LIVE from the Camino I’m on my way

[Esperanza]

I used the word confess, true, but I don’t feel any guilt or shame about booking ahead. It’s a practical choice that allows me to avoid the bed race, that’s all. I know where I want to be at the end of the day, anyhow, so why not? In the past I would just book day by day because that’s all that was necessary and I still retained flexibility, but this time I may work 2-3 days out. We’ll see if it’s necessary.

BTW, if someplace tells me that they will hold my reservation until 2 pm and it looks like I am going to be late, if I call them and state very clearly that I will be there by 2:30 or whenever, they have always kept my bed for me. Might not work for huge albergues, but for smaller ones or pensions, it has worked for me.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

I generally don’t mention it because it always seems to bring out “advice” to not do it. The bed race stresses me out and I need to keep my km to a reasonable number for my health. “There’s always another one in the next town” would be a disaster for me. And I know how much time I have and when my plane leaves for home so logical distances become pretty clear.

I also highly recommend informing the host if you’re not going to make it by 2.

 

[nycwalking]

I generally don’t mention it because it always seems to bring out “advice” to not do it. The bed race stresses me out and I need to keep my km to a reasonable number for my health. “There’s always another one in the next town” would be a disaster for me. And I know how much time I have and when my plane leaves for home so logical distances become pretty clear.

I also highly recommend informing the host if you’re not going to make it by 2.

It’s your camino.

Love your posts.

Buen camino.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Navarette to Najera

If you sometimes don’t sleep well and have a grumpy day at home, it happens on the Camino too. There was nothing inherently difficult on the trail today. It goes through vineyards mostly. But I didn’t sleep well, it’s been gray and cloudy, and today the walk just felt like work rather than a joy. I think it’s part of the experience to accept.

It was about an hour and a half to Ventosa. I had a good breakfast in Navarette, so I stopped at a park bench for some water and strawberries I bought yesterday and did some stretches.


The walk into Najera is not pleasant. It’s industrial.

Albergue Puente Najera…I cannot speak highly enough of the owner. She is so kind. I watched her turn away many pilgrims, holding beds, and then half of the reserved beds ended up empty. Then she had a group of women complain about wanting to move a pilgrim so they could giggle through the night. She accommodated left and right and by the end of the evening I wanted to hug her. It’s also a very nice albergue with spotless bathrooms.

Grabbed dinner and breakfast at the grocery store (managed to squeak in before it closed for siesta).

A woman approached me and asked me if I had walked with a pilgrim a few days ago. Apparently the Canadian who was my champion into Logrono told her to watch for me since she’s on a slower pace too lol Camino-info-line. Gotta love it.


Slept very well. Had my breakfast and headed out by 8 am.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Najera to Santo Domingo:

The walk is a bit of a zig zag through the other side of town but well marked. Once out of town I saw why medieval pilgrims feared bandits. They could have very easily lurked in this section.

Having a slow brain day. I somehow missed the arrow to Azofra and probably was 1/2 km off trail before I realized it. So I was late into Azofra.

I think most pilgrims end up nursing some sort of ailment along the way, whether it’s blisters, back, a knee, an ankle, etc. I am having some difficulty with a compressed nerve. It’s nothing serious. Multiple pregnancies caused it and I have dealt with it on and off for years. But it seems to be angry with me over the number of miles and gone haywire. So I’m stopping regularly now for extra stretches that I know relieve it, watching my posture (it’s easy to lean forward when using poles). Bleah. I’m sure there’s a Camino lesson in this but I haven’t figured out what it is yet.

The little rise on the elevation maps into Ciruena? Doesn’t reflect how it feels. There were several of us taking it slowly and getting winded. There’s a guy at the top selling shells and cold drinks. I went a little farther, and then decided I needed a break after all, so I dropped my pack and leaned up against it for 15 min in a very random spot. Altus poncho makes a good sit upon.

The walk today is beautiful. The last ascent before the descent into Santo Domingo is just stunning.

Day 2:

I thought that by now I’d have my “long distance legs” and be ready for 22+ km days. Nope

I spent most of last night both in pain and grieving over the loss of walking the entire distance this spring. But I’m also trying to be wise, to listen to my body. I noticed I’ve gone into survival mode rather than “this is fantastic” mode and I’m not a medieval pilgrim. That’s not supposed to be what it’s about.

In 2017 I walked Astorga to Santiago. I’ve decided to continue until Astorga and not repeat the section I’ve already done. I have a compostela and another one isn’t a priority for me. This will allow me to walk shorter days. When I get home I’ll frame my two credencials.

There’s a good laundromat in Santo Domingo. Lots of busy bars, too. Spent most of today reconsidering my proposed stages. I need to continue the longer stages until I get to Burgos, to keep beds during the Semana Santa season and because I also mailed myself a package that I need to receive on time.

The strawberries here in Spring are fantastic and I’ve been grabbing a package every couple of days. They don’t smoosh much if I keep them in an outside pocket.

Fwiw, I have not seen any evidence of bedbugs and I have heard zero stories of people encountering them since I arrived. It’s inevitable they will make an appearance as the crowds increase and the weather warms, but so far, so good.

Room Concept Hostel is clean and contemporary. If you’re looking for a private room with a shared bath, it fits the bill, and the breakfast (€6) is generous.

 

[RussB]

Najera to Santo Domingo:

The walk is a bit of a zig zag through the other side of town but well marked. Once out of town I saw why medieval pilgrims feared bandits. They could have very easily lurked in this section.

Having a slow brain day. I somehow missed the arrow to Azofra and probably was 1/2 km off trail before I realized it. So I was late into Azofra.

I think most pilgrims end up nursing some sort of ailment along the way, whether it’s blisters, back, a knee, an ankle, etc. I am having some difficulty with a compressed nerve. It’s nothing serious. Multiple pregnancies caused it and I have dealt with it on and off for years. But it seems to be angry with me over the number of miles and gone haywire. So I’m stopping regularly now for extra stretches that I know relieve it, watching my posture (it’s easy to lean forward when using poles). Bleah. I’m sure there’s a Camino lesson in this but I haven’t figured out what it is yet.

The little rise on the elevation maps into Ciruena? Doesn’t reflect how it feels. There were several of us taking it slowly and getting winded. There’s a guy at the top selling shells and cold drinks. I went a little farther, and then decided I needed a break after all, so I dropped my pack and leaned up against it for 15 min in a very random spot. Altus poncho makes a good sit upon.

The walk today is beautiful. The last ascent before the descent into Santo Domingo is just stunning.

Day 2:

I thought that by now I’d have my “long distance legs” and be ready for 22+ km days. Nope

I spent most of last night both in pain and grieving over the loss of walking the entire distance this spring. But I’m also trying to be wise, to listen to my body. I noticed I’ve gone into survival mode rather than “this is fantastic” mode and I’m not a medieval pilgrim. That’s not supposed to be what it’s about.

In 2017 I walked Astorga to Santiago. I’ve decided to continue until Astorga and not repeat the section I’ve already done. I have a compostela and another one isn’t a priority for me. This will allow me to walk shorter days. When I get home I’ll frame my two credencials.

There’s a good laundromat in Santo Domingo. Lots of busy bars, too. Spent most of today reconsidering my proposed stages. I need to continue the longer stages until I get to Burgos, to keep beds during the Semana Santa season and because I also mailed myself a package that I need to receive on time.

The strawberries here in Spring are fantastic and I’ve been grabbing a package every couple of days. They don’t smoosh much if I keep them in an outside pocket.

Fwiw, I have not seen any evidence of bedbugs and I have heard zero stories of people encountering them since I arrived. It’s inevitable they will make an appearance as the crowds increase and the weather warms, but so far, so good.

Room Concept Hostel is clean and contemporary. If you’re looking for a private room with a shared bath, it fits the bill, and the breakfast (€6) is generous.

Thanks for sharing, lovely descriptions of how it’s going.

 

[BookGirl305]

I am proud of you for finding the wisdom to recalculate your plans. Doing injury to yourself is not the end game. I am glad you are re-finding your joy for why you came.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

It never ceases to amaze me the conversations I hear in bunk rooms and on trail. I’ve shared the cool ones. Now I’m going to share the not so cool ones:

The bragging about 30+ km days.

The shaming of people who use pack transport.

The strange looks if you started a week before they did and aren’t further along.

The side eye if you listen to books or music while walking.

The discussion I overheard on trail about how if you aren’t suffering you aren’t a real pilgrim. …

And then there’s the “are you a religious pilgrim or…” and sometimes, the quiet assumption you must be a tourist.

The look I get when I mention it’s my husband taking care of the kids while I’m here.

The guy who overheard my conversation with another pilgrim about my neurodivergent child and decided to chime in that <insert random alternative health therapy> can fix that in two sessions, it’s caused by vaccines you know…oh and lip balm is inexplicably bad for you.

And if you ever took a cab or a bus and it’s not because you broke your leg? Don’t mention it.

The Camino is wonderful. The positives far outweigh these moments. But I wouldn’t feel like I was being honest if I didn’t share this side too. Eventually, it gets to you and it is easy to lose sight of what really matters.

I have a note on my phone. I wrote it before I left, a list of the reasons why I want to do this. I’m glad I have it, and I recommend the exercise of writing down your reasons where you can review them easily while on trail. Maybe you won’t look at it. But maybe you will need it when you are tired, your feet hurt, and you cannot remember why you thought this was a good idea.

 

[SabsP]

Oh @Eve Alexandra ...good you also wrote down these thoughts.
Very honest and I can relate to all.
And I would have had a hard time not to smack that guy who had the nerve to give you that " advice" regarding your child!

Sleep well and buen Camino!

 

[MilenaS]

Same thoughts @SabineP ! I am not a violent person, actually quite mellow. But that one would have pushed some real buttons. And if you had gone of @Eve Alexandra I think I would have been in your corner. Uuups... is that ok...?

Sleep well and buen camino!

 

[LaurenT]

You have to download a Spanish app and fill out a form, answer health questions and jump through their Covid hoops to get a QR code. They won’t let you even on your first domestic flight without this since they were checking on it all for both flights. There are tons of other posts on the health questionnaire app for more details. I don’t mind proving that I’m healthy. It was just initially intimidating because it’s unfamiliar.

If I get the health pass in France does that cover Spain as well or do I need specific Spanish one? Thank you.

 

[vjpdx]

Eve, I've been following your posts. Thank you. I really appreciate your voice and the unvarnished good, bad, and the ugly. I also might have decked the persons who made aspersions about you and your family. Man, that gets my goat.

Buen camino!

 

[trecile]

If I get the health pass in France does that cover Spain as well or do I need specific Spanish one? Thank you.

The Spanish QR code is only for those entering by air, so if you are crossing from France to Spain on foot, bus, car, or train you don't need it.

Spain Travel Health

www.spth.gob.es

 

[CaminoKentucky]

If I get the health pass in France does that cover Spain as well or do I need specific Spanish one? Thank you.

