LIVE from the Camino The Adventures of Dani7 on the Camino Francés

[Rick M]

I suggest that you stop off at Moratinos tomorrow for second breakfast, they have a great selection of tostadas. You are about halfway down the Frances now, and for most, the "kinks" of the first bit have been worked out. Look after your feet. And since you are a music fan, allow me to share one of my favorite Camino anthems, which you have likely heard before. Maybe now you can really hear it for the first time.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0YwbAmCwz8

 

[Dani7]

Day 23 - Ledigos to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos 26.5 kms

Left the albergue at 6:05 am. For the first two hours I was wondering why I saw no other pilgrims and then I realized that they had taken a short green route that I missed (but wanted to take).

Then saw them as we were walking to Sahagun where I stopped for a café con leche and a napolitana (a sugar splurge ). bought some ear plugs (yay ) and some snacks and fruit for breakfast and off I went to take the green route to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. And then…no tribe!! Saw no one in front of me and no one behind me and after an hour or so I felt forlorn. Despite walking alone the majority of the time by choice, I realized today that seeing other pilgrims gave me security and a sense of belonging.

The last two days I found hard mentally. Staying focused, one foot in front of the other, but today’s walk I felt somewhat disconnected from “The Way. Communal meal tonight did a reset. Tomorrow continuing on the green route. I’ll take it one step at a time.

Today is Mother’s Day. My first without my little mom. She was my best friend and I feel so blessed to have shared that friendship with her. She is with me . To all mothers out there. You are all amazing women! This song is for all of us and my little mom!

 

[alexwalker]

Tomorrow you will pass through (or stay in) Reliegos, with the famous Bar Elvis near the exit of the village. It appeared in the movie The Way. Have you noticed strength buildup after weeks of walking? can you walk farther days now?

 

[Dani7]

Tomorrow you will pass through (or stay in) Reliegos, with the famous Bar Elvis near the exit of the village. It appeared in the movie The Way. Have you noticed strength buildup after weeks of walking? can you walk farther days now?

Thanks for the Bar Elvis heads up. Had heard about it numerous times on this forum. Will definitely drop in.

Yes. Going up hills is much easier and I’m seeing a difference in endurance

 

[J Willhaus]

Day 23 - Ledigos to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos 26.5 kms

Left the albergue at 6:05 am. For the first two hours I was wondering why I saw no other pilgrims and then I realized that they had taken a short green route that I missed (but wanted to take).

Then saw them as we were walking to Sahagun where I stopped for a café con leche and a napolitana (a sugar splurge ). bought some ear plugs (yay ) and some snacks and fruit for breakfast and off I went to take the green route to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. And then…no tribe!! Saw no one in front of me and no one behind me and after an hour or so I felt forlorn. Despite walking alone the majority of the time by choice, I realized today that seeing other pilgrims gave me security and a sense of belonging.

The last two days I found hard mentally. Staying focused, one foot in front of the other, but today’s walk I felt somewhat disconnected from “The Way. Communal meal tonight did a reset. Tomorrow continuing on the green route. I’ll take it one step at a time.

Today is Mother’s Day. My first without my little mom. She was my best friend and I feel so blessed to have shared that friendship with her. She is with me . To all mothers out there. You are all amazing women! This song is for all of us and my little mom!

My husband served at the donativo albergue in Hermanillos in 2021. Cute little farming town on the old Roman road. Not many trees for shade tomorrow so take plenty of water.

 

[Dani7]

Day 24 - Calzada de los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mulas approx 23.7 kms

Slept in a bed with linens . Off now to continue on the Roman road and will veer into Reliegos to stop at Bar Elvis

Time for a dance. This one will get us all moving. See you on the other side.

 

[Shona]

Wonderful photos and so glad that you had good company on that long stretch.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 24 - total kms 23.4

What a day. I don’t want to sound whiny but that’s what I was doing this morning. that Roman road had Arthur Ozzy talking to me all morning “what the hell are you doing taking this road ” me: “I had no idea it would be this hard a path on the feet”. Arthur: “Well you could have researched that more” me: “Oh piss off!” And on it went.

Then I starting thinking. What about the poor people who built this road centuries ago.
I stopped whining while my feet were

Then I got a what’sapp message from the hostal I’m staying at tonight. It is 6kms from Mansilla de las Mulas. “We will pick you up by taxi at 2pm in front of the supermarket. Buy what you need for your supper. Man!! It was 12:06 and I was in Reliegos. I had some walking to do to find a cafe bar as I desperately needed my first cafe con leche of the day. I asked a local where Bar Elvis and he looked at me like “what bar?!” So…with time of the essence, I did not have time to go looking for it and duh… never even thought of Google maps .

But I can tell you this. I’m 5’3” and have short legs…well those little legs were speed walking all the way to Mansilla. Poles flying. Arms swinging. Cardio output high. And I got to the DÍA supermercado in 1h10 min. I was booting it

Forgot to mention a funny story leaving Ledigos yesterday morning. That path into Ledigos had all those bushy trees in flower now with beautiful little yellow flowers that emit the most wonderful scent. At dawn yesterday, I stop to smell them and they smelled awful. I say to myself. “They smelled so good yesterday afternoon, do they have a different smell in the morning! Can’t put my finger on it but it kinda smells like shit!!” LMAO 50 metres further the smell of cow dung was so clearly evident, the cilia in my nose were burning lol Yep. I’m that gullible. If you go fishing to catch a naive person, I’ll be the first to bite the line. As much as that can be annoying to me..to be that naive…those traits keep me curious and sunny with a smattering of child like innocence. But…annoying as hell because people who know me always catch a fish !

So at the end of the day, add another disappointment to my Camino list, did not see Bar Elvis but I was proud of my feet and body. They did not fail me today. They were champions

So this song is a perfect choice

 

[alexwalker]

Yes, the walk towards and after Mansilla de las Mulas is not the best way...

Too bad you missed Elvis. It is ca 100 m. off the Camino, to your right, as you leave Reliegos. Sorry I forgot to be specific....

However, you will soon be in Leon. New challenge. When leaving Leon, be very careful: the main path to Astorga is dreaded by many, me incl. But there is a much better way:

The way out of Leon is very well marked, but the continuation is VERY bad: Highways, thundering traffic, etc. Walking roadside almost all the way to Astorga. Disgusting. But: 7 kms after Leon there is an alternative: Take left at the end of La Virgen del Camino and walk to Villar de Mazarife. Stay there, will be my advice. Next day is a peaceful walk all until Hospital de Orbigo, almost in Astorga. Highly recommended. Just walk out of Leon and take the alternative route.

By taking this Way, you are walking a great Way all until Hospital del Orbigo. At the end of Hospital del Orbigo, you come to a crossing, giving you the possibility of going straight on, or taking right to Villares del Orbigo. Take right, and enjoy yet another peaceful walk all the way to Astorga. I recommend it. Villares del Orbigo has 2 albergues, a bar, and is a very nice little village/place to spend the night, giving you a nice 17 kms walk the next day into Astorga. Or you can stay behind in Hospital de Orbigo, which is a larger place.

