LIVE from the Camino First meal in Spain

[mspath]

Arn,
Glad that you have successfully arrived in Fromista!
Soon you will be a Villalcazar de Sirga, here is another true experience from earlier, easier times.

 

[J Willhaus]

That's a good long day. How are the feet? Blister a memory by now I hope.

 

[Arn]

OK, so I'm a slow learner. Or, maybe I haven't made the effort in the past to step beyond ordering a bocadillo, or by pointing to pictures. That said, bars are likely to allow creativity in your order, where restaurants have a set menu and, except for deleting an item say pan or ensalada, your getting what's there.

 

[mspath]

OK, so I'm a slow learner. Or, maybe I haven't made the effort in the past to step beyond ordering a bocadillo, or by pointing to pictures. That said, bars are likely to allow creativity in your order, where restaurants have a set menu and, except for deleting an item say pan or ensalada, your getting what's there

Arn,
You are hardly a slow learner! That plate and beer look great. Just finished mon déjeuner here along the Marne River and I trust this is your mid day snack.
Bon appétit/Buen provecho!

​

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Arn,
Glad that you have successfully arrived in Fromista!
Soon you will be a Villalcazar de Sirga, here is another true experience from earlier, easier times.

I enjoyed reading your post from an earlier Camino. The details you share are like being a part of a good story.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

OK, so I'm a slow learner. Or, maybe I haven't made the effort in the past to step beyond ordering a bocadillo, or by pointing to pictures. That said, bars are likely to allow creativity in your order, where restaurants have a set menu and, except for deleting an item say pan or ensalada, your getting what's there.

Arn, I love your photos of meat and cheese, but I miss seeing the pan!

 

[Arn]

Arn, I love your photos of meat and cheese, but I miss seeing the pan!

Pan=food for thought not nourishment

 

[Arn]

Here's something for you semi-wonks out there. When I walk, I usually have something running in my head. I could be counting steps:
4 left steps = 1
160 = 1 km
1 km = 15 minutes
4 km per hour

Here's a brain worm for you. As I walk, if I am not counting steps, I play ENYA in my head. A favorite has the best cadence “Anywhere Is.”

As you watch my video of my approach to Carrion de Los Condes, turn up the sound and listen to my boots hit the ground. Enjoy!
View attachment IMG_5001.MOV

 

[Arn]

Taking a two day break staying with Rebekah and Paddy at the Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos. It's a restful location and perfect for my tired feet.
Saying that, Paddy and I walked up Hobbit Hill and their bodega where we rescued three bottles of vino.

 

[mspath]

Taking a two day break staying with Rebekah and Paddy at the Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos. It's a restful location and perfect for my tired feet.
Saying that, Paddy and I walked up Hobbit Hill and their bodega where we rescued three bottles of vino.

Arn,
Lucky you! Enjoy their special place and wonderful company.
Carpe diem!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Arn, I stopped in at Peaceable Kingdom hoping to meet Rebekah in the Spring of 2017. I'd read an outstanding post she had written on the forum and was looking forward to meeting her. Paddy greeted me at the front entry with their two dogs they had at the time, but unfortunately Rebekah was away in Madrid. Lucky you to find them home.
I loved the Hobbit hill as I entered the village.

 

[efdoucette]

Now consider this, when faced by adversity, I'm sent to St Michael, located on my Saint name street.
I don't believe in coincidence.
Buen Camino all!

My Italian Camino friend in 2011 (my first Camino) used to say "Coincidences are God's way of staying Anonymous" ... maybe
I hope you have a great journey

 

[JabbaPapa]

Saying that, Paddy and I walked up Hobbit Hill and their bodega where we rescued three bottles of vino.

It is in one of those bodegas that we slept on my 1993, my first time in Moratinos, and I think 12th-17th August 1993 or so and meteorite night. One of my friends had chosen army boots not big enough, and she was suffering from terrible blisters, so we could go no further.

We planned in response to sleep out.

But due to local meteorite excitement, we followed the locals up to the top of "hobbit hill", and it was BTW an exceptionally clear night and so one of my own personal top 5 best views of the Milky Way ever, so that all together, the spectacle of the Perseid meteorites against that spectacle, and in an unusually pleasant mid-August on the Meseta, and one of the pueblo locals offered us space on the floor of his bodega ; oh, full of hundreds of bottles of vino, and well -- drink as much as you like -- that Camino experience was rather memorable.