@LaurenT - France and Spain DO NOT have the same requirements. Here is what is required in France: https://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/en/c...-your-covid-19-questions-answered/#sommaire_2

Here is what is required for Spain:

Spain Travel Health

www.spth.gob.es

 

[nycwalking]

It never ceases to amaze me the conversations I hear in bunk rooms and on trail. I’ve shared the cool ones. Now I’m going to share the not so cool ones:

The bragging about 30+ km days.

The shaming of people who use pack transport.

The strange looks if you started a week before they did and aren’t further along.

The side eye if you listen to books or music while walking.

The discussion I overheard on trail about how if you aren’t suffering you aren’t a real pilgrim. …

And then there’s the “are you a religious pilgrim or…” and sometimes, the quiet assumption you must be a tourist.

The look I get when I mention it’s my husband taking care of the kids while I’m here.

The guy who overheard my conversation with another pilgrim about my neurodivergent child and decided to chime in that <insert random alternative health therapy> can fix that in two sessions, it’s caused by vaccines you know…oh and lip balm is inexplicably bad for you.

And if you ever took a cab or a bus and it’s not because you broke your leg? Don’t mention it.

The Camino is wonderful. The positives far outweigh these moments. But I wouldn’t feel like I was being honest if I didn’t share this side too. Eventually, it gets to you and it is easy to lose sight of what really matters.

I have a note on my phone. I wrote it before I left, a list of the reasons why I want to do this. I’m glad I have it, and I recommend the exercise of writing down your reasons where you can review them easily while on trail. Maybe you won’t look at it. But maybe you will need it when you are tired, your feet hurt, and you cannot remember why you thought this was a good idea.

Life is so good.

Love this post.

Vaya con Dios.

Happy Easter.

Buen camino.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Thank you. Reading your kindness and encouragement when I woke up this morning helped. Yesterday was rough.

And yeah I did want to deck that guy. I must have given him the mama bear evil eye when I said “and this is where we are going to disagree on medicine and you don’t know a thing about the American medical system.” He changed the subject when I turned my back.

On another note, someone here messaged me yesterday asking if I’ve heard about pilgrims getting Covid or coughing in the albergues. Just last night someone mentioned it at dinner. She knows two people isolating, and had a night in an albergue with someone coughing. I had a night with someone coughing, back in Pamplona, and I also got a message from someone yesterday that Ive stayed in touch with since Espinal. She thinks she has the flu. I asked if she tested but she ignored the question.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

8am: left Santo Domingo. Pleasant walk for the most part. Sun is shining. Look left for a pleasant view and avoid looking to the right where the highway is lol

The hospitality of the Spanish for pilgrims never ceases to amaze me. Beautiful artwork at the entrance to Granon. Even more so, the guy who opened his food truck for breakfast and coffee for pilgrims on a day when everything was shut down for Semana Santa. Astonishing.

There’s a lookout with a view at the edge of Granon that is stunning.

Another 15 mile day. I was worried about losing my bed since not everything is open. It was…not a good call. I now have added an overuse injury on my right foot.

Me: Come on body, we can do this! It’s a beautiful day!

Body: #%$&!!!!!

Had communal dinner tonight at Cuatro Cantones. Gazpacho (cold vegetable soup), fish and baby eel, wine and bread. Fantastic. I wasn’t sure what to make of the baby eel, but I figured it couldn’t hurt to try it. It’s not so bad. Tastes a little like pasta. A South African who lives in AU, A German biology teacher, a San Antonio guy who likes to mention he went to Woodstock, and a family of 4 from the Yukon were my table companions. Fun evening. This is a lovely albergue. Highly recommended. There were 6 bunks in the room I was in, and you can sit up straight without banging your head in the bottom bunk.

 

[J Willhaus]

8am: left Santo Domingo. Pleasant walk for the most part. Sun is shining. Look left for a pleasant view and avoid looking to the right where the highway is lol

The hospitality of the Spanish for pilgrims never ceases to amaze me. Beautiful artwork at the entrance to Granon. Even more so, the guy who opened his food truck for breakfast and coffee for pilgrims on a day when everything was shut down for Semana Santa. Astonishing.

There’s a lookout with a view at the edge of Granon that is stunning.

Another 15 mile day. I was worried about losing my bed since not everything is open. It was…not a good call. I now have added an overuse injury on my right foot.

Me: Come on body, we can do this! It’s a beautiful day!

Body: #%$&!!!!!

Had communal dinner tonight at Cuatro Cantones. Gazpacho (cold vegetable soup), fish and baby eel, wine and bread. Fantastic. I wasn’t sure what to make of the baby eel, but I figured it couldn’t hurt to try it. It’s not so bad. Tastes a little like pasta. A South African who lives in AU, A German biology teacher, a San Antonio guy who likes to mention he went to Woodstock, and a family of 4 from the Yukon were my table companions. Fun evening. This is a lovely albergue. Highly recommended. There were 6 bunks in the room I was in, and you can sit up straight without banging your head in the bottom bunk.

Our alberue contact in Granon said that they had 35-40 pilgrims a night at the donativo albergue there for Semana Santa. I think she is expecting it to quiet down a bit after the holiday. Hang in there! Do you have any leaway on your bookings? I walked much of the CF with a sprained ankle and plantar fasciitis and it really detracted from the daily joy of the experience.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Our alberue contact in Granon said that they had 35-40 pilgrims a night at the donativo albergue there for Semana Santa. I think she is expecting it to quiet down a bit after the holiday. Hang in there! Do you have any leaway on your bookings? I walked much of the CF with a sprained ankle and plantar fasciitis and it really detracted from the daily joy of the experience.

I do have some leeway. But I’m considering carefully both my injuries and also the increasing reports of Covid and careless pilgrims. I don’t know right now what’s the right thing to do. Hopefully it will become clearer to me in the next few days.

 

[vaiciusc]

Logrono to Navarette:

Had my breakfast in the common room at Winederful because it wasn’t crowded. Ate a little more of the ham and cheese offered, and I am now convinced I must eat more protein in the morning. Two slices of each instead of one each (plus one piece of bread and a good sized orange juice) and I felt strong for 8 miles.

Also? Good grief I am so glad I sent my trail runners on. I cannot believe what a difference I felt, even though I added a little weight back with crocs. It wasn’t that I was straining before. Just that this is so much better.

Made it to Navarette in, idk 3-3 1/2 hours? I wasn’t really watching because I met the most interesting young man and we walked most of the way together. We waved a Buen Camino on the outskirts of Logrono and I knew right away he was American so I asked him what state he was from. Turns out that while he’s a US citizen, he was born in Kurdistan. I mean really. How often do you meet someone who is Kurdish! The Camino is so cool. This is one of my favorite things. We talked US politics, middle eastern politics, the history of the Camino (mostly my knowledge) and about the AT (mostly his knowledge).

Honestly the walk from Logrono to Navarette is kind of blah. Not a lot of pretty views and also? Not well marked compared to other sections. He and I both stopped a few times to check our apps (him-guthook, me-Camino ninja) because it didn’t look right. A good stage to make sure you have an app to check, here and there. Not a particularly strenuous walk today.

I waved goodbye to the young man and he continued on to Najera. I found the square to rest for awhile since my pension is not open yet. Yes. Pension. I have a private room tonight. I haven’t done that since Espinal and I am excited!

Later:

Oh my goodness. Pension con encanto peregrinado is lovely. Definitely a splurge, but I am so ready for a little peace and quiet. One of the things about albergues is you always need to be ready to smile and have a conversation. I love meeting people and getting to know them but…sooooo peopled out. I messaged them to ask if I could check in one hour early and they kindly obliged.

Shower, laundry handed over to be washed, and then a few chores. I needed to look at what I’ve been spending and how much I have left and make sure it’s all working out. Thought maybe it might help someone to budget so this is what I noted:

I tend to stay at private albergues with a few more creature comforts, plus I like to support the small family owned businesses when I can. They are running about 15 euro, so I’m guessing municipals are running closer to 10. Communal dinners around 10-12 euro, Menu del Dia closer to 15 euro. I usually stop once a day for coffee and tortilla, which rarely costs more than 3ish. A drink in the afternoon around 2 euro. If I buy my dinner in a grocery store it’s closer to 8 euro but that usually includes something like trail mix for the next day (sometimes a chocolate bar lol). Paying for laundry or use of a washer/dryer is running anywhere from 6-8 euro. Desayuno at the albergue usually 3-5 euro. Rarely does this include good protein sources so I’ve started looking more closely at what’s included before paying ahead. And keeping an eye out for mercados when the albergue has a fridge.

I didn’t catch the name of it but there’s a bar to the left of the church. I had my tortilla and coffee there and returned later for dinner. Very nice. They also offer “English breakfast” with eggs, which I took advantage of.

Thanks for your posts - they are helpful!

 

[Sue127]

@Eve Alexandra thank you for such clearly written journals. Although I walked in 2020, it’s great to know what is happening now. Impatiently awaiting the beginning of July.

 

[Carla M.]

I have a note on my phone. I wrote it before I left, a list of the reasons why I want to do this. I’m glad I have it, and I recommend the exercise of writing down your reasons where you can review them easily while on trail. Maybe you won’t look at it. But maybe you will need it when you are tired, your feet hurt, and you cannot remember why you thought this was a good idea.

I could truly relate to your post, very honest and real. But as you said, it is also part of the Camino, and how we deal with it is part of our Camino.
Your suggestion to keep a note for the "rainy" moments is very good. I was wondering if an object could do the same, to remind us of why we are doing it.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

I could truly relate to your post, very honest and real. But as you said, it is also part of the Camino, and how we deal with it is part of our Camino.
Your suggestion to keep a note for the "rainy" moments is very good. I was wondering if an object could do the same, to remind us of why we are doing it.

I think whatever it is that reminds you of your purpose can work. I’m a big believer in touchstones. I’m wearing a bracelet (cheap one) with a unique bead for each of my children and my husband. I have some catholic medals and one that says “well behaved women rarely make history” on a sturdy string around my neck. And I journal. I actually do one long form journal a day on my phone throughout the day. Then I modify it for here, then for my one social media account with family (they’re not necessarily interested in the albergue I stayed in but get more of my philosophical ramblings for instance…heh), and my personal one. The note on my “why” is right there every day when I open to journal so it works well for me. But I think there are any number of ways and tools that could be useful.

 

[Carla M.]

I’m wearing a bracelet (cheap one) with a unique bead for each of my children and my husband. I have some catholic medals and one that says “well behaved women rarely make history” on a sturdy string around my neck.

You are indeed a very interesting woman. I also believe in the healthy coexistence of different beliefs
It is a pleasure to share this part of your journey, and a joy to read your journals.
Bueno Camino

 

[Eve Alexandra]

You are indeed a very interesting woman. I also believe in the healthy coexistence of different beliefs

Ha! “Interesting. That was diplomatically put lol Not offended. I’m aware I share both more and less than others. I do enjoy writing. Public travel diaries are a fun and harmless outlet for me.

I also believe in the healthy coexistence of different beliefs and don’t consider myself any one of them in particular.

 

[Richmond Gardner]

Especially in these times of reduced availability and capacity. It’s not like prepandemic times, when you could wing it.

