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newbie seeking advice Camino Primitivo

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May/June 2024
Hi, everyone. I am a newbie planning for my first Camino. and would like to get some advice from people who have experience with Camino Primitivo and Camino Portuguese.
I have 2~3 weeks to spend and my initial plan is to walk Camino Portuguese from Porto. During my research, I came across Camino Primitivo and I was immediately attracted to it and want to try it as my first Camino (beautiful scene + it is the "original way"). After reading more info online, I learned it is much more challenging than Portugal's and there are fewer services available and much fewer pilgrims. I am a bit concerned as I am going to travel solo and this is my first Camino, and the longest hike I had so far is about 25km per day(not very tough terrains). Here are some of my concerns and I am seeking advice from someone who had walked the Camino Primitivo in recent years.
1. it is safe to walk Primitivo alone?
2. what's the chance of getting lost?
3. It is said it normally takes ~ 14 days to finish it, and I don't mind if I have to take a bit longer but it seems on some days people have to walk at least 30+ km on tough terrain to get to the next accommodation. how many sections or days that people have to walk 20+km minimum with no shorter choice?
4. Any suggestions are welcome

Buen Camino!
 
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While it’s possible to complete the Primitivo as your first Camino, it really shouldn’t be your first long-distance hiking experience, especially solo. There are fewer options for shorter stages, fewer walkers who can help you out if something goes wrong, fewer places to stay, and so on. Given your lack of experience, the Camino Portuguese or the Frances may be more suited to you. You can walk a variety of distances and even if you walk by yourself, you’ll have plenty of company on the trail. Depending upon what month you walk, you can even have the trail to yourself most of the time. Know your limits and identify what you hope to get out of your Camino, then decide where to walk.
 
Greetings, @pixel , and welcome to the forum!

One thing that you don't mention that is quite important - when to you intend to go?

To answer your questions :

1/ yes it is completely safe to walk the Primitivo alone.
2/ the chances of getting lost are very very slim. I did not carry any kind of app and I had zero issues, it is extremely well marked. If unsure you could always load an app onto your phone. Many of them work offline as well so reception is not an issue.
3/ There are NO sections on the trail where you have to walk 30+ km days. There is one stretch with absolutely nothing, the Hospitales - 24.3 kilometers. You can walk longer distances but you don't have to.
3b/ 20+ km sections. Yes there are a few of them.

Before you make any decision may I suggest you get a guidebook. The Village to Village map guide on the Primitivo that I got from Ivar is absolutely excellent. It has suggested stages, but shows all of the potential stopping points so you can shorten or increase your days. All of the accommodation options are listed within and it even tells you where you will likely find water, cafes or vending machines along the way. It was an excellent planning resource for me. It's small, and light enough to carry should you wish to do so.
There are also a number of threads on the Camino Primitivo from last year. @David Tallan , myself and @dbier all posted about our experiences.

Whilst @Vacojoe raises some valid points, (things only you can answer) as somebody who walked the Primitivo in July last year I disagree that you shouldn't walk it as your first Camino.

I met numerous pilgrims last year for whom it was a first-time Camino. In fact on my first day I accompanied a young woman (30's) who had decided to walk the Primitivo at the last minute - 5 days before. She'd gone out and borrowed or bought clothing and equipment, booked her flight but otherwise done zero preparation. Yes it took her a long time (8+ hours) to get to the first stop - Paladin (20km), but get there she did. And yes, on the 14th day she walked into Santiago.

And you are already up to walking 25 kilometers - although it is unclear whether that was a one-off or as part of your training. Unless you hope to leave in a few weeks you've got plenty of time to train.

Secondly, walking solo. The vast majority of people I met on the camino were walking solo. There were four or five couples, a group of three women, and a couple of small families, but of the other 30 or so people I came across nearly everybody started solo. Please note I say started, as many of us joined others for at least part if not more of a day, and we often sat together for dinner at night or whenever we met at cafes. Actually because cafes are so few and far between they become more social because you often have to sit with somebody!

It's true that there is little in the way of services many days. ( Sometimes just a vending machine, occasionally nothing). But that just means carrying a little food and sometimes more water ( few or no fountains).

I encourage you to read the threads I mentioned, there are plenty more. And feel free to ask any additional questions.

I have absolutely nothing against walking the Portuguese, I intend to do it myself one day. But the Primitivo - it's special.
 
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I walked both the portuguese and the primitivo. They are rather different. The primitivo is indeed harder but ( to me anyway) much more beautifull and rewarding. Main factors : the landscape, far less pilgrims than the crowds on the Portuguese ( after Tui) but still enough for social intercourse with fellowtravellers. The hospitalessection is beautifull. To really enjoy it it should be nice, dry weather.
If you are used to/ like to walk on your own I see no reason why you would not walk the primitivo.
 