IIRC we chose the Rosado, not the Tinto ...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Great story, @JabbaPapa!

 

[Arn]

Leaving tomorrow, Mass was uplifting.

 

[Arn]

Leon, it was cold all day and the wind chill pushed into the mid-50s. Really down a bit the last two days and the dark interior of the Cathedral didn’t help. I love the stained glass.
Found a nice spot in the sun for a late lunch. Just when I was warming up they opened the umbrellas. Drat!!
And my beard is coming along nicely!

 

[mspath]

Leon, it was cold all day and the wind chill pushed into the mid-50s. Really down a bit the last two days and the dark interior of the Cathedral didn’t help. I love the stained glass.
Found a nice spot in the sun for a late lunch. Just when I was warming up they opened the umbrellas. Drat!!
And my beard is coming along nicely!

Arn,
Your beard does look promising especially contrasted to that blue sky!
Keep on keeping on and posting. Your Forum pals are eager to read your current news.

Here is an earlier post
re what you might see leaving Leon.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Leon, it was cold all day and the wind chill pushed into the mid-50s. Really down a bit the last two days and the dark interior of the Cathedral didn’t help. I love the stained glass.
Found a nice spot in the sun for a late lunch. Just when I was warming up they opened the umbrellas. Drat!!
And my beard is coming along nicely!

Sorry to hear you are a bit down, Arn. Keep walking and remind yourself how much you looked forward to GOing all year.
I too, love Leon's cathedral's and stained glass; beautiful picture btw. I have mentioned before that due to some serious structural damage a few centuries ago, all of the stained glass pieces were removed, marked piece by piece and stored in boxes for fifty years, then finally reassembled as we see them today...amazing!

 

[mspath]

Sorry to hear you are a bit down, Arn. Keep walking and remind yourself how much you looked forward to GOing all year.
I too, love Leon's cathedral's and stained glass; beautiful picture btw. I have mentioned before that due to some serious structural damage a few centuries ago, all of the stained glass pieces were removed, marked piece by piece and stored in boxes for fifty years, then finally reassembled as we see them today...amazing!

Camino Chrissy,
Storage of invaluable stained glass for protection during WW2 was quite common in France for example at Chartres cathedral. Read more here.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Camino Chrissy,
Storage of invaluable stained glass for protection during WW2 was quite common in France for example at Chartres cathedral. Read more here.

What a fascinating article and a beautiful cathedral! Thank you for providing the link. It's a similar story of preserving the stained glass until reassembled much later, and in the case of the Chartres cathedral, some of it was even shipped elsewhere for safe keeping.

 

[Arn]

As I entered Astorga, a railroad crossing is now traversed by a steel walkway. Must have been exciting in the past for pilgrims to cross safely. I could see the Cathedral in the distance. Getting closer, the Camino veered left and I started a very steep climb. Not all that happy, I reached the top and was faced with a church square. To my immediate right was a museum of sorts that served to display very unusual sacred art and history from the Confraternity.
I have also been saving a ton by shopping at supermercados instead of eating out. Two bottles of quality vino, jamon and queso for less than 12 €.

 

[J Willhaus]

There also used to be a cool covered display in that square with some Roman mosiac tilework?

 

[mspath]

As I entered Astorga, a railroad crossing is now traversed by a steel walkway. Must have been exciting in the past for pilgrims to cross safely. I could see the Cathedral in the distance. Getting closer, the Camino veered left and I started a very steep climb. Not all that happy, I reached the top and was faced with a church square. To my immediate right was a museum of sorts that served to display very unusual sacred art and history from the Confraternity.
I have also been saving a ton by shopping at supermercados instead of eating out. Two bottles of quality vino, jamon and queso for less than 12 €.

Arn,
Glad that you made it to Astorga. That railroad bridge is certainly unforgetable. Whenever I entered Astorga on the CF that muti ramped structure hardly seemed a fitting entrance for such an ancient historic city.

 

[Arn]

There also used to be a cool covered display in that square with some Roman mosiac tilework?

