LIVE from the Camino Starting the Invierno today - March 12, 2024

[Simperegrina]

After doing the Camino Portugués Central (loved it), then Sarria to SdC (hmmm), I’ve very excited to start the Invierno today as my final Camino of this trip before heading home.

Anything the Invierno lovers (and anyone else, of course) would like me to check out and report back on?

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Hello Simperegrina,
how lucky you are starting de Invierno today! I start walking the Invierno on April 20.
I am wondering along which route you are walking to Las Médulas. I understand there are severe works in the woods past Borrones, and on this forum a detour via La Chana was discussed.
Can you please report which route you took and if you had any trouble finding your way?
Buen camino!!

 

[sun is shining]

Hi @Simperegrina,

I’m starting the Invierno two weeks after you and would really appreciate any updates on walking conditions, weather that you encounter, etc.

Have a lovely time! The Camino de Invierno looks wonderful.

 

[Simperegrina]

Hello Simperegrina,
how lucky you are starting de Invierno today! I start walking the Invierno on April 20.
I am wondering along which route you are walking to Las Médulas. I understand there are severe works in the woods past Borrones, and on this forum a detour via La Chana was discussed.
Can you please report which route you took and if you had any trouble finding your way?
Buen camino!!

Thanks to the helpful discussion on this wonderful forum, I’m taking the detour. Will report.

 

[Simperegrina]

Hi @Simperegrina,

I’m starting the Invierno two weeks after you and would really appreciate any updates on walking conditions, weather that you encounter, etc.

Have a lovely time! The Camino de Invierno looks wonderful.

Doesn’t it just! And I start out from Ponferrada under blue sky and sun…happy happy

 

[peregrina2000]

Wishing you a wonderful Invierno, @Simperegrina, there’s a bunch of us here who will enjoy reading anything you care to write about!

I see that today is Tuesday, so if you are going to arrive in Las Médulas today, could you let us know whether there are things open? Different forum members have very strong opinions on whether things (restaurants, cafés, bars, etc) are open on Tuesday, and it would be helpful to hear it from someone on the ground. One thing I know for sure is that the Hotel Agoga (at the end of town, on the way out) is very comfortable and open today!

 

[Desert Bruce]

Hola Simperegrina, I am very interested to hear how your Invierno goes, I will start it Sunday 28 April.
It will be great to follow you along your Camino.
Buen Camino!

 

[pelerine]

Hi Simperigrina!
I will start three weeks after you and am looking foward to what you will tell us about your experience!
Buen camino!

 

[David with new Kit!]

Hi @Simperegrina

This year I'm doing the Primitivo but the Invierno is on my list too.

As per everyone else I will look forward to reading about your adventures.

Enjoy

 

[Glenshiro]

If you get the chance to visit Pension Pacita at Ponte, between Quiroga and Pobra de Brollon, please let us know if it's still open. Only open in the evenings last year, may have closed completely.

Hi Simperigrina!
I will start three weeks after you and am looking foward to what you will tell us about your experience!
Buen camino!

 

[pelerine]

Hi Glenshiro! I have a booking in the Pension Pacita in May…

 

[Simperegrina]

Wishing you a wonderful Invierno, @Simperegrina, there’s a bunch of us here who will enjoy reading anything you care to write about!

I see that today is Tuesday, so if you are going to arrive in Las Médulas today, could you let us know whether there are things open? Different forum members have very strong opinions on whether things (restaurants, cafés, bars, etc) are open on Tuesday, and it would be helpful to hear it from someone on the ground. One thing I know for sure is that the Hotel Agoga (at the end of town, on the way out) is very comfortable and open today!

I’ve made Villavieja my destination for day 1 - and no regrets

 

[Simperegrina]

If you get the chance to visit Pension Pacita at Ponte, between Quiroga and Pobra de Brollon, please let us know if it's still open. Only open in the evenings last year, may have closed completely.

It’s on my provisional list. I’m a bit torn as I kinda want to stop in all the newer municipal albergues that have been opened!

 

[Simperegrina]

Ok. So a terrific day 1 on the Invierno. The weather was AMAZING. I was late leaving Ponferrada as i faffed around too much there, including shopping for a new pair of sunglasses (much needed today) thanks to leaving my old ones at Casa Ivar’s yday

A little stop for a glass of limón at Casa de Botillo early on after crossing the Sil, and I was good to go.

The Bierzo peaks are all snow capped which makes for wonderful views. The trail climbs gently but steadily, then drops into Toral del Merayo. The little store there on the left before the bridge is handy for top ups of things (caveat: despite carrying a 24h sign, the woman locked up the store behind me and left for siestas time). I’ve read about a panadería in the town, but on asking, was told by the woman in the store that ‘this here’ is the panadería…hmmm…anyway, you can get bread etc from this store.

Then the path winds through fields and orchards, and villages. Bar Ruta along the highway in Villalibre de la Jurisdicción was a useful stop. As I was walking on the path past fields not long after this, a man working in the fields called out to me…”Camino?” And tried to tell me that there was no albergue in Villavieja and that I would have to find Casa rural. A bit odd.

Then Santalla, and then beyond that, sign saying ‘Albergue Municipal’ and a mojón pointing to the left. Up to the highway, cross over with care, and start the climb up to Villavieja. For incentive you gave that fantastic view of the Castillo de Cornatel. The climb isn’t bad, just get into your rhythm.

I arrived in the village, and an elderly villager called Maria was taking a constitutional. We had a chat. Well, there was a lot of chatter coming from Maria, who decided to accompany me to the albergue, and then INTO it so she could have a good look around

The albergue is fab. A bit of a show piece albergue for Castille y Leon in my opinion. Super comfortable, and with everything you need including plates, cups, cutlery and utensils. (Are you listening, Galicia??)