By taking these two diversions, the walk from Leon to Astorga is tranquil, except, maybe, for those first 1.5h., 7 kms out of Leon. No big deal.

Edit: Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain. There's (at least) one specialized chocolate shop in town. Try some

 

[J Willhaus]

Well, what did you get for supper? Hope you will have other pilgrims to share the meal with...

 

[Dani7]

Well, what did you get for supper? Hope you will have other pilgrims to share the meal with...

I made a pasta salad with chick peas, sweet onion, green and red bell peppers, a zucchini, olives and tomato. It was really good. 3 other pilgrims had some.

 

[Dani7]

Yes, the walk towards and after Mansilla de las Mulas is not the best way...

Too bad you missed Elvis. It is ca 100 m. off the Camino, to your right, as you leave Reliegos. Sorry I forgot to be specific....

However, you will soon be in Leon. New challenge. When leaving Leon, be very careful: the main path to Astorga is dreaded by many, me incl. But there is a much better way:

By taking this Way, you are walking a great Way all until Hospital del Orbigo. At the end of Hospital del Orbigo, you come to a crossing, giving you the possibility of going straight on, or taking right to Villares del Orbigo. Take right, and enjoy yet another peaceful walk all the way to Astorga. I recommend it. Villares del Orbigo has 2 albergues, a bar, and is a very nice little village/place to spend the night, giving you a nice 17 kms walk the next day into Astorga. Or you can stay behind in Hospital de Orbigo, which is a larger place.

By taking these two diversions, the walk from Leon to Astorga is tranquil, except, maybe, for those first 1.5h., 7 kms out of Leon. No big deal.

Edit: Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain. There's (at least) one specialized chocolate shop in town. Try some

 

[Dani7]

Thanks Alex I appreciate the details of this alternate route.

 

[VNwalking]

Edit: Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain. Buy some

The chocolate bars I got in Astorga were not that great, IMO. Rubbery, and not that tasty.

The chocolate that you drink, on the other hand? Mmmmm. There's a good chocolateria in Leon, not far from the Plaza Imaculada. There's another one near the Cathedral, but this one's better. Drink one for me, 'kay Dani?

Onward buen camino! Really enjoying your posts!

 

[alexwalker]

Thanks Alex I appreciate the details of this alternate route.

I can recommend Albergue Casa de Jesus in Villar de Mazarife. It is at the very entrance to the village.

 

[VNwalking]

Agree with Alex about avoiding the road after Virgen del Camino. The alternative is very nice!
I went twice to Albergue San Anton de Padua in Mazariffe. A special place, I highly recommend it.

 

[alexwalker]

Agree with Alex about avoiding the road after Virgen del Camino. The alternative is very nice!
I went twice to Albergue San Anton de Padua in Mazariffe. A special place, I highly recommend it.

I see that the WP app has some less favourable reviews of albergue Tio Pepe in Mazarife. I wouldn't know. I was happy with Jesus , and knowing your experience, @VNwalking , I believe "your place" should be a good place, too.

I get the impression that our friend @Dani7 is vegetarian, so will try to take that into account if I have future comments.

 

[VNwalking]

The vegetarian food at San Antonio was actually the draw. On another camino (before I stayed there) I had a really nice salad for lunch there and so stayed the next time I went through.

The lunch is a bit pricy by pilgrim standards...but it was so much better than the usual iceberg and pale tomato salad.

 

[alexwalker]

It is a relief to walk this peaceful alternate route in stead of walking along the ordinary heavily trafficed route for 3 whole days... I wish more pilgrims knew about it.

 

[David Tallan]

Astorga is the chocolate capital of Spain. There's (at least) one specialized chocolate shop in town. Try some

I believe there is also a chocolate museum, at least there was last time I walked the route.

 

[Dani7]

I can recommend Albergue Casa de Jesus in Villar de Mazarife. It is at the very entrance to the village.

Actually I’m walking on to Villavante and yes I’m a vegetarian

 

[Dani7]

Day 25 - Mansilla de las Mulas to León approx 18.8 kms

Despite having the most comfortable bed and linens not only on this Camino but I think in all my travels…I was restless and sleep was in and out. .

Took some time to plan ahead to where I’ll be staying. This is time consuming and required concentration so after 90 min my brain was fried.

I stayed at Casa Miguel and Sally. Can’t say enough good things about this private home that has so so much space not only with bedrooms and beds but so relaxing and the amenities are top notch.

So…since I’m a bit discombobulated this morning let’s go with this see you on the other side.

 

[VNwalking]

Took some time to plan ahead to where I’ll be staying. This is time consuming and required concentration so after 90 min my brain was fried.

Maybe try winging it? If you stay between guidebook stages, there is usually space.

 

[Dani7]

Maybe try winging it? If you stay between guidebook stages, there is usually space.

I like to take my time when walking. Take pictures. Go off road if I see something interesting. I would not be relaxed winging it as well as doing that. Better for me to take some time to plan ahead. Even though it can be tedious in the end it’s worth it for me. And I will definitely have that glass of chocolate with you in mind when I go to Astorga.

 

[J Willhaus]

Leon will be a good place to look for those shoes you mentioned a while back.

 

[VNwalking]

And I will definitely have that glass of chocolate with you in mind when I go to Astorga.

Gracias!!

 

[Dani7]

Leon will be a good place to look for those shoes you mentioned a while back.

Found them. Instead of buying walking sandals I bought a new pair of Timp 4’s. Mine were pure wore out. I’ve read that model does not last as long but they are so worth it.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 25 - 12.5 kms to Leon outskirts. 23.9 total

Taxi taken care of by albergue took us to Mansilla de los Mulas where we continued on our way. There were some green spaces walking to León so not all bad.

Was able to buy my new Altra Timp 4’s (whoever on the design team thought of this color must have been hungover lol). Color aside, instead of buying walking sandals I was in greater need of new shoes. Felt like my feet were walking directly on the earth despite the insoles. Threads were all worn out. Then I bought the necessities for supper and some added supplies for feet (I like this pink fluffy stick on stuff you cut to measure to put on backs of my heels that). All before 1pm.

Wanted to go see the Palacio Gusmanes…take a guess! Open everyday of the week except for…you guessed it…Tuesdays.

By now I’m letting go of these hiccups almost immediately although at the onset I was flustered a bit.

Leon has such a different vibe then Pamplona or Burgos yet it’s a big enough city that I felt lost in it. I’m just not that into “seeing the sites”. I was back quiet in my space by 6:15 pm.

This surreal world of daily long walks and the routine it entails makes me feel small and invisible in larger populated centres now. I’m glad I live in a small town back home.

I was a wanderer today and feeling a bit tired. Bed awaits and so does a longer walk tomorrow.

A blues song is in order.

