Food on La Meseta beyond abysmal

[Perambulating Griffin]

I think all these phrases that put different countries at different levels are likely to be fraught. I can well imagine someone taking umbrage at being told their country is still developing while my country is developed, like theirs was not as mature or evolved.

Not to mention that the "developed" countries have massive areas where people struggle with existential threat to their well-being.

 

[Walkalong]

With all due respect, it’s not a problem.

It's just part of what makes a camino the wonderful experience that is can be.

The OP seemed more than a little patronizing, with a touch of victim blaming.

I wonder if it isn’t a reflection on the new wave of the privileged, on a schedule, expecting to be catered to while disturbing the peace, leaving trash, tissue paper and excrement. To what end? A piece of paper? Bragging rights? Checking a box? Whining that they’re ‘not feeling it', yet?

The Caminos are a great testament to the graciousness of those that tolerate and welcome us with kindness. They, and their villages, are not a problem.

 

[CWBuff]

Well... the "abysmal" and "3rd World Country" apparently just scored a Number 1 spot:

The World's Best Burger Is in... Spain

 

[Kirkie]

Sorry I don’t understand re chopsticks. What do you mean?

Forgive me. I used a word that may not be universally understood? What do you call the eating tools in the image?

 

[lalaone]

I think Kirkie is sharing a parable - "long spoons" or "long chopsticks" can both be used to communicate the message

Allegory of the long spoons - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[domigee]

you certainly would get more vegetables in Thailand and Vietnam

We can't have been to the same shops in Spain. What kind of vegetables couldn't you find???

 

[CWBuff]

I think Kirkie is sharing a parable - "long spoons" or "long chopsticks" can both be used to communicate the message

As long as its not "Longshanks"!!!!

 

[SabsP]

Another thought. I find it rather strange or peculiar ( for lack of a better word ) that some pilgrims feel so hesitant to ask a local person for some tips or general advise. Not only when it comes to food btw.
Even if the pilgrim has limited knowledge of Spanish there is mostly a local around who speaks English.
I remember a month ago when I was in Silleda that a pharmacist and I got into a conversation about Compeed and before I knew he gave me a suggestion about a good restaurant in Santiago.

So please for those who feel shy : don't be! Ask politely and you will be surprised! And yes, google maps is handy .

 

[Bob008]

We can't have been to the same shops in Spain. What kind of vegetables couldn't you find???

Well, tell us which pilgrim meals or restaurants along the Camino that serve dishes that consist of a heap of all kinds of sauteed vegetables in a big plate, which is ubiquitous in Thailand/Vietnam at few dollars? No, potatoes do not count.

 

[SabsP]

Well, tell us which pilgrim meals or restaurants along the Camino that serve dishes that consist of a heap of all kinds of sauteed vegetables in a big plate, which is ubiquitous in Thailand/Vietnam at few dollars? No, potatoes do not count.

Verduras a la plancha at Casa Barquiero in Negreira ( en route to Finisterre ) among many other places!

Or this one in Leon!

Carta – Restaurante Alfonso Valderas

restaurantevalderas.com

An example of the menu!

Puerros de Fresno de la Vega con salsa romesco y vinagreta
Verduras a la plancha
Etc etc...
Then again, aside from my first Camino in 2011, I never ate a menu del peregrino on other Caminos.

In Ourense : Maria Tapas.
Lots of veggies.

https://www.happycow.net/reviews/maria-tapas-ourense-250856

 

[Kirkie]

As long as its not "Longshanks"!!!!

According to this wiki entry, I have a new learning for today. Never despair, there is always hope for one new learning at least!
Thanks, @lalaone , and thanks, @CWBuff

Edward I of England - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[peregrina2000]

I haven’t been paying careful attention to this thread, but I think that the OP has unfairly focused on one small segment of the available food on the meseta — the pilgrim menú — and from there generalized about the quality of food overall.