The trail markings are good. Well marked once you pick it up by the bridge in Ponferrada..

 

[BombayBill]

After doing the Camino Portugués Central (loved it), then Sarria to SdC (hmmm), I’ve very excited to start the Invierno today as my final Camino of this trip before heading home.

Anything the Invierno lovers (and anyone else, of course) would like me to check out and report back on?

Love to hear your thoughts on everything.

 

[Simperegrina]

Love to hear your thoughts on everything.

“Everything?”

Maybe not, @BombayBill

 

[Desert Bruce]

Is it still accurate that the is no food or drink available in Villavieja but what you bring yourself?

 

[Simperegrina]

Is it still accurate that the is no food or drink available in Villavieja but what you bring yourself?

Yes. Villavieja is a tiny village with no stores. I brought food from Ponferrada. As I mentioned in my post, there is a small supermarket in Toral del Merayo, and the apps show stores in Priaranza and Santallan (I wasn’t looking myself so didn’t see anything). Just be aware of siesta closing hours.

 

[SioCamino]

If you get the chance to visit Pension Pacita at Ponte, between Quiroga and Pobra de Brollon, please let us know if it's still open. Only open in the evenings last year, may have closed completely.

I stayed there last August and had a very nice stay there.

 

[Simperegrina]

Ok, so the official route between Borrenes and the turn off Camino to Carucedo, is absolutely fine. I decided to head to Borrenes this morning, and decide my route choice once there. I managed to find Marisol and she confirmed that there’s no problem with the path (now). So I walked it.

Pic

 

[Glenshiro]

Hi Glenshiro! I have a booking in the Pension Pacita in May…

I'd be interested to hear your experience. I stayed there last year in June and was the only guest, although I think there may be more people on the Invierno this year. Dinner was freshly-caught trout.

 

[Simperegrina]

I'd be interested to hear your experience. I stayed there last year in June and was the only guest, although I think there may be more people on the Invierno this year. Dinner was freshly-caught trout.

Ooh…

 

[Simperegrina]

Villavieja to Puente de Domingo Florez

The weather continues to be glorious.

Left the wonderful albergue around 0900 - I thought I might take a look around the Castillo de Cornatel, which a note on the albergue’s notice board said was open 1000 Weds to Sundays.

NB: this notice is out of date. Pic attached of the opening times as per the board outside the Castillo.

Took the path up through the chestnut trees.

YouTubers have mentioned a big scary dog coming running out as you leave the village for this path. Earlier in the morning I did hear a dog barking from somewhere below the albergue, but when I walked through to take up the path, everything was quiet and tranquillo.

The path leads up to the top of a slope with great views over the Castillo. There’s an electric fence at the top of the path, where you need to turn right and descend the slope to the Castillo and road. Just unclip to pass through.

The path then leads down to the junction where you turn right to go to Borrenes. I had decided to head there first, and then decide my route - the alternative scenic route, or to try the official route. In Borrenes, I went looking for Marisol or Saturno to ask advice re current state of the official route’s path towards Caucedo. Another Invierno walker called Jordi was on the same mission. Marisol confirmed that the path is ‘no problem’, so I decided to follow the official route, as did Jordi.

And indeed it was fine.

A word about the turn off to Caucedo. You’ll come to a signpost, with the sign for Las Medulas straight on (4.4km), and Caucedo showing a right hand turn and a distance given of 0.6km. Be aware that if you go looking for a cafe bar, it’s much further than 500m to find an open one. You have to walk a fair distance along the road going through the town to find an open bar, no matter what google maps says! If you do need the bar, afterwards there’s a path close by that will take you to rejoin the Camino route circa 1.4km on from where you left it.

The Camino path then climbs steadily up to the road to Las Medulas. And your first sighting of them! They were everything I thought they’d be - just spectacular.

In Las Medulas village everything was shut except one bar with restaurant with a menu del dia.

Continuing the path, I took the detour on the left up to the mirador that’s around 500m away. It’s worth it, but there’s no doubt that it’s not as spectacular as the view from the Mirador de Orellan. If you haven’t taken the alternative route which takes you to that mirador, you can continue on to it from this one. It’s another 3-4km though.

Instead I started the long descent towards Puente de Domingo Florez (PDF). At first you’re on the road (almost no vehicles came by), but then the Camino path comes away from the road, and you gave this glorious descent along a wide path, curving down between trees. I loved it!

Then finally you arrive in PDF.

I’m staying at Casa Rosa, which I can’t recommend highly enough.

 

[Simperegrina]

Puente de Domingo Florez to O Barco de Valdeorras

Ok, so I guess it was going to be difficult to match the first 2 days. Today was very different. Quite a lot of walking on roads and some along shoulders of highways, although the Invierno does take you off them as soon as it can (there’s me treating the Invierno as sentient)

Most of today’s stage involved walking high above the Sil, which in itself is lovely. Now don’t go looking at the profile and think it’s flat - although nothing like the lengthy climbs of the first two days, there are lots of ups and downs. The climb up from the hamlet of Entoma to get you off the road and to O Barco, with a path through the woods instead, does test your legs a bit. Tip: you know you’ve reached the end of the uphill when you come to a path branching off half right with a chain across it - it’s downhill from here O Barco except for a cheeky steep little affair to get up to the start of the town.

So some observations from today:

Noguieras is interesting - don’t rush by it without stopping

Pumares needs some TLC from the local govt. I enjoyed looking at the art around the village (murals and signs depicting Pumsres created by an English guy called Jonathan, who lives there now with his wife Begonia, whose home village it is. I met them and had a lovely chat for ages. The English couple who renovated a wreck of a house in the village weren’t at home this morning, otherwise it would have been quite the Ingles gathering!

In Sobradelo Bar Mar was closed today! So no meeting Manuel. I had a drink in Centro Social Pontenova instead.

