Elizabeth Cheung
Existential Sherpa
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Let's just say I've been around ;-)
Remove ads on the forum by becoming a donating member. More here. |
---|
Yes, I think WisePilgrim has all or most these alternatives.
I WISH I had taken a picture of it. It is not so narrow, just extremely uneven. Like someone threw a bunch of stones together and then melded it all together. I think Amancio has been there, so I will contact him. I am bad with distance estimates, so I can’t give you a good sense of how high it was.
If you zoom in on the wikiloc tracks, you can clearly see it. It is the only spot on the tracks where you can see water on both sides. https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/senda-costera-la-franca-pendueles-por-la-costa-10189855
It looks like you would have to miss all of the coastal part from La Franca to Buelna if you didn’t want to cross it. But maybe Wise Pilgrim or Amancio can help here. I have PM-ed them. Buen camino, Laurie
P.s, if you look at my pictures in post number 7, this is exactly the kind of rock that it is. I would say the bridge itself is at least 3’ wide, but very uneven and jagged.
EUREKA, if you put puente natural buelna into google images, you will see it. None that I see are taken FROM the bridge, just of it. But you can see people walking on top. The best one I saw was picture number six on this website. https://mapio.net/pic/p-1043883/
If you don't mind my asking, how old are you? I turned 70 in February and am in good shape for my age. Do you have a list of hostels, alburgues that you stayed in along the way. I will be starting in San Sebastian.6. La Franca to Llanes
Just want to say that these pics are all from the coast before the camino comes to the coast in Pendueles.
GPS tracks from La Franca to Pendueles. At Pendueles, the coastal route merges right into the Camino.
https://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=10189855
Hi Andrea Lynn,welcome to the forum. I am almost 69. I am a good walker and try to walk a camino every year. I posted a list with my stages here:If you don't mind my asking, how old are you? I turned 70 in February and am in good shape for my age. Do you have a list of hostels, alburgues that you stayed in along the way. I will be starting in San Sebastian.
Thank you so much. I start walking on the 26th May from Irun and you have condensed all my notes for keeping to the coast. Very handy. Much appreciated. RobinTo explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Laurie, my plan is to walk this wonderful looking Nueva - Ribadesella alternative somewhere in the coming weeks. I need to train a bit for a Camino of a week on the Francés the end of May and I am in the luxury position that I can do my training along the Asturian coast8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
GPS tracks showing the coastal alternative after La Nueva. https://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=9999603
GPS tracks for coastal alternative from La Nueva to the intersection with the coastal alternative above (I did not walk this part). With a night in the little hotel in La Nueva, the next day to Ribadesella could be all along the coast. BUT be sure to see that this track does not continue along the coast after Cuerres. Use the first tracks posted here for the "second half" of that coastal route, that is from Cuerres onward. Sorry if this is confusing, but someone with better tech skills should be able to combine the first half of the coastal route from Nueva to Cuerres (below) with the second half of the coastal route from Cuerres to Ribadesella (above).
https://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8763164
Hi, Luka,Hi Laurie, my plan is to walk this wonderful looking Nueva - Ribadesella alternative somewhere in the coming weeks. I need to train a bit for a Camino of a week on the Francés the end of May and I am in the luxury position that I can do my training along the Asturian coastDo you have any idea how long the combination of the two wikiloc tracks would be? My plan is to record my walk on wikiloc as well, so after that I will share the track here.
I am bit by bit discovering the Asturians coastal routes (as they are now more or less located in my backyard). It is such a pity that the Norte misses quite a few of them...
My thought exactly. And I'm not even walking the Norte. Gracias, Laurie!WOW what a thread, @peregrina2000 and everyone else that added to it!
One thing to add for any potential rockhounds out there: This is a blessed patch of geology which has the one of the longest exposed sequences of sedimentary layers in the whole world. Not to mention caves and neolithic paintings. There is much to pause at and marvel over.There were kids on the Ruta del Flysch, and no scary narrow paths that I can remember. The path is on the strenuous side, but it is oh so worth it. You can see the profile here:https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ruta-flysch-deba-zumaia-zarautz-2810918
And if you put “ruta del flysch” into google images, you will see lots of photos. Many focus on the crazy rock formations but there are some pictures of the actual trail. IMO, it is a trail that is accessible for people in good, but not necessarily great, shape. Three people from the albergue the night before came with me and they all survived (and were gobsmacked by the beauty) and were not very experienced.
