Food on La Meseta beyond abysmal

[Paul288]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Meseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Meseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Meseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

 

[Corned Beef]

An interesting observation. Personally I enjoy the 'help' I get in losing some weight but agree that the correct nutrition is important if you intend to complete the whole Frances in one go.

What would you recommend those cooking for themselves should aim for - or seek out from the tienda along the way?

 

[dougfitz]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

I presume you are talking about the Meseta here in this.

If it was evident to you that you weren't getting sufficient, well balanced meals from albergues and other places you stayed, what did you do in response? There is no promise, on the camino or anywhere else, that your nutritional needs will be completely satisfied by the food made available in albergues, cafes and similar establishments. Other than in some limited circumstances like prisons, ships at sea and perhaps some remote mining sites, it would clearly be up to you to ensure that you satisfied yourself on this score. It doesn't seem to me anyone's responsibility but your own that your nutritional needs are satisfied. If that means supplementing what is being provided in albergues, cafes, etc by purchasing appropriate food supplies along the way, that is as much part of the camino journey as anything else.

The only person I would be disappointed in here is you. You claim to have the specialist knowledge to understand what your needs were, and where any shortfalls were present. If you did nothing about it, posting here to blame 'people in hospitality' doesn't seem to be a rational response.

 

[davejsy]

I mean, that will be an awful shame if that is all you remember of your Camino. I think everyone is free to eat where they choose though, and many places on the Meseta have different eating options at varying budgets, a bit like happens in real life. I don't recall one single bad meal on my Meseta (nearly all in Albergues) that would prompt me to such a post, maybe your expectations were too high, or maybe you're just having a bad day. Hopefully the rest of your Camino will be better if you are able to continue.

 

[J Willhaus]

I don't recall finding it difficult to find filling and nourishing food on this stretch, but I often cook for myself and others at albergues. Lentils, chickpeas, eggs, and cheese were usually available. I found fruit and vegetables in season also available.

A pilgrim meal was not usually my first choice, although a menu del dia in midafternoon was usually quite good followed by a light supper made in the albergue common kitchen.

I do also like bocadillos, but usually stop at the bakery to buy my own fresh bread and make my own along the way with butter, cheese, and ham. I am curious if you tried self catering or just ate at restaurants?

 

[Anhalter]

Hmmm. Weird.
While i am not a nutritionist or anything of the sort i travel to spain for some decades and do have a very healthy opinion about food.
Actually i was quite happy with what i found in the Meseta. Both times. Yes, due to the smaller size of the villages there is not as much choice as elsewhere and some days you might have to bite the bullet and go for pork with fries... but on most days i got pretty cheap, balanced and tasty meals. Actually the only place i did have some problems was in Reliegos, but even there is an albergue known for making decent dinner (in which i did not get a place unfortunately so we got what little the market had to offer and cooked).
Let's maybe put your experience down to bad luck?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

Whilst I personally found portion sizes (in all respects) on camino more than adequate I appreciate that I eat less than others.
I agree that the Spanish idea of breakfast is not adequate for myself, and I hate those plastic wrapped items. I eat pilgrims menus occasionally but much prefer the menu del dia, or exploring the local cuisine. Whilst not always on the menu in spite of my lousy Spanish I generally was able to obtain an excellent omelette and salad. (A simple smile and attempt to communicate was generally all it took; of course it may have helped that occasionally I helped clear the plates).

As others suggested I personally ensured that I always purchased other supplies. Yoghurt, yoghurt drinks, eggs, tuna/ chorizo, fresh fruit, carrots etc to snack on - the list goes on. Whilst it is true that some of the villages have limited or even zero shopping options it's not as if we are without warning. The responsibility is ours; the information readily available in this technological age.

As to opening times: you're in Spain, it's what the Spanish people do. With the exception of very highly touristic areas it's how it is in places like Greece too.
Remember: you are the visitor.

 

[LTfit]

I'm vegan so my protein source on the Camino is basically the same as that at home - chick peas and lentils. Add to that some vegetables and maybe a carb source such rice or pasta (which I usually don't eat since beans also are a source of carbs) and you have a well balanced meal. If you don't like what's offered cook yourself.

I don't expect restaurants to cater to my particular needs, especially on remote and solitary routes although I have been seeing lots of positive posts on our Vegetarians and Vegans on the Camino Facebook page about restaurants on the Francés and Portuguese routes. If a vegan can find nutritious food anyone else should be able to do so, just stay away from your standard pilgrim menu.

 

[DuncanG]

We had no problem on the Meseta when walking last October. We looked for Albergues with cooking facilities whenever possible and always found some food in whatever stores there were, even in tiny Calzadilla de los Hermanillos on an alternate route. But we had great meals in Rabé de las Calzadas at Albergue Liberanos Domine, Hontanas at Albergue Santa Brígada, Villamentero de Campos at Albergue Amanecer, Calzadilla de La Cueza at Alojamiento Los Canarios and the list goes on.
Sorry in your case that the food did not meet your expectations or you missed these wonderful albergues.

 

[trecile]

Calzadilla de La Cueza at Alojamiento Los Canarios and the list goes on.

I had the best pilgrim dinner at Los Canarios! Homemade gazpacho as a first course, and delicious roasted lemon chicken with roasted potatoes (no French fries!) with red pepper puree as the main course. Yummm!

 

[naplesdon]

Some of the top restaurants in Spain are located in town in the Meseta.

 

[Paul288]

Doug…I am talking about “availability” of nutritious food along the route, including supplementary to that available in albergues, restaurants, or otherwise…not an inability to look after myself, or a lack of money or other resources to buy or prepare food where there were options to do so.

I have traveled extensively in the world and have eaten better in third world countries.

You cannot buy or prepare what is not available.

I presume you are talking about the Meseta here in this.

If it was evident to you that you weren't getting sufficient, well balanced meals from albergues and other places you stayed, what did you do in response? There is no promise, on the camino or anywhere else, that your nutritional needs will be completely satisfied by the food made available in albergues, cafes and similar establishments. Other than in some limited circumstances like prisons, ships at sea and perhaps some remote mining sites, it would clearly be up to you to ensure that you satisfied yourself on this score. It doesn't seem to me anyone's responsibility but your own that your nutritional needs are satisfied. If that means supplementing what is being provided in albergues, cafes, etc by purchasing appropriate food supplies along the way, that is as much part of the camino journey as anything else.

The only person I would be disappointed in here is you. You claim to have the specialist knowledge to understand what your needs were, and where any shortfalls were present. If you did nothing about it, posting here to blame 'people in hospitality' doesn't seem to be a rational response.

 

[t2andreo]

I ALWAYS travel with powdered protein supplements. This tops my protein needs off every day. I usually manage to find enough protein on the local economy.

Generally, I start the day with a serving of flavored protein powder dissolved in water. I will even add a powdered coffee "single" packet for added flavor and the caffeine rush to get me started.

I recommend doing better research and planing ahead next time. You can pick up temperature stable, protein-rich foods in Carrion de los Condes, before heading out on the main part of the Meseta. I have bought pre-cooked ham and hard cheeses in the Dia supermarket there, and made a full "loaf" of ham and cheese sandwiches using whole wheat bread. That sufficed for a couple of days. I like ham and cheese sandwiches.

You can add canned fish, nuts, and other protein rich foods if your prefer.

