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On the Camino: One Day at a Time, one Photo at a Time 4.0.

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leaving Hontanas
photo taken November 10, 2014

west of Hontanas.jpg

Into the void


Walking west into a freezing fog-hidden void was a frosty pleasure; it may have been impossible to see clearly, but the ever present mud was frozen.

Crossing the meseta the camino enters another world. Thankfully past are the hordes of camera-clicking tourists and/or pilgrims as well as any urbane atmosphere with a bar at every corner. Open space prevails.

All is reduced to simple basics; I was alone on a seemingly endless gravel path beneath the vast dome of an immense sky. The only sound is the companionable crunch of my boots and perhaps distant birdsong.

Crossing such a wilderness I always "expected" to see Saint Jerome, but hopefuĺly without his lion!!
 
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Approaching la cruz de hierro, day 22. 14th July 2006. We chose to give this meaning. It has no meaning in and of itself. I have just begun the course on the Camino, out of the University of Santiago. It has never been an unchanging reality, the Camino. I am very happy I was there then. Will I ever walk the same way? and so what? It was a gift, a challenge and a privilege.
274dawn hacia la cruz de hierro.webp271cruz, ours.webp
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
This small ruin (shepherd's hut?) is between the Croix Thibaut and the border crossing into Spain on the Route Napoléon. Today, looking at the photo I noticed a marker stone with a shell and (unreadable) inscription on the right side of the photo. I can't find any info about it. I do remember walking over to explore it... it was my first lesson in stepping carefully around 'concealed' areas of buildings and stone walls :)

ruin.webp
 
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near Los Arcos, Haystack
photo taken October 27, 2013

east of Los Arcos 27.10.2013.jpg

Strangers no more

Hiking towards Los Arcos the glorious autumn day was cool, clear and crisp; it was perfect for following the camino across endless fields of recently harvested grapes. What joy it was to feel strong and to stride easily compared with my earlier shaky exhaustion; solitude was a delight.

Slowly from the distant horizon appeared a figure walking towards me; tall, tanned, wearing a beret and bearing packs on both his chest and back he strode smoothly along. When I said "Hola" he graciously greeted me in several languages and explained that early in summer he had walked from his home in Germany down to Saint Jean Pied de Port and on to Santiago. Now he was walking back towards southern France, Italy and eventually Rome. What an itinerary! What determination!

After a short pause sitting on a rock near this haystack sharing a few cookies as well as several camino confidences we shook hands and sincerely wished each other "Ultreia" and "Adieu".

Each of us moved towards our different horizons but strangers no more.
 
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near Los Arcos, Haystack
photo taken October 27, 2013

View attachment 95965

Strangers no more

Hiking towards Los Arcos the glorious autumn day was cool, clear and crisp; it was perfect for following the camino across endless fields of recently harvested grapes. What joy it was to feel strong and to stride easily compared with my earlier shaky exhaustion; the early solitude was a delight.

Slowly from the distant horizon appeared a figure walking towards me; tall, tanned, wearing a beret and bearing packs on both his chest and back he strode smoothly along. When I said "Hola" he graciously greeted me in several languages and explained that early in summer he had walked from his home in Germany down to Saint Jean Pied de Port and on to Santiago. Now he was walking back towards southern France, Italy and eventually Rome. What an itinerary! What determination!

After a short pause sitting on a rock near this haystack sharing a few cookies as well as several camino confidences we shook hands and sincerely wished each other "Ultreia" and "Adieu".

Each of us moved towards our different horizons but strangers no more.
This is our photo from 30th, August, 2014 on the way to Los Arcos. The haystack on the left of our photo looks like your haystack nearly a year on!
30 Aug #12 1204hrs On the Way to Los Arcos.webp
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Alto de Perdon
photo taken October 17, 2011

Alto de Perdon 17.10.2011.jpg

On a clear day I could see forever!

Climbing up the Alto de Perdon alone in the golden morning light was slow but not impossible.

Luckily at the top I met a young multi-lingual fellow from the Austrian Tyrol; we chatted in French, shared some fruit and then he snaped this photo for me.

Next came the dreaded slow descent.
Offering his arm for support on that slippery scree he was SO formally correct that we might have been at the famed Viennese New Year's ball.

Once the path became easier at Uterga seated in the sunshine we drank celebratory cervezas at the friendly bar/hostal/albergue Camino del Perdon where I had stayed in earlier years; their food was great and the albergue bunks most comfy. The smiling staff greeted me by name and I asked to stay the day and another night to recoup.
 
