Fisherman's Trail from Porto Covo (north > south) in January 7ish Days?

[pilgrimpleterski]

My husband and I walked other Camino routes (French Way from Leon, Portuguese Central and Coastal) and part of the Via Francigena in Italy. We hike a lot at home i.e., we're walkers.

We're thinking of starting the Fisherman's Trail in Porto Covo in mid January, probably walking 5-7 nights. I admit, I'm a little nervous about the sand/dune walking and rain. We had a LOT of rain in Galicia, and used to that, but I'm a little nervous about rain/wind AND sand walking. Cool and cloudy weather is fine (even preferable!) I know it would be better to wait until April, but January is the best time for us to walk right now. I checked https://caminoweather.com and it looks quite do-able.

We also considered the Via de la Plata from Seville around the same time period, but drawn to the ocean and coastal scenery (as long as the weather doesn't blow us into the sea) : )

I planned to pre-book accomodation, as it seems that some places are closed for the off season and I prefer not to worry about finding a place to stay.

Does anyone have any experience walking the Fisherman's Trail in January? Any other recommended routes in southern Europe?

Many thanks in advance!

 

[andycohn]

I walked it in April - May myself, so can't speak about Janaury. But as to the sand, you might consider starting a day or two south of Porto Covo, if you're only walking 5 - 7 days. Sand is deepest those first two days. I was skeptical about walking it because we live by spectacular coast ourselves (northern California) and the coast along the Camino Portuguese had bored me, but it really is wonderful. Can't beat the food, either.

In southern Europe I also hugely enjoyed the Magna Via Francigena, which crosses Sicily from Palermo to Agrigento. You'll only see the sea in the beginning and the end, but I found the rugged scenery to be magnificent, and the temps. should be warm enough. Like elsewhere, rain could be a problem. Not touristed at all, but very welcoming small towns along the way. At least travelers' Italian would be helpful. @jungleboy has a great descriptive thread:
Thread 'Magna Via Francigena - April 2024'
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/magna-via-francigena-april-2024.86324/.

He also has a good thread on the Rota Vicentina, if you haven't seen it already:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/rota-vicentina-april-2022.73995/

 

[naplesdon]

The best person to answer this will be Jungleboy. He has walked it. My experience with living in Portugal during the winter is there are storms and cold fronts that blow in off of the Atlantic that time of year so expect rain and less than temperate walking conditions.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked the Fisherman's Trail in April, taking it in ten slow days which were perfect for me. We had delightful perfect weather except for one day. @andycohn is correct that the Portuguese Camino on the coast north of Porto does not compare to the beauty of the FT coast on the high cliffs. He is also correct when he says the first two days out of Porto Covo are very strenuous walking in deep sand. When I started out I was wondering what I'd gotten myself into!

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

Thanks, all, super helpful! Yes, I read that about the first two days out of Porto Covo, with the sand. I also read they are some of the most beautiful, when walking SOBO.

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

@andycohn, thanks for the tip on Magna Via Francigena! I didn't know about that route

 

[Camino Chrissy]

In southern Europe I also hugely enjoyed the Magna Via Francigena, which crosses Sicily from Palermo to Agrigento. You'll only see the sea in the beginning and the end, but I found the rugged scenery to be magnificent, and the temps. should be warm enough. Like elsewhere, rain could be a problem. Not touristed at all, but very welcoming small towns along the way. At least travelers' Italian would be helpful. @jungleboy has a great descriptive thread:
Thread 'Magna Via Francigena - April 2024'
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/magna-via-francigena-april-2024.86324/.

He also has a good thread on the Rota Vicentina, if you haven't seen it already:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/rota-vicentina-april-2022.73995/

Yes, @jungleboy has a detailed account while he walked this route in Sicily. I remember, Andy, that you were not far behind him.

 

[andycohn]

Yes, @jungleboy has a detailed account while he walked this route in Sicily. I remember, Andy, that you were not far behind him.

