I managed to get in four days on the Invierno before Spain went into lockdown.
Tuesday March 10:
I drove from Salamanca to A Rúa (stopping off for a coffee in the lovely cafetería next to the Monasterio de Santa María de Carracedo ouside Ponferrada), and had an excellent lunch in Restaurante Pepa (11.50 euros menú del día) just down from the town hall. I was staying in O Pillabán, so after a quick change into my shorts (it was in the high twenties!) I set off for Montefurado. I was accompanied by a local girl for a few kilometres; she takes her dog out every afternoon and walks four or five kilometres along the old road (with no traffic) to Os Albaredos and back. I had time for a chat with the local farmer who leaves fruit for peregrinos, and with two old ladies sitting outside by the station, before heading up to the church for a well-needed 'shower' in the fountain there. The train was on time, and I was back in A Rúa for a rest, before going downstairs for quite a few wines with Juan, the owner and chef, and the locals, many of whom knew me from past visits.
Wednesday March 11:
On the Wednesday morning, instead of hanging around for the train, I decided to go for the bus to Montefurado. It was supposed to leave at 08.10, but didn't turn up until 08.45. Another gentleman there said it was always late, so I wasn't particularly worried. At 9 o'clock I was dropped off at the bottom of Montefurado, past the station, and then had to climb back up through the village and get back on the Camino. It was chilly at first, with low clouds, but by the time I made it past Bendilló and down to Soldón the sun was beating down again, and I needed a good break down by the river (the chiringuito, of course, was closed, but there are plenty of benches). You think you're almost in Quiroga, but when you eventually get to Os Novais you know that you have a 180 degree turn to go down to the stream and then up the other side before getting to Caspedro and on down to Quiroga.
I stayed, as ever, in the Hostal Quiper with the lovely Doña Esther, and managed a couple of wines and pinchos (and three sellos for the credencial) before heading up to my all-time favourite restaurant, Casa Aroza. An incredible greeting from Miguel and Lupe, the owners, and a marvellous meal, washed down with a couple of free chupitos. All for 10 euros.
After a much-needed siesta I headed out for a supermarket shop, but then - surprise, surprise! - ended up in Casa Aroza again, talking to the owners and the locals and getting invited to wine after wine. I was in no hurry, though!
Thursday March 12:
I had booked A Salanova in Salcedo for the Thursday, so I didn't need to get up too early. Breakfast in the Bar under the Hostal Quiper and then the usual plod over to San Clodio and up the old road for an hour or so before getting into the woods. As it had rained quite a bit over the previous weeks the streams and waterfalls were really impressive; there's nothing like walking along with nothing but the sound of birds and the flow of water to accompany you.
I sat down by the fountain in O Carballo de Lor, and picked up a handy iron bar, as I knew what to expect on the way down! Sure enough, there they were: the huge dogs in A Trampilla! They are chained up, but they're still frightening.
Pensión Pacita was open and I received another really friendly welcome from the owners, so I had time for a couple of cold bottles of Estrella Galicia before sitting down to have lunch with them (the son joined us a bit later). Pacita had made 'arroz', which was practically a paella, and then a massive chuletón de ternera appeared, all washed down with their excellent home-made wine. Just as well I turned down their offer of a dessert! For the two beers and the meal she apologetically charged me 10 euros! By the way, they remember many of you who have stayed the night there, especially VNwalking!
José Luís from A Salanova in Salcedo will pick you up free of charge in Castroncelos or A Pobra do Brollón (if you book direct!), but I had decided to walk straight there from Pensión Pacita. It's a lovely walk, and well signposted, first along the river and then up, up and up until you eventually get to the small hamlet of Beirán, where you can decide to turn right up the local road or cross over and get to Salcedo along country paths. They are both uphill, though. All in all, it's 6.5 to 7 kilometres, and not recommendable after a blowout meal and with the temperature around 25 degrees!
José Luís gave me a room in the adjoining Hotel (it's all part of the same complex), and provided a massive plate of local embutidos and cheeses for my evening meal, with his own local wine!
Friday March 13:
Breakfast in the bar downstairs and then José Luís drove me to A Pobra (this is free of charge). I could have walked it (just 5 or 6 kilometres), but he was going into A Pobra (the locals all call it Puebla, in castellano, by the way!) to deal with things in the bank there.
Anyway, the stage to Monforte was the same as ever, with that tough little climb halfway along near Rairos, but I made a detour just before the end in order to avoid that horrible waterlogged stretch after Reigada. It's easy to find: just turn right up a little road called Rúa Leiras Pulpeiro, and after a couple of hundred yards turn left along Rua Juan Montes. This brings you out just north of the railway station, close to the railway museum, and it's a short hop back down towards town.
As I was heading back by train the day after, I stopped (for the fourth time) in the Hotel Condes de Lemos, right opposite the station. It's been renovated and is good value for money. The breakfast buffet is only 2 euros 50, and is well worth it.
A few wines in town, and a lovely menú del día in the Centro do Viño. In the evening, after the Spanish government had imposed their strict measures to combat the spread of the virus, the only place left open in Monforte was the Fonda de la Estación.
Saturday March 14:
Just as well I had already bought my train ticket back to A Rúa, where I had left the car, as Monforte station was absolutely packed with peregrinos who were making their way back from Santiago, Lugo, Ourense or other intermediary places, and trying to head towards Madrid, the French border or Barcelona.
Once in A Rúa I got into the car and headed back home to Salamanca.
Perfect timing for a short Camino; let's hope that things improve and we'll all be able to get back to some sort of normal life again soon.
Keep safe and well. Buen Camino to you all!