 

[J Willhaus]

I really like the modern church in Virgin del Camino outside of Leon. Also enjoyed mass there and it is an active monastery. The brothers came into the service singing and afterwards they were having supper outside at tables with the locals. The walk out of Leon is kind of long and tedious and next to the road. If you take the variant after Virgin del Camino there will be more green space. Sounds like you have made some reservations along the way. If not, there is a nice and recently rennovated donativo albergue in Villadangos del Paramo on the traditional route. It is staffed by the same hospitalero organization that provides hospitalero voluntarios for Zabaldika, Granon, Hermanillos, etc donativos.

I always find it hard to be in the "city" after walking through the countryside day after day. Be well. Glad you found your new shoes despite the color available...

 

[alexwalker]

On your way out of Leon, just a couple 100m from the Cathedral plaza, you will see the Basilica of San Isidoro, probably the most important in Spain, from the 9th century, right in front of you. Inside, you can see, amongst many other things, this legendary artifact on display, which many researchers now believe contains The Holy Grail, the cup Jesus used at the last supper, inside. The cup is visible despite all the gold and jewels that has been added later:

Chalice's tower - San Isidoro Museum - Royal Collegiate Church

The body of the Chalice is formed by 2 cups of eastern Roman onix or agate one for the drinking vessel and one for the base dated in the first century.

www.museosanisidorodeleon.com

However, does not open until 10.00 AM ... On the other hand, Leon is one of those places to stay
for a rest day. Just saying.

You have crossed the Meseta now, as I am sure you know. A fantastic section of the Camino. I love the tranquil easiness of the Meseta. From now on (starting in Astorga) the terrain will be more varied. Enjoy your well deserved hot (and cold) chocolate when you arrive in Astorga!

 

[Pelt]

End of day 25 - 12.5 kms to Leon outskirts. 23.9 total

Taxi taken care of by albergue took us to Mansilla de los Mulas where we continued on our way. There were some green spaces walking to León so not all bad.

Was able to buy my new Altra Timp 4’s (whoever on the design team thought of this color must have been hungover lol). Color aside, instead of buying walking sandals I was in greater need of new shoes. Felt like my feet were walking directly on the earth despite the insoles. Threads were all worn out. Then I bought the necessities for supper and some added supplies for feet (I like this pink fluffy stick on stuff you cut to measure to put on backs of my heels that). All before 1pm.

Wanted to go see the Palacio Gusmanes…take a guess! Open everyday of the week except for…you guessed it…Tuesdays.

By now I’m letting go of these hiccups almost immediately although at the onset I was flustered a bit.

Leon has such a different vibe then Pamplona or Burgos yet it’s a big enough city that I felt lost in it. I’m just not that into “seeing the sites”. I was back quiet in my space by 6:15 pm.

This surreal world of daily long walks and the routine it entails makes me feel small and invisible in larger populated centres now. I’m glad I live in a small town back home.

I was a wanderer today and feeling a bit tired. Bed awaits and so does a longer walk tomorrow.

A blues song is in order.

Love your song choice! Your poor feet will need quite a few good pedicures when you get back home and colour of your shoes not that bad your doing real good girl...I so admire you

 

[VNwalking]

I like the new color!
And no doubt your feet will thank you every day.
Buen camino, as you head for the hills!

 

[Dani7]

Day 26 - Leon to Villavante approx 28 lms

Slept well. Stayed in a little apartment so I made my dinner and chilled out last evening.

I’ve been struggling inside last little bit. Stuff is coming up. Stuff that I’m trying to walk through and beyond. It comes and goes and that’s life isn’t it. You take what the day gives you and you have brutally honest conversations with yourself. Most importantly, I want to be patient and kind to myself. Life is not full of mistakes…it’s full of lessons!

That’s probably the reason I did not feel like visiting anything or walking around much. I’m dealing with sadness. One thing I know for sure. When emotions comes up, it’s best to face them, not swallow them down. There just isn’t enough water to keep them down.

So this morning as I walk and work through these feelings, this song will help me put one foot in front of the other. See you on the other side.

 

[J Willhaus]

There's so much time to think about thinking on the Camino. Maybe you've not had time before to fully realize your grief. A gift and a curse?

 

[alexwalker]

There's so much time to think about thinking on the Camino. Maybe you've not had time before to fully realize your grief. A gift and a curse?

A gift, and an opportunity, IMHO. If one is lucky; The Camino is doing its work on the pilgrims,

 

[KFH]

Forgot to mention a funny story leaving Ledigos yesterday morning. That path into Ledigos had all those bushy trees in flower now with beautiful little yellow flowers that emit the most wonderful scent. At dawn yesterday, I stop to smell them and they smelled awful. I say to myself. “They smelled so good yesterday afternoon, do they have a different smell in the morning! Can’t put my finger on it but it kinda smells like shit!!” LMAO 50 metres further the smell of cow dung was so clearly evident, the cilia in my nose were burning lol

Actually the difference is in the cow dung, not the flowers. The chemical makeup in the dung is such that as the day goes on and the pile heats up, certain chemicals evaporate and others come to the forefront, making for a much more pleasant odor. You can try this as you walk each day. Hour by hour, get a closer smell of various piles and you will see the difference as the day wears on. If you walk long enough you will eventually get an incredibly lovely smell out of many of them.
.
.
.
.
.
Hey-- you said you were gullible!

Have a great day and great rest of your Camino. Really enjoying your posts.

 

[Dani7]

Actually the difference is in the cow dung, not the flowers. The chemical makeup in the dung is such that as the day goes on and the pile heats up, certain chemicals evaporate and others come to the forefront, making for a much more pleasant odor. You can try this as you walk each day. Hour by hour, get a closer smell of various piles and you will see the difference as the day wears on. If you walk long enough you will eventually get an incredibly lovely smell out of many of them.
.
.
.
.
.
Hey-- you said you were gullible!

Have a great day and great rest of your Camino. Really enjoying your posts.

Sweet potato you had me going for a bit. the wheels were actually turning

 

[Dani7]

End of day 26 - total door to door 29.5 kms

I left my home a month ago today. Time seems to be going fast but also slow. Pilgrims talk and lose track of what happened where or when. A few days ago, in our minds, is actually a week.

After the day walking to Roncesvalles, this was by far the second hardest day physically and mentally. I walked 47,169 steps to get to Vallivante with no one in front of me or behind a lot of the time. Coming out of Leon we were a throng of pilgrims, changing our gait, as all we could do was follow the person ahead of us.

Once on the green route or “Real Camino Frances” as the signs say, it was much better. I walked all morning listening to birds and crickets sing their songs.

The way after Mazarife seemed never ending. I thought the village to my far far right was Villavante and it helped to set that as a goal. But…no no…it was not THE village. I had to keep on and make a hard left for another 45 min to an hour of walking. I had to listen to some music to keep my feet moving. By the end I was walking like a penguin.