"The coastal area contains a complete record of the important boundaries between geological ages such as the Cretaceous/Tertiary (K-T boundary) and the Palaeocene/Eocene, and likewise includes the official stratotypes (international references) for two internal boundaries within the Palaeocene (Danian-Selandian and Selandian-Thanetian)."
"The entire area contains excellent examples of tectonic deformation structures such as different types and scales of folds and faults, which were created during the opening of the Bay of Biscay and the compression and lifting of the Pyrenees.
Almost the entire stratigraphic record corresponds to marine environments. There is a great deal of palaeontological evidence: bioconstructions of rudist bivalves, Ammonoidea, trace fossils, calcareous plankton, etc."
"The municipalities of Deba and Mutriku have one of the greatest concentrations of caves with archaeological sites in the whole of Gipuzkoa. The cave paintings in Ekain cave (Deba), in particular the figures of horses, are one of the best examples of Franco-Cantabrian art. As a result, the Ekain cave was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2008. "
I am! And thanks for the link, that one looks perfect. And yes, I will report afterwards!Hi, Luka,
You are one lucky holandesa! I found a GPS track from La Nueva all along the coast, looks like about 20 km. https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/vie...-por-la-costa-junio-28-2014&id=21555506&rd=en
Would love to hear how it goes, and see some pictures, of course. The section that I walked, more or less after Cuerres, I think, had some gorgeous rocks very similar to As Catedrales, but you can’t walk on the beach around them. Buen camino, Laurie
My thought exactly. And I'm not even walking the Norte. Gracias, Laurie!
One thing to add for any potential rockhounds out there: This is a blessed patch of geology which has the one of the longest exposed sequences of sedimentary layers in the whole world. Not to mention caves and neolithic paintings. There is much to pause at and marvel over.
From this:
That reminds me of a conversation I had years ago in Villaviciosa in a hotel terrace. I met a geology professor who had just taken a group of students on a field trip/short course from the US to some European country. He and his wife were traveling through Northern Spain for a few weeks. I asked him why he didn’t just bring the students to Spain, and he said — oh, the geology here is way too complicated for beginning students.
Since we're talking about alternate routes: Has anyone done or has any info on Subida al Monte Candina. It looks like a doable trail after crossing the river leaving Islares and heading to Laredo. It looks like it heads up to the coast but avoids the dangerous section. Also avoids a lot of asphalt. My husband and I will be on the CdN in June and we hate road walking and this looks like a viable alternative. Any info or advice on this would be greatly appreciated ;-)To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Hello @Kuuipo ,Since we're talking about alternate routes: Has anyone done or has any info on Subida al Monte Candina. It looks like a doable trail after crossing the river leaving Islares and heading to Laredo. It looks like it heads up to the coast but avoids the dangerous section. Also avoids a lot of asphalt. My husband and I will be on the CdN in June and we hate road walking and this looks like a viable alternative. Any info or advice on this would be greatly appreciated ;-)
Hello @Kuuipo ,
We walked around Monte Candina. I wrote a post:
It's post #31 in the thread.
Hope this helps.
Buen Camino
Thank you @Luka ! Brings back memories!I did a beautiful little circular today that might add an extra option for lovers of the Asturian coast. There is a wonderful coastal path between La Isla and La Griega (the beach of Colunga). I often see pilgrims taking a short cut on the road from La Isla to Colunga. Perfectly possible, because there is a side walk next to it. But extremely boring.
There are two better options instead:
- One is a little detour on little roads through meadows, which will take you to San Juan de Duz. From there Colunga is maybe half a kilometer away. It might even be the official Camino, but I hardly saw arrows today.
- One is a little bigger detour. Then you'll take the coastal path from the beach of La Isla to the beach of La Griega. From there you can take a path that goes to Colunga.
I combined the two and walked a circular which I uploaded on wikiloc (with more pictures) and had a lovely afternoon! Note, by the way, that I walked the coastal path in opposite direction.
