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Arn,OK, so I'm a slow learner. Or, maybe I haven't made the effort in the past to step beyond ordering a bocadillo, or by pointing to pictures. That said, bars are likely to allow creativity in your order, where restaurants have a set menu and, except for deleting an item say pan or ensalada, your getting what's there
I enjoyed reading your post from an earlier Camino. The details you share are like being a part of a good story.Arn,
Glad that you have successfully arrived in Fromista!
Soon you will be a Villalcazar de Sirga, here is another true experience from earlier, easier times.
Arn, I love your photos of meat and cheese, but I miss seeing the pan!OK, so I'm a slow learner. Or, maybe I haven't made the effort in the past to step beyond ordering a bocadillo, or by pointing to pictures. That said, bars are likely to allow creativity in your order, where restaurants have a set menu and, except for deleting an item say pan or ensalada, your getting what's there.
Pan=food for thought not nourishmentArn, I love your photos of meat and cheese, but I miss seeing the pan!
Arn,Taking a two day break staying with Rebekah and Paddy at the Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos. It's a restful location and perfect for my tired feet.
Saying that, Paddy and I walked up Hobbit Hill and their bodega where we rescued three bottles of vino.
My Italian Camino friend in 2011 (my first Camino) used to say "Coincidences are God's way of staying Anonymous" ... maybeNow consider this, when faced by adversity, I'm sent to St Michael, located on my Saint name street.
I don't believe in coincidence.
Buen Camino all!
It is in one of those bodegas that we slept on my 1993, my first time in Moratinos, and I think 12th-17th August 1993 or so and meteorite night. One of my friends had chosen army boots not big enough, and she was suffering from terrible blisters, so we could go no further.Saying that, Paddy and I walked up Hobbit Hill and their bodega where we rescued three bottles of vino.
Arn,Leon, it was cold all day and the wind chill pushed into the mid-50s. Really down a bit the last two days and the dark interior of the Cathedral didn’t help. I love the stained glass.
Found a nice spot in the sun for a late lunch. Just when I was warming up they opened the umbrellas. Drat!!
And my beard is coming along nicely!
Sorry to hear you are a bit down, Arn. Keep walking and remind yourself how much you looked forward to GOing all year.Leon, it was cold all day and the wind chill pushed into the mid-50s. Really down a bit the last two days and the dark interior of the Cathedral didn’t help. I love the stained glass.
Found a nice spot in the sun for a late lunch. Just when I was warming up they opened the umbrellas. Drat!!
And my beard is coming along nicely!
Camino Chrissy,Sorry to hear you are a bit down, Arn. Keep walking and remind yourself how much you looked forward to GOing all year.
I too, love Leon's cathedral's and stained glass; beautiful picture btw. I have mentioned before that due to some serious structural damage a few centuries ago, all of the stained glass pieces were removed, marked piece by piece and stored in boxes for fifty years, then finally reassembled as we see them today...amazing!
What a fascinating article and a beautiful cathedral! Thank you for providing the link. It's a similar story of preserving the stained glass until reassembled much later, and in the case of the Chartres cathedral, some of it was even shipped elsewhere for safe keeping.Camino Chrissy,
Storage of invaluable stained glass for protection during WW2 was quite common in France for example at Chartres cathedral. Read more here.
Arn,As I entered Astorga, a railroad crossing is now traversed by a steel walkway. Must have been exciting in the past for pilgrims to cross safely. I could see the Cathedral in the distance. Getting closer, the Camino veered left and I started a very steep climb. Not all that happy, I reached the top and was faced with a church square. To my immediate right was a museum of sorts that served to display very unusual sacred art and history from the Confraternity.
I have also been saving a ton by shopping at supermercados instead of eating out. Two bottles of quality vino, jamon and queso for less than 12 €.
It is still there! And a few blocks over it looks like they are unearthing another structure. No signage to identify it but you can see different rooms, a bricked well, etcThere also used to be a cool covered display in that square with some Roman mosiac tilework?