The loud barking dog on a chain much written about in the past, in Quereno…? No sight nor sound of him.

Between Pumares and Sobradelo, the bucolic vibe is somewhat disturbed by the sounds of 2 shale operations on the other side of the Sil. The 2 are about 500m apart. Just put them behind you asap, and hope you don’t dream that night of the beeping sound made by trucks reversing.

Tomorrow I plan on staying in the new albergue in A Rua on its inaugural night. I shall report back.

Ultreia!

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Thanks for your detailed reports of the way you took ( esp. leaving Entoma) and of bars closed/open.

Bon camino!

 

[Simperegrina]

Thanks for your detailed reports of the way you took ( esp. leaving Entoma) and of bars closed/open.

Bon camino!

De nada. Btw Bar Manuel wasn’t open, but I’m sure that was just an aberration. A car with decals for Hotel Mar was parked outside.

 

[Desert Bruce]

Thanks so much for your entertaining reports on the Invierno. With the time difference Galicia - California I can read them first thing in the morning, if I can wait that long.

 

[peregrina2000]

it’s downhill from here O Barco except for a cheeky steep little affair to get up to the start of the town.

So much fun to follow you on the Invierno! I think the slog along the road into the center of Barco is kind of mind-numbing. And then after you go off the road, you have to go through that cement factory or whatever it is. And then you have endless outskirt residential development! But in spite of all that, I really like O Barco. It’s too early for the public beach along the river to be operating, but there is a really nice vibe in the town, I think. Where are you staying?

And just a suggestion about tomorrow. It’s a short day into A Rúa and the albergue there doesn’t open till 4 pm, though maybe it will open earlier on its inaugural day!

But @Charrito gave me an idea for an alternative route that would add a few detours and go past a pretty amazing pazo (estate) and up to a waterfall. Here’s the thread, just in case you are interested.

How’s the weather treating you, @Simperegrina? Buen camino!

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Thanks Peregrina, that is an interesting tread for a detour to the waterfall!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks Peregrina, that is an interesting tread for a detour to the waterfall!

I think you will be walking the Invierno about a week before me, so I hope you can report back if you try it. Should be very nice, and a good way to add something to a very short day. I do like A Rúa a lot, though, so I will be happy to spend some time there. Looking forward to hearing from @Simperegrina about her inaugural stay in the albergue. I wouldn’t be surprised if she winds up in the local news!

 

[Simperegrina]

Ok, so arrived at the newly open albergue in A Rua to much fanfare. A Spanish peregrino, Jordi, who’s been in the same accommodation as me for the past 2 nights arrived before me, so scored the title of the 1st peregrino guest. An inauguration party was in full flow in the albergue, with a man I gather is the head of the association of public albergues in Galicia. Manuel xxxxx…?

Jordi and I were treated like royalty, and after aperitivos and official photos, we were swept off for a late lunch with everyone.

So the albergue is well kitted out. 2 dormitories - both with 3 pairs of bunk beds, one of them has an extra single bed. There’s a room with a single bed which looks like it’s for the hospi to sleep here. Blankets provided for every bed. A room with tables and chairs is provided. There are 2 toilets, 1 basin and 2 showers for Peregrinos: there is a large bathroom with showers, toilets and 2 basins for 2 hospis, Maria explained to me. A cocina - more on that in a mo. Everything is on a single level on the ground floor.

The hospi present is called Maria.

Ok, so now for some odd things I want to mention, some of which could just be teething issues, but some of which just seem mad to me. But I would caveat that although I can get by with my Spanish, it’s entirely possible that some things have got lost in translation. Or possibly these things are common to Xunta donativos - thinking about it, it’s my first Xunta donativo experience. If that’s the case, feel free to put me in my place.

First up: The hospi will not allow the use of the cocina by peregrinos. Won’t allow anything in there to be used by anyone but herself. Won’t allow me to put anything in the fridge, use the microwave, nada. She put my things in the fridge herself. I gather that the cocina and everything in it can only be used by the hospi(s).

She insisted I had to put my clothes only on my bed or in my locker, taking amiss to me hanging a couple of things off the end of the bed next to min. Worth mentioning that I am the only occupant of my room.

It’s good that there are lockers. They are the slim ones, not ones that can fit a backpack. But still.

People staying should be aware that there’s no WiFi here. Tbf that’s the case with some other donativos like the one in Granon and Refugio Guacelmo in Rabanal.

When taking a shower, within 2 seconds on turning on the shower tap, the bathroom floor started to flood. It’s a double whammy of poor shower installation - shower tray too shallow, use of shower curtains that billow straight out, no sloping floor / tray to drain away water. Same is true of the 2nd tiny shower room. After use by multiple consecutive people, it’s going to get very soggy.

I truly don’t intend this to come across as a litany of complaints. The people including Maria are super excited about opening the albergue, and keen as mustard. Maybe someone staying here with better Spanish than me can provide gentle feedback and not be misunderstood. I want it to work - it’s a great resource for the Camino Invierno.

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Whow! What a reception!
I sort of understand Maria while everyting is brand new, but I hope things loosen up a bit in the future.
Have a nice evening

 

[Simperegrina]

Update: I’ve just been allowed in the cocina! Giant steps, people!

(Maybe the problem is me…)

 

[peregrina2000]

I wouldn’t be surprised if she winds up in the local news!

I told you! @Simperegrina in the news!

 

[Simperegrina]

I told you! @Simperegrina in the news!

Hahahahah! It’s very funny.

This trip has been full of unexpected happenings. On day 3 of the Portugues, walking between Barcelos and Casa Fernanda in a day of rain and all in full Altus raincoats, 4 other Peregrinos and me rounded the corner of a church and found ourselves in the midst of the end of a trail running event called Trail Rota dos Peregrinos. Delighted and seemingly surprised to see peregrinos in late Feb, we were instantly acclaimed, photographed as part of the media coverage, and asked to present the prizes to the winners! All very surreal and funny.