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-isla-la-griega-circular-35564275
View attachment 55711
Hi Laurie, tried that one today and I have to adjust it. The part after playa de Villanueva was totally unrecommendable. The path was completely overgrown, mostly with gorse. Later on also brambles. I had a hard time finding my path and unluckily I was wearing shorts. Got scratches all over my legs and arms. The gorse at some stretches grew as high as my shoulders.Hi, Luka,
You are one lucky holandesa! I found a GPS track from La Nueva all along the coast, looks like about 20 km. https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/vie...-por-la-costa-junio-28-2014&id=21555506&rd=en
Would love to hear how it goes, and see some pictures, of course. The section that I walked, more or less after Cuerres, I think, had some gorgeous rocks very similar to As Catedrales, but you can’t walk on the beach around them. Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Laurie, tried that one today and I have to adjust it. The part after playa de Villanueva was totally unrecommendable. The path was completely overgrown, mostly with gorse. Later on also brambles. I had a hard time finding my path and unluckily I was wearing shorts. Got scratches all over my legs and arms. The gorse at some stretches grew as high as my shoulders.
View attachment 56798
I had to crawl underneath barbed wire, press myself through bushes and got more or less lost. The path finally ended up in a meadow (I was still on the Wikiloc track) full of cows and calfs. I didn't bother looking if there was a bull around and started walking in the opposite direction. After quite a lot of roaming through fields and crossing a couple more fences I ended up on a road in the outskirts of Villanueva.
At that point I was just happy to be back in civilisation, my legs hurt and I was running out of water. I decided to walk to the little trainstation of Belmonte del Pría and call it a day. Now back on my own terrace with a beer and my legs covered in betadine.
I will probably give it another try on Friday, but then I'll stay on the E9. That will more or less be a combination of the other two Wikiloc tracks you added here. Maybe a bit less adventurous, but hopefully more pleasant ;-)
I think I have sorted it out. This time I stayed on the E9 where I last time ended up in gorge bushes higher than my shoulders. About 2k later on there is another coastal option. Little dirt tracks but not overgrown that will take you to the Bufones del Pría and Playa de Guadamía. Absolutely recommendable!8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
GPS tracks showing the coastal alternative after La Nueva. https://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=9999603
GPS tracks for coastal alternative from La Nueva to the intersection with the coastal alternative above (I did not walk this part). With a night in the little hotel in La Nueva, the next day to Ribadesella could be all along the coast. BUT be sure to see that this track does not continue along the coast after Cuerres. Use the first tracks posted here for the "second half" of that coastal route, that is from Cuerres onward. Sorry if this is confusing, but someone with better tech skills should be able to combine the first half of the coastal route from Nueva to Cuerres (below) with the second half of the coastal route from Cuerres to Ribadesella (above).
https://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8763164
You definitely wont be alone. I just finished and there was already a fair number hiking. July August will be much busier. Enjoy. Its incredible.I am very much appreciative of the posts on this thread. Thank you all. I am concerned about hiking alone and am hopeful there are others hiking during July and August. Do you know?
You definitely wont be alone. I just finished and there was already a fair number hiking. July August will be much busier. Enjoy. Its incredible.
I would love to have your opinion of highlights of the Norte as I am not sure my daughter and I can take enough days to be able to do the whole thing but could go for three weeks or so next May or June. I have been told that the last inland part is not as amazing as the part along the coast. If you have any advice on this I would love to hear it. We walked the Portuguese route this year and the Frances last year. It definitely gets into your psyche and you miss it when you aren't there walking. Thanks for any advice.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Hello Holly,I would love to have your opinion of highlights of the Norte as I am not sure my daughter and I can take enough days to be able to do the whole thing but could go for three weeks or so next May or June. I have been told that the last inland part is not as amazing as the part along the coast. If you have any advice on this I would love to hear it. We walked the Portuguese route this year and the Frances last year. It definitely gets into your psyche and you miss it when you aren't there walking. Thanks for any advice.
