LIVE from the Camino Leaving Seville tomorrow 2 March

[laineylainey]

Are you walking by yourself Megg? Perhaps tomorrow you will have some new walking companions?

 

[tangata hikoi]

Hi Elaine
Yes, on my own but quite a few people around so seeing people in the albergues. Had a lovely time with Rene and Dieter but happy to be walking on my own for a bit.
Megg

 

[laineylainey]

Megg is the weather still holding up? I arrive in Sevilla next Tuesday and I think April showers are in order!!
Good to here you are doing okay by yourself. I sometimes think I enjoy walking by myself but I am not so sure if I had an injury or wasn't feeling great.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Yes, Elaine, weather good today but forecasted to get a lot colder tomorrow (from 15 to 8 degrees) and for rain to arrive in the next days.
But Seville weather is very different to here, much hotter and probably less rain than here in the hills?
Very exciting for you Elaine. You will live it am sure xxx

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks Megg, look forward to your future posts

 

[tangata hikoi]

Today Lubian to A Guidina - really beautiful walk, possibly the best yet. Up to the pass the first time I've had a wet path...not to bad but some mud. It is very cold, temperature has reduced from 15 centigrade yesterday to perhaps 1 or 2 degrees today with an odd sort of snow/hail flying about. Not like snow because it is hard on the face but whiter than hail.

The Albergue at A Guidina is almost full with quite a few people I've not seen before. Some moving very fast and others very slow. All good. No blankets in the last two albergues but have been warm enough. Facilities here are good.

Foot is improving and there are sometimes I'm even unaware it's sore. Going down stairs is the hardest but expect it will continue to improve. Amazing to think such pain that would cause me to be unable to walk could be caused by something as simple as a shoe being too tight.

 

[laineylainey]

Glad to hear things are improving. An enjoyable walk as opposed to a walk by roads can really lift the spirits.
If it's any consolation it's bitterly cold in Ireland as well!!

 

[tangata hikoi]

A Guidina to Campobecerros today, only 20 kms but I feel very tired and energyless possibly in part from being woken pre-sparrowfart by those getting up at 5.30am to get on the road. The hazards of communal living. For some reason my foot is quite sore today also.

Very cold walking at the moment. Zero degrees outside and frequently snowlike precipitation which had settled a little on the cars overnight. The walk today was almost entirely along quiet country roads with a scrubby sort of landscape including swathes of the mauve heathery shrub. Nice enough but after yesterday's loveliness a bit ordinary.

Staying in the Albergue da Rosario. I'm finding the odour of whatever the cleaning chemical used hard to cope with. I find any chemical smells - including most perfumes - offensive and headache inducing. Other than that is ok. We are 5 at the moment and apparently another 4 due as well so possibly 9 here tonight. Many from last night will have gone on to Laza.

 

[Via2010]

The strong smell is Lejía, a common spanish sanitary cleaner. Opening the Windows for 10-15 minutes should expell the odour.

Reading about the weather-conditions you have to cope with, I am glad that I will start by the end of may. If I would like to walk in the snow, I could go for a walk at home.

BC
Alexandra

 

[tangata hikoi]

The strong smell is Lejía, a common spanish sanitary cleaner. Opening the Windows for 10-15 minutes should expell the odour.

Reading about the weather-conditions you have to cope with, I am glad that I will start by the end of may. If I would like to walk in the snow, I could go for a walk at home.

BC
Alexandra

Guessed it was a cleaning product of some description. Not smelt it previously in any of the accommodation.

I'm fortunate to quite like the cold so managing it ok. It's always possible to put more clothes on but not so easy to take more off when it is hot.

 

[laineylainey]

Hopefully your energy and a bit of heat in the weatherwill come back tomorrow>

 

[tangata hikoi]

We had a very good night in the Albergue at Campobecerros. Other than the chemical cleaning fluid smell was comfortable and the five of us in residence all agreed to rise at 7am so no super early awakening today.