 

[jsalt]

De nada. Btw Bar Manuel wasn’t open, but I’m sure that was just an aberration. A car with decals for Hotel Mar was parked outside.

It was closed when we got there too. A neighbour said he was out doing baggage transfer . . .

 

[Simperegrina]

Made the big Galician newspaper, folks.

I shall change my name to ‘una iglesia’

 

[J Willhaus]

Inglesa or iglesia?

 

[Simperegrina]

Inglesa or iglesia?

I fancy myself as a church

 

[Simperegrina]

I’m overdue updates from days 4 & 5…will do a combined one, to include the important Invierno Dog Watch. But first dinner calls in Monforte de Lemos…

 

[Simperegrina]

Well, the last 2 days - A Rua to Quiroga on Saturday, and Quiroga to Monforte yday, have absolutely splendid. I’ve loved every moment (maybe not that last uphill before reaching Quiroga )

I LOVED walking high above the Sil on Friday, and then climbing up high into the hills yday. There’s something about climbing where the pay off of the views, and the feeling that you get when it’s only been made possible by your spirit and strength, make it all worthwhile.

Lots of movements of joy where I just soaked in everything, including the wondrous hamlet of Alvaredos with its pilgrim station (oh my! And I needed that coffee so badly!), the building with the painted wooden figures, its many cats, and the friendly resident who leaned out of his upper floor window for a chinwag. Yesterday I couldn’t help but wish I’d been able to experience the forest before the fires…

I have beeen unbelievably lucky with the weather. Walking through Galicia for 6 days, and it’s been great - no rain, no wind, mild even warm at times, certainly just thin base layer kind of days. The Altus has seen no action so far on this Camino, and much as I love and appreciate it, that’s fine by me.

In terms of Peregrinos, our numbers have no swelled to FOUR: me, Jordi (un Catalan, as the papers call him, Angelo from Italy who started out from Almeira, and Jako from
Madrid, who’s picked up from where he left off on the Via de La Plata last year on Zamora, to complete it now.

I stayed in Hostel Quiper in Quiroga, and we’re all in Albergue Lemova in Monforte. I recommend both, but here are a couple of tips:

#1: this might just be my experience, but for a room (en-suite) in Hostel Quiper, booking dot com showed a price of £32, but when I showed up in person on Sat, I got the room for €24.

Quiper is perfectly located - everything is situated along the main road through the town. A Dia is located just 100m walk away. A Botica was a nice place to hang out and drink (and no doubt eat too).

#2: I like Albergue Lemova but to be aware that it’s on the other side of the railway tracks (just by them in fact) and not in the centre of the town. So if you do want to see the glories of Monforte before night time, you need to walk faster than me to reach Quiroga, check in, shower etc, do all the usual stuff! I’ll see it this morning when the Camino heads out, but it’s not the same.

Dog Watch

In short, quite a few of them. Personally I had no problem with dogs, having been brought up with them, but I do have respect for strange dogs. So, in addition to the usual barking dogs tied up or behind fences:

On Sat’s stretch before reaching Quiroga, a dog came chasing after me, barking its head off. This happened just after the left hand turn after the apartments in Soldándoos. To get rid of it, I had to pick up something from the ground and act as if I was going to throw a stone at it. After 2 or 3 times of doing this, it finally gave up.

On ydays stage, it you take the alternative
route through Noceda, there’s a loose Alsatian that stood up and did a bit of barking as I walked by, but nothing threatening.

There was a problem about 200m after the bridge in A Ponte, when a dog came hurtling out of its home to me, barking furiously and growling. The owners down in their garden called it back, and then I could hear the sounds of the man punishing the dog (from the dog’s yelps).

Then there is a big mastiff type dog in a hamlet just before you do the final climb before Monforte. It was standing in the middle of the street, and Jako who was walking ahead of me, felt nervous and was retracing his steps to try to find a way around it. “Come with me” I said, we’ll go past the dog together. Moments later…well, I’ll just leave this pic. In essence, Reis, the dog, is a big softy of a 1 year old puppy…

 

[Simperegrina]

Yesterday, Monforte de Lemos to Chantada

O
M
G

One of the most challenging day of walking I can remember. Once you’ve done with the long asphalt haul, you’re climbing the rest of the time until the the forest before O Camino Grande.

So a word of caution to people planning to walk the Invierno soon: it’s a mess around Pineiro, an utter mud fest. They’re laying in some water pipes, which doesn’t help. My Camino amigo Jako who was ahead of me, was advised by a local to take the road instead. I can only recommend the same.




I didn’t stop at Torre Vilarino, much as I would have liked to, because I was making slow progress and wanted to stop by the new albergue at Diomondi. Which I did. Spent a very happy hour there being shown around by the very friendly hospi, Carlos. If I hadn’t already arranged to stay in Chantada I would have absolutely stayed there. In fact I’m going to see if I can do a side trip before I return to UK! It’s an amazing place, all credit to the architect. The way it incorporates the Romanesque architecture of the church is brilliant. And the albergue has so many nice features and comforts.

I finally staggered into Chantada around 1930. Jako found me in the supermercado, and said “dinner!” So after checking into the Hostel dpaso (HIGHLY recommend this place), we ate at Oagochu. Kebab with pollo and salad for me. And vino de casa at 1€ a glass Even my amigos from Madrid and Barcelona couldn’t believe it!

 

[Simperegrina]

Oh and btw there’s a horrible little terrier that comes yapping and chasing after you from its house just before the turn to the left to drop down to cross via the stepping stones.