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Hi Pixel,
I am doing the Primitivo as my first Camino in May this year, and I will be solo. I am a little nervous to be honest but also very excited.
I did have a look at the others and this one appealed to me the most due to the hills and scenery.
I am comfortable alone, but I am hoping to meet fellow pilgrims along the route.
I do a lot of walking so I should be ok with the distances and I have allowed myself 13 days to complete the route.
I did buy the Primitivo guide book from this site, and I do recommend it, to plan stops and look at the distances between amenities and it does not seem as sparse as I first thought.
If you plan to do it in May, I may see you along the route.
Buen Camino.
 
The Primitivo was my first Camino in May 2019. I walked alone. It was not crowded but I met other Peregrinos including 3, who were also walking alone, and we have remained friends and went on to walk the Invierno together for different stages.
It is beautiful, it is green and mountainous. It is very safe and well marked. It is challenging and well worth it. Be prepared for weather and take a look at posts from others on this forum who have walked recently. Good Camino information on Gronze.com, Wise Pilgrim app, Buen Camino app. These last 2 have offline GPS that is most helpful. Buen Camino and travel light with the essentials.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
I have no advice to give but I can give you a link within this forum where you can get a tremendous amount of information about the Primitivo, its sub-forum.

Above the thread title before the first post you can see a small Spanish flag (representing a Camino within Spain) and "Camino Primitivo". That is the link to the sub-forum. Forgive me if you already knew that but sometimes the moderators may change the sub-forum for an enquiry from a general one made by a member to a more specific one.

I can save you the trouble of hunting down that link. It sends you to
 
Whilst @Vacojoe raises some valid points, (things only you can answer) as somebody who walked the Primitivo in July last year I disagree that you shouldn't walk it as your first Camino.
To be fair, I did NOT say it shouldn’t be their first Camino! I specifically said it shouldn’t be their “first long-distance walking experience” because of the issues involved with learning how your body reacts to the day-after-day effects of that type of exercise. And while some people certainly can simply jump on that trail and do great, others will definitely struggle and might even create a dangerous situation for themselves - I don’t want the OP to discover in which camp they fit while trying to cover 14 days of 20+km walking.

Hence my advice, which I still stand by: do NOT make the Norte your first long-distance walking experience. If you want it to be your first Camino, excellent! But definitely work on your walking stamina prior to showing up in Spain and tackling it.
 
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Wow, It is so nice and overwhelming to get so much feedback after one night's sleep.

Thank you all for your valuable information and advice. I am more encouraged to make the move and walk Primitivo, and I can feel my excitement☺️.

Here are some of the info that I missed to provide in my 1st post:

1. I am planning to start my First Camino in May 2024, probably Mid of May.

2. I wouldn't consider walking part of Camino Frances this time, as I want to do it in one go when I have 35+ days (I have ~20 days available for this trip)

3. I don't mind if I have to take a bit longer than average to finish the journey, my goal is to arrive SDC safely and enjoy the journey.

4. With the info I collected so far, I am thinking of walking 20+ km per day, and with that, I should arrive at SDC in about 16 days. I would consider taking a day to see Lugo if it is worth it.

5. I've been to Spain before (Madrid/Toledo and Barcelona), but my Spanish is nearly 0 except for very basic greetings and gracias.

6. I used to hike once a week on weekends but have stopped for a while. As I started to prepare for my first Camino, I started going hiking once a week carrying a backpack of ~15lb and normally hiking about 10+ km with a mixed up and downhill and flat section. I am planning to gradually increase it to 20 km+

I have some further questions to the veterans:

1. I prepared lighter hiking shoes originally for Camino Portuguese (as it is almost flat), but after watching a few YouTube videos, I think I probably should wear heavier hiking boots for Camino Primitivo. Any suggestions? I will be walking in May/June.

2. Is there a luggage delivery service available on Camino Primitivo Route? Just in case I need it for the tough days

3. Are there sections that I'd better make reservations ahead of time?

4. Reading blogs and watching videos online, seems no one mentioned jet lag. Should I need to plan a few lighter days at the beginning?


Thank you so much, everyone! Buen Camino!
 
I would consider taking a day to see Lugo if it is worth it.
Definitely! I did exactly that. Lots to see and do. Was really nice to have a rest day, too.