 

[Richmond Gardner]

Especially in these times of reduced availability and capacity. It’s not like prepandemic times, when you could wing it.

Somehow I didn’t attach the first reply to Camino Chrissy’s post

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Somehow I didn’t attach the first reply to Camino Chrissy’s post

I had to go back to see. Yea I agree. While people are still winging it, I’d say more are starting to book a day or two ahead, because winging it isn’t going as well as they thought it would.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Belorado to Villafranca …and beyoonnd ( in best Buzz Lightyear voice)

Left early today. 7:30. Nothing was open for breakfast so I just decided to get going. I figured I’d see how the walk goes since I had planned a shorter day. It wasn’t easy, but I made it, in part because I met a kindred genx woman from NYC who is also nursing injuries so we walked a similar pace and both understood the 80s. We stopped for a good hour to have coffee and chocolate croissant (my first one since I got here).

Last night I first heard that Covid on the Camino is spreading, and fast. Within 24 hours I heard of several cases across the trail. This is an enormous concern for me. One I’m trying to process.

Kindred soul and I met up for drinks and then dinner at the San Anton Abad, a nice pilgrim menu. The two of us finished the bottle of wine and happily spent 2 hours gabbing and learning about each other’s families.

From today’s difficult walk I realized that I am going to have to take some rest days.

The foul weather the next day was just confirmation to me that now is the right time. It’s cold, windy, rainy, and my leg is calling me names for trying to use it (whispers: shut up leg). Plus my hostel for the next day generously refunded my payment when I told them I was injured and asked politely. Camino provides? Eh. More like the Spanish are just very kind to pilgrims. Either way the stars lined up for a cheap bus ride, so I took it.

Camino lesson: Maybe it’s time to finally let go of my compulsion to follow all the rules, all the time. Including my determination to not take busses.

I’m taking a few days to consider my injuries, Covid, and what’s the wisest decision for me.

 

[J Willhaus]

There is a bus from Villafranca to Burgos you may want to consider and then hole up for a few days to rest?
Edit: I see you found the bus? A couple of days will give you some time to consider. Just don't walk around too much. Lots to see in Burgos!

 

[alhartman]

Rest days never worked well for my body; but several 5-10k days did. And sometimes using a taxi early or late in the day to keep walking under 2-3 hours.
Yes, break the 'RULES". Except the one that says listen to your body.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

I figure you all have seen pics from all over the Camino. Nothing unusual about my photos. But. Look at this hot chocolate and churros. I took video because there’s no way to see just how thick it was from a picture. Omg. Death by chocolate thankyouverymuch.

 

[Schamber]

I figure you all have seen pics from all over the Camino. Nothing unusual about my photos. But. Look at this hot chocolate and churros. I took video because there’s no way to see just how thick it was from a picture. Omg. Death by chocolate thankyouverymuch.

Love this! I was wondering how thick the chocolate was! Where was this taken?

 

[Flatcap]

Yeah I’m keeping my eye out for grocery stores more and more. Ugh I hope the Meseta towns aren’t all ghost towns. I’ve never been on the Meseta before so don’t quite know what to expect other than what’s in guidebooks.

Lol on the town name that starts with Z. I had to scroll up to your post to spell it!

If you just have small snacks with you its no problem

 

[Eve Alexandra]

A Camino Reset

Early in the morning Villafranca Montes de Oca: Woke up at 5:30…am I the only one where things randomly begin to become clear at a time when it would be better to sleep? I did a lot of journaling.

Limped to the bus stop in the rain with a sore foot, a sore leg, and a sore soul.

9am took the bus to Burgos. The minute I was on the bus I felt my shoulders just sag from all the anxiety I was carrying (unrelated to my pack) And then I started yawning. Like. All morning. Clearly I underestimated my sleep needs in the last few weeks.

Wow the industrial side of Burgos is….well…now I get why so many recommend bypassing it.

Next I got my paq peregrino from Correos. Just a little bit proud of myself that I managed to communicate with the postal worker without google translate. I took French in high school so all the Spanish I know is what I have learned on the Camino.

Found a cafe for coffee, and then realized I still needed to do laundry, spent an hour in the Lavanderia and then I was able to check into my hostel. Dropped my stuff. Got under the covers and took a nap.

Kindred Soul also ended up in Burgos due to injury so we met up for early dinner (easier in big cities plus avoiding crowds) and then toured the Cathedral. It’s architecturally beautiful. But it didn’t much feel like a thin space to me. It feels like a museum. I am finding that I like the little churches more than the big cathedrals.

Days 2 and 3:

Who gets to decide what is “worth it” on a Camino? I slept well. Finally think I might be on Spain time, and I was able to think straight, examine both my concerns and my options, as well as check in with the dear husband, my faithful sounding board who regularly listens to me rant my fears (enneagram 6 anyone?) and pulls me back from the ledge.

We also discussed the budget (private rooms make a Camino more expensive), as well as this being a once in a lifetime experience with the extended amount of time I have. I canceled bookings in albergues with a lot of beds in one room. I booked some private rooms, some albergues with less beds per room, I’ve got several gaps too in my sleeping plans, currently. Hopefully it’ll come together.

I will be doing my best to eat outside, or when it isn’t the busy hour. Or via the grocery store. And increase vigilance with kn95 masks. And I’m only looking at one week at a time. Circumstances change. I want to hold lightly to my plans.

I mentioned I have a “why” list a few days ago? All the soul searching led to a new “why” list; goals I had, subconsciously, that rose to the forefront when I considered the possibility of going home.

It doesn’t look like the normal Camino goals list. It is a journey to an end point, but not the cathedral. I am prioritizing habit building and health gains that I want to take home with me. And I’ve got to reduce my km to deal with the compressed nerve.

Kindred Soul and I had tapas at la Quinta de Monje, recommended by a forum member (it was so good!) and then went to the Museum of Human Evolution. Fantastic. Well worth an hour or two of time.

And then the hot chocolate. It’s a cafe near the cathedral called Cafe Ibanez Chocolateria. It’s the first truly decadent dessert I’ve had since arriving in Spain and it was so worth it. Kindred Soul got the Bailey’s Frappe and said it was excellent.

Back to fabulous hostel, took some time to reorganize my pack, and repacked my box to mail to Santiago, too. Happy Hostal Corrales is contemporary, clean, and quiet. It’s not far off the trail and the owner is very available by WhatsApp if you need something.

 

[Corelacka]

Delighted to hear you have somewhere nice to rest up and are in a beautiful city to explore at your leisure. Love that you refer to the other perigrina/o as ‘Kindred Soulmate’! It is much more respectful of their privacy than sharing a mini bio on a public forum

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Burgos to Tardajos

I’m tired of feeling like crap. I’ve decided that 12-20 km tops is really good exercise when one is not in a trail, and it allows for other things like a peaceful morning that includes stretching and meditation, seeing a sight or two, enjoying a glass of wine with a good book, or just sitting in the sunshine (whenever it decides to return).

I keep forgetting that when I’m walking less km, I don’t need to leave by 8 am if the hostel doesn’t require it. Even though I’m slow as molasses, it’s still better to arrive closer to when the albergues are open. I’m determined to not leave before 9 am next time.

It’s cold and rainy and windy. This walk isn’t particularly hard. There’s not a lot to see where you want to take pictures. It’s a good stretch for earbuds if you like music or audiobooks. Or a good stretch for mulling over the #%*@ inside you that rises when you take long walks, day after day. And maybe dealing with it rather than stuffing it back down. Ymmv

Last hour was rough on my leg. I’ve got a note in to my doctor, about it. If I could get this under control, It will make the rest of the way much better. It’s a whole lot easier to take pleasant rest breaks when it’s not raining. The Camino is an adventure of epic proportions, and it’s a break from life, but it definitely is not a vacation. On the other hand, my glass of wine in the afternoon cost exactly 1.40 euro. It’s the rain that makes this area so green my eyes just want to drink it in.

Everyone’s experience of the Camino is unique. Mine this time is an overwhelming sense of feminine energy. I’m a mother of an unusually large family and it is what I do 24/7, mothering. Burnout after 2 years of a pandemic, trying to keep my family safe in one of those towns determined to ignore the health emergency… is an understatement. Yet the Camino mothers me, with Spanish kindness to wet soggy peregrinas like me yesterday, welcoming me in 2 hours early. The laundry that’s been done for me, the communal dinners made for me, the breakfasts that have been packed for me, the time an albergue owner gave me a lower bunk and told me others had asked for it but she held onto it, knowing someone was coming who would need it (and now I’m getting teary eyed remembering this moment). An adventure. Not a vacation. But something more…a word that I cannot find.

La Fabrica is beautiful, and the pilgrim meal is one of the best I’ve had, to date. Breakfast? Gorgeous. Second time in almost a month I’ve seen eggs offered and I jumped at the opportunity. Most pilgrims went on to Hornillos so it’s been a quiet night for me, one I relished. I’m glad to be out of the big city of Burgos.

 

[LavanyaLea]

Omg. Death by chocolate thankyouverymuch.

Love this! I was wondering how thick the chocolate was! Where was this taken?

And then the hot chocolate. It’s a cafe near the cathedral called Cafe Ibanez Chocolateria. It’s the first truly decadent dessert I’ve had since arriving in Spain and it was so worth it.

I love churros with super thick hot chocolate! If you want to take a souvenir home with you, the Valor “a la taza” hot choco (powder) is super good and the closest I found that can mimic the ones in the shop I used to bring some and even asked Spanish friends to bring some back to the UK…

I hope you feel better soon

 

[Eve Alexandra]

I love churros with super thick hot chocolate! If you want to take a souvenir home with you, the Valor “a la taza” hot choco (powder) is super good and the closest I found that can mimic the ones in the shop I used to bring some and even asked Spanish friends to bring some back to the UK…

I hope you feel better soon

In a grocery store or a specialty shop? I was actually thinking last night that a can of hot chocolate would make a good souvenir.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Burgos to Tardajos

I’m tired of feeling like crap. I’ve decided that 12-20 km tops is really good exercise when one is not in a trail, and it allows for other things like a peaceful morning that includes stretching and meditation, seeing a sight or two, enjoying a glass of wine with a good book, or just sitting in the sunshine (whenever it decides to return).

I keep forgetting that when I’m walking less km, I don’t need to leave by 8 am if the hostel doesn’t require it. Even though I’m slow as molasses, it’s still better to arrive closer to when the albergues are open. I’m determined to not leave before 9 am next time.

It’s cold and rainy and windy. This walk isn’t particularly hard. There’s not a lot to see where you want to take pictures. It’s a good stretch for earbuds if you like music or audiobooks. Or a good stretch for mulling over the #%*@ inside you that rises when you take long walks, day after day. And maybe dealing with it rather than stuffing it back down. Ymmv

Last hour was rough on my leg. I’ve got a note in to my doctor, about it. If I could get this under control, It will make the rest of the way much better. It’s a whole lot easier to take pleasant rest breaks when it’s not raining. The Camino is an adventure of epic proportions, and it’s a break from life, but it definitely is not a vacation. On the other hand, my glass of wine in the afternoon cost exactly 1.40 euro. It’s the rain that makes this area so green my eyes just want to drink it in.