I love dogs but even my patience is being tested

 

[jpflavin1]

Well, the last 2 days - A Rua to Quiroga on Saturday, and Quiroga to Monforte yday, have absolutely splendid. I’ve loved every moment (maybe not that last uphill before reaching Quiroga )

I LOVED walking high above the Sil on Friday, and then climbing up high into the hills yday. There’s something about climbing where the pay off of the views, and the feeling that you get when it’s only been made possible by your spirit and strength, make it all worthwhile.

Lots of movements of joy where I just soaked in everything, including the wondrous hamlet of Alvaredos with its pilgrim station (oh my! And I needed that coffee so badly!), the building with the painted wooden figures, its many cats, and the friendly resident who leaned out of his upper floor window for a chinwag. Yesterday I couldn’t help but wish I’d been able to experience the forest before the fires…

I have beeen unbelievably lucky with the weather. Walking through Galicia for 6 days, and it’s been great - no rain, no wind, mild even warm at times, certainly just thin base layer kind of days. The Altus has seen no action so far on this Camino, and much as I love and appreciate it, that’s fine by me.

In terms of Peregrinos, our numbers have no swelled to FOUR: me, Jordi (un Catalan, as the papers call him, Angelo from Italy who started out from Almeira, and Jako from
Madrid, who’s picked up from where he left off on the Via de La Plata last year on Zamora, to complete it now.

I stayed in Hostel Quiper in Quiroga, and we’re all in Albergue Lemova in Monforte. I recommend both, but here are a couple of tips:

#1: this might just be my experience, but for a room (en-suite) in Hostel Quiper, booking dot com showed a price of £32, but when I showed up in person on Sat, I got the room for €24.

Quiper is perfectly located - everything is situated along the main road through the town. A Dia is located just 100m walk away. A Botica was a nice place to hang out and drink (and no doubt eat too).

#2: I like Albergue Lemova but to be aware that it’s on the other side of the railway tracks (just by them in fact) and not in the centre of the town. So if you do want to see the glories of Monforte before night time, you need to walk faster than me to reach Quiroga, check in, shower etc, do all the usual stuff! I’ll see it this morning when the Camino heads out, but it’s not the same.

Dog Watch

In short, quite a few of them. Personally I had no problem with dogs, having been brought up with them, but I do have respect for strange dogs. So, in addition to the usual barking dogs tied up or behind fences:

On Sat’s stretch before reaching Quiroga, a dog came chasing after me, barking its head off. This happened just after the left hand turn after the apartments in Soldándoos. To get rid of it, I had to pick up something from the ground and act as if I was going to throw a stone at it. After 2 or 3 times of doing this, it finally gave up.

On ydays stage, it you take the alternative
route through Noceda, there’s a loose Alsatian that stood up and did a bit of barking as I walked by, but nothing threatening.

There was a problem about 200m after the bridge in A Ponte, when a dog came hurtling out of its home to me, barking furiously and growling. The owners down in their garden called it back, and then I could hear the sounds of the man punishing the dog (from the dog’s yelps).

Then there is a big mastiff type dog in a hamlet just before you do the final climb before Monforte. It was standing in the middle of the street, and Jako who was walking ahead of me, felt nervous and was retracing his steps to try to find a way around it. “Come with me” I said, we’ll go past the dog together. Moments later…well, I’ll just leave this pic. In essence, Reis, the dog, is a big softy of a 1 year old puppy…

View attachment 166248

In Quiroga I stayed at the community albergue an old school building. it was 10 euros and each room had two beds with your own bathroom. They were also bringing in washing machines and dryers. very simple place and several options in town for eating. This was last July 2023.

I also stayed in Albergue Lemova. Family run Albergue, beds upstairs nice place. Lots of eating options on the other side of the tracks.

 

[jpflavin1]

Yesterday, Monforte de Lemos to Chantada

O
M
G

One of the most challenging day of walking I can remember. Once you’ve done with the long asphalt haul, you’re climbing the rest of the time until the the forest before O Camino Grande.

So a word of caution to people planning to walk the Invierno soon: it’s a mess around Pineiro, an utter mud fest. They’re laying in some water pipes, which doesn’t help. My Camino amigo Jako who was ahead of me, was advised by a local to take the road instead. I can only recommend the same.

View attachment 166305


I didn’t stop at Torre Vilarino, much as I would have liked to, because I was making slow progress and wanted to stop by the new albergue at Diomondi. Which I did. Spent a very happy hour there being shown around by the very friendly hospi, Carlos. If I hadn’t already arranged to stay in Chantada I would have absolutely stayed there. In fact I’m going to see if I can do a side trip before I return to UK! It’s an amazing place, all credit to the architect. The way it incorporates the Romanesque architecture of the church is brilliant. And the albergue has so many nice features and comforts.

I finally staggered into Chantada around 1930. Jako found me in the supermercado, and said “dinner!” So after checking into the Hostel dpaso (HIGHLY recommend this place), we ate at Oagochu. Kebab with pollo and salad for me. And vino de casa at 1€ a glass Even my amigos from Madrid and Barcelona couldn’t believe it!

I found this to be the most challenging day. Nice walk up in the hills along the river. Then steep decline to cross the river followed by a steep 7 km's back uphill to Chantada. Stayed in Albergue A Pousa, very nice clean modern place with washer and dryer. Lots of good options right up the street to eat.

 

[peregrina2000]

: I like Albergue Lemova but to be aware that it’s on the other side of the railway tracks (just by them in fact) and not in the centre of the town

The Albergue Lemavo may have miscalculated when they opened their place - I don’t know the timing, but I do remember that the first time I walked the Invierno, the arrows took you into town at the railway station and then along the long road to the center. The albergue wasn’t open then, but I wonder if they counted on the camino route staying the same. The camino now stays out of town longer and crosses the tracks at a spot that is virtually in the center. I think Lemavo is almost 2 km from the center, but I know it is very highly rated and the owners have a great pilgrim reputation.

