LIVE from the Camino Live from Camino Frances

[Nix]

General update on CF. I started from Pamplona June 14 and now in Carrion. There are pilgrims about but not many and I have the pleasure of being mostly alone for large sections of each stage.
Many of the cafe and bars in smaller villages are shut and Sundays especially you may find taking a picnic with you a good idea.
Municipals and donativo monastery are now open in many villages and towns although this is not always reflected on gronze or other lists.
Wearing masks is still usual in villages and towns and always inside.
Always beds available in albergues.
I am a 52yr old solo female walking my first Camino, if I can do it so can you. I am having a fabulous time and can highly recommend you all seriously start planning yours.

 

[mspath]

Nix,
Thank you for sharing your daily report. It is a pleasure to read current info that is first-hand and upbeat.
Please do continue to write when you can.

Tomorrow if you are going to Calzadilla de la Cueza be sure to carry water. There are no bars along the way from Carrion.

Carpe diem and Buen camino

 

[Luka]

What about the pilgrim crowd? Is it still mostly Spanish, or getting more international now?

 

[Nix]

I am walking with a German girl and American man most days but there are many French and Spanish here as you would expect.

 

[Lexicos]

Lucky you Nix! I would start planning if we had some idea when the government was going to let us out. It’s not looking great at the moment. Could be another nine to twelve months before we can get anywhere near the Camino, any Camino. So, reading your updates is great. Gives us some idea of what to expect when we do get there! Enjoy your walk you lucky duck. It’s a lovely route to say the least and arriving in Santiago is a real big special wonderful buzz.

 

[uku]

General update on CF. I started from Pamplona June 14 and now in Carrion. There are pilgrims about but not many and I have the pleasure of being mostly alone for large sections of each stage.
Many of the cafe and bars in smaller villages are shut and Sundays especially you may find taking a picnic with you a good idea.
Municipals and donativo monastery are now open in many villages and towns although this is not always reflected on gronze or other lists.
Wearing masks is still usual in villages and towns and always inside.
Always beds available in albergues.
I am a 52yr old solo female walking my first Camino, if I can do it so can you. I am having a fabulous time and can highly recommend you all seriously start planning yours.

Similar impressions from the 2nd half of the CF: Started in Sahagún on 6th June, arrived SdC 23rd June. Still mostly Spanish pilgrims, some French and Italians. Not many others.

We used mostly pre-booked rooms, enough are available. Many albergues looked closed, but we did not actually check. Generally no real problems in finding accommodation and meals.

Very different numbers of pilgrims on different sections, on some days we were almost alone, especially in Galicia; but it was relatively busy around León. The last 3-4 days into SdC were almost crowded!

Praza do Obradoiro was not really crowded but pleasantly alive at all hours of the day, quite a few pilgrims, many groups of Spanish tourists and local people. Very relaxed and joyous atmosphere.

The rule to wear masks outdoors ended in Spain on 26th, just after we left, so I can't tell what people are actually doing now. Before that, even in villages, people wore masks in the street.

 

[BobMcGhee]

Thank you for your updates, about 9 weeks to go before I follow in your footsteps. Also good to hear Albergues and cafes are beginning to open up. I suspect there may still be a good number of bocadillo as standbys en-route in September.
Buen Camino
Bob

 

[Tony Bobcat]

General update on CF. I started from Pamplona June 14 and now in Carrion. There are pilgrims about but not many and I have the pleasure of being mostly alone for large sections of each stage.
Many of the cafe and bars in smaller villages are shut and Sundays especially you may find taking a picnic with you a good idea.
Municipals and donativo monastery are now open in many villages and towns although this is not always reflected on gronze or other lists.
Wearing masks is still usual in villages and towns and always inside.
Always beds available in albergues.
I am a 52yr old solo female walking my first Camino, if I can do it so can you. I am having a fabulous time and can highly recommend you all seriously start planning yours.

Thanks for the update, Buen Camino

 

[palmah]

Buen Camino! Thank you for keeping us updated!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Thank you and Buen Camino!

 

[Airfix]

Hi Nix, thanks for the update. We are also from UK and hope to start Portuguese Camino in September. How was the journey/flight? Did you have the tests?
Thanks again.
Airfix

 

[Nix]

Hi Nix, thanks for the update. We are also from UK and hope to start Portuguese Camino in September. How was the journey/flight? Did you have the tests?
Thanks again.
Airfix

I did not need a test at that time to fly into Spain but had my jabs proof just in case. Airports checked temperature and I went through several different queues to ask me about symptoms throughout the airports.

