LIVE from the Camino The Adventures of Dani7 on the Camino Francés

[Dani7]

Well..after two decades on my list and 6 years planning…the day has finally come. Travel day to all fellow pilgrims on this forum…thank you for all your help, knowledge and advice.

I’ll be documenting my pilgrimage through pictures and music.

 

[Dani7]

 

[NorthernLight]

I hope it’s everything and more than you hope for. Buen camino!

 

[Dani7]

Homemade pizza at my girlfriends. 90 min to board and got through with my pack through security phew. I have an Osprey Kyte 48. Surreal. I have peed 6 times in the last 2 hrs

 

[Dani7]

Getting real now.

See you in Paris

Dani(elle)

 

[Bumpa]

Well..after two decades on my list and 6 years planning…the day has finally come. Travel day to all fellow pilgrims on this forum…thank you for all your help, knowledge and advice.

I’ll be documenting my pilgrimage through pictures and music.

As a former fellow Ottawan, I wish you all the best. Relax, enjoy. What happens will happen.

 

[Mahuri]

You will find the Camino Frances experience transformative. - Disconnect from the grid and savor everything. Buen Camino!

 

[DOB]

Looking forward to your posts!

 

[Tschempi]

Buen Camino, maybe we will meet…. I will be around… Camino provides.

 

[Dani7]

After arriving safely in Paris I had a 4h40 min wait time for flight to Biarritz…and I had decided long ago this was where I was going to start walking. I was not ready for how green everything is, and palm trees .

Walked first to Decathlon in Anglet on the way to Bayonne and bought my poles and then added 2kms extra litterally walking in circles from all the roundabouts here .

Bought myself supper to eat my room and chocolates from the store you’ll see in the picture. I thought I would potentially lose weight on this walk but I’ve had bread with every meal and that chocolate was « morish » as they say in Australia.

I did not find the rock for the Cruz de Fero that I had set aside years ago, so I picked one up at the airport and thought it was fitting. I almost had to pinch myself a few times to fully process that I’m finally doing this.

Saw this sign and it felt like a « are you kidding me » Serendipitous moment. In English it means: «Nothing durable can be built without confidence”

Tomorrow I stay an extra day in Bayonne to get over my jet lag. Over 32 hours without sleep.

I leave you with the song of the day because this is how I feel about starting my pilgrimage.

 

[Kathor1]

Hi @Dani7, your excitement and wonder is palpable and it is lovely to see what you find interesting and exciting in Bayonne . I remember some of your earlier posts and how long you have been planning this. Your photos are quite small (very few kbytes) - often it is the opposite problem, people upload photos with a size of several megabytes. What does the last photo show? A bank? Or is it the sign you mentioned? Have a good rest and Buen Camino!

 

[Dani7]

It is the sign I mentionned. I was asked to put thumbnails and I think it means put the smallest size which makes some of the pictures less clear. The sign reads: “Rien de durable ne se bâtit sans confiance. ».

 

[Cjoncas]

Well..after two decades on my list and 6 years planning…the day has finally come. Travel day to all fellow pilgrims on this forum…thank you for all your help, knowledge and advice.

I’ll be documenting my pilgrimage through pictures and music.

Danielle? Est-ce bien toi?

 

[Dani7]

Danielle? Est-ce bien toi?

Oui Caroline

 

[ficklegardener]

Dani-think I will be just 2/3 days behind you...Buen Camino!

 

[Cjoncas]

Danielle? Est-ce bien toi?

Que jai
rencontré à YUL?

 

[Dani7]

Day in Bayonne
Tomorrow I start walking and so today I’m just getting my bearings with the time change etc. Started my day with a walk through a park on the way to the cathedral to go to an 8:45 mass. The priest must have been 80++ years old and had a bad limp but he was there doing his purpose. For himself and for us.

Got me thinking…when you have purpose you forge on no matter the obstacles and challenges that come your way. My purpose on this pilgrimage is to stay in the moment and breathe in deeply all the lessons and beauty and challenges it will most surely offer me.

If this very old priest can do it…I can weather whatever comes my way Buen Camino to me!

I leave you with the song of the day…and hope you have one too

 

[Dani7]

Ending the day with a nervous stomach. This morning I got my shell and first stamp at the cathedral from a lovely lady called Marie-Anne who had done parts of it. Someone is there daily from 9am to noon.

A First World War memorial for Bayonne’s fallen soldiers. And nearby this tunnel that was surely a gate in the past…and some other pilgrim lost something important if he or she only had two. Look on the roof across my window lol you can’t tell what it is because of size of picture. It’s underwear.

Feeling a bit lonely tonight…waiting for the morning Sun

 

[Dani7]

Day 1- Bayonne to Cambo les Bains (approx 21.5 kms)

Slept fairly well. Stayed at the Hotel Côte Basque just across from the train station. 15 min walk to downtown and cathedral. Really liked Bayonne. So much life here and lots of young families. They had an outdoor fair and hearing all the children laughing and screaming on the rides lifted my spirits.

At the cathedral Marie-Anne gave me a printed copy of the Chemin de la Nive itinerary. Easier to read sometimes than on the phone.

Bought some fruit and dried nuts/fruit for breakfast and snacks today. Water bladder has 1L (one litre of water weighs 2 pounds. It can hold 1.5 but putting in 1 for now and fill up on the way.

So far my Timp 4s are working out perfectly. I bought two sets of more cushiony insoles and swap them out.

Spent 15 min looking for my second pair of socks and they were hanging on a hanger to dry, duh… (they are icebreaker wool socks and not dry yet) so I know it’s just nerves.

Having an apple as I walk to the cafe to get a coffee to go and « on y va ». Starting the day with this song. So appropriate. Loving hug to the Abenaki members of my family

 

[Kathor1]

Buen Camino, @Dani7. Are you going to walk from Cambo-les-Bain to SJPP?

 

[DOB]

Day 1- Bayonne to Cambo les Bains (approx 21.5 kms)

Slept fairly well. Stayed at the Hotel Côte Basque just across from the train station. 15 min walk to downtown and cathedral. Really liked Bayonne. So much life here and lots of young families. They had an outdoor fair and hearing all the children laughing and screaming on the rides lifted my spirits.

At the cathedral Marie-Anne gave me a printed copy of the Chemin de la Nive itinerary. Easier to read sometimes than on the phone.

Bought some fruit and dried nuts/fruit for breakfast and snacks today. Water bladder has 1L (one litre of water weighs 2 pounds. It can hold 1.5 but putting in 1 for now and fill up on the way.

So far my Timp 4s are working out perfectly. I bought two sets of more cushiony insoles and swap them out.

Spent 15 min looking for my second pair of socks and they were hanging on a hanger to dry, duh… (they are icebreaker wool socks and not dry yet) so I know it’s just nerves.

Having an apple as I walk to the cafe to get a coffee to go and « on y va ». Starting the day with this song. So appropriate. Loving hug to the Abenaki members of my family

Big hug from this Abenaki member…hope you are having a great day!

 

[Dani7]

Buen Camino, @Dani7. Are you going to walk from Cambo-les-Bain to SJPP?

Too far to do in one day though. Tomorrow Cambo Les Bains to Irissary.

 

[Dani7]

End of Day 1 - what a day!!! 23.3 kms (27.4 total with walking around Cambo Les Bains.

Moderator: Can you please rename my thread to: The adventures of Dani7 on the Camino Frances.

Left at 7:30 and the little coffee shop’s coffee machine was broken. To myself I said I can survive without it. I thought I knew where I was going but it dawned on me I was following the river Arbour and not the Nive. Thank goodness for gps on phone. Detour was not long, just a bit unnerving and I quickly started at the beginning of the “Voie de la Nive”. Met one pilgrim early on and we chatted 10 minutes. I’m short and he was very tall so our gaits were quite different.

But before I met him, I saw the first waymarker (picture below) and shed a few tears of joy. It had finally sunk in. I’m doing this!!!

The universe has sent me a crazy amount of lemons in the past 10 months (totally out of my control) and I kept making decent lemonade with them. But near early April the lemonade was running out of sugar. Today…it was as if I went to the store and bought the lemons …and it was the best lemonade yet. It donned on me about 2 hrs into my walk going towards Ustaritz, that I had left my money belt at the hotel in Bayonne. I had just been to the bank the day before to get 4-5 days worth of Camino money. and it was so so hot. Here comes the lemonade. I called the hotel, they said to call back in an hour and they would look for it. I called back and they had it. So….I sent a taxi to pick it up and bring it to me while I had lunch at this quaint little pub in Ustaritz.