There’s another albergue in town, and it’s closer to the center, on the way out of town after you cross the river. An embarrassment of riches, because there is also a very wide range of private accommodation, from an inexpensive B&B, to standard hotels, to a parador!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Oh and btw there’s a horrible little terrier that comes yapping and chasing after you from its house just before the turn to the left to drop down to cross via the stepping stones.

I love dogs but even my patience is being tested

YES. I have met him twice at the same place. He is really annoying. Most dogs stay a few feet away, only showing off and looking like they will attack. While he gets near your legs to snap at them and really agressive. Do not like.

 

[peregrina2000]

YES. I have met him twice at the same place.

Oh and btw there’s a horrible little terrier that comes yapping and chasing after you from its house just before the turn to the left to drop down to cross via the stepping stones.

So where is this place? Cross what stepping stones? The ones near the mill after you cross the Miño? I have a good memory for dogs (fueled by some fear) and never saw this guy.

 

[C clearly]

there’s a horrible little terrier that comes yapping and chasing after you from its house just before the turn to the left to drop down to cross via the stepping stones.

YES. I have met him twice at the same place.

I'm wondering where this is , too.

I encountered 3 yappers at the top of the long rise from Belesar, at the place where the path enters a residential area and takes a sharp left. They were blocking the road so I couldn't even see around the corner, and I wasn't 100% sure that I was in the right place. Eventually someone came along and said "no hacen nada" so I marched ahead knowing that at least my body would be recovered for my family.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So where is this place? Cross what stepping stones? The ones near the mill after you cross the Miño? I have a good memory for dogs (fueled by some fear) and never saw this guy.

Based on the description of the devilish dog I would say it is before the calzada romana veers down towards Belesar. But given that Simperegrina mentions stepping stones (?) I could be mistaken.

 

[Rowena]

In 2022 I encountered nasty little dogs at the beginning of the descent to Belesar, and even nastier little dogs part way up the other side. They yapped and growled and came after me but didn’t attack, thank goodness. In the second instance there were three of them up on a retaining wall on the right hand side of the road, but only one came down to threaten me. I had to keep turning around to yell and wave my poles around like a madwoman. It may have been shortly before the stepping stones beside the ruined mill.

 

[Simperegrina]

Based on the description of the devilish dog I would say it is before the calzada romana veers down towards Belesar. But given that Simperegrina mentions stepping stones (?) I could be mistaken.

That’s it. There are stones there to use to cross, before the path rises up. There was at least one dog - a lab or retriever type waiting for walkers using that crossing. It’s a shortcut that saves a bit of time from the road route that loops around.

 

[J Willhaus]

Oh and btw there’s a horrible little terrier that comes yapping and chasing after you from its house just before the turn to the left to drop down to cross via the stepping stones.

I love dogs but even my patience is being tested

Yes, what about the yappy terrier? Is that also the lab you mentioned above or are they together?

 

[Simperegrina]

Yes, what about the yappy terrier? Is that also the lab you mentioned above or are they together?

No, different spots. The terrier came shooting out of a house/garden on the left as i walked along the road before the path dips down on the rhs - once you’ve passed Via Romana on the right, and Meson e Adega Do Veiga on the left.

 

[C clearly]

there were three of them up on a retaining wall on the right hand side of the road, but only one came down to threaten me

Those sound like the ones I encountered, also in 2022. Two of them were down on the road, and the third was cheering them on from the wall.

 

[Simperegrina]

To bring this up to date with my days from
Chantada to Rodeiro, and then on to A Laxe.

The weather continues to be amazing and looks set to carry me through to Santiago and beyond that, the weekend.

Chantada to Rodeiro: the climb to Monte Faro. Stopped in the bar in the village before the climb for a coffee and an Aquarius (sp?). Climb isn’t particularly difficult - first section is the steepest, then it levels off for a bit allowing you to catch your breath again, then climbs less steeply. Took the stone steps on the left to climb up the grassy path through the stations of the cross. Worth noting for anyone else using the Buon Camino gps map that it shows the route turning off a little further on to the left onto the road leading up to the watchtower right at the top.

Views were sublime.

Descent was loooong. Was thinking, on a very warm summers day there’d be no shade on that descent…

Stayed at Carpinteiras in Rodeiro. Their kitchen was closed that night so the four of us ate in a place around the corner.


Rodeiro to A Laxe. I took the highway. I know, I know, but I recognised the signs of accumulated fatigued. I’ve bounced from the Portugues Central, to Sarria to Santiago, to the Invierno. The previous 2 days (to Chantada, to Rodeiro) had seen me arrive early evening at my albergue, without time to really chill before shower-dinner-bed. Wasn’t helped by a lousy night’s sleep in Rodeiro. So, reluctantly, I listened to my body, and saved a few kms, plenty of ups and downs, and probably several hours on the trail through the Galician farmland, by taking the highway. Arrived at A Laxe mid afternoon after a stop in Lalin to have a lunchtime drink with Daniel of Peregrinus Dezae, get his marvellous stamps in my credential, and have the obligatory photo taken with him for his Facebook page.

Stopping by to say hi to Daniel in his office in Colon Gallerias is a must. To find it, stand with your back to the steps of the main church in the placa type area, head s/o, cafe bar with tables and chairs outside on the left, look ahead for bronze statue of the pig on the right, and on the left is Colon Galerias.

About Daniel: https://www.lavozdegalicia.es/notic...to-atencion-peregrino/0003_202211D12C2994.htm

The trail out of Lalin follows the river - an absolute delight. However, be aware that they’re doing construction work of some sort and you’ll be diverted from the Camino’s routing to get to the river. I used google maps to get me around the works and to the river. Stick to the Camino routing and your Camino gps of choice when it’s time to come away from the river, and get to A Laxe. Dont try and be cute like me and think you can follow the river a bit further *ahem*.

