LIVE from the Camino My Camino Torres - November 2024

[alexwalker]

In general, something that today reminded me of is that the Camino is much more enjoyable when you take it slowly and relaxed and focus less on speed and hurrying somewhere.

A Danish poet (Piet Hein), once said, over a newly filled grave:

"So, this was where you were going, you hasty one?"...

 

[caminka]

That is extraordinary. It makes my sketchy hand written notes look like a pre-school project.

Have you done other routes?

Every route I walked and some that I haven't yet walked. They come in different formats. I used to write whole text (like the Viejo guide), print all the files and have them bound in a book (my 2012 guide weighted half a kilo!). but I don't have so much time anymore and now mostly do the itinerary spreadsheet-like files (like this year's Gebenennsis et co.). Every route is usually also accompanied by an accommodation list. You can find some of all types in my resources.

(yes, I know I have a problem and I don't care. . and now I am gonna stop cause I have usurped David's thread a bit too much.)

 

[caminka]

According to googly maps (2022 and younger), the blue tiles with a scallop and an arrow will accompany you all the way to Braga (at least, it's as far as I've got so far).

 

[peregrina2000]

Have you done other routes?

I know @caminka does not like to toot her own horn, so I’ll do it for her. She has a large number of Resources, all of which involve very detailed info of all sorts. Check out the list.

Oops, I see that she did mention her other caminos, but I’ll leave this post up because the link will take you to a list of all of the Resources she has posted.

 

[peregrina2000]

Then I went to see the nice, Romanesque church.

And I thought @jungleboy had cornered the market on beautiful pictures in Portugal with brilliant blue skies. This is a great picture!

So glad you are doing better, I don’t know what we would do with ourselves without your daily updates.

 

[David Tallan]

David, I figured this out for myself a long time ago and diligently stick with it.
I'm loving your pictures, including all of that wonderful blue sky you are having. Are the temps coinciding nicely with it?

Temps have been surprisingly warm. There was quite a cold snap in October. Those who followed my Hospitalero thread may recall an excursion with friends to a nearby pueblo canvelled due to snow at our destination. That made me second guess what I had brought for cold weather. "If it is this cold now," I thought, "what will it be like a month later further north?" So instead of sending my newly acquired University of Salamanca hoodie ahead to Santiago, I took it with me as an extra layer option.

Big mistake. Most of my walking has just been in a single layer (tee shirt).

 

[caminka]

I know @caminka does not like to toot her own horn, so I’ll do it for her. She has a large number of Resources, all of which involve very detailed info of all sorts. Check out the list.

Oops, I see that she did mention her other caminos, but I’ll leave this post up because the link will take you to a list of all of the Resources she has posted.

Sometimes I have withdrawals and it feels soo good when someone asks about my caminos. *insert angely smily*

 

[Charrito]

Research is an integral part of all my caminos and so many from this forum share their experiences or help in other ways. I just like to add to that in ways I can.

(we really need a blushing emoji, it took me a couple of hours to recover enough to post a coherent response : ) )

There is absolutely no need to blush, @caminka! This is an absolutely marvellous resource that you've put together, and it will be a great help for future pilgrims on the Torres. Over the years I've provided quite a lot of practical information on two of my favourite caminos, the Camino de Invierno and the Caminho da Geira e dos Arrieiros, but compared to you I'm a complete novice.

I reckon that Ivar should award you a prize for sharing all this invaluable information!

Thank you so much! Y Buen Camino!

 

[David Tallan]

David, I figured this out for myself a long time ago and diligently stick with it.
I'm loving your pictures,

Sometimes, we can know something well and still lose track of it. Then we need a refresher course.

 

[granpiscator]

Then I went to see the nice, Romanesque church. I could see the facade, but it was locked up tight.

Paulo Almeida has published that the largest image of the six found on the main facade, the one with a "zurrón"(I’m not sure of the correct term in English: ¿pilgrim's bag/satchel?) is the oldest sculptural representation of Saint James known in Portugal. This is the central figure of the three on the right.
It can be distinguished in your photograph.