I did not want the receipt so I don’t know how much a taxi ride of approx 14kms is because the cost was not as prohibitive as losing the money belt for sure.

In rural France people are quite pleasant. In the Basque rural areas their accent is called « Catalan”. It’s almost musical to hear them talk.

In another thread I will document the Voie de la Nive with more details and pictures. It can get quite tricky but with the use of the written instructions I got at the cathedral in Bayonne and my gps…I feel like I’m in a totally different pair of big girl pants now lol. Some really steep hills which is excellent training for the Pyrenees.

Rural France is so beautiful. This whole morning along the Nive was like a dream. The hills are something else and a close family member would have said “this sucks donkey balls” but the donkeys I saw were adorable.

With my new big girl pants I looked up a laundry facility and washed all my clothes. Washing by hand does not get all the stink out and while it was washing this big girl had a big glass of Kir just around the corner.





And so after all the adventures I had today, I’m feeling pretty badass so….

 

[CarmenZen]

After arriving safely in Paris I had a 4h40 min wait time for flight to Biarritz…and I had decided long ago this was where I was going to start walking. I was not ready for how green everything is, and palm trees .

Walked first to Decathlon in Anglet on the way to Bayonne and bought my poles and then added 2kms extra litterally walking in circles from all the roundabouts here .

Bought myself supper to eat my room and chocolates from the store you’ll see in the picture. I thought I would potentially lose weight on this walk but I’ve had bread with every meal and that chocolate was « morish » as they say in Australia.

I did not find the rock for the Cruz de Fero that I had set aside years ago, so I picked one up at the airport and thought it was fitting. I almost had to pinch myself a few times to fully process that I’m finally doing this.

Saw this sign and it felt like a « are you kidding me » Serendipitous moment. In English it means: «Nothing durable can be built without confidence”

Tomorrow I stay an extra day in Bayonne to get over my jet lag. Over 32 hours without sleep.

I leave you with the song of the day because this is how I feel about starting my pilgrimage.

View attachment 145080View attachment 145081View attachment 145082View attachment 145083View attachment 145084View attachment 145085View attachment 145086

Rock on Danielle! This is such a fitting tune for you. Thank you for inviting me on your journey.

 

[goldie from aus]

Enjoy, you are seriously making me rethink my training it to SJPP when I start my Camino in the fall. Love the tune

 

[Dani7]

Day 2 - Cambo Les Bains to Irissary (approx 23 kms)

Slept well but dreamt a lot. Will do some morning stretches starting this morning. Feeling good but a bit achy. No pain though.

I ruined my beloved scarf in the dryer. Because I did not think the wool in it would shrink it and it was a short dry but it is now the size of a scarf you would put on your teddy bear and….had to buy some zinc cream for what has been called by some seasoned pilgrims on this forum “monkey butt”. Very hot here now and it gets even hotter in the perineal and gluteal fold areas. So I am zinced up and it does not feel the best to have your butt areas greased up lol.

I’ll start the day with this song because it’s appropriate. Not many pilgrims yet.

 

[Dani7]

Day 2 - what a day!!! 20.9 kms mostly climbing. Total once at destination 25.3

If I could describe today in one word…arduous…in every sense of the definition of that word.

The experience was one I will never forget. Between the directions from the cathedral which at times are quite confusing from what they say and what you see, the waymarkers that can also be confusing and the gps that also can send you down wrong paths, I made it as far as Helette. Left at 7:30 and only stopped twice for one quick snack and bathroom break and a littéral nature break (left no trace behind). It took me 7h 45 min of continuous walking and incessant hills and hard climbs.

There is a saying on this forum and in general that the Camino provides, and today it sure did.

I met a couple and their 16 year old son having some charcuterie and cheese at a small local bar in Helette. Sitting right next to each other we started chatting and later they offered to drive me the 7 kms to Irissary to my hotel (it was on their way). When I saw the number and incline of the hills going there, my feet and body would never have made it. Putting ego aside that I would walk every step of this Camino…wisdom won!!

Apparently people who swear are supposedly quite smart as per a recent study done. Well today I was in the Mensa group . Between the « Putin de merde’s » and the « oh la vache », a few french (religious in origin) swear words and the « oh f*** me” my grey matter is just humming right now.

Having said that, visually and spiritually this day was memorable. The views, the beauty, the sounds and smells and the sweetest, kind people I met here and there made me feel quite humble that I am on this journey at last.

Rain in the forecast tomorrow and I’m mentally and physically prepared. My feet are sore but I’ll give them a good massage tonight. Great opportunity to test my raincoat (exactly like Altus different name).

With much gratitude in my heart, this song is so appropriate.

 

[Dani7]

Day 3 - Irissary to St-Jean Pied de Port (approx 20 kms)

Restless night. Probably because of the fact that I’ve decided to walk along the main road to St-Jean instead of the “scenic” off road route of the chemin de la Nive. The instructions from French sources are sketchy at best. @caminka had detailed instructions in her 2022 posting but with the rain going strong now, this last part is very poorly waymarked. Fields of grass, areas now that would be very muddy and one wrong turn would cause undue stress. With the rain and present conditions it would be more prudent to take the main road.

Instead I’ll be grateful for the last four beautiful sunny days I’ve had so far and adapt to what the Camino offers. It looks like tomorrow to Roncesvalles will be cloudy (for most of next week) and potential rain. I’m disappointed and sad. My motto when I turned 60 (I’ll be 67 in June) is “adapt and move on”. So that’s what I’ll do. But not this minute.

Hopefully I won’t forget anything. Two things happened in Cambo les Bains. 1) I nearly knocked myself out waking head first into the TV Wednesday night. The gap between the bed and wall where it was mounted was not that wide. Actually saw stars and left my left cheek bone swollen and a big indent in my forehead lol and yesterday morning I’m walking out of the hotel all hopeful and walk about 50m to realize I’d left my poles in my room and…don’t ask me how but I left a pair of underwear in Bayonne. . This morning I’m determined to get it right

With the whole walk in the rain, the melody of this song is not cheery which reflects how I feel right now. See you on the other side.

 

[goldie from aus]

Oh Dani, hopefully there's lot more sunny days ahead and the undies you left behind are the ones that cause the monkey butt. Wish I was out there (I'm due in oct) would love to cross paths, you sound like a hoot. Take care, enjoy and look up when your indoors. Bien Camino

 

[Kirkie]

Well..after two decades on my list and 6 years planning…the day has finally come. Travel day to all fellow pilgrims on this forum…thank you for all your help, knowledge and advice.

I’ll be documenting my pilgrimage through pictures and music.

Thanks. You have given me a focus for following someone on a camino. I doubt it will be a reality for me this year! You deserve every rose and every lemon...
I will keep an eye out for your posts, now I have found this thread.
You have waited a long time, pace it nicely.

 

[CarmenZen]

Day 3 - Irissary to St-Jean Pied de Port (approx 20 kms)

Restless night. Probably because of the fact that I’ve decided to walk along the main road to St-Jean instead of the “scenic” off road route of the chemin de la Nive. The instructions from French sources are sketchy at best. @caminka had detailed instructions in her 2022 posting but with the rain going strong now, this last part is very poorly waymarked. Fields of grass, areas now that would be very muddy and one wrong turn would cause undue stress. With the rain and present conditions it would be more prudent to take the main road.

Instead I’ll be grateful for the last four beautiful sunny days I’ve had so far and adapt to what the Camino offers. It looks like tomorrow to Roncesvalles will be cloudy (for most of next week) and potential rain. I’m disappointed and sad. My motto when I turned 60 (I’ll be 67 in June) is “adapt and move on”. So that’s what I’ll do. But not this minute.

Hopefully I won’t forget anything. Two things happened in Cambo les Bains. 1) I nearly knocked myself out waking head first into the TV Wednesday night. The gap between the bed and wall where it was mounted was not that wide. Actually saw stars and left my left cheek bone swollen and a big indent in my forehead lol and yesterday morning I’m walking out of the hotel all hopeful and walk about 50m to realize I’d left my poles in my room and…don’t ask me how but I left a pair of underwear in Bayonne. . This morning I’m determined to get it right

With the whole walk in the rain, the melody of this song is not cheery which reflects how I feel right now. See you on the other side.

Chère Danielle... tu ne cesses de m'éverveiller par ton authenticité, ta persévérance et ton sens d'humour! Je soupçonnes, qu'à ton retour, ta perspective de la vie ne sera pas la même. Cela en dit beaucoup étant donné que tu es une personne déjà éveillée et empathique. Et que dire de ton désir de toujours donner. Preuve à l'appui? Ces merveilleuses anecdotes que tu rédiges fidèlement en dépit de ta lassitude.