Holly
I walked and uploaded this one today, from Poo de Llanes to Villahormes. Easy to expand on both sides.7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
There seem to be lots of paths between Llanes and Celorio that get you closer to the coast. Follow the E9, but my wikiloc searching brings up lots of different alternatives. Thanks to Tia Valeria for this description.
https://www.turismoasturias.es/en/descubre/naturaleza/rutas/sendas-costeras/llanes-celorio
Barayo - Navia (Travesia Costa Naviega)
https://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=1795893
http://www.jfcamina.es/caminoscosteros/AS-Z16-01-Navia/AS-Z16-01-Navia.htm
Luarca-Navia (GR E9 Coastal alternative)
https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trai...te-por-la-senda-costa-naviega-gr-e-9-26490483
Luarca - Ribadeo (GR E9 Coastal alternative)
Luarca - Ribadeo (Camino de Santiago del Norte) Por la senda costera G.R. E9
Luarca - Ribadeo (Camino de Santiago del Norte) Por la senda costera G.R. E9 Hiking trail in Luarca, Asturias (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Se recorren las 4 sendas costeras del G.R. E9 del occidente asturiano, las cuales están homologadas y perfectamente...www.wikiloc.com
View attachment 52984
View attachment 52983
[/QUO
The scenery looks wonderful. Just one comment though. As someone who did the C. Frances in June 2018–I NEVER EVER saw even a fraction of the #of people in most of these photos! I take it these are tour groups travelling together in packs, as they don’t seem to be carrying anything? It’s a total turn-off. Please tell me this is not what I will see if I do C. del Norte next June!?
Don't worry about that, It is not so crowded, those photos are from a special day of hiking, that day more than 1500 hikers from all over Spain came to walk the route (Senda Costa Naviega) from Barayo to Navia.The scenery looks wonderful. Just one comment though. As someone who did the C. Frances in June 2018–I NEVER EVER saw even a fraction of the #of people in most of these photos! I take it these are tour groups travelling together in packs, as they don’t seem to be carrying anything? It’s a total turn-off. Please tell me this is not what I will see if I do C. del Norte next June!?
Whew!Don't worry about that, It is not so crowded, those photos are from a special day of hiking, that day more than 1500 hikers from all over Spain came to walk the route (Senda Costa Naviega) from Barayo to Navia.
@Walking Nature World has made some beautiful videos on that route (Senda Costa Naviega)
-
Thank you so much to everyone adding their wisdom to this thread. I'll be starting in Irun on April 12th and even though I'm notoriously good at getting lost, I will definitely try to find as many alternative routes as possible. I suppose you can't get lost too much as long as the beach is on your right?
Look at post number 80 in this thread. This is @Kosmos’ territory!Apologies if I have missed this but is there any advice on the coastal variant from El Bao (before Villapedre) to Navia? Looks like it would add around 6kms to the route from Luarca to La Caridad?
Brilliant! thank you. I need to dig into this fantastic resource a bit moreLook at post number 80 in this thread. This is @Kosmos’ territory!
Thank you so much for posting that!! I have printed it off. My daughter and I are starting in Irún on May 9.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Hey LaurieTo explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Here's what I do in your shoes, Paul:I may look for a route post Zumaia to Pamplona.
This is fantastic! Thank you so much. This is exactly what I have been hoping to find.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Hi Laurie, you are correct. I have added a few extra coastal kms to alternative 6. Worth it IMHO. Especially the area around the ruins of Iglesia Santa María de Tina is quite special and the walk from Pimiango to La Franca beach is pleasant. I also think it is worth it because the official stage from Unquera to Pendueles is hardly interesting (if I recall well). Good to realise that you are adding a couple of ascents and descents though.Hi, Luka,
If my map reading is right, what your suggestion does is add more coastal kms to my alternative 6, which goes from La Franca to Llanes (with the Pedueles to Llanes section being the “normal” Norte route). Starting at Unquera adds a few more coastal kms before Llanes, right?
BTW, did you walk over that rock bridge that is discussed earlier in the thread (pictures on post no. 99), the Salto del Caballo that Amancio described? I remembered being a bit freaked out, not because it was narrow, but because the rocks were so uneven.