IMHO, no one gets seriously malnourished or starves, without going out of their way to do so. Adapting to your surroundings and environment is the key concept here.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[Paul288]

By the looks of the comments here most of the respondents had a much better experience. I’m glad to hear that.
Unfortunately several people I spoke to along the route the last couple of weeks said the same as I have said here. So see what you think next time those of you comparing to an experience several years ago.

The route was also extremely busy…coming into October and most albergues in smaller towns full each day. The people working in places seemed exhausted and disinterested
and that was reflected in the food served in multiple places.

 

[Paul288]

I mean, that will be an awful shame if that is all you remember of your Camino. I think everyone is free to eat where they choose though, and many places on the Meseta have different eating options at varying budgets, a bit like happens in real life. I don't recall one single bad meal on my Meseta (nearly all in Albergues) that would prompt me to such a post, maybe your expectations were too high, or maybe you're just having a bad day. Hopefully the rest of your Camino will be better if you are able to continue.

Thanks! I had lots of other great experiences and have more Camino to do in the years ahead. The food is an important part of any travel experience though and it does take away from the overall experience in my opinion when the food is bad.

 

[Suzanne A]

My answer: supplement with nuts, hard boiled eggs and yogurt, signed a vegetarian

 

[Paul288]

I ALWAYS travel with powdered protein supplements. This tops my protein needs off every day. I usually manage to find enough protein on the local economy.

Generally, I start the day with a serving of flavored protein powder dissolved in water. I will even add a powdered coffee "single" packet for added flavor and the caffeine rush to get me started.

I recommend doing better research and planing ahead next time. You can pick up temperature stable, protein-rich foods in Carrion de los Condes, before heading out on the main part of the Meseta. I have bought pre-cooked ham and hard cheeses in the Dia supermarket there, and made a full "loaf" of ham and cheese sandwiches using whole wheat bread. That sufficed for a couple of days. I like ham and cheese sandwiches.

You can add canned fish, nuts, and other protein rich foods if your prefer.

IMHO, no one gets seriously malnourished or starves, without going out of their way to do so. Adapting to your surroundings and environment is the key concept here.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Protein bars or powder is a good strategy. I had some bars.
No, no one starves or gets seriously malnourished, but Spain is not a third world country yet I have eaten better in third world countries than on this section of the Camino.

 

[obinjatoo]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

Alrighty then. I dunno. Last time I checked, Spaniards didn't enter into the world to serve pilgrims. Always struck me as sort of a side gig. I found enough freshies to carry a few days and was grateful for ANYTHING I got to eat. Ate exactly 1 Pilgrim's dinner and that was enough for me. Just completed my 3rd walk to Santiago and found enough. It's only temporary. I'll be home soon to my first world country where I can eat whatever I want. Not THAT different from what I found in Spain. I eat simple and not so much. With lower expectations EVERYTHING is pretty good.

 

[Paul288]

An interesting observation. Personally I enjoy the 'help' I get in losing some weight but agree that the correct nutrition is important if you intend to complete the whole Frances in one go.

What would you recommend those cooking for themselves should aim for - or seek out from the tienda along the way?

Many people have made suggestions already. Adequate protein is important so I would bring protein bars, or buy eggs or nuts whenever you have a chance, although not all places had a kitchen I found.
As for weight loss….there is such an abundance of carbohydrates. The issue is less not enough food available, but too much garbage food.

 

[Paul288]

Alrighty then. I dunno. Last time I checked, Spaniards didn't enter into the world to serve pilgrims. Always struck me as sort of a side gig. I found enough freshies to carry a few days and was grateful for ANYTHING I got to eat. Ate exactly 1 Pilgrim's dinner and that was enough for me. Just completed my 3rd walk to Santiago and found enough. It's only temporary. I'll be home soon to my first world country where I can eat whatever I want. Not THAT different from what I found in Spain. I eat simple and not so much. With lower expectations EVERYTHING is pretty good.

Many Spanish people make a living off the Camino. Glad you had a good experience overall. I did too…except for the food.

 

[Jarrad]

I don't recall the meseta specifically being a challenge, but it has been a while. I recall my body's reaction to the first week on the CdF and my craving for protein. The nuts, beans and cheese were not doing it for me. I think the trick is not to depend on just the pilgrim's menu. I did find protein-rich meals to meet my needs and they were such a morale boost for me. I can still taste the braised cow tongue I had with a rich, red Rioja wine (tongue is not something I'd not normally order, much less see on the menu in the US and my goodness was it delectable!). There was the turkey leg and thigh covered in a silky, rich gravy in Puenta la Reina. And then the massive paella in Los Arcos, full of shrimp and chicken. OK, now I need to go get an early lunch!

 

[David Tallan]

You seem to have had some terrible luck. I've never had such an issue finding protein on the meseta: whether it was in tortilla for breakfast, tuna and eggs on a mixed salad in the first course of a menu del dia, or as meat or fish or poultry in the second course of a menu del dia. In addition, I didn't find the grocery stores or supermarkets completely devoid of protein (sausages of different kinds, cheese, canned fish, etc.) to the point that I could not supply my own, as you seem to have found. It really is strange. But I can't dispute your personal experience. All I can say is that mine differed.

 

[K_Lynn]

I imagine that at most albergues that provide meals make simple dishes because they are feeding a large amount of people in one go. Any restaurant that offers a pilgrim meal, will also have a full menu to choose from. I stopped in whatever grocery store was available and picked up bananas, nuts, cheese and other snacks I wanted for the next day when I got into town.

The ensalata mixta is always a good option (if you eat fish and eggs) for lunch. Many places had lentil soups. Bacon and eggs were offered on lunch menus as well.

I'm allergic to garlic, so I was often challenged at meal times, but somehow I survived. I made sure that I had my supply of "emergency rations" so that I could shove calories into my face when I wanted or needed.

I'm sorry you feel that your dietary needs were not being met. Perhaps next time order two main courses if one is not large enough.

 

[HBS60]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

I agree 100% with you.

My food experience in my recent Camino was very stressful and frustrating. Besides the limited choices, the unpredictable meal times made it worse. I never knew what would be available, or when. Every town seemed to be different, making it hard to plan when bars/stores would be closed at different times.

Several responses here seem dismissive (not necessarily intentionally or maliciously) but I think you raise a very valid concern that deserves to be addressed. I do recognize that many of these towns seemed to be struggling, so I would think more in terms of how can these towns be helped?

 

[Molly Cassidy]

I suppose it depends what you're used to. I don't think you necessarily need huge amounts of protein, but if that's what you're used to it might be a problem. The times you want to eat may not be the times Spanish people eat. It would be better to adjust your eating pattern to have the menu del dia as a main meal then eat less in the evening.

In general, I didn't find Spanish food lacking in protein, but pilgrim menus will be budget options with less expensive foods.

 

[markie6]

Can't say I have ever felt disappointed in my dinner while on camino. Usually I am very hungry and I enjoy what I am given. It's cheaper and perhaps different to what I am used to back home, I have always walked in busy times towards start of Sept and into October

I didn't have many expectations though. You often get what you pay for, happily I have always felt ok with that. I have always thought it was me who needed to adapt to the Camino and not the other way round

Your observations are of course your own, for my part I have only ever had cause to to moan about the other pilgrims and very rarely those working to make my Camino a great experience. YMMV of course

 

[SabsP]

Did you visit any supermercado? Surely you noticed the fresh counter of fruit and veg?
Ok, only Burgos and Leon have the big Mercadona but smaller towns on the Meseta have supermarkets like Lupa ( Carrion de los Condes ) or Proxim ( Castrojeriz ) or Casa Ruiz ( Fromista ).