I walked 7h45 min with no stopping for cafe con leche or food. The sandwich I had made this morning I had once I arrived. Three nature breaks in nature. And one of them I was almost run over my a herd of cows 30 or so) being led by a farmer with his wife at the tail end with two dogs herding then along. Had they come one minute sooner I would have been caught literally with my pants down. The stuff I had in my top lid was scattered as I thought I had toilet paper in my Fanny pack but no, it was in my pack lid. I really thought I was in a secluded area, shaded and lots of trees but their was a path . The cows were coming towards me as I was putting my stuff away. The farmer was pointing to the Camino path and I was trying to explain to him I had left no trace. We were not on the same page lol. Sweet mother of pearl but I was lucky today. I could have just reached a finger out and touched a cow’s nose. one minute sooner and that nose could have come up behind me

With the hard walk and concentration to put one foot in front of the other, the funk I was in left me as the kms added up.

When I was listening to some rock songs to keep me going this one came on. It reflects the change from this morning to end of day as the words to this song are spot on. The Camino provides.

PS. Still not chewing my nails !

 

[J Willhaus]

A long day for you...I love the herds of cows, sheep and goats in this rural part of Spain. Reminds me that people are still connected to the land. Also love seeing the care they put into their gardens along the way. Hope you get some good rest tonight after your long walk.

 

[VNwalking]

That endless straight road after Mazariffe...yeah. Grf. First thing in the morning is infinitely better than the afternoon, but either way it's hard on the mind.
Good on ya, Dani...well done.

 

[David Tallan]

On your way out of Leon, just a couple 100m from the Cathedral plaza, you will see the Basilica of San Isidoro, probably the most important in Spain, from the 9th century, right in front of you. Inside, you can see, amongst many other things, this legendary artifact on display, which many researchers now believe contains The Holy Grail, the cup Jesus used at the last supper, inside. The cup is visible despite all the gold and jewels that has been added later:

Chalice's tower - San Isidoro Museum - Royal Collegiate Church

The body of the Chalice is formed by 2 cups of eastern Roman onix or agate one for the drinking vessel and one for the base dated in the first century.

www.museosanisidorodeleon.com

However, does not open until 10.00 AM ... On the other hand, Leon is one of those places to stay
for a rest day. Just saying.

You have crossed the Meseta now, as I am sure you know. A fantastic section of the Camino. I love the tranquil easiness of the Meseta. From now on (starting in Astorga) the terrain will be more varied. Enjoy your well deserved hot (and cold) chocolate when you arrive in Astorga!

That's just one of several "Holy Grails" in Spain. There is another we saw in Valencia and I wouldn't be surprised if there were a third.

 

[Bradypus]

That's just one of several "Holy Grails" in Spain. There is another we saw in Valencia and I wouldn't be surprised if there were a third.

The chalice from the eucharistic miracle legend in O Cebreiro is sometimes linked with the Holy Grail myth too.

 

[Dani7]

Day 27 - Villavante to Astorga approx 20.8 kms

Slept good. Without the $1.90 euro ear buds I bought which are worth the price I paid for them. Will look for something else later today. Despite the snoring there were no heavy trains crossing the room back and forth.

Had a nice communal meal last night. France, Bulgaria, Slovenia, Taiwan, USA, Italy and Canada were represented out of 10 people. Despite our language barriers we managed to exchange and laugh.

Shorter day today. I’m motivated by that cup of chocolate waiting for me Despite yesterday’s long walk I’m none the worst for wear this morning. Going to keep going So let’s go with this. Dance with me…and see you on the other side.

 

[VNwalking]

Go Dani, go!

 

[doctorherman]

For a delicious mea in Astorga, try cocido maragato, best served at Casa Maragata 1 (less touristy than CM 2).

 

[Dani7]

End of day 27 - approx 20.5 kms, 26.8 total

Astorga is a beautiful city. It’s history, in part deeply rooted around the Camino and Christianity over the centuries, is formidable. It is anchored in tradition it seems, and I got to experience a little bit of it today by visiting the Gaudi palace and the cathedral.

The walk here was quite enjoyable. My eyes saw so much beauty and historical sites today. Although this morning it had to have been about -2C when I started out. The rest of the week seems to be on the cool side as well and a very cold start tomorrow morning is expected.

The terrain is changing again, and it’s wonderful to see the mountains in the background and to have more trees adorning the way. Today was a good day.

I did have my cup of chocolate and brought it back to my hotel. Dipped the cherries I had bought in it. Great combo . Should have had wine.

Paella verduras in my room with chocolate covered cherries. That’s a good day .

No reservation for tomorrow. WhatsApp does not always have results when used to communicate with albergues. I only have data so cannot make any calls. I’m going to wing it tomorrow and hope for the best

My journey on the way is moving along too quickly it seems. I felt a little tug at my heart while walking.

(I took so many pictures today. More tomorrow morning).

 

[VNwalking]

Paella verduras in my room with chocolate covered cherries. That’s a good day .

Oh, YUM!

My journey on the way is moving along too quickly it seems. I felt a little tug at my heart while walking.

Sigh.
We know the feeling.
Breathing into the preciousness of this...then letting it run through your fingers like sand.

 

[Rick M]

Much remains ahead of you. On my first Camino at this point we were walking for Foncebaden. We paused on the way out of Rabanal and looked at the steep incline that would finish the day. It was cold and raining on and off. My wife peeked through the fence at the Posada Gaspar bar, which is on the way out of town, and saw them offering strawberries to the guests at the bar as tapas. She looked at me with that "This is non-negotiable" face, and said "I'm staying here" as she headed into the bar. That place is now known to us as Rivendell, since it was the perfect refuge on what was a pretty miserable day.

 

[alexwalker]

Tomorrow/today it will be wise to stop in Rabanal. Several albergues there, Not least the donativo Gauchelmo.

Make it slow if you have the time. Your camino will soon be over. Do you want that? Take your time and enjoy the now, would be my advice.

 

[J Willhaus]

We have stayed at El Ganso a couple of times which has a nice albergue (and the Cowboy Bar). Because it is not on a stage, it usually isn't very busy. We thought the Patatas Bravas at the place next to the Cowboy Bar in El Ganso were the best we had ever had on the Camino. (might have just been really hungry though.) Phil has stayed in Foncebadon in the donativo (converted church). I do hear good things about the Confraternity of St. James albergue in Rabanal, too. Where ever you stay it will be the right choice for you... You'll be steadily climbing all day tomorrow.

 

[Dani7]

Tomorrow/today it will be wise to stop in Rabanal. Several albergues there, Not least the donativo Gauchelmo.

Make it slow if you have the time. Your camino will soon be over. Do you want that? Take your time and enjoy the now, would be my advice.

I have time but not as much as I’d like. I’m trying to find the right balance. Too little walking makes me antsy and too much is too hard on the body.

 

[Dani7]

Day 28 - Astorga to Foncebadon approx 25.2 kms

I stayed at the Posada Real Casa de Tepa. What a gift and treat for myself. The owner is in his 80’s now and the very large home has been in his family for over 200 years he told me. Tried to find out more about its history last night but no luck so far.