It is still there! And a few blocks over it looks like they are unearthing another structure. No signage to identify it but you can see different rooms, a bricked well, etc

 

[Arn]

A wonderful day. Long but interesting. Departed Astorga early, passed the Cathedral and the Bishop’s palace. Apparently he has never lived there. Outside town is a small chapel. Perfect to start the day. At about the 2 km mark to enter Rabanal you enter a very rocky incline. It’s tough but short. Press on and you will shortly arrive. The Posada el Tesin is fantastic. Staff wants to make your Camino memorable. Tonight, Gregorian Chant in the Church. Tomorrow starts the climb to la Cruz de Ferro where I’ll leave Our Stone.

 

[John Mc - Virginia]

Arn, Ann and I are enjoying your postings, and to "watch" your progress. We remember Astorga well! Have a great walk to the Cruz de Ferro. Quite cold and blustery on our camino - seemed suiting for the emotional visit there. You are on our daily rosary! Stay well - Buen Camino!

 

[Arn]

Thank you both. Temps dropping in late afternoon. Just did vespers in Latin with the Benedictines. Chant!

Arn, Ann and I are enjoying your postings, and to "watch" your progress. We remember Astorga well! Have a great walk to the Cruz de Ferro. Quite cold and blustery on our camino - seemed suiting for the emotional visit there. You are on our daily rosary! Stay well - Buen Cami

 

[mspath]

Arn,
Here is a bit of Rabanal memory
for you tonight.
Sleep well.

 

[jblaskovits]

A wonderful day. Long but interesting. Departed Astorga early, passed the Cathedral and the Bishop’s palace. Apparently he has never lived there. Outside town is a small chapel. Perfect to start the day. At about the 2 km mark to enter Rabanal you enter a very rocky incline. It’s tough but short. Press on and you will shortly arrive. The Posada el Tesin is fantastic. Staff wants to make your Camino memorable. Tonight, Gregorian Chant in the Church. Tomorrow starts the climb to la Cruz de Ferro where I’ll leave Our Stone.

I am so envious! I am very much enjoying your posts. I remember so well the day my husband and I reached the Cruz de Ferro where we left a stone from my mum's garden and said prayers in memory of our parents.

 

[Arn]

I am so envious! I am very much enjoying your posts. I remember so well the day my husband and I reached the Cruz de Ferro where we left a stone from my mum's garden and said prayers in memory of our parents.

God bless you both. I’ll say hi to your mum when I arrive.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I am so envious! I am very much enjoying your posts. I remember so well the day my husband and I reached the Cruz de Ferro where we left a stone from my mum's garden and said prayers in memory of our parents.

I left a stone for my two sons, praying and hoping their lives "go well".

 

[JabbaPapa]

passed the Cathedral and the Bishop’s palace. Apparently he has never lived there

The current Roman Pontiff, Bergoglio, was once titular Bishop of Villafranca Montes de Oca -- I seriously doubt that he has ever set foot into the village, let alone the church.

 

[JabbaPapa]

As I entered Astorga, a railroad crossing is now traversed by a steel walkway. Must have been exciting in the past for pilgrims to cross safely.

No ; if anything, that new arrangement has made things more annoying and boring for little real gain. Trains are very, VERY few and far between.

For past pilgrim excitement, one has to look back at the time when at a certain point some K after León, you had to cross over a motorway on foot. Fun and games. Can't remember how many dead pilgrims were sufficient to get the authorities to fix the problem.

 

[alexwalker]

Leon, it was cold all day and the wind chill pushed into the mid-50s. Really down a bit the last two days and the dark interior of the Cathedral didn’t help. I love the stained glass.
Found a nice spot in the sun for a late lunch. Just when I was warming up they opened the umbrellas. Drat!!
And my beard is coming along nicely!

Looks like a healthy lunch. And the meat and cheese slices were surely also welcome!

 

[Arn]

Cold wet windy foggy. That about describes to assent to the Crux de Ferro. As miserable as that was, about two hours later began the descent into El Acebo. The down hill is treacherous with rocks, slick mud and a continuous flow of water. If I didn’t know better I’d think I’d crossed over into Galicia.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hiking poles are definitely your best friends today! I love Acebo and always stay at the hotel with the Pilgrim section. They offer (or did in 2015-2017) a very good communal meal...it would warm you up after your day is over.