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Somos tus Vecinos de Confianza y así queremos que lo sientas cada vez que visites cualquiera de nuestros supermercados ubicados en Cantabria, Castilla y León y La Rioja.

www.lupa.com

Edit: the selection from Eroski.

Vegetables and leafy vegetables

Buy Vegetables and leafy vegetables at the Eroski online supermarket and get top quality at the best price

supermercado.eroski.es

 

[AnneO]

I admit I am not a picky eater, but I didn’t find the food on the Meseta to be any worse than elsewhere on the Camino. One of my best meals of the entire Camino was a mushroom pasta dish at Albergue La Morena in Ledigos.

I think saying the food in any part of Spain is worse than a third-world country is utterly ridiculous. It is OK to not like the food you find along the way as we all have different preferences and dietary needs, but no one is going hungry on the Camino unless they choose to do so. I from time to time felt bored with the lack of variety in Pilgrim menus, but I solved that by choosing other things. There is plenty of food to be had, unlike in some third-world countries where people are literally starving from lack of food.

 

[domigee]

Doug…I am talking about “availability” of nutritious food along the route, including supplementary to that available in albergues, restaurants, or otherwise…not an inability to look after myself, or a lack of money or other resources to buy or prepare food where there were options to do so.

I have traveled extensively in the world and have eaten better in third world countries.

You cannot buy or prepare what is not available.

I really don't understand what you're on about..

 

[SabsP]

I agree 100% with you.

My food experience in my recent Camino was very stressful and frustrating. Besides the limited choices, the unpredictable meal times made it worse. I never knew what would be available, or when. Every town seemed to be different, making it hard to plan when bars/stores would be closed at different times.

Several responses here seem dismissive (not necessarily intentionally or maliciously) but I think you raise a very valid concern that deserves to be addressed. I do recognize that many of these towns seemed to be struggling, so I would think more in terms of how can these towns be helped?

Schedule your walking hours around the menu del dia ( always follow the locals ) and for a couple of euros more you will have decent and nutricous food. With other words : stay away from the pilgrim's menu or the bocadillos.
Really easy solution.

 

[Pelegrin]

but Spain is not a third world country yet

Sorry, I am Spanish. This is what you really meant? Do you think I should sell my shares as soon as possible?

 

[davejsy]

So see what you think next time those of you comparing to an experience several years ago.

Well I was only referring to my experience less than one year ago, but yes of course things might have changed since then.

The people working in places seemed exhausted and disinterested
and that was reflected in the food served in multiple places.

This I can kind of relate to, apart from it leading to poor meals. Infact I had much sympathy for the hospiteleros who'd endured a busy and long season and their resolve to still carry on trying to look after the increased pilgrim numbers so late in the year.

I didn't go on the Camino though expecting amazing nutritiously balanced food, so my expectations were more reasonable in that respect as it is after all a freely undertaken Pilgrimage, not a gastronomy tour.

 

[HBS60]

Schedule your walking hours around the menu del dia ( always follow the locals ) and for a couple of euros more you will have decent and nutricous food. With other words : stay away from the pilgrim's menu or the bocadillos.
Really easy solution.

Um, , that’s not how it happened for me. There is no predictable meal hours from one town to the next. Does the kitchen opens ant 5, 6, 7, or 8 pm?? I tried to order the menu del día a few times but it seemed that it was at the wrong time. With my difficulties in moving through difficult terrain, I could not time my arrivals to the right time. If a place (or the kitchen) is closed at different times in different towns, I don’t know how I can find out or schedule my walking hours. Even when I asked, the information many times was inconsistent and/or inaccurate.
That was my experience, despite my efforts to follow the advice given here and elsewhere. I’m glad it worked for many people but it didn’t work for me.

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

Thanks! I had lots of other great experiences and have more Camino to do in the years ahead. The food is an important part of any travel experience though and it does take away from the overall experience in my opinion when the food is bad.

If you can slow yourself down and go into the experience with an open mind, the Benedictine Monastery in Rabanal will feed you in a beautiful setting with food so beautiful you will be grateful for the imposed silence that allows one to focus on the incredible generosity of those who have prepared it for you.
The albergue next door to the monastery, run by one of the confraternities, is reported to have a very nice communal meal. I haven’t eaten further east than Carrion de los Condes in many years and cannot speak to the stretch from Burgos to there, but the albergue La Moreña in Ledigos was also wonderful when I was last there.
I will have to be more attentive to protein and less to carb-loading on future caminos, but I have always been grateful for the sort of ‘down to a science’ for what a pilgrim needed, in concordance with what was available…

 

[C clearly]

I agree that the pilgrim meals can become tedious. However, I never expect albergues to fill my nutritional needs. I am very happy with some warmth and calories if no better meal is available. Some towns may have limited selection of restaurants - in fact the seasonal (and budget-conscious) nature of the pilgrim crowds might make it very difficult for first-class restaurants to survive. Presumably the local people have their own shopping patterns that we are not always familiar with, and cannot follow while we are walking the Camino.

So, I always carry enough calories to survive a dinner and breakfast if necessary. A day or two of less than optimal nutrition is not a disaster, in my opinion.

Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

You may be right here. Similarly I get lazy on the Camino and don't bother to organize an ideal meal for myself because I am tired and hungry. However, I don't expect someone else to do it for me!

There is no predictable meal hours from one town to the next. Does the kitchen opens ant 5, 6, 7, or 8 pm??

The Spaniards eat at fairly predictable times, and that does not include 5 or 6 pm, except for tapas. The menú del día is typically between about 1 and 3:30 pm, and the cena is typically from 8-10 pm or so. These hours don't work too well for pilgrims. Therefore, on the Camino Frances, the meal hours have been "corrupted" by the pilgrim traffic. Many restaurants try to adapt their hours to meet the pilgrim preferences, but not all choose to do it the same way. It would also be difficult for them to handle the variable numbers of pilgrims in different seasons, and a huge rush of cheap customers at 5-8 pm.

That is why one must assume that food might not be available when one wants, and therefore go prepared with supplies to meet one's individual needs or an "emergency" situation.

 

[domigee]

Um, , that’s not how it happened for me. There is no predictable meal hours from one town to the next. Does the kitchen opens ant 5, 6, 7, or 8 pm?? I tried to order the menu del día a few times but it seemed that it was at the wrong time. With my difficulties in moving through difficult terrain, I could not time my arrivals to the right time. If a place (or the kitchen) is closed at different times in different towns, I don’t know how I can find out or schedule my walking hours. Even when I asked, the information many times was inconsistent and/or inaccurate.
That was my experience, despite my efforts to follow the advice given here and elsewhere. I’m glad it worked for many people but it didn’t work for me.

Menu del dia is only at lunchtime, from approx. 2.pm to 3.30 pm.
Evening meals start at around 8 pm, usually more often 8.30 pm.

 

[John1968]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

at least you did not die of starvation!