Everyone’s experience of the Camino is unique. Mine this time is an overwhelming sense of feminine energy. I’m a mother of an unusually large family and it is what I do 24/7, mothering. Burnout after 2 years of a pandemic, trying to keep my family safe in one of those towns determined to ignore the health emergency… is an understatement. Yet the Camino mothers me, with Spanish kindness to wet soggy peregrinas like me yesterday, welcoming me in 2 hours early. The laundry that’s been done for me, the communal dinners made for me, the breakfasts that have been packed for me, the time an albergue owner gave me a lower bunk and told me others had asked for it but she held onto it, knowing someone was coming who would need it (and now I’m getting teary eyed remembering this moment). An adventure. Not a vacation. But something more…a word that I cannot find.

La Fabrica is beautiful, and the pilgrim meal is one of the best I’ve had, to date. Breakfast? Gorgeous. Second time in almost a month I’ve seen eggs offered and I jumped at the opportunity. Most pilgrims went on to Hornillos so it’s been a quiet night for me, one I relished. I’m glad to be out of the big city of Burgos.

You are lucky to have missed Hornillos. Every time I’ve been there it’s been crawling with bedbugs. Of course that is my own personal experience.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

You are lucky to have missed Hornitos. Every time I’ve been there it’s been crawling with bedbugs. Of course that is my own personal experience.

Hornillos? It’s after Tardajos

 

[Anniesantiago]

Hornillos? It’s after Tardajos

Hornillos. My phone autocorrects everything. Drives me nuts.

 

[J Willhaus]

Burgos to Tardajos

I’m tired of feeling like crap. I’ve decided that 12-20 km tops is really good exercise when one is not in a trail, and it allows for other things like a peaceful morning that includes stretching and meditation, seeing a sight or two, enjoying a glass of wine with a good book, or just sitting in the sunshine (whenever it decides to return).

I keep forgetting that when I’m walking less km, I don’t need to leave by 8 am if the hostel doesn’t require it. Even though I’m slow as molasses, it’s still better to arrive closer to when the albergues are open. I’m determined to not leave before 9 am next time.

It’s cold and rainy and windy. This walk isn’t particularly hard. There’s not a lot to see where you want to take pictures. It’s a good stretch for earbuds if you like music or audiobooks. Or a good stretch for mulling over the #%*@ inside you that rises when you take long walks, day after day. And maybe dealing with it rather than stuffing it back down. Ymmv

Last hour was rough on my leg. I’ve got a note in to my doctor, about it. If I could get this under control, It will make the rest of the way much better. It’s a whole lot easier to take pleasant rest breaks when it’s not raining. The Camino is an adventure of epic proportions, and it’s a break from life, but it definitely is not a vacation. On the other hand, my glass of wine in the afternoon cost exactly 1.40 euro. It’s the rain that makes this area so green my eyes just want to drink it in.

Everyone’s experience of the Camino is unique. Mine this time is an overwhelming sense of feminine energy. I’m a mother of an unusually large family and it is what I do 24/7, mothering. Burnout after 2 years of a pandemic, trying to keep my family safe in one of those towns determined to ignore the health emergency… is an understatement. Yet the Camino mothers me, with Spanish kindness to wet soggy peregrinas like me yesterday, welcoming me in 2 hours early. The laundry that’s been done for me, the communal dinners made for me, the breakfasts that have been packed for me, the time an albergue owner gave me a lower bunk and told me others had asked for it but she held onto it, knowing someone was coming who would need it (and now I’m getting teary eyed remembering this moment). An adventure. Not a vacation. But something more…a word that I cannot find.

La Fabrica is beautiful, and the pilgrim meal is one of the best I’ve had, to date. Breakfast? Gorgeous. Second time in almost a month I’ve seen eggs offered and I jumped at the opportunity. Most pilgrims went on to Hornillos so it’s been a quiet night for me, one I relished. I’m glad to be out of the big city of Burgos.

Glad you are on your way again. Take it slowly.

 

[trecile]

You are lucky to have missed Hornillos. Every time I’ve been there it’s been crawling with bedbugs. Of course that is my own personal experience.

A bit hyperbolic?

Fortunately, others of us have not experienced any bed bugs in Hornillos.

 

[Anniesantiago]

A bit hyperbolic?

Fortunately, others of us have not experienced any bed bugs in Hornillos.

Not hyperbolic at all. Like I said, my own personal experience - 3 strikes.

 

[sdevine]

Hola friends. One airplane, one very long wait at jfk, and then another airplane, and I arrived in Madrid. For all the stress over QR codes and such that many of us have felt, it all went smoothly. I was called up to the gate desk before my first flight to prove that I had a valid passport, a QR code, a vaccination card. Then he asked if I had 96€ per day that I will be in Spain in the bank but he didn’t ask me to prove it. This process covered my second flight too. We weren’t handed out paper cards at the end of the flight to Madrid like I experienced in 2017. I can’t quite remember now what was on the card but I suspect it was all the same stuff that I had to answer to get the QR code, so that may be why it’s been scrapped. Followed the longest hallway ever to immigration. That was the same as always. Passport. Drop your mask briefly to check picture. This is where it’s different. Around the corner from passport control were several dressed in white PPE, head to toe. They scanned my QR code then asked to see my proof of vaccination. She did look carefully at it, then handed it back and that was it.

If you need to take a shuttle from the airport to Atocha station, it’s very easily done. Out the doors by the baggage claim, follow the signs for the shuttle. 5 € cash and a 15-20 min ride to the station. From there I walked to my hostel. I stayed at Hostal Residencia Fernandez on the recommendation of someone here. It’s mostly quiet, very clean. Very safe for a solo female. It faces the square at the Reina Sofia. I skipped the museum in favor of a nap (jetlag hits me hard).

Using google walking directions it was easy enough to find several Correos offices to send yourself a package for later if necessary, as well as several Orange and Vodafone outlets to get a SIM card. Plenty of food options within the city center as well. The next morning I had my first cafe con leche (as wonderful as I remembered ) .

Then it was an easy walk back to the station to catch my train to Pamplona. When you enter the station it’s the building on your right for trains (The left is for the metro). More security (both bags and jacket). The digital boards showing the trains was simple to understand. Just in case you’re also from a place where public transportation is rare, at the bottom of your digital QR ticket in the center is a picture of a train with a number on it. That’s the car # to enter. To the right of that is your seat number.

Probably all of this is old hat to many of you, but I was completely overwhelmed by it all in 2017, so I want to pay it forward from my dear fellow peregrina who walked me through it, to anyone else who might also be nervous about what to expect. Renfe has an app for ticket purchase ahead of time. In the upper right hand corner you can choose English language if you need it. Fill it all out carefully, securely pay with a credit card and voila. QR code ticket. They will ask to see your passport, too, for identification. The recordings on the train are in English as well as Spanish once you’ve found your seat.

Buen Camino!

 

[LavanyaLea]

In a grocery store or a specialty shop?

Any standard supermarket should have it!

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Tardajos to Hornillos

Left a little after 9 am, after suiting up in waterproof socks and crocs (I was anticipating mud), light layers under my Altus, and fleece gloves. Todays walk was beautiful and would have been fabulous in the sunshine. The trail left the highway completely and wound around in gentle ascents and descents surrounded by emerald green. The one intermediate town, Rabe de La Calzada, is adorable. The trail is well marked.

The winds at 30 mph plus rain? Well, that was an experience. My Altus usually does a really good job of keeping most of my legs covered but the wind was so violent that I had red frozen thighs by the time I arrived. Lol I didn’t have my base layer leggings on because I wasn’t thinking about wind. I will definitely check wind forecast in the future. It was the kind of walking day where you’re very careful where you place your feet because you really don’t want to fall on your ass in the mud. I was glad for my poles. And everyone walked mostly head down once the wind kicked up because it was in our faces.

Arrived wet and cold but happy, at El Alfar de Hornillos. There’s nothing better than a hot shower after a walk like today, and the heat was on in all the rooms. The owner will oblige if you ask ahead of time to be placed in a room with fewer beds. The weather makes sight seeing really unappealing. I’ll be venturing out as little as possible.

I saw no evidence of bedbugs and no one complained this morning but just in case I was extra careful to not have my pack touch my bed and my bedding all went into a sealed bag this morning.

The communal dinner at El Alfar was nice. The breakfast I would not recommend paying for if you’re hoping for protein. I had hit up the tienda next door for yogurt ahead of time but the coffee wasn’t good either so I didn’t have much more than juice there.

 

[C clearly]

I've stayed at El Afar in Hornillos and very much enjoyed the friendly hospitality and the dinner.

 

[Former member 49149]

Burgos to Tardajos

I’m tired of feeling like crap. I’ve decided that 12-20 km tops is really good exercise when one is not in a trail, and it allows for other things like a peaceful morning that includes stretching and meditation, seeing a sight or two, enjoying a glass of wine with a good book, or just sitting in the sunshine (whenever it decides to return).

I keep forgetting that when I’m walking less km, I don’t need to leave by 8 am if the hostel doesn’t require it. Even though I’m slow as molasses, it’s still better to arrive closer to when the albergues are open. I’m determined to not leave before 9 am next time.

It’s cold and rainy and windy. This walk isn’t particularly hard. There’s not a lot to see where you want to take pictures. It’s a good stretch for earbuds if you like music or audiobooks. Or a good stretch for mulling over the #%*@ inside you that rises when you take long walks, day after day. And maybe dealing with it rather than stuffing it back down. Ymmv

Last hour was rough on my leg. I’ve got a note in to my doctor, about it. If I could get this under control, It will make the rest of the way much better. It’s a whole lot easier to take pleasant rest breaks when it’s not raining. The Camino is an adventure of epic proportions, and it’s a break from life, but it definitely is not a vacation. On the other hand, my glass of wine in the afternoon cost exactly 1.40 euro. It’s the rain that makes this area so green my eyes just want to drink it in.

Everyone’s experience of the Camino is unique. Mine this time is an overwhelming sense of feminine energy. I’m a mother of an unusually large family and it is what I do 24/7, mothering. Burnout after 2 years of a pandemic, trying to keep my family safe in one of those towns determined to ignore the health emergency… is an understatement. Yet the Camino mothers me, with Spanish kindness to wet soggy peregrinas like me yesterday, welcoming me in 2 hours early. The laundry that’s been done for me, the communal dinners made for me, the breakfasts that have been packed for me, the time an albergue owner gave me a lower bunk and told me others had asked for it but she held onto it, knowing someone was coming who would need it (and now I’m getting teary eyed remembering this moment). An adventure. Not a vacation. But something more…a word that I cannot find.

La Fabrica is beautiful, and the pilgrim meal is one of the best I’ve had, to date. Breakfast? Gorgeous. Second time in almost a month I’ve seen eggs offered and I jumped at the opportunity. Most pilgrims went on to Hornillos so it’s been a quiet night for me, one I relished. I’m glad to be out of the big city of Burgos.

I just want to tell you that I appreciate your generous spirit, clear in your writing. The camino is always one step at a time, and that will be my prayer for you today, soo you may arrive safe and well at your destination today.