 

[David Tallan]

Paulo Almeida has published that the largest image of the six found on the main facade, the one with a "zurrón"(I’m not sure of the correct term in English: ¿pilgrim's bag/satchel?) is the oldest sculptural representation of Saint James known in Portugal. This is the central figure of the three on the right.
It can be distinguished in your photograph.

The middle one here?

 

[David Tallan]

Tuesday 12 November 2024, Vila da Ponte - Beira Valente

It was quite a pleasant walk today. It started with a steady climb through a number of switchbacks heading towards the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Necessities, on top of a nearby mountain overlooking Vila da Ponte. Of course, the Camino route takes you there. Actually, it doesn't take you all the way there. It passes by just short of the top. So when I got to the intersection, I was faced with a choice: keep going, or keep climbing as I had been for another couple of switchbacks. I chose the third option: leave my backpack at the intersection and visit the Sanctuary and Miradouro without it. The view was really quite stupendous.

A little later, I stopped for a bathroom break at a cafe in one of the villages I passed through today. My sister, the doctor, has suggested I expand my diet from the BART + soup I've been trying to stick to, to something more substantial. Just avoid spicy foods, she says. Well, the cafe happened to have the first pasteis de nata I've seen since entering Portugal, so I had one of those.

There was a lot more pavement and cobblestones setts on the route today. The use of the setts has been expanding from just in the villages to also around the neighboring farms. Still not as prevalent as I remember from some parts of the Portugues, but I am seeing more of it.

Yesterday, and even more today, I've also been seeing more olive groves. At the start of the Torres, the agriculture seemed to centre more around livestock. Over the last few days, that has changed. There are a lot fewer farm animals. The focus is more on what you grow than what you raise.

When I got to Moimenta da Beira, I decided to stop in a pharmacy. I told him that the loperamide didn't seem to be doing anything and was there anything he could suggest? He strongly recommended sachets you take daily after a meal (lunch or dinner). I got him to recommend a local restaurant, a basement place as it turned out and went there for lunch: frango asado, rice, fries, and a slice of apple tart for dessert. I had a sachet (mixed with a little water) at the end of the meal. And I've gotta say. I have been starting to notice a significant difference. On the way out of Moimenta da Beira, I stopped at the supermarket to get something for supper. I knew that the albergue here in Beira Valente has a nice kitchen, but there are no other food options.

The last 4 km to Beira Valente were also quite pleasant. None of the sweeping vistas that had presented themselves at times earlier, but a nice country walk, more often than earlier off pavement or stones.

The albergue here is a nice looking albergue in an old schoolhouse (there is still a blackboard on the wall in the dorm - it was behind me when I took a photo of the room), with a fully appointed kitchen. It is a hands-off arrangement. You find the key (I was told the location be the previous pilgrim) and let yourself in. Then you stamp your credencial, fill in your registry page and leave the required amount "hidden" in the book (since there is a note telling you where to put the money, it is hardly hidden).

Since I got here it has just been a relaxing time. I may try to go to bed early and leave a little earlier tomorrow. It looks to be a bit of a longer, tougher, day.

Photos: view from the Miradouro, a couple of other expansive vistas, a walk through the woods, a cross in the wall, the albergue dorm room.

 

[peregrina2000]

I got him to recommend a local restaurant, a basement place as it turned out and went there for lunch: frango asado, rice, fries, and a slice of apple tart for dessert.

I think I first got a restaurant recommendation from the pharmacist in Bandeira on the Sanabrés. Since then, I have done that many times over and have never been disappointed. I have occasionally wondered why it would be that pharmacists would regularly have good restaurant recommendations— I don’t have a theory, but I have rock solid results! And I hope his pharmaceutical recommendations were as spot on as his restaurant suggestion!

The albergue had some locally made wine when I was there two years ago. Maybe not good for your stomach, unfortunately. And the key used to be in a much more complicated place than it is now, so be glad you didn’t have to go hunting for a buraco with a gancho.

Loving the memories - I have the same picture of the cross!

 

[jungleboy]

There was a lot more pavement and cobblestones setts on the route today. The use of the setts has been expanding from just in the villages to also around the neighboring farms. Still not as prevalent as I remember from some parts of the Portugues, but I am seeing more of it.