 

[HBS60]

The Spaniards eat at fairly predictable times, and that does not include 5 or 6 pm, except for tapas. The menú del día is typically between about 1 and 3:30 pm, and the cena is typically from 8-10 pm or so. These hours don't work too well for pilgrims. Therefore, on the Camino Frances, the meal hours have been "corrupted" by the pilgrim traffic. Many restaurants try to adapt their hours to meet the pilgrim preferences, but not all choose to do it the same way. It would also be difficult for them to handle the variable numbers of pilgrims in different seasons, and a huge rush of cheap customers at 5-8 pm.

That is why one must assume that food might not be available when one wants, and therefore go prepared with supplies to meet one's individual needs or an "emergency" situation.

That makes sense. As I said earlier, many of the smaller towns seem to be struggling, so I’m not trying to be critical of them, rather, I wish there was a way of improving the situation while also respecting the local customs. For me, it was the unpredictability that seemed most problematic because it made planning much more difficult. The timeframes you describe was not what I found, it was all over the place. Some places I could have a good meal at 5pm but in others I would have to wait until 8pm, I could not make sense of it. I’ll also say I had some memorable great meals, and I fell in love with Patatas a la Riojana, I also had some great community meals. So it wasn’t all bad.
So, how can the nutritional needs of pilgrims be met without burdening the local population or disrupting their way of life? Is there room for improvement? I don’t have the answers, but I think the OPs point remains valid.

 

[alexwalker]

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

I disagree.

The Mediterranian diet is world-known for its healthiness. Maybe that's why you find few obese people there, who also live longer than in most of other parts of the world.

In some other Western countries, obesity is a huge problem. Not in countries like Greece, Italy or Spain.

The Spanish are doing as best as they can to feed pilgrims. IMHO, they do a fair job.

During many Caminos, I have never had a food problem: I take a piece of tortilla, with a glass of wine or beer (both health recommended), I eat tuna, mussels, chickpeas, omelettes, choriso, olives, and try to eat like the locals. After all, their life expectancy is much higher than mine even if I am not from an obese country.

The menu del dia is what the Spanish eat: I am OK with that, to say the least.

So if you lose weight while on the Camino, it may be a good thing for you.

Go to the local mercado, buy the stuff you need (chickpeas, vegetable soup, choriso, eggs, bread, some wine, etc.) and make your your own protein-rich dinner, preferably sharing costs with other pilgrims, and enjoy.

I am just home from 5 weeks in Crete, Greece. Most tourists were unbelievably obese. They should do a Camino or two.

quote: "The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental".

I have no interest in endurance sports: I am a 70-year old pilgrim, I weigh 75 kgs, and I am well fed in Spain.

True, the Camino is mostly not a Michelin star environment, but who gives a sh*t. That's not why we are there.

 

[Anamiri]

Many Spanish people make a living off the Camino. Glad you had a good experience overall. I did too…except for the food.

I walked a few months ago, and found plenty of good food to eat on the Meseta. I dont rely on the pilgrim menu, it depends on the town, and I adjust my mealtimes to match what's open. My guide book (the little green Michelin one) gives me a quick visual of the services available in each town, and I will buy ahead and take with me if the destination town doesn't have much on offer.
I generally have two breakfasts and then a meal in the late afternoon/early evening, and a snack later. I do eat out but also will buy and prepare my own.
I was sick this year for several weeks, which included the Meseta, encountered horrible weather, and sometimes felt like just napping. But I made a point of more Zumo than usual, and protein items, as I didnt always feel like eating.
Thinking back though I had some memorable meals in Fromista, Villalcazar de Sirga (unexpected), Sahagun, and Mansilla de las Mulas. In earlier years Ive also stayed in Poblacion de Campos and had an excellent meal there. Reliegos is the town I've always had trouble finding food, I walk on to Mansilla de las Mulas.

Im sure the Spanish people do get quite burned out and sick of pilgrims by the end of the Camino season.

 

[C clearly]

The timeframes you describe was not what I found, it was all over the place. Some places I could have a good meal at 5pm but in others I would have to wait until 8pm, I could not make sense of it

The time frames I described (1-3:30 pm and 8-10 pm, give or take 30 minutes) are quite reliable for restaurants in Spain.

If the hours were all over the place, it is because they were adding hours in some places to accommodate pilgrims. You cannot count on those extra hours!

 

[Donna Sch]

Maybe it is just the CF. My previous caminos were good quality food (VDLP/Levante/Invierno) with just the odd town having awkward hours and a lack of options. But that was a few years ago.
I avoid the obvious pilgrim menus. I tend to be plant based in my eating and normally don't eat meat except for fish at home. And I do keep an eye on my macros every now and then so was prioritising protein. And in my Camino planning I take note of people's reports of shops and good food.

 

[MelMc]

Excuse the pun mate, But SUCK IT UP, it's the Camino not a food odyssey

 

[AlanSykes]

I'm not an expert on the Francés meseta and its food. But, last 1 November (a public holiday), I arrived from Sahagún in Mansillas de las Mulas at about 3.40pm. On the outskirts of town, I'd got talking (about dear dead friends, claro, given the day) to a local out walking her dog. I mentioned that I wasn't expecting much in the way of lunch, given the time, given the day. At which point she marched me to El Hórreo restaurant, run by a friend of hers, and insisted he feed me. It was packed with families noisily reminiscing about loved ones, but he managed to squeeze me in all the same. And soon I was tucking in to some tasty clams and then a delicious stew of bacalao with potatoes, washed down with a glass of Rías Baixas. People tripping over my rucksack quickly became an ice-breaker, so I ended up chatting to more people in one hour (¡Desde Sagunt! No me digas) than in the whole of my previous solitary month walking from the mediterranean. A great meal and a happy memory.

 

[HBS60]

The time frames I described (1-3:30 pm and 8-10 pm, give or take 30 minutes) are quite reliable for restaurants in Spain.

If the hours were all over the place, it is because they were adding hours in some places to accommodate pilgrims. You cannot count on those extra hours!

That was not my understanding when I went into this. I’ve been under the impression (now completely dispelled) that everything closed from 2-5 PM, so my experience was bewildering as an inexperienced rookie, as I could never make sense on why in some places I could eat at certain times but it would be different in another town. It seemed more predictable in bigger cities but I simply couldn’t grasp the logistics of it, when I was told something different each time. That was my experience. Add to that the different “Dias de descanso”, the exhaustion after walking 20+km/day and feeling too tired to walk a single additional step (particularly with blisters), arriving mid afternoon to find out that the only store in town was closed and the following day had nothing available for 10+Km, made it very challenging. I’m sure those more experienced than me can figure these things out quickly, but for me it was a very steep learning curve.

 

[Robo]

Never had a problem….
If living on Pilgrim menus, that can get a bit bland and lacking in vegetables.
Breakfast is not really a thing in Spain, but that is an easy workaround, with ‘second breakfast’ mid morning.
Learning to order bacon and eggs was a major game changer!

Main meal at lunch, menu del dia, works well for us. Much more variety.
And like most do, we supplement the meals with snacks like fruit, protein bars, nuts…

We also take the opportunity to snack at bars with tasty tapas, soups and the like.

It just takes a bit of effort to seek out variety at times.

The cheaper pilgrim meals are there to satisfy a demand. They are competitively priced, and made to a budget….. but are easy to supplement….