Tuesday March 10:
I drove from Salamanca to A Rúa (stopping off for a coffee in the lovely cafetería next to the Monasterio de Santa María de Carracedo ouside Ponferrada), and had an excellent lunch in Restaurante Pepa (11.50 euros menú del día) just down from the town hall. I was staying in O Pillabán, so after a quick change into my shorts (it was in the high twenties!) I set off for Montefurado. I was accompanied by a local girl for a few kilometres; she takes her dog out every afternoon and walks four or five kilometres along the old road (with no traffic) to Os Albaredos and back. I had time for a chat with the local farmer who leaves fruit for peregrinos, and with two old ladies sitting outside by the station, before heading up to the church for a well-needed 'shower' in the fountain there. The train was on time, and I was back in A Rúa for a rest, before going downstairs for quite a few wines with Juan, the owner and chef, and the locals, many of whom knew me from past visits.
Wednesday March 11:
On the Wednesday morning, instead of hanging around for the train, I decided to go for the bus to Montefurado. It was supposed to leave at 08.10, but didn't turn up until 08.45. Another gentleman there said it was always late, so I wasn't particularly worried. At 9 o'clock I was dropped off at the bottom of Montefurado, past the station, and then had to climb back up through the village and get back on the Camino. It was chilly at first, with low clouds, but by the time I made it past Bendilló and down to Soldón the sun was beating down again, and I needed a good break down by the river (the chiringuito, of course, was closed, but there are plenty of benches). You think you're almost in Quiroga, but when you eventually get to Os Novais you know that you have a 180 degree turn to go down to the stream and then up the other side before getting to Caspedro and on down to Quiroga.
I stayed, as ever, in the Hostal Quiper with the lovely Doña Esther, and managed a couple of wines and pinchos (and three sellos for the credencial) before heading up to my all-time favourite restaurant, Casa Aroza. An incredible greeting from Miguel and Lupe, the owners, and a marvellous meal, washed down with a couple of free chupitos. All for 10 euros.
After a much-needed siesta I headed out for a supermarket shop, but then - surprise, surprise! - ended up in Casa Aroza again, talking to the owners and the locals and getting invited to wine after wine. I was in no hurry, though!
Thursday March 12:
I had booked A Salanova in Salcedo for the Thursday, so I didn't need to get up too early. Breakfast in the Bar under the Hostal Quiper and then the usual plod over to San Clodio and up the old road for an hour or so before getting into the woods. As it had rained quite a bit over the previous weeks the streams and waterfalls were really impressive; there's nothing like walking along with nothing but the sound of birds and the flow of water to accompany you.
I sat down by the fountain in O Carballo de Lor, and picked up a handy iron bar, as I knew what to expect on the way down! Sure enough, there they were: the huge dogs in A Trampilla! They are chained up, but they're still frightening.
Pensión Pacita was open and I received another really friendly welcome from the owners, so I had time for a couple of cold bottles of Estrella Galicia before sitting down to have lunch with them (the son joined us a bit later). Pacita had made 'arroz', which was practically a paella, and then a massive chuletón de ternera appeared, all washed down with their excellent home-made wine. Just as well I turned down their offer of a dessert! For the two beers and the meal she apologetically charged me 10 euros! By the way, they remember many of you who have stayed the night there, especially VNwalking!
José Luís from A Salanova in Salcedo will pick you up free of charge in Castroncelos or A Pobra do Brollón (if you book direct!), but I had decided to walk straight there from Pensión Pacita. It's a lovely walk, and well signposted, first along the river and then up, up and up until you eventually get to the small hamlet of Beirán, where you can decide to turn right up the local road or cross over and get to Salcedo along country paths. They are both uphill, though. All in all, it's 6.5 to 7 kilometres, and not recommendable after a blowout meal and with the temperature around 25 degrees!
José Luís gave me a room in the adjoining Hotel (it's all part of the same complex), and provided a massive plate of local embutidos and cheeses for my evening meal, with his own local wine!
Friday March 13:
Breakfast in the bar downstairs and then José Luís drove me to A Pobra (this is free of charge). I could have walked it (just 5 or 6 kilometres), but he was going into A Pobra (the locals all call it Puebla, in castellano, by the way!) to deal with things in the bank there.
Anyway, the stage to Monforte was the same as ever, with that tough little climb halfway along near Rairos, but I made a detour just before the end in order to avoid that horrible waterlogged stretch after Reigada. It's easy to find: just turn right up a little road called Rúa Leiras Pulpeiro, and after a couple of hundred yards turn left along Rua Juan Montes. This brings you out just north of the railway station, close to the railway museum, and it's a short hop back down towards town.
As I was heading back by train the day after, I stopped (for the fourth time) in the Hotel Condes de Lemos, right opposite the station. It's been renovated and is good value for money. The breakfast buffet is only 2 euros 50, and is well worth it.
A few wines in town, and a lovely menú del día in the Centro do Viño. In the evening, after the Spanish government had imposed their strict measures to combat the spread of the virus, the only place left open in Monforte was the Fonda de la Estación.
Saturday March 14:
Just as well I had already bought my train ticket back to A Rúa, where I had left the car, as Monforte station was absolutely packed with peregrinos who were making their way back from Santiago, Lugo, Ourense or other intermediary places, and trying to head towards Madrid, the French border or Barcelona.
Once in A Rúa I got into the car and headed back home to Salamanca.
Perfect timing for a short Camino; let's hope that things improve and we'll all be able to get back to some sort of normal life again soon.
Keep safe and well. Buen Camino to you all!
for a few hours and followed our version of the Ribera Sacra - Bramber's Norman castle chapel, St Botolphs, that patron of the wayfarer, Coombs with its 11C murals, St Nicolas Old Shoreham and our Russian Princess.
He could teach some manners to those crazy dogs at A Trampilla!!
)