Pretty soon you will have walked every possible step on the Asturian coast! Buen camino, Laurie
To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Although it is not a "Coastal" option it is worth mentioning the alternative route into Gijón from Deva. It is known locally as the Senda de Peña Francia and is akin to the river walk into Burgos; meaning less asphalt. It is well marked and delivers you to the eastern edge of the Playa San Lorenzo. From there it is easy to follow the coast until it rejoins the official camino near the harbor.
From the campsite at Deva turn left downhill past the campsite parking lot. Follow the road to the bottom of the hill and the trail is directly in front of you. Turn right to follow it into town.
Wikiloc link here, but I have not checked it for
Thanks for that update. Good to have more opinions.Just my 2c on the river option from Deba into Gijon. There were some pretty sections in the beginning, and towards the end it was clearly nicer than what was around, but there was a middle section which took you away from the stream on winding, dangerous, unpleasant roads through a gated community and some other unpleasantness, and to add insult to injury a hill, which after the two substantial hills behind me on this 30k day was a kick to the teeth.
I walked this stretch with my wife in 3018, it was very beautifull. You can break up this stage in two by staying in Soto de la Marina after 20 km. A room in a hotel was then 40 €. An advantage was that we could do it slow and take time to enjoy the nice viewsHi All,
My wife and I are on the Camino del Norte right now in Islares. I am reading ahead and noted the 31.7km coastal route option between Santander and Boo (#5 in Peregrina2000's originating post). We are slow walkers, and find that if there's a mountainous stretch we make very slow progress. Net, do you recall if this stretch has any significant steep inclines/declines? We reach Santander in 3 days time. Thanks in advance for your response.
I walked this a couple of weeks ago. From memory I don't think there any very steep or arduous sections. My GPS tracker recorded just over 350m of ascent for the whole day so one of the easier days.Hi All,
My wife and I are on the Camino del Norte right now in Islares. I am reading ahead and noted the 31.7km coastal route option between Santander and Boo (#5 in Peregrina2000's originating post). We are slow walkers, and find that if there's a mountainous stretch we make very slow progress. Net, do you recall if this stretch has any significant steep inclines/declines? We reach Santander in 3 days time. Thanks in advance for your response.
@Vaughan Thanks for the specific data point from your GPS tracker. That's helpful information.I walked this stretch with my wife in 3018, it was very beautifull. You can break up this stage in two by staying in Soto de la Marina after 20 km. A room in a hotel was then 40 €. An advantage was that we could do it slow and take time to enjoy the nice views
We tried to avoid going back to the place where we left the beach and tried to take a shortcut through meadows and undergrowth. That turned out to be not a good decision. Finding the way into Boo de Pielagos was complicated ( for us, we were directed in the wrong drection by a passer- by)@Vaughan Thanks for the specific data point from your GPS tracker. That's helpful information.
@Antonius Vaessen - Your response was ideal as my wife and I didn't really want to walk through some of this beautiful scenery in a rushed day. Thus, I have just booked a night at the Hotel Costa San Juan at the Soto de la Marina (it's still Euro 40!). I will work out myself, but from Soto de la Marina, it's like 10km to Boos de Pielagos. What was your next end point, given there's a train to catch at Boos to cross to Mogro station, and the distance to Santillana del Mar seems too much for a day?
I walked this a couple of weeks ago. From memory I don't think there any very steep or arduous sections. My GPS tracker recorded just over 350m of ascent for the whole day so one of the easier days.
Please note -the hostel in Boo is closed.Hi All,
My wife and I are on the Camino del Norte right now in Islares. I am reading ahead and noted the 31.7km coastal route option between Santander and Boo (#5 in Peregrina2000's originating post). We are slow walkers, and find that if there's a mountainous stretch we make very slow progress. Net, do you recall if this stretch has any significant steep inclines/declines? We reach Santander in 3 days time. Thanks in advance for your response.
You mean the albergue close to the stationPlease note -the hostel in Boo is closed.
I forgot to add a question mark. So is the albergue closed???You mean the albergue close to the station
To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
I did exactly the same this year too. Same walk, same accommodation, same train stop - Spooky - Great suggestion.I hope this is in time to be useful. I walked this year. We stopped for the night at the campsite bungalows in Camping Costa San Juan (booking .com) at Soto de la Marina. Next day we jumped on the train after walking to Boo and stayed on board until reaching Barreda. I attach screenshots of my wiciloc track which show elevation profiles. You are welcome to take a look at my blog for a description of these stages. I followed other coastal options where possible.
