Well, two days in, and things are going very well. I´m in Barco de Valdeorras in the Hostal Tortuga that Reb´s guide recommends. I saw several other pensiones in town but just thought there must be good vibes coming from that place, so I went there. Let me say, though, that although it is true that the Hostal Tortuga is number 38 on the main drag, it´s not the FIRST number 38 on the main drag, which changes names and hence numbers many times. As Reb said in her guide, this town goes on forever.
I have been taking lots of notes and will post them when I´m home, but some general comments and impressions so far:
No one in Ponferrada knows or cares about the Camino de Invierno. The hospitaleros in the albergue were very critical and thought it was a stupid idea to leave the Francés. Well, I did have my doubts, I had met a bunch of very nice people on the Francés, but the albergue in Ponferrada has all its 180 beds filled two nights ago, so imagine what things will look like from here on.
The Invierno is spectacularly well marked, with mojones, from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Florez (last town in Leon/El Bierzo). From Puente de Domingo Florez to Sobradelo, there are freshly painted yellow arrows. From a few kms later until Barco de Valdeorras there are commercially printed camino markings (with the stick figure pilgrim, the stick figure conch shell, and an arrow at the bottom), but they are not at every place you´d like them to be. I´m taking notes and will post with details later. Based on Reb´s guide, it looks like things could get tough in the next few days, and I am an expert at getting lost.
So far this is spectacular. Day one had a couple of steep ascents (totalling over 800 m), first to a castle built on an impossible peak, then down, then to the Roman gold mines of As Médulas which is an astonighing place. Today´s walk was less spectacular, but beautiful -- through chestnut forests and cherry orchards and vineyards, and along the Sil River. An old woman in one of the towns told me which cherry trees to pick, as they were in abandoned properties. OMG, the cherries are wonderful!
So, if you are tempted by the Invierno, keep it in mind. Reb´s guide is incredibly helpful and even I haven´t gotten lost once yet! Buen camino, Laurie
I have been taking lots of notes and will post them when I´m home, but some general comments and impressions so far:
No one in Ponferrada knows or cares about the Camino de Invierno. The hospitaleros in the albergue were very critical and thought it was a stupid idea to leave the Francés. Well, I did have my doubts, I had met a bunch of very nice people on the Francés, but the albergue in Ponferrada has all its 180 beds filled two nights ago, so imagine what things will look like from here on.
The Invierno is spectacularly well marked, with mojones, from Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Florez (last town in Leon/El Bierzo). From Puente de Domingo Florez to Sobradelo, there are freshly painted yellow arrows. From a few kms later until Barco de Valdeorras there are commercially printed camino markings (with the stick figure pilgrim, the stick figure conch shell, and an arrow at the bottom), but they are not at every place you´d like them to be. I´m taking notes and will post with details later. Based on Reb´s guide, it looks like things could get tough in the next few days, and I am an expert at getting lost.
So far this is spectacular. Day one had a couple of steep ascents (totalling over 800 m), first to a castle built on an impossible peak, then down, then to the Roman gold mines of As Médulas which is an astonighing place. Today´s walk was less spectacular, but beautiful -- through chestnut forests and cherry orchards and vineyards, and along the Sil River. An old woman in one of the towns told me which cherry trees to pick, as they were in abandoned properties. OMG, the cherries are wonderful!
So, if you are tempted by the Invierno, keep it in mind. Reb´s guide is incredibly helpful and even I haven´t gotten lost once yet! Buen camino, Laurie