You are coming up to the heavily asphalted parts of the Torres in the next few days. Hopefully your toe is up for it!

 

[caminka]

There is absolutely no need to blush, @caminka! This is an absolutely marvellous resource that you've put together, and it will be a great help for future pilgrims on the Torres. Over the years I've provided quite a lot of practical information on two of my favourite caminos, the Camino de Invierno and the Caminho da Geira e dos Arrieiros, but compared to you I'm a complete novice.

I reckon that Ivar should award you a prize for sharing all this invaluable information!

Thank you so much! Y Buen Camino!

Thank you. Geira is one of the next on my list (the other is Olvidado) so I will be combing through your notes and comment on the forum.

David, are you continuing on the Geira? I am a bit bogged down with stuff for the next two weeks, but I could try and squeeze it in and see how far I can come before you catch up?

 

[unadara]

Hi David
I'm wondering about your foot and think you should see a Doctor, even though you talk to your sister. I walked for many days with One swollen foot (no injury) and found yes as I walked the pain eased and I accepted it. In the Meseta a volunteer Red Cross ambulance were helping pilgrims and I thought I would ask. They stuck a BIG needle in to the sole and drew out lots of Matter! turns out I had a blood infection and it would not have gone away, Many times we are told that taking pain medications can mask a true state of affairs. I do hope your foot heals and admire your fortitude but I think with the stomach issues now you need it sorted. Its so hard to stop once you are walking I know. (Camino Torres sounds great as did Salamanca volunteering).

 

[David Tallan]

Thank you. Geira is one of the next on my list (the other is Olvidado) so I will be combing through your notes and comment on the forum.

David, are you continuing on the Geira? I am a bit bogged down with stuff for the next two weeks, but I could try and squeeze it in and see how far I can come before you catch up?

Continuing on Geira is the plan.

 

[David Tallan]

Hi David
I'm wondering about your foot and think you should see a Doctor, even though you talk to your sister. I walked for many days with One swollen foot (no injury) and found yes as I walked the pain eased and I accepted it. In the Meseta a volunteer Red Cross ambulance were helping pilgrims and I thought I would ask. They stuck a BIG needle in to the sole and drew out lots of Matter! turns out I had a blood infection and it would not have gone away, Many times we are told that taking pain medications can mask a true state of affairs. I do hope your foot heals and admire your fortitude but I think with the stomach issues now you need it sorted. Its so hard to stop once you are walking I know. (Camino Torres sounds great as did Salamanca volunteering).

I accept that is a possibility. Certainly if it spreads or gets worse, I will look to see someone. But if it doesn't, and is still the same when my Camino is done, I think I am probably better off taking it to my own doctor, with whom I can communicate more easily.

 

[David Tallan]

Wednesday 13 November 2024 Beira Valente to Lamego

It was a long day today, 27.5 km over 8.5 hours (which did, to be fair, include a stop for lunch). I left at about 7:15 and arrived at about 3:45. There were plenty of climbs and descents (more descent than ascent, but still plenty of steep hills to climb). I think I managed okay. But tomorrow is going to be longer and tougher. I expect I will be able to make it, though.

It was also a cold day today, or colder than usual. I didn't take my puffy jacket off at all during the day, and in the early morning, I also put a spare pair of socks on my hands. My phone said it was 3° at that point. It also got quite windy. When I made my first cafe stop for second breakfast, they had a nice fire going in their woodburning stove. Fortunately, it was not also raining, at least, not until just as I was arriving at my destination. I think there is less chance of rain tomorrow and it is supposed to warm up a little bit.

With all of the ups and downs today, there were some spectacular views that reminded me most of the Salvador and Primitivo caminos I did last year. It is really hard to capture in a photo, though. It is so big that you want to switch to a wide angle lens to get more and more in the shot. But paradoxically, that just makes it look smaller. Sometimes it works better to zoom in.

In addition to things already mentioned (olive trees, chestnut trees, etc.) there were a lot of apple orchards today. A few at the end had apple trees like I am familiar with, shorter and wider. But many of the large orchards I walked through focused on a different way of shaping the apple tree, guiding the growth with poles and strings like a trellis and keeping them tall and very narrow and planted every evenly in very straight rows.