 

[Arn]

Hiking poles are definitely your best friends today! I love Acebo and always stay at the hotel with the Pilgrim section. They offer (or did in 2015-2017) a very good communal meal...it would warm you up after your day is over.

As a warm up, I was thinking a triple Johnnie Walker Black neat!

 

[J Willhaus]

At least it does not look like there were a lot of tour buses as is sometimes the case at Cruz de Ferro. I remember being bothered by a lot of flies on the stretch after so hopefully the cooler, wet weather also kept them at bay.

 

[Arn]

At least it does not look like there were a lot of tour buses as is sometimes the case at Cruz de Ferro. I remember being bothered by a lot of flies on the stretch after so hopefully the cooler, wet weather also kept them at bay.

Actually, there was one large tour bus and several mini-buses. I didn’t see anyone get out.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

As a warm up, I was thinking a triple Johnnie Walker Black neat!

I can see that I need to convert you over to a decent Scotch, try a decent single malt like Glenlivet Founders Reserve rather than that blended malt stuff that they wack a dark label on

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Actually, there was one large tour bus and several mini-buses. I didn’t see anyone get out.

Excellent, that is the sort of tour bus we need more of at this place.

 

[Arn]

This thread begins with my first meal. I’ve gotten through most menus minus the pan and fries. Lunch is always the easiest if I am at a bar, but restaurants continue to pose the most challenge and they are expensive
Enter the supermercado!
In one visit I can purchase jamon, queso, olives and chorizo. Add to that a good bottle of wine, or two and I’m set for several days. Whether in a shared kitchen, or my room, I can easily remain on task eating meat and skipping the carbs. Lastly, it’s cheap!
This grab: 22€

 

[Camino Chrissy]

In one visit I can purchase jamon, queso, olives and chorizo. Add to that a good bottle of wine, or two and I’m set

Arn, you are only now just figuring this out? Those self-bought items have been my lunch staples many a day on the Camino...often purchased even in small tiendas, although I substitute fresh squeezed OJ for the wine, add pan to make a bocadilla, and usually saved the hot meal of the day and wine for dinner.

 

[Arn]

Arn, you are only now figuring this out now? Those items have been my lunch staples many a day on the Camino...often purchased even in small tiendas, although I substitute fresh squeezed OJ for the wine, and usually saved the hot meal of the day and wine for dinner.

No, been doing this for a bit. Just closing a loop. Too much sugar in OJ.

 

[jpflavin1]

As a warm up, I was thinking a triple Johnnie Walker Black neat!

That would work but when in Spain "Orujo".

 

[jpflavin1]

This thread begins with my first meal. I’ve gotten through most menus minus the pan and fries. Lunch is always the easiest if I am at a bar, but restaurants continue to pose the most challenge and they are expensive
Enter the supermercado!
In one visit I can purchase jamon, queso, olives and chorizo. Add to that a good bottle of wine, or two and I’m set for several days. Whether in a shared kitchen, or my room, I can easily remain on task eating meat and skipping the carbs. Lastly, it’s cheap!
This grab: 22€

Looks like extra weight to carry ;-)

 

[J Willhaus]

We try to buy the grocery store olives in the packets to avoid having to carry a can or jar. LOVE Spanish olives!!! I expecially like variety of the ones you can get at the fruteria out of big buckets!

 

[Arn]

Looks like extra weight to carry ;-)

Gets lighter every day

 

[Camino Chrissy]

We try to buy the grocery store olives in the packets to avoid having to carry a can or jar. LOVE Spanish olives!!! I expecially like variety of the ones you can get at the fruteria out of big buckets!

I always buy the olives in the little bags too. They are the only "sin" I admit to.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

No, been doing this for a bit. Just closing a loop. Too much sugar in OJ.

A glass of OJ or a bottle of vino; hmmm, sounds like a trade-off...a matter of "pick your sugar poison" to me.

 

[Marbe2]

Arn, you are only now figuring this out now? Those items have been my lunch staples many a day on the Camino...often purchased even in small tiendas, although I substitute fresh squeezed OJ for the wine, and usually saved the hot meal of the day and wine for dinner.