1/ No. In the past I always used to use hiking boots, however for Camino I started training in trail runners, they are now my preference.
2/ sorry don't know
3) Berducedo can be a pinch point, although I suspect that in May you'll be fine.
4) definitely a good idea, my suggestion is simply wandering Oviedo for a day. It's a lovely City, well worth taking a day to explore. It will get the kinks out and help you adjust/sleep better. Consider a cheap to moderate priced hotel near the centre to help you adjust. Then day one, just to Paladin ,(20km), very good Albergue and restaurant.

My Spanish is probably much the same as yours. Any attempt is better than no attempt

Training : it's more important to walk regularly than hike 15 to 20 k's once a week. By that I mean get out for a walk as often as possible, an hour a day - or at least three to four times a week - will make a load of difference to your Camino! By all means add the longer walk on the weekend to that. I've sent you a PM.
 
Hi, everyone. I am a newbie planning for my first Camino. and would like to get some advice from people who have experience with Camino Primitivo and Camino Portuguese.
I have 2~3 weeks to spend and my initial plan is to walk Camino Portuguese from Porto. During my research, I came across Camino Primitivo and I was immediately attracted to it and want to try it as my first Camino (beautiful scene + it is the "original way"). After reading more info online, I learned it is much more challenging than Portugal's and there are fewer services available and much fewer pilgrims. I am a bit concerned as I am going to travel solo and this is my first Camino, and the longest hike I had so far is about 25km per day(not very tough terrains). Here are some of my concerns and I am seeking advice from someone who had walked the Camino Primitivo in recent years.
1. it is safe to walk Primitivo alone?
2. what's the chance of getting lost?
3. It is said it normally takes ~ 14 days to finish it, and I don't mind if I have to take a bit longer but it seems on some days people have to walk at least 30+ km on tough terrain to get to the next accommodation. how many sections or days that people have to walk 20+km minimum with no shorter choice?
4. Any suggestions are welcome

Buen Camino!
1. I think it is as safe as any of the other routes. The only concern might be in terms of weather and the Hospitales option. Before setting out that day, you may want to check with locals as to advice on which route to take.

2. Chances of getting lost are low. This had some of the best signposted areas I've seen. But if you have any concerns at all, I'd recommend getting an app like Wise Pilgrim or Buen Camino. They will have a map showing the Camino route and also where you are. If you are ever in doubt, you can just look at the map and either set your mind at ease, confirming you are still on route, or see immediately how to get back onto the correct path.

3. I walked it in 14 days with no 30+ km days. I felt I could have easily walked it in 13 without noticeably more difficulty. Many people walk it in 12. If you are not taking the Hospitales route (recommended!!), I don't think there are any days where there is more than 20 km between accommodations. And even the Hospitales day is less than 25km.

4. I would recommend the detour to Bovéda after Lugo to see the mysterious ruins underneath the church.
 
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1. I prepared lighter hiking shoes originally for Camino Portuguese (as it is almost flat), but after watching a few YouTube videos, I think I probably should wear heavier hiking boots for Camino Primitivo. Any suggestions? I will be walking in May/June.

2. Is there a luggage delivery service available on Camino Primitivo Route? Just in case I need it for the tough days

3. Are there sections that I'd better make reservations ahead of time?

4. Reading blogs and watching videos online, seems no one mentioned jet lag. Should I need to plan a few lighter days at the beginning?
1. I walked in Hoka Challenger trail runners that had already seen me through the Caminos de Madrid and San Salvador and they were fine. I was walking in July.
2. No idea.
3. I made reservations for Samblismo, which was a very nice donativo albergue more or less where the Hospitales route branches off. That also shortened the Hospitales day a little bit. On that day, as it turns out, reservations weren't needed there because some folks who had made reservations didn't show up. :-( But I think making reservations there a day or two in advance would be recommended if that is where you want to stay.
4. I like starting to walk right away. On that Camino, I walked 20 km on the day my plane landed. Others react differently.
 
Hello, I have walked both caminos in the last 18 months. They are both safe to walk alone and easy to navigate and not get lost. The primetivo has a lot more elevation changes, but good services and special views. Lugo is a special place to visit. If you choose this route, you should be aware, when you meet up with the Frances, you may want to book ahead, as it will be busier. Trail runners are suitable for the primativo. Good luck and enjoy 😉
 
To me, Primitivo is the best, certainly better than Portuguese. Yes, less facilities but way more Camino spirit. We are 60yrs old and had no issues with the route or terrain (which is beautiful btw). Only somewhat mehh sector was Lugo to San Romao. Everything else is really nice. We didn’t do Hospitales, but Pola Allande, arrived on Asturias day which was cool. The route is well signposted, so little chance of getting lost. A few longish legs but not much over 25km.
1. Shoes are fine. I used Altra Lone Peaks.
2. Luggage service, Correos works perfectly.
3. Probably for a couple of places after Tineo. Depends on how you are structuring the walk and if you are going Hospitales or Pola.
4. If you have the time, stay an extra day in Oviedo and Lugo. And Santiago, leave some time to relax, wander, and don’t miss Pilgrims Mass, which is for you!