The first real location of note was Ucanha, where there was a fortified bridge (fortified with a tower on one end). Apparently this was built by the local abbot to ensure the successful collection of tolls. You can climb the tower, and I did.

My next stop was Santo António de Ferreirim, where there is a former Franciscan convent. Attached to the convent is another 12th century tower, which had belonged to the family of the nobles who sponsored the convent. When I saw it ahead of me in the distance I did a bit of a double take, worried that the route had circled me back to Ucanha. There were a lot of changes in direction on today's walk, and it was easy to lose track of which direction I was walking in. For €3 you can tour the church and see the 16th religious art commissioned for it. I spent a bit of time doing that. "No hurry" was my motto today.

I stopped again a couple of villages later, in Britiande, for lunch. I was alerted by @caminka's notes to the presence of restaurants in the village. Since they were a little off the route, I would have completely missed them otherwise. I picked a likely looking one to eat in. When the waitress came to the table, I was told it was pork cheek and mashed potatoes today, was that okay? I don't know if anything else was available (although I think I did see another diner having his pork cheeks with fries). I said it was okay and it was a substantial lunch. I opted for the fruit salad for dessert so that I would have some fruit or veg. It all came to €10, €9 for the lunch and €1 for the dessert. Come to think if it, the waitress may have just been telling me the daily special and there may have been other options. In any case, it worked out fine.

From there, it was walk the final leg into Lamego. I had booked in a place recommended by others, the Residencial Solar da Sé. It is right opposite the cathedral and I had been advised to ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the cathedral. Such a room was duly offered. When I got there, I could see that my request must have given them a chuckle. That entire side of the building is covered in scaffolding and netting.

I looked up what to see in Lamego. Besides the cathedral (of which I have a sort of a view) there is a diocesan museum and a castle. I looked up the closing times for those (6 for the castle and museum, 7 for the cathedral) and decided to have a bit of a rest before seeing things. Unfortunately, closing times did not exactly match what was advertised. The castle, it seems closes at 5. I got to walk around the castle, but with high winds and rain, I didn't want to stick around too long. The cistern part, which people had seemed quite impressed with, I was told was at another location and was already closed.

Then I went to the Museum. The sign outside said it was open until 6, but at 5:30, all the lights were out inside it. The cathedral at least had an open door. And there were a few people inside as well. But it, too, had almost all of the lights off. And it was clear that the tourist visit package was not on offer at this time.

So I came back to my room. It had been my intention to go out again for a supper, but when the time came I found I didn't really have the appetite or the will to gave the rain. So I just stayed inside and wrote this. Next I will probably have a shower and get ready for bed. I negotiated an early breakfast (included) at 7:30 tomorrow, because time will be of more importance. When I wrote the email address I was given for the albergue in Mesão Frio to ask for a bed tomorrow, I was told (by the Tourism Office who replied) that pilgrims are being housed with the bombeiros (volunteer fire fighters). I asked them to let the bombeiros know to expect me. I want to be sure to arrive tomorrow begore the Tourism Office closes, do they can tell me where to go and reassure me that I am expected.

Photos: scenic vista, tower fortifying the bridge, another scenic vista, convent church (does anyone have a clue how that balcony on the right was to be used?), view of my balcony and the cathedral, inside the cathedral 1.5 hours before closing (it was actually much darker than that, the camera automatically compensates).
Note: back to thumbnails

 

[chinacat]

Lovely vistas, David, and they don’t look small at all - they look huge!

I love the way you still have the energy - and the will (!) - to climb towers and hills

 

[Peter Nordberg]

It’s a highlight of my day to read your postings. Glad it seems your foot and stomach issues are better.

 

[David Tallan]

Thursday 14 November 2024, Lamego to Mesão Frio

Today was like yesterday, but more so. More distance, more and steeper hills, even more stunning scenery.

I went to bed early yesterday and got up early. I headed down for breakfast st 7:30, when I was told it would be available and had a nice breakfast. Not a buffet, to be sure, but reasonable, more than a token tiny amount. I hit the road just after quarter to 8.