 

[Carla M.]

Arrived wet and cold but happy

So happy for you. I hope the next day weather is nicer so you can skip the wet and cold part

 

[Murgyman]

Hornillos. My phone autocorrects everything. Drives me nuts.

You can turn off autocorrect under your keyboard settings

 

[Eve Alexandra]

What’s in my pack

I’ve had a few messages from some really lovely forum members, those less experienced with the Camino. And they’re all going to be on trail before I get home to do the “empty my pack with me” thing. I’ve been on trail 25 days and that’s plenty to say what’s working for me. This is an “I’m 51 and female” list.

I don’t know how much my pack weighs right now because I’ve added and subtracted a few things along the way. It’s probably within the 10% of ideal weight range, and I only notice my pack feeling heavy when I’m carrying extra water and food.

The Old Navy pants I posted about elsewhere on the forum are working well. I have two pair of them. I have two 32 Degrees brand short sleeved “cool” shirts, one 32 Degrees long sleeved “heat” shirt and one 150 wt merino long sleeved shirt. I wear the pants and short sleeves every day and the synthetic goes on top of the t shirt on cool days ( which so far is every single day). In the evening I wear the second pants with just the merino shirt without a short sleeve under it. If the wind is blowing I wear a Patagonia ultralight windbreaker. I also have a pair of lightweight capris. I’ve used them a few times and expect to use them more as the weather warms up. I don’t do shorts so this is my alternative.

I have three sets of socks (3 toe socks/3 regular) and I wear one set for the walk. I usually just wear the single normal socks at night.

Two bras are fine as long as you get them comfy enough to wear to sleep (Old Navy again).

I’ve got a lightweight cotton t shirt I wear to sleep in every single night. I can’t sleep in synthetic. It’s ick. And I have a pair of 9 inch inseam mens merino boxers or a pair of baselayer merino leggings to sleep in. Either of these can also go under day clothes when the weather requires it and are breathable for sleeping. Bonus? They’re plenty modest for an albergue.

I brought one pair of mens Ex Officio boxers and 2 pair Ex Officio womens undies and damn I wish I had brought 2 boxers instead. Coming out of the shower I can put on the boxers, bra and t shirt and then modesty wise I can step out of the wet shower area to put my pants on without getting them wet on the floor. And they’re incredibly comfortable to walk in.

I’ve got two ikea market bags (38 grams each) and I use both of them every single day. One bag has my shower stuff in it. I use the other for my electronics/valuables and clean clothes. When I’m out of the shower I put the dirty clothes into the shower bag to be washed. And then around town or around the albergue the bag with my valuables goes everywhere with me.

Picture is of my shower contraption I worked out. 4 mesh bags on a double S clip with a sunglasses string. It’s working really well and there’s pretty much always a place to hang it. I tie it up on the bunk to dry out or set it under the bunk on a ziplock if there’s nowhere to hang it. I’ve got a pareo as my towel and a wool buff I use as a hair wrap when I wash my hair, or can also be used as a wool beanie on cold days.

I’d be lost without my Altus, my sticks, and my waist pack all of which I bought on trail. And then my sun gloves and sun sleeves on hot days and my fleece mittens that pull back into fingerless gloves on cool mornings. All inexpensive Amazon purchases. And my waterproof socks (Randy Sun brand, also Amazon). @trecile mentioned them somewhere on the forum and I’ve used them quite a few times. They’re weirdly comfortable (I wear my thinnest toe socks under them), and genuinely keep your feet dry no matter what shoes you wear.

I’ve got one buff cut into two and I use them every day, too. One covers my ears and keeps my hair out of my face. If it’s really cold I wear both over my ears. Otherwise the other is around my neck to use as a face covering if it’s windy or to get it wet to keep my neck cool and to keep it covered in sun. One full buff is too much fabric for these needs. I’ve got a lightweight sun visor that’s a little broader than most (Sunday Afternoon brand, Amazon). I like it except it blows off in windy weather. I use one of the half buffs to keep it on my head in wind. The Altus hood is way too much fabric and I’d never be able to see where I’m going if I didn’t wear the visor under the hood and then I fold back the brim of the Altus.

I am using disposable face masks for Covid safety and I use them on a sunglasses strings around my neck.

I brought Old Navy flip flops but ditched them for real crocs and do not regret it. When your legs are tired it’s just too easy to trip in flip flops, especially as someone over 50. And waterproof socks plus crocs are perfect for wet/muddy days.

I brought my Fitbit and I use it every day, no regrets. I like having the meditation options, the alarm that vibrates my wrist but no one can hear it, and seeing my steps.

Instead of earplugs I brought one of those headbands with Bluetooth speakers (Amazon). It charges with a usb cord. I hate earplugs. I sleep with the tv on for white noise at home already so I downloaded the same program I use at home to my phone, and use this every night. I do not hear snorers. I could also use it to cover my eyes if I needed to.

I have entirely too many lightweight dry bags and ziplocks and don’t regret it in the slightest lol. Organization helps my brain. And I’m using a trash compactor bag as a pack liner. I like to double up on water protection.

Neutrogena makes a face sunscreen bar, spf 50 I think. I took it out of the container, wrapped it in wax paper and it’s working very well for face and arms as necessary. Don’t do what I did and decide to rub your pants with some sunscreen left on your hands. It won’t come out in the wash. HiBar brand shampoo and conditioner bars are a thumbs up. Way better than the Lush bar I used in 2017.

Ymmv when it comes to sleeping bag, hiking shoes, the need for a jacket or whatever. That’s all really personal and depends on if you run hot or cold. I’m in teva sandals exclusively now that I’m out of the snow. I’m using a silk liner with the infamous Costco quilt for sleep, and my long sleeved shirts plus my windbreaker are fine with no need for a fleece (windbreaker weighs something like 6 Oz and fits in a quart size ziplock). Around me, people who run cold have real sleeping bags and puffy coats as well as a fleece. Most are hiking in mid height hiking boots. And most of them have blisters. Just sayin’

In the morning I have small bag that holds just my toothbrush stuff and my deodorant under my bed. I use it and toss it into the ikea shower bag and then the whole thing goes into my pack (sleep system in its own bag goes in first). A 2 gallon ziplock under bunk holds my clothes. I add pjs back to it and it goes into the pack next. Last to go in is my dry bag with journal and electronics. This and waistpack are inside my silk liner all night for safety. I also keep a chapstick and my daily scrips/vitamins in this bag because I am in it a lot in the evening, with my kindle and cords, so it makes it easy to remember to fill the tiny pill box I brought for each day, before I read. I have chapsticks in every pocket. I can’t stand not being able to find one when I need it so that’s why there’s one in the electronics/journal drybag lol.

Having a system for when I get up in the morning, my little piles under the bunk (which includes my clothes for the day) helps a lot. I get dressed, stack 4 bags into my pack and know I’ve got everything in there. Idk what I’d do in a top bunk. So far I’ve managed to avoid that.

I highly recommend setting up WhatsApp on your phone before you leave. Everyone here uses it. And I’m using the Camino ninja app daily.

 

[trecile]

And my waterproof socks (Randy Sun brand, also Amazon). @trecile mentioned them somewhere on the forum and I’ve used them quite a few times.

It's good to know that the Randy Sun brand is good. I've seen those on Amazon, but stuck with the SealSkinz brand because they had been recommended here by @Kanga.

The Randy Sun socks come in some fun designs!

 

[C clearly]

Good post about your equipment and how you organize it all in a personal way - everyone needs to find their own little routine. It sounds like you have a good one.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Hornillos is a cute little town. I didn’t see any of it yesterday due to the weather. The sun was shining when I left and the walk today is gorgeous. Green green everywhere. I found a rock with a view to die for, so I stopped and just enjoyed the sun. There are a few small ascents from Burgos to Hontanas (over 3 days for me) and I realized today that I handled them all without having to rest halfway and without being winded. They aren’t like the massive ascents in Navarra, but still. This is real progress for my lungs and that is one of my goals for this Camino, getting my strength back. It was a moment of real joy today, this realization.

Halfway into today’s walk I realized I made the wrong shoe choice. I should have worn my waterproof socks with the crocs again. Mud mud mud everywhere! And once I hit the worst of it I was stuck for awhile until I could find a spot to step out of it and switch. My hiking sandals were a mess. I stuck them in a gallon ziplock which covered enough of the mess to get them into the stretchy outside pocket, figured my socks were already muddy no sense in changing them, and then proceeded to get my crocs completely covered in mud. Lol It was the kind of mud where your shoe makes a suction noise pulling it up. I stepped very very carefully, and made heavy use of my sticks to find spots with semi decent footing.

Landed smiling in Hontanas. I checked in to Santa Brigida but had a bit of time to wait until their albergue opened up at 1pm. I used that time to take advantage of their outdoor hose and sink and it took a good 30 minutes to get both sets of shoes clean. The gentleman owner speaks 4 languages. I asked him about it after I had seen him use 3 to check other people in. He’s very nice.

Once I got the tour of the albergue, honestly my jaw hit the floor. This is the most spacious beautiful albergue I have ever seen. Gorgeous walls of glass surrounding the area for communal dinner. The bunks are sturdy, I can sit up in it, and they are spaced quite far apart, with very high ceilings for ventilation. The shower area is beautiful and they have rain shower heads very high up. In Navarra the communal meal was often lentils. In Castilla Y Leon it’s paella with chicken. It’s tasty, and the traditional paella pots are so cool. But also? If you get 2 Oz total of chicken on your dinner plate you’re doing well. Not a bad idea to have some back up protein planned.

Be aware that if you pay to have the owner wash and dry your clothes (some won’t let you use their machines) the likelihood of your clothes being returned to you still damp is high. This has happened so many times now I just sort of expect it and make sure there’s a place to hang them to finish drying overnight.

This is the third day of about 12 km days and my nerve compression is under control as long as I keep to my routines for it, and when I arrive my feet don’t feel like mincemeat and the foot arch overuse injury is gone. I’m tired like after a good workout, but not feeling like I want to curl up in my bunk and die. My joy has returned. I’m having fun again.

Camino Lesson: Walk my own damn Camino, and let the others scoff at my shorter distances. And they do scoff. Every single time distance comes up, and it comes up a lot. This is a fine opportunity to learn to ignore the judgment of others, something I’m not good at. But maybe by the end I’ll be good at it.

 

[linkster]

Camino Lesson: Walk my own damn Camino, and let the others scoff at my shorter distances. And they do scoff. Every single time distance comes up, and it comes up a lot. This is a fine opportunity to learn to ignore the judgment of others, something I’m not good at. But maybe by the end I’ll be good at it.

+1 The comparison is irrelevant. But, if you want to go down that path ... I think they are the ones missing out.

 

[J Willhaus]

We try to never walk more than 10 miles per day. We know our limits! Let the others have their longer distances. You must listen to your body.

 

[peregrina2000]

Camino Lesson: Walk my own damn Camino, and let the others scoff at my shorter distances.

