LIVE from the Camino Chrissy on the Camino Ingles

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi all,
I'm still in Spain and we are spending two days in A CORUNA, having taken an early morning train here after walking the Invierno from Ponferrada to Monforte de Lemos.

The weather here has been pretty good, especially from about 11:00am to 4:00ishpm, when it stays dry, warm, and the sun pops in and out of clouds after a bit of early drizzle. We have done all of our sightseeing on foot for these two days.
I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Yesterday we started at the west beach and walked it around to the world's oldest working lighthouse, the Tower of Hercules. Its height shows that this city of 245,000 is full of many highrises; a surprise to me.
Thankfully we continued our walk along the ocean. The huge park beyond and its trails had a relaxed feel of being in nature, and ends at the very interesting Menhir Monument, a "dolmen" recreated area of huge granite pieces, reminding me a bit of Stonehenge.

Today we spent time in the Old Town historic area with its lovely streets, shops, and eateries. We saw about 4 or 5 old churches and cathedrals, and since it's Saturday we happened upon two weddings getting underway with well dressed men and women walking in to attend the ceremonies.

Next up was heading over to the San Anton Castle and museum. It was a definite highlight with many artifacts and views of the harbor, including a cruise ship in port.
On our way back to our hotel we stopped for Menu del dias and enjoyed our choices, including the layered chocolate cake for dessert.

We leave tomorrow by bus for FERROL, where we start the Ingles on Monday morning...I'm excited!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Ooops, here's the map. Places we visited are circled.

 

[Tincatinker]

Hey Chrissy, this was our view from the Torre just the other day

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hey Chrissy, this was our view from the Torre just the other day View attachment 178680

Well, a bummer. Your good news was at least the admission is cheap.
We didn't have a good opportunity to check out your favorite bars by the train station. After walking around all day I was too tired to go back to the train station area. Tomorrow we hoof it to the bus station.

 

[VNwalking]

Ah, too late to recommend a visit to one of Spain's most venerable trees, the Pohutukawa at the police station, brought here from NZ perhaps as early as the 1500s.

 

[Tincatinker]

Well, a bummer. Your good news was at least the admission is cheap.
We didn't have a good opportunity to check out your favorite bars by the train station. After walking around all day I was too tired to go back to the train station area. Tomorrow we hoof it to the bus station.

Which is just across the inter urban expressway from the train station. The Pastelería Carabellos (spelling?) will do you good coffee, middle standard pasties and a sello if they’re not too busy

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Which is just across the inter urban expressway from the train station. The Pastelería Carabellos (spelling?) will do you good coffee, middle standard pasties and a sello if they’re not too busy

I'll look it up on google in the morning and see what can be done about that!

I just googled and it is nearly at the bus station, and open on Sunday at 9:00am, so it should work to stop in..

 

[naplesdon]

Love that town and the food in the old town.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Which is just across the inter urban expressway from the train station. The Pastelería Carabellos (spelling?) will do you good coffee, middle standard pasties and a sello if they’re not too busy

We are at the bus station and I had a takeaway cafe con leche, and this interesting morsel of goodness...yum and only €2:30 for both. I'd not noticed them anywhere else in A Coruna, but I am often oblivious.

 

[Kirkie]

Try to book into Camino Real albergue in Siguiero. The first and enduring impression was welcome, and generosity. The husband of the lady recognised as hospitalera in my searching is a musician. He has a piano accordion. See if he will play for you!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Sounds lovely, but our arrangements have been made in advance. Possibly we can stop in if we have time nd ask for the musician to play.

 

[CamisMors]

Hi Chrissy

I’m looking forward to following your updates from the Camino Inglés. I’ll be walking it next week as well, starting on the 8th. I am a bit concerned about the weather—it doesn’t look too promising from the forecast, but hopefully it won’t be too bad. Maybe our paths will cross along the way.

Wishing you a Buen Camino!

 

[naplesdon]

We are at the bus station and I had a takeaway cafe con leche, and this interesting morsel of goodness...yum and only €2:30 for both. I'd not noticed them anywhere else in A Coruna, but I am often oblivious.
View attachment 178705

A chicken empanada of sorts

 

[Peter J Martin]

I'm still in Spain and we are spending two days in A CORUNA, having taken an early morning train here after walking the Invierno from Ponferrada to Monforte de Lemos.