Staying at the muni albergue in A Laxe. It’s vast, but an interesting space. The hospitalera is helpful. Have read older comments about it being poorly maintained but haven’t found that at all tbh. Quite cozy in the dorm room tonight. The radiators work well. WiFi drops all the time, doesn’t seem to work for me in my dorm room, but, hey, not the end of the world…

We ate at bar restaurant Maria Jose up the road. Lentil soup + roast chicken with potatoes + 2 glasses of vino blanco+bread = 12€. She told us she’ll be open again for coffee and desayuno tomorrow around 8am.

When we got back to the albergue, 3 peregrinos had arrived from the Portugues Interior Camino, adding to 2 others from the VDLP.

 

[C clearly]

Dont try and be cute like me and think you can follow the river a bit further *ahem*.

I know exactly what you did!

 

[peregrina2000]

The hospitalera is helpful. Have read older comments about it being poorly maintained but haven’t found that at all tbh.

I have stayed there, too, and it was fine, but the comment I have heard repeatedly from the past few years is that there is a plague of mosquitos - probably not an issue in March, luckily.

Buen camino, I am sort of sorry to see that you’re going to arrive in Santiago soon! Really enjoying your posts.

 

[Simperegrina]

I know exactly what you did!

I was a proper muppet

 

[MassNative]

I was a proper muppet

OK, somebody needs to clue in those of us who have not walked this route.

I am looking at Gronze and Google Maps satellite view and it does look like there is a viable alternate route crossing the river near a small pond. (Assuming I found the same spot, crossing the Rio Pontinas and going uphill towards N-525.) What could go wrong?

Is Tim the Enchanter waiting at that bridge to ask three questions before you can cross?

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

OK, somebody needs to clue in those of us who have not walked this route.

I am looking at Gronze and Google Maps satellite view and it does look like there is a viable alternate route crossing the river near a small pond. (Assuming I found the same spot, crossing the Rio Pontinas and going uphill towards N-525.) What could go wrong?

Is Tim the Enchanter waiting at that bridge to ask three questions before you can cross?

The answer had something to do with swallows I think, so I better look it up before I go there

 

[Simperegrina]

Ok, so my mistake walking along the river path out of Lalin towards the A Laxe albergue, was to look at google maps thinking, “I love this river path, look, I could continue it further’. Which of course I could, but by neglecting to check with the Camino gps routing properly, I mistakenly thought it could meet along the main road soon enough. In fact the Camino route takes you away from the busy road and along a back road for a way.

By the time yours truly realised my mistake, I either had to backtrack (which I hate) or stomp along the side of the highway, up the slip road, somehow get it wrong again, and cross that busy highway to climb a bank to join the Camino route.

The moral is…double, triple check your official Camino routing if you want to do something off piste

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok, so my mistake walking along the river path out of Lalin towards the A Laxe albergue, was to look at google maps thinking, “I love this river path, look, I could continue it further’. Which of course I could, but by neglecting to check with the Camino gps routing properly, I mistakenly thought it could meet along the main road soon enough. In fact the Camino route takes you away from the busy road and along a back road for a way.

My guess is, by looking at gronze’s schematic map, that you turned left to stay on the river path at the point where the camino takes you up and away from the river. That commercial park outside Lalín is a weird place, with a four-star hotel plopped in the middle of it, and the official route has been changed to avoid walking through the commercial park. But it doesn’t look like it was too big of a detour, thankfully! Where are you tonight, @Simperegrina?

 

[Simperegrina]

My guess is, by looking at gronze’s schematic map, that you turned left to stay on the river path at the point where the camino takes you up and away from the river. That commercial park outside Lalín is a weird place, with a four-star hotel plopped in the middle of it, and the official route has been changed to avoid walking through the commercial park. But it doesn’t look like it was too big of a detour, thankfully! Where are you tonight, @Simperegrina?

No, but I didn’t help myself by turning left across the bridge (I’m sure I saw a yellow arrow) and finding myself a busy highway-and-a-bank away from the route. And didn’t want to backtrack.

I reached Santiago yday. I’m behind with my FindPenguins posts, so need to get those up to date, then will provide a summary of my A Laxe to Santiago experience.

 

[Mrs. Bloem]

Congratulations on reaching Santiago!
And thanks for writing about your experiences on the Invierno.

 

[peregrina2000]

(I’m sure I saw a yellow arrow) and finding myself a busy highway-and-a-bank away from the route. And didn’t want to backtrack.

omg, of course! @Simperegrina, back in the day when we published an annual forum invierno guide, we had trouble when the camino was re-routed to avoid walking through that commercial park. Lots of back and forth and confused forum members. I think you probably found an arrow from those days and took the old route! And it’s probably a little shorter than the new route, though not as nice, so in some ways you came out ahead, . We had so much fun doing that guide!

Congratulatioins on your arrival in Santiago, it has been a lot of fun following along.

p.s. BTW, @wisepilgrim took over our forum guide and it lives on in a new format!

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/camino-guides/#camino-de-invierno

 

[Simperegrina]

And I’ve arrived just in time for Semana Santa!

 

[Simperegrina]

omg, of course! @Simperegrina, back in the day when we published an annual forum invierno guide, we had trouble when the camino was re-routed to avoid walking through that commercial park. Lots of back and forth and confused forum members. I think you probably found an arrow from those days and took the old route! And it’s probably a little shorter than the new route, though not as nice, so in some ways you came out ahead, . We had so much fun doing that guide!

Congratulatioins on your arrival in Santiago, it has been a lot of fun following along.

p.s. BTW, @wisepilgrim took over our forum guide and it lives on in a new format!

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/camino-guides/#camino-de-invierno

I recognised the wording in various sections of the Wise Pilgrim guide!