These are probably the same people who tell those who walk 35-40 km days that they need to stop and smell the roses. They are the ones who have figured out the perfect distance and the true meaning of the camino. Hard to ignore them, but you have risen above it —

My joy has returned. I’m having fun again.

So happy to read those words!

 

[jpflavin1]

Hornillos is a cute little town. I didn’t see any of it yesterday due to the weather. The sun was shining when I left and the walk today is gorgeous. Green green everywhere. I found a rock with a view to die for, so I stopped and just enjoyed the sun. There are a few small ascents from Burgos to Hontanas (over 3 days for me) and I realized today that I handled them all without having to rest halfway and without being winded. They aren’t like the massive ascents in Navarra, but still. This is real progress for my lungs and that is one of my goals for this Camino, getting my strength back. It was a moment of real joy today, this realization.

Halfway into today’s walk I realized I made the wrong shoe choice. I should have worn my waterproof socks with the crocs again. Mud mud mud everywhere! And once I hit the worst of it I was stuck for awhile until I could find a spot to step out of it and switch. My hiking sandals were a mess. I stuck them in a gallon ziplock which covered enough of the mess to get them into the stretchy outside pocket, figured my socks were already muddy no sense in changing them, and then proceeded to get my crocs completely covered in mud. Lol It was the kind of mud where your shoe makes a suction noise pulling it up. I stepped very very carefully, and made heavy use of my sticks to find spots with semi decent footing.

Landed smiling in Hontanas. I checked in to Santa Brigida but had a bit of time to wait until their albergue opened up at 1pm. I used that time to take advantage of their outdoor hose and sink and it took a good 30 minutes to get both sets of shoes clean. The gentleman owner speaks 4 languages. I asked him about it after I had seen him use 3 to check other people in. He’s very nice.

Once I got the tour of the albergue, honestly my jaw hit the floor. This is the most spacious beautiful albergue I have ever seen. Gorgeous walls of glass surrounding the area for communal dinner. The bunks are sturdy, I can sit up in it, and they are spaced quite far apart, with very high ceilings for ventilation. The shower area is beautiful and they have rain shower heads very high up. In Navarra the communal meal was often lentils. In Castilla Y Leon it’s paella with chicken. It’s tasty, and the traditional paella pots are so cool. But also? If you get 2 Oz total of chicken on your dinner plate you’re doing well. Not a bad idea to have some back up protein planned.

Be aware that if you pay to have the owner wash and dry your clothes (some won’t let you use their machines) the likelihood of your clothes being returned to you still damp is high. This has happened so many times now I just sort of expect it and make sure there’s a place to hang them to finish drying overnight.

This is the third day of about 12 km days and my nerve compression is under control as long as I keep to my routines for it, and when I arrive my feet don’t feel like mincemeat and the foot arch overuse injury is gone. I’m tired like after a good workout, but not feeling like I want to curl up in my bunk and die. My joy has returned. I’m having fun again.

Camino Lesson: Walk my own damn Camino, and let the others scoff at my shorter distances. And they do scoff. Every single time distance comes up, and it comes up a lot. This is a fine opportunity to learn to ignore the judgment of others, something I’m not good at. But maybe by the end I’ll be good at it.

Good to hear you are enjoying your Camino again. The Camino to me is the ideal place on earth. I find it an easy environment to turn off the noise.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Eve Alexandra]

To Castrojeriz

Today is one of those days that explains why some become addicted to walking the Camino. The sun is shining, the walk stunning. And then halfway through today’s walk, the ruins of San Anton Convent rise in front of you. Then you stroll away from the convent and can see the town in the distance, with the cool castle ruins above. I didn’t sleep well last night so I’m grateful for the short walk.

I’m at A Cien Leguas. If you’re here on a sunny day, their back porch can’t be beat for beautiful views and enjoying the warmth. The bathrooms are clean. The albergue is a little tight but there aren’t many people here so it’s fine. The owner is genuinely charming and the peregrino menu began service at 6:30!

 

[J Willhaus]

Are finding the crowds have thinned after Easter? Are you still reserving ahead?

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Are finding the crowds have thinned after Easter? Are you still reserving ahead?

It seems like when I land in a town that’s a traditional end stage it’s busy, but when I’m off stage it’s not as hard to find a bed. I’m booking ahead because “just walk to the next town if everything is full” doesn’t work for me.

 

[jpflavin1]

It seems like when I land in a town that’s a traditional end stage it’s busy, but when I’m off stage it’s not as hard to find a bed. I’m booking ahead because “just walk to the next town if everything is full” doesn’t work for me.

Tomorrow morning you have a steep but short climb. I know you have not been a early starter, in the am.
That said, if you climb the hill before sunup, the sunrise from the hilltop is worth the early morning effort.

 

[MilenaS]

If you get a chance to visit and it is still open there is a magical place called Hospital del Alma. I loved it in there. Castrojeritz was the end of my last Camino and that place was where I cried for an hour. And I needed it.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

To Boadilla Del Camino

The morning is full of sunshine again. Had breakfast and waited about 45 minutes for the taxi that the albergue owner called for both me and Italian guy. Both of us being careful with leg issues, and there’s a descent in this stretch with an 18% grade. No. Just. No. I’ve done enough of those scary descents to know that it sets me back a couple of days. I’m finally feeling strong and won’t risk my recovery on that. Especially when I’ve been setting a pace in preparation for the full 17 km to Calzadilla.

I asked the taxi driver to drop me off at San Nicolas. Italian guy also spoke Spanish and said, “he says he can do that but it’s the same cost for San Nicolas or Itero de La Vega.”

Me: “Great! San Nicolas, please. “ So he dropped me off, and then Italian guy at Itero.

The walk into Itero is beautiful. A river side stroll, with some beautiful trees. Then the big sky and rolling farmland into Boadilla. Very peaceful.

En El Camino is beautiful (albergue, hotel, gorgeous patio, restaurant). The guy who runs it is always singing, and quite the charmer. He remembered my name and exclaimed “Ev-ie!” whenever I came into the common area. Have you ever met someone where you can just tell this person loves their job? He’s that guy.

Not a lot of services in the way of mercados, farmacias, in this area, as well as Castrojeriz. Make sure you’re stocked up on snacks or whatever else you might need.

 

[good_old_shoes]

Not a lot of services in the way of mercados, farmacias, in this area, as well as Castrojeriz.

Castrojeriz has a supermarket as well as a farmacia, bank, ect. They're not directly on the Camino if I remember correctly, you have to walk a few meters off route to find them. Not far, they're just not visible from the Camino. It was south of the albergue municipal I think, down some steps. Good ressource to stock up for the walk to Fromista. I could be wrong though, maybe they closed during Covid?

The walk from Castrojeriz to Boadilla is really beautiful. It must be lovely now with the spring colours. In summer it's all dry, but there were lovely sunflowers then.

Good to read that you're enjoying the Camino again

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Castrojeriz has a supermarket as well as a farmacia, bank, ect. They're not directly on the Camino if I remember correctly, you have to walk a few meters off route to find them. Not far, they're just not visible from the Camino. It was south of the albergue municipal I think, down some steps. Good ressource to stock up for the walk to Fromista. I could be wrong though, maybe they closed during Covid?

The walk from Castrojeriz to Boadilla is really beautiful. It must be lovely now with the spring colours. In summer it's all dry, but there were lovely sunflowers then.

Good to read that you're enjoying the Camino again

I’m not sure. I ran searches on google maps several times and nothing really came up. Maybe I just used the wrong search words.

 

[Former member 49149]

To Boadilla Del Camino

The morning is full of sunshine again. Had breakfast and waited about 45 minutes for the taxi that the albergue owner called for both me and Italian guy. Both of us being careful with leg issues, and there’s a descent in this stretch with an 18% grade. No. Just. No. I’ve done enough of those scary descents to know that it sets me back a couple of days. I’m finally feeling strong and won’t risk my recovery on that. Especially when I’ve been setting a pace in preparation for the full 17 km to Calzadilla.

I asked the taxi driver to drop me off at San Nicolas. Italian guy also spoke Spanish and said, “he says he can do that but it’s the same cost for San Nicolas or Itero de La Vega.”

Me: “Great! San Nicolas, please. “ So he dropped me off, and then Italian guy at Itero.

The walk into Itero is beautiful. A river side stroll, with some beautiful trees. Then the big sky and rolling farmland into Boadilla. Very peaceful.

En El Camino is beautiful (albergue, hotel, gorgeous patio, restaurant). The guy who runs it is always singing, and quite the charmer. He remembered my name and exclaimed “Ev-ie!” whenever I came into the common area. Have you ever met someone where you can just tell this person loves their job? He’s that guy.

Not a lot of services in the way of mercados, farmacias, in this area, as well as Castrojeriz. Make sure you’re stocked up on snacks or whatever else you might need.

I am enjoying your reports, Eve Alexandra. I know the place in Boadilla. It was for my companion and me the embodiment of an oasis. The chap was a bit younger then, his mama was la dueña. It was a real treat. The clean fresh converted henhouse, the kidney pool, the upper area with the shade and the refreshments, the dining area inside... and of course himself, charming one and all! There was nothing else there at all. What did we need, outside of that beautiful enclosure? Next day, Fromista was within close reach for any needs.
You will be enjoying the rest of your day, soak it up.
ps: €5.00 for the lodging, the meal was maybe €7?

 

[J Willhaus]

Pharmacia, bank, grocery store all located in Fromista. Also in Carrion de los Condes. Stock up because it is sparse after that until Sahagun.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I’m not sure. I ran searches on google maps several times and nothing really came up. Maybe I just used the wrong search words.

When my "kids" and I walked the Frances together in 2017 we stopped at a grocery store in Castrojerez and purchased our "dinner" items as I didn't recall restaurants, although this hotel had some seating in this lovely square with views off to the right. We sat opposite it where I took this photo. Castrojerez is a wonderful village and if you have time and feel well enough, the castle on the hill is outstanding.

 

[naplesdon]

Logrono to Navarette:

Had my breakfast in the common room at Winederful because it wasn’t crowded. Ate a little more of the ham and cheese offered, and I am now convinced I must eat more protein in the morning. Two slices of each instead of one each (plus one piece of bread and a good sized orange juice) and I felt strong for 8 miles.

Also? Good grief I am so glad I sent my trail runners on. I cannot believe what a difference I felt, even though I added a little weight back with crocs. It wasn’t that I was straining before. Just that this is so much better.

Made it to Navarette in, idk 3-3 1/2 hours? I wasn’t really watching because I met the most interesting young man and we walked most of the way together. We waved a Buen Camino on the outskirts of Logrono and I knew right away he was American so I asked him what state he was from. Turns out that while he’s a US citizen, he was born in Kurdistan. I mean really. How often do you meet someone who is Kurdish! The Camino is so cool. This is one of my favorite things. We talked US politics, middle eastern politics, the history of the Camino (mostly my knowledge) and about the AT (mostly his knowledge).

Honestly the walk from Logrono to Navarette is kind of blah. Not a lot of pretty views and also? Not well marked compared to other sections. He and I both stopped a few times to check our apps (him-guthook, me-Camino ninja) because it didn’t look right. A good stage to make sure you have an app to check, here and there. Not a particularly strenuous walk today.