Buen Camino. Don’t worry. Whatever your choice, the first one is special. Warning - Camino can be an addiction. First one is rarely the last!
 
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Hi there! Buen Camino.

I started the Camino in Hoka boots, and then switched to Challengers at Lugo. But, by all that's holy, check yourself out on terrain before you go. I bought poles in Oviedo and used them A LOT until at least Ferreira. Seriously. Respect the terrain, if it's your first multi day hike.

Taxicamino (and I think one other, plus Correos' Paq Mochilla) do luggage transport along the route. I used Taxicamino all the way to the Frances, and then was handed off to Javier Mochilla Express, part of Jacotrans. If you use it, they'd prefer if you have a reservation at the place you're shipping it to. I think I'm the only one on the board who admitted to using the service...PM me if you want more.

The only times I got lost were leaving towns in the dark; other than that, well marked. In Asturias, unfortunately, most of the routes will go uphill. ;) Buen Camino's offline maps helped a lot, although pulling the phone out in the rain occasionally didn't work well.

Bring rain gear you can carry and live with. I had a remarkably dry Camino, and in 13 walking and one rest day, it still rained for parts or all of four days.

Berducedo tends to be a pinch point, so I'd think about walking 1-2 days, and then making a reservation for the day you know you will arrive. I saw people having to walk 5km or taxi to La Mesa, which was the next available albergue.

Consider a slow day in Oviedo, or a short one, particularly if you like old churches. And consider a short day or a rest day in Lugo...it's great.

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Hi, everyone. I am a newbie planning for my first Camino. and would like to get some advice from people who have experience with Camino Primitivo and Camino Portuguese.
I have 2~3 weeks to spend and my initial plan is to walk Camino Portuguese from Porto. During my research, I came across Camino Primitivo and I was immediately attracted to it and want to try it as my first Camino (beautiful scene + it is the "original way"). After reading more info online, I learned it is much more challenging than Portugal's and there are fewer services available and much fewer pilgrims. I am a bit concerned as I am going to travel solo and this is my first Camino, and the longest hike I had so far is about 25km per day(not very tough terrains). Here are some of my concerns and I am seeking advice from someone who had walked the Camino Primitivo in recent years.
1. it is safe to walk Primitivo alone?
2. what's the chance of getting lost?
3. It is said it normally takes ~ 14 days to finish it, and I don't mind if I have to take a bit longer but it seems on some days people have to walk at least 30+ km on tough terrain to get to the next accommodation. how many sections or days that people have to walk 20+km minimum with no shorter choice?
4. Any suggestions are welcome

Buen Camino!
Hello Pixel:

1. It is safe to walk the Primitivo alone. This is a well populated route and you will meet plenty of other Pilgrims.
2. The chances of getting lost are minimal. The route is well marked.
3. There are no days you have to walk 30+km's. I suggest you go to gronze.com and it will give you a detailed look at the route, topography and accommodation available.

This is a beautiful walk
 
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Hi everyone,

Thank you all for your kind messages and valuable advice. 👍
@Peterexpatkiwi
@David Tallan
@Vacajoe
@dbier
@jpflavin1
@Antonius Vaessen
@kamleman
@KariannNor
@Rick of Rick and Peg
@El Cascayal
@BombayBill
@Lowtide
@Gingerbaldy

It is amazing to see that many of you have traveled so many different Caminos Routes (while I am busy finding out where all these places you fellows talk about are located 😂).

The journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step. With so much good info you fellows provided, I will be busy reading, digesting, and at the same time, training for my first Camino in May.

Thanks again and Buen Camino!
 
You said almost everything I want to say except that I don't have a 13-day goal at this point :)
Thank you!
Hi Pixel,
I am going to change my return flight after reading the replies to your post as I am keen to spend a day at Lugo.
I stupidly only had 12 days to complete as my return flight left at 10:30 from Santiago. I am moving my return flight back 2 days so I can relax and enjoy the scenery and culture a bit more on route.
So thank you and the people that replied to your post.
 
