LIVE from the Camino Invierno September 2024

[BombayBill]

Off we go again on a new route for me, Camino Invierno. Not sure I’ll have much to add the already excellent details posted by @peregrina2000 and @Wendy Werneth and Nick.

I’m trying to follow their suggestions but my staging and distances are now dictated by the realization that enthusiasm can only partially compensate for age. Despite my best intentions I’m starting out after a lengthy dinner.

Anything that stands out I’ll note here….once I fully come awake.

 

[Robo]

The frequent hills are a great cure for excess wine consumption.....

 

[Camino Chrissy]

my staging and distances are now dictated by the realization that enthusiasm can only partially compensate for age.

Although I don't consider myself old yet, I can keep my enthusiasm up if I now can shave off a few kilometers on the longest stages....and no wine before I finish walking for the day.
Good luck leaving Ponferrada after dinner!

 

[peregrina2000]

enthusiasm can only partially compensate for age.

Ain’t it the truth!

The t-shirt I got on my 70th birthday — “Hill? What hill? I didn’t see any hill!” You will see plenty of hills on the Invierno, and I’m confident you’ll get over them all.

Have a great walk, @BombayBill. Very much looking forward to hearing how it goes for you. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[BombayBill]

VILLAVIEJA to PUENTE FLÓREZ

The Albergue in Villavieja was terrific. Only another Spanish couple. In fact I’ve only seen them, 3 Aussies ( @jimmyc )and 1 other person. In fact in Ponferrada there were very few walkers. Probably a back to school lull.

I put a lot of thought into the Villavieja route finally settling on the Wikiloc trail. https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/villavieja-orellan-las-medulas-85187804

Ha! The joke was on me. Heavy fog and cloud so no views until Mirador Orellan. The gps tracks and the Wise Pilgrim deviation are not for the faint hearted with no visual orientation in the heavy cloud and mist.

I was vigilant for aggressive dogs but the hound of Villavieja has been tamed by age. Not so a sly fellow further on. He tried to slink up behind me but I’d spotted him earlier and so whirled about to see him off with a thrust of my épée. En garde!

I did see quite a lot of evidence of feral pigs/boars. Diggings and scat.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi @BombayBill, I will be reading your posts with special interest as I will be two+ weeks behind you.

 

[BombayBill]

O’BARCO

Attached photo may interest the weary walker.

 

[JenniMaria]

The Albergue in Villavieja was terrific. Only another Spanish couple. In fact I’ve only seen them, 3 Aussies ( @jimmyc )and 1 other person. In fact in Ponferrada there were very few walkers. Probably a back to school lull.

Buen camino!
I can't wait to start my own camino. I bet invierno is challenging in many ways, especially because it is My first camino, but I can't help to wonder how challenging it is if I don't speak spanish?
Apparently some places (Villavieja, Bar Mar in Sobradelo) have to be booked by phone and I'm terrified.

 

[BombayBill]

Buen camino!
I can't wait to start my own camino. I bet invierno is challenging in many ways, especially because it is My first camino, but I can't help to wonder how challenging it is if I don't speak spanish?
Apparently some places (Villavieja, Bar Mar in Sobradelo) have to be booked by phone and I'm terrified.

A little intimidating for sure. But you can overcome it with some prep. After all they’re not going to suddenly ask you your thoughts on climate change.

Write it out first. Start with something that alerts them to your issue

Buenos Dias , yo soy peregrina, tienes una cama septiembre uno , Domingo, para una mujer? I always give day of week to prevent confusion. Expect questions back. Con bano? With bathroom? Compartimento? Dorm or private? You can do it.

 

[BombayBill]

One thing of note that I neglected to take note of. I was under caffeinated. Around the entrance to O Barco or maybe more likely Sobradelo it looked like a brand new albergue on the right of the path. Very new, modern, trim in wood with a large sign outside declaring an initiative of local government. Sorry it didn’t sink in until much later.

Perhaps @Camino Chrissy some days behind me can pay more attention and provide an update?

 

[peregrina2000]

more likely Sobradelo it looked like a brand new albergue on the right of the path.

Yes, this has been in the works for a while. It’s at the entrance to Sobradelo, and it’s going to be a municipal albergue túristico. I can’t find any news about an opening. In 2022, it was projected to open in 2023. According to local news.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yes, this has been in the works for a while. It’s at the entrance to Sobradelo, and it’s going to be a municipal albergue túristico. I can’t find any news about an opening. In 2022, it was projected to open in 2023. According to local news.