I waved goodbye to the young man and he continued on to Najera. I found the square to rest for awhile since my pension is not open yet. Yes. Pension. I have a private room tonight. I haven’t done that since Espinal and I am excited!

Later:

Oh my goodness. Pension con encanto peregrinado is lovely. Definitely a splurge, but I am so ready for a little peace and quiet. One of the things about albergues is you always need to be ready to smile and have a conversation. I love meeting people and getting to know them but…sooooo peopled out. I messaged them to ask if I could check in one hour early and they kindly obliged.

Shower, laundry handed over to be washed, and then a few chores. I needed to look at what I’ve been spending and how much I have left and make sure it’s all working out. Thought maybe it might help someone to budget so this is what I noted:

I tend to stay at private albergues with a few more creature comforts, plus I like to support the small family owned businesses when I can. They are running about 15 euro, so I’m guessing municipals are running closer to 10. Communal dinners around 10-12 euro, Menu del Dia closer to 15 euro. I usually stop once a day for coffee and tortilla, which rarely costs more than 3ish. A drink in the afternoon around 2 euro. If I buy my dinner in a grocery store it’s closer to 8 euro but that usually includes something like trail mix for the next day (sometimes a chocolate bar lol). Paying for laundry or use of a washer/dryer is running anywhere from 6-8 euro. Desayuno at the albergue usually 3-5 euro. Rarely does this include good protein sources so I’ve started looking more closely at what’s included before paying ahead. And keeping an eye out for mercados when the albergue has a fridge.

I didn’t catch the name of it but there’s a bar to the left of the church. I had my tortilla and coffee there and returned later for dinner. Very nice. They also offer “English breakfast” with eggs, which I took advantage of.

Probably the Bar Depotivo.

 

[naplesdon]

Ladies, I think it is a sad day when people are made to feel guilty or have done something wrong if they choose to book ahead. I have experienced all the varieties every year since 2015. That first year I winged every night's sleep; next booked ahead partially a couple of years; and finally I pre-arranged everything before I left home in 2019, and also in 2020 before the pandemic caused me to cancel.
To each their own...no confessions are needed. It's a shame that sometimes the vibe on the forum makes people feel they are cheating.

Agreed

 

[naplesdon]

Totally unfair comment about the Meseta

 

[naplesdon]

Yeah I’m keeping my eye out for grocery stores more and more. Ugh I hope the Meseta towns aren’t all ghost towns. I’ve never been on the Meseta before so don’t quite know what to expect other than what’s in guidebooks.

Lol on the town name that starts with Z. I had to scroll up to your post to spell it!

The Meseta is heaven. No ghost towns. Pay no attention to the idiots who write guidebooks for idiots…

 

[Eve Alexandra]

I’ve been thinking all week, what the heck? All I’ve seen since Burgos is big blue skies and green rolling hills. I love it.

 

[Lindsay from Scotland]

I’ve been thinking all week, what the heck? All I’ve seen since Burgos is big blue skies and green rolling hills. I love it.

Bless you Eve Alexandera !

I am off on my 5th camino next week starting in Le Puy and I’ve been worried about my level of fitness.

But ‘What the heck’ or ‘Que le heck’. I am going to be like you and just do it.

Lx

 

[Sirron]

It never ceases to amaze me the conversations I hear in bunk rooms and on trail. I’ve shared the cool ones. Now I’m going to share the not so cool ones:

The bragging about 30+ km days.

The shaming of people who use pack transport.

The strange looks if you started a week before they did and aren’t further along.

The side eye if you listen to books or music while walking.

The discussion I overheard on trail about how if you aren’t suffering you aren’t a real pilgrim. …

And then there’s the “are you a religious pilgrim or…” and sometimes, the quiet assumption you must be a tourist.

The look I get when I mention it’s my husband taking care of the kids while I’m here.

The guy who overheard my conversation with another pilgrim about my neurodivergent child and decided to chime in that <insert random alternative health therapy> can fix that in two sessions, it’s caused by vaccines you know…oh and lip balm is inexplicably bad for you.

And if you ever took a cab or a bus and it’s not because you broke your leg? Don’t mention it.

The Camino is wonderful. The positives far outweigh these moments. But I wouldn’t feel like I was being honest if I didn’t share this side too. Eventually, it gets to you and it is easy to lose sight of what really matters.

I have a note on my phone. I wrote it before I left, a list of the reasons why I want to do this. I’m glad I have it, and I recommend the exercise of writing down your reasons where you can review them easily while on trail. Maybe you won’t look at it. But maybe you will need it when you are tired, your feet hurt, and you cannot remember why you thought this was a good idea.

If people are judgmental and rude in the real world....probably will be on the camino haha. I will just try to tune most out who act like that!

 

[Corned Beef]

En El Camino is indeed a beautiful albergue. I stopped for some soup for lunch there on the patio. Some sort of bean soup that looked more like a dahl. Not to my taste so I didn't take much. The owner would not take any payment despite me offering. He does care about his pilgrims and reputation.

It's on my list should I return but I will pass on the soup.

 

[trecile]

I’ve been thinking all week, what the heck? All I’ve seen since Burgos is big blue skies and green rolling hills. I love it.

Yup, sounds like the Meseta in the Spring!

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Bless you Eve Alexandera !

I am off on my 5th camino next week starting in Le Puy and I’ve been worried about my level of fitness.

But ‘What the heck’ or ‘Que le heck’. I am going to be like you and just do it.

Lx

Well don’t do what I did and do too many miles in the first two weeks. Le Puy is on my list of walks I’d love to do in the future, when I’m a little stronger and my French is better lol

 

[VNwalking]

I’ve been thinking all week, what the heck? All I’ve seen since Burgos is big blue skies and green rolling hills. I love it.

Heaven.
Listen for the Skylarks! The song spiralling down endlessly from God knows where way up there.

 

[Ali@59]

To Boadilla Del Camino

The morning is full of sunshine again. Had breakfast and waited about 45 minutes for the taxi that the albergue owner called for both me and Italian guy. Both of us being careful with leg issues, and there’s a descent in this stretch with an 18% grade. No. Just. No. I’ve done enough of those scary descents to know that it sets me back a couple of days. I’m finally feeling strong and won’t risk my recovery on that. Especially when I’ve been setting a pace in preparation for the full 17 km to Calzadilla.

I asked the taxi driver to drop me off at San Nicolas. Italian guy also spoke Spanish and said, “he says he can do that but it’s the same cost for San Nicolas or Itero de La Vega.”

Me: “Great! San Nicolas, please. “ So he dropped me off, and then Italian guy at Itero.

The walk into Itero is beautiful. A river side stroll, with some beautiful trees. Then the big sky and rolling farmland into Boadilla. Very peaceful.

En El Camino is beautiful (albergue, hotel, gorgeous patio, restaurant). The guy who runs it is always singing, and quite the charmer. He remembered my name and exclaimed “Ev-ie!” whenever I came into the common area. Have you ever met someone where you can just tell this person loves their job? He’s that guy.

Not a lot of services in the way of mercados, farmacias, in this area, as well as Castrojeriz. Make sure you’re stocked up on snacks or whatever else you might need.

Eve, have you come across a mother and daughter from Colorado, I think they are about where you are now?

 

[Bala]

I’ve been thinking all week, what the heck? All I’ve seen since Burgos is big blue skies and green rolling hills. I love it.

My very favorite part of the entire Camino Frances. Emerald green fields, bright red poppies just coming into bloom, cloudless, endless blue sky above.... I kept thinking I'd give anything to have a walk like this at home. Some of my happiest memories are from along the meseta.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Eve, have you come across a mother and daughter from Colorado, I think they are about where you are now?

I’ve met several mother/son pairs but no mothers/daughters.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

To Poblacion

Forecast is rain and thunderstorms, after noon, so I headed out early (it didn’t rain).

Big sky, indeed. Montana’s got nothing in comparison. The green against all the different shades of blue and gray with the sun behind the blanket of clouds and just endless sky. I love the walk next to the canal.

Had the trail to myself so I went a little old school with the music. Why yes I do remember all the lyrics to most of the Purple Rain album, and anyone within a 1/4 mile of me knew it too.

Later I walked part way with a retired commercial pilot from Florida. We had some conversation about Elon Musk’s purchase of Twitter this week. And also shared a bit of our experiences healing from Covid.

Arrived early today and had a chance to get some laundry done and to rest. I’m tired. Not like the scary kind of tired I was a few weeks ago. But tired nonetheless. I’ve got a rest day coming up soon and I’m very ready for it.

The woman at Amanecer is like a wonderful grannie type. She arranged for me to have my room early. I asked about laundry and she waved to the washer in her kitchen while she was preparing dinner for the evening. She doesn’t speak much English and we managed with my crappy Spanish and gestures. I really felt her kindness and care in spite of the language barrier.

At dinner tonight a tableful of about a dozen pilgrims embarrassed the hell out of me, demanding vegetarian options without mentioning it ahead of time and immediately after the paella pan was brought dramatically out. I took a picture of the pan. It’s the most beautiful and generous one I’ve seen yet, full of shellfish. I hope the owners didn’t know enough English to hear them continue about how they “pay” and yet the Spanish turn the heat down, and criticizing elements of the dinner she prepared for hours (which I know because of seeing her work in the kitchen when I was using the washer). I had a small second serving mostly because I was annoyed by the criticisms at the other table. Yes, we do pay for our beds and meals, but significantly less than we would in most places, while also receiving a level of hospitality that is unmatched. Grrrr…

Normally I’m offered coffee at the end of a pilgrim dinner but this time it was some sort of liqueur. It tasted just slightly like green tea, maybe? It was delicious and I only had half of it, because I’d already had my fair share of red wine and may have detected just a slight buzz beginning. Anyone know what this might have been?

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Paella pan

 

[Carla M.]

To Poblacion

Forecast is rain and thunderstorms, after noon, so I headed out early (it didn’t rain).

Big sky, indeed. Montana’s got nothing in comparison. The green against all the different shades of blue and gray with the sun behind the blanket of clouds and just endless sky. I love the walk next to the canal.

Had the trail to myself so I went a little old school with the music. Why yes I do remember all the lyrics to most of the Purple Rain album, and anyone within a 1/4 mile of me knew it too.

Later I walked part way with a retired commercial pilot from Florida. We had some conversation about Elon Musk’s purchase of Twitter this week. And also shared a bit of our experiences healing from Covid.

Arrived early today and had a chance to get some laundry done and to rest. I’m tired. Not like the scary kind of tired I was a few weeks ago. But tired nonetheless. I’ve got a rest day coming up soon and I’m very ready for it.

The woman at Amanecer is like a wonderful grannie type. She arranged for me to have my room early. I asked about laundry and she waved to the washer in her kitchen while she was preparing dinner for the evening. She doesn’t speak much English and we managed with my crappy Spanish and gestures. I really felt her kindness and care in spite of the language barrier.