Last edited:
Hi, everyone. I am a newbie planning for my first Camino. and would like to get some advice from people who have experience with Camino Primitivo and Camino Portuguese.
I have 2~3 weeks to spend and my initial plan is to walk Camino Portuguese from Porto. During my research, I came across Camino Primitivo and I was immediately attracted to it and want to try it as my first Camino (beautiful scene + it is the "original way"). After reading more info online, I learned it is much more challenging than Portugal's and there are fewer services available and much fewer pilgrims. I am a bit concerned as I am going to travel solo and this is my first Camino, and the longest hike I had so far is about 25km per day(not very tough terrains). Here are some of my concerns and I am seeking advice from someone who had walked the Camino Primitivo in recent years.
1. it is safe to walk Primitivo alone?
2. what's the chance of getting lost?
3. It is said it normally takes ~ 14 days to finish it, and I don't mind if I have to take a bit longer but it seems on some days people have to walk at least 30+ km on tough terrain to get to the next accommodation. how many sections or days that people have to walk 20+km minimum with no shorter choice?
4. Any suggestions are welcome

Buen Camino!
I have hiked both. With a backpack the Portuguese Coastal Camino was 11 days, for me. I did not hurry and stayed the coastal route (10 years ago). The Primitivo is a totally different Camino. I shipped my backpack with Camino Taxi and do not regret it. I was in my early 70's then (3 years ago). I took a rest day at Lugo, but I think I would take one earlier, too. It is so beautiful, and if you are not in a hurry, take your time.

It all depends on your fitness level.

Buen Camino
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Hi, everyone. I am a newbie planning for my first Camino. and would like to get some advice from people who have experience with Camino Primitivo and Camino Portuguese.
I have 2~3 weeks to spend and my initial plan is to walk Camino Portuguese from Porto. During my research, I came across Camino Primitivo and I was immediately attracted to it and want to try it as my first Camino (beautiful scene + it is the "original way"). After reading more info online, I learned it is much more challenging than Portugal's and there are fewer services available and much fewer pilgrims. I am a bit concerned as I am going to travel solo and this is my first Camino, and the longest hike I had so far is about 25km per day(not very tough terrains). Here are some of my concerns and I am seeking advice from someone who had walked the Camino Primitivo in recent years.
1. it is safe to walk Primitivo alone?
2. what's the chance of getting lost?
3. It is said it normally takes ~ 14 days to finish it, and I don't mind if I have to take a bit longer but it seems on some days people have to walk at least 30+ km on tough terrain to get to the next accommodation. how many sections or days that people have to walk 20+km minimum with no shorter choice?
4. Any suggestions are welcome

Buen Camino!
If you have a few weeks to prepare and enjoy walking alone sometimes, GO FOR IT!
Last June I did my first Camino and also chose the Primitivo. I was 62 yrs old in good shape, but I did train for 30 days before leaving - doing some longer hikes and included some hilly and rocky terrain, a day in the rain, and one weekend of two 4 hour hikes. I also did strength training including core and balance work.
I completed the Primitivo solo in 14 days with ease. It's a gorgeous walk and I was able to spend much time alone but never long enough to be lonely or nervous. I used an app to keep me on track, so I never got too far off track. I disagree that the signage is super easy to follow. But fellow pilgrims and residents are so friendly and helpful, I rarely needed the app.
 
The Primitivo was my first Camino in May 2019. I walked alone. It was not crowded but I met other Peregrinos including 3, who were also walking alone, and we have remained friends and went on to walk the Invierno together for different stages.
It is beautiful, it is green and mountainous. It is very safe and well marked. It is challenging and well worth it. Be prepared for weather and take a look at posts from others on this forum who have walked recently. Good Camino information on Gronze.com, Wise Pilgrim app, Buen Camino app. These last 2 have offline GPS that is most helpful. Buen Camino and travel light with the essentials.
Hi @El Cascayal, do you still remember what the weather was like in May when you were on Primitivo in 2019?
Do you think it is necessary to wear waterproof shoes? I prefer not to wear waterproof shoes to reduce the blister, but I read from somewhere else, and seems there can be a lot of rain in May (?)
Thanks
 
. I prepared lighter hiking shoes originally for Camino Portuguese (as it is almost flat), but after watching a few YouTube videos, I think I probably should wear heavier hiking boots for Camino Primitivo.
I wore hiking sandals on the Primitivo - the same as I did on the Norte, Francés, Salvador, and Portuguese routes.
Is there a luggage delivery service available on Camino Primitivo Route? Just in case I need it for the tough days
Yes, Correos, the Spanish post office.


For your training I would focus on walking every day if possible. It's good to get into the habit.
To avoid any problems with your feet - blisters, etc. I recommend setting aside at least 3 consecutive days to walk at least 10 miles/16 km. This will give you an idea of how your feet will fare with walking long distances day after day. As soon as you feel a hot spot on your feet STOP, and check them out. Put a Band-Aid or a piece of tape on the area to (hopefully) prevent a blister from forming.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
@pixel , some people on the forum wear gortex shoes (or boots), some wear waterproof socks, whilst others wear sandals, both with and without socks!.