 

[C clearly]

everything closed from 2-5 PM

"Everything" being the stores and offices, because everyone is eating their mid-day meal!

P.S. I don't mean to seem argumentative or critical - I am just trying to explain the situation, and advise people to always carry some "emergency" food.

 

[dreaming]

I too found pilgrims meals poor quality. I was too lazy to supplement at the supermarkets. Next time I will have to make more effort. Sometimes I didn't want to eat dinner at 8 pm so would go to a bar and have frozen pizza. I found that it was difficult to obtain vegetables in a pilgrims menu despite Spain having vegetables galore. More effort required on my part or eating at lunchtime.

 

[trecile]

My pilgrim meal "hack" is to order two first courses and no second course because often there are two (or more) items offered for the primer plato that are appealing to me, like salad and lentil soup, or salad and pasta.

 

[dougfitz]

Doug…I am talking about “availability” of nutritious food along the route, including supplementary to that available in albergues, restaurants, or otherwise

Did you visit any supermercado? Surely you noticed the fresh counter of fruit and veg?
Ok, only Burgos and Leon have the big Mercadona but smaller towns on the Meseta have supermarkets like Lupa ( Carrion de los Condes ) or Proxim ( Castrojeriz ) or Casa Ruiz ( Fromista ).

I also looked at the services available in towns listed on Gronze. Every (Gronze) stage from Burgos to Ponferrada has at least one village or town where Gronze shows its shopping basket icon. It's not any more specific than that, so not possible to tell from Gronze alone whether these are easily identifiable supermarkets and specialist tiendas, or a room set aside in a bar or house. Most of the latter that I shopped at were well stocked with a range of non-perishable goods and a small supply of non-perishables that might be starting to look a little worse for wear if they have been on the shelf for more than a day or so. It's a choice one makes, but nutritious food seems readily available along all the Camino routes that I have walked.

@Paul288, I clearly don't buy your arguments here. My message is simple. Keeping oneself well nourished is a personal responsibility. The range of ways of doing that have been explored by others, and includes albergues, cafes, restaurants and food bought at the tiendas along the way. On all my Caminos, I don't recall any day where there wasn't a convenience store of some form or other, so I don't think that lack of availability is a convincing argument.

 

[dick bird]

Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino,

There are plenty of greengrocers and supermarkets along the camino where you can buy food to prepare for yourself. There are also restaurants that do not cater exclusively for pilgrims. If an individual feels they are not being adequately nourished, it is up to them to do something about it.

 

[dougfitz]

I am just trying to explain the situation, and advise people to always carry some "emergency" food.

While I do carry some emergency food, most of the food that I do carry, on both the camino and other pilgrimages, is intended as part of my normal daily consumption. I will typically identify the last shop before the place I am going to stay the night, and purchase fruit, yoghurt, bread, etc. Some I will eat there and then rather carry it too far in my pack. Some items I will eat the next morning for a similar reason. Items like salami, hard cheese and other snacks might last a few days, and get carried in my pack for longer.

By all means, minimise what you carry, but not to the detriment of your own health and welfare. While we might take some risks with our nutrition on the camino, I don't think there is any reason to not be adequately nourished.

 

[rojasa]

I guess one could always research which pilgrimages around the world "serve" the healthiest meals, and choose to walk one of those instead. Many of us walk a pilgrimage for spiritual nourishment, and understand we are responsible for our physical needs. Additional offers of food and drink, sufficiently nutritional or otherwise, are then gratefully acknowledged. buen camino

 

[Kirkie]

Sorry, I am Spanish. This is what you really meant? Do you think I should sell my shares as soon as possible?

While I do not recognise the Meseta or indeed the Spain of the OP in food experience, to be fair, I think the word yet belongs to the next part of his sentence. He may have missed out a comma, I think...
Hold on proudly to your shares!

 

[Molly Cassidy]

Um, , that’s not how it happened for me. There is no predictable meal hours from one town to the next. Does the kitchen opens ant 5, 6, 7, or 8 pm?? I tried to order the menu del día a few times but it seemed that it was at the wrong time. With my difficulties in moving through difficult terrain, I could not time my arrivals to the right time. If a place (or the kitchen) is closed at different times in different towns, I don’t know how I can find out or schedule my walking hours. Even when I asked, the information many times was inconsistent and/or inaccurate.
That was my experience, despite my efforts to follow the advice given here and elsewhere. I’m glad it worked for many people but it didn’t work for me.

Menu del dia is at lunchtime. From about 1pm till maybe 3pm or sometimes later.

 

[SabsP]

Um, , that’s not how it happened for me. There is no predictable meal hours from one town to the next. Does the kitchen opens ant 5, 6, 7, or 8 pm?? I tried to order the menu del día a few times but it seemed that it was at the wrong time. With my difficulties in moving through difficult terrain, I could not time my arrivals to the right time. If a place (or the kitchen) is closed at different times in different towns, I don’t know how I can find out or schedule my walking hours. Even when I asked, the information many times was inconsistent and/or inaccurate.
That was my experience, despite my efforts to follow the advice given here and elsewhere. I’m glad it worked for many people but it didn’t work for me.

Or you stop at the first available restaurant in a town underway. Have your main meal between 1 and 3 pm like others here already wrote and then continue for another hour or two to reach your destination of the day.

A general tip : do not hesitate to visit the restaurant of a hostal next to a gasstation.
For example, there is one at El Burgo Ranero.
A menu de dia that caters for local people. It seems that there is always a hearty soup as a primer plato.
Eating in such a place also gives us a good insight how Spanish society works. Families on vacation, the local council workers on their lunchbreak etc...

Do not forget that usually restaurants have their more formal " comedor " in the back. So at first you might think there is hardly anyone in the bar/ restaurant but when you walk a bit further inside you will see the door with " comedor " and there will be the action.

 

[Cicada]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

I didn't have a problem personally although overall I did lose a few Kgs over the 42 days. I walked in 2017 so can't remember if there were many supermarkets around. If there are perhaps you could have made use of them and bought nutritional food to cook. I'm sure there were many restaurants and bars selling good nutritional food! Yes I agree with dougfitz it's up to you to see that you get the required nutrition. Not whinge about it!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

how can the nutritional needs of pilgrims be met without burdening the local population or disrupting their way of life?

Spanish times work for me, especially in the heat of summer.

I aim to stop walking on or before 1pm, then I look for a place to sleep that night, drop off my pack, have my main meal for the day at around 2pm. Back to my albergue for a shower and then an afternoon snooze, aiming to wake up around 6:30pm so that I can get myself ready to go out for a light evening meal and socializing with other people from about 8pm. Aiming to be back at my albergue around 9:30-10 pm for my evening sleep.

Usually I seem to lose a little weight when I am in Spain but this year I somehow put on a couple of kilos but that was probably from the beer rather than the crayfish (below) as I don't really drink that much at home.

A good bit of protein here but admittedly it wasn't on the meseta.

 

[davejsy]

Spanish times work for me, especially in the heat of summer.

I aim to stop walking on or before 1pm, then I look for a place to sleep that night, drop off my pack, have my main meal for the day at around 2pm. Back to my albergue for a shower and then an afternoon snooze, aiming to wake up around 6:30pm so that I can get myself ready to go out for a light evening meal and socializing with other people from about 8pm. Aiming to be back at my albergue around 9:30-10 pm for my evening sleep.