Yes, we were a few days behind @jungleboy on the MVF, and about a month behind him on the RV / Fisherman's Trail. Come spring, I'm aiming to be about 10 months behind him on the Via Ellenica. The only thing I'm not behind him in is years, where he's got a lot of catching up to do.

And I love being correct! Doesn't happen enough. Thanks!

 

[pelerine]

My family invited me to join them on their walk in October. I accepted and ended up with a fatigue fracture in my left foot. The two younger generations (late fifties and early teens) found it hard, but did not really have a problem. There were plenty of older people too, but all of those had opted for luggage transport. Which I had not because I had not realised the strain it would have on my feet and had forgotten to what extent my pack made me topheavy and in danger to lose my equilibrium ( which I did not in fact lose!). After the first two days I did roughly the second half of the daily distance by taxi while the others walked, each carrying their pack, even the “little ones”. And then walked in parallel to the coast path on a “normal” path (GR 11?). In spite of it all I found it a magnificent walk, just “know thy limits”!

PS Weather magnificent lractically all along
Edit: practically, not Iractically!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The only thing I'm not behind him in is years, where he's got a lot of catching up to do.

Ain't that the truth! @jungleboy won't be able to catch up to me, even though I have been slowing down!

 

[towanda1961]

My husband and I walked other Camino routes (French Way from Leon, Portuguese Central and Coastal) and part of the Via Francigena in Italy. We hike a lot at home i.e., we're walkers.

We're thinking of starting the Fisherman's Trail in Porto Covo in mid January, probably walking 5-7 nights. I admit, I'm a little nervous about the sand/dune walking and rain. We had a LOT of rain in Galicia, and used to that, but I'm a little nervous about rain/wind AND sand walking. Cool and cloudy weather is fine (even preferable!) I know it would be better to wait until April, but January is the best time for us to walk right now. I checked https://caminoweather.com and it looks quite do-able.

We also considered the Via de la Plata from Seville around the same time period, but drawn to the ocean and coastal scenery (as long as the weather doesn't blow us into the sea) : )

I planned to pre-book accomodation, as it seems that some places are closed for the off season and I prefer not to worry about finding a place to stay.

Does anyone have any experience walking the Fisherman's Trail in January? Any other recommended routes in southern Europe?

Many thanks in advance!

Hi. I live along the Fisherman’s Trail and January can be a beautiful time here with warm days and sunny skies. Of course anything is possible, but we’ve had loads of rain and wind in April some years! Definitely book ahead, but come and enjoy the incredible scenery. I recommend gaiters for the sand and enjoy walking with only a day pack-use the luggage transport!

 

[LTfit]

Year to year can change but I've been along the Fisherman's Trail for several days January 2023 and the days were mostly sunny. I've also walked from Santiago do Cacem to Porto Covo and continued south to the lighthouse in March back in 2016 and had a wonderful time with sun on my face.

I didn't find those days from Porto Covo in the sand difficult but I may be in the minority

 

[pelerine]

I didn't find those days from Porto Covo in the sand difficult but I may be in the minority

That was eight years ago. How old were you?

 

[LTfit]

That was eight years ago. How old were you?

I was 60. That year I walked quite a few Caminos. In the summer I did the last part of the Norte from Gijón followed by the Portuguese Coastal from Porto then on to the Inglés.

Since 2016 I've done a Camino every year except for 2020, all of them more physically taxing than the Fisherman's Trail.

 

[jungleboy]

Well I guess I'd better chime in here after being talked up so much!

I walked in April so I don't have any specific January tips, but...

We had a LOT of rain in Galicia, and used to that, but I'm a little nervous about rain/wind AND sand walking.

The Alentejo and Algarve (the areas of the RV) are a completely different animal from Galicia. Others have already said they had decent weather in January. Porto Covo right now (late Nov) has daily highs of high teens or low 20s, mostly sunny days and no rain in the 10-day forecast.

Thanks, all, super helpful! Yes, I read that about the first two days out of Porto Covo, with the sand. I also read they are some of the most beautiful, when walking SOBO.

