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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 6.0

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Phoenix said:
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Sunday at sunrise: The tired pilgrim has a few moments of solitude and silence in the light of day.
Plaza Rey San Fernando, Burgos
CF, Sept 2018
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Nothing that a good hot shower and a good feed can't fix. We felt just like this pilgrim when we arrived. I'm sure he's one of the most photographed sculptures.
 

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Camino wristwatch
Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.


The leave no trace/graffiti thread reminded me of this photo.

Having torn the meniscus in my "bad" knee/leg (crushed in an industrial accident when I was a teen and subsequently operated on 3x over the years + 2x more since this Camino) on day #3 of the CP, I had continued on for several days in extreme pain. As I reached the top of an excruciatingly steep hill, I was grateful for this message painted on the wall. For the rest of the day and several times more on the path to SdC, the mantra stood steadfastly against the waves of pain that crashed against my will to continue.

Redondela --> Pontevedra
CP, Oct 2019
 
11 May 2012, between La Franca and Playa de Barro, the Norte. one of four off-camino detours that day in the hopes of seeing Bufones in action, and a switch to staying in hotels that aren't in the guides and aren't on the camino, my blog for the day was Buffoons of All Sorts
 
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August 22, 2018… leaving Carrion in the pre-dawn to avoid the worst of the heat (remember the heatwaves across Spain that summer? Dear Spouse had walked in some of the worst of it, but in general the heat would stay with us right to our return home on Sept. 11).
We would walk all the way to Ledigos that day, and stayed at the Albergue La Mariña — which, quite honestly, served the most elegant food I’ve had at an albergue… the top off to the meal of grilled salmon steaks and par-boiled, then grilled new potatoes and collards was a mango mouse that was just outstanding. The first plate was also lovely: membrillo with a slice of fresh cheese that had been whipped into eggs, cream, and chives to be served as a kind of quiche filling without the crust. There was a kind of crisp bread served with it.
Anyone who has the chance should stop in. I think you can get a sense of how hot it was from the courtyard photo I’ve included.
 

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Fantastic! I saw one on my first day of my first Camino, on the opposite cliff in the valley coming out of Valcarlos… As a Sagittarius/Capricorn who stubbornly refused to walk the Napoleon, I am sincerely considering a next tattoo that will be in Iberian Mountain Goat.
 
Stick around then, more goats to follow. Due to when and what time and where I walked, there are many more pictures of animals than humans in my collection

edit: I’ll admit at first I thought you saw a bufone on Valcarlos and was confused and envious at the same time
 
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Theatregal said:
Mid August 2013. Cabo Fisterra with a view on the right of the controversial and abandoned César Portela designed cemetery.


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When I saw those my immediate reaction was “what a beautiful place to be buried”…I’m not sure about the facing the sea part in the article but I know many Christian graveyards use an East-west axis so the dead face East with the idea of resurrection, so perhaps facing the sea here (west) is a problem more than facing the sea. When I was in Iraq I read about Muslim burials facing Mecca, but wondered how that was squared with customs that soles of the shoe facing someone was an insult. I asked one of the Iraqi pilots, turns out they are buried on their side facing Mecca. Customs around death are interesting

edit: although at the time and to today it also puts a nagging thought in the back of my head that I’ve read a science fiction story about burial in something similar…
 
Viana do Castelo
Rua Hospital Velho

photo taken December 14, 2014



Located on the Portuguese coastal route Viana do Castelo is a charming, small sea/river-side city with a very active fishing fleet.

Facades along this curved pedestrian way lead to a distant view of the hilltop Santuario de Santa Luzia, the major religious monument in the area.
 
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It’s like the street is glowing, pulling me around the corner ahead…beautiful
 
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VNwalking said:
Roncesvalles, of course. Evening light, March 11, 2015.
I loved the walk through Valcarlos, and would do it again in eyeblink, any time of year.
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VN,
This is a beautiful picture of a very special place filled with memory of/for so many pilgrims. Thank you for sharing it.
 