Snowed overnight and so views were quite lovely. Managed to stay dry all day till the last few minutes coming into Alberqueria and it started to sn-ail ( my sister's suggested name for snow that is like hail or vice versa)

A Spanish pilgrim and I awaited Luis's arrival to let us into the Albergue - his cafe/bar really something to see with the many hundreds (thousands?) of autographed shells - mine now amongst them.

A conversation ensued between Luis and the Spanish pilgrim that I did not understand and ended in me being indicated to put my pack in Luis's car along with Carlos and us bring driven I did not know where...but guessed it was somewhere ok. Turned out we were going to Vilar de Barrio which is where I am now - having not walked the 7kms from Alberqueria.

The Albergue here looks virtually brand-new. Floor is heated! Men's and women's bathrooms with three showers and two toilets. Coin operated washer and dryer ( my clothes are all laundered for the first time in a while) and a kitch that looks like a showroom affair. It's really pretty flash and comfortable.

5 of us here tonight. Tomorrow it's looks like either a short day of 14kmsto the next village or 37kmsto Ourense. Assuming I'm feeling ok I guess I'll make it into Ourense and spend two nights there.

On the way through As Eiras I spoke to workmen constructing a building - was interested to know the name of the stone they use - they didn't seem to know the stone but informed me they were building a new albergue.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Walked the 37kms from Vilar de Barrio to Ourense...bit of a long haul and the first 14kms in snow! Had to really watch my footing into Xunqueria and then after that it was rain all the way into Ourense.

Finding the Albergue in Ourense was a trial...not where it is on the map as it has moved so spent a frustrating 30mins looking for it when I was very tired and it was almost 6pm...but found it and had a comfortable night. Very new facilities and everything a pilgrim could need including bar across the street.
Recommend the little bar in Padroso...Cafe Bo Camino...superb empanada and warm welcome. They were having concrete laid in the far room so the truck was outside in the snow and the concrete bring wheeled in through the cafe.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Feeling rather chuffed to get that photo loaded!

 

[laineylainey]

Feeling rather chuffed to get that photo loaded!

Lovely photo. It is very cold? Looking at the weather forecast, think I might have to pack another layer or two. Also @OzAnnie is in Sevilla today and says the weather yesterday was rain and thunderstorms. I arrive in Sevilla Tuesday.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Lovely photo. It is very cold? Looking at the weather forecast, think I might have to pack another layer or two. Also @OzAnnie is in Sevilla today and says the weather yesterday was rain and thunderstorms. I arrive in Sevilla Tuesday.

Hi Elaine
It has been cold and apparently unseasonably so according to local people. I see the forecast is for continuing rain in the coming few days but the temperature is set to rise. I imagine this is the last thrust of winter happening. It often gives us one last buffeting before spring really takes hold I often think?
Hopefully it will be over before you set out. It was very hot when I started and I think for me I'd not have liked it much hotter. Buen Camino Elaine. Am sure you will have a great time.
Megg

 

[tangata hikoi]

Today walked from Ourense to Cea via the left route. Stopped off at Casa Cesar and met the lovely Cesar. Was the exact right timing for a rest for me. Had my photo taken which I think must happen to everyone who stops there!
Rain held off till about a half hour before I got to the Albergue at Cea so a bit wet but not too bad. Albergue comfortable and two groups of 4 and 5 people that seem to have started in Ourense.
Steep climb out of the valley from Ourense then quite nice walking into Cea.
Getting close to Santiago now. Mixture of emotions about that. Obviously keen to be there but also not so keen for this to end either.

 

[laineylainey]

Hi Elaine
It has been cold and apparently unseasonably so according to local people. I see the forecast is for continuing rain in the coming few days but the temperature is set to rise. I imagine this is the last thrust of winter happening. It often gives us one last buffeting before spring really takes hold I often think?
Hopefully it will be over before you set out. It was very hot when I started and I think for me I'd not have liked it much hotter. Buen Camino Elaine. Am sure you will have a great time.
Megg

Thanks Megg for your optimistic forecast! Good that you are still enjoying the journey. Whatever the weather I am so looking forward to seeing some spring flowers even if they are a bit bruised from wind and showers!
Elaine

 

[laineylainey]

Megg meant to ask, if you are still in Ourense, have you visited the Thermal Baths?