We eat out one good meal a day…..usually a late lunch. Otherwise, it is breakfast and dinner in our room. We brought some oatmeal packets protein bars, and granola bars. We try and shop n a town, upon arrval, but, alas, not every town has a supermercado..

 

[Arn]

I can see that I need to convert you over to a decent Scotch, try a decent single malt like Glenlivet Founders Reserve rather than that blended malt stuff that they wack a dark label on

I have two goto single malts:
Dalwhinny and Isle de Jura 30 yo

Difficult to find either in a small town bar.

 

[Arn]

I know I’ve posted several Cathedrals and they do stir the senses. That said, I find I spend more quiet time in the small chapels. Here is one that is consecrated to St Sebastian. Look closely at the altar where the Saint graphically displays the arrow wounds.
Here’s my thought, the wounds of St Sebastian while grievous and alarming, pale against those we often carry inside and can damage us both physically and mentally. Saint Sebastian chose to offer himself for what he believed. Never give up! Choose life…always!

 

[jpflavin1]

I have two goto single malts:
Dalwhinny and Isle de Jura 30 yo

Difficult to find either in a small town bar.

I need to bring you two over to bourbon. My favorite is Elmer T. Lee.

 

[JabbaPapa]

That would work but when in Spain "Orujo".

Those of us who need to avoid carbs also need to avoid brandies, sadly.

Fruit liqueurs or eaux de vie can be OK.

 

[JabbaPapa]

Looks like extra weight to carry ;-)

It diminishes swiftly enough ...

 

[Arn]

Those of us who need to avoid carbs also need to avoid brandies, sadly.

Fruit liqueurs or eaux de vie can be OK.

Brandies yes, fine single malt no!

 

[JabbaPapa]

LOVE Spanish olives!!!

Best I've had so far are Mediterranean French.

Italian and Spanish are very good indeed, though.

Not tasted proper Greek so far, sadly ...

 

[JabbaPapa]

Brandies yes, fine single malt no!

Brewed or distilled cereals have close to 0% fibres and 0% lectins, and so on -- they're not carbs, as alcohol is not strictly speaking sugar.

 

[Arn]

When you get a nagging feeling you’re wrong, check and recheck. I thought I was booked, by Booking.com into a Hostal as far outside Pomferrada as possible to get a good start to Valcarce tomorrow. When I went to register, it was pointed out I was about six km from my intended Hostal and it was well off the Camino. Plan #2 Taxied to correct Hostal and will suck up the cost to resume in the morning. My dad often told me of Murphy’s Law…”If anything can go wrong it will!” I’d forgotten Murphy’s Law #2…”If everything is going right…you’ve missed something!”

 

[J Willhaus]

Were actually at the wrong place trying to register? That would be embarrassing.

 

[mspath]

Arn,
At least you were not leading a tour group! Hope you do have a decent Sunday lunch wherever you are.

 

[John Mc - Virginia]

Cold wet windy foggy. That about describes to assent to the Crux de Ferro. As miserable as that was, about two hours later began the descent into El Acebo. The down hill is treacherous with rocks, slick mud and a continuous flow of water. If I didn’t know better I’d think I’d crossed over into Galicia.

Arn - catching up on your postings. The weather during your visit at the Crux de Ferro somehow seems very appropriate. I loved the rock you left. If you can, what do all the slash marks signify? Keep up the good news and progress! Buen Camino!

 

[Arn]

Arn - catching up on your postings. The weather during your visit at the Crux de Ferro somehow seems very appropriate. I loved the rock you left. If you can, what do all the slash marks signify? Keep up the good news and progress! Buen Camino!

John, each “/“ represents an intention, prayer, hurt, etc that folks have sent me to include on Our Stone. Go back and review some of their requests.

 

[Arn]

John, each “/“ represents an intention, prayer, hurt, etc that folks have sent me to include on Our Stone. Go back and review some of their requests.

Oh, they are on my FB feed not here.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Arn -- Catching up on your postings, and enjoying.... Shocked to realize that I'm not that far off your pace! Las Herrerias tonight, O Cebreiro for me tomorrow, and beyond.... Hope/pray we'll cross paths.