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Aug 23rd 2018 — we made out way from Ledigos, beyond Sahagún to Bercianos del Real Camino where we stayed at a very new, very empty, very nice albergue. Spouse has the only photos from that location. But I snapped a photo of a female European Flycatcher at the halfway arch coming into Sahagún (I’m a bird lover) and of Dear Spouse walking a bit ahead of me in Legartos, into the expanse of the meseta at dawn:
 

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CF April 2019 - Approaching Triacastela the spring flowers are vivid against the greening meadows and the trees are starting to leaf out. Pretty as a picture.

Oh when shall I go back, and walk the well-worn track,
My thoughts and prayers do tell me.
Come, see my people and towns, let smiles replace your frowns,
And gratitude shall fill thee!

 
mspath said:
nearing Castrojeriz
photo taken October 23, 2004

View attachment 106033

During my first CF I took this view. On the distant horizon at the entrance to Castrojeriz the camino turns west continuing for 1200 m. as the longitudinal urban spine.
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The angle suggests you may have been on San Anton's mountain bike fetching supplies?
 
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Burgos
Cathedral de Santa Maria, west facade

photo taken November 8, 2013



This view of the west facade of the Cathedral de Santa Maria was shot near 66 Calle de Fernán González.

Anyone wishing to worship/meditate may enter the cathedral through the southwest corner door, beneath the pointed arch furthest to the right in this view; however within the vast edifice free access is limited.

A fee is charged to visit the cathedral/museum; the entrance for that is on the large plaza on the south side of the cathedral.
 
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RENSHAW said:
The angle suggests you may have been on San Anton's mountain bike fetching supplies?
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No. It was taken through an upper-storey window

Edit 25/08
Sorry. I thought you were referring to my view of Viana do Castelo! Here I was simply walking on the verge of the road.
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Anne&Pat said:
A short walk from Cobreces to Comillas on this day in May, 2018, to give us plenty time to visit the Capricho de Gaudi in the afternoon after our arrival in Comillas. Well worth a visit if you are a Gaudi fan. Photo tomorrow!
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I did the exact same thing! To do over I’d walk santillana to comillas and take a break day there. Much to my disappointment the albergue at the Abbey at Viaceli wasn’t really like staying at an abbey (or what I experienced at Valdedios and Ziortza at least). Vespers was nice but a do-over would be see if I could attend Sext and then keep walking.

edit: looking forward to your pictures, I walked a Gaudi Camino, only missing Bodegas Guell …next time!
 
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CP 2015. My fellow peregrina in the morning.
We met three days after Porto and noticed we stopped at the same places at night.So we decided to walk apart from each other but share the same albergues.Time to time we chose a private hostal to lower the costs.
She and I always had breakfast together and then we walked solo.
We both did not relate at all with the concept of " a Camino family " so this kind of relaxed system worked perfectly for us.
 
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August 24, 2018… We left Bercianos del Real Camino very early… once again because of blistering heat. Most of my photos from that day show the signs of heat fatigue on our faces before we’d even had lunch… and I recall that we were grateful for shaded granite benches in rest points along the way.

We stopped for a proper breakfast in El Burgo Ranero and I was chatted up by a flirty little cat who persuaded me that some of my egg would be very much appreciated. A young fellow, I hope he is still there, charming the visitors.

When on long journeys I miss our cats terribly, and spending a little time in the company of a friendly character helps take the edge off.

Spouse is the kind of walker. Who *always* avoids the larger cities, so we were “off piste” much of the time on this journey, and our stoppIng point this day was Manila de Las Mulas, where we tumbled into a lovely Albergue with a great kitchen for a communal meal — which was pretty necessary as the town it’s et looked like the set for a Spaghetti Western. The yellow sign in the street photo indicates a funeral home is down the lane-way.
 

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Upon reaching SdC, this meal was to honor my younger son. After just completing 5 yrs in the military and having consumed countless MRE's, he ate it every time he found it along the Camino in 2016 (and would eat it 5x/day if possible).