The Camino route was well marked leaving Lamego, much better marked than is typical within a city. It was, of course, uphill on the way out.

At one point, shortly before Sande, I got the Wikiloc alert that I was leaving the trail. I went back and checked. Sure enough, I had gone straight ahead when the GPS tracks turned sharply left. Had I somehow missed the arrow? No, there it was - pointing straight ahead on the route I had taken. I don't know where that arrow would have taken me, because I put my faith in Luis' tracks and followed them. The other road was going in complete different direction and I didn't see how the two could join up.

Soon after that, I was on a narrow overgrown path between two stone walls headed steeply down when I saw, for the first time on this Camino, both blue and yellow arrows. They were pointing in opposite directions. Surprisingly, I was headed in the direction of the blue arrow (to Fatima) and the yellow arrow (to Santiago) was pointed back the way I had come from. A little later, on a different section of the trail, I saw the same to arrows. This time I was properly following the yellow arrow.

It was around this time that I saw in the distance, in one of the sweeping vistas that characterized the day, one of those huge highway overpass the cross valleys without dipping into them. Of course, it was inevitable that I would walk under that overpass. And later look down on it from a distance on the other side.

At about 9:45 I got to Valdigem, which is on both the Camino Portugues Interior and the Torres. There is a bar not too far from the Camino route but, while the door was open, it was empty and deserted, and it didn't look like there was anything to eat there. Do I gave up on it and returned to the Camino.

At about 11, I arrived at Peso da Régua, where I stopped for about 20 minutes for second breakfast. The next section of the walk was a nice riverside stroll along the Douro (the same river that passes through Porto). Then, as the route turns away from the Douro, was the first brutal, steep uphill climb. I paused at the top for some chocolate and water.

At this point I was just over half way there (16.79/29.38km). But the restaurant of it was much like what came before, climbing and descending, sometimes steeply, amidst beautiful sweeping views.

What else to say about the day. In addition to what we've talked about before, there were starting to be more and more orange trees. Once, I hit the Douro Valley, vineyards started to predominate. Wherever I went there were plenty of dogs who wanted to let me know that they had noticed me and weren't sure of my intentions.

When I finally got to Mesão Frio, it was about 4 pm. I had walked most of the time between sunrise and sunset (especially in the mountains where it takes the sun longer to rise into view and it drops behind the mountains quicker). First stop was the tourist office for a stamp and directions to the bombeiros. They seemed pretty busy with some sort of construction, but one was sent to guide me to the dorm (which I have to myself) and i was left to my devices. After a rest I went out to get a bite to eat and buy a few groceries. Then it was back to the bombeiros, where I spent some time in the social room (where the previous pilgrim had successfully socialized with some of the bombeiros) but no one showed up, so eventually i just went back to the dorm and wrote this.

Photos: view with the overpass; after going under the overpass, crossed over this bridge; starting to see more of these tile houses I remember from my Camino Portugues; bridges over the Douro in Peso da Régua; view after that steep climb from the riverside; more typical views from the day's walk.

 

[chinacat]

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/attachments/20241114_203850-webp.180782/

I want to live here.
(David’s second photograph)

 

[peregrina2000]

The Douro Valley is one of my favorite places. I have been there many times as a tourist in a car, but walking through it (even though it was a LOT of asphalt) was something else. It’s beautiful in any season.

That little loop through the canyon (the picture where @chinacat wants to live) was so unbelievable - this little enclave with incredibly difficult access just a few kms from busy roads and tons of people.

Harvest is done, but I wonder if you have seen people in the fields? I was surprised to see that all the picking was done by hand, and most of the people I saw working were Portuguese. I think @amsimoes told me that all Douro grapes are required to be picked by hand, but my memory is fuzzy.

 

[David Tallan]

The Douro Valley is one of my favorite places. I have been there many times as a tourist in a car, but walking through it (even though it was a LOT of asphalt) was something else. It’s beautiful in any season.