Great minds!I did exactly the same this year too. Same walk, same accommodation, same train stop - Spooky - Great suggestion.
Thanks Magwood. Love your approach to stay on the train till Barreda. Right now, I am leaning towards that. I will also check out your blog - thanks for the link! Since @David with new Kit! also seconded that! It gets us to Santilllana without more nights in between stages (Santander to Santilllana).I hope this is in time to be useful. I walked this year. We stopped for the night at the campsite bungalows in Camping Costa San Juan (booking .com) at Soto de la Marina. Next day we jumped on the train after walking to Boo and stayed on board until reaching Barreda. I attach screenshots of my wiciloc track which show elevation profiles. You are welcome to take a look at my blog for a description of these stages. I followed other coastal options where possible.
Thank you so much for this. Having walked Frances and Portuguese (from Lisboa), I am looking to avoid as much asphalt as possible even if making the walk a bit longer. This is an excellent resource and very well explained. Thank you. Buen Camino.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
HELP! LOL! I have now gone back to my computer 5 times trying to add your amazing recommendations for alternatives to the initial route I planned via Gronze. I am having a very difficult time finding the paths you highlight above with distance and routes and whether this adjusts my destination each day and therefore total plan or just adds distance.each day. Any helo you can provide is greatly appreciated. I plan on leaving Canada last week of April or first week of May.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Thank you. This is very helpful. Is there an app specifically in need to use for wikiloc? Thank you and blessings.I’m hoping that Wise Pilgrim will chime in here, because I think his app shows all these coastal alternatives so you could do the calculations.
Except for the case of the alternative around the coast north of Santander, I just did those alternatives without changing the days, if that makes any sense. That is, on the day I walked the Ruta del Flysch (on the day from Zumaia to Deba), I just incorporated the detour/alternative into my day’s walk and walked from Zumaia to Deba. Same with all of the others — the listing shows which stage I did the detours in.
Not sure this is making much sense, but I understand that some people would want to recalibrate and recalculate with the coastal alternatives, because it is true that in some cases they added a big handful of kilometers to the day.
I walked those stages at age 67, but now 5 years later I have seen a drop in my endurance despite my best efforts, so I am betting I would have to do some recalculating too if I were to do it again.
As far as finding the paths, I have given my wikiloc tracks, which connect with the Camino routes. I am not able to give you much help with GPS other than with wikiloc,which I love and have used since I first walked the Olvidado in 2014.
Good luck and I hope you can find the way to do at least some of these alternatives because they just made this Norte so much more beautiful with so much less asphalt!
I’ll also be walking del Norte same time!HELP! LOL! I have now gone back to my computer 5 times trying to add your amazing recommendations for alternatives to the initial route I planned via Gronze. I am having a very difficult time finding the paths you highlight above with distance and routes and whether this adjusts my destination each day and therefore total plan or just adds distance.each day. Any helo you can provide is greatly appreciated. I plan on leaving Canada last week of April or first week of May.
Thank you kindly! I hope to follow this during the fall.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
I did the same. I used Mapy.cz ALL the time. It was my go to map app as it had the official Camino route clearly marked on it and so any alternative I took I could see where I was in relation to the original.My husband and I walked the first half of the Norte last year. We found all the coastal alternatives on the Mapy.cz app. The alternatives between Zumaia and Deba are fabulous.
I would highly recommend these coastal alternatives. A couple of notes to add from my recent trip along the Norte.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
How did it go for you, Michael? Any input? If you have any documents with notes that you want to share, please do. I'm in planning mode!Thank you. This is very helpful. Is there an app specifically in need to use for wikiloc? Thank you and blessings.
I'm on the Norte now, and the Wise Pilgrim Norte app shows more alternates than Buen Camino. I use both apps, and it's strange - when I walked the Norte five years ago it seemed that more pilgrims were using Wise Pilgrim. I couldn't get it to work well on my Android, so I relied on Buen Camino. This year is say that at least 90% of pilgrims are using Buen Camino, and I haven't met one who is using Wise Pilgrim.Check out the alternate trails on Buen Camino and Gronze. I have avoided a lot of roads and walked by a lot of coastal paths. Lots of options but kind of hard to plan. Just got to get over here and seek out the coastal routes.