Many - myself included - wear non - waterproof trail runners. There's a few that I've failed to mention, (army boots, jandals etc.... ) but those are the most common types of footwear.

My point is, that on the forum we are all individuals ( as indeed we are on Camino). We all wear what works best for us. And, naturally, think that what we wear is the best!

Personally whilst I used to wear GORE-TEX boots I would never wear Gore-Tex shoes on Camino regardless of the weather. Why? Because the good days normally outnumber the rainy days, and overall my feet are far more comfortable in the non-gortex, lightweight trail runners.

It doesn't matter if it's a backpack, your socks, underwear ( yes even that has been discussed on the forum) or your shoes - wear what works best for you.

There is one thing, and one thing only that is important:

COMFORT is KING 👑
 
I wore hiking sandals on the Primitivo - the same as I did on the Norte, Francés, Salvador, and Portuguese routes.

Yes, Correos, the Spanish post office.


For your training I would focus on walking every day if possible. It's good to get into the habit.
To avoid any problems with your feet - blisters, etc. I recommend setting aside at least 3 consecutive days to walk at least 10 miles/16 km. This will give you an idea of how your feet will fare with walking long distances day after day. As soon as you feel a hot spot on your feet STOP, and check them out. Put a Band-Aid or a piece of tape on the area to (hopefully) prevent a blister from forming.
Thank you for your message.
I wonder if you get small rocks or sand into your sandal? I haven't decided if I should bring a pair of sandals primarily for showering and it can also serve as backup in case my hiking shoes get wet due to rain, but this will add some extra weight.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
While it’s possible to complete the Primitivo as your first Camino, it really shouldn’t be your first long-distance hiking experience, especially solo. There are fewer options for shorter stages, fewer walkers who can help you out if something goes wrong, fewer places to stay, and so on. Given your lack of experience, the Camino Portuguese or the Frances may be more suited to you. You can walk a variety of distances and even if you walk by yourself, you’ll have plenty of company on the trail. Depending upon what month you walk, you can even have the trail to yourself most of the time. Know your limits and identify what you hope to get out of your Camino, then decide where to walk.
I would expect the weather on the Primitivo in May to be "like a box of chocolates". You never know what you are going to get.

I would take an almost worn out pair of waterproof hiking boots and throw them away once I got to Lugo. I would pack a pair of waterproof lowcut hiking boots. Columbia makes a great pair that are comfortable and more than adequate.

I always pre-tape the heels and the sides on my feet for potential blisters, and have never even come close to having one.

Don't worry about the suggested stages. Just do what you are comfortable with, and take hiking poles. You could ship your luggage daily just to Lugo, if the going gets too difficult.

The question I have is the first week of the Primitivo harder or easier than the first week out of Le Puy. Responses would be greatly appreciated.

Buen Camino
 
I would take an almost worn out pair of waterproof hiking boots and throw them away once I got to Lugo. I would pack a pair of waterproof lowcut hiking boots.

I don’t see any need for different shoes. I’ve walked the Primitivo several times and have always been fine in one pair of non-waterproof trail runners. The problem with waterproof shoes is that your feet are going to get wet in a big rain anyway, and then the waterproofing just keeps the water inside!


3. Are there sections that I'd better make reservations ahead of time?
You’ve gotten a lot of good advice already, but you might want to take a look at this fairly recent thread from another pilgrim walking the Primitivo as her first camino.

As far as reservations go, I think Berducedo is the one real Primitivo “bottleneck.” The albergue/hostal 6 kms further on in La Mesa is an option, but if you want to keep your kms down, that might be too far for you on the Hospitales day. (It’s 24 from Borres to Berducedo over the Hospitales route).

I haven't decided if I should bring a pair of sandals primarily for showering and it can also serve as backup in case my hiking shoes get wet

I always bring a pair of the lightest sandals Chacos makes. I both use them in the shower, and also to walk around town post-walking. Some use flip flops in the shower, but since I can’t walk around in flip flops and need something with arch support, the Chcaos wind up being the best option for me.

Good luck with your planning and buen camino!
 
I don’t see any need for different shoes. I’ve walked the Primitivo several times and have always been fine in one pair of non-waterproof trail runners. The problem with waterproof shoes is that your feet are going to get wet in a big rain anyway, and then the waterproofing just keeps the water inside!