 

[alexwalker]

When you get a nagging feeling you’re wrong, check and recheck. I thought I was booked, by Booking.com into a Hostal as far outside Pomferrada as possible to get a good start to Valcarce tomorrow. When I went to register, it was pointed out I was about six km from my intended Hostal and it was well off the Camino. Plan #2 Taxied to correct Hostal and will suck up the cost to resume in the morning. My dad often told me of Murphy’s Law…”If anything can go wrong it will!” I’d forgotten Murphy’s Law #2…”If everything is going right…you’ve missed something!”

Murphy's 3rd law: If something that can go wrong does not go wrong, it will in the long run prove that it would have been best if it went wrong...

 

[Arn]

Arn -- Catching up on your postings, and enjoying.... Shocked to realize that I'm not that far off your pace! Las Herrerias tonight, O Cebreiro for me tomorrow, and beyond.... Hope/pray we'll cross paths.

Several down days. We will likely cross paths between Sarria and…
Hope that will happen.

 

[Arn]

As expected the Way up to O Cebreiro begins in a dusky dawn, progresses into bright sunshine and ends in a fog shrouded welcome. Many pilgrims working their Way up to join with car loads of tourists. All in all, will be happy to leave and head toward Sarria.
Buen Camino!

 

[mspath]

Arn,
Thanks for your update. Hopefully the fog will clear and the journey ahead will be easier.
Carpe diem.

 

[VNwalking]

Las Herrerias tonight, O Cebreiro for me tomorrow, and beyond

As expected the Way up to O Cebreiro begins in a dusky dawn, progresses into bright sunshine and ends in a fog shrouded welcome.

So...you are both there today?
Buen caminos peregrinos!

 

[Arn]

So...you are both there today?
Buen caminos peregrinos!

Missed him

 

[Arn]

Often, once a pilgrim first enters Santiago there maybe a sense of relief, or even disappointment, that the Way has ended. Some may go on to Finisterre, or Muxia, but the realization you’ve arrived can almost be anticlimactic.
Not so for me. Sarria is where my journey begins to unravel. I know each place I will stop. My favorite Church, bar and cafe. There’s little left to the imagination. Each step is…well, another step.
I’ll set off tomorrow expecting the normal, yet…hoping for the Camino to work it’s magic and dish up a surprise, or two.
Stranger things have happened.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

So...you are both there today?
Buen caminos peregrinos!

I pushed on from O Cebreiro yesterday (Monday) around 12 or 1 pm, after a badly seasoned bowl of Caldo Gallego at the Venta Celta. Arn and I didn't cross paths, which is a pity. Probably our our only chance.

 

[Arn]

I pushed on from O Cebreiro yesterday (Monday) around 12 or 1 pm, after a badly seasoned bowl of Caldo Gallego at the Venta Celta. Arn and I didn't cross paths, which is a pity. Probably our our only chance.

The Camino is still the thing that binds.
May happen yet.

 

[J Willhaus]

@Arn I hope there is something magical that happens for you.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

I pushed on from O Cebreiro yesterday (Monday) around 12 or 1 pm, after a badly seasoned bowl of Caldo Gallego at the Venta Celta. Arn and I didn't cross paths, which is a pity. Probably our our only chance.

I did, however, share that mediocre lunch at O Cebreiro with another Forum member, whose "handle" I simply can't recall. Decent chap from North Carolina, USA.... Somehow we Forum members do manage to run into each other!

 

[Arn]

Just when I think I’ve got this Camino thing worked out, I wake up in Sarria, as I’ve done several times and find I’m so excited to get going, I start out at 07:00. Well before first light. I know the Way out of town, so as I turn up familiar streets toward the Monastery Magdalene, I find I’ve picked up a following of the unsure. Off we go, down the steep hill, across the small bridge, over the RR tracks and up the hill. Still predawn as we top the hill, we are moving smartly. In the group is a couple from the US I first met at dinner in Orisson. We’ve crossed paths several times. I’m disappointed the Monastery Church at Barbadelo isn’t open. It’s a favorite stop to reflect. There’s a lot of path maintenance going on along this stretch. Path is now graded, expanded and way more pleasant than in the past. Portomarin looms in the distance.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I’m disappointed the Monastery Church at Barbadelo isn’t open. It’s a favorite stop to reflect.