Ce n'est pas beaucoup mais sache que je t'accompagne en esprit. Pour aujourd'hui, je te laisse avec une pensée de Richard Wagamese car je t'entends dans ses mots:

Life is sometimes hard. There are challenges. There are difficulties. There is pain. As a younger person, I sought to avoid pain and difficulty and only caused myself more of the same. These days, I choose to face life head-on - and I have become a comet. I arc across the sky of my life and the hard times are the friction that shaves off the worn and tired bits. The more I travel head-on, the more I am shaped, and the things that no longer work or are unnecessary drop away. It's a good way to travel. I believe eventually I will wear away all resistance, until all that's left of me is light.

J'adore ta lumière! Grosses caresses.

Carmen

 

[J Willhaus]

We also had a case of forgetfuls on the Camino. For us it always seemed to involve phone chargers though. You can get more undies , poles, and chargers, but living each day to its fullest cannot be replaced or bottled for a future day. You go, Girl!

 

[Dani7]

Chère Danielle... tu ne cesses de m'éverveiller par ton authenticité, ta persévérance et ton sens d'humour! Je soupçonnes, qu'à ton retour, ta perspective de la vie ne sera pas la même. Cela en dit beaucoup étant donné que tu es une personne déjà éveillée et empathique. Et que dire de ton désir de toujours donner. Preuve à l'appui? Ces merveilleuses anecdotes que tu rédiges fidèlement en dépit de ta lassitude.

Ce n'est pas beaucoup mais sache que je t'accompagne en esprit. Pour aujourd'hui, je te laisse avec une pensée de Richard Wagamese car je t'entends dans ses mots:

Life is sometimes hard. There are challenges. There are difficulties. There is pain. As a younger person, I sought to avoid pain and difficulty and only caused myself more of the same. These days, I choose to face life head-on - and I have become a comet. I arc across the sky of my life and the hard times are the friction that shaves off the worn and tired bits. The more I travel head-on, the more I am shaped, and the things that no longer work or are unnecessary drop away. It's a good way to travel. I believe eventually I will wear away all resistance, until all that's left of me is light.

J'adore ta lumière! Grosses caresses.

Carmen

Oh Carmen. Que tu écris bien. Tes mots me font tellement chaud au cœur. It’s so appropriate that you send me this writing from Richard Wagamese. He put into words what I want out of the rest of this life I have. “To wear away all resistance” …and travel so light I’ll be able to fly

 

[Dani7]

We also had a case of forgetfuls on the Camino. For us it always seemed to involve phone chargers though. You can get more undies , poles, and chargers, but living each day to its fullest cannot be replaced or bottled for a future day. You go, Girl!

Thank you so much. Life can be as full as you make it. This trip is a dream come true for me. I’ve worked so hard in my life.

 

[Dani7]

Day 3 - arrived in St Jean - 16.5 kms (total 22.9)

Just got back in. Walked after dinner. If you want an amazing home cooked meal (I had both my lunch and dinner there) go to « Comme à la maison. ».

Believe it or not, I almost left my walking sticks where I stayed last night. I will get better . Walked 4h15 min today in moderate to HARD rain. It was so crazy and I felt so “mâcha” lol. I was recommended to take the road to Jaxu (D422) from the highway D22. Walking on any highway is not fun. This country road was beautiful. As usual for the last two days all dairy and animal agriculture as well as sheep farms. No infrastructure however.

I have a Ferrino raincoat but I still got very wet at the sleeves and chest area, and kept lifting it up to take pictures so fanny pack got soaked. I’ll lift my sleeves up and be more careful.

Sunny now. I like walking around the outskirts of places and this is where you can find some beautiful places to see and photograph.

My first night in an albergue. Newspaper in my shoes to dry them. My wet clothes of the day are in the dryer. And guess what. I’m wearing them again!! Smell test passed

So…despite the rain, the day finished on such a high that I hope I’ll be able to sleep. I won’t see the mountains tomorrow because the clouds are settling back in during the night. I’ve let go of that. Having everything the way you want only makes you want more.

I went to the 7pm mass. It was half in French and half in Basque. Such an interesting and different language. Before mass got started I asked if I could see the priest. I have brought with me, in a heart urn jewelry on a chain some of my mother’s ashes and realized during mass, that seven months ago today she passed away with her daughters by her side. What a gift it is to accompany someone you Iove on their last journey.

She always wanted to travel and would have loved Europe. So she is travelling with me on my pilgrimage. Every step of the way. That’s why you’ll always see at least one photo of flowers. She was a lover of all that flowered. It’s to honour our little Meemer.

After the service they bless the pilgrims. We were asked to go in front in a circle and we all said which country we were from. A very humbling and special moment. And so I leave you today with some different pictures of St Jean and this special song for little mom

 

[Dani7]

Day 4 - SJPDP to Roncesvalles approx 25.1 kms

What a sleep!!! … that my neighbour behind me had!!! Terrible night. Slept poorly. First night sleeping with others and my kit and it did not go smoothly. My body will adapt.

I’m so happy that I did the Voie de la Nive. Those three days of training totally prepared me for what lies ahead. So even though I have not had much sleep, mentally this song will be playing in my head today…why?! Because I’m going to do what Norman Vincent Peale preached…”act as if”. So I’m going act as if I’m a total badass today!!! This song which inspires and pumps me up every single time I listen to it. I believe

See you on the other side

 

[goldie from aus]

Another awesome song, go get those Pyrenees - happy days ahead.

 

[Kirkie]

A plug here for a visit to Zabaldika.
Even if you do not plan to try to stay there.
You will reach an option around 8km from Pamplona, after the bridge at Zuriain. Depending on the time you cross the bridge, you might see young fellas diving in to the natural pool below. It is a very popular picnic spot for families from S America, at the weekends. I swim there when I can, while in Pamplona.
At that point, you have two safe options:
- take the prepared path along the river, arriving at a rest area when you have gone under the tunnel. Or
- go five steps up the slight slope, and take the little path along which at one point there is a memorial to a deceased pilgrim - Japanese? I am sorry, I forget. At the end of that little path, either go left to join the river route, or look up to your right. There, you will see the church of San Esteban. That is where Zabalkdika albergue is. Be careful crossing the main road. If you decide to climb - believe me, it is sharp, but short - you do not need to retrace your steps. You will soon meet those who have gone on by the river route and who climb up to a point where your route will join theirs, and make your way to Trinidad de Arre. That is a point 5km from Pamplona.
While I am at this point on the route, let me say this: that bridge at Trinidad de Arre has the oldest albergue in continuous use. According to my understanding. As others before me have said, wisely - I could be wrong
A treasure of a place.
Even there, you have a choice. That depends on how accurately you stick to what is the one true camino. You could go back over the bridge and follow the path to the right, cross a road and walk in blessed shade along a prepared river route that brings you out at Burlada, which is where you would exit from Trinidad de Arre/ Villava on the one true route at Burlada, and from where you cross the road and make your way straight on up via the French Portal to the city.
If this makes any sense as you step it out, fine. Over to you, and mind your step.

 

[freespirit]

Well..after two decades on my list and 6 years planning…the day has finally come. Travel day to all fellow pilgrims on this forum…thank you for all your help, knowledge and advice.

I’ll be documenting my pilgrimage through pictures and music.

Buen Camino enjoy your trip of a lifetime, after completing your Camino you can join the rest of us Camino addicts, and want to go back again and again

 

[Dani7]

Day 4 - end of day…wow. Walked 32 kms. Had to take so many little steps and walked in zigzag down hills. (No wonder I’m pooched)

One word day. Gruelling!!!!!!! Between today and Friday I am now in the high percentile of the Mensa group. I found the climb to Orisson very hard but I did good time to get there (2 hrs) and then just a 30 min stop . But from there to Roncesvalles took 5h40 min. It had started to rain while having some soup. And it rained hard for approx 3hrs and the wind was so strong that it would push you to the side. The rain felt like little needles on my hands and they got so cold I could not feel them anymore. Then it rained hard again two hours from Roncesvalles and heavy fog.

On the positive side my Ferrino raincoat did a great job today. Nothing prepared me for the descent from Lepoeder. Very dangerous areas with lots of wet fall leaves and tons of mud. I slid a few times in the mud. Had to go really really slow. Baby steps. From Loepeder down that steep, rocky descent was brutal.

People have often said I’m brave but I met someone way more brave than I today. Elisabeth is 75 years old (also a Canadian) and she did this stage alone. Whenever I got discouraged I would think of her. I’m in awe.