I entered Plaza del Obradoiro with a happy, full belly and fond memories of our Camino together 3 years earlier.

CP, Oct 2019
 
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near Najera
vineyard

photo taken November 1, 2014

Terra cotta and vino tinto



West from Logrono the CF passes through the wine-rich region of Rioja. Although most grapes were harvested by November some escapees perfumed the air; leaves recently turned russet matched deep orange soil. In early morning fog all was damp/chilly; autumn had arrived. Crossing these gently rolling fields was an easy pleasure.
 
fuzzy (it was as usual a dark and stormy day) .... 27 April 2012, monoliths above St. Michael, Hermitage of San Miguel de Arretxinaga, Markina, Norte
...by this point my pilgrim Spanish was getting pretty good in my quest for a key. still couldn't get food without ham in it , but my American accent while begging for church keys was much improved
 
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Love love love these. Did you tour the palacio de Sobrellano and it’s chapel? I really wanted to see the furniture by Gaudi and sculptures by Llimona but there were too many people for me to deal with a tour. El Capricho was thankfully empty
 
Smallest_Sparrow said:
Love love love these. Did you tour the palacio de Sobrellano and it’s chapel? I really wanted to see the furniture by Gaudi and sculptures by Llimona but there were too many people for me to deal with a tour. El Capricho was thankfully empty
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No, we only visited El Capricho and viewed the Palacio de Sobrellano from a distance.
 
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The albergue in Portugalete. It functions/ed for around 6 months a year using what looks to be the aerobics room of the local polideportivo. It had a fridge, a microwave and a spindryer - remember those? Most of the pilgrims didn't, having been born probably after the last one was manufactured. A lot of the 'pilgrims' were, sorry to say, European backpackers having a cheap holiday, but not all: we met some good people. It was run by the local fraternity and we served as hospis to give them a two week respite, I think. It isn't very atmospheric, but I kind of liked that - the camino takes many forms, all valid. It is what it is.

 
August 25th, 2018
Mansilla de las Mulas to Virgien del Camino. I was not thrilled to be passing so rapidly through Léon (even though it’s not my favourite place — I find it kind of harsh toward the youth so clearly struggling economically). Spouse was really *against* cities on this trip (which is not his usual way), so we blew through, but we did stop for churros at the Paris Hotel (I highly recommend their churros con chocolate). And I did sit on Gaudi’s bench to see what the master was drawing in his sketchbook…
As always, the morning walk was gentle… walking before the sun could scorch us… and I felt both fascination for the ruin and empathy for the residents on the Léon street where some repairs had been stalled by the discovery of what appears to be a hypocaust system in a Roman foundation…
 

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I stayed at the Paris…great location but Sin Humo cama only meant “at the moment”. Hopefully next time more chance to see Leon
 
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Smallest_Sparrow said:
I stayed at the Paris…great location but Sin Humo cama only meant “at the moment”. Hopefully next time more chance to see Leon
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I had stayed at the Paris Hotel in 2014 on my first camino -- the water spa *REALLY* helped my legs, my blown knees, my poor hamstrings...
And when I tumbled into Astorga, I took a day on the pilgrim rate at the Via de la Plata Spa hotel, and used their ice baths, steam baths, dry saunas and all that jazz.
For anyone who can manage a splurge, I can't think of a more welcome one for the *body* than the VdlP Spa in Astorga. I did convince Spouse that it was worth our while in 2018, and we actually spent 2 days that time as we could afford the time and share the expense.
 
Our albergue at Cobreces also had a spin dryer. The washing facility was outdoors ie the sink and the dryer was in a wee outhouse, then the clothes hung on the line outside. Luckily the weather was perfect for working and drying outside!
 
Anne&Pat said:
Our albergue at Cobreces also had a spin dryer. The washing facility was outdoors ie the sink and the dryer was in a wee outhouse, then the clothes hung on the line outside. Luckily the weather was perfect for working and drying outside!
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Dryer! Sheer luxury! We didn't have a dryer. Pilgrims had to put washed clothes on a rack. The polideportivo is in the middle of town, so no drying on a line in the sun. I will never forget the astonished look on the faces as we explained the function and operation of a spin dryer, especially the need to collect and dispose of the spin water in a plastic bowl.
 