Arn, I always stop at every church/cathedral I pass. I walk up to the door and pull on the handle. The many times I find them locked it is always a disappointment and I trudge on.

 

[mspath]

Arn,
Take care as you cross that (in)-famous bridge into Portomarin. Perhaps you will see some ruins in the water if all is clear.

Unfortunately to enter Portomarin the bridge over the water must be crossed. In the past I have always walked facing traffic on the left side but on the traffic lane and not the walkers sidewalk. This "feels" a little easier.

The stone arch with high steps at the entrance to the village need not be climbed. Walk up the avenue de Sarria which is on the right as you face those steps and you will arrive at the remade Potemkin-like village.

 

[VNwalking]

remade Potemkin-like village

I never thought of this description. But it's perfect.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Potemkin-like village.

I had to google this interesting word as I'd not heard of it. Although originally having a more political meaning, it also reminds me of Hollywood's attempt at reconstructing 19th century cowboy towns, and facades in architecture to give a false illusion of grandeur. The main street of Portomarin has certainly been given a perfect look of newness.

 

[Arn]

Arn,
Take care as you cross that (in)-famous bridge into Portomarin. Perhaps you will see some ruins in the water if all is clear.

Unfortunately to enter Portomarin the bridge over the water must be crossed. In the past I have always walked facing traffic on the left side but on the traffic lane and not the walkers sidewalk. This "feels" a little easier.

The stone arch with high steps at the entrance to the village need not be climbed. Walk up the avenue de Sarria which is on the right as you face those steps and you will arrive at the remade Potemkin-like village.

Pictures save words

 

[FRM]

I did, however, share that mediocre lunch at O Cebreiro with another Forum member, whose "handle" I simply can't recall. Decent chap from North Carolina, USA.... Somehow we Forum members do manage to run into each other!

It was I @FRM . I also had the pleasure of walking an hour or so with @BombayBill up the hill to Foncebadon. I enjoyed every minute with both of you. Best.

 

[Arn]

Uneventful walk to Palas de Rei. Only highlight being Gonzar with their great breakfasts. Cheap and plentiful. The place was packed. I just had black tea. Mostly highway walking, or at least along side.
Long walk tomorrow. Looks like about 29 to Arzua.

 

[mspath]

Arn,
The walk is long but not difficult.
You will pass through Ribadixo da Baxio which is just 2.8 km east of Arzua. It is a very picturesque albergue site on the river Iso.

A detour might be to Sobrado dos Monxes monastery. March 2007 I walked there from Arzua. Stayed at the pilgrim albergue within the Cistercian monastery; silence reigned. The complex is a Baroque masterpiece. The albergue has been upgraded and a comfortable hospederia is on site. Attended Vespers with one other 'outsider'.
...Carpe diem

 

[JabbaPapa]

Getting to my 7-10 day point where I need some carbs again.

Annoying.

 

[Arn]

Getting to my 7-10 day point where I need some carbs again.

Annoying.

Unless you are skin and bones the need for carbs may just be a desire for a strawberry rhubarb pie!

 

[Arn]

The numbers of pilgrims since Sarria continue to grow as does the number of packs being transported and taxis taken.
My initial take is these pilgrims started their Camino high on the hoped experience but sorely ill prepared for the journey. I’ve engaged some individually and as a group and most had no experience with the resources of the Forum, CSJ, etc.
It appears the bulk of the injuries are among the younger pilgrims and the more seasoned are adjusting quiet well.
Two days out and rain is forecast. Must be in Galicia!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Unless you are skin and bones the need for carbs may just be a desire for a strawberry rhubarb pie!

Any fruit pie will do just fine for me.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

It appears the bulk of the injuries are among the younger pilgrims and the more seasoned are adjusting quiet well.

I have often noticed on the forum that pilgrims with the most blisters seem to be the younger ones (they assume they are invincible)...I was one of them once myself...a long time ago in my youth.

 

[Arn]

I have often noticed on the forum that pilgrims with the most blisters seem to be the younger ones (they assume they are invincible)...I was one of them once myself...a long time ago in my youth.