If you limit yourself to pilgrim menus, you will eat food that is intended to be cheap, caloric, easy to prepare, and uninteresting. I’m not knocking it - where else can you get a 3 course meal for 12 euros? But to suggest that it is representative of what Spanish people on the meseta eat, or that it is representative of what is available to you if you “break out” of the pilgrim menú, is just not accurate. It is true that meseta food leans towards heavy meat dishes, but I think pilgrims who are not happy with pilgrim menús have two options — go to the grocery store/fruit and vegetable store and make your own meals; or spend more money and forego the pilgrim menú for either a menú del día or a la carte items on the menu of better restaurants. There are many restaurants in towns on the Camino Francés in the meseta that do not cater to pilgrims and where you can get excellent food.

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

Verduras a la plancha at Casa Barquiero in Negreira ( en route to Finisterre ) among many other places!

Or this one in Leon!

Carta – Restaurante Alfonso Valderas

restaurantevalderas.com

An example of the menu!

Puerros de Fresno de la Vega con salsa romesco y vinagreta
Verduras a la plancha
Etc etc...
Then again, aside from my first Camino in 2011, I never ate a menu del peregrino on other Caminos.

In Ourense : Maria Tapas.
Lots of veggies.

https://www.happycow.net/reviews/maria-tapas-ourense-250856

yep... I've never been in want for a verduras a la plancha, or a massive plate of pimientos de Padrón, a tray of white asparagus and a massive salad with protein added.
Quince with cheese...

I'll take these any day over a plate of slimy, squishy sautéed peppers and strings of carrots.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

These kinds of posts are what give rise to the forbidden "Pilgrim vs. Tourist" arguments.
Pilgrims are responsible for taking care of their own needs. They adjust themselves to the path, they do not demand the path adjust to them. If the restaurants do not meet your demands, go to the grocery store and buy ingredients and make your meals to suit yourself.
Millions of Spaniards do that, every day, and their life expectancy is way longer than most anyone's.
If you don't like what's on offer, do something to fix it. Don't go online and slam an entire region. (Meseta cuisine can be exquisite if you step outside the cheap-and-easy "pilgrim menu" and order from the Carta!)

 

[C clearly]

These kinds of posts are what give rise to the forbidden "Pilgrim vs. Tourist" arguments. Pilgrims are responsible for taking care of their own needs.

When I am a tourist, I am still responsible for taking care of my needs.

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

When I am a tourist, I am still responsible for taking care of my needs.

On both counts... I think what you are really talking about is taking care of one's *desires*....
I don't want to engage in such precision for no reason; the entire hospitalero system does take care of needs, and does it so very well, is so dedicated to that... as I know @Rebekah Scott is (as are so many others here). I don't want to erase that dedication or make it seem as though the needs for safety, shelter and calories won't be there... And let's face it: the very most rudimentary pilgrim meal (and many communal meals are far beyond rudimentary) is far beyond the bread and beer rations that the original monasteries had on offer.

 

[CWBuff]

I had, admittedly not many, a number of vegetarian dishes throughout my walk. OK, maybe they dont compare to the ones from VietNam or Thailand ... but why compare? We are not in either of those places! By that standard I should make a big fuss about Ensalata Russa which is not quit the same as it would be in either Russia or Ukraine... but thats what the dish is in Spain, and so it shall be.
very good billimbob in Albergue Orion in Castrojeriz, a very plentiful and satisfying vegetarian dinner at Albergue El Beso... I dont know if the veggies were 'as fresh as Vietnamese' but they surely didnt smell funny

 

[TravellingMan22]

View attachment 178555
Forgive me. I used a word that may not be universally understood? What do you call the eating tools in the image?

I know what they they are (I use them all the time) but didn’t understand the context of your comment. .

 

[domigee]

Well, tell us which pilgrim meals or restaurants along the Camino that serve dishes that consist of a heap of all kinds of sauteed vegetables in a big plate, which is ubiquitous in Thailand/Vietnam at few dollars? No, potatoes do not count.