That little loop through the canyon (the picture where @chinacat wants to live) was so unbelievable - this little enclave with incredibly difficult access just a few kms from busy roads and tons of people.

Harvest is done, but I wonder if you have seen people in the fields? I was surprised to see that all the picking was done by hand, and most of the people I saw working were Portuguese. I think @amsimoes told me that all Douro grapes are required to be picked by hand, but my memory is fuzzy.

I have seen a few people in the fields, picking grapes and olives, but not many.

 

[jungleboy]

That was one of my favourite days on any camino. Here's a photo selection from the stage:

View this content on Instagram

View this content on Instagram

 

[Camino Chrissy]

That was one of my favourite days on any camino. Here's a photo selection from the stage:

@jungleboy, I am not on Instagram, but was allowed to view quite a few of your pictures before I was shut out.
You are a marvelous photographer and I always enjoy the content you share, as well.
P.S. I hope your temporary desk job is going well and that your employer realizes what a "find" he has in you.

 

[jungleboy]

@jungleboy, I am not on Instagram, but was allowed to view quite a few of your pictures before I was shut out.
You are a marvelous photographer and I always enjoy the content you share, as well.
P.S. I hope your temporary desk job is going well and that your employer realizes what a "find" he has in you.

Thank you Chrissy, you are always so kind. I don't want to hijack David's thread, so I will send you a DM with an update on the desk job when I get a chance. For now, on with the Torres!

 

[David Tallan]

Friday 15 November 2024, Mesão Frio to Amarante.

I was up by 6:00 and out by 7:00. I was unsure what to do with the bedding, so I just left it as it was. I did leave a bar of Soma Old School chocolate on the bed as a gift for whoever had to deal with it.

Today's walk wasn't quite as spectacular as yesterday, or quite as long, but the scenery was still nothing to sneeze at. There weren't as many hills, but there was one huge one that dominated the day. After that, with the occasional hiccup, it was all downhill, and mostly not too steep at downhill.

The last couple of days, villages have gotten more numerous. Often, where one village ends, the next begins. And with that, the soundtrack of my Camino has changed a bit. Much of my walking, these days, is accompanied by the barking of dogs. Perhaps they just want attention. Perhaps they aren't too sure of me and my intentions. But they definitely want me to know that they are there.

Something I saw for the first time today, and have seen again and again since that first one, is horreos like the ones in Galicia for storing feed corn.

Like I said, I started around 7 and I stopped at about 10 for second breakfast. Then I had that big hill deal with. I was on the other side of the hill on the way down at noon when it was time to stop for lunch. That is something that has been different on this Camino than on any of my previous Caminos. The idea of stopping for a substantial lunch and then continuing walking into the afternoon. On previous Caminos, either my main meal would be an evening meal, or I would arrive at my destination and eat my main mid-day meal then. But (a) I've been walking later and longer on this Camino and (b) the Spanish mid-day meal seems a little later than the Portuguese one.

After lunch, it was about another hour and a half walking until I made it to Amarante and checked into my centrally located hotel (Des Arts Guest House). They do have dorm rooms, but after last night I was ready to pay a small amount more to upgrade to a private room, which I am very happy with. Then it was immediately over to the church and local art gallery for some sightseeing, and a bit around town (had to see some street art!) before returning to the hotel for a rest. There place has a nice kitchen for guest use, and I wasn't sure if I wanted to go to a supermarket and get something to cook or heat up or to eat out for supper. The nearest supermarket was a but further than I wanted to go, so I ended up going to a take out churrasqueira and bringing ready to eat food back to the kitchen.

Then I was done for the day. The plan is to leave at 7 or so tomorrow, too. I will be walking a similar distance, but the next day should be a really short one.

Photos: horreo; typical views of the day; yard decoration; terraced fields; hill to climb of the day; cascades; church; street art

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I think your views have still been beautiful; def nothing to sneeze at. There doesn't need to be gorgeous mountains. Your sweeping views still have lots of texture, and plenty of green foliage, even for November.
There once was a thread started asking for pics of "quirky" things along the way. Your "lady in white" in the garden would be a perfect addition to that thread. Also, the street art picture is outstanding! And who doesn't like a beautiful church.