Going to be a cool/cold walk today. High of 14 in Foncebadon. Walking around last night it was downright cold with the wind.

As I set out, I reset myself to start anew and let the walking do the talking. My mind will rest. See you on the other side

The cross you see is the Cruz de Ferro from the 15th century.

 

[J Willhaus]

Wow a lovely place in Astorga!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Day 28 - Astorga to Foncebadon approx 25.2 kms

I stayed at the Posada Real Casa de Tepa. What a gift and treat for myself. The owner is in his 80’s now and the very large home has been in his family for over 200 years he told me. Tried to find out more about its history last night but no luck so far.

Going to be a cool/cold walk today. High of 14 in Foncebadon. Walking around last night it was downright cold with the wind.

As I set out, I reset myself to start anew and let the walking do the talking. My mind will rest. See you on the other side

The cross you see is the Cruz de Ferro from the 15th century.

Woohoohoo

Great music choice

 

[Kirkie]

Day 28 - Astorga to Foncebadon approx 25.2 kms

I stayed at the Posada Real Casa de Tepa. What a gift and treat for myself. The owner is in his 80’s now and the very large home has been in his family for over 200 years he told me. Tried to find out more about its history last night but no luck so far.

Going to be a cool/cold walk today. High of 14 in Foncebadon. Walking around last night it was downright cold with the wind.

As I set out, I reset myself to start anew and let the walking do the talking. My mind will rest. See you on the other side

The cross you see is the Cruz de Ferro from the 15th century.

Today I am out of my retreat from any posts or emojis. I can recommend such a break
How are you doing regarding your real live companions on the way?
Forgive me, you may already have commented.
I speak not of a camino family. That is not a priority for me.
That sentence is not a judgment. Just a fact.
I see more or less that this is a journey towards completion in some ways. I wish that to be so for you.
I may pause replies again - to be honest, it is good for my health not to mention others on the forum!

 

[Dani7]

Today I am out of my retreat from any posts or emojis. I can recommend such a break
How are you doing regarding your real live companions on the way?
Forgive me, you may already have commented.
I speak not of a camino family. That is not a priority for me.
That sentence is not a judgment. Just a fact.
I see more or less that this is a journey towards completion in some ways. I wish that to be so for you.
I may pause replies again - to be honest, it is good for my health not to mention others on the forum!

I have met pilgrims i see again now and then. We don’t see each other for a few days. Quick exchanges that are happy ones, always asking how we are doing, but like you a Camino family is not something needed but enjoyed when kindred spirits meet time and again.

As for taking breaks from the forum I’ve done that also over the years. I’m forever grateful for this forum. It got me here, feeling quietly confident that this was something I could do, despite trepidations and the “what ifs” of a first timer.

 

[alexwalker]

I have met pilgrims i see again now and then. We don’t see each other for a few days. Quick exchanges that are happy ones, always asking how we are doing, but like you a Camino family is it something needed but enjoyed when kindred spirits meet time and again.

As for taking breaks from the forum I’ve done that also over the years. I’m forever grateful for this forum. It got me here, feeling quietly confident that this was something I could do, despite trepidations and the “what ifs” of a first timer.

Hope you had a good day's walk. It must be a bit cold up there at +1.400 m. elevation.... Very interesting day ahead of you tomorrow.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 28 - 25 kms, Total 25.9

Well…as the tv series character Ted Lasso once said: "Taking on a challenge is a lot like riding a horse, isn't it? If you're comfortable while you're doing it, you're probably doing it wrong."

…and what an uncomfortable and bloody hard climb it was, first into Rabanal and especially into Foncebadon. Wow!!! And wow!!! Looks like my application for the Mensa group is now back into the « for consideration » pile .

The good thing though was that I felt my dad and heard him loud and clear for the duration of those climbs. Younger, and still to this day I often trip on my own feet . My Dad often told me « Dani, lift your feet up…you’re walking too close to the ground ». Say again Dad !!! We laughed every time he told me that. And boy did I have to lift my feet. Between the gnarly tree roots and rocks, some mud and crevasses…really had to stay focused and watch your feet and plan your route.

But I did it , so I’m a badass once again . When you think you can’t go another step, you do,.. over and over again.

Tomorrow morning I’m leaving at 6am to see the sunrise at Cruz de Ferro. It’s going to be super cold but I’ll put one foot in front of the other and if I’m lucky…I’ll hear my dad and feel him by my side, because on this journey I’m never alone. My
Mom and Dad and family are with me along with this wonderful community of pilgrims .

PS pictures of the Cowboy Bar tomorrow morning.

 

[VNwalking]

Yeah. That's a hill alright!
Badass Dani is well and truely out of the flatlands! Yay - Well done! Looking forward to reading of your days ahead....

 

[J Willhaus]

Tomorrow @Dani7 the difficult part is the going down. Lots of slick rocks especially on the second half when you are tired. Heed your dad's warning especially on that portion!

 

[henrythedog]

You can always stick to the road if it’s slippy underfoot on the way down.

 

[VNwalking]

You can always stick to the road if it’s slippy underfoot on the way down.

No, actually there is a much better alternative:

People, I want to shout from the rafters. Walk the Puentes de Malpaso trail from Riego to Molinaseca. It is shady, green, beautiful, and not steep or rocky.

There is a beautiful wooded trail from Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca. It is well known in the area, called the Puentes de Malpaso, and it passes by two very old bridges. It is not rocky and the grade is not outrageous. Details here

 

[VNwalking]

Here's a Wikiloc track, Dani:

Riego de Ambrós - Puentes de Malpaso - Molinaseca (El Bierzo)

Riego de Ambrós - Puentes de Malpaso - Molinaseca (El Bierzo) Hiking trail in Riego de Ambros, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Riego de Ambrós - Puentes de Malpaso - Molinaseca (El Bierzo) DESCRIPCIÓN DE RUTA: Partimos desde el bonito y...

www.wikiloc.com

It looks gorgeous.

 

[Dani7]

Day 29 - Foncebadon to Ponferrada approx 26.6 kms

Well, here goes. Have my headlamp to head out. Thanks for the heads up on what lies ahead. Slept well but woke up often. Opted for a private room so I could get ready at my leisure.

Had the best lentil soup last night and a big salad. Colon is happy !

This song says it all. Perfect for today.

 

[J Willhaus]

Your soup looks yum! I was super disappointed at Cruz de Fero as there were a ton of tour buses there, but the walk through the heather on top of the pass before you head down is very nice.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 29 - 26 kms, 31.8 total

Today can be summarized in five words- Beauty, Determination, Grace, Resolve and Gratitude.

Headlamp on, I left at 6:05 am and walked to Cruz de Ferro and shed a few tears as I touched it and felt it’s deeply rooted history. I did not leave my rock. That will be told in another post at the end of my pilgrimage.