At dinner tonight a tableful of about a dozen pilgrims embarrassed the hell out of me, demanding vegetarian options without mentioning it ahead of time and immediately after the paella pan was brought dramatically out. I took a picture of the pan. It’s the most beautiful and generous one I’ve seen yet, full of shellfish. I hope the owners didn’t know enough English to hear them continue about how they “pay” and yet the Spanish turn the heat down, and criticizing elements of the dinner she prepared for hours (which I know because of seeing her work in the kitchen when I was using the washer). I had a small second serving mostly because I was annoyed by the criticisms at the other table. Yes, we do pay for our beds and meals, but significantly less than we would in most places, while also receiving a level of hospitality that is unmatched. Grrrr…

Normally I’m offered coffee at the end of a pilgrim dinner but this time it was some sort of liqueur. It tasted just slightly like green tea, maybe? It was delicious and I only had half of it, because I’d already had my fair share of red wine and may have detected just a slight buzz beginning. Anyone know what this might have been?

So glad to know that you have passed so many fears and are appreciating your Camino. I am also a Purple Rain fan. It's a generation thing

Totally understand your embarrassment and frustration regarding other pilgrims and their lack of consideration for the host. I confess that one of my goals with the Camino is to learn to be more tolerant and accepting regarding other people lack of kindness. Arrogance is something that really annoys me. I would probably have gone to those pilgrims table and shared a piece of my mind.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

So glad to know that you have passed so many fears and are appreciating your Camino. I am also a Purple Rain fan. It's a generation thing

Totally understand your embarrassment and frustration regarding other pilgrims and their lack of consideration for the host. I confess that one of my goals with the Camino is to learn to be more tolerant and accepting regarding other people lack of kindness. Arrogance is something that really annoys me. I would probably have gone to those pilgrims table and shared a piece of my mind.

I’m way too introverted for that lol. I just tried to double up my compliments and gratefulness to the owners. I’m trying to be honest in my journaling here, with both the negative as well as the positive, just because it’s reality and expecting all pilgrims to be generous and kind is…unrealistic.

Prince.

 

[Former member 49149]

Loving your reports. Not so much the people with blinkers on. Perhaps the licor was hierbas de orujo?
it varies from region to region, I think...
El orujo de hierbas o aguardiente de hierbas es una bebida de alta graduación (aunque menor que la del orujo blanco), típica de Cantabria, Galicia, Asturias y León que se obtiene a partir de aguardiente u orujoque se mezcla con hierbas aromáticas que le otorgan un tono verdoso característico.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Loving your reports. Not so much the people with blinkers on. Perhaps the licor was hierbas de orujo?
it varies from region to region, I think...
El orujo de hierbas o aguardiente de hierbas es una bebida de alta graduación (aunque menor que la del orujo blanco), típica de Cantabria, Galicia, Asturias y León que se obtiene a partir de aguardiente u orujoque se mezcla con hierbas aromáticas que le otorgan un tono verdoso característico.

I think that must have been it.

 

[VNwalking]

Grrrr

I. Can. Relate.
Yes. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr....
But you are not inconsiderate, which is all you can do anything about. As for the embarrassing and demanding vegetarians...they just created their own rotten karma.

(I'm a vegetarian for decades, and that kind of entitlement is embarrassing - it gives vegetarians a bad name. Sometimes you just have to be flexible and grateful - in that circumstance I'd have eaten around the shellfish and kept my lip zipped.)

 

[Eve Alexandra]

I. Can. Relate.
Yes. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr....
But you are not inconsiderate, which is all you can do anything about. As for the embarrassing and demanding vegetarians...they just created their own rotten karma.

(I'm a vegetarian for decades, and that kind of entitlement is embarrassing - it gives vegetarians a bad name. Sometimes you just have to be flexible and grateful - in that circumstance I'd have eaten around the shellfish and kept my lip zipped.)

Yeah it’s not the choice. I was vegetarian for several years at one point and totally get why people need accommodations. It was just seeing the look on her face after bringing out this amazing paella, and watching them shrug. I’m probably over sensitive to it. I’ve had that experience before. I’m pretty sure they’re ahead of me now and the likelihood of running into them is slim.

 

[BookGirl305]

Wow. How rude. Did they pay for the pilgrim dinner when they checked in? That would have been the time to say something. I am allergic to shellfish and wouldn't have been able to eat that, nor would I have thought to say no shellfish, and frankly, I wouldn't say no shellfish to a host after seeing this lovely pan as that dish is a tradition in that area and...just no. I would have taken a portion and played with it and eaten something from my pack later. Thanks for the lesson learned ahead, just in case.

I sense here on the board and from the stories from the trail a sense of entitlement sometimes, most often from the folks who frequently use the word "pilgrim" and stay in the bunk beds and walk multiple trips in Spain as a lifestyle and vacation choice. There sometimes seems to be an expectation of "the most" from those who spend the least, which one would think you'd find it the other way around.

 

[naplesdon]

I was overserved Orujo one night in Poblacion. All I can remember was waking in the morning searching for my first cafe con leche.

 

[J Willhaus]

Really pilgrims should mention food restrictions up front if they will participate in a communal meal. The hospitalera wants you to be happy so you will recommend the place to others not grumble and the speak poorly of the food. In my experience your hostess will try to accomodate it the limitations are communicated.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Yeah that’s my experience too. I’ve seen ppl with all sorts of allergies mention them up front and then they’re brought a plate separate from the others. It’s all good. That’s why this one caught me off guard.

 

[jpflavin1]

I was overserved Orujo one night in Poblacion. All I can remember was waking in the morning searching for my first cafe con leche.

Orujo, overserved?

 

[Eve Alexandra]

To Villalcazar de Sirga…

Eggs for breakfast available in Poblacion. Yessss!!!!

I’m not sure it’s even worth checking the weather apps here. All day yesterday, it was supposed to rain and it didn’t. Then it was not supposed to rain today, and it suddenly said “rain!” right before I was headed out the door. Changed to waterproof socks and crocs and made sure my rain jacket was accessible. And then it didn’t rain.

Not much to photograph of the walk. Mostly tiny farming towns and then some rolling hills next to busy road. Until you reach Villalcazar, which I think is quite pretty.

The church has a Templar history and an icon of the Virgin Mary associated with miracles that is unusual in its construction (stone not wood) so I decided to check it out. The church itself looks more like a castle/fortress (which may indicate a previous use according to my guidebook), and then La Virgen Blanca. She’s lovely. Church is incredibly simple except the altarpiece, which is impressive. I’m glad I’m staying here tonight. It would have been really easy to just bypass it for the next town and I would have missed the church.

I arrived early and found a corner in a bar to do some thinking. One of my goals has been embodied listening and trusting my ability to hear rather than “experts.” A voice I’ve been putting off listening to that needed attention. So I listened.

And beyond…

April 29 is my thirtieth day on trail. I’ve walked 250 trail miles. I’ve significantly improved my lung capacity. My hiking pants are so loose they look a bit ridiculous at this point. I’ve done a lot of trauma processing and release. I’ve regained my pre Covid walking stride and reconnected with this body that no longer felt familiar, post Covid. I’ve made some good progress in reducing the hypervigilance due to mothering during a worldwide pandemic. I’ve also discerned some new boundaries to enact. I could not ask for more goals met.

April 30 is the new moon, and a time for new beginnings. And that voice pointed out some new overuse injuries I’ve been ignoring, that will get worse if I don’t give them attention. The increase in Covid on the Camino isn’t worth exposing myself to albergue bunks, at this point, especially given the carelessness of many pilgrims because their risk profile is lower. And I’m tired. This post Covid body is stronger now, but also should not be pushed to her limit, which is what will happen if I continue. My dear grandma who passed recently at the age of 99 and who has been near to my heart this whole walk, would have told me to stop burning the candle at both ends.

So this new moon is the end of my Camino and a beginning. I’ll be taking some time to rest my body and soul, and to integrate the mental health gains I’ve made. I realize that alluding to mental health on pilgrimage is unusual on the forum. I shared more than some would about my struggles and realizations this last month, on purpose, to normalize the idea that pilgrimage can be more than just a good long walk. ‘Nuff said on that point.

I’m sitting on a bar patio, enjoying my orange juice, coffee and tortilla, facing a beautiful Spanish Plaza. The sun is shining.

This is the end of my narrative. Peace out, dear pilgrims.

-Because every ending should always include a fist pump

 

[Former member 49149]

To Villalcazar de Sirga…

Eggs for breakfast available in Poblacion. Yessss!!!!

I’m not sure it’s even worth checking the weather apps here. All day yesterday, it was supposed to rain and it didn’t. Then it was not supposed to rain today, and it suddenly said “rain!” right before I was headed out the door. Changed to waterproof socks and crocs and made sure my rain jacket was accessible. And then it didn’t rain.

Not much to photograph of the walk. Mostly tiny farming towns and then some rolling hills next to busy road. Until you reach Villalcazar, which I think is quite pretty.

The church has a Templar history and an icon of the Virgin Mary associated with miracles that is unusual in its construction (stone not wood) so I decided to check it out. The church itself looks more like a castle/fortress (which may indicate a previous use according to my guidebook), and then La Virgen Blanca. She’s lovely. Church is incredibly simple except the altarpiece, which is impressive. I’m glad I’m staying here tonight. It would have been really easy to just bypass it for the next town and I would have missed the church.

I arrived early and found a corner in a bar to do some thinking. One of my goals has been embodied listening and trusting my ability to hear rather than “experts.” A voice I’ve been putting off listening to that needed attention. So I listened.

And beyond…

April 29 is my thirtieth day on trail. I’ve walked 250 trail miles. I’ve significantly improved my lung capacity. My hiking pants are so loose they look a bit ridiculous at this point. I’ve done a lot of trauma processing and release. I’ve regained my pre Covid walking stride and reconnected with this body that no longer felt familiar, post Covid. I’ve made some good progress in reducing the hypervigilance due to mothering during a worldwide pandemic. I’ve also discerned some new boundaries to enact. I could not ask for more goals met.

April 30 is the new moon, and a time for new beginnings. And that voice pointed out some new overuse injuries I’ve been ignoring, that will get worse if I don’t give them attention. The increase in Covid on the Camino isn’t worth exposing myself to albergue bunks, at this point, especially given the carelessness of many pilgrims because their risk profile is lower. And I’m tired. This post Covid body is stronger now, but also should not be pushed to her limit, which is what will happen if I continue. My dear grandma who passed recently at the age of 99 and who has been near to my heart this whole walk, would have told me to stop burning the candle at both ends.

So this new moon is the end of my Camino and a beginning. I’ll be taking some time to rest my body and soul, and to integrate the mental health gains I’ve made. I realize that alluding to mental health on pilgrimage is unusual on the forum. I shared more than some would about my struggles and realizations this last month, on purpose, to normalize the idea that pilgrimage can be more than just a good long walk. ‘Nuff said on that point.

I’m sitting on a bar patio, enjoying my orange juice, coffee and tortilla, facing a beautiful Spanish Plaza. The sun is shining.

This is the end of my narrative. Peace out, dear pilgrims.

-Because every ending should always include a fist pump

Enjoy the peace your decision is giving you. Thank you for bringing us along on your camino. To be continued, hopefully.