the left to the bridge, is a little hut on the right which is the office of the camino Amigos de El Bierzo. I found top man Roger Moran working there and he kindly typed out some brief contact details and recommendations for the Invierno. I have photographed these and attached them. I couldn't get the Reb guide to work on the apps on my nokia phone so I used screenshots from the Gronze pages and Roger's information sheet - and it worked out really well.
I compressed the trip into 9 stages with the first one finishing in Puente Domingo Florez (about 34k) and the second finishing in A Rua (about 30k). Thereafter standard stages to Quiroga, Monforte, Chantada, Rodeiro and then A Laxe, Outeiro and Santiago. I speak only a few words of Spanish and I met no other pilgrims, besides two cyclists whizzing by early on.

Waymarking - excellent for the first three days and tapering off a little after that. The one place I lost an hour was coming out of Quiroga. At the first village (Nocedo?) the marker stone appears to point down into the village, but you will not find markers down there and are better off continuing up the road where the markers continue after 200m. Also, after Rodeiro I had more problems, but people were very helpful in redirecting me. There are a lot of yellow arrows on move-able brick-like stones, but these all appeared to be facing the right direction.. there are a lot of unmarked forks and you just have to work out the one that looks like the continuation of the road you are on to stay on the correct route. There is no way marking through Lalin at all, but you just head for the main road to Santiago and walk up that until way markers appear a few km later.

Accommodation. I stayed in:
Puente de Domingo - Hostal Mayo (€20?)
A Rua, the brilliant private albergue A Casa a Solaina (€12?) - great people and nice meal. But note: It takes about 30 mins to get there from when you first enter A Rua, via a circuitous route - but you will arrive there eventually.
Quiroga, the town albergue (not a pilgrims' hostel). Unstaffed after 5pm, it seemed empty at first but some people are residing there. (En suite €10?).
Monforte, at Hostal Duquesa (on the sheet) in a street of nightclubs, but actually quiet. Ensuite €17 and she did my washing for which I made a donativo.
Chantada, at Hostal Yoel, which was nice and also central €18 en suite. Try the first bar on entering Chantada, called Piolindo, run by Rachel. She will likely help you find the place you want to stay and serves the best (charcoal grilled) tapas I'd had for weeks!
Rodeiro, at Pension Carpentieras €18 en suite plus good meal for €10. It's about 250m further up from O Guerra, right at the top of the street and quite new.
The great thing about this route is that pilgrims are still a novelty on it and people are curious to know about you and to help you. Enjoy!
Cheers, tom

Too bad we didn't meet up! I'm in Bandeira and was sad to leave the Invierno.

I'm sure this info will help Luka and any other people on their way to the Invierno.

Just one comment about leaving Lalin. The arrows pick up about two or three blocks downhill from the church. When you have the church at your back, just walk straight down and you will come on to the "paseo fluvial" (River walk), which you can follow for several kms. Very shaded and pleasant. From there you'll see the arrows to take you up to the N-525, through the industrial park of Lalin and then under the highway to the Laxe albergue.