Trish K
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF Nov/Dec (2017)
Camino Norte (2019)
Camino Primitivo (2019)
Camino Portuguese (2020)
I am 3 days in on the Camino Invierno and thought I’d post a couple of thoughts for those who may be considering this Camino in the coming winter months. I won’t go into detail about the trail/landscape as other threads have covered that - this is more practicalities.
I started on Thursday from Ponferrada to Las Medulas where, luckily, I’d had a good breakfast in a cafe accross from the albergue, before setting off. I say luckily because despite passing through at least 4 villages (including Borrones) where there were cafes situated, not a single cafe or bar was open. I was unlucky with the weather - it poured with rain from start to finish. I was glad to have booked into Las Medulio hotel. The rooms were warm and I was able to get all of my kit dry overnight. My room also had a bath (bliss - bring your own plug!). The only negative was that the kitchen was closed from 2:30pm to 8pm - I’d arrived at 2:50pm. They had crisps and peanuts so made do with that. When I went down for dinner they said the kitchen wouldn’t open until 8:30pm. There was not a lot of choice for a veggie but they did me some egg & chips with cheese. I didn’t venture further as it was still pouring with rain. So Note to all - bring provisions with you from Ponferrada.
Day 2 - Las Medulas to O Barco and albergue Xagoaza.
I needed to leave early as another long day but the hotel didn’t open until 9.00am - so no breakfast there. I thought I’d find a cafe open in Las Medulas, but at 7:45am still nothing was open. The sun was shining today, so much more enjoyable. A couple of cafes open in Puente de Domingo Florez and had a lovely lunch in Sobradelo in Bar Museo. The other bars were closed but there is also a small Spar here, which was open. It’s a long stretch and it was after 4pm when I arrived in O Barco. I found a supermarket to buy provisions for dinner as I was staying in the albergue Xagoaza - a further 3.5km out of town. It’s not only out of town, it’s also up a steep hill! Not nice on already tired legs! I’d called ahead so they knew I was coming but it looked very closed up when I arrived. I phoned them and was told the door was open and to just go in. I had the whole place to myself but no heat or hot water. No kettle but at least there’s a microwave and hob. Also, all the beds had blankets so once in my sleeping bag with a blanket pulled over me, I was snug enough. NB: about 2/3rds of the way up I saw a yellow arrow pointing down a narrow track. No idea where that takes you but it’s not to the albergue! Stay on the road.
Day 3 - Xagoaza to A Rua. A nice short day so I decided to return into O Barco for a nice breakfast before setting off. You can take a shorter route without backtracking all the way into town. I did think that walking back down the hill if the weather was snowy or icy could be challenging. Not really any options for food or drink on this stage but it’s only around 13km. I’m staying in hostel O’Pillabán tonight, which is lovely. (I booked ahead). A Rua has several bars and cafes and a big supermarket. Tomorrows route had no option for food stops so stock up here.
I started on Thursday from Ponferrada to Las Medulas where, luckily, I’d had a good breakfast in a cafe accross from the albergue, before setting off. I say luckily because despite passing through at least 4 villages (including Borrones) where there were cafes situated, not a single cafe or bar was open. I was unlucky with the weather - it poured with rain from start to finish. I was glad to have booked into Las Medulio hotel. The rooms were warm and I was able to get all of my kit dry overnight. My room also had a bath (bliss - bring your own plug!). The only negative was that the kitchen was closed from 2:30pm to 8pm - I’d arrived at 2:50pm. They had crisps and peanuts so made do with that. When I went down for dinner they said the kitchen wouldn’t open until 8:30pm. There was not a lot of choice for a veggie but they did me some egg & chips with cheese. I didn’t venture further as it was still pouring with rain. So Note to all - bring provisions with you from Ponferrada.
Day 2 - Las Medulas to O Barco and albergue Xagoaza.
I needed to leave early as another long day but the hotel didn’t open until 9.00am - so no breakfast there. I thought I’d find a cafe open in Las Medulas, but at 7:45am still nothing was open. The sun was shining today, so much more enjoyable. A couple of cafes open in Puente de Domingo Florez and had a lovely lunch in Sobradelo in Bar Museo. The other bars were closed but there is also a small Spar here, which was open. It’s a long stretch and it was after 4pm when I arrived in O Barco. I found a supermarket to buy provisions for dinner as I was staying in the albergue Xagoaza - a further 3.5km out of town. It’s not only out of town, it’s also up a steep hill! Not nice on already tired legs! I’d called ahead so they knew I was coming but it looked very closed up when I arrived. I phoned them and was told the door was open and to just go in. I had the whole place to myself but no heat or hot water. No kettle but at least there’s a microwave and hob. Also, all the beds had blankets so once in my sleeping bag with a blanket pulled over me, I was snug enough. NB: about 2/3rds of the way up I saw a yellow arrow pointing down a narrow track. No idea where that takes you but it’s not to the albergue! Stay on the road.
Day 3 - Xagoaza to A Rua. A nice short day so I decided to return into O Barco for a nice breakfast before setting off. You can take a shorter route without backtracking all the way into town. I did think that walking back down the hill if the weather was snowy or icy could be challenging. Not really any options for food or drink on this stage but it’s only around 13km. I’m staying in hostel O’Pillabán tonight, which is lovely. (I booked ahead). A Rua has several bars and cafes and a big supermarket. Tomorrows route had no option for food stops so stock up here.