I found the first four days Porto Covo - Odeceixe to be the best part, but maybe that's also because it was the first section, so the scenery seemed more amazing then. At a certain point it naturally seems less impressive just because you've already seen similar scenery for a few days in a row.

Come spring, I'm aiming to be about 10 months behind him on the Via Ellenica.

Oh, amazing! I loved the Via Ellenica!

I didn't find those days from Porto Covo in the sand difficult but I may be in the minority

Me either, but I know that others did. It's certainly a different experience, but Wendy especially dislikes hard surfaces, so the uber-softness of the sand was great for her!

 

[stevenbl]

I walked in early February ‘23 from south to north and had great weather and a fabulous walk, although the sand can be quite tiring.

If interested, you can read my account and see pictures at www.followingyourfeet.com

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

My family invited me to join them on their walk in October. I accepted and ended up with a fatigue fracture in my left foot. The two younger generations (late fifties and early teens) found it hard, but did not really have a problem. There were plenty of older people too, but all of those had opted for luggage transport. Which I had not because I had not realised the strain it would have on my feet and had forgotten to what extent my pack made me topheavy and in danger to lose my equilibrium ( which I did not in fact lose!). After the first two days I did roughly the second half of the daily distance by taxi while the others walked, each carrying their pack, even the “little ones”. And then walked in parallel to the coast path on a “normal” path (GR 11?). In spite of it all I found it a magnificent walk, just “know thy limits”!

PS Weather magnificent lractically all along
Edit: practically, not Iractically!

So important to "know thy limits"! Last winter I had some injuries and learned the lesson of adjusting/modifying (not easy for me). I am happy to hear you could still enjoy the walk and found it to be magnificent!

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

Hi. I live along the Fisherman’s Trail and January can be a beautiful time here with warm days and sunny skies. Of course anything is possible, but we’ve had loads of rain and wind in April some years! Definitely book ahead, but come and enjoy the incredible scenery. I recommend gaiters for the sand and enjoy walking with only a day pack-use the luggage transport!

Thank you so much @towanda1961, that's super helpful! I've learned to expect the extremes, too, with climate crisis. When we walked the Via Francigena last April in Tuscany, I was expecting cooler temps and we had some days around 35C and freezing rain/temps around 7C at the end!

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

Year to year can change but I've been along the Fisherman's Trail for several days January 2023 and the days were mostly sunny. I've also walked from Santiago do Cacem to Porto Covo and continued south to the lighthouse in March back in 2016 and had a wonderful time with sun on my face.

I didn't find those days from Porto Covo in the sand difficult but I may be in the minority

Thank you so much @LTfit ! Yes, some folks report the sand wasn't too bad. Right now I'm thinking of switching up the order and starting in Sagres and going north and seeing how far we can go. I try not to start a walk with the hardest walking on the first day : ) I read that the first few days from Porto Covo are some of the most beautiful, but the days along the southern part also look stunning! I must say, it ALL looks beautiful, even the inland Historical Way!

 

[pelerine]

The Historical Way is pleasant and easy to walk, but nothing compared with the coastal path…

 

[Vacajoe]

Walked it the first week of June 2024 and found it very enjoyable, but just at the limit for the heat. January actually sounds like a better idea! Definitely book ahead and pack light as that sand accentuates every bit of weight on your back

 

[peregrina2000]

I haven’t walked the Fisherman’s Trail, but I have seen a lot of the Portuguese coast south of Lisbon. Lots of day hikes. I agree with those who say that it outdoes the coast in the north, probably because of all the cliffs and headlands.

I’m surprised to read several opinions that the first days from Porto Covo are the best. Maybe it’s because I haven’t walked it continuously, but for me the most spectacular part of that coast is the the part around Arrifana and Carrapateira. Which just goes to show, @pilgrimpleterski, that whichever way you go will be chock full of beauty!

 

[jungleboy]

I haven’t walked the Fisherman’s Trail, but I have seen a lot of the Portuguese coast south of Lisbon. Lots of day hikes. I agree with those who say that it outdoes the coast in the north, probably because of all the cliffs and headlands.

