Camino Primitivo in Early October - Seeking Advice

[JennySoloTravel]

Hi everyone,
I'm planning to do the Camino Primitivo this October and since it's a bit of a last minute I would love some advice.
This will be my second Camino, after doing a part of the Frances a couple of years ago, and the first camino I do solo.

1. I know that October isn't a popular season, but I'm still hoping to meet fellow pilgrims along the way. Do you have any recommendations for accommodations that tend to be more social? Any tips in this regard would be very helpful.
2. Should I book accommodations in advance, or is it generally okay to just show up and find a place to stay?
3. I've heard that there are some areas along the Primitivo where dogs can be a concern. Is there a way to avoid these paths or take precautions?
4. After reading many threads and comments about the walking stages, I'm trying to understand - do people genreally walk this Camino only until Melide, instead of continueing on the Frances all the way to Santiago de Compostela? I've read that some people prefer to drive from Melide to Santiago instead of continie walking, and I'm just wondering why.

Thank you for your help!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, @JennySoloTravel, welcome to the forum

I walked my first Primitivo in September, and again in September 2021. Even way back when in 2008, there were still enough pilgrims so that I was never alone in albergues. In 2021, the numbers had increased dramatically, and I was surprised that the Primitivo “summer bottlenecks”(Grado and Berducedo) had full albergues that late in the season. I remember that in Grandas, one of the private albergues was just closing for the season, but there was plenty available. I think that you are very likely to have few enough pilgrims to not feel crowded, but enough to keep the albergue open.

I also think that what you’ve read about people stopping in Melide has to do with people who don’t want to experience the “crush” of the Francés — in October, this is much less likely to be an issue for you, and I think those few days from Melide are quite nice and I would highly recommend walking to Santiago over driving!!”

I’ve walked the Primitivo 4 or 5 times and have never had a dog issue (though I have on the Invierno and the Finisterre route), but I think that for the most part these would be isolated incidents that happen when someone inadvertently leaves a gate open or something like that. I don’t think you should worry about “dog problems”.

In terms of booking, I did not book too much ahead in September 2021, but usually called
/WhatsApped my hoped-for destination the night before or the morning of, and there was never a problem.

The Primitivo is beautiful in early autumn! You may be lucky and see some snow, though I don’t think it’s a concern for walking. I remember leaving Tineo early one morning in early October and seeing snow on the hills in the distance and it was beautiful. Good luck and buen camino!

 

[Telelama]

↑ yea, what peregrina2000 said!

We've walked it twice, as recent as early June '24. No issues with dogs on the Primitivo. We didn't hear about anyone that was driving from Melide to Santiago. Most everyone we met walked on to Santiago (we knew four people that ended in Lugo, but it was planned ending due to time constraints) In early June, the Frances from Melide to Santiago was described to us by a friend, whom we met in Santiago after they walked in, "like walking around Disneyland". It'll still be busy, it was when we walked the Frances in October a number of years ago, but not as bad as July to September.

You may consider walking the Camino Verde plus the variante to the Santiago airport. There's a few write-ups on this route here: (https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/forums/camino-verde-from-lugo-to-sobrado.194/)

We did experience, as did others, concerns with four dogs on a farm on the route to Sobrado, the second day of the Verde. We didn't have an issue with them, they mostly lounged in the sun when we walked by both times but they made us a bit nervous as they watched us intently and they were very large.

For places to stay, here's a few we enjoyed

Hotel Casa Sueno in Salas noreply@roomraccoon.com

Alojamiento Los Hospitales in Colinas de Arriba (lovely people, will make you a great sandwich to take over the hospitales route, which starts right outside their door) info@alojamientoloshospitales.com

Hostal Alba Lugo is actually a hotel, but the owner/operator is a pilgrim and is wonderful! Right downtown Lugo, in the pedestrian area. Nothing fancy, but a wonderful, loving, kind owner in Pedro. hola@hostalalbalugo.com

If you go the Verde and then the variante after Boimil, then consider staying at Casa Rico de Medín. Again a hotel, but the food is amazing!!

We tend to be 50/50 between bunkbeds and private rooms these years, but if you create friends, you can join them and party at their albergue no problemo! You don't have to be in some fun, popular, crowded albergue to meet people and have fun. This isn't your first Camino, so you understand.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I've only been fortunate enough to walk it once so far, beautiful Camino. I, too, walked the Verde ( beautiful , but definitely not social!). I followed the directions kindly given by @Telelama.

In terms of Albergues I personally loved Bodenaya, about 7km past Salas. Alison and Alberto were brilliant hosts. They're also pilgrims, very social Pilgrim dinner and breakfast.

I know that mid October last year they headed out on camino themselves. Be aware that they are closed Saturdays.