400 people left St Jean today (same last couple of days). No matter the circumstances we will always find ourselves on the middle. There will always be people who have more and some less, people who enjoy better health and people facing life changing illnesses. Somehow no matter how you look at it, we are always in the middle. No matter your culture, language, or beliefs you have, sharing a goal creates an energy and it is as palpable starting yesterday. We all met in the middle.

It’s not often so many people come together for the same purpose or goal and we each have our own pilot guiding us. So for all the pilgrims who left this morning. This song is for us. PS (I’m spiritual and this song is not meant to preach or teach. Just so we are on the same page )

PS today was hard on all planes. Physical for sure, mentally and spiritually. Hopefully tonight I’ll sleep. Buen Camino

 

[DOB]

Bon dodo ma soeur!

 

[CarmenZen]

Danielle, grâce à tes descriptions de parcours, je suis capable de te suivre sur une carte tirée de l'Internet et visualiser des photos des régions où tu te retrouves. C'est absolument formidable! Je ne sais pas où tu puises l'énergie pour non seulement faire tes randonnées journalières mais rédiger dans ce blogue et sélectionner ta musique. Tu nous apportes virtuellement avec toi. J'ai toujours admiré ta force (et ce, à plusieurs niveaux), mais tu es réellement superwoman! Si ce bloque n'était pas public, je te l'exprimerais davantage en langage Mensa! J'espère que tu puisses connaître une profonde nuit de sommeil chère amie. xo

 

[David Tallan]

Danielle, grâce à tes descriptions de parcours, je suis capable de te suivre sur une carte tirée de l'Internet et visualiser des photos des régions où tu te retrouves. C'est absolument formidable! Je ne sais pas où tu puises l'énergie pour non seulement faire tes randonnées journalières mais rédiger dans ce blogue et sélectionner ta musique. Tu nous apportes virtuellement avec toi. J'ai toujours admiré ta force (et ce, à plusieurs niveaux), mais tu es réellement superwoman! Si ce bloque n'était pas public, je te l'exprimerais davantage en langage Mensa! J'espère que tu puisses connaître une profonde nuit de sommeil chère amie. xo

According to Google Translate:
Danielle, thanks to your route descriptions, I am able to follow you on a map taken from the Internet and view photos of the regions where you find yourself. It is absolutely terrific! I don't know where you get the energy to not only do your daily hikes but write in this blog and select your music. You bring us virtually with you. I've always admired your strength (and on many levels), but you really are superwoman! If this block was not public, I would express it to you more in Mensa language! I hope you can have a deep night's sleep dear friend. xo

 

[ficklegardener]

I stayed at the Municipal Albergue in Roncesvalles last night. I have been reading your posts...not sure if we'll ever connect, but would love to say "Buen Camino" in person! I'm fairly easy to recognize...short woman with a white baseball hat. You were right about yesterday...it was a tough day for most pilgrims.

 

[Dani7]

Day 5 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri 21.9 kms

Sleep at last, sleep at last, sleep at last. I had a great night sleep and my body so needed it. Roncesvalles was full and we were like zoo animals. Checking in system was slow but effective and the hospitaleros work so hard for us pilgrims. I am in awe of their service.

I’m in Burgette and had my first cafe con leche and a muffin. The only thing not working well at all since I started a week ago is my colon. It is being very non compliant .

I’ve noticed one thing though. We may all be pilgrims going in the same direction but we also bring our personalities with us. Yesterday I said buen Camino to a cyclist about my age and he said “No” and this morning a bedmate was in a foul mood so I took her lead.

Feeling sore today. Left side. Knee mostly and developing some hot spots that were taken care of this morning. So on to Zubiri we go and see what the day brings. My spirit is better. Last night I was not in a good place at dinner time.

I leave you with this song. Spain….I’m coming.

 

[dougfitz]

@Dani7, the continued reference to Mensa intrigued me, although in fairness, it appears you have only made the claim twice and others keep the meme going. I did find a study that was widely reported at the time that you might have referred to earlier in the thread at post #27. Given the amount of reporting that it generated, and the absence of any similar reporting of other academic work, I assume it is the one you think justifies your entry into Mensa based on the amount swearing, in thought and speech, you might be engaging in.

I hate to rain on your parade, but if all you have done is read the wonderful headlines the paper generated, even in reasonable sources of more public reporting on academic work, you have fallen victim to the puff and nonsense of sensationalist reporting. The paper itself makes no claims that swearing more indicates greater intelligence. The sensational reporting has been debunked. Here is one rebuttal that I particularly liked:

What the researchers ultimately figured out was that people who had better overall verbal fluency were also able to recall and recite a larger variety of different swear words. Or to put it more simply, people who know more words, also know more swear words. To which I would add, "duh!", since it is absolutely rational to assume the more one learns language overall, the more they will also learn swear words, and thus be more able to rattle off a list of them regardless of how often they, themselves, use them. (https://skeptoid.com/blog/2016/06/07/are-people-who-swear-more-intelligent/)

Of course, I have no idea whether you might qualify as a Mensan, but swearing a lot won't do that for you. I hope that disappointing news doesn't stop you continuing to share the story of your camino.

 

[Kathor1]

Day 4 - end of day…wow. Walked 32 kms. Had to take so many little steps and walked in zigzag down hills. (No wonder I’m pooched)
View attachment 145510
View attachment 145511

Hi @Dani7, you have already moved on but I am coming back to these two photos. It looks like you took the trail through the forest from Lepoeder to Roncesvalles and your reward was seeing the flowers that I saw when I. too, walked during spring. The first photo shows the beautiful carpets of bluebells and the second photo shows the purple toothwort, also known as clandestine in France. I was intrigued by it. Never seen this plant before or after.

 

[vaiciusc]

@Dani7 Hope you took the Zalbaldakia detour! Living vicariously through your camino! Thanks for sharing - look forward to posts every day.

 

[Dani7]

Hi @Dani7, you have already moved on but I am coming back to these two photos. It looks like you took the trail through the forest from Lepoeder to Roncesvalles and your reward was seeing the flowers that I saw when I. too, walked during spring. The first photo shows the beautiful carpets of bluebells and the second photo shows the purple toothwort, also known as clandestine in France. I was intrigued by it. Never seen this plant before or after.

That second one looked like some kind of crocus. Mom loved crocuses.

And that stretch with the mud yesterday was brutal.

 

[Dani7]

@Dani7, the continued reference to Mensa intrigued me, although in fairness, it appears you have only made the claim twice and others keep the meme going. I did find a study that was widely reported at the time that you might have referred to earlier in the thread at post #27. Given the amount of reporting that it generated, and the absence of any similar reporting of other academic work, I assume it is the one you think justifies your entry into Mensa based on the amount swearing, in thought and speech, you might be engaging in.

I hate to rain on your parade, but if all you have done is read the wonderful headlines the paper generated, even in reasonable sources of more public reporting on academic work, you have fallen victim to the puff and nonsense of sensationalist reporting. The paper itself makes no claims that swearing more indicates greater intelligence. The sensational reporting has been debunked. Here is one rebuttal that I particularly liked:

Of course, I have no idea whether you might qualify as a Mensan, but swearing a lot won't do that for you. I hope that disappointing news doesn't stop you continuing to share the story of your camino.

Oh Doug. I am only kidding of course. I am nowhere near being included in that group. I’m just trying to add humour.

 

[Dani7]

@Dani7 Hope you took the Zalbaldakia detour! Living vicariously through your camino! Thanks for sharing - look forward to posts every day.

I’m going to research that later tonight. Thanks for coming along

 

[Dani7]

End of day 5 -total kms to albergue 23.4. Total kms 26.2

Conditions were very muddy today. It rained hard Sunday and Monday in the Basque and Navarre regions. My shoes were so full of mud from last two days that you would not have been able to guess their original color.

Had a fantastic home cooked meal at our albergue with great company. My cheeks are red tonight. the descent into Zubiri is not easy with dry ground let alone with wet and muddy conditions but if you take your time you’ll end your day safely

Last night and this morning I was a little sad. I did not get a chance to go to the pilgrim mass. Arrived too late and checking in took longer due to the sheer volume of arrivals. I was not even able to go inside. It was locked. It was something I so wanted to witness and be a part of. Expectations can leave you disappointed and sad. But today the Camino provided. I saw the most beautiful little church in Espinal and that feeling went away. I know in time I will more fully live with the present, and the present is all that matters. Our modern age does not give us much time to experience life in that space.