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So did you scale a building in the late night or pre-dawn light? 🤣

Beautiful picture, btw.
Taken from the window of the covered balcony of my room, on the top floor of the Hotel Rua Villar. One of my favourite hotels, when I can get a reservation. .
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
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San Agustin.webp

Not the kind of church interior I like. I prefer more simplicity but the Church of San Agustin ( Jesuits ) near the market in Santiago de Compostela is still the place where I go to for some quiet time.
The insipring sermons from priest Balthasar and the beautiful organ music make all the difference.
Close to the market it also attracts the occasional passerby who comes in to reflect and / or to rest.
A true parish church.

 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Taken from the window of the covered balcony of my room, on the top floor of the Hotel Rua Villar. One of my favourite hotels, when I can get a reservation. .
Me too. And very helpful staff. Last time I was battling to get a printout of my boarding pass for a cheap flight (with a penalty if I turned up without it) and they managed it after I had given up in despair.
 
Leaving el Acebo. We copied a pair of agile miners from the south of Spain, in what they asked for from the menu, except for the final item in their list - whisky!
It was a serious breakfast - embutidos, quesos, pan, un vinito...cafe con leche of course. (We never did take sweet things for the first proper breakfast, always something to give more lasting energy. After Ponferrada, we made sure not to trust our stuff to the fridge. We were sorely disappointed to discover someone had beaten us to our breakfast.)
The miners soon caught up on us, chattering away, smoking to their hearts' content, and overtook us in no time, skipping cheerfully down the hill! A beautiful memory.
Don't you all love this memory trip thread? Thanks for the idea, Sabine!

280.webp
 
March 25, 2019 - Looking towards the foothills of the Pyrenees from the ramparts of the Citadel in St. Jean Pied de Port. I start my Camino tomorrow. Several people have commented to me that I will be seeing some incredible landscapes. That is true, but I believe that an important reason for the Camino is to help bring internal landscapes into focus also.

IMG_20190325_164055.webp
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Leaving el Acebo. We copied a pair of agile miners from the south of Spain, in what they asked for from the menu, except for the final item in their list - whisky!
It was a serious breakfast - embutidos, quesos, pan, un vinito...cafe con leche of course. (We never did take sweet things for the first proper breakfast, always something to give more lasting energy. After Ponferrada, we made sure not to trust our stuff to the fridge. We were sorely disappointed to discover someone had beaten us to our breakfast.)
The miners soon caught up on us, chattering away, smoking to their hearts' content, and overtook us in no time, skipping cheerfully down the hill! A beautiful memory.
Don't you all love this memory trip thread? Thanks for the idea, Sabine!

View attachment 96093
Looks really nice without the row of UN flags at the bottom end of this little hamlet... seems progress often replaces quaintness...
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
near Pieros
photo taken November 7, 2004

near Pieros 2004.jpg

After passing rows of duplex
housing in Columbrianos, a circa 1930 company town, the CF slowly began to climb higher through orchards and vineyards.

Somewhere through a locked gate I saw a field filled with large 20th c. sculpture; it was a shock to discover so much ‘art brut' amidst the landscape! The sign read
Estudio de Escultora A. NOGUEIRA

After using my Canon digital IXUS camera (without GPS ) I scribbled "Near Pieros" in notes.

Artura Nogueria is a noted sculptor but the location of his outdoor studio is still unknown to me. Never on any future camino did I pass this spot again.

By chance have you? If so please do let me know where it is exactly located
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
near Pieros
photo taken November 7, 2004

View attachment 96117

After passing rows of duplex
housing in Columbrianos, a circa 1930 company town, the CF slowly began to climb higher through orchards and vineyards.

Somewhere through a locked gate I saw a field filled with large 20th c. sculpture; it was a shock to discover so much ‘art brut' amidst the landscape! The sign read
Estudio de Escultora A. NOGUEIRA

After using my Canon digital IXUS camera (without GPS ) I scribbled "Near Pieros" in notes.

Artura Nogueria is a noted sculptor but the location of his outdoor studio is still unknown to me. Never on any future camino did I pass this spot again.

By chance have you? If so please do let me know where it is exactly located
The nearest I can find is this short piece that locates him in Villafranca del Bierzo. https://www.lanuevacronica.com/nogueira-talla-un-peregrino-sonador-de-tres-metros-para-villafranca
Another one: https://bembibredigital.com/news/carboncilloypluma/10998-arturo-nogueira
Now I am curious, but not today! I need to do some other stuff! I spent many years playing with clay but at present no classes because of the pandemic...muscle memory is still there though, so when it is possible I will go back.
 