 

[tangata hikoi]

Didn't go Elaine as I have no swimsuit. I'm not much of one for heated baths as I get to hot too quickly

Megg meant to ask, if you are still in Ourense, have you visited the Thermal Baths?

 

[laineylainey]

Didn't go Elaine as I have no swimsuit. I'm not much of one for heated baths as I get to hot too quickly

Did you enjoy Ourense?

 

[tangata hikoi]

Did you enjoy Ourense?

I wasn't that taken with it Elaine. I was going to spend two nights there but wasn't allowed in the Albergue a second night and didn't feel much like finding another place so chose to leave instead. I think partly my frame of mind wasn't in city mode.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Cea to Castro Dozon via Oseira.
Very wet today, the trail was a stream (with often deep puddles)for much of the day and feet got very wet. It seemed to stop raining and then come down again throughout the day. I was warm enough but it did make for a harder than usual walk.

No food here in Dozon. Supermarket available so we can cook something here tonight but no menu available to purchase.

Had my first experience of taxigrinos today. A group of 5 left after us from Cea but I was surprised (and initially confused) to pass them on the road after the Monastery. After a hard couple of very wet hours into Dozon found them sitting in the cafe warm and dry ahead of us again...and realised that the frequent notices for taxis ARE used by some.
Have to admit I felt some initial indignation but then on reflection thought it's none of my business how people do their 'Camino'. My only concern is my own, so I got my focus back on that.

Albergue here comfortable and heating came on at 5.30pm am glad to report - it is cold! Kitchen looks equipped which is good given we will need to make our own dinner tonight.

Walking back along the footpath from the supermarket just about got knocked out by a roadsign! It was hanging over the footpath and quite low and as it was raining I was plowing along head down making for the Albergue at speed and whack! I'm 5'10" so not massively tall but it caught me across the forehead. Really poor placement of the sign!

Another reflection I've had today concerns gear and how much to carry. In one Albergue quite a while back the hospitelario carried (unasked) my bag into the dorm and proceeded to tell me it was too heavy. I felt chastised and offended. It was none of his business what I chose to carry on my Camino and would have been better if he'd kept his opinion to himself. Today I've watched fellow pilgrims come off their walk and get out of their wet clothes and into what they have left - and it's not much. I have warm dry clothing to change into and many of them do not and they are obviously cold. My bag might be heavier than some others but I'm prepared for all weather and I've had it; snow, hail, wind, rain, burning sun and perfect days. It doesn't matter if the hat/gloves/warm merino are only used once or even never at all, it's like insurance - you hope you'll never need it but when you do it's worthwhile having lugged it the other 900+kms.

 

[jony jony]

Too late forTangata Hikoi , but for anyone else who wishes to visit the thermal baths and have a rest day ....there is another albergue /hostal about 250 mtrs before the municipal albergue on the left ( Grelo Albergue ) for a 2nd nights rest . The thermal baths were one of the highlights of my camino last year , easy and cheap ( 80 cents by tourist train ) to get to and a delight to spend an afternoon there .
I will be leaving Seville on 24th April and i have bought myself a new pair of shorts just for the thermal baths .

 

[peregrina2000]

I wasn't that taken with it Elaine. I was going to spend two nights there but wasn't allowed in the Albergue a second night and didn't feel much like finding another place so chose to leave instead. I think partly my frame of mind wasn't in city mode.

I have to say that is my overall impression as well. I have been there several times walking and once as a tourist. It would not rank up there in my must-visit places, but the trip to the baths was very nice.

I think the Cathedral's portico is beautiful, and I hope to someday visit the cloister adjacent to where the albergue used to be. http://turismodeourense.gal/recurso/claustro-de-san-francisco/ . It was wrapped up in a big dispute for years, and finally has opened. so I will have to get back there someday!