That’s the funny thing about the huge recent surge in popularity of the CP Coastal. Everyone seems to love the coastal scenery up there, but to my eye it doesn’t even come close to the beauty of the scenery of most of the rest of Portuguese coastline, including the RV areas and the rest of the Algarve, the area from Cascais north to Nazaré, and offshore Madeira/Azores.

For a visual comparison, the scenery on the CP Coastal looks like this:



While the RV looks like this:

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Masses of ncredible flowers and succulents.


And the "dreaded sand", but still worth it.

 

[grdemedeiros]

About the rain: I wouldn't let weather concerns stop me from doing a thru hike in southern Portugal in January.

We stayed in Salema in southern Portugal, just 17K east of Sagres, for 8 weeks in Nov & Dec 2022. The weather was absolutely fabulous, blue skies almost daily. We then went to Tavira for the 4 weeks of January 2023, more blue skies. Though not on the RV, these two regions offered ample walking trails that can be stitched together to connect villages. It's where we finally cemented our plan to walk the Camino Português (this summer) (It's also where we found Jungleboy's podcast, which lead us to this forum!)

 

[andycohn]

And don't forget those storks' nests: (I think we're collectively sending this couple off to the FT in January. And we may have to join them again)

 

[jungleboy]

And don't forget those storks' nests:

I think this might be the same stork!

 

[MountainMiMi]

Just chiming in to say the flowers on the Fisherman's Trail really blew me away. The pink sea thrift, ice plants, poppies, and the scent of gum rockrose (source of labdanum use in perfumery) for nearly the entire trail. We went in May, 2022, but I hope the flowers are year round so you can enjoy them!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Here are more of mine from the Fisherman's Trail in late April. (They are quite different than the fields of beautiful poppies and various colors of broom and lavender on the Frances and other inland Caminos.)

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

Walked it the first week of June 2024 and found it very enjoyable, but just at the limit for the heat. January actually sounds like a better idea! Definitely book ahead and pack light as that sand accentuates every bit of weight on your back

I must confess, I am NOT a fan of warm weather walking! Around 10C/50F is much better, for me!

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

Here are more of mine from the Fisherman's Trail in late April. (They are quite different than the fields of beautiful poppies and various colors of broom and lavender on the Frances and other inland Caminos.)
View attachment 181609
View attachment 181611View attachment 181613View attachment 181615

Thank you so much for sharing! Stunning!

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

Just chiming in to say the flowers on the Fisherman's Trail really blew me away. The pink sea thrift, ice plants, poppies, and the scent of gum rockrose (source of labdanum use in perfumery) for nearly the entire trail. We went in May, 2022, but I hope the flowers are year round so you can enjoy them!

View attachment 181606View attachment 181605
View attachment 181603

The contrast with the sky and the water is amazing!!

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

About the rain: I wouldn't let weather concerns stop me from doing a thru hike in southern Portugal in January.

We stayed in Salema in southern Portugal, just 17K east of Sagres, for 8 weeks in Nov & Dec 2022. The weather was absolutely fabulous, blue skies almost daily. We then went to Tavira for the 4 weeks of January 2023, more blue skies. Though not on the RV, these two regions offered ample walking trails that can be stitched together to connect villages. It's where we finally cemented our plan to walk the Camino Português (this summer) (It's also where we found Jungleboy's podcast, which lead us to this forum!)

Thank you, super helpful! Yes, found this and looks like less rain than I expected. https://www.meteoprog.com/pt/weather/Sines/month/january/

A guest house owner in Porto Covo said November was unseasonably warm, and the wind has also increased.

OH! I didn't know Jungleboy has a podcat, I will look for that, thank you!

 

[jungleboy]

OH! I didn't know Jungleboy has a podcat, I will look for that, thank you!

It's called Spirit of the Camino, if that helps. The Rota Vicentina episode is No. 3.1.

 

[pilgrimpleterski]

It's called Spirit of the Camino, if that helps. The Rota Vicentina episode is No. 3.1.

Great, thanks so much! Look forward to checking that out