 

[MassNative]

Congratulations!

And thank you for your Live From the Camino posts!!!!!

 

[Simperegrina]

Ok, so let’s start to bring this Camino home….

A Laxe to Outeiro

Left the albergue around 0720. This is where the villages / towns start to come with more frequency, and the Camino takes you through forests and woodlands. It’s mainly downhill over the course of the day. The descent to Ponte Ulla is pretty steep - out came the sticks for the first time that day. And the sting in the tail? The 4.5km climb to the Outeiro albergue..,

But on the way….I absolutely loved it all around the river Deza and A Ponte de Taboada dated 912. It’s magical! How could you not? And the original stone path to Casa A Posta da Prata.

Trasfontao - a tiny hamlet with farms around. Now the Camino follows a stone path downhill to the river. It’s a path-come-stream tbh. Some may want to use sticks here until the path levels as it crosses the river. There’s also 3 barking dogs before you reach the top of the path to descend but they’re all chained up.

Then it’s into the town of Silleda. I stopped for a coffee and croissant at Cuppedia. Then it’s following the path through hamlets, and at times dipping in and out of shady woodland en route to Bandeira. A word here: Wise Pilgrim mentions Bar Plazoleta here as a nice option for food. It was closed when I went there (around 1230-1300), and they’re digging up the square opposite.

Then on through more lovely countryside where my Camigo from Madrid caught up with me. A spot of lunch on a bench, and then we walked the next couple of hours together until just before you start the steep descent into Ponte Ulla.

Mindful that there’s nothing available up at the albergue at Outeiro I stocked up on a few things at the Carrefour in Ponte Ulla. A tip: if you need the Carrefour you have to walk a few meters beyond the Camino sign indicating the trail turn to the right. The Carrefour is on the left, the other side of the road bridge above. It’s just as well I stocked up as when I arrived at the albergue, and we asked the hospitalero about being able to get a delivery from a nearby restaurant (as is the general feedback on the apps, Gronze etc as to what you can do), we were told that the restaurant shuts on Thursdays!

Anyhoos…the climb up isn’t too bad. There does come a point at which I MAY have been muttering “where is this damn albergue”…but finally you arrive. And the setting is truly idyllic and worth every step.

 

[Simperegrina]

Oh fellow Invierno lovers, please add me to your fellowship.

How soon is too soon to think about doing it again…(asking for a friend)…

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Oh fellow Invierno lovers, please add me to your fellowship.

How soon is too soon to think about doing it again…(asking for a friend)…

Today might be too soon to walk again (I value the occasional rest days ) but it's never too soon to think about it......

 

[Simperegrina]

Ok, so regretfully the final day of my Invierno adventure was upon me.

Yago didn’t know about Pico Sacre. As for me, my head was willing but my body was giving me signs that it wouldn’t too thrilled about a little 150m climbing side trip. It had served me briiliantly through 2 full Caminos+Sarria to SdC over the course of a month, but really it was time for a bit of feet-up. So I waved hasta luego to Yago at the turn off for Pico Sacre and headed along the path through the forest to reach Lestado in 3.5km.

Here I NEEDED COFFEE and a bathroom so took the 600m detour to the restaurante on the main road - Restaurante Via de la Plata. Now I won’t lie - the cafe bar at the front hadnt been cleaned from the previous day, it was pretty dirty - but the guy there was super kind, and when I asked for a croissant he pushed plates of churros, mini croissants, bread, honey and madeleines to me (no charge). And also plonked a bottle of water in front of me “for the Camino.”

Not long after rejoining the route, whilst I’m faffing around taking an arty shot of a lilac bush, along comes Yago. We walked the rest of the way into SdC. The hamlets and villages seemed to come all too quickly, and the rest of the hours walking flew by. I’d read that the entry into SdC is the best of all the Caminos. Now I’d only walked the Portugues and Frances into SdC, but boy the Invierno beats them into a cocked hat. Loved it.

And all too soon we were there. Joy, smiles, laughter, and reunion with Jordi and Angelo who’d reached SdC and an hour or two earlier.

When I went to the Pilgrims Office to register for my Compostela, the guy by the kiosks said “But…but…weren’t you here for a Compostela just a couple of weeks ago?!” Lol. “I’m a bit loco” I told him

 

[Rowena]

I have enjoyed reading about your adventures on the Invierno, @Simperegrina. I walked it myself in 2022, and will be tackling the Sanabres in April.
Thank you, and Buen Camino!

 

[Simperegrina]

I have enjoyed reading about your adventures on the Invierno, @Simperegrina. I walked it myself in 2022, and will be tackling the Sanabres in April.
Thank you, and Buen Camino!

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed reading my ramblings.

 

[Theatregal]

I love the Invierno and I've enjoyed your posts @Simperegrina - thank you!!

 

[Simperegrina]

I love the Invierno and I've enjoyed your posts @Simperegrina - thank you!!

Thank you for following along @Theatregal

 

[Faire]

Thank you for following along @Theatregal

Hola, I jave.jist discpvered your theead. How.many days did you tale for.this route please? Will it be too hot in July do you

 

[Simperegrina]

Hola, I jave.jist discpvered your theead. How.many days did you tale for.this route please? Will it be too hot in July do you

I took 11 days. I don’t have any experience of walking it in Jul. Monthly forecasts for Jul indicate temps in the range of 25-27c, so I guess it depends on how you handle walking and climbing in those temps. Lots of the route goes through woods and forests in places, but there is also a fair amount of asphalt walking on quiet roads.

 

[jpflavin1]

Hola, I jave.jist discpvered your theead. How.many days did you tale for.this route please? Will it be too hot in July do you

It will be very hot in July. I walked this route in June/July 2023 and it was in the mid 30's every day. It is a beautiful route but I would recommend late Spring versus Summer.