 

[laineylainey]

Cea to Castro Dozon via Oseira.
Very wet today, the trail was a stream (with often deep puddles)for much of the day and feet got very wet. It seemed to stop raining and then come down again throughout the day. I was warm enough but it did make for a harder than usual walk.

No food here in Dozon. Supermarket available so we can cook something here tonight but no menu available to purchase.

Had my first experience of taxigrinos today. A group of 5 left after us from Cea but I was surprised (and initially confused) to pass them on the road after the Monastery. After a hard couple of very wet hours into Dozon found them sitting in the cafe warm and dry ahead of us again...and realised that the frequent notices for taxis ARE used by some.
Have to admit I felt some initial indignation but then on reflection thought it's none of my business how people do their 'Camino'. My only concern is my own, so I got my focus back on that.

Albergue here comfortable and heating came on at 5.30pm am glad to report - it is cold! Kitchen looks equipped which is good given we will need to make our own dinner tonight.

Walking back along the footpath from the supermarket just about got knocked out by a roadsign! It was hanging over the footpath and quite low and as it was raining I was plowing along head down making for the Albergue at speed and whack! I'm 5'10" so not massively tall but it caught me across the forehead. Really poor placement of the sign!

Another reflection I've had today concerns gear and how much to carry. In one Albergue quite a while back the hospitelario carried (unasked) my bag into the dorm and proceeded to tell me it was too heavy. I felt chastised and offended. It was none of his business what I chose to carry on my Camino and would have been better if he'd kept his opinion to himself. Today I've watched fellow pilgrims come off their walk and get out of their wet clothes and into what they have left - and it's not much. I have warm dry clothing to change into and many of them do not and they are obviously cold. My bag might be heavier than some others but I'm prepared for all weather and I've had it; snow, hail, wind, rain, burning sun and perfect days. It doesn't matter if the hat/gloves/warm merino are only used once or even never at all, it's like insurance - you hope you'll never need it but when you do it's worthwhile having lugged it the other 900+kms.

I agree take whatever. Many times after unpacking and repackin
g my rucksack I come a cross something that hasn't been worn, but what the heck, at the time of packing I wanted to take it!! But then I usually lose 2 to 3 items, accidentally, on each trip so it sort of balances out in a non logical way!!

 

[tangata hikoi]

Castro Dozon to Silleda 28kms. Thankfully most of the forecasted rain did not eventuate and, save one or two bursts, we had a largely dry walk - although still very wet underfoot.

Recommend the bar/cafe at Estacion Lalin. Really excellent service, coffee, food and complementary cake given with the order. We were very pleased to get there as the bar/cafe at Santa Dominga (2km from Dozon) was closed despite us being told it opened at 7.30am.

We also stopped at the bar in Prado. Again highly recommend...it's about 100m past the route turnoff but very easy to join back on without retracing your step. The food smells were fantastic and even though we weren't especially hungry had to eat both because it just smelt so fantastic but also because they actually wanted to feed us. That's not been my experience on the whole trip. Often been hard to get food in bars. Either a flat 'no' to enquiries about food or only a bocadillo available. I've eaten so much white bread, cheese and ham I almost can't face anymore. So today's experience was delightful and I rolled out of the bar fuller than I needed to be and very grateful for being the beneficiary of such deliciousness.

Tried to stay at El Gran Albergue as in the guide and copiously advertised along the way but when we got there no one around and not obvious where to go. So retraced our steps to Albergue Turistica round the corner. It starts two floors up and my room is on the 4th floor...and no lift. Feels punishing after 28kms to to be going up and down those stairs.

I thought the walk into Silleda one of the better entrances to a town/city that I've experienced. Usually they are unpleasant bits of the walk to get through but todays outskirts were better than most.