Arn, Ann and I are enjoying your postings, and to "watch" your progress. We remember Astorga well! Have a great walk to the Cruz de Ferro. Quite cold and blustery on our camino - seemed suiting for the emotional visit there. You are on our daily rosary! Stay well - Buen Cami
I am so envious! I am very much enjoying your posts. I remember so well the day my husband and I reached the Cruz de Ferro where we left a stone from my mum's garden and said prayers in memory of our parents.A wonderful day. Long but interesting. Departed Astorga early, passed the Cathedral and the Bishop’s palace. Apparently he has never lived there. Outside town is a small chapel. Perfect to start the day. At about the 2 km mark to enter Rabanal you enter a very rocky incline. It’s tough but short. Press on and you will shortly arrive. The Posada el Tesin is fantastic. Staff wants to make your Camino memorable. Tonight, Gregorian Chant in the Church. Tomorrow starts the climb to la Cruz de Ferro where I’ll leave Our Stone.
God bless you both. I’ll say hi to your mum when I arrive.I am so envious! I am very much enjoying your posts. I remember so well the day my husband and I reached the Cruz de Ferro where we left a stone from my mum's garden and said prayers in memory of our parents.
I left a stone for my two sons, praying and hoping their lives "go well".I am so envious! I am very much enjoying your posts. I remember so well the day my husband and I reached the Cruz de Ferro where we left a stone from my mum's garden and said prayers in memory of our parents.
The current Roman Pontiff, Bergoglio, was once titular Bishop of Villafranca Montes de Oca -- I seriously doubt that he has ever set foot into the village, let alone the church.passed the Cathedral and the Bishop’s palace. Apparently he has never lived there
No ; if anything, that new arrangement has made things more annoying and boring for little real gain. Trains are very, VERY few and far between.As I entered Astorga, a railroad crossing is now traversed by a steel walkway. Must have been exciting in the past for pilgrims to cross safely.
Looks like a healthy lunch. And the meat and cheese slices were surely also welcome!Leon, it was cold all day and the wind chill pushed into the mid-50s. Really down a bit the last two days and the dark interior of the Cathedral didn’t help. I love the stained glass.
Found a nice spot in the sun for a late lunch. Just when I was warming up they opened the umbrellas. Drat!!
And my beard is coming along nicely!
As a warm up, I was thinking a triple Johnnie Walker Black neat!Hiking poles are definitely your best friends today! I love Acebo and always stay at the hotel with the Pilgrim section. They offer (or did in 2015-2017) a very good communal meal...it would warm you up after your day is over.
Actually, there was one large tour bus and several mini-buses. I didn’t see anyone get out.At least it does not look like there were a lot of tour buses as is sometimes the case at Cruz de Ferro. I remember being bothered by a lot of flies on the stretch after so hopefully the cooler, wet weather also kept them at bay.
I can see that I need to convert you over to a decent Scotch, try a decent single malt like Glenlivet Founders Reserve rather than that blended malt stuff that they wack a dark label onAs a warm up, I was thinking a triple Johnnie Walker Black neat!
Excellent, that is the sort of tour bus we need more of at this place.Actually, there was one large tour bus and several mini-buses. I didn’t see anyone get out.
Arn, you are only now just figuring this out?In one visit I can purchase jamon, queso, olives and chorizo. Add to that a good bottle of wine, or two and I’m set
No, been doing this for a bit. Just closing a loop. Too much sugar in OJ.Arn, you are only now figuring this out now?Those items have been my lunch staples many a day on the Camino...often purchased even in small tiendas, although I substitute fresh squeezed OJ for the wine, and usually saved the hot meal of the day and wine for dinner.
That would work but when in Spain "Orujo".As a warm up, I was thinking a triple Johnnie Walker Black neat!
Looks like extra weight to carry ;-)This thread begins with my first meal. I’ve gotten through most menus minus the pan and fries. Lunch is always the easiest if I am at a bar, but restaurants continue to pose the most challenge and they are expensive
Enter the supermercado!
In one visit I can purchase jamon, queso, olives and chorizo. Add to that a good bottle of wine, or two and I’m set for several days. Whether in a shared kitchen, or my room, I can easily remain on task eating meat and skipping the carbs. Lastly, it’s cheap!
This grab: 22€
Gets lighter every dayLooks like extra weight to carry ;-)
I always buy the olives in the little bags too. They are the only "sin" I admit to.We try to buy the grocery store olives in the packets to avoid having to carry a can or jar. LOVESpanish olives!!! I expecially like variety of the ones you can get at the fruteria out of big buckets!
A glass of OJ or a bottle of vino; hmmm, sounds like a trade-off...a matter of "pick your sugar poison" to me.No, been doing this for a bit. Just closing a loop. Too much sugar in OJ.