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On the Invierno, soon after leaving Quiroga along the road, arrows point to the left and across a bridge over the Rio Sil, leading into San Claudio. Gronze calls this routing "absurd" because after walking through San Claudio the route crosses another bridge back onto the same road. I was happy I took the detour through San Claudio which added just a km or two - the early morning views from the bridges were lovely as was the chance to see San Claudio. My only regret was that the Cafe Las Vegas wasn't open for coffee

 
Smallest_Sparrow said:
Trading war stories with a Bridegroom of Death in a town called The Goose

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Frances, May 2012
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Decided to clarify for any who might pass this way in the future, since I’ve read on here some had bad times at the cowboy bar in El Ganso while I had a memorable experience.


Of course people move and retire so this may no longer be true but when I was there I noticed not all the gear hanging from the ceiling was related to westerns, some was modern military, and on the wall hung a prayer rug and the flag of the Spanish Foreign Legion (Bridegrooms of Death)—a unit with an interesting and not always pleasant history but currently are mostly deployed to NATO and also the Spec Ops group.

When I asked about the military gear, rug and tercio flag, we had a pleasant if linguistically challenged reminiscence on parts of the world we’d both seen, and the joys of military life.
 
Camino Frances
east of Castrojeriz

photo taken November 11, 2013



Early November weather was splendid for walking with clear blue skies, no wind and an often lush landscape of shimmering, golden leaved trees crossing the rolling Meseta.

Happily I always had the luxury of unlimited time. It would be so sad to rush or bus ahead in order to keep to some preset timetable.

Part of camino pleasure is savoring each moment; how could you savor rushing? Then these precious golden days would just be dross.
 
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Sorry, actually meant the spin dryer was in the outhouse. There was no tumble dryer!
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
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Ponte Sampaio. CP 2015.
Weird angle.Better pictures through this link.

BRIDGE PONTE ROMANO DE PONTE SAMPAIO IN PONTEVEDRA PONTEVEDRA

Although the origins of the bridge are Roman, there are no traces remaining from this period. The current structure belongs to the Middle Ages. It is a long construction with ten arcades, between which there are breakwaters. On a historical note, the battle of Ponte Sampaio against the French in...
www.turismo.gal
 
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The Rio Sil is a beautiful river.

 
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The path through Molinaseca.

Like many of the paths through the villages & townships, it had an intimate feeling. From the flowers adorning balconies and walls to the unique doors so close on either side, the locals expressed themselves in the details. Sometimes at the forefront of my mind and other times on the "back burner" until later, I always felt gratitude for the opportunity to share their space, even if for a brief moment.

CF, Oct 2016
 
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Umm, where exactly do I sign up for the Oh-what-a-beautiful-morning one?
 
Get a Spanish mobil number + data while on the Camino
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Irache, Frances, 22 April ...the end of my time on the Frances until May, headed to the Norte in the morning; spent the night in the parochial albergue San Miguel in Estella--imo one of the best and the perfect end to this section of my 'outside-the-lines camino' (comparing itineraries a few nights into my walk with others at dinner, mine a patchwork of several routes, a French pilgrim asked me if I always colored outside the lines; I told him I never let lines limit the color in my life )

 
Evening band rehearsal for the cultural association Vira a Bombar - winding their way through the streets of Caminha, Portugal and ending in the main square. I joined a group of people following along - a fun evening!