 

[tangata hikoi]

Yesterday stayed at Albergue in O Outiero. Is out of the way with no close bar/cafe but super Albergue and good kitchen. Was a good night with 8 of us and quite a few of us who started at the same time and therefore finishing together which is very pleasant.
Had an menu de Dia in Ponte Ulla for lunch before going to Albergue so well fed for the day.

Today the last 17 Kms into Santiago. Lovely walk and the way not very 'industrial' and therefore very pleasant.

So am finished...and all that it brings with it - feeling of success and accomplishment alongside a sort of empty sad feeling.

I'm about to complain so turn away now if you are disinclined to hear a frustration...

I was debating with myself whether to go and collect a Compestella. I've not been to Santiago before and don't fully understand the reason/background for the certificate but in the end decided to do so. I was interested in what it is about and had read and appreciated volunteers accounts of working in the office welcoming pilgrims. However for me it was a deflating and even painful experience. I waited in the queue for perhaps 25 minutes...no problem with that (and I realise it was a much shorter queue that it often is) Lots of people want their moment too. Then when called my credenciales were hand over and stamped, I filled out a form, a certificate was handed to me with the wrong name which I pointed out. It was rewritten - I showed my passport to clarify the name - and the new one also had my name incorrectly spelt. I thought to request a third version but decided against it. The person/volunteer/employee seemed singularly uninterested and by this time - with no eye contact or interaction - I couldn't see the point.
With the sheer volume of people coming through, the heightened emotions of arriving, the satisfaction and sense of achievement as well as a kind of grief at the finishing, there is an abundance and intensity of feeling and sensation in almost everyone - it was plainly obvious to me in those in the queue. In retrospect it is unreasonable to expect that to be 'met' by a stranger processing a document but I think that was something of what was going on for me and the origin of the disappointment.
In the end recognition needs to be found internally and I think I knew that before I stood in the queue which was why I was conflicted in the first place.

I've loved the walking, loved meeting my fellow pilgrims, and had a wonderful time. Thank you Spain for so much of the infrastructure that enables us to all do this, it is a special and incredible thing to have access to.
Megg

 

[laineylainey]

Megg I love your thoughts and experience about Santiago and getting your Compostella. I sort of felt the same in 2016 when I first arrived at Santiago and then the next day queued for 2 hours to get my own. I found Santiago a bit of a disappointment in the same way as I found the end of the trilogy "lord of the rings", because I didn't want it to end. So since I have not seen Santiago as the destination but only as my last day.
Well done for your journey, given what you dealt with you should be patting yourself on both shoulders and giving yourself a big hug xxx
Elaine

 

[tangata hikoi]

Megg I love your thoughts and experience about Santiago and getting your Compostella. I sort of felt the same in 2016 when I first arrived at Santiago and then the next day queued for 2 hours to get my own. I found Santiago a bit of a disappointment in the same way as I found the end of the trilogy "lord of the rings", because I didn't want it to end. So since I have not seen Santiago as the destination but only as my last day.
Well done for your journey, given what you dealt with you should be patting yourself on both shoulders and giving yourself a big hug xxx
Elaine

Thank you Elaine, it's been fantastic, truly...and more to come! Finisterre, Muxia...and on...

 

[Martyduc]

Yesterday stayed at Albergue in O Outiero. Is out of the way with no close bar/cafe but super Albergue and good kitchen. Was a good night with 8 of us and quite a few of us who started at the same time and therefore finishing together which is very pleasant.
Had an menu de Dia in Ponte Ulla for lunch before going to Albergue so well fed for the day.

Today the last 17 Kms into Santiago. Lovely walk and the way not very 'industrial' and therefore very pleasant.

So am finished...and all that it brings with it - feeling of success and accomplishment alongside a sort of empty sad feeling.

I'm about to complain so turn away now if you are disinclined to hear a frustration...