 

[Nix]

Now in Mansilla and Leon tomorrow. Many people still wearing masks outside but not all. Long stretches without water or food, no temporary vans or oasis open at the moment.
Walking mostly alone all day which is wonderful and meeting up with Pilgrims for dinner and beer. Life is good. Locals are very happy to see us and we get honks from horns and waves from passing cars and trucks.
Is it possible to stay here forever?......

 

[theclaireperson]

Now in Mansilla and Leon tomorrow. Many people still wearing masks outside but not all. Long stretches without water or food, no temporary vans or oasis open at the moment.
Walking mostly alone all day which is wonderful and meeting up with Pilgrims for dinner and beer. Life is good. Locals are very happy to see us and we get honks from horns and waves from passing cars and trucks.
Is it possible to stay here forever?......

Are the albergues still hosting communal meals or are pilgrims just meeting at bars/restaurants? Buen camino!

 

[donalomahony]

Now in Mansilla and Leon tomorrow. Many people still wearing masks outside but not all. Long stretches without water or food, no temporary vans or oasis open at the moment.
Walking mostly alone all day which is wonderful and meeting up with Pilgrims for dinner and beer. Life is good. Locals are very happy to see us and we get honks from horns and waves from passing cars and trucks.
Is it possible to stay here forever?......

Thanks, enjoying any live update from any Camino. Looking forward to your report from Leon!

 

[Nix]

Are the albergues still hosting communal meals or are pilgrims just meeting at bars/restaurants? Buen camino!

Communal meals are still happening everywhere and most restaurants are offering a pilgrim menu too although other pilgrims have commented that prices have risen.

 

[Nix]

Lovely walk into Leon which is my new favourite city, so majestic and interesting on a grand scale.
Walked with Californian lady and two Koreans today, feels like the way is getting a little busier.
Still not booking ahead much unless I intend to stop in a smaller village and always plenty of spaces left.
Still evidence all around of closed bars and albergue but you just go somewhere else. It's all good

 

[Nix]

Made it to Astorga, WOW! Make sure you take the alternative paths as the direct route by the road is not nice, well worth the extra km.
Municipal open, no problem getting a bed even though we took our time and arrived at 4pm.
Many more pilgrims started at Leon so getting busier with mostly Spanish walking for the weekend or just a week.
Uphill for a while now, the views today we're stunning and I think they will just get better.
Other pilgrims have texted me to say Galicia is busy, book ahead, but I think this is always the case from Sarria onwards.
Plenty of lovely cafe and open albergue on the way.

 

[Ivica.B]

Hi Nix,
how you're handling hot weather those days? Are you starting (very) early in the morning (in the night)?
We will be starting from SJPDP at July 24....

Buen Camino fellow Pellegrino

 

[Nix]

Hi Nix,
how you're handling hot weather those days? Are you starting (very) early in the morning (in the night)?
We will be starting from SJPDP at July 24....

Buen Camino fellow Pellegrino

I am from Lancaster UK and we don't get much sun up north, so I cope with the heat by starting walking at first light which is around 6am. This means I get a stunning sunrise every day but I am always finished walking by 1pm ish which I believe is Beer o'clock.

 

[Nix]

Now in Molinesca. A beautiful climb up from the lovely Rabanal where we went to hear the Gregorian chanting.
Warning, the climb up is lovely but the scramble down is brutal. Plan to stay closer as it is a hard stage.
Albergues in town have places, no problems and many cafe and bars are open.
Going swimming in the river now, see you later.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

This is lovely. Makes me want to dig out my pack and just go. Are you finding that locals are nervous to have outsiders due to the pandemic? And what’s the situation on mask wearing in the albergues?

 

[Nix]

This is lovely. Makes me want to dig out my pack and just go. Are you finding that locals are nervous to have outsiders due to the pandemic? And what’s the situation on mask wearing in the albergues?

Locals are not nervous but pleased to interact with us. We have so many smiles and Buen Camino from people everywhere.
Masks in albergues are usually worn in common areas but not when you are in your bunks or eating/drinking.