As I understand it some places close from mid-october so it might be worth a Whatsapp message/calling a day or two before, especially if there is somewhere you would particularly like to stay.

Zero issues with dogs on the Primitivo, I did have a run-in with an Alsatian on the Verde.

Buen Camino

 

[peregrina2000]

I did have a run-in with an Alsatian on the Verde.

Do you remember if that was before a descent to take you to Friol off-road?

 

[dbier]

What they all said.

I walked 15-28 September last year, and did not take the Verde. No dog issues at all, but you'd best be comfortable with cows if you go over Hospitales.

I prebooked 1-2 nights ahead. Lucky thing...Berducedo filled up. And I had a little trouble after Boente on the Frances...ended up with a 30km day into Santiago.

Many of the villages are small enough that, even if you're staying at one place, you'll often meet others for dinner elsewhere ( 20 yards or so), or at your place.

Check on Gronze for when places close. And WhatsApp them the day before.

Bring light...the sun doesn't rise there until about 0820 in late September.

Buen Camino.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Do you remember if that was before a descent to take you to Friol off-road?

It was on day two after Friol. Farm house on the left, climbing a little, slightly before turning off onto a long, blackberry lined lane ( they were in season - I can't remember ever having eaten so many).

 

[Camino Chrissy]

It was on day two after Friol. Farm house on the left, climbing a little, slightly before turning off onto a long, blackberry lined lane ( they were in season - I can't remember ever having eaten so many).

I love foraging for raspberries and blackberries on trails near home when in season. I see those bushes occasionally on the Caminos, but am glad I walk in spring or fall because I would not be able to pass them up in summer and possibly arriving at my intended destination quite late.

 

[Adelina]

Thanks all for your tips - I too begin the Primitivo on October 1 and am beginning to get quite excited (and nervous!)

 

[Tom Conklin]

I walked the Primitivo last October, finishing on the 22nd. It is very busy on the Primitivo right to the end of the month (I am not sure what November is like). You will have no problem meeting people. Booking depends on your comfort level and how fast you want to walk. Albergues can get full and we booked in many places but that was more out of convenience.

The albergue in Bodenaya is fantastic for many reasons. I would also recommend avoiding the albergue in Borres like the plague and going a bit south to Colinas de Ariba before tackling the Hospitales. The Albergue Los Hospitales in Colinas is excellent and there is an easy route back up to the northern route.

I have never had a problem with dogs on any Camino though I have heard stories. I don't think this is related to one Camino or one place. Problems with dogs are happenstance.

Walking the last bit of the French from Melide into Santiago is a matter of preference. There were many, many people last year. When we walked it was raining a lot so the combination of rain and people was a problem. I will never walk the last part of the French again, at least not in the busy seasons. There are many alternatives, including the Invierno, and I would not hesitate taking a bus in or back to some other route.

 

[David Tallan]

I wouldn't worry about the Primitivo being too solitary. It is one of the top five Caminos walked, according to the Cathedral statistics, if I remember correctly.

I walked on from Melide to Santiago. As peregrina2000 says, most people seeking to avoid the section between Melide to Santiago are worried about crowds. That will be less of a concern in October. If it is a concern, while the Camino Verde may be one option for keeping your solitude while walking, I found staying "off stage" (in my case, in Salceda and Lavacolla instead of Arzua and O Pedrouzo) more than sufficient to provide all the solitude I wanted in the last 50 km.

 

[JennySoloTravel]

Thank you all so much for your helpful information and detailed responses! It's a great help

 

[JennySoloTravel]

I would also recommend avoiding the albergue in Borres like the plague and going a bit south to Colinas de Ariba before tackling the Hospitales.

Just out of pure curiosity, what's wrong with the albergue in Borres?
Thanks for all your helpful advice!

 

[Tom Conklin]

Just out of pure curiosity, what's wrong with the albergue in Borres?
Thanks for all your helpful advice!

Luckily I am only going on reports of friends who wished they had not stayed there last October. They said it was dank, poorly maintained and had almost no appliances, pots, pans, plates etc. If you want, you can check it out but leave time and energy to go the extra 3 or 4 K to Colinas de Arriba just in case.

Take a look at the comments on Gronze.

 

[tommycamino]

What sort of weather are you expecting? I'm interested in doing the Primitivo next October.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I cannot comment on the Albergue in Borres.
However, should you wish to avoid it you would do well to stay at Casa Pascual in El Espin, a km or two before Borres. Silvia is an excellent host. It's a small donativo, very similar in spirit to Bodenaya, and the communal meal was excellent.
In fact Alison from Bodenaya recommended Silvia to me. They opened within weeks of each other in July 2023. Both have just 10 beds.
Both accept reservations.