You’ve gotten a lot of good advice already, but you might want to take a look at this fairly recent thread from another pilgrim walking the Primitivo as her first camino.

As far as reservations go, I think Berducedo is the one real Primitivo “bottleneck.” The albergue/hostal 6 kms further on in La Mesa is an option, but if you want to keep your kms down, that might be too far for you on the Hospitales day. (It’s 24 from Borres to Berducedo over the Hospitales route).



I always bring a pair of the lightest sandals Chacos makes. I both use them in the shower, and also to walk around town post-walking. Some use flip flops in the shower, but since I can’t walk around in flip flops and need something with arch support, the Chcaos wind up being the best option for me.

Good luck with your planning and buen camino!

I never got drenched with rain, so I can't comment on rain running into my boots, but I find that pretty much difficult to do.

I hiked the the Portuguese Coastal in May and used waterproof boots.

It had rained the previous weeks before we started and there was a lot of standing water. Even after hiking in the shallow streams, mud and mudpuddles, my feet stayed dry.

I would not hike anywhere in Spain in May without waterproof boots. Just my humble opinion, but I firmly suggest to not leave home without them.

But, check the weather forecast just before you depart and maybe that will help you decide.

I used Salomon's GTX and they are good for just about 400 miles, or so. Not the most comfortable, but my feet stayed dry.

Buen Camino
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Hi @El Cascayal, do you still remember what the weather was like in May when you were on Primitivo in 2019?
Do you think it is necessary to wear waterproof shoes? I prefer not to wear waterproof shoes to reduce the blister, but I read from somewhere else, and seems there can be a lot of rain in May (?)
Thanks
Yes, I remember. That month was rainy and muddy and glorious. I wear WP with WP pants. It was very cold so kept my feet dry and warm. Everyone has a different opinion regarding WP shoes. I get blisters when my feet and shoes are sloshing wet.
Buen Camino pixel! Let us know how it goes.
 
Passing on the wisdom and great advice I've had in my early preparations for the Primitivo - consider the Camino Verde after Lugo.
I know this is a totally personal decision, but I think that it’s the first few kms after Lugo along the river (which I missed) that are the magical parts. I wouldn’t say that I found the Verde alternative to be at a level of “mehh,” but I don’t find the official route to be “mehh” either.

The day from Friol to Sobrado (second day of the Verde) has at least 8 km along the side of the road after it joins the Norte, and the earlier part of that day is very similar to the countryside you will be finding on the official Primitivo route from Lugo to Melide. Eucalyptus forests primarily and a few hamlets, if memory serves.

On my next Primitivo, I hope to walk the Verde out of Lugo on the newly constructed wooden pathways along the river, and go from there to Santa Eulalia de Bóveda. From there I would go back to the official primitivo and continue on to Ferreira. I enjoyed Ferreira much more than Friol, but I am sorry I missed that first part of the Camiño Verde.

I am not trying to discourage people from walking the Verde, but just throwing out some other considerations. If your primary reason to walk the Verde is to prolong the merge with the Francés till after Melide, I have been told that there is a way to walk from Ferreira to Sobrado, which would also accomplish that prolongation of the non-Francés and not deposit you there till Arzua (at which point there is another alternative to keep you off till Lavacolla, but that’s for a different thread).
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Tell me more!
I am also curious about this area. Have found a lot of good information in here about the Verde route, but I miss a slightly more detailed map of marked trails around there, would appreciate it if someone has a link to such.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Tell me more!
I have never walked this way, but I had gotten all the info and was good to go. Then something happened, but I can’t remember what it was.

The owners of the albergue in Ponte Ferreira used to have a link on their web page that described the route, but the link is now dead (if you search ferreira and sobrado on the forum you will see all the discussion about this alternative). I have written to the “old owners” of Ferreira, who now own an albergue on the Francés, to see if they still have it somewhere on their computer. Google maps shows a walking route that goes by some waterfalls and a dolmen, and I have a vague memory that the route I was going to walk took me very close to a castle, but I can’t find it now!

I’ll get back to you if I hear from Juanma.

Edited to add— hold the presses, I found this.


If you are interested in doing this, I would write to the albergue for more info. Especially if you are going to take a detour to Santa Eulalia, having a reservation for a bed in prime seasaon would probably be a good idea.
 
Last edited:
I have never walked this way, but I had gotten all the info and was good to go. Then something happened, but I can’t remember what it was.

The owners of the albergue in Ponte Ferreira used to have a link on their web page that described the route, but the link is now dead (if you search ferreira and sobrado on the forum you will see all the discussion about this alternative). I have written to the “old owners” of Ferreira, who now own an albergue on the Francés, to see if they still have it somewhere on their computer. Google maps shows a walking route that goes by some waterfalls and a dolmen, and I have a vague memory that the route I was going to walk took me very close to a castle, but I can’t find it now!