 

[didi2L]

Locals are not nervous but pleased to interact with us. We have so many smiles and Buen Camino from people everywhere.
Masks in albergues are usually worn in common areas but not when you are in your bunks or eating/drinking.

Great updates with good info, thanks. I'm 53 and starting this weekend on my first Camino. Looking forward to being there!

 

[didi2L]

General update on CF. I started from Pamplona June 14 and now in Carrion. There are pilgrims about but not many and I have the pleasure of being mostly alone for large sections of each stage.
Many of the cafe and bars in smaller villages are shut and Sundays especially you may find taking a picnic with you a good idea.
Municipals and donativo monastery are now open in many villages and towns although this is not always reflected on gronze or other lists.
Wearing masks is still usual in villages and towns and always inside.
Always beds available in albergues.
I am a 52yr old solo female walking my first Camino, if I can do it so can you. I am having a fabulous time and can highly recommend you all seriously start planning yours.

Hi Nix,
My apologies for being a bit off your topic but I could really use some input if you don't mind. We arrive in Pamplona this weekend to begin walking and are struggling with a few packing items. Due to volume we are really questioning bring sleeping bags and a mid-weight jackets. We've read threads stating the pros and cons and still can't figure it out. So, first question, is it a good idea to have a sleeping bag (we also have liners)? Second question, is a mid-weight jacket necessary like high altitudes and early mornings? (We have rain ponchos and layers of clothing.) We live in Luxembourg and we are still waiting for summer weather. Really appreciate some help!

 

[Nix]

Hi Nix,
My apologies for being a bit off your topic but I could really use some input if you don't mind. We arrive in Pamplona this weekend to begin walking and are struggling with a few packing items. Due to volume we are really questioning bring sleeping bags and a mid-weight jackets. We've read threads stating the pros and cons and still can't figure it out. So, first question, is it a good idea to have a sleeping bag (we also have liners)? Second question, is a mid-weight jacket necessary like high altitudes and early mornings? (We have rain ponchos and layers of clothing.) We live in Luxembourg and we are still waiting for summer weather. Really appreciate some help!

Hi, I have a sleeping bag liner and comfy clothes for bed rather than a full sleeping bag. There are very few Albergues that provide blankets at the moment so if you know that you get cold at night, bring a full bag.
I bought a lightweight alpine jacket and have used it only twice so far, and only for a short time. You do not need one walking, just if you sit out in the garden in evenings or go for late strolls. A fleece jumper would have worked just as well.
My advice is to pack as light as possible, Spain has excellent shops if you change your mind.
Buen Camino

 

[didi2L]

Hi, I have a sleeping bag liner and comfy clothes for bed rather than a full sleeping bag. There are very few Albergues that provide blankets at the moment so if you know that you get cold at night, bring a full bag.
I bought a lightweight alpine jacket and have used it only twice so far, and only for a short time. You do not need one walking, just if you sit out in the garden in evenings or go for late strolls. A fleece jumper would have worked just as well.
My advice is to pack as light as possible, Spain has excellent shops if you change your mind.
Buen Camino

That is super helpful, thank you so much!

 

[mickcope]

Thank you for your updates, about 9 weeks to go before I follow in your footsteps. Also good to hear Albergues and cafes are beginning to open up. I suspect there may still be a good number of bocadillo as standbys en-route in September.
Buen Camino
Bob

Fingers crossed I start 15 aug Bob

 

[Nix]

From the beautiful Molinaseca to the lovely Cacabelos on Tuesday. The municipal was closed even though some lists say it is open, no problem as another albergue close was open and lovely. Fab pilgrims meal at Hostel Siglo XIX.
Then on to Vega de Valcarce where we stayed in El Paso albergue and for the first time all beds were taken and pilgrims were turned away to another in the village. Maybe the way is getting busier again.
Today we tackled the difficult but incredible climb to Fonfria with lunch in O Cerebo, don't miss going in to the lovely church there. Views are stunning everywhere you look today. Don't rush this stage.
Life is amazing, the Camino proves this.

 

[Nix]

Fonfria to Samos yesterday with a night in the monestary. Only 4 pilgrims here last night, plenty of beds but no communal meal. Town is beautiful so no problem finding food.
Short day walking to Sarria, again no problems finding beds. Some of us went to the municipal and some to the donativo and neither were full that night.
Wearing masks in towns is still usual for locals even though it is not law.
In some albergue we are checked for temperature, rucksacks and boots sprayed and/or given bags for our boots. In others you just get the lovely smile and welcome. It's all good.