The weather here has been pretty good, especially from about 11:00am to 4:00ishpm, when it stays dry, warm, and the sun pops in and out of clouds after a bit of early drizzle. We have done all of our sightseeing on foot for these two days.
I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Yesterday we started at the west beach and walked it around to the world's oldest working lighthouse, the Tower of Hercules. Its height shows that this city of 245,000 is full of many highrises; a surprise to me.
Thankfully we continued our walk along the ocean. The huge park beyond and its trails had a relaxed feel of being in nature, and ends at the very interesting Menhir Monument, a "dolmen" recreated area of huge granite pieces, reminding me a bit of Stonehenge.

Today we spent time in the Old Town historic area with its lovely streets, shops, and eateries. We saw about 4 or 5 old churches and cathedrals, and since it's Saturday we happened upon two weddings getting underway with well dressed men and women walking in to attend the ceremonies.

Next up was heading over to the San Anton Castle and museum. It was a definite highlight with many artifacts and views of the harbor, including a cruise ship in port.
On our way back to our hotel we stopped for Menu del dias and enjoyed our choices, including the layered chocolate cake for dessert.

We leave tomorrow by bus for FERROL, where we start the Ingles on Monday morning...I'm excited!
View attachment 178669View attachment 178670View attachment 178671View attachment 178672View attachment 178673View attachment 178674View attachment 178675View attachment 178676View attachment 178677View attachment 178678

The world's oldest operational light house is Hook Head in County Wexford, Ireland. A search on Wikipedia will confirm this. It is in my home county.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Tincatinker, I'd forgotten to say earlier, but the gal who waited on me for the takeaway cafe con leche and snack this morning had no idea about any sello available. You must have an "in" with the owner who was not there.

 

[Blister Bill]

Ah, too late to recommend a visit to one of Spain's most venerable trees, the Pohutukawa at the police station, brought here from NZ perhaps as early as the 1500s.

The trees were in full bloom when visiting in August. They are literally everywhere. The significance of 1500 may be lost for a country officially discovered by the Dutch in 1642!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

The trees were in full bloom when visiting in August. They are literally everywhere. The significance of 1500 may be lost for a country officially discovered by the Dutch in 1642!

This link might be of interest:

Spanish pohutukawa fuels 'first voyage' debate - NZ Herald

Latest breaking news articles, photos, video, blogs, reviews, analysis, opinion and reader comment from New Zealand and around the World - NZ Herald

www.nzherald.co.nz

Edited to add: there is of course the Old Spanish conquistador helmet in I think Te Papa (museum ), plus an old shipwreck, both of which supposedly predate Able Tasman. A New Zealander did travel to A Corona and attempt to date the tree, but unsurprisingly the local officials would not let him make an invasive test.

 

[Tincatinker]

this interesting morsel of goodness

Yummy aren’t they

@Tincatinker, I'd forgotten to say earlier, but the gal who waited on me for the takeaway cafe con leche and snack this morning had no idea about any sello available. You must have an "in" with the owner who was not there.

Oh well, in Spain every business has a stamp. Some very boring, some very.... Their sello was one of their empanadilla arranged as a smile with two smiley eyes above. I can't find the relevant credencial to photograph and post without ruining dinner

 

[mattythedog]

Hi all,
I'm still in Spain and we are spending two days in A CORUNA, having taken an early morning train here after walking the Invierno from Ponferrada to Monforte de Lemos.

The weather here has been pretty good, especially from about 11:00am to 4:00ishpm, when it stays dry, warm, and the sun pops in and out of clouds after a bit of early drizzle. We have done all of our sightseeing on foot for these two days.
I'm sending a picture of the areas on our map we have walked and enjoyed; they are circled.

Yesterday we started at the west beach and walked it around to the world's oldest working lighthouse, the Tower of Hercules. Its height shows that this city of 245,000 is full of many highrises; a surprise to me.
Thankfully we continued our walk along the ocean. The huge park beyond and its trails had a relaxed feel of being in nature, and ends at the very interesting Menhir Monument, a "dolmen" recreated area of huge granite pieces, reminding me a bit of Stonehenge.

Today we spent time in the Old Town historic area with its lovely streets, shops, and eateries. We saw about 4 or 5 old churches and cathedrals, and since it's Saturday we happened upon two weddings getting underway with well dressed men and women walking in to attend the ceremonies.

Next up was heading over to the San Anton Castle and museum. It was a definite highlight with many artifacts and views of the harbor, including a cruise ship in port.
On our way back to our hotel we stopped for Menu del dias and enjoyed our choices, including the layered chocolate cake for dessert.