I must admit I haven't had a pilgrim meal for a long time, in fact since my 1st camino in 2012, I never liked the main course nor the pudding! (I am not a big meat eater and I prefer cheese to sweet dishes). But I never suffered from lack of food or 'abysmal' food in Spain! Whichever region...

If you order a 'menu del dia' like the locals do, you'll have much more choice. As others above have mentioned, you can also get a big plate of vegetables a la plancha.

Also look at their 'carta': in season, they have wonderful dishes of small artichokes (alcachofas) cooked on a parrilla, broad beans (habas), leeks in vinagreta (puerros), always a wonderful tomato salad etc etc
It'll probably coast more than in Thailand or Vietnam (never been to Vietnam but used to go to Thailand frequently) but... it is certainly cheaper than my own country (France) and definitely much much cheaper than the country I live in (England).

Try it next time, I don't think you'll be disappointed
I am not just saying this to you of course but to any others who may have had problems with food on the Camino.

If on a budget, the alternative is to buy your own ingredients (they WILL be available) and share with other pilgrims. Unless it's a Sunday or a fiesta day lol (But I have had small shops opening especially for us pilgrims on the VdlP!)

 

[Dani7]

The OP started a big pot of hot sauce and then left the kitchen. Has not been online in the forum since Wednesday.

 

[TravellingMan22]

Indeed. Shame he’s been run out of town though he didn’t help himself. He is professionally qualified so it’s good to have those sort of people on board, and a broader debate may have been useful. I didn’t agree with him at all, and his manner was not the best, and I think they were some good responses, but I also think some are too quick to ‘write off’ anyone who is remotely critical of anything on the Camino. Just an observation maybe for another day.

 

[ParisOslo]

The OP started a big pot of hot sauce and then left the kitchen. Has not been online in the forum since Wednesday.

Perhaps it is time to close this discussion.

 

[VNwalking]

The OP may have disappeared, but it's worth saying again before the thread closes: don't go for the cheap and not so nice pilgrim menu. Menu del día choices are always much more tasty, even for vegetarians (I tend to order 2 primero, thus avoiding the meat and fish).

The game-changer for me was realizing I could eat the big meal of the day in early to mid afternoon, and that's usually enough. That time of day Spanish restaurants are open, and menus del día available.

 

[Dani7]

I don’t know much having only done one Camino, the Frances last year… but one thing I do know following this forum for 7 years now, is most of us are quite passionate and somehow tied forever to the unforgettable experiences we had and shared along « The Way ». Members and moderators contribute so much to helping and supporting each other with all things camino.

I agree with @TravellingMan22. Words matter. The OP used words that perhaps rattled our wonderful memories of the camino, including the Meseta however we should be able to share our opinions, even when it awakens uncomfortable and not so positive feelings…as long as we respect the forum rules of conduct.

None of the rules were broken in my view in this thread.

 

[Hertsseasider]

Foreign country has different eating habits shocker !!!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

like your last line, “solve the problem”, but that requires that a problem be recognized. It seems to me that many do not see this as a problem, but for the OP, for me, and maybe others, it was a problem that deserves attention. It can certainly be challenging to come up with solutions that would be realistic, respectful of the local customs while at the same time addressing the challenges facing the pilgrims. “It’s their country” is accurate, but is that a reason to not attempt to address an issue

You are of course correct: it is a problem that needs addressing.
I think the point being raised by many is that as pilgrims it is us that should address the problem not the locals.

It is true that many of us who have responded have either walked a number of camino's and/or have traveled extensively. This means that we are used to addressing these issues, and have long since come up with solutions. Yes, it takes a little extra effort - looking for an open Tienda/ supermarket at the end of the day when all you want to do is sit and put your feet up is not always optimal. Especially when it's raining! Making the effort can however improve our overall experience substantially.

Carrying a couple of long life yogurt drinks and a bag of nuts, a banana and a tin of tuna, cheese etc to supplement our diet adds weight to our rucksacks.
But better to have yoghurt, bananas and tuna than a packet of chocolate biscuits or some cupcakes. Not that I don't enjoy those too: however as you yourself found sweet snacks were frequently available in cafes and vending machines, quality snacks not so often.