I’ll get back to you if I hear from Juanma.

Edited to add— hold the presses, I found this.


If you are interested in doing this, I would write to the albergue for more info. Especially if you are going to take a detour to Santa Eulalia, having a reservation for a bed in prime seasaon would probably be a good idea.
Thank you so much 🙏
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I have never walked this way, but I had gotten all the info and was good to go. Then something happened, but I can’t remember what it was.

The owners of the albergue in Ponte Ferreira used to have a link on their web page that described the route, but the link is now dead (if you search ferreira and sobrado on the forum you will see all the discussion about this alternative). I have written to the “old owners” of Ferreira, who now own an albergue on the Francés, to see if they still have it somewhere on their computer. Google maps shows a walking route that goes by some waterfalls and a dolmen, and I have a vague memory that the route I was going to walk took me very close to a castle, but I can’t find it now!

I’ll get back to you if I hear from Juanma.

Edited to add— hold the presses, I found this.


If you are interested in doing this, I would write to the albergue for more info. Especially if you are going to take a detour to Santa Eulalia, having a reservation for a bed in prime seasaon would probably be a good idea.
Thank you so much. I must say the route you describe from Lugo (verde/Santa Eulalia/Ferreira/Sobrado) is really appealing, and then joing the CF at Aruza would be a good mix for the youths.
 
Yes, I remember. That month was rainy and muddy and glorious. I wear WP with WP pants. It was very cold so kept my feet dry and warm. Everyone has a different opinion regarding WP shoes. I get blisters when my feet and shoes are sloshing wet.
Buen Camino pixel! Let us know how it goes.
Thanks for the info.

What I found recently with my training is that , with a heavy backpack and moisture in my shoes, it is more likely to have blisters. Something to think about and prepare for the rain ...

Buen Camino!
 
Hello people. It was us who made the trail/track from Albergue Ponte Ferreira to Sobrado. (We had the albergue from 2018 till 2023). The track works quite well, but it is a quite lonely trail, and the first 21 km you don't have any facilities. You pass a few tiny villages (or groups of houses). There are no arrows or anything, but if your phone works well you can just follow the track. Most of it is on asphalt, but there is almost no traffic. A few pilgrims who stayed in our albergue did it and reported back. These reports were very different, from 'very nice and quiet' to 'terrible dog situations'. So you have to be a bit brave to do it. I also did the Verde from Lugo, and I think this trail is as nice as that one (if not nicer).
I would also recommend (later on) that you do the variation after Sobrado: in Boimorto there is an option to choose, and if you go to the right you end up on the camino Francés near the airport. This variant is officially waymarked (very well), so you don't need a track.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Hello people. It was us who made the trail/track from Albergue Ponte Ferreira to Sobrado. (We had the albergue from 2018 till 2023). The track works quite well, but it is a quite lonely trail, and the first 21 km you don't have any facilities. You pass a few tiny villages (or groups of houses). There are no arrows or anything, but if your phone works well you can just follow the track. Most of it is on asphalt, but there is almost no traffic. A few pilgrims who stayed in our albergue did it and reported back. These reports were very different, from 'very nice and quiet' to 'terrible dog situations'. So you have to be a bit brave to do it. I also did the Verde from Lugo, and I think this trail is as nice as that one (if not nicer).
I would also recommend (later on) that you do the variation after Sobrado: in Boimorto there is an option to choose, and if you go to the right you end up on the camino Francés near the airport. This variant is officially waymarked (very well), so you don't need a track.
Thank you Ria :) Very helpful to know for planning!
 
Hi, I'm new in this forum and I plan to do my 2nd Camino end of May (Ingles and then Primitivo). Last september I did the CF and was amazing, I have it in my heart. I would like just to know, if someone did in the past the Primitivo in this period, how could be the wheather in May and June. Thank you, Tiziano
 
I haven't done the Primitivo yet - but hopefully will be doing so in July. But May/June is late spring in these mountains so you should have cold nights and mornings and warm days, although there is always potential for the odd heatwave/snow nowadays also.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Hi, I'm new in this forum and I plan to do my 2nd Camino end of May (Ingles and then Primitivo). Last september I did the CF and was amazing, I have it in my heart. I would like just to know, if someone did in the past the Primitivo in this period, how could be the wheather in May and June. Thank you, Tiziano
If you are looking to do a week long Camino before the Primitivo, let me just put in a plug for the San Salvador as something to consider. :)
 

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