We leave tomorrow by bus for FERROL, where we start the Ingles on Monday morning...I'm excited!
View attachment 178669View attachment 178670View attachment 178671View attachment 178672View attachment 178673View attachment 178674View attachment 178675View attachment 178676View attachment 178677View attachment 178678

Fantastic post, Chrissy!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

CAMINO INGLES
Day 1-
We arrived in FERROL in mid afternoon yesterday by bus from A Coruna. While waiting for our hotel check in time we dropped off our backpacks and headed out for lunch, raciones and a drink.

We really wanted to visit the Naval Museum as it looked amazing in online pictures, but on Sunday it closes at 1:30pm...darn! The naval shipyard and military arsenal in Ferrol encompasses a huge amount of property along the water and was massive and and very impressive.

We wandered around some of the streets and sidewalks, lined up perfectly with nice vehicles, and they had absolutely no trash of any kind!
We also walked over to where this Camino begins, but it was closed until 5pm and a distance from our hotel, so we didn't go back again.

Day 2-
Today we left at 7:30am and began walking to Ponteduema. I wasn't sure I'd commit to getting a Compostela in Santiago, but decided to collect two sellos per day just in case.

We shortened the day some by walking on a bridge across the water instead of going all the way around on the Camino as Gronze showed two bridges as alternatives and we took the shorter bridge. For anyone interested to know, there is a safe six foot wide walkway across and is protected from traffic.

We got started on the bridge when a high wind kicked up and we looked off in the sky to our right and a dark area of clouds seemed to be heading our way. Yep, we soon got pelted with torrential rain and wind for about 15 minutes and I was hardly able to stand up as we slowly made our way across. It ripped my son's pack cover off and we ended up like drowned rats! Too bad we didn't put on our rain pants this morning as the rain inched its way up under my rain jacket and even my "derriere" got wet. It felt good to walk city streets for awhile as the storm softened. A couple of hours later the sun came out to blue skies so we found a spot to make our picnic lunch...at a covered bus stop that was dry.

The terrain became lovely as we entered the woods and hills, and all the foliage glistened after the earlier downpour.bThankfully, as we arrived at our lodging in Ponteduema at 2:30, we were nearly dried out, minus our shoes and socks.

In all of my numerous and varied Caminos, this bridge crossing "adventure" had the worst rain I've experienced; all out in the open with no buffer of any kind. My second worse was walking out of Castrojerez on the Meseta in early May 2017; two memories not to be forgotten.

Tomorrow is a new day and weather predictions call for more rain.




Here it comes!



Bad boys.


You never knew it had rained.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3-
This day of 20km was supposed to be windy and rainy, but we lucked out with only a few moments of drizzle and I never needed my rain jacket. That was a good thing as short sleeves and my loose fitting leggings were a good combination on this coolish day.

The walk was really great overall, with the usual ups and downs in the 20km from Ponteduema to Betanzos. It was mostly on small backroads which I personally don't mind. The eucalyptus forests were quite nice with golden color ferns in their fall brightness as a carpet.

We played "tag" with nearly twenty walkers today, but it seemed none were from the US. Most were Spanish, a few Asians, and two women from England. It seemed a majority were using pack transport and seemed to walk in groups of about five each, so possibly they were part of tour groups.

I enjoy taking pictures of colorful flowers and always find quite a few opportunities, even in the fall season.

Some may find this odd, but I am always amazed at the humongous concrete bridges that have been built spanning valleys, gorges and rivers an estuaries. I always take pictures from different angles as I pass underneath. I have ridden in cars overhead numerous times over the years, but until you walk step by step underneath them, it is impossible to appreciate the engineering feat that goes into the mass of concrete it takes to build them. I usually take it all for granted.

We passed by an old cemetery heading into Betanzos, which reminded me of the "picturesque" one in Logrono, and also saw a couple of churches that were open.

We are settled into a lovely Airbnb for the night and self-catered having pizza, shrimp, and a bottle of cold vino blanco as we have a full kitchen here.

Tomorrow is supposed to be extremely windy and rainy, so we will see how that plays out as we head to Presedo. We sre staying at a private lodging since I am a slow walker, and did not want to assume we'd get the few beds available in the non-reservable albergue; the only other option around.

 

[chinacat]

Take care today, Chrissy ..
That wind and rain is the remains of the hurricane which ate parts of the US south-east: Helene, I think it was called.

Buen Camino, hope you remember to wear your waterproof trousers!
Don’t get blown away

Edit: It might be hurricane Kirk … sorry!

 

[Kirkie]

Day 3-
This day of 20km was supposed to be windy and rainy, but we lucked out with only a few moments of drizzle and I never needed my rain jacket. That was a good thing as short sleeves and my loose fitting leggings were a good combination on this coolish day.