My Mom had awful osteoarthritis as do I but nowhere near what she had at same age. She used to call it Arthur Ozzy. Well Arthur was yelling at me by the end of the day. Mud everywhere. But what a difference with a wonderful hot shower and a fabulous meal with interesting and funny dinner conversations. Feeling sore all over but so blessed right now to be here. I’m humbled by it all. And yes. There was more swearing. lol

Tomorrow Pamplona. I’m someone who is very organized. I call it functional OCD. this Camino brings you so many unexpected things and I’ve only been walking 5 days. Oh, and I did leave my poles again by my bed at Roncesvalles. Sheesh!! I realized as I was putting my shoes on.

Tonight I leave you with this song that reflects where I am, right at this moment.

PS. You can click on the song and then view the pictures at the same time (I just figured that out.)

 

[dougfitz]

Oh Doug. I am only kidding of course. I am nowhere near being included in that group. I'm just trying to add humor.

I didn't think you were serious, I was more interested in sharing the contrast between being told in my youth that swearing was a sign of a limited vocabulary and the idea in the research you prompted me to find that knowing a lot of swear words is correlated to a high level of verbal fluency, or was it the other way around!

 

[goldie from aus]

Dani, the days seem to be flying by. Enjoying following your way, trying to do that sparingly. As I'm sure you know when your planning your Camino you get to a point where you want to stop looking into and just wait till it arrives. At least that's the point I've come too., saying that it's hard not to peak in. As I said initially the days seem to be passing quickly, stop and smell thous wonderful flowers and enjoy. Much like you, when I walk I'll be looking for birds, for similar reason as your blooms, hopefully there's many. Bein Camino

 

[Dani7]

Day 6 - Zuniri to Pamplona 20.9 kms

Slept ok. Lost something else my case with my Mack’s wax earplugs. They are awesome. Highly recommend as they mold the outer ear perfectly.

Stayed at albergue Suseia. Can’t sing enough praises for our host Sara. Such a sweet, tender and caring person. I believe there are angels on this earth…and she is one of them. A feast that was so very tasty and well put together. She put in a lot of effort and heart.

Cloudy with fog now. Rained last night and some rain this morning forecasted for early part of the walk. So…this seemed an appropriate mood booster see you on the other side

 

[Dani7]

Day 6 - to albergue 19kms. Total 20.8 kms

What a day!!! Guess what I forgot leaving the albergue? Yep!!! My poles I guess at some point “the I’ll do better” will kick in.

It seems early in the journey to have had such a spiritual and also very emotional day, but that’s what happened.

Still muddy and dangerous conditions up to Zakbaldika. Had a slip and fall trying to let other pilgrims pass me. In major mud. Filthy. Yet, nearby a stream to wash all the mud off my hands and sticks. I was walking with two French men. One in his 40’s and the other born in 1943 . He walked that whole first stage from St Jean. I’m amazed! The older gentleman said he was doing it for his walking buddy and the latter said the same. That’s friendship. neither knew each other’s reason. We were laughing like crazy and the next moment I started to cry as memories of my mom came up strong, out of the blue. She made us laugh so hard, right to the end. They stood beside me as I wept.

Next came my detour to the church of San Sebastian. I cannot thank @Kirkie enough for her suggestion and precise directions. I was full of mud and all sister Maria wanted me to do was brush my shoes off. I was emotional from the start. Walked up to the bell tower and had a strong moment of mourning as with every step my tears flowed. By the time I had climbed the 56 steps, I was a mess. Thought I had put myself back together, but when I came down sister Maria of the Sacred Hearts order told me: “Oh I’m sorry, we usually want people now to ask permission to go up.” And I lost it again. She profusely apologized and thought I was crying from doing something wrong. That’s when I was able to blurt out it was all about my little Mom. She hugged me for a long time and suggested I should sit on a pew bench for awhile. And these are the pictures I took. She told me: leave a note for your mother and she will always be here. And that’s what I did. Oh @Kirkie Thank you so so much.

It took me awhile back on the path to calm down but I felt better. I guess today was meant to happen.

Tonight walked around the Plaza Central in Pamplona and a few pilgrims I had met here and there on the Way called me other. Had a few drinks and dinner. It was so lovely to connect with people from all over the world.

I continue to be humbled by this journey. Tomorrow is a rest day in Pamplona. Want to spend some time exploring and breathing in all that this Camino so far is providing. So I leave you with this. One of the most powerful songs of our times

 

[J9L]

Quelle chanson parfaite pour ta journée difficile.Ta maman voyage avec toi Tu es entourée de beauté incroyable!

Translation: What a perfect song for your difficult day. Your mom travels with you You are surrounded by amazing beauty.

Note from the mods: Please remember that English is the language of the forum. You can write personal messages using the PM function in whatever language you choose!

 

[CarmenZen]

Quelle chanson parfaite pour ta journée difficile.Ta maman voyage avec toi Tu es entourée de beauté incroyable!

Translation: What a perfect song for your difficult day. Your mom travels with you You are surrounded by amazing beauty.

Note from the mods: Please remember that English is the language of the forum. You can write personal messages using the PM function in whatever language you choose!

This song was the perfect choice to reflect the emotions and revelations of your days. It is clear that your mom travels with you Danielle. You are surrounded by beauty!

 

[Dani7]

Rest day - Pamplona

Stayed last night at the Albergue Plaza Cathedral. Clean, well appointed kitchen to use. 45 beds. I just don’t know what the morning etiquette is? Is there a time you can turn your bed light on and get ready?

I thought that by 6am it was ok to start rustling and packing. But this morning it was 6:45 and only a few got out to stay downstairs. No one was moving. so I waited downstairs also and had a tea. I’m still hesitant about what’s ok and not ok with albergue life as people seem to be sleeping past 6.

Rented an aparthotel for the night with a kitchen and went to the market to get some things for supper. And I’m going to make myself a kick ass sandwich in the morning for my lunch.

Went to mass at the cathedral this morning at 9:30. They opened up the central altar. Six priests came out singing and with the acoustics it was something to hear. Walked around half the day with my pack before checking in.

Felt lost and a little lonely today. I’ll be walking with new people which is not a bad thing, but no familiarity. Did not feel like a tourist but instead like a displaced pilgrim today.

Mailed my sleeping bag and my little pillow that wasn’t working out to Casa Ivar. Bought an inflatable one at decathlon and a twin bed size little fleece (thin) blanket. If I’m cold I’ll wear layers.

Oh…two fun observations. 1) did not see one squirrel yet. Apparently they are a rarity and 2) some pidgeons when they are cooing sound exactly like someone having a big “O” lol.

Big day tomorrow. Feeling a change. Still a newbie…but not the same.

 

[J Willhaus]

Quiet hours are usually 10 pm to 6 am. Some people will get up earlier and others will try to stay in bed until just before the albergue closes at 8 am for cleaning.

I am an early person by nature and like to be on my way by 6:30 or 7 am. My husband wants to lounge around and leave closer to 8. You'll find what works for you.

 

[Dani7]

Day 7 - Pamplona to Puenta la Reina approx 23.8 kms

Slept decent. Colon still not playing ball with me as much as I’d like, it’s more like dodge the ball . I don’t even know if I’ll be able to wrap my mouth around my sandwich it’s so packed lol.

High of 25 but cloudy skies until later this afternoon. Was supposed to be the same in Pamplona yesterday but it was sunny. Walked 10 kms and part of that in new “after walking day sandals” (bad idea) and my Arthur Ozzie in my feet is way too chatty.

Alto de Perdón…here I come. Need a pick me up this morning. So here goes…see you on the other side and if you feel like dancing with me…let’s go!!!!

 

[goldie from aus]

Awesome song again girl, is that a dedication to your colon

 

[Dani7]

End of day 7 - to Albergue 23.4, total 27.8

Sunny and hot most of the day. 25C now and it’s 19:20. My ankles and feet are sore from all the rocks going up and then down Alto de Perdon. Lots of pilgrims today including a group of Italian teenagers with their chaperones. Their group picture there showed their excitement. It was so palpable.

I’m very much still in the physical aspects of the first few days of the Camino. The only thing not sore are my eyelids and my navel oh and my earlobes.

I so wanted to see the church of Santa Maria at Eunate. My head and heart were really looking forward to it. But my body said. “I’m the one taking you there and I’m overriding your votes.” As it is I left at 8am and got to my Albergue at 16:00. I was fried, toasted and roasted.

That first picture is out of Pamplona. I hope that that foot that is forever immortalized in cement is from a pilgrim. The picture of the rock formation just seemed to defy gravity but a Spanish couple was eagerly pointing behind me. I would have missed that wonderful view. I often look behind me but not that time…and when I walked through that sculpture at Obanos…I giggled like a little girl.