This moment of grace did not last long as more pilgrims came, not waiting for their turn, just going up when someone else was there. The laughing and posing this way and that way and back again made me want to leave this sanctified place where pilgrims for hundreds of years paid their respects and left their sorrows.

The beauty of what I saw today did not compare to anything else so far for me. I took so many pictures. Everything was living art.

I was determined to get down the mountains and sadly I was not able to take the Puentes de Malpaso because the esim I have (which is beyond terrible) never gave me access to the internet. Even in big cities. On Monday the 29th I’ll buy a two week plan from Orange. And so…I was determined to get down. Started out walking normal, then like the tin man from The Wized of Oz and finished walking like a 90 year old woman with two canes. Brutal on my joints. Hard day. I stayed the course with resolve!!!

In the small village before Molinaseca the little church was open. These little churches ground me so much with their calming atmosphere. Simple. Authentic to their purpose. I gave thanks and felt gratitude while shedding a few more tears.

Ponferrada is a beautiful city and I had to choose to do only one thing as I was sore and tired. I chose the Templars fortress/castle. Not disappointed at all with my choice. The history is felt and seen in every part of it. Will post pictures tomorrow morning.

So I end today feeling blessed…for all of it.

 

[alexwalker]

The albergue Ave Fenix in Villafranca del Bierzo is a special, nice place. It is 24 kms from Ponferrada. The town is very nice. This is a district famous for its Bierzo wine quality.

After Villafranca, you are on your way to O'Cebreiro: I use to stop in the tiny village of La Faba (23,5 kms from Villafranca) on the way up there: A peaceful very small village. It is a steep climb up there, but having done it will make your next day easier. You will divide the climb to O'Cebreiro into 2 days. Very good.

There was a veggie Albergue there, but it burned down 2 years ago. But the other albergue, a German-run place, Albergue Ultreya, is very nice, with a garden, a small chapel etc., and there is a nice & friendly cafe in the centre of the village. Also a small tienda, if you want to buy some food/drinks.

The next day over O'Cebreiro, will have more climbs, but not as steep (after the beginning, that is...).

 

[VNwalking]

Right across the street from the Templar castle is a very very nice coffee and pastry place. Good for breakfast. Cafe Liebana, I think it's called. Not sure of the spelling, but you can't miss it..

 

[Rick M]

Yup, my favorite croissant on the Camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

Long day for you. Sorry the moment was spoiled at Cruz de Fero. Also sorry about the sim card thing. Very frustrating!

 

[Dani7]

The albergue Ave Fenix in Villafranca del Bierzo is a special, nice place. It is 24 kms from Ponferrada. The town is very nice. This is a district famous for its Bierzo wine quality.

After Villafranca, you are on your way to O'Cebreiro: I use to stop in the tiny village of La Faba (23,5 kms from Villafranca) on the way up there: A peaceful very small village. It is a steep climb up there, but having done it will make your next day easier. You will divide the climb to O'Cebreiro into 2 days. Very good.
Unfortunately I had already booked another albergue
There was a veggie Albergue there, but it burned down 2 years ago. But the other albergue, a German-run place, Albergue Ultreya, is very nice, with a garden, a small chapel etc., and there is a nice & friendly cafe in the centre of the village. Also a small tienda, if you want to buy some food/drinks.

The next day over O'Cebreiro, will have more climbs, but not as steep (after the beginning, that is...).

 

[Dani7]

Day 30 - Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo approx 26.6 kms

Holy cannoli. I slept to 6:45. . So much for an early start to my kinda long day!

So we need some get up and move it music. Like MOVE it music!!! Get your dancing feet going.

 

[Bergeron]

Seems to be the ultimate self awareness and self awesomeness experience...

 

[Dani7]

End of day 30 - 24.5 kms, 26.5 total

Leaving Ponferrada, the walk along the gurgling river and the birdsong with the sun poking its rays through the trees totally calmed me down. It would be a good day.

My bedmate beside me walked with me until Cacabelos. She wanted to take a break while I pushed on. Got to my hostal at 3pm. Some hard climbs today but walking beside peach, apple, fig and cherry trees as well as the vineyards made up for the discomfort.

It’s starting to warm up. 6C this morning when I left. But oh how the farm lands and regions need rain.

Last night I saw no one I knew and ate supper alone. Tonight I ate with six other pilgrims, one of which was the lady I walked with this morning. It was a lovely evening. Filled with camaraderie and laughter. My body, mind and spirit are full.

Another day of spectacular views and nature at its best.

A young person who walked past me just before Villafranca saw a cherry tree with ripe cherries beside the road and took a few and asked if I wanted any. I replied that I don’t like to eat food that is not mine to eat. He said “if the farmer did not want us to eat some, he would put up a fence” and I replied “what if he cannot afford to buy that fence” which he then said “that’s true”.

I’m definitely into the zen part of this pilgrimage. I feel so truly connected to all of me. I’ve been good company and feeling grounded. Getting older is such a gift.

“Let us endeavor so to live, that when we come to die, even the undertaker will be sorry.” —Mark Twain (June 1933)

This song may not resonate with some of you but the words hit home for me.

 

[alexwalker]

"The day you were born, you were crying, but everyone around you were happy and smiling. Live your life such that the day you die, everyone around you are crying, but you are happy and smiling".

 

[Dani7]

Right across the street from the Templar castle is a very very nice coffee and pastry place. Good for breakfast. Cafe Liebana, I think it's called. Not sure of the spelling, but you can't miss it..

That is the correct name. Through hit and miss what’s works best for me is to have my first coffee and something to eat after two hours on the road. But I was tempted to go in

 

[Dani7]

The albergue Ave Fenix in Villafranca del Bierzo is a special, nice place. It is 24 kms from Ponferrada. The town is very nice. This is a district famous for its Bierzo wine quality.

After Villafranca, you are on your way to O'Cebreiro: I use to stop in the tiny village of La Faba (23,5 kms from Villafranca) on the way up there: A peaceful very small village. It is a steep climb up there, but having done it will make your next day easier. You will divide the climb to O'Cebreiro into 2 days. Very good.

There was a veggie Albergue there, but it burned down 2 years ago. But the other albergue, a German-run place, Albergue Ultreya, is very nice, with a garden, a small chapel etc., and there is a nice & friendly cafe in the centre of the village. Also a small tienda, if you want to buy some food/drinks.

The next day over O'Cebreiro, will have more climbs, but not as steep (after the beginning, that is...).

I’m staying in La Faba tomorrow. Have something booked. Like you I wanted to split the climbs and start towards O’Cebreiro fresh the next day.

 

[alexwalker]

I’m staying in La Faba tomorrow. Have something booked. Like you I wanted to split the climbs and start towards O’Cebreiro fresh the next day.

A wise decision. The cafe in La Faba is nice, with friendly owners.