Agree. I'd hate to do it in the rain!Zumaia to Deba
Fair warning here. Beautiful hike, but one of the scariest I’ve done from a steepness standpoint. There is a section that is steeper than any section I’ve ever done on the Fances or Portugues, where if I didn’t hold on to the fence I would have slid down the cliff.
Thanks. I'll read it carefully.To explain -- I walked the Norte in 2007 and suffered mightily with all the pavement. In fact, I found my foot in a walking cast for about 4 months afterwards due to the pounding. Tarsal tunnel is what they called it.
I went back to the Norte this year and got a lot of forum help in finding coastal alternatives. For me one of the biggest Norte frustrations was that it is a Camino that is frequently within a few kms of beautiful coastlines but the arrows keep you pounding the pavement on the side of the national highway.
I'm attaching a document that contains descriptions of my "Camino detours" and a few other stretches where the standard route has an alternative. Most are coastal, but a couple are not and have been added just for the heck of it. Here is a list of what the document describes:
1. Ruta Alpinista (Irún to Pasajes)
2. Pasajes to San Sebastián
3. Zumaia to Deba
4. Castro Urdiales to Laredo
5. Santander to Boo via the coast
6. La Franca to Llanes
7. Llanes to Playa del Poo (and beyond)
8. After La Nueva to Ribadesella
9. Dipping down to Oviedo from Villaviciosa
10. A Detour to Cudillero
11. Soto to Cadavedo
12. La Caridad to Ribadeo
13. Mondoñedo to Gontán
14. Baamonde to Sobrado
15. Sobrado to Pedrouzo/Arca
And at the suggestion of another forum member, I am going to add posts with a few pictures to illustrate most of these alternatives -- I think that once people see what they are missing, these coastal options will become more popular!
Buen camino, Laurie
Oh, absolutely. These alternatives are on dirt/rocky/grassy trails — much easier on the feet. And many more feasts for the eyes, because the coast is so beautiful. It’s been 7 years since I walked these trails, but updates from forum members in the interim make me think that they are still very much possible and very much to be encouraged! And to anyone planning these detours, pay careful attention to the additions of even more options by forum members — there have been a lot of suggestions in the subsequent posts that would add to the enjoyment!Thanks. I'll read it carefully.
In your opinion, will these alternate routes make El Norte less pavement crazy? Thus, do you recommend it?
Hi, @Rafael1214,Hi Laurie, thanks for providing the alternate coastal variant routes for the Norte in 2017. Has there been any route changes since then?
This is one of the most beautiful coastal hikes I did, but beware, there are parts that are very steep and with loose terrain that is easy to slip going down. Anyone with a heavy backpack should reconsider, even with poles. But if you have a lighter (or no) backpack, and poles, and are in decent shape - this is a beautiful section.3. Zumaia to Deba
GPS tracks for this route (called Ruta del Flysch or GR 121) here: https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=14764882
@Rafael1214, I do hope you have time to post your experience of walking the Norte, especially following some of the alternative coastal paths? I, for one, would be very grateful as my own Norte won't be until SeptemberHi Laurie, thanks for providing the alternate coastal variant routes for the Norte in 2017. Has there been any route changes since then?
I’m doing my first Camino (Norte) on April 18 and I’d like to stay away from pavements and be by the coast as much as possible. I have the time to explore and I’m able to add a few kms in a day to enjoyThanks again!
I’d be happy to.@Rafael1214, I do hope you have time to post your experience of walking the Norte, especially following some of the alternative coastal paths? I, for one, would be very grateful as my own Norte won't be until September
Our roads might just cross. I am starting from Bilbao April 25thHi Laurie, thanks for providing the alternate coastal variant routes for the Norte in 2017. Has there been any route changes since then?
I’m doing my first Camino (Norte) on April 18 and I’d like to stay away from pavements and be by the coast as much as possible. I have the time to explore and I’m able to add a few kms in a day to enjoyThanks again!
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?