My blister healed a long way back. Never another problem. I have had a problem with bike riders: silently speed by, jump the path even into walking pilgrims and basically hog the path if they are many.
Today was different. As I departed Arzua just prior to dawn, it was sprinkling. Up ahead I could hear excited voices and see many flashing bike lights. Fine, I thought to myself, even in crappy weather they’re out in force.
As I weaved through them, they were blocking the walkway, I noticed all the bikes were trikes. The peddler had the back seat and the excited rider the front.
The riders were all disabled with one malady or another. Even in the rain they were so into the excitement of it all.
I am so humbled.
View attachment IMG_5127.MOV

 

[David with new Kit!]

Just hit Galicia today (O'Cebreiro) and four days of rain forecast, not just the food and scenary changing.

Also, as mentioned by @Arn above, we have also seen some people I'll prepared for the heat and the cold.

Saw one guy with a homemade straw hat on the Meseta (very inventive) but he soon bought a better hat at the next town - Learning on the job .

Cyclist's, don't they ever invest in bells!! (BTW, I have nothing against cyclists (

 

[Arn]

Just hit Galicia today (O'Cebreiro) and four days of rain forecast, not just the food and scenary changing.

Also, as mentioned by @Arn above, we have also seen some people I'll prepared for the heat and the cold.

Saw one guy with a homemade straw hat on the Meseta (very inventive) but he soon bought a better hat at the next town - Learning on the job .

Cyclist's, don't they ever invest in bells!! (BTW, I have nothing against cyclists (

Till you’ve been hit by one!

 

[J Willhaus]

My blister healed a long way back. Never another problem. I have had a problem with bike riders: silently speed by, jump the path even into walking pilgrims and basically hog the path if they are many.
Today was different. As I departed Arzua just prior to dawn, it was sprinkling. Up ahead I could hear excited voices and see many flashing bike lights. Fine, I thought to myself, even in crappy weather they’re out in force.
As I weaved through them, they were blocking the walkway, I noticed all the bikes were trikes. The peddler had the back seat and the excited rider the front.
The riders were all disabled with one malady or another. Even in the rain they were so into the excitement of it all.
I am so humbled.
View attachment 110260

Wonderful to see so many young people out getting exercise with the help of their friends.

 

[Arn]

OK, I gave in just prior to Lavacola. I was walking with a fantastic French lady who mentioned she needed to stop for a protein hit. The first two “restaurants” didn’t have what we both needed “eggs and bacon.” Finally, at Casa Porta in San Paio, we hit the mother load. Power to the next 12 km and SDC.

 

[J Willhaus]

OK, I gave in just prior to Lavacola. I was walking with a fantastic French lady who mentioned she needed to stop for a protein hit. The first two “restaurants” didn’t have what we both needed “eggs and bacon.” Finally, at Casa Porta in San Paio, we hit the mother load. Power to the next 12 km and SDC.

Yum!

 

[mspath]

Arn,
As always Courage and Ultreia !

 

[JennyH94]

OK, I gave in just prior to Lavacola. I was walking with a fantastic French lady who mentioned she needed to stop for a protein hit. The first two “restaurants” didn’t have what we both needed “eggs and bacon.” Finally, at Casa Porta in San Paio, we hit the mother load. Power to the next 12 km and SDC.

Wow, Arn! That fabulous feast on a single plate will get you out to Finisterre!

Cheers From Oz -
Jenny

 

[LesR]

Early on I mentioned I've changed my eating habits and the results are better than hoped. Then you asked, what will you eat since most cereals, sugars, carbs are out.
Well, the picture says it all. Although I ordered only meat, wine and water, the cook tempted me with fine looking fries. They remained on my plate.
The steak was great and just shy of a pound.
I'm in Pamplona after an eight hour flight from DFW, COVID scan of that SpHC thingie, short train ride to Atocha and transfer to 3-hour ride to Pamplona. All low cost beds are sold out. Consider reservations. Off to SJPDP tomorrow.
Burn Camino
Arn

Better get used to seeing fries on your plate... They are everywhere...

That said, the chef at Salceda Albergue Turistico does a mean potato mash - worth staying there just for that!