That is a very impressive renovation! You quickly provided the correct answer which is no surprise!

 

[BombayBill]

A RUA

The newish donativo in A Rua is run by a nice couple. They serve a hearty communal meal. Clean , well run, good location. It now appears that there are about 30-40 pilgrims a day. 15 of them are a peregrino association from Cadiz. They kindly break into pods at accom and restaurants so as to not overwhelm any one place.

Albergue de Peregrinos · A Rúa, Province of Ourense

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yes, at first I thought you were probably talking about that new one @Bradypus mentioned on the forum, until @peregrina2000 chimed in.
The A Rúa albergue OPENED on 15 March 2024! | Camino de Santiago Forum

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/the-a-rua-albergue-opened-on-15-march-2024.85355/

 

[trecile]

The newish donativo in A Rua is run by a nice couple. They serve a hearty communal meal

It's actually run by volunteer hospitaleros/as.

When I stayed there in June there was just a single hospitalera, who was wonderful, and there were only two pilgrims (including me) sleeping there.

 

[BombayBill]

A POBRA BROLLON
The Albergue here very new and clean. Well laid out with a washing machine. I booked by email but you can book by Booking. There was some on confusion on arrival by one guest as he insisted he’d paid thru B but the manager insisted there was no such arrangement. You pay on arrival. Not sure where everyone went as only 3 beds were occupied out of 36.

 

[trecile]

A POBRA BROLLON
The Albergue here very new and clean. Well laid out with a washing machine. I booked by email but you can book by Booking. There was some on confusion on arrival by one guest as he insisted he’d paid thru B but the manager insisted there was no such arrangement. You pay on arrival. Not sure where everyone went as only 3 beds were occupied out of 36.

It's a great albergue. There were only two of us when I was there.

 

[peregrina2000]

A POBRA BROLLON
The Albergue here very new and clean. Well laid out with a washing machine. I booked by email but you can book by Booking. There was some on confusion on arrival by one guest as he insisted he’d paid thru B but the manager insisted there was no such arrangement. You pay on arrival. Not sure where everyone went as only 3 beds were occupied out of 36.

This is one of those places where the owners/operators are working on a small margin and have put themselves on booking only because they know that so many people use it. The price is the same whether you use booking or not, but they take a hit when you use booking.

It is very easy to reserve directly with the albergue, so I would encourage you to help them save a few euros! BombayBill reserved through email, and they also use WhatsApp at +34 609 49 09 41. They are providing an excellent service and I hope they will be successful.

 

[BombayBill]

NOTES ON BRIERLEY ELEVATION GAIN

I use a variety of the usual guides but appreciate Brierley’s succinct elevation gains’ notations. It seems, to me, that the latter stages’ notes ( A Rua on), in the 2022 guide, might be in feet but are noted in meters. I.E. 1850m elevation gain in to Chantada doesn’t seem right.

I see that @peregrina2000 and Rayrosa in Wikiloc indicate elevation gains of 852m and 771m.

I think this is noted in someone else’s post as well. I sent a note in to JB guides asking about this.

 

[BombayBill]

MONFORTE TO CHANTADA
A wonderful 30k journey not as bad as you’d think. Left at 7:30 , was having lunch and 1 caña too many at Belasar fluviale restaurant by 1:30. The beer propelled me up and over next hill before I knew it and I was at the outskirts of Chantada by 3:30. The new Dpaso hostel in Chantada is just about perfect. Pods with curtains.
A wonderful day.

 

[peregrina2000]

I see that @peregrina2000 and Rayrosa in Wikiloc indicate elevation gains of 852m and 771m.

Yup, we’ve seen that the elevation profiles in similar or even identical wikiloc tracks are frequently inconsistent. Someone once explained the technological reason for that, but I can’t remember. In any case, what I usually do is glance at several tracks for the stage and get a ballpark figure. Clearly, 1850m for that stage is wrong. That would make it more strenuous than SJPP to Roncesvalles, which tends to post at around 1300m elevation gain.

Glad you had a good day over the Miño, it’s one of the best.

 

[BombayBill]

CHANTADA -PENSALLIS- RODEIRO

To spare a bothersome knee I took the road route between Pensallis and Rodeiro using Wikiloc.