This approach is exactly what has happened with wayfinding : you mentioned the arrows. For some, this is not enough, and they still get lost. So others ( not the locals) developed various apps. Problems with finding accommodation? Likewise.

Absolutely, when nothing physically exists then of course that needs to be addressed at a local level. But needs create opportunity and when sufficient opportunity exists sooner or later somebody will step into fill that gap.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Well, tell us which pilgrim meals or restaurants along the Camino that serve dishes that consist of a heap of all kinds of sauteed vegetables in a big plate, which is ubiquitous in Thailand/Vietnam at few dollars? No, potatoes do not count.

Firstly, there isn't a "the Camino", there are many Caminos across Spain. This is, I think, key to understanding your options when you walk towards Santiago in Spain.

I am loath to compare prices between Spain and Thailand/Vietnam because there are many variables and so I will ignore that aspect of your question.

Somewhere above your question someone posted an explanation of some of the cultural aspects of different regions of Spain. The potato holds a special place in the cuisine of some areas in Spain and beyond that during relatively recent history the Spanish government at that time passed laws that required a "menu del día" that was required to be offered at a relatively low price.

Those laws are no longer in place but they created a tradition that many small restaurants still follow because their customers often requested it. From this concept many small restaurants that often served pilgrims also developed a cheaper version that they call a pilgrim menu or something similar because their customers requested it.

Given the requirements for low cost most of these menus feature a lot of carbohydrates because carbs are cheap and provide energy. Potatoes, beans and other cheap vegetables usually feature, depending on the region.

Of course, if you and other pilgrims on the Camino Frances want to look further afield you will find a greater variety of food at a variety of prices.

I posted some photos earlier in the thread, mostly in a spirit of fun but all those dishes were purchased in places that are part of established Camino de Santiago paths and some of them are from the Camino Frances just a month or two ago.

The food that you desire is available if you want to go look for it, it may not be at Thailand or Vietnam prices but Spain isn't Thailand or Vietnam.

If you are interested in the tradition of menu del día then look on the Internet and here is a couple of random ones (via Google search) to get you going.

The Spanish Menu del Día (Menu of the Day)

Conceived by a dictator, a tradition that cheaply opens up local eating opportunities

blairmastbaum.substack.com

The strange history and brilliance of Spain’s Menu del Dia

Franco did a lot of terrible things, to be sure, but one thing he did right: create the Menu del Dia. In 1964, he designed a set-price menu…

medium.com

The Menu del Dia is the Economical Way to Dine in Spain

The menu del dia is the most economical way to eat the large midday meal in Spain. It has three generous courses for a single price, including drinks.

www.thespruceeats.com

 

[dreaming]

My problem is that I am a slow walker and would be even slower if I stopped and had a big lunch in the middle of the day followed by a couple more hours walking. I only like to snack walking. It makes me feel uncomfortable if I eat a big lunch and then walk. I will just have to visit the supermarket on arrival for extras.

 

[dougfitz]

I like your last line, “solve the problem”, but that requires that a problem be recognized. It seems to me that many do not see this as a problem, but for the OP, for me, and maybe others, it was a problem that deserves attention. It can certainly be challenging to come up with solutions that would be realistic, respectful of the local customs while at the same time addressing the challenges facing the pilgrims. “It’s their country” is accurate, but is that a reason to not attempt to address an issue?

I agree that there might be a problem to address, but I am concerned about correctly identifying what the problem might be, and who might be best placed to resolve the issues. I would also be very concerned to ensure that it starts with looking at what we do or change doing as pilgrims to use what is available to support us, and not with what locals should be doing differently to make our lives more convenient.

 

[C clearly]

I will just have to visit the supermarket on arrival for extras.

NO, don't rely on doing that, as mentioned mamy times in the thread. There is no guarantee of an open supermarket at the right place and right time every day! You should carry some food to supply the "extras".