Pilgrim 122
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- currently walking Rome to Santiago
I have just returned from walking part of the Camino Viejo. This was part of a pilgrimage I am making, in stages, from Rome to Santiago de Compostela and this section was from Jaca , on the Aragonese to Dobro.I didn't want to re-walk any Caminos and the Viejo seemed ideal. I was initially a bit put off by the remoteness of parts of the route and the mountain hiking . Not being all that adventurous or athletic I decided to stay in the valley and follow the river Ebro. The views, even in the valley were lovely and I am glad I decided to go this way. I tried to stay on minor roads , which is my preference , and I also used the GR99 which was mostly good.
1. Pamplona to Irutzun. After Pamplona a track along side the main road and then later a nice via verde bicycle track.
2. Irutzun to Altsasu. I visited San Miguel in Arular .what a long way up it was! Bravo to @Paulo Arantes and anyone else who hiked up there with a backpack , I was in a car and was scared to look out of the window it was so high up. The sanctuary was wonderful. I was so grateful to be able to spend some time in such a holy place and join my prayers with those of all the pilgrims who have been there before me. On the way back down there were some vultures on the road ! I was dropped off at Zamarte but unfortunately it was shut. I planned to walk to Altsaau along a road running parallel to the main road with little traffic but only got as far as Arbizu. It was the day the tail end of the hurricane was blowing over northern Spain. I ended up huddling in a stone bus shelter for an hour and then taking the bus.
3. Altsasu to Salvatierra- Agurain ( via San Adrian tunnel) San Adrian tunnel was on my camino 'bucket list' so really glad to have done this .
4. Salvatierra-Agurain to Vitoria-Gastiez. I joined a via verde just before the sanctuary of Nuestra Signora de Estibaliz. Another lovely Romanesque church with a community of sisters living there, they were praying the Rosary when I arrived. I continued on the via verde all the way to Vitoria. Definitely my favourite type of path.
5. Rest day . I took a train from Vitoria Gastiez back to Salvatierra-Agurain and managed to visit the two Romanesque churches of Gazeo and Alaitza with their medieval wall paintings. I was so pleased to have been able to arrange this . The churches are only open on Saturdays and you have to join the tour ( in Spanish).
6. Vitoria Gastiez to Miranda de Ebro. Following the camino Vasco .
7. Miranda de Ebro to Sobron. I kept to the south of the river and walked on minor roads through Suzana, Montanana and Guincio then on GR 99 to join main road to Puentelarra and then on the road round to Sobron which had some traffic .
8. Sobron to Quintana Martin Galindez. I planned to walk along the road. The owner of the hotel adivsed it ws too dangerous through the tunnels so he arranged me a taxi. The driver dropped me at Tobalinilla just after the Embalse de Sobron. I walked on small roads and paths via Santa Maria de Girona, Barcina del Barco and Pangusion avoiding the main road. Sarah the owner of the Albergue was waiting for me , she was not feeling well but had made a special effort to come and greet me which I really appreciated, so kind of her.
9. Quintana Martin Galindez to Trespaderne. I stayed on small roads and walked via Montejo de San Miguel, Frias - wow! what an amazing medieval city even in the rain it was great, Quintanaseca, then GR99 to Cillaperlata and back on roads still on south side of the Ebro to Valdecastro and Trespaderne. A really lovely walk through fields with the mountains all around.
10. Trespaderne to Dobro. This is way too far for me to walk. I had arranged a lift to Puente Arenas. I could see the quickest way would be along the road past El amine but I really wanted to avoid the big dogs @WestKirstie met so I planned to walk on the road that leads from Valdenoceda. The driver couldn't come until after lunch, it was raining hard and had been all morning . I couldn't face it and just took the ride all the way . David the owner of La Nogala very kindly drove me to the alsa coach stop on the main road just after the 7 the next day to start my long journey home.
I could start in Trespaderne next time to make up for this and try and stay somewhere half way .
Going to carry on next Spring finishing the Viejo onto to the Olvidado to Ponferada, then just one more stage to Santiago!
1. Pamplona to Irutzun. After Pamplona a track along side the main road and then later a nice via verde bicycle track.
2. Irutzun to Altsasu. I visited San Miguel in Arular .what a long way up it was! Bravo to @Paulo Arantes and anyone else who hiked up there with a backpack , I was in a car and was scared to look out of the window it was so high up. The sanctuary was wonderful. I was so grateful to be able to spend some time in such a holy place and join my prayers with those of all the pilgrims who have been there before me. On the way back down there were some vultures on the road ! I was dropped off at Zamarte but unfortunately it was shut. I planned to walk to Altsaau along a road running parallel to the main road with little traffic but only got as far as Arbizu. It was the day the tail end of the hurricane was blowing over northern Spain. I ended up huddling in a stone bus shelter for an hour and then taking the bus.
3. Altsasu to Salvatierra- Agurain ( via San Adrian tunnel) San Adrian tunnel was on my camino 'bucket list' so really glad to have done this .
4. Salvatierra-Agurain to Vitoria-Gastiez. I joined a via verde just before the sanctuary of Nuestra Signora de Estibaliz. Another lovely Romanesque church with a community of sisters living there, they were praying the Rosary when I arrived. I continued on the via verde all the way to Vitoria. Definitely my favourite type of path.
5. Rest day . I took a train from Vitoria Gastiez back to Salvatierra-Agurain and managed to visit the two Romanesque churches of Gazeo and Alaitza with their medieval wall paintings. I was so pleased to have been able to arrange this . The churches are only open on Saturdays and you have to join the tour ( in Spanish).
6. Vitoria Gastiez to Miranda de Ebro. Following the camino Vasco .
7. Miranda de Ebro to Sobron. I kept to the south of the river and walked on minor roads through Suzana, Montanana and Guincio then on GR 99 to join main road to Puentelarra and then on the road round to Sobron which had some traffic .
8. Sobron to Quintana Martin Galindez. I planned to walk along the road. The owner of the hotel adivsed it ws too dangerous through the tunnels so he arranged me a taxi. The driver dropped me at Tobalinilla just after the Embalse de Sobron. I walked on small roads and paths via Santa Maria de Girona, Barcina del Barco and Pangusion avoiding the main road. Sarah the owner of the Albergue was waiting for me , she was not feeling well but had made a special effort to come and greet me which I really appreciated, so kind of her.
9. Quintana Martin Galindez to Trespaderne. I stayed on small roads and walked via Montejo de San Miguel, Frias - wow! what an amazing medieval city even in the rain it was great, Quintanaseca, then GR99 to Cillaperlata and back on roads still on south side of the Ebro to Valdecastro and Trespaderne. A really lovely walk through fields with the mountains all around.
10. Trespaderne to Dobro. This is way too far for me to walk. I had arranged a lift to Puente Arenas. I could see the quickest way would be along the road past El amine but I really wanted to avoid the big dogs @WestKirstie met so I planned to walk on the road that leads from Valdenoceda. The driver couldn't come until after lunch, it was raining hard and had been all morning . I couldn't face it and just took the ride all the way . David the owner of La Nogala very kindly drove me to the alsa coach stop on the main road just after the 7 the next day to start my long journey home.
I could start in Trespaderne next time to make up for this and try and stay somewhere half way .
Going to carry on next Spring finishing the Viejo onto to the Olvidado to Ponferada, then just one more stage to Santiago!
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