 

[J Willhaus]

Although you have already experienced the cows. We experienced our first daily cattle drives in La Laguna just above La Faba. You're close to Galicia now and O'Cebrerio is the home of the Camino's rebirth with Don Elias Valina (sorry, he has a ~ on the n, but I can't make my phone do it.) Best wishes! As you come to the end of this Camino, Phil and I will be arriving in Spain for our time as Hospitalero Voluntarios. Your accounts have convinced me that there are still pilgrims like you who will need our care. Enjoy your walk tomorrow. I would take the traditional path by the road if it were me but who knows if you will brave the higher Dragonte way?

 

[Dani7]

Day 31 - Villafranca del Bierzo to La Faba approx 23.5 kms

Slept poorly. Kept waking up. Went to bed too late and for me 3 glasses of wine is too much. That probably did not help . Mixed feelings this morning because I’m tired. Me feet are sore all over. My joints achy. So this is starting out to be a little bit of …feeling cranky today . As I set out soon walking will make this all go away as I focus on the present and one foot in front of the other. This is one of those days where I need to be most kind and patient with myself.

So chose this song because listening and dancing to it always smooths out the rough edges for me and I like the words. See you on the other side

 

[Dani7]

Although you have already experienced the cows. We experienced our first daily cattle drives in La Laguna just above La Faba. You're close to Galicia now and O'Cebrerio is the home of the Camino's rebirth with Don Elias Valina (sorry, he has a ~ on the n, but I can't make my phone do it.) Best wishes! As you come to the end of this Camino, Phil and I will be arriving in Spain for our time as Hospitalero Voluntarios. Your accounts have convinced me that there are still pilgrims like you who will need our care. Enjoy your walk tomorrow. I would take the traditional path by the road if it were me but who knows if you will brave the higher Dragonte way?

Without the hospitaleros voluntarios pilgrims would be hard pressed to make it to the other side. You are needed more than you can imagine. Your smiling faces and kind gestures and help at the end of a long day are balms for our bodies and our souls. Thank you for service. You are more than appreciated.

 

[Kirkie]

Day 31 - Villafranca del Bierzo to La Faba approx 23.5 kms

Slept poorly. Kept waking up. Went to bed too late and for me 3 glasses of wine is too much. That probably did not help . Mixed feelings this morning because I’m tired. Me feet are sore all over. My joints achy. So this is starting out to be a little bit of …feeling cranky today . As I set out soon walking will make this all go away as I focus on the present and one foot in front of the other. This is one of those days where I need to be most kind and patient with myself.

So chose this song because listening and dancing to it always smooths out the rough edges for me and I like the words. See you on the other side

You are right there, you know what you need to do, how you need to try to be. You know you can. So, buen camino today, chica!

 

[VNwalking]

As I set out soon walking will make this all go away as I focus on the present and one foot in front of the other

Pain is not giaranteed to go away, but how we relate to it matters. So.. good for you in giving it (and the crankiness) kind space.
Your spirit shines through, Dani.
Today is a beautiful day's walk, wherever you decide to stop. Buen camino!

 

[Dani7]

End of day 30 - 23.4 kms, total 25.7 kms

Did not take long to change my mood. Between the sounds of the river Valcarce all day and the happy birds as well as the warm sun, it was impossible not to be content. The walk today was absolutely spectacular!! Did not matter that for some of the early morning, we walked along a secondary highway. Once we turned right to go to Trabadelo, all the little villages were so rustic and charming. Just a beautiful walk all around.

I did not walk the green route. Met two pilgrims who were just finishing it and although they had an amazing breakfast, they ended up walking more than 4kms more and the climb and descent were quite challenging. Yay me for not doing that!

Stopped twice for breakfast and later a bowl of soup with coffees.

Absolutely did not expect that the walk up to La Faba would be in such an incredibly gorgeous forest. I did not mind the climb at all except for one muddy section. Lots of “vaca” dung there. . In cow country now!

Once at my destination, I did not like the vibe at all at my albergue. I had met two ladies in Ruitelan who asked me if I was going to La Faba. They were buying supplies for their kitchen. I thought I was staying there. They had such a lovely pleasant nature. Two German ladies.

So when I got here I realized that that was not the albergue I was staying in. After my shower and washing my clothes I still wasn’t feeling it where I was. So…I put my big girl pants on…and walked down to the other albergue to see if they had a bed available for me. The vibe there was so calming and soothing. They had one. I paid for my bed and said I would go get my things and come back. I gave the other albergue $10 and told them I had a friend staying at the other albergue and wanted to spend time with her as we had not connected for a couple of days.

A little white lie that in the end made all the difference to the end of my day. Yep…I’m really liking those big girl pants !!

An exceptional day that started on the shaky side and finished on the zen side.

Tomorrow I’m ready for that climb to O’Cebreiro . One foot forward at a time. Like one pilgrim shouted out today on the climb to La Faba…it’s just a road! Finishing my day in a really good place…that led me…to me

 

[alexwalker]

I think that the climb up to La Faba is the hardest part on the way to O'Cebreiro: You will start with another hard part tomorrow, but not near as long as today, and after that it is a very nice walk up to O,Cebreiro. Just hold on to your Zen mode. So now you are in the "German" albergue? A very nice place.

 

[J Willhaus]

No so steep the rest of the climb, but through more beautiful landscape.

 

[alexwalker]

After tomorrow you will be in Galicia. Great walks. Ups and downs. I have only one recommendation for you: After Triacastela, I would walk left, to Samos: It is an easier walk, and the monastery is gorgeous. Other than that, just walk on. But reflect: You will soon be in SdC, and your walk will be over. It is a two-edged feeling: You have reached your goal, but: Was that your goal? Or was your journey the real goal? I leave you to ponder... Anyway, maybe time for some reflections...

Hopefully, you have found new insights.

La Faba is truly a tranquil, tiny village staying in, before the leap over the mountain. Smart move by you.

 

[VNwalking]

The German Albergue by the church? One of my all time favs.
Stop for a cafe tomorrow in La Laguna, another really nice place. One of the nicest days on the Francés coming up...hope you have nice weather!

 

[alexwalker]

The German Albergue by the church? One of my all time favs.
Stop for a cafe tomorrow in La Laguna, another really nice place. One of the nicest days on the Francés coming up...hope you have nice weather!

Completely agree: A beautiful albergue.Take your time @Dani7 , and have breaks with refreshments tomorrow. No stress.

 

[Anamiri]

After tomorrow you will be in Galicia. Great walks. Ups and downs. I have only one recommendation for you: After Triacastela, I would walk left, to Samos: It is an easier walk, and the monastery is gorgeous. Other than that, just walk on. But reflect: You will soon be in SdC, and your walk will be over. It is a two-edged feeling: You have reached your goal, but: Was that your goal? Or was your journey the real goal? I leave you to ponder...

Hopefully, you have found new insights.

La Faba is truly a tranquil, tiny village staying in, before the leap over the mountain. Smart move by you.

I second that, turn left at the bottom of Triacastela and go to Samos. One of the nicest days walking on the Frances, almost the land that time forgot, and then the monastery.