My mom would have been so happy to see wild poppy flowers growing beside the road. And for my lunch today I ate half my sandwich on a picnic bench just before entering Zaraquiegui amd the other at Muruzabal where the church was closed (or was it Uterga). Anyway. See my pack. I was sitting right beside it. All quiet and resting. No one around me. And when I turned around to put my pack back on I realized Mother Mary was right above me.

Today is my third disappointment and sense of loss. The first when I had to be driven to Irissary, the second at Roncesvalles when I missed the pilgrim mass and church was locked and today with Eunate. So..I’m learning. I won’t be able to see and do it all. And that’s not the point. The point is to be grateful for all that the day offered. And to learn to…

 

[Rick M]

I won’t be able to see and do it all. And that’s not the point. The point is to be grateful for all that the day offered.

@Dani7 , you have made the transformation to being a Pilgrim, and glimpsed the true essence of the Camino. Keep going, there is much more to come. Buen Camino to you.

 

[CarmenZen]

End of day 7 - to Albergue 23.4, total 27.8

Sunny and hot most of the day. 25C now and it’s 19:20. My ankles and feet are sore from all the rocks going up and then down Alto de Perdon. Lots of pilgrims today including a group of Italian teenagers with their chaperones. Their group picture there showed their excitement. It was so palpable.

I’m very much still in the physical aspects of the first few days of the Camino. The only thing not sore are my eyelids and my navel oh and my earlobes.

I so wanted to see the church of Santa Maria at Eunate. My head and heart were really looking forward to it. But my body said. “I’m the one taking you there and I’m overriding your votes.” As it is I left at 8am and got to my Albergue at 16:00. I was fried, toasted and roasted.

That first picture is out of Pamplona. I hope that that foot that is forever immortalized in cement is from a pilgrim. The picture of the rock formation just seemed to defy gravity but a Spanish couple was eagerly pointing behind me. I would have missed that wonderful view. I often look behind me but not that time…and when I walked through that sculpture at Obanos…I giggled like a little girl.

My mom would have been so happy to see wild poppy flowers growing beside the road. And for my lunch today I ate half my sandwich on a picnic bench just before entering Zaraquiegui amd the other at Muruzabal where the church was closed (or was it Uterga). Anyway. See my pack. I was sitting right beside it. All quiet and resting. No one around me. And when I turned around to put my pack back on I realized Mother Mary was right above me.

Today is my third disappointment and sense of loss. The first when I had to be driven to Irissary, the second at Roncesvalles when I missed the pilgrim mass and church was locked and today with Eunate. So..I’m learning. I won’t be able to see and do it all. And that’s not the point. The point is to be grateful for all that the day offered. And to learn to…

View attachment 145732View attachment 145733View attachment 145734View attachment 145735View attachment 145736View attachment 145737View attachment 145738View attachment 145739
View attachment 145742View attachment 145743

Danielle, that photo of the lone poppies amid the yellow flowers... that's you coming into your own! Keep blooming dear friend.

 

[Anamiri]

End of day 7 - to Albergue 23.4, total 27.8

Sunny and hot most of the day. 25C now and it’s 19:20. My ankles and feet are sore from all the rocks going up and then down Alto de Perdon. Lots of pilgrims today including a group of Italian teenagers with their chaperones. Their group picture there showed their excitement. It was so palpable.

I’m very much still in the physical aspects of the first few days of the Camino. The only thing not sore are my eyelids and my navel oh and my earlobes.

I so wanted to see the church of Santa Maria at Eunate. My head and heart were really looking forward to it. But my body said. “I’m the one taking you there and I’m overriding your votes.” As it is I left at 8am and got to my Albergue at 16:00. I was fried, toasted and roasted.

That first picture is out of Pamplona. I hope that that foot that is forever immortalized in cement is from a pilgrim. The picture of the rock formation just seemed to defy gravity but a Spanish couple was eagerly pointing behind me. I would have missed that wonderful view. I often look behind me but not that time…and when I walked through that sculpture at Obanos…I giggled like a little girl.

Those poppies - makes me homesick for a spring Camino again

 

[Dani7]

Day 8 - Puente la Reina to Estella approx 21.5 kms
Stayed at albergue Jakue. Wow. The Ritz of albergues. It’s also a hotel.

Slept good but I’m going through some anxiety right now. Booking ahead of time at this point is a must and I did not do that. Thought that by this stage I could do just the day before or even day of. Everything on Expedia and booking.com for Los Arcos and just before or after is booked. I’ll have to check gronze. So after today tomorrow could be a 30kms day to Torres del Rio and I’m not sure I can do that. I’m going to try and call the municipal in Logrono but everything in Logrono also shows booked. Also May 1st is a a national holiday and that is also making things trickier

The Camino is very very busy. So I’m starting the day a little stressed. But I’ll keep the faith that the Camino provides . So to change my mood dance with me and maybe I’ll get lucky

 

[Kirkie]

Day 8 - Puente la Reina to Estella approx 21.5 kms
Stayed at albergue Jakue. Wow. The Ritz of albergues. It’s also a hotel.

Slept good but I’m going through some anxiety right now. Booking ahead of time at this point is a must and I did not do that. Thought that by this stage I could do just the day before or even day of. Everything on Expedia and booking.com for Los Arcos and just before or after is booked. I’ll have to check gronze. So after today tomorrow could be a 30kms day to Torres del Rio and I’m not sure I can do that. I’m going to try and call the municipal in Logrono but everything in Logrono also shows booked. Also May 1st is a a national holiday and that is also making things trickier

The Camino is very very busy. So I’m starting the day a little stressed. But I’ll keep the faith that the Camino provides . So to change my mood dance with me and maybe I’ll get lucky

Look, breathe in and out. And walk a bit. And imagine if you get somewhere and there is a bed - wow! take it.
Your pack is now too heavy, methinks.
Let go the worries.
Easy for me, you say.
Yes, but also: have you lost an eye? Or a finger?
No. Try to be where you are.
Advice? I hope it does not come across like that, just trying to deflate the anxiety!
You really are not on the moon, or in a desert.
And after you read this, just shrug and stay going!
See how many are willing you on to another happy day.

 

[J Willhaus]

Dani,
Several places don't take reservations. Check Gronze.com and aim for those places. Issac Santiago has 70 beds in Los Arcos and does not take reservations. Logrono is a bigger city and you might want a hotel room there if you plan to enjoy the city. The Parroquial in Logrono does not take reservations either.

 

[Bergeron]

Sending good vibes Danielle...trust that the universe as your back ️

 

[Dani7]

End of day - total kms to Albergue 25kms, total kms 29.3

Very hot today. But a steady walk. I’m slower than most. I prefer to walk without distraction so I let people pass. My goodness but some people are fit. Even older than I.

I was asking myself “so what are your impressions so far?” And they were not positive. And then the epiphany came. I never really had expectations about the Camino because I had no idea how I would react to all that was around me. But in an “aha” moment today, I realized that I did have expectations about myself. And that in turn made me compare myself to how much slower and disorganized I was compared to others getting ready in the morning for starters. I keep losing things and then a few days later I find them. In places in my pack they should never have been, in the first place. So I have two sunscreens now and two zinc tubes. I looked for 15 minutes for one sock and two kilometres outside of Puenta de la Reina the gentleman who slept under me at the albergue saw me and gave it to me with a big smile.

I live in a very organized world and have what I jokingly call functional OCD. And on this Camino I am judging myself. So that ends now. And how I got there was by pure chance.

All the beautiful, elaborate and guilded churches I’ve seen so far are mind boggling, even in the smallest villages. But just outside of Villatuerta, on my left this church that looked abandoned talked to me. I thought, it will be closed. But it pulled me in so I walked there anyway. And to my utter surprise it was open and it gave me a simple message, as simple as that church is. I’m letting go of all the stages, and guidelines and anxiety…and all of it. I’m letting go to free myself…from myself. So I left a note in front of the cross….and I cried.

Besides … the vultures were circling earlier today and in the end we are all…

View attachment IMG_6618.MOV

 

[J Willhaus]

@Dani7 if I recall correctly, I think that church is one of the oldest known structures that is a part of the Camino Frances.

 

[Dani7]

I would like to thank all the wonderful Camino members who have supported me on this blog and since the beginning on this forum. I’m here because of your help and guidance and I’m forever grateful to you

 

[Dani7]

It looks

@Dani7 if I recall correctly, I think that church is one of the oldest known structures that is a part of the Camino Frances.

it looks very very old. At least 1000 years my guess

 

[J Willhaus]

There is a movie (if you haven't seen it) called 6 Ways to Santiago. One of the pilgrims in the documentary discusses how she is being passed by everyone. Over the course of time, she has an injury and has to stop and rest a few days. In the end she discusses how she used to carry everything "just in case an asteroid crashes into the earth." and now she realizes how little she really needs. It is a great movie and when you get home, you should try to watch it as it has all the great Camino scenery. I think you may relate to some of the pilgrims' conclusions.