If you’re using @wisepilgrim s app and looking for refreshments near the end I think the app version current in Sep 2024 has the towns of Feira and Ermida mixed up on the map view and in the description . There is a nice cafe in Feira in the last few k.


https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trai...ium=app&utm_campaign=share&utm_source=2920172 (Camino Invierno Penasillas-Rodeiro by road)

 

[JWST]

I plan on walking this starting 10 October, will complete Frances from Ponferrada and onto Finisterre first, starting 21 Sept, 70 y.o. solo traveller on second venture to Spain's caminos and greatly appreciate all the recent tips comments from @BombayBill, @Wendy Werneth, @jungleboy and moderators

 

[peregrina2000]

To spare a bothersome knee I took the road route between Pensallis and Rodeiro using Wikiloc.

I hope your knee is cooperating, BombayBill! Was it the Codos de Belesar down to the Miño that did it?

I got the idea to go this way from @FreeCat, who posted several pictures.

I took the route mainly to see the beautiful romanesque doorway that is a few hundred meters off route in Mouricios. It was worth it, especially since the weather was bad and the rain pretty constant (though the rain stopped for ten minutes while I was visiting the church!). There were also a few covered bus shelters, which meant that I could grab a bite to eat, and I also met a forum member doing the same thing - we later had dinner together in Rodeiro.

This route is mostly on asphalt (except for a slog at the beginning through marshy fields) — but it was mostly on the side of very untraveled roads. If the weather is very bad, or if you’ve been up to Monte Faro already, or if you just want to see a few more nice Romanesque churches, or if you want to give your knees a less rigorous workout, this is a good alternative.

 

[BombayBill]

I hope your knee is cooperating, BombayBill! Was it the Codos de Belesar down to the Miño that did it?

I got the idea to go this way from @FreeCat, who posted several pictures.

I took the route mainly to see the beautiful romanesque doorway that is a few hundred meters off route in Mouricios. It was worth it, especially since the weather was bad and the rain pretty constant (though the rain stopped for ten minutes while I was visiting the church!). There were also a few covered bus shelters, which meant that I could grab a bite to eat, and I also met a forum member doing the same thing - we later had dinner together in Rodeiro.

This route is mostly on asphalt — but it was mostly on the side of very untraveled roads. If the weather is very bad, or if you’ve been up to Monte Faro already, or if you just want to see a few more nice Romanesque churches, or if you want to give your knees a less rigorous workout, this is a good alternative.

Wow that looks like real Invierno (winter) weather. The last 10 days have been terrific weather wise. Cooler than I usually get, mostly 19c , great walking weather. 7-9c in morning. Heat returns tomorrow for last 2 days.

 

[BombayBill]

SANTIAGO FINISH
All went well. Very enjoyable
STATS
Walking:12 days
Wayfinding: Brierley, Gronze, Wise Pilgrim, arrows were not always there. @wisepilgrim saved the day

Accom: never more than 1/2 full except Alb A Pobra

Memorable Moments: A POBRA communal dinner, Dpaso hotel CHANTADA, Cafe Maria Jose A LAXE, blackberry lined lanes

Pack: Osprey
Shoes: Altra Olympus
Wine: Ribeira Sacra
Meds: Naproxen 1 a day
Mechanical Assistance: Breg

Asta Luego!

 

[VNwalking]

Wow sorry I missed this until now.
Well done, BombayBill!

Amazing to see how many new albergues are popping up. The Invierno may at last be taking off.

Around the entrance to O Barco or maybe more likely Sobradelo it looked like a brand new albergue on the right of the path. Very new, modern, trim in wood with a large sign outside declaring an initiative of local government

Yes, this has been in the works for a while. It’s at the entrance to Sobradelo, and it’s going to be a municipal albergue túristico. I can’t find any news about an opening. In 2022, it was projected to open in 2023. According to local news.

Particularly pleased about this one, because Bar Mar's accommodation was pretty dodgy. Nice to know that now there's some competition.

The t-shirt I got on my 70th birthday — “Hill? What hill? I didn’t see any hill!”

Perfect.
I see them all, and the Invierno certainly has its share.

 

[trecile]

Accom: never more than 1/2 full except Alb A Pobra

That's downright crowded compared to what I experienced in June!

 

[VNwalking]

That's downright crowded compared to what I experienced in June!

And more in one night than I met on the whole walk in 2019.