We eat out one good meal a day…..usually a late lunch. Otherwise, it is breakfast and dinner in our room. We brought some oatmeal packets protein bars, and granola bars. We try and shop n a town, upon arrval, but, alas, not every town has a supermercado..Arn, you are only now figuring this out now?Those items have been my lunch staples many a day on the Camino...often purchased even in small tiendas, although I substitute fresh squeezed OJ for the wine, and usually saved the hot meal of the day and wine for dinner.
I have two goto single malts:I can see that I need to convert you over to a decent Scotch, try a decent single malt like Glenlivet Founders Reserve rather than that blended malt stuff that they wack a dark label on
I need to bring you two over to bourbon. My favorite is Elmer T. Lee.I have two goto single malts:
Dalwhinny and Isle de Jura 30 yo
Difficult to find either in a small town bar.
Those of us who need to avoid carbs also need to avoid brandies, sadly.That would work but when in Spain "Orujo".
It diminishes swiftly enough ...Looks like extra weight to carry ;-)
Brandies yes, fine single malt no!Those of us who need to avoid carbs also need to avoid brandies, sadly.
Fruit liqueurs or eaux de vie can be OK.
Best I've had so far are Mediterranean French.LOVESpanish olives!!!
Brewed or distilled cereals have close to 0% fibres and 0% lectins, and so on -- they're not carbs, as alcohol is not strictly speaking sugar.Brandies yes, fine single malt no!
Arn - catching up on your postings. The weather during your visit at the Crux de Ferro somehow seems very appropriate. I loved the rock you left. If you can, what do all the slash marks signify? Keep up the good news and progress! Buen Camino!Cold wet windy foggy. That about describes to assent to the Crux de Ferro. As miserable as that was, about two hours later began the descent into El Acebo. The down hill is treacherous with rocks, slick mud and a continuous flow of water. If I didn’t know better I’d think I’d crossed over into Galicia.
John, each “/“ represents an intention, prayer, hurt, etc that folks have sent me to include on Our Stone. Go back and review some of their requests.Arn - catching up on your postings. The weather during your visit at the Crux de Ferro somehow seems very appropriate. I loved the rock you left. If you can, what do all the slash marks signify? Keep up the good news and progress! Buen Camino!
Oh, they are on my FB feed not here.John, each “/“ represents an intention, prayer, hurt, etc that folks have sent me to include on Our Stone. Go back and review some of their requests.
Murphy's 3rd law: If something that can go wrong does not go wrong, it will in the long run prove that it would have been best if it went wrong...When you get a nagging feeling you’re wrong, check and recheck. I thought I was booked, by Booking.com into a Hostal as far outside Pomferrada as possible to get a good start to Valcarce tomorrow. When I went to register, it was pointed out I was about six km from my intended Hostal and it was well off the Camino. Plan #2 Taxied to correct Hostal and will suck up the cost to resume in the morning. My dad often told me of Murphy’s Law…”If anything can go wrong it will!” I’d forgotten Murphy’s Law #2…”If everything is going right…you’ve missed something!”
Several down days. We will likely cross paths between Sarria and…Arn -- Catching up on your postings, and enjoying.... Shocked to realize that I'm not that far off your pace! Las Herrerias tonight, O Cebreiro for me tomorrow, and beyond.... Hope/pray we'll cross paths.
Las Herrerias tonight, O Cebreiro for me tomorrow, and beyond
So...you are both there today?As expected the Way up to O Cebreiro begins in a dusky dawn, progresses into bright sunshine and ends in a fog shrouded welcome.
Missed himSo...you are both there today?
Buen caminos peregrinos!
I pushed on from O Cebreiro yesterday (Monday) around 12 or 1 pm, after a badly seasoned bowl of Caldo Gallego at the Venta Celta. Arn and I didn't cross paths, which is a pity. Probably our our only chance.So...you are both there today?
Buen caminos peregrinos!
The Camino is still the thing that binds.I pushed on from O Cebreiro yesterday (Monday) around 12 or 1 pm, after a badly seasoned bowl of Caldo Gallego at the Venta Celta. Arn and I didn't cross paths, which is a pity. Probably our our only chance.
I did, however, share that mediocre lunch at O Cebreiro with another Forum member, whose "handle" I simply can't recall. Decent chap from North Carolina, USA.... Somehow we Forum members do manage to run into each other!I pushed on from O Cebreiro yesterday (Monday) around 12 or 1 pm, after a badly seasoned bowl of Caldo Gallego at the Venta Celta. Arn and I didn't cross paths, which is a pity. Probably our our only chance.