I was debating with myself whether to go and collect a Compestella. I've not been to Santiago before and don't fully understand the reason/background for the certificate but in the end decided to do so. I was interested in what it is about and had read and appreciated volunteers accounts of working in the office welcoming pilgrims. However for me it was a deflating and even painful experience. I waited in the queue for perhaps 25 minutes...no problem with that (and I realise it was a much shorter queue that it often is) Lots of people want their moment too. Then when called my credenciales were hand over and stamped, I filled out a form, a certificate was handed to me with the wrong name which I pointed out. It was rewritten - I showed my passport to clarify the name - and the new one also had my name incorrectly spelt. I thought to request a third version but decided against it. The person/volunteer/employee seemed singularly uninterested and by this time - with no eye contact or interaction - I couldn't see the point.
With the sheer volume of people coming through, the heightened emotions of arriving, the satisfaction and sense of achievement as well as a kind of grief at the finishing, there is an abundance and intensity of feeling and sensation in almost everyone - it was plainly obvious to me in those in the queue. In retrospect it is unreasonable to expect that to be 'met' by a stranger processing a document but I think that was something of what was going on for me and the origin of the disappointment.
In the end recognition needs to be found internally and I think I knew that before I stood in the queue which was why I was conflicted in the first place.

I've loved the walking, loved meeting my fellow pilgrims, and had a wonderful time. Thank you Spain for so much of the infrastructure that enables us to all do this, it is a special and incredible thing to have access to.
Megg

In relation to your name being spelt wrong, ,,I was under the impression

Yesterday stayed at Albergue in O Outiero. Is out of the way with no close bar/cafe but super Albergue and good kitchen. Was a good night with 8 of us and quite a few of us who started at the same time and therefore finishing together which is very pleasant.
Had an menu de Dia in Ponte Ulla for lunch before going to Albergue so well fed for the day.

Today the last 17 Kms into Santiago. Lovely walk and the way not very 'industrial' and therefore very pleasant.

So am finished...and all that it brings with it - feeling of success and accomplishment alongside a sort of empty sad feeling.

I'm about to complain so turn away now if you are disinclined to hear a frustration...

I was debating with myself whether to go and collect a Compestella. I've not been to Santiago before and don't fully understand the reason/background for the certificate but in the end decided to do so. I was interested in what it is about and had read and appreciated volunteers accounts of working in the office welcoming pilgrims. However for me it was a deflating and even painful experience. I waited in the queue for perhaps 25 minutes...no problem with that (and I realise it was a much shorter queue that it often is) Lots of people want their moment too. Then when called my credenciales were hand over and stamped, I filled out a form, a certificate was handed to me with the wrong name which I pointed out. It was rewritten - I showed my passport to clarify the name - and the new one also had my name incorrectly spelt. I thought to request a third version but decided against it. The person/volunteer/employee seemed singularly uninterested and by this time - with no eye contact or interaction - I couldn't see the point.
With the sheer volume of people coming through, the heightened emotions of arriving, the satisfaction and sense of achievement as well as a kind of grief at the finishing, there is an abundance and intensity of feeling and sensation in almost everyone - it was plainly obvious to me in those in the queue. In retrospect it is unreasonable to expect that to be 'met' by a stranger processing a document but I think that was something of what was going on for me and the origin of the disappointment.
In the end recognition needs to be found internally and I think I knew that before I stood in the queue which was why I was conflicted in the first place.

I've loved the walking, loved meeting my fellow pilgrims, and had a wonderful time. Thank you Spain for so much of the infrastructure that enables us to all do this, it is a special and incredible thing to have access to.
Megg

I was under the impression that at least your first name on The Compostela is written in Latin,,, not sure about your last name,,, and hey congrats on your Camino

 

[laineylainey]

Thank you Elaine, it's been fantastic, truly...and more to come! Finisterre, Muxia...and on...

Don't forget to get your Compostella at Finisterre.

 

[MileHighPair]

@tangata hikoi Congratulations on completing your walk. I left Seville on March 1st - two years ago. It was such a thrill to follow you over the last 6 weeks, hearing of your experiences both along the path and in the towns that I learned to love in 2017. You can enjoy the satisfaction of a truly grand adventure. Ultreia!