Usually I seem to lose a little weight when I am in Spain but this year I somehow put on a couple of kilos but that was probably from the beer rather than the crayfish (below) as I don't really drink that much at home.

A good bit of protein here but admittedly it wasn't on the meseta.

View attachment 178484

That photo is like something out of the matrix

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Possibly my taste for street food and pastries might also have something to do with my weight gain.

 

[OZAJ]

I disagree.

So do I.

During many Caminos, I have never had a food problem:

Neither have I.

The menu del dia is what the Spanish eat: I am OK with that, to say the least.

So am I. I do, however avoid the pilgrim menu.

So if you lose weight while on the Camino, it may be a good thing for you.

I have gone from morbidly obese to chubby.

I have no interest in endurance sports: I am a 70-year old pilgrim, I weigh 75 kgs, and I am well fed in Spain.

Ditto, but heavier.

True, the Camino is mostly not a Michelin star environment, but who gives a sh*t. That's not why we are there.

Agreed.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I had only gotten started on reading this thread last night and see it has since gone viral.
In glancing at the posts now, I can see that I agree with, and have experienced most of what the vast majority of commenters are saying. I will add that I have never felt gouged monetarily on any meal, so if the pilgrim meal or del dia didn't always "hit the spot" for my taste buds, I was/am still appreciative of a hot meal after walking a long day, and "the price was always right".

 

[kptorrahk]

I lived in Spain for 9 years. Became a vegetarian after 1 of those years.

In the beginning I complained a lot about how at restaurants everything was jamon, potatoes and little vegetables.

But later I realised just how amazingly fresh produce is in Spain and that actually outside the big cities is where you find truly unique lentil/bean based dishes.

We need to consider that Spanish cuisine is steeped in tradition. Spain for the longest time was an absolute monarchy (and quite recently a dictatorship) with a huge peasant population. Their language spread far and wide and they had no policy of adopting other cultures' cultural or food customs. In the countryside people have lived lives according to tradition for most of the past centuries.

Now the meseta is basically a vast plain of endless fields of wheat and produce. It extends far beyond what we walk on the camino and comprises about 1/3 of Spain. Remember how they tell you Spain after Switzerland is on average the European country with the highest elevation? That's because of the extensive meseta plateau . Work on this land has always been hard and oftentimes famines made it worse. You start to understand that their food needs were focused on max energy intake while not always being varied enough.

The dishes we eat today on the meseta largely stem from this tradition. Eggs, potatoes, lentils, chickpeas, cheap types of cabbage, spinach, ham, chicken. And then consider how these meat options were a luxury until the age of democracy in the 80s.

If we don't learn about the histories and traditions of people it's easy to compare to our reality without a second thought. If we do, we learn that not everything is perfect but there's a reason behind everything. And then we adapt.
Buen Camino de la Vida!

 

[lettinggo]

Be grateful for what you recieve?

Lettinggo

 

[Kathar1na]

Sorry, I am Spanish. This is what you really meant? Do you think I should sell my shares as soon as possible?

That's a funny reply . But as @Kirkie pointed out, a comma is missing in the post, it should be: Spain is not a third world country, yet I have eaten better in third world countries than on this section of the Camino.

I am not certain what the OP means by "this section": Is it the Meseta section strictly speaking or is it Burgos to Ponferrada? [Please can the OP or a moderator correct the misspelling in the title? It is Meseta, not Maseta.]

The "available" food is not abysmal. What a pilgrim eats day in day out may well qualify as not highly recommendable by contemporary standards. We / I avoided the usual pilgrim fare as often as I could. I also did not stay in albergues other than a few albergues that had private rooms in addition to dormitory beds and where we shared the communal meal when offered. What can I say? Of course we lauded the efforts of the host at the end of the meal but, really, not everybody is a talented three star Michelin cook and when it's volunteer hospitaleros they will presumably also resort to easy meals like spaghetti and other pasta or rice with something mixed into it etc etc during their 2 week stint and they may not be familiar with the regional cuisine?

kptorrahk makes a good point: regional cooking in a traditionally rural area. I come from a similar area but far away from the Meseta. Nearly all the vegetables that grow in one's own garden get cooked, and they are seasonal of course and not a major part of the meal. No fancy salads and side dishes with little cubes or strips of raw carrots or celery etc. etc.

I went through the list of the towns between Burgos and Ponferrada where we / I had stayed and immediately remembered some of the excellent food that we had in local restaurants. Especially in Ponferrada where we went to the restaurant next to our accommodation and had a most enjoyable 3-course meal, sitting outside next to the castle wall, it was already getting dark but still lively. Of course, not staying in a standard albergue we could stay out longer than 8:30 pm for the 9 pm curfew and we did.

In Portomarín - much later - with its row of eating places for pilgrims and tourists alike in the main street we said to our host that we did not need to go to one of these nearby places and asked for a different recommendation. We had to walk uphill for a bit and found a place full of locals. The staff/owner recommended an entrée that I would never even have touched elsewhere: empanada with eel. It was delicious. Similar much earlier where I had pork cheeks for the first time in my life - again not on the pilgrim's menu but on the general menu and again delicious and, like the empanada, a typical regional dish.

The usual available pilgrim fare may be "abysmal" or rather "not so great". But available food in general? Absolutely not "abysmal".

 

[VNwalking]

The food is an important part of any travel experience

Traveling is one thing, walking a camino is another altogether. If the former is your priority, save yourself the rigors and simplicity of the camino and just roam around San Sebastian. You'll be much happier.

There is no predictable meal hours from one town to the next.

Sure there are. Lunch is from 2-3:30 (or 4). Everything else is shut so people can have a proper midday meal.

 

[alexwalker]

Just for enlightenment:

Menú del día - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Pelegrin]

That's a funny reply . But as @Kirkie pointed out, a comma is missing in the post, it should be: Spain is not a third world country, yet I have eaten better in third world countries than on this section of the Camino.

I am not certain what the OP means by "this section": Is it the Meseta section strictly speaking or is it Burgos to Ponferrada? [Please can the OP or a moderator correct the misspelling in the title? It is Meseta, not Maseta.]

The "available" food is not abysmal. What a pilgrim eats day in day out may well qualify as not highly recommendable by contemporary standards. We / I avoided the usual pilgrim fare as often as I could. I also did not stay in albergues other than a few albergues that had private rooms in addition to dormitory beds and where we shared the communal meal when offered. What can I say?

The usual available pilgrim fare may be "abysmal" or rather "not so great". But available food in general? Absolutely not "abysmal".

Spanish Stock Exchange has raised 17% in 2024, therefore it wouln't be a bad idea to sell but I never sell. In relation to food, I have never walked any Camino on the Meseta but my experience when I stop there to have a menu del dia on my way driving to Galicia is quite good. The food rations are a bit smaller than in Galicia but good enough for me and there is always fish as an option.

 

[AshtabulaJed]

Hello, I just left the Meseta behind and am now in Molinaseca. I have to say, I had some really lovely meals in the meseta, among the standouts, lentil soup, bean soup, garlic soup and some beautiful chicken dishes. Admittedly, I am not walking the Camino specifically in order to experience top notch cuisine, but I’m not complaining. I have also had some really good pastries, now that I think of it. And while I wouldn’t want to live on bocadillos and have certainly had a few that left a lot to be desired, sometimes there is nothing better.