Arn, I always stop at every church/cathedral I pass. I walk up to the door and pull on the handle. The many times I find them locked it is always a disappointment and I trudge on.I’m disappointed the Monastery Church at Barbadelo isn’t open. It’s a favorite stop to reflect.
I never thought of this description. But it's perfect.remade Potemkin-like village
I had to google this interesting word as I'd not heard of it. Although originally having a more political meaning, it also reminds me of Hollywood's attempt at reconstructing 19th century cowboy towns, and facades in architecture to give a false illusion of grandeur. The main street of Portomarin has certainly been given a perfect look of newness.Potemkin-like village.
Pictures save wordsArn,
Take care as you cross that (in)-famous bridge into Portomarin. Perhaps you will see some ruins in the water if all is clear.
Unfortunately to enter Portomarin the bridge over the water must be crossed. In the past I have always walked facing traffic on the left side but on the traffic lane and not the walkers sidewalk. This "feels" a little easier.
The stone arch with high steps at the entrance to the village need not be climbed. Walk up the avenue de Sarria which is on the right as you face those steps and you will arrive at the remade Potemkin-like village.
It was I @FRM . I also had the pleasure of walking an hour or so with @BombayBill up the hill to Foncebadon. I enjoyed every minute with both of you. Best.I did, however, share that mediocre lunch at O Cebreiro with another Forum member, whose "handle" I simply can't recall. Decent chap from North Carolina, USA.... Somehow we Forum members do manage to run into each other!
Unless you are skin and bones the need for carbs may just be a desire for a strawberry rhubarb pie!Getting to my 7-10 day point where I need some carbs again.
Annoying.
Any fruit pie will do just fine for me.Unless you are skin and bones the need for carbs may just be a desire for a strawberry rhubarb pie!
I have often noticed on the forum that pilgrims with the most blisters seem to be the younger ones (they assume they are invincible)...I was one of them once myself...a long time ago in my youth.It appears the bulk of the injuries are among the younger pilgrims and the more seasoned are adjusting quiet well.
My blister healed a long way back. Never another problem. I have had a problem with bike riders: silently speed by, jump the path even into walking pilgrims and basically hog the path if they are many.I have often noticed on the forum that pilgrims with the most blisters seem to be the younger ones (they assume they are invincible)...I was one of them once myself...a long time ago in my youth.
Till you’ve been hit by one!Just hit Galicia today (O'Cebreiro) and four days of rain forecast, not just the food and scenary changing.
Also, as mentioned by @Arn above, we have also seen some people I'll prepared for the heat and the cold.
Saw one guy with a homemade straw hat on the Meseta (very inventive) but he soon bought a better hat at the next town - Learning on the job.
Cyclist's, don't they ever invest in bells!! (BTW, I have nothing against cyclists (
Wonderful to see so many young people out getting exercise with the help of their friends.My blister healed a long way back. Never another problem. I have had a problem with bike riders: silently speed by, jump the path even into walking pilgrims and basically hog the path if they are many.
Today was different. As I departed Arzua just prior to dawn, it was sprinkling. Up ahead I could hear excited voices and see many flashing bike lights. Fine, I thought to myself, even in crappy weather they’re out in force.
As I weaved through them, they were blocking the walkway, I noticed all the bikes were trikes. The peddler had the back seat and the excited rider the front.
The riders were all disabled with one malady or another. Even in the rain they were so into the excitement of it all.
I am so humbled.
View attachment 110260
Yum!OK, I gave in just prior to Lavacola. I was walking with a fantastic French lady who mentioned she needed to stop for a protein hit. The first two “restaurants” didn’t have what we both needed “eggs and bacon.” Finally, at Casa Porta in San Paio, we hit the mother load. Power to the next 12 km and SDC.
Wow, Arn! That fabulous feast on a single plate will get you out to Finisterre!OK, I gave in just prior to Lavacola. I was walking with a fantastic French lady who mentioned she needed to stop for a protein hit. The first two “restaurants” didn’t have what we both needed “eggs and bacon.” Finally, at Casa Porta in San Paio, we hit the mother load. Power to the next 12 km and SDC.
Better get used to seeing fries on your plate... They are everywhere...Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn
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