 

[peregrina2000]

This current information is so helpful for those who are behind you, and causes much yearning and wishing for those of us who are not in your shoes! Thanks for posting it.

Wearing masks in towns is still usual for locals even though it is not law.

Just a slight caveat here, if in fact the rules are still the same as they were on June 26 when Spain changed its mask requirements.

As written, the rules require you to wear a mask outdoors anywhere where you cannot maintain 1.5 meters of distance. In most urban centers, you would not be able to maintain that kind of distance between you and the next person. I think many people have forgotten about the 1.5 m distance part and have just torn off their masks. Not what they should be doing if they want to follow the rules.

The good news is that people can put those masks away when walking most of the camino!

 

[Nix]

I was warned about the huge influx of people at Sarria, but had not expected hundreds of new walkers.
A different vibe altogether now as we went first to Portomarin which has a lovely town and municipal hostel. Then on to Palas De Rei which sounds like it should be lovely......
Still no problems getting beds and there are far more places open throughout the day.
A different vibe with so many on the road, but just as good. New faces but also finding friends we had not seen for weeks too.

Weather has been cool and rainy, so I was in heaven.

 

[didi2L]

I was warned about the huge influx of people at Sarria, but had not expected hundreds of new walkers.
A different vibe altogether now as we went first to Portomarin which has a lovely town and municipal hostel. Then on to Palas De Rei which sounds like it should be lovely......
Still no problems getting beds and there are far more places open throughout the day.
A different vibe with so many on the road, but just as good. New faces but also finding friends we had not seen for weeks too.

Weather has been cool and rainy, so I was in heaven.

Thank you, good info! We're behind you in Estella and have had a bit of a challenge finding beds. We've been reserving the day before but only after contacting several to find open places and/or availability. The weather was lovely back here too and such a relief after yesterday's 36°C!

 

[Luka]

There seems to be big differences along the way regarding the level of saturation. I walked in Navarra last week and also noticed that most albergues were fully booked.

 

[Nix]

Walking up and down through mainly woodlands for the past 2 days. Stayed in a fab albergue in ribadiso yesterday which has an icy outdoor foot spa, just turned up and there were plenty of beds there but a friend walking behind checked on booking.com and it said it was full. Don't always assume Albergues are full just because booking.com have run out of spaces. (Albergue Milpes).
Today through the crowds to O Ped. Another 'bumpy' stage with plenty of bars and cafes. Just turned up to an albergue and asked for beds and we got them in the first place we tried again.
We have decided that having the new crowd around helps us adjust to returning to the other world again.
One more day .....
Feeling happy/sad at the same time. Good job I am going on to finisterre.

 

[Nix]

I am here in Santiago. Lovely walk in today and great to see old friends in the square.
No problem getting beds again despite what feels like thousands of pilgrims arriving today with us.
Getting your compostella is straight forward, go to the office and scan the QR code. Complete the form, show it to the guy at the door and he gives you a number and tells you to wait in the garden. Wait until your batch of numbers is called and line up for your turn to enter the issuing room.
Only problem was none of us knew Spanish numbers after ten! but pilgrims are a helpful bunch and we were nudged when it was our turn.
I have completed my first Camino. No problems, no stresses, nothing but great times and wonderful people. I wish everyone Buen Camino for your adventures and maybe I will see you on the way.

Nix

 

[didi2L]

I am here in Santiago. Lovely walk in today and great to see old friends in the square.
No problem getting beds again despite what feels like thousands of pilgrims arriving today with us.
Getting your compostella is straight forward, go to the office and scan the QR code. Complete the form, show it to the guy at the door and he gives you a number and tells you to wait in the garden. Wait until your batch of numbers is called and line up for your turn to enter the issuing room.
Only problem was none of us knew Spanish numbers after ten! but pilgrims are a helpful bunch and we were nudged when it was our turn.
I have completed my first Camino. No problems, no stresses, nothing but great times and wonderful people. I wish everyone Buen Camino for your adventures and maybe I will see you on the way.

Nix

Thanks for sharing along the way, it's been helpful. I wish you happy adventures ahead!