 

[vaiciusc]

After tomorrow you will be in Galicia. Great walks. Ups and downs. I have only one recommendation for you: After Triacastela, I would walk left, to Samos: It is an easier walk, and the monastery is gorgeous. Other than that, just walk on. But reflect: You will soon be in SdC, and your walk will be over. It is a two-edged feeling: You have reached your goal, but: Was that your goal? Or was your journey the real goal? I leave you to ponder... Anyway, maybe time for some reflections...

Hopefully, you have found new insights.

La Faba is truly a tranquil, tiny village staying in, before the leap over the mountain. Smart move by you.

I 100% second Alexwalker. The Samos leg was my favorite day of the Camino. We saw only 3-4 pilgrims all day and the monastery was very cool. Woods in the surrounding area gave off mystical energy - really loved the walk to Samos. I was walking with my 13 year old son and he said he felt like he was being watched all day (but in a good way!)

 

[Bergeron]

Loving it Danielle!! and I know it is not the first, second or third time you sport big girl pants! You might just be enjoying them more now ; ) and appreciating the fit! No turning back ...can't put that genie back in a bottle...not with those pants! xo

 

[Dani7]

I second that, turn left at the bottom of Triacastela and go to Samos. One of the nicest days walking on the Frances, almost the land that time forgot, and then the monastery.

We are all on the same page. That was always my plan even when in Canada.

 

[Dani7]

Day 31 - La Faba to either Fillo al or Triacastela approx 25kms

Had a very decent night’s sleep even though I woke up here and there. I feel rested. Yes…the German albergue is and will be one of my favourites. People running it are so very nice.

Wasn’t thinking and bought about 1.5 lbs of cherries before the climb to La Faba which I shared with the pilgrims here.

I booked a bed in an albergue in Fillobal and tienes out it was the wrong day. Was supposed to be for today the 23rd but I booked for the 22nd. Told booking.com and they contacted the place. No response. I did same through booking. No responde. Booking told me to send them an email. Did so twice. No response. Then yesterday a pilgrim friend lent me her phone and number wasn’t working. So….I’ll walk there today and see if they will apply yesterday’s payment for today and advise them of all my efforts to reach them. If they charge me again, I won’t stay. I’ll take my chances at Triacastela.

So…to get me going. Up that hill. This is the song. Because you know “I’m bad to the…” see you on the other side.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 31 - 27 kms, 27.8 total

Incredible day…on all fronts. Physically the long, long down hill stretch was gruelling. And I had a bad tumble when I did not see the lip on the asphalt leading to the Camino path. My fault. I was just getting my phone out. Scraped my elbow and forearm real good, tore up some skin. Big old band aid. I couldn’t get back up and then rolled on my back. And there you have it. I was like a turtle on its back. I was definitely not in a position to get back up. A young man helped me. I cleaned and disinfected and away I went. The shower and soap cleaned the wounds well. If looks worse than it feels.

Thankfully that was not the highlight of my day.

I walked in clouds today. Literally. I was having breakfast in O’Cebreiro and all of a sudden fog everywhere. But it wasn’t that at all. It was big old clouds. Amazing experience.

Today was another day filled with visual gifts abounding. I took lots of time throughout the day to just admire the views.

I arrived in Fillobal at 1:30 and they only opened at two. So I continued on to Triacastela. And here I’m staying at the oldest private albergue in Galicia according to the hospitalero. This building is over three hundred years old. Such a kind and warm person. As real as you can get.

Short day tomorrow. Only 10 kms to Samos.

And…I so deserved some tomate chips

This Camino has shown me so much. I’ve learned so much. Seen and experienced so much up to now. I understand now why the pull is so strong. It’s never been about the destination for me. The journey is all of it. This song talks about someone waiting. Waiting for his life to begin.

Life does not wait for us. The sun rises and sets without us. For those who wonder about changing something in their lives or setting new goals. Time is not unlimited. Don’t wait too long. and take care of yourself. So when the time is right you’ll be able to do what you always wanted to do.

Internet is really slow. Will post the amazing pictures tomorrow.

 

[alexwalker]

You have become a true insightful zen peregrina IMHO. Perfect.

 

[Dani7]

Pictures from yesterday.

 

[Dani7]

Day 32 - Triacastela to Samos approx 10 kms

Slept well and dreamt a lot. I’ll be walking with a new group again as all those I’ve been seeing repeatedly will be one day ahead. Part of me is sad and yet Samos calls and listening to my heart is important.

The hospitalero here, Manuel is the kindest most empathic person. His warm personality and caring keeps the traditions of the Camino alive and well. It was so special to be at this albergue.

The journey continues…

 

[Dani7]

End of day 32 - 9.7 kms, 15.6 kms

If perfection existed. Today has been a perfect day. The walk to Samos is so very beautiful, and quiet. I let the most of the pilgrims set off, the majority of the time, before I take my first steps. It made for a wonderful, peaceful time with nature at its best.

About 10 minutes out of Triacastela, I suddenly became overwhelmed by gratitude. Feeling so very fortunate to be making that journey to Samos. I wept quietly and alone. A moment and a feeling I’ll never forget.

Once here. Had a coffee and glass of fresh juice and are one of my snacks. Just stirring and resting. I meandered to the monastery to find out the times for the tour and the noon one was about to begin. Luck will have it that a danish group’s guide spoke English and translated the tour guide’s entire presentation. Like I said. A perfect day.

I walked around to the albergue and was able to check in immediately by a very kind hospitalero voluntario. From there walked around. Had a cerveza and you guessed it…a small bag of chips.

Showered and walked over to the little supermercado and bought something for supper.

Mass was so very special as well. All pilgrims went to the front after the service and one by one we were blessed by holy water.

If perfection existed…then this is the perfect song for today. Because those two voices are gifts for the ears and blessings for the soul. I thought I would choose this song for Santiago. But it belongs here. I cry every single time I listen to it. It’s just that beautiful. And today was the most beautiful of days .

Will post pictures tomorrow.

 

[Rick M]

I am very happy for you, and just a little bit jealous because I know that feeling well. Most pilgrims do not make the walk to Samos, and that is a shame since it is a very special place on the Camino. But back to business. Prepare yourself for the change that starts tomorrow as soon as you arrive in Sarria. The old ways of the Camino change as soon as you set forth to Portomarin (where you should have a reservation). The good news for you is that you are passing through Sarria mid-week, rather than on a weekend. Expect a lot more people, a lot more cafes, a lot more albergues, a lot more tour groups, including teenagers, a lot more cyclists, and a lot more people selling Camino paraphernalia. Don't be surprised or annoyed when a tour bus flash mobs the Bar you were planning on getting a cafe at, or an angry tour group shouts into their mobile phones because the bus is late picking them up. Your immense feeling of gratitude may be tested over the next few days, but the magic is still there......provided that you can ignore some very un-Camino things that you may be seeing around you. Oh yes- those "volunteers" collecting signatures on those "petitions" for the disabled - are just crooks.....ignore them. The walk through Galicia is very beautiful. Buen Camino!