 

[David Tallan]

I agree 100% with you.

My food experience in my recent Camino was very stressful and frustrating. Besides the limited choices, the unpredictable meal times made it worse. I never knew what would be available, or when. Every town seemed to be different, making it hard to plan when bars/stores would be closed at different times.

Several responses here seem dismissive (not necessarily intentionally or maliciously) but I think you raise a very valid concern that deserves to be addressed. I do recognize that many of these towns seemed to be struggling, so I would think more in terms of how can these towns be helped?

I found Spanish meal times quite predictable, with some exceptions in favour of pilgrims, but generally completely incompatible with the pilgrim or North American schedule.

The main meal of the day in Spain is pretty consistently early to mid afternoon, and the lighter evening meal starts at 9:30 or 10:00. Shops often close in the afternoon to allow employees to have that main meal. That meant that shops might be closed for the afternoon when I arrive at my destination, and that "lunch" was usually bigger and later than I am used to, and just when I want to rest and nap after my day's walk. Then restaurants may not be open for the evening meal (which I consider the main meal) until after the albergue has locked its doors! On routes with a lot of pilgrim traffic, you may find some places attempting to accommodate pilgrim schedules a bit, with main meals offered in the early evening at 7:30 or 8:00 (shockingly early to a Spaniard).

When I am on a solitary route, I tend to force myself into having my main meal as  comida, in the early afternoon, and just make myself an early, light  cena on my own (maybe a mixed salad with tuna, for example). When there are a lot of other pilgrims, I am more likely to have my main meal in the evening, either in a communal meal in the albergue or with other pilgrims in a bar or restaurant that accommodates pilgrim schedules (more likely to be found where there are a lot of other pilgrims).

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I have stayed at places on the Caminos when they are closed to pilgrims during Siesta, and are eating their family meal during that time. When I glance over at their table, the food looks special and more scrumptious, but I don't begrudge them cooking a different meal than what is offered to us pilgrims, as it seems more work is involved.

 

[NavyBlue]

at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast,

Hi,

Low-protein breakfast is the usual treat in France, Spain, Italy... Everybody there has survived so far, even manual workers.

Before the 1970s, rural Spain was a rather poor country, where upscale food was not readily available nor even required by the consumers. And the attendance in the Meseta, with probably a large share of pilgrims on a budget, has not changed the picture to much extent.

You will find more attractive/balanced/etc. food on the Chemin du Puy (homemade dinners cooked with love by your hosts) or on the Via Francigena in Italy (restaurants with traditional Italian cooking, though not as cheap as the pilgrim menu).

In a nutshell, if you have survived boarding schools or the military, you should stand 10 days in the Meseta. A la guerre comme à la guerre (At war like at war) say the French...

 

[Purple Backpack]

I don't recall the meseta specifically being a challenge, but it has been a while. I recall my body's reaction to the first week on the CdF and my craving for protein. The nuts, beans and cheese were not doing it for me. I think the trick is not to depend on just the pilgrim's menu. I did find protein-rich meals to meet my needs and they were such a morale boost for me. I can still taste the braised cow tongue I had with a rich, red Rioja wine (tongue is not something I'd not normally order, much less see on the menu in the US and my goodness was it delectable!). There was the turkey leg and thigh covered in a silky, rich gravy in Puenta la Reina. And then the massive paella in Los Arcos, full of shrimp and chicken. OK, now I need to go get an early lunch!

The lentil soup at Casa de la Abuela in Los Arcos was the best I’ve ever had. I’m vegan at home and vegetarian when I travel so it’s challenging but I find the owners of small inns wherever I travel are really accommodating and kind, always trying to make sure I had enough and doubled up the veggies for me at communal meals. The meals on the Meseta weren’t perfect but it was only a few days, I bought lunch from the albergues when I could and went to the grocery stores a lot, fresh fruits/veggies/nuts/hummus/baguettes from bakeries. Had one night of nuts and wine but that was my fault for poor planning. Not a biggie. But cow tongue…hard no.

 

[Becky 59]

@t2andreo , my husband also carries protein powder. However, TSA pulled him to the side for interrogation because the worried his protein powder was a dangerous explosive!

I ALWAYS travel with powdered protein supplements. This tops my protein needs off every day. I usually manage to find enough protein on the local economy.

Generally, I start the day with a serving of flavored protein powder dissolved in water. I will even add a powdered coffee "single" packet for added flavor and the caffeine rush to get me started.

I recommend doing better research and planing ahead next time. You can pick up temperature stable, protein-rich foods in Carrion de los Condes, before heading out on the main part of the Meseta. I have bought pre-cooked ham and hard cheeses in the Dia supermarket there, and made a full "loaf" of ham and cheese sandwiches using whole wheat bread. That sufficed for a couple of days. I like ham and cheese sandwiches.

You can add canned fish, nuts, and other protein rich foods if your prefer.

IMHO, no one gets seriously malnourished or starves, without going out of their way to do so. Adapting to your surroundings and environment is the key concept here.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[Colokid]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Maseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Maseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Maseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino lookingime, but the people in ospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted er a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

Wow, most pilgrims can't say h about how much I enjoyed my Meseta. I knew it would be different.

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Meseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Meseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Meseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

...masquerading as breakfast?... camino embarrassment?...closures?...
If you came for Have you considered perhaps

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Meseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Meseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Meseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

I can't say enough about how much i enjoyed varied experience of the provincial cultures including the gracious welcoming I received in the hardscrabble towns. Having lived and traveled in many very remote places of this earth, I went unassuming and open to the entire experience and adjustments in lifestyle (including unacustomed food and other culture), and to be inspired and a bit challenged in multiple ways.

Yes, I did supplement meals with fresh fruit, vegies and nuts from local tiendas. But the characterizations of ..."masquerading as breakfast"?... "camino embarrassment"?..."closure" complaints?... seems rather harsh -- and mostly, entitled. Each caminante walks Camino on their own intention, most for pilgrimage seeking inner growth, but endurance sports maybe not so much.

 

[Stivandrer]

The old boy scout in me will suck up good offers on the way in tiendas: Almonds, tins of tuna, the odd cottage cheese, cheese and lomo...no soft drinks
As I like to eat early in the afternoon as a late lunch, I will dive into the bars´n cafés to have a small 200 ml Galicia and any serving of rationes there is on offer, and here is the drip by drip supply of good food stuffs (i e protein)...
Then, later in the afternoon when everything id closed , I will get a serving of something light, anything, really at around 6 to 7 pm so as not to eat too late and spoil my night sleep. - 3 courses and wine at 9 o´clock is a murder of sleep and a no no....eating small and often is a good thing when walking IMHO.
I rarely lose more than 3 kgs/ month on this regime!

 

[Chelo]

Hello,

I am posting this having just completed the Burgos to Ponferrada leg of Camino Frances. This would take my Camino mileage up to around 1,300km over a few shorter trips, so while I would not consider myself a veteran I do consider myself to have some experience of the Camino, and of walking and hiking more generally.

The fact that I am a professionally qualified nutritionist that has an interest in endurance sports is incidental, but I mention it solely because I make these comments from a place of having some nutrition education.

The title speaks for itself. The food on the La Meseta stretch of Camino Frances is beyond absysmal. Protein and vegetables are always a challenge on the Camino, but it reaches new heights on La Meseta. I realise that I may have been unlucky the odd day, but I don’t think that unlucky.