 

[J Willhaus]

It looks

it looks very very old. At least 1000 years my guess

I think is it Xth century and it is the Ermita de San Miguel Archangel (or so my Brierly guidebook said) so built around the time the Camino was really getting started...

 

[Michelleetpierr]

Day 8 - Puente la Reina to Estella approx 21.5 kms
Stayed at albergue Jakue. Wow. The Ritz of albergues. It’s also a hotel.

Slept good but I’m going through some anxiety right now. Booking ahead of time at this point is a must and I did not do that. Thought that by this stage I could do just the day before or even day of. Everything on Expedia and booking.com for Los Arcos and just before or after is booked. I’ll have to check gronze. So after today tomorrow could be a 30kms day to Torres del Rio and I’m not sure I can do that. I’m going to try and call the municipal in Logrono but everything in Logrono also shows booked. Also May 1st is a a national holiday and that is also making things trickier

The Camino is very very busy. So I’m starting the day a little stressed. But I’ll keep the faith that the Camino provides . So to change my mood dance with me and maybe I’ll get lucky

Tu seras ok matante! All will work itself out

 

[Former member 21738]

End of day - total kms to Albergue 25kms, total kms 29.3

Very hot today. But a steady walk. I’m slower than most. I prefer to walk without distraction so I let people pass. My goodness but some people are fit. Even older than I.

I was asking myself “so what are your impressions so far?” And they were not positive. And then the epiphany came. I never really had expectations about the Camino because I had no idea how I would react to all that was around me. But in an “aha” moment today, I realized that I did have expectations about myself. And that in turn made me compare myself to how much slower and disorganized I was compared to others getting ready in the morning for starters. I keep losing things and then a few days later I find them. In places in my pack they should never have been, in the first place. So I have two sunscreens now and two zinc tubes. I looked for 15 minutes for one sock and two kilometres outside of Puenta de la Reina the gentleman who slept under me at the albergue saw me and gave it to me with a big smile.

I live in a very organized world and have what I jokingly call functional OCD. And on this Camino I am judging myself. So that ends now. And how I got there was by pure chance.

All the beautiful, elaborate and guilded churches I’ve seen so far are mind boggling, even in the smallest villages. But just outside of Villatuerta, on my left this church that looked abandoned talked to me. I thought, it will be closed. But it pulled me in so I walked there anyway. And to my utter surprise it was open and it gave me a simple message, as simple as that church is. I’m letting go of all the stages, and guidelines and anxiety…and all of it. I’m letting go to free myself…from myself. So I left a note in front of the cross….and I cried.

Besides … the vultures were circling earlier today and in the end we are all…

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I’m happy for you for letting go of yourself. I guess it’s just the way to be free and just go with no expectations. It’s really awesome Dani7!!!

 

[goldie from aus]

End of day - total kms to Albergue 25kms, total I keep losing things and then a few days later I find them. In places in my pack they should never have been, in the first place.

I don't know you (on anyone on the forum) but you last post brought a tear. I was brought up with religion and beliefs but am not what one might call devout. Thou, I have always felt the ones truly love and lost around me. At times when I've lost or misplaced things and come across them again, love ones come to mind, watching, protecting and yes sometimes it feels like there being playful and mischievous. Just I thought I wanted to share, I'm glad your travelling lighter and wish you all the Camino can offer. Bien Camino (Thou I go from joyous to scared _______ , can't wait for mine to begin later in the year)

 

[MARSKA]

Dani, I love your writing, pictures, and music. Thank you so much for sharing your Camino with us all.

 

[Dani7]

I don't know you (on anyone on the forum) but you last post brought a tear. I was brought up with religion and beliefs but am not what one might call devout. Thou, I have always felt the ones truly love and lost around me. At times when I've lost or misplaced things and come across them again, love ones come to mind, watching, protecting and yes sometimes it feels like there being playful and mischievous. Just I thought I wanted to share, I'm glad your travelling lighter and wish you all the Camino can offer. Bien Camino (Thou I go from joyous to scared _______ , can't wait for mine to begin later in the year)

Sending a big hug your way

 

[Dani7]

Day 9 - Estella to Larcos?? Or before or beyond approx 21.5 kms +

Not a good night. Sleep elusive. Still not used to albergue dorm life. I’ll get there. My goal today is to stay focused on being calm inside and let the waves go by me. To be kind and patient with myself. I’m usually pretty good at that when I put my mind to it but when I am sleep deprived the dialogue can change pretty quick.

Not as hot today. 22C max. let’s see what today brings .

So dance with me. Nothing like a little dance to perk you right up. Time to have a good time.

PS I almost put sunblock down there instead of zinc. That was so so close Phew!!!

 

[Monika58]

Sending a big hug your way

Good for you for hanging in there! I’m starting my Camino tomorrow from SJPP and I have a feeling it’s gonna be somewhat challenging for me as well, testing me every day, albergues being one that comes to mind. I am actually a bit concerned about getting into a place to stay every night, as I have only booked a couple of nights at the beginning? Do you have any advice on that?

 

[MichaelMySon]

Reading though your journey as made me to tears I have a waY to go before I start my way .am planning my camino for April may 2025. And like you I lost a love one that as affected me in ways other people may not understand . You are a brave and courageous lady .love your daily logs kept then coming .buen camino

 

[Dani7]

Good for you for hanging in there! I’m starting my Camino tomorrow from SJPP and I have a feeling it’s gonna be somewhat challenging for me as well, testing me every day, albergues being one that comes to mind. I am actually a bit concerned about getting into a place to stay every night, as I have only booked a couple of nights at the beginning? Do you have any advice on that?

Monika, the Camino Frances right now is very very busy. I’m in Torres del Rio tonight and there is nothing before or after Logrono, except for Navarrete and for me that would mean 33kms and I don’t think I can do that. So Im not sure what I am going to do. If this continues I would recommend you book ahead at least for the first 10 days.

 

[Former member 59618]

I too, find dorm life very challenging. I like to walk quietly by myself, and can easily become overwhelmed by all the “peopling” in the evenings.

I’m very near cruz de ferro and there’s been an influx of pilgrims since Astorga. There are days where I only have so many “buen Caminos” in me, then I just start grunting (which was today).

My intention here on out is to choose towns and albergues on the quiet side.

 

[CarmenZen]

I would like to thank all the wonderful Camino members who have supported me on this blog and since the beginning on this forum. I’m here because of your help and guidance and I’m forever grateful to you

Danielle, my daily entry from Mark Nepo's The Book of Awakening seemed destined to be share with you today:
Embedded in the seed is the blossom. Embedded in the womb is the child fully grown. Embedded in the impulse to care is the peace of love realized. Embedded in the edge of risk and fear is the authenticity that makes life worth living.

Wrapped within young leaves is the sound of water that will nourish them once they have opened. It's already there prompting them to unfold and grow. To believe that this is possible requires a faith in currents larger than any one mind can envision. But that is not such a difficult thing to accept, for as dust owes path to win, we, as human beings, are asked to acknowledge that something larger encircles us and prompts us to unfold.

There is gravity of spirit that pulls the essence of who we are into being. Our job, like all our sister creatures, is to find the abundance of air and water and light, an to unfold what is already within us.

Now, as you breathe, stand and outstretch your arms, and feel who you are unfold.

Carmen

 

[Dani7]

Danielle, my daily entry from Mark Nepo's The Book of Awakening seemed destined to be share with you today:
Embedded in the seed is the blossom. Embedded in the womb is the child fully grown. Embedded in the impulse to care is the peace of love realized. Embedded in the edge of risk and fear is the authenticity that makes life worth living.

Wrapped within young leaves is the sound of water that will nourish them once they have opened. It's already there prompting them to unfold and grow. To believe that this is possible requires a faith in currents larger than any one mind can envision. But that is not such a difficult thing to accept, for as dust owes path to win, we, as human beings, are asked to acknowledge that something larger encircles us and prompts us to unfold.

There is gravity of spirit that pulls the essence of who we are into being. Our job, like all our sister creatures, is to find the abundance of air and water and light, an to unfold what is already within us.

Now, as you breathe, stand and outstretch your arms, and feel who you are unfold.

Carmen

Aw Carmen. That is so beautiful. I’m starting to feel some of those things, a little every day.