The walk was really great overall, with the usual ups and downs in the 20km from Ponteduema to Betanzos. It was mostly on small backroads which I personally don't mind. The eucalyptus forests were quite nice with golden color ferns in their fall brightness as a carpet.

We played "tag" with nearly twenty walkers today, but it seemed none were from the US. Most were Spanish, a few Asians, and two women from England. It seemed a majority were using pack transport and seemed to walk in groups of about five each, so possibly they were part of tour groups.

I enjoy taking pictures of colorful flowers and always find quite a few opportunities, even in the fall season.

Some may find this odd, but I am always amazed at the humongous concrete bridges that have been built spanning valleys, gorges and rivers an estuaries. I always take pictures from different angles as I pass underneath. I have ridden in cars overhead numerous times over the years, but until you walk step by step underneath them, it is impossible to appreciate the engineering feat that goes into the mass of concrete it takes to build them. I usually take it all for granted.

We passed by an old cemetery heading into Betanzos, which reminded me of the "picturesque" one in Logrono, and also saw a couple of churches that were open.

We are settled into a lovely Airbnb for the night and self-catered having pizza, shrimp, and a bottle of cold vino blanco as we have a full kitchen here.

Tomorrow is supposed to be extremely windy and rainy, so we will see how that plays out as we head to Presedo. We sre staying at a private lodging since I am a slow walker, and did not want to assume we'd get the few beds available in the non-reservable albergue; the only other option around.
View attachment 178834View attachment 178835View attachment 178836View attachment 178837View attachment 178838View attachment 178839
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I know that bridge, Chris! Like you, we reserved, the whole way, as I would not have relished sleeping outside, and all the young people were galloping along way ahead! Stay safe.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I had similar thoughts (and took similar photos) when passing under the Motorway.
A shame about the weather, but still, better to be walking than not.

 

[Abigel]

Hi Chrissy, thanks for the live updates. I'll be starting the Camino Inglés on Sunday (hopefully Hurricane Kirk will not do much damage) and I was wondering if bringing my trekking poles would be worth it. What's your experience so far? Also, I'll be walking alone, I was hoping for some silent walking meditation. Based on your posts, I may see a few people, so won't be completely alone, but walking in silence would be possible, correct?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Chrissy, thanks for the live updates. I'll be starting the Camino Inglés on Sunday (hopefully Hurricane Kirk will not do much damage) and I was wondering if bringing my trekking poles would be worth it. What's your experience so far? Also, I'll be walking alone, I was hoping for some silent walking meditation. Based on your posts, I may see a few people, so won't be completely alone, but walking in silence would be possible, correct?

I have always only used one trekking pole, so can not give an opinion for using two. So far the Ingles seems to be on quaint country roads without cars, but there is some climbing, both up and down.
I think you will be able to walk in silence if you choose as many seem to be walking in small groups or clusters or with a partner. I think it will not be difficult to be on your own if you prefer. Not sure what lodging style you want, but if you stay in the albergues, you will "rub shoulders" in some conversations with other walkers.
I hope all the recent rain will turn into some sunshine for you!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4-
We had light rain on our walk the whole way from Betanzos to Presedo, but the windy spots were barely enough to bother mentioning. I was thankful, especially as we were able to make good use of our lightweight, 4 oz. umbrellas.
We walked through many eucalyptus forests and they actually look more attractive when wet, as their bark turns a deep golden color when wet. The past several days we have seen literally thousands of chestnuts all over the ground.

The highlight of the day was our destination at our lodging at a 1000 year old beautifully renovated monastery filled with antiques and artwork. The building is owned by the Church, but leased to a couple for the past 24 years and also has a restaurant of fine dining, which was excellent. The whole property is filled with antiques, artwork, and sitting spaces.

The ancient church is next door. I googled, but didn't get much information.



"Rectoral de Cines" Monastery lodging.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

(continued)-
The 1000 year old church.
I took a picture through the keyhole. You can see quite abit in full size

 

[Abigel]

I have always only used one trekking pole, so can not give an opinion for using two. So far the Ingles seems to be on quaint country roads without cars, but there is some climbing, both up and down.
I think you will be able to walk in silence if you choose as many seem to be walking in small groups or clusters or with a partner. I think it will not be difficult to be on your own if you prefer. Not sure what lodging style you want, but if you stay in the albergues, you will "rub shoulders" in some conversations with other walkers.
I hope all the recent rain will turn into some sunshine for you!

Thanks, Chrissy, this is very useful. I reserved ahead, so lodging won't be an issue. Your descriptions are helpful for preparation - I just added my umbrella as well after today's post.