"Vira a Bombar whose main activity is street entertainment at parties and pilgrimages with the imposing sound of the bass drums and the melodious scream of concertinas. This association's objectives are to promote intercultural actions that enhance cooperation in the defense of traditional musical values and to promote and support activities that contribute to safeguarding the musical heritage."

 
i'm cheating. i've been using this thread to not think about things, and things are just overwhelming today. so i'm pulling out four happy thoughts to share
1. extortionist horses who blocked the path and sniffed my non-food-containing backpack, Norte april 26 Zumaia to Deva

2. Dog got tired of running in the rain to bark at me so hopped on a sheep to continue, enroute to Ziortza, Norte 27 Apr

3. Foncebadon welcoming committee Frances 24 May

4. Foal, entering Grandas Salime, Primitivo 2 Jun


sorry for cheating but I had to
 
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San Miguel, Estella.
I can imagine the job interview for the architect: "So, master Alejandro, I see you've designed a lot of castles, what do you know about churches?"
"Begin with the same letter?"
"Yes"
"And their principal function is to put the fear of God into the peasants"
"When can you start?"
 
west of Arca
photo taken December 8, 2013



Dawn was frigid this December morning; frozen vegetation lining the camino path sparkled like crystal as the sun rose.
It was a perfect winter day for walking the last 20km into Santiago de Compostela and up the hill to the cathedral for the 9th time.
 
Brilliant.

Smallest_Sparrow said:
sorry for cheating but I had to
Click to expand...
I'm glad you did. We all need some respite right now. The dog on the goat is very funny. And that extortionist horse would have gotten my apple and carrot sticks, for sure. Plus a bit of TLC.
 
Altus BALI Sleeping bag liner
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
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Anne&Pat said:
Coastal path between Colombres and Pendueles, May, 2018.
View attachment 107762
Click to expand...

El Palacio de Cristal de Pendueles | Diario del Oriente

www.diariodeloriente.es

This is an article about the ruined house in Pendueles. We stayed there (in Pendueles, not the ruined house) in 2015 and I walked up to have a look at it. I met a local woman who spat on the ground at the mention of 'communists' (i.e. the PSOE) and was vociferous in her claim that Felipe VI was 'not the real king and his wife is only a commoner'; old beliefs die hard. I have to confess to being very elastic in my interpretation of Anglican liturgy to escape her wrath. Apart from that, she seemed very nice. But that coastline is absolutely stunning, isn't it?
 
VNwalking said:
Brilliant.


I'm glad you did. We all need some respite right now. The dog on the goat is very funny. And that extortionist horse would have gotten my apple and carrot sticks, for sure. Plus a bit of TLC.
Click to expand...
You’re the reason horses turn to crime. I kept saying as they kept bumping my pack “I don’t have anything in there!!!!”
 
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I was just looking at my pictures of this a couple of days ago saying to myself “you know, sparrow, you were going to try looking up the history of this house…”

I can imagine after it had been used as a TB hospital the family abandoned it. We don’t think of it in these days of antibiotics, but it was a major killer at that time. People were isolated in hospitals and ships against their will. Children had outdoor lessons in the winter. The City of Hope and other sanitariums sprang up to keep people until they recovered or more often died.
 
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Column capitals in the church of San Pedro, Estella. The Castillian name of the town (Lizarra in Baasque) may, or may not, be derived from St Estelle, a Languedoc saint - in the Middle ages the Navarrese kings encouraged settlement by 'Franks', i.e. foreigners, probably from France. Something else I didn't know until I googled it: Estella is a northern suburb of Wagga Wagga, New South Wales, Australia. This is absolutely, 100% true.

I am guessing the second carving is the kiss of Judas in the Garden of Gethsemane, but I am baffled by the first, unless they had mosh pits in the 12th century. Any ideas?

 
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OK, just experimenting this morning. Thought I'd try and upload an oral/aural picture. And see whether it works - and fits in with this thread? It looks as if you can post URLs linked to SoundCloud, so I just opened an account there and uploaded a 5-minute recording.
https://soundcloud.com/user-478184360-574929120%2Fafter-hornillos-camino-de-santiago-november-2008 It was my first camino in Nov/Dec 2008. I had a Ricoh camera that let you use it like a dictaphone (remember them?). I used it to record my thoughts and impressions of my first walk west through Spain. This was my second day on the meseta, late-mid November after a cold night at the Hornillos municipal albergue...
 