The nearest I can find is this short piece that locates him in Villafranca del Bierzo. https://www.lanuevacronica.com/nogueira-talla-un-peregrino-sonador-de-tres-metros-para-villafranca
Another one: https://bembibredigital.com/news/carboncilloypluma/10998-arturo-nogueira
Now I am curious, but not today! I need to do some other stuff! I spent many years playing with clay but at present no classes because of the pandemic...muscle memory is still there though, so when it is possible I will go back.
Kirkie,
Thanks for looking.
I read those also. They do not locate this studio.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I guessed as much! I have a friend, he was our pottery teacher, and a very good friend, and a stickler for research... I have passed on the baton. Let’s see what results ensue!
That's a great idea ! Thanks for your persévérance.
 
March 26, 2019 - St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles - Meditation theme: Gratitude
A way marker in St. Jean Pied de Port. How nice to have way markers … wouldn’t it be nice if the way markers for our lives were as obvious? I pray El Camino will help me to be more perceptive to the way markers in my life.

IMG_20190325_162016.webp
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
March 26, 2019 - St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles - Meditation theme: Gratitude
A way marker in St. Jean Pied de Port. How nice to have way markers … wouldn’t it be nice if the way markers for our lives were as obvious? I pray El Camino will help me to be more perceptive to the way markers in my life.

View attachment 96137
Is this connected? I have begun an online course, along with almost 20,000 others, on the topic of the Science of Health and Happiness, yesterday, a strong element was about gratitude The more we work on it, the more we become imbued with it.
 
near Pieros
photo taken November 7, 2004

View attachment 96117

After passing rows of duplex
housing in Columbrianos, a circa 1930 company town, the CF slowly began to climb higher through orchards and vineyards.

Somewhere through a locked gate I saw a field filled with large 20th c. sculpture; it was a shock to discover so much ‘art brut' amidst the landscape! The sign read
Estudio de Escultora A. NOGUEIRA

After using my Canon digital IXUS camera (without GPS ) I scribbled "Near Pieros" in notes.

Artura Nogueria is a noted sculptor but the location of his outdoor studio is still unknown to me. Never on any future camino did I pass this spot again.

By chance have you? If so please do let me know where it is exactly located
After Valtuillede Arriba the Camino turns right off the main road, LE-713, and then forks left along a track.The studio is on the right shortly afterwards. It is possible to see it on Google Earth from a nearby road, but not from the track. Google maps view below.

Screenshot_2021-03-26 Google Maps.webp
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
After Valtuillede Arriba the Camino turns right off the main road, LE-713, and then forks left along a track.The studio is on the right shortly afterwards. It is possible to see it on Google Earth from a nearby road, but not from the track. Google maps view below.

View attachment 96144
Thank you so much for this info!
Here under total confinement in rural France you have truly made my day.

MM
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
2nd ed.
Thanks again! I'm toasting you with our local brew ie.champagne!!

42°36'03.7"N 6°46'40.5"W
Villafranca del Bierzo, León, Spain
https://goo.gl/maps/f2xr85n1v5WppLGQ6
This is my last post re the studio I promise. However if you "walk" the LE 713 to where it is numbered in green on your map view and look left there is a place for pilgrims to relax.
Slightly further to the left ie west ie towards VdB this shot was taken on-line today. Looks like bits of sculpture in the field. Thus a more recent photo of the studio .
Screenshot_20210326-144406_Maps.webp
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
I think this was one of the more dangerous little sections along the CF, at least in the winter months. On the way down from Cruz de Ferro, just past the village of Riego de Ambrós, this little chute among the thorns presented with some lovely smooth, icy rocks that made staying upright a proper challenge. A challenge I did not always succeed at...

Danger.webp
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Bar Gil 24 maart.jpg

Bar Gil in Reliegos. March 2017. I was the only pilgrim in the village that night. Only one albergue open ( did not like the vibe from the owner much ) so spend lots of time at Bar Gil.

This I what I wrote about the warm welcome in the bar ( another thread in 2017 ).

"
Then you arrive in Reliegos and you stop for the day and you are literally the only pilgrim that stays in town that night ( all the other ten pilgrims I noticed that day went on to Mansilla de las Mulas ). And the lady of the bar welcomes you ( as do the other six visitors who are playing cards ) and finds you some food and puts you next to the stove .
And her husband shows you how to clean the fresh anchovies and you get a crash course how to prepare them too....And you talk politics...that he started because I never begin with that.... "
 
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291.webp
In and around Villafranca del Bierzo, photo number 291. these numbers are maybe totally misleading, as I remember we used a system where every now and then we had to upload them to somewhere. On getting home, we had 9 rolls or equivalent. then we sorted them for a presentation to friends...
 