Between low protein child sized portions of pilgrim meals in albergues at night, followed by 4cm of white baguette toasted the following morning masquerading as breakfast, to nowhere near enough protein along the route to satisfy the nutritional guidelines of a sedentary person never mind an active pilgrim, to places being closed at the times people need to eat, to croissants wrapped in plastic bags, to bocadillo after bocadillo the food situation along La Meseta is an embarrassment to the Camino. I generally would eat anything put in front of me, but I struggled continually to get adequate nutrition.

I never come on the Camino looking for an easy time, but the people in hospitality along this part of the route seem to have given up. Perhaps they are exhausted after a long and exceptionally busy season, but regardless it’s extremely disappointing.

As a Spaniard and a pilgrim I feel quite offended by your comments on the food . Spanish culture and customs my be different ftrom yours regarding meals , but one thing I’m sure is the availability of excellent food and produce to purchase yourself . It seems to me that you were expecting five star service on a hostal budget . Everything is available , on the Camino if you want it . Specially been a nutritionist you should be better prepared and not so critical .

 

[CWBuff]

I think we all agree about the absurdity of the initial statements made and IMHO at this point we are practically wasting our time as the OP will never come back. Another one of "drive-by" posts just to post something were one can vent......

Just to throw my two pence worth - not at any given time had I any issues with food. There were always plenty of places to eat and enough supermercados and food stands to buy something.

IRC the most, shall I say' "challenging" place was Linares. (please remember that this is 2022 - the World is still having a 'problem' opening itself after COVID). In any case - the only restaurant was closed and a tiny grocery store didn't have much .... so Yours Truly, another gent from US, one more from Singapore and a German Fraulein made do with cans of sardines, bread (loaves of bread and fishes, anyone?!) and Ramen noodles. We did wash it down with some good Spanish beer though....

Surviving in Linares - and survive we did!

 

[CWBuff]

. A la guerre comme à la guerre (At war like at war) say the French...

or "when in Rome..." (as the English would say)... so when on Meseta or any Camino - do as the Caminians do

 

[HBS60]

"Everything" being the stores and offices, because everyone is eating their mid-day meal!

P.S. I don't mean to seem argumentative or critical - I am just trying to explain the situation, and advise people to always carry some "emergency" food.

I understand you’re not trying to be argumentative or critical. Im trying to make sense why my experience was so different from that of others, despite my attempts to prepare and get informed.

 

[SabsP]

I think we all agree about the absurdity of the initial statements made and IMHO at this point we are practically wasting our time as the OP will never come back. Another one of "drive-by" posts just to post something were one can vent......

Just to throw my two pence worth - not at any given time had I any issues with food. There were always plenty of places to eat and enough supermercados and food stands to buy something.

IRC the most, shall I say' "challenging" place was Linares. (please remember that this is 2022 - the World is still having a 'problem' opening itself after COVID). In any case - the only restaurant was closed and a tiny grocery store didn't have much .... so Yours Truly, another gent from US, one more from Singapore and a German Fraulein made do with cans of sardines, bread (loaves of bread and fishes, anyone?!) and Ramen noodles. We did wash it down with some good Spanish beer though....

Surviving in Linares - and survive we did!

This was my lunch years ago in Bruma on the Ingles.
Chocolatechip cookies and a beer after 30 km walk.
Heaven!
By which I mean it is all relative.
In the evening dinner was brought in from a restaurant further away.

 

[C clearly]

why my experience was so different from that of others, despite my attempts to prepare and get informed.

I don't think your experience was so different! I think it is easier to eat poorly on the Camino than it is to eat healthily. That is probably true when you go on the road anywhere for weeks, or if you were working a few weeks of a different shift, or if your kitchen was being renovated. I certainly get tired of eating in restaurants of variable quality, as often happens while one is walking for weeks on a Camino.

In those situations, we either need to adapt creatively, or accept the period of less than optimal diet. Some people are fussier than others and may be less flexible.

In all cases, there is no reason to be stuck with low blood sugar with no food in your backpack.

 

[CWBuff]

In those situations, we either need to adapt creatively, or accept the period of less than optimal diet.

or both.
Most of us are foreigners to Spain and surely must understand that this is a different country with different customs and that no Spaniard should be expected to change their ways just because it does not suit us.

IMHO - all due considerations must be given to pros and cons before attempting to go on Camino. Once you step on it... ADAPT! and for the zillllionth time - it is a PILGRIMAGE!

I vividly remember that right before we started the actual Camino Inca the leader of the group pointed to the "start" line and told us - this is your moment to turn back if you have any final thoughts and doubts. Once you cross this line there IS no turning back

...and so it goes and there it went.

 

[HBS60]

I don't think your experience was so different! I think it is easier to eat poorly on the Camino than it is to eat healthily. That is probably true when you go on the road anywhere for weeks, or if you were working a few weeks of a different shift, or if your kitchen was being renovated. I certainly get tired of eating in restaurants of variable quality, as often happens while one is walking for weeks on a Camino.

In those situations, we either need to adapt creatively, or accept the period of less than optimal diet. Some people are fussier than others and may be less flexible.

In all cases, there is no reason to be stuck with low blood sugar with no food in your backpack.

Thanks.
We all have different ways of experiencing things and different abilities of adapting to things. I’m not as experienced, creative, or resourceful as others here, and being a rookie I was flying by the seat of my pants, but I keep getting the message (rightly or wrongly) from others (not you) that despite my best efforts, I didn’t try enough and should have known better because they didn’t have a problem.
As for the low sugar comment, there’s a new thread from a diabetic trying to find food. How can he be best helped?

 

[alexwalker]

When in Hellas (Greece), I eat Hellenic food.
When in Espana, I eat Espanol food.
When in Italia, I eat italiano food.
When in Roma, I do as the Romans.

IMHO, It is refreshing to dive into the foods, culture and ways of another country.

And if you don't want to eat out, even the smallest tiendas (local shops) have lots you can use to make a healthy, protein-/carb-rich meal in the albergue kitchen (given utensils), either alone or together with other pilgrims.

BTW: The OP seems to have left the building: He was last seen in here at 5.32 PM yesterday, so we are now just preaching to the congregation.

Edit: As the saying goes: Tourists demand - Pilgrims say thank you.

 

[C clearly]

How can he be best helped?

Not to start a second discussion here, but again I would say: Be aware that stores and restaurants in small towns operate on hours of their choosing, so you should always carry enough appropriate calories to replace one evening meal and one breakfast.

 

[HBS60]

or both.
Most of us are foreigners to Spain and surely must understand that this is a different country with different customs and that no Spaniard should be expected to change their ways just because it does not suit us.

IMHO - all due considerations must be given to pros and cons before attempting to go on Camino. Once you step on it... ADAPT! and for the zillllionth time - it is a PILGRIMAGE!

I vividly remember that right before we started the actual Camino Inca the leader of the group pointed to the "start" line and told us - this is your moment to turn back if you have any final thoughts and doubts. Once you cross this line there IS no turning back

...and so it goes and there it went.

I did try to adapt. I wasn’t very good at it but I did try.

 

[trecile]

I did try to adapt. I wasn’t very good at it but I did try.

The important thing is that you persevered and made it to Santiago!