 

[Aeote]

Hi, I am also planning Camino Primitivo in mid October. Since this is my first Camino, many things are uncertain like weather, terrain, and getting to Oviedo from Barcelona or the language.

 

[dbier]

Hi, I am also planning Camino Primitivo in mid October. Since this is my first Camino, many things are uncertain like weather, terrain, and getting to Oviedo from Barcelona or the language.

Aeote, not knowing your long distance hiking experience, and noting your concerns on language and terrain, why not just take the Frances from, say, Leon?

Also, if you're going to train from Barcelona, I'll bet my paycheck that you go through Madrid...

 

[Aeote]

Aeote, not knowing your long distance hiking experience, and noting your concerns on language and terrain, why not just take the Frances from, say, Leon?

Also, if you're going to train from Barcelona, I'll bet my paycheck that you go through Madrid...

Good day, I think I am quite confident as often hiked multi days in NZ. Last time, I hiked about 200km+ in less than 10 days over mountain paths. I will use my body language and take Spanish dictionary
I probably stay at municipal albergues as I personally like to go without making too much bookings and plans, since this time of year it would not be so busy.

Buen Camino

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@Aeote, if you've done multi-day treks on the mountain trails back home then you're more than capable of doing any of the caminos, in my personal opinion they're generally a walk in the park in comparison. Normally very well marked and nowhere near as rough, with the exception of the odd lesser walked route.

As good as our hut system in New Zealand is overall, the Albergues are definitely better - hot showers every day! Plus the fact that generally you don't have to carry more than perhaps one day's worth of food even on the more remote camino's.
Although at this time of year I would miss lighting the fire...

Buen Camino!

 

[Tincatinker]

Hi, I am also planning Camino Primitivo in mid October. Since this is my first Camino, many things are uncertain like weather, terrain, and getting to Oviedo from Barcelona or the language.

Oviedo from Barca. Train if you like long train rides and, yes, the fast route is Barca to Madrid, Madrid to Oviedo. Otherwise fly.

As for the language: learn the niceties and use them. And use the translation app on your phone. Phrase books are still full of “and I will require lodgings for my footman and the wife”.

 

[Aeote]

Oviedo from Barca. Train if you like long train rides and, yes, the fast route is Barca to Madrid, Madrid to Oviedo. Otherwise fly.

As for the language: learn the niceties and use them. And use the translation app on your phone. Phrase books are still full of “and I will require lodgings for my footman and the wife”.

Thank you, and I won't need a footman for this. I'm leaning to catching an overnight Alsa bus from Barca to Oviedo on the same day arrival. That's good that people don't need to carry food for more than a day.

At the moment, I'd be more thinking of the security when I walk around the streets in Barca.

Buen Camino

 

[dqduncan]

I wouldn't worry about the Primitivo being too solitary. It is one of the top five Caminos walked, according to the Cathedral statistics, if I remember correctly.

I walked on from Melide to Santiago. As peregrina2000 says, most people seeking to avoid the section between Melide to Santiago are worried about crowds. That will be less of a concern in October. If it is a concern, while the Camino Verde may be one option for keeping your solitude while walking, I found staying "off stage" (in my case, in Salceda and Lavacolla instead of Arzua and O Pedrouzo) more than sufficient to provide all the solitude I wanted in the last 50 km.

David, as I think you know, we had to bail, sadly, on the San Salvador/Primitivo during the 2nd ½ of this past September. Injury was the main reason, but the fact that Oviedo was HEAVING with pilgrims and exploratory calls directly to albergues indicated things were being booked well in advance was disconcerting. I was really surprised. So that was the 2nd issue. Without knowing I had 3-5 kms in me at the end of every day to look for a spot, I parked the plan for now.

I'd have thought October was easier going that way. I'd also be happy considering late spring (drier?? who knows these days). So, open to ideas on avoiding heavy traffic on the Primitivo which is really drawing interest - and not just from returning peregrinos.

 

[Leo24]

Hi everyone,
I'm planning to do the Camino Primitivo this October and since it's a bit of a last minute I would love some advice.
This will be my second Camino, after doing a part of the Frances a couple of years ago, and the first camino I do solo.

1. I know that October isn't a popular season, but I'm still hoping to meet fellow pilgrims along the way. Do you have any recommendations for accommodations that tend to be more social? Any tips in this regard would be very helpful.
2. Should I book accommodations in advance, or is it generally okay to just show up and find a place to stay?
3. I've heard that there are some areas along the Primitivo where dogs can be a concern. Is there a way to avoid these paths or take precautions?
4. After reading many threads and comments about the walking stages, I'm trying to understand - do people genreally walk this Camino only until Melide, instead of continueing on the Frances all the way to Santiago de Compostela? I've read that some people prefer to drive from Melide to Santiago instead of continie walking, and I'm just wondering why.

Thank you for your help!