March 27, 2019 - Roncesvalles to Larrasoana - Meditation theme: Forgiveness
I met my travelling companions in St. Jean Pied de Port. Two of them have time constraints and will not be able to complete the entire Camino ... this year. The importance of El Camino was frequently demonstrated to me by the number of people I encountered who were completing the Camino in 'annual instalments', and by others who had done more than one Camino.

IMG_20190327_100220.webp
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
We stayed a few days in Sahagún while Peg tried to get over the meseta tummy troubles that had bothered her for the good part of a week. Our last full day there was the start of the festival honoring San Juan de Sahagún. Although it officially was started by a balcony proclamation by the alcalde late in the afternoon on Thursday the young members of several peñas (clubs) started to congregate at the plaza mayor around noon. Each club had its own color. I'm going to show you the various colors in series.

The colors of Sahagún: Red

N02900-HOR.webp
The bulls will take this same route shortly.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I can still vividly remember the first time I left Pamplona, knowing at some point I'd see the monument on Alto del Perdon. Even in winter the landscape was warm and vibrant as I passed this bridge just beyond the university. Some hours later it got rather whiter... but that image will be for tomorrow :)

Leaving_Pamplona.webp
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Your Norte photos are really inspiring me. I've been a CF walker over and over because I love the route so much but after seeing your photos and a couple of youtube videos, I'm really leaning to CN being my next!
Hi Jozero.
Glad to hear our photos are inspiring you!
We aren’t great photographers but try our best😉
I can’t remember when you joined this thread but we had already posted quite a number of our Norte photos in the first, second and third threads, so you could look back at those as well, if you like.👍
The Norte was our third Camino and we were a bit apprehensive about it, because it was meant to be physically demanding, more so than the CF. But we both thoroughly enjoyed it, the varying scenery, countryside, the coastline, all the cities, the many historical places and the challenging walking (ascending and descending)!
We did a number of the coastal alternatives recommended by Peregrina 2000, which are documented on the Forum.
We walked from the end of April to mid June, including walking on to Finisterre and Muxia. We met quite a number of pilgrims from all over the world ( definitely not as many as we did on the CF) but enough to make us feel we were on a pilgrimage route.
If we ever get to walk the Camino again we would definitely like to walk the CF, possibly starting from LePuy, we are hoping to do this next year, if we can’t this year!
Then if we are still fit enough to walk over the coming years, we would consider walking the Norte and the Portuguese again.
Buen Camino
Anne & Pat
 
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Alsa Burgos.webp

The well known Alsa buscompany. Ticketsales in Burgos. Finished the Camino Vasco Interior 2019. Took bus back to Irun. Walk over border to Hendaye in France .Then train via Paris to Brussels.

Little did I know that it would be my last stay in Spain before the pandemic started.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Between Llanes and Nueva you will find this beautiful sight. Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Dolores after you pass through Barro. Have already posted a similar picture of this previously but it was one of our favourite views on the Norte, so here it is again. The first photo(mobile phone) is actually just to the left of the right photo(camera).
20180521_094632.webpP5210387.webp
 
Fail to prepare? reduce your risk by buying this book full of practical info.
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Oh goodness no, I am out of my head! I was never in Caceres. Thanks, Sabine. Without you I would be gone to the dogs totally. Just somewhere on the Cf, after Ponferrada and before OCebreiro. Unless I stole the photo and forgot about that too! Maybe I will take a break from posting photos for a while, might be safer!!!
 
Oh goodness no, I am out of my head! I was never in Caceres. Thanks, Sabine. Without you I would be gone to the dogs totally. Just somewhere on the Cf, after Ponferrada and before OCebreiro. Unless I stole the photo and forgot about that too! Maybe I will take a break from posting photos for a while, might be safer!!!


hahaha I just edited it. See above. And nah...keep posting please!
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
March 28, 2019 – Larrasoana to Pamplona - Meditation theme: Understanding
In Pamplona we ate dinner at La Bodegana Sarria and simply asked the owner/waiter to 'feed us', which he did wonderfully - Basque ham sandwiches on bread still warm and fresh from the oven, grilled chorizo, a tasty mushroom omelet, and Sangria! Above the bar are photographs of the running of the bulls. I asked the waiter if the bulls ran down this street, and he replied that they did ... but he thought that the people who ran with them were ‘stupidos’. :)

IMG_20190328_154240.webp
 
It looks like Villafranca del Bierzo to me. My picture is I think a bit further up the street.
View attachment 96280
My photo of the street.
Q22800-HOR.webp
I couldn't pass up my chance to submit this picture. I intend to resume The Colors of Sahagún tomorrow.
 
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