 

[Dani7]

End of day - 27.4 kms to Albergue. 28.3 total.

Yabadabadoo!!! I made it to Torres del Rio. Because I was in Ayegui it shaved off at least 33kms if I had been elsewhere in Estella.

The wine ran out fast at Irache. There were too many people and it was not something I needed checked off a list. Just took a couple of pictures. Wine ran out early apparently.

There is as this very talented man who is a forger. Business has been going on for generations. He does some stunning large pieces and small Camino shells. I bought one for myself that has a heart on it. It’s beautiful.

I made a beautiful mistake today I’m going the green route and thinking it was the main one. It was gorgeous. A quiet Forest walk, beautiful vistas. Hardly any pilgrims. I ended up walking most of today by myself with no one else in view. Which I so appreciated. The Camino has been super busy since the start.

My feet hurt tonight. Arthur Ozzy is trying to be my best friend and I’m telling him to piss off.

Quiet day. Most of my energy post walk has been trying to figure out where I’ll stay tomorrow. So far it’s leave early and go to a municipal Albergue as they do not take reservations. This is a great opportunity for ne to have faith and let go…( as I cross my fingers and my toes ).

My body had been so good allowing me to do this journey. I’m forever grateful. And do this song is more than appropriate

 

[henrythedog]

Tell Arthur Ozzy to piss off from us as well. It sounds like it’s all going rather well, all things considered.

Buen camino once more.

 

[Dani7]

Day 10 - Torres del Rio to Logrono approx 20 kms

Had a good sleep. Yay for me!!! started out at 6:45 and am now in Viana having my morning cafe con leche. Some hills at an incline but just beautiful morning. So off we go to the municipal Albergue. I am confidant…and if I rely on my common sense and trust more my instincts and life experience, I’m all I need to get by see you later.

PS thank you to the forum members who guide me and reassure me. Knowing you are there keeps me safe in my heart and confidant in my head.

 

[Bergeron]

I would like to thank all the wonderful Camino members who have supported me on this blog and since the beginning on this forum. I’m here because of your help and guidance and I’m forever grateful to you

I cannot imagine embarking on this pilgrimage without others that have experienced the Camino journey...what a gift.

 

[Bergeron]

Day 10 - Torres del Rio to Logrono approx 20 kms

Had a good sleep. Yay for me!!! started out at 6:45 and am now in Viana having my morning cafe con leche. Some hills at an incline but just beautiful morning. So off we go to the municipal Albergue. I am confidant…and if I rely on my common sense and trust more my instincts and life experience, I’m all I need to get by see you later.

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PS thank you to the forum members who guide me and reassure me. Knowing you are there keeps me safe in my heart and confidant in my head.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 10 - 18.5 kms to Albergue, 25.7 kms total

Logroño is a lovely city. It being Sunday, it was so lovely to observe friends and family gather at the local bars and restaurants. Children playing soccer, running and laughing. People engaged in lively chatter. Just enjoying each other’s company. Sons and daughters and grandchildren lovingly walking with their parent or grandparent, their arm out to support them as they walk slowly, listening and sharing. People with illnesses who require help and their families there to support them.

We are all the same. No matter where you go in this beautiful, glorious and often crazy world. We get together. Watch our children grow and play. Gather over food or coffee. Enjoying our Sundays.

Since I started walking on April 20th, these last 10 days have been a whirlwind of activity and learning on the fly. It has also been hectic in some ways. Arriving in late afternoon with little time before figuring out what’s for dinner, then bedtime.

So tomorrow instead of walking the 28.9 or so kms to Najera, I am walking to Ventosa and staying in a quaint and charming Albergue. And Tuesday, very short day to Najera with a private room and bathroom for the night. I feel the need to collect myself and breathe this experience more slowly. I am fortunate that I don’t have a planned return date.

The next two days I will have more time to plan my next stages and research more where I’d like to stay and what I would like to see and experience. I am in effect “acting as if” this could be my one and only Camino. Life is fragile. And we just don’t now from one day to the next what the universe has planned for us. My spirit is content tonight. It’s time to take my time .

 

[J Willhaus]

You may want to walk on to stay at Grañón at San Juan de Bautista the following day 6 km past Santo Domingo. The albergue is in the bell tower around back of the church.. They don't take reservations but never turn anyone away. There is a communal dinner, pilgrim mass, and a special meditation gathering before bed. Phil and I have been pilgrims there a few times and also served there as hospitaleros. You do sleep on mat's on the floor, but it is a special place on the Camino. Even if you don't stay there be sure to stop in at the panaderia in town and say hello to Suzanna whose family owns the bakery. She has a degree in English and they make really good cookies.

 

[Rick M]

I second Granon, you will probably love it. A note of encouragement regarding the issue you had with finding a bed. The worst is over now. Between the end of the holiday weekend, and the uncomfortable fact that a bunch of people will end their Camino in Logrono due to injury, I think you will have much less trouble until you get to sarria. The only town I found to be a problem the last few years is Hornillos. Figure out when you are going to be there, and book something a few days before. You are also going to want to book a place in Leon if you are going to be there on a weekend. You can always find something in Leon...at a price. Cheaper to plan ahead there unless you get in early enough for the municipal.

And yes.....we are all brothers. Culture may attempt to teach us otherwise, but travel shows us as plain as day that despite the differing wrapping paper, all people everywhere value the same things.

 

[VNwalking]

Late to the party but very glad to be here.
Dani, such a gorgeous string of posts. Brava, peregrina. Just wow.

It had finally sunk in. I’m doing this!!!

You sure are. And well, too!

seven months ago today she passed away with her daughters by her side. What a gift it is to accompany someone you Iove on their last journey.

plug here for a visit to Zabaldika.

Soooooo glad you made it there. Pure caritas. The best.

Arthur was yelling at me by the end of the day

Yell back. That sucks, to be honest. Ouch.

And on this Camino I am judging myself. So that ends now

Wow. You are amazing. Respect!

. I feel the need to collect myself and breathe this experience more slowly.

Good move! Breathe in. No hurry. Breathe out. No hurry. Mindfulness is your essential friend when there is no set routine and every day is different. I always put things in my pack in the same place - it really helps to have at least that as stability. But it's so easy to forget things, and why it helps to pause and slow down in the transition out the door. And to have a checking routine at the last minute for plugs and cords and poles.

Buen camino, peregrina!

 

[Dani7]

Day 11 - Logroño to Ventosa approx 20 kms
Slept like a baby!!! I feel refreshed and calm inside. Took my time this morning to get ready and i felt relaxed and not rushed.

Yesterday walking to the supermarket I came upon this unbelievable rose garden. My mom would have been in awe of it as was I. I see her everywhere. In each patch of flowers I come upon. In every little bird I see. She always had bird feeders outside and used to talk to them.

23C today but moving forward we are going to get some real hot weather. No worries for me. I’ll adapt. In the meantime, in keeping with taking my time, dance with me on this one. It’s a great pick me up song!! See you on the other side.

 

[Dani7]

End of day 11 - 19 kms to Ventosa 20.8 total.

Easy walk here. Beautiful day all around. Quiet. And it suited every part of me.

Ended up cooking a beautiful spaghetti dinner for myself and my friend, Patricia, from France because I’ve had a hankering for spaghetti since I got here. All the goodies were here in the little mini market and we had a feast together really big plate of spaghetti and we ate it all.

Tomorrow an extremely short day because I’ve decided to take a private room in Najera. Spent a few hours today planning and will tell you about it tomorrow.

For now it seems I’m the only one still up. So I’ll keep it short. Today my mom was ever present. And I took a picture of the most perfect pink rose (her favorite) with dew on it. Every rose and flower and little chickadee reminded me of her. So this is the song I chose in her honour. She was wise with her wild child and always supported my dreams. This is for her.

 

[Dani7]

Day 12 - short 11kms walk to Najera to regroup

Slept fitfully. Was cold in the room. The one time I would have appreciated my sleeping bag so I slept with my puff jacket. But had no socks or long pants on so .

I’m glad I’ll have the time today to plan ahead. Pilgrims are all talking about how busy it is. It’s more than the long weekend.

I thought all this time I was using my esim but no…yikes I was using my Canadian provider and they charge $15 a day . So I managed to spend 90 min with them on a chat to credit me that amount and they did. Yay for my tenacity and their willingness to credit me.

So no physical sim in my phone now. I had to take it out. That was the deal. Hopefully I’ll figure out what’s wrong with my esim install. The lady in the chat box this morning from that provider asked me if I had the app installed on my phone … I answered. That’s how I’m talking to you…on your app so I’m a little discombobulated this morning. So…need a good shake it off song.