Wasn’t sure if I should or …you should write comedy . If it was a serious question for guesses, how about the 12 apostles, top right and left and bottom right is 11, plus one one bottom left (John) with the three Marys, with Christ’s mother closest to his head, and the hand reaching down from above the Father? That’s the story I’d write at least
 
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Nice, Paul. Comes across clearly. Thanks.
 
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Hmm after coffee my original thought doesn’t work, only one woman (still going with it being the Virgin) so I’ll make the other two Joseph of Arimethea and Nicodemus.
 
Theatregal said:
Late afternoon in Viana do Castelo, enjoying the life of the city from my table in the Praça da República.

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Theatregal,
What a happy photo this is showing the lively city. Did you enjoy the food?
2014 in VdC I ate at 2 wonderful places: Casa Primera where fisherman ate delicious huge portions generally of fish and cheap; more upmarket but with a simple daily menu was O Laranjeira. The dining room was handsome with white linen, the Portuguese food creative and delicious. ...These remain delicious memories.
 
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Oh @mspath ! You have helped me remember the place where I had a memorable meal. The most delicious sea bass at a colourful lively restaurant . I have a photo of our meal but I hadn't noted the name of the place. Looking at photos of the Casa Primera, I'm certain this was the place. Thank you! Wonderful (and yes, delicious!) memories of Viana do Castelo.
 
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You should write travel guides, I can almost taste the food and hear the chatter in the restaurant!
 
Just after sunrise. Trying to work out the logistics of these two photos taken of the Cruz de Atapuerca on September 19, 2012. The first photo was taken approaching the cross and time stamped 8 min before the second photo, which was taken from the other side and looking back. I think

 
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Makes sense. The sunrise was behind us as we left Agés.
 

Probably Luke 5: 17-20
 
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crucifixion of St Andrew apparently
Although guides have been known to be wrong…seems some of the capitols are about Christ’s birth, life, death and others about St Andrew, a patron saint of Estella.
 
August 28th 2018… Dear Spouse had really, really blown out his shins with a series of long 33-36 K days just because he wasn’t aware they would catch up to him. So we stayed from the 27th-29th in Astorga, and on this day in 2018 we visited the museum in the Gaudi Palace, the Roman archeology museum in the original sewer system, and the street market where we had churros from a truck. He and I are in agreement that everything abut life at home would be improved if North Americans generally had a more immediate relationship with a very visible history, a reverence and place for the creative accomplishments of great artists and architects (I try to imagine a Gehry Palace in a place like Kelowna or St. Catharines), and *street churros*.
We also long for public squares where toddlers can roam safely away from their parents, to be turned back toward them when they reach the far end… and the teens can come out to play without being castigated by the families who are all out for late night coffees, drinks, gelados…
 

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Positive ID. Thank you. Bill 905 suggested healing the paralyzed man (Luke 5: 17- 20), but I couldn't understand why his feet were bound with rope. We may never know for sure. According to Zanecki (Romanesque Art), some church carvings were not even of Christian, let alone biblical topics, e.g. Hercules, King Arthur. At least I got the church right. But once again, thanks all for your interest.
 
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Least I could do for you solving my mystery of the palace ruins

although it seems odd his feet are bound if this is St Andrew (crucified on an X shaped cross) but I bow to the experts
 
Valcarlos/Luzaide
view to France

photo taken October 16, 2012



Crossing borders in the Pyrenées

This mountain landscape view is from the municipal albergue in Valcarlos/Luzaide, Spain, towards the facing slope in Ondarolle, France.

Hidden within the foreground trees is the rio Luzaide/ la nive Arnéguy, which since the 17th c Treaty of the Pyrenées serves here as the border between Spain and France.
 
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Thank you to @mspath and @Camino Chrissy for those photos. I hope to be fortunate enough to walk that route again… but not solo the next time. I’d like it to be with Dear Spouse who went on his own 4 years after I went on my own… and we long to share it (with his wisdom of sleeping over in Valcarlos).
 
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