LIVE from the Camino Camino do Mar by Mera

[Caminogoat]

I had been walking the Notrte, but had skipped a lot of segments after Deba. To me Irún to Deba is breathtakingly beautiful and exciting, I enjoy every step. But after Deba, I had walked only my favorite segments. I arrived at the Playa de Peñarronda (4 kilometers before Ribadeo) the day before yesterday. I have not been posting anything since the war between Israel and Palestinians broke out. I had walked feeling somber and sad. I have been and am praying for peace.

Yesterday, I started Camino do Mar. I will post my daily experiences in short sentences for those who never walked this Camino. It’s my first, too. My initial impression is that it is like walking between San Sebastián and Deba but on flat land. It is so beautiful and easy that I never took a break during the first 10 miles or so until I arrived in Rinlo. I used Wikiloc and the Google map. I don’t know if there are any exclusive Camino do Mar apps out there. Does anyone know? This albergue located right after crossing the bridge to Ribadeo is kind of a starting point. When I found a pension room with an ocean view (walked 16.56 miles from the Playa de Peñarronda). I stopped. The only downside is that there is no WiFi. I will post more photos tomorrow when I hopefully find a room with WiFi.

 

[Caminogoat]

Yesterday, there was no service until I reached Rinlo. I started from La playa de Peñarronda so it was about 10 miles for me. If you love the ocean, this is the trail where you can get plenty of it.

 

[Caminogoat]

The pension I stayed was clean but had a bare minimum, basic things only. The restaurant food was good. The view from the room was beautiful, but when I went to the beach, I saw a scary warning that made me put my shoes back on immediately.

 

[Caminogoat]

I started walking at 8 am but it was still dark. The sunrise happens around 8:30 here.

 

[Caminogoat]

Today’s route toward Burela was not as beautiful as yesterday’s. It was because I had to walk inland in a U shape, hugging the river. You can walk along the beach until you see Foz right across the ocean, but there is no ferry to cross you. Without a ferry, it is a long detour. A lot of paved road. A bit hilly at times. I tried to attach some photos but the WiFi is so slow that I gave it up. I quit a little bit before Burela, about 22 miles today.

 

[Corned Beef]

It's a beautiful camino and as it is one less populated than the Norte, you have time to appreciate the peace and the view. It's even better when the sun is out.

 

[Caminogoat]

I didn’t actually climb the rock to find out if the chair was comfortable and the view was worth it.

 

[Caminogoat]

Last night I ordered soup and a “small” steak. The waitress told me to order a“small” one instead of “regular “ one. She was right. Here is the photo of the “small” steak and soup. What’s up with that big bowl of soup? They do this in Cantabria and Galicia. You can have as much as you want from this huge bowl.

 

[Caminogoat]

Leaving Burela toward San Ciprian.

 

[Caminogoat]

Ways to San Ciprian.

 

[Caminogoat]

I have never picked anything from a tree or vine except some wild berries. BUT, this was different. A lone survivor from being harvested. All its compatriots are in a wine barrel somewhere. I said: “no more worries about being forgotten because I would love you to death”.

So juicy and sweet!

 

[Caminogoat]

Wild mint.

 

[Caminogoat]

As I was arriving in San Ciprian, I noticed a mass amount of housing complexes, which is rare in small towns in Spain.

 

[Caminogoat]

I struck a conversion with a local man. Among other things he said that the aluminum factory is polluting everything. One can see it’s huge chimney from miles away. I asked him if he meant the dark water in the river, but he said it’s in the air. In fact, I was noticing a strong smell resembling an electrical fire. The man said with a great sadness: “with a progress, pollution came”.

 

[Caminogoat]

Even with more than 40- minute walking, I couldn’t get away from the smell and I was feeling sick to my stomach. I called a cab and that transported me to lovely Viveiro within 20 minutes. The hotel had a lovely room, an Indonesian restaurant next door, and a laundromat across the street. What a welcome sight!

 

[Caminogoat]

The food was good, Viveiro is lovely.

 

[Caminogoat]

I almost died, happily, from this bottle of chili powder. They weren’t kidding about the heat it can generate. I loved it so much, I had to buy a bottle.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, Mera! I'm happy to follow along.

put my shoes back on immediately.

If these guys are the same as the ones in the Pacific, they pack a painful sting, but are not 'poisonous.' They just burn like crazy. As kids we used to pop the bubbles of the ones on the beach, and never got stung by the washed up ones - but in the water is another matter.

 

[Corned Beef]

You are making good progress. Viveiro is a lovely town with the river running through it. Shame about the weather which is moving northwards.

This was Viveiro on 3rd December last year. Much warmer I'd think

 

[Caminogoat]

You are making good progress. Viveiro is a lovely town with the river running through it. Shame about the weather which is moving northwards.

This was Viveiro on 3rd December last year. Much warmer I'd think

Yes, it has been raining on and off for the last 5 days. Did you use an app for this Camino? I didn’t find any. I am just wondering around on Wikiloc and Google.

 

[Corned Beef]

Yes, it has been raining on and off for the last 5 days. Did you use an app for this Camino? I didn’t find any. I am just wondering around on Wikiloc and Google.

I usually use OpenStreetMap but I can't see any specific routes past Viveiro. There is the Ruta del Cantábrico which criss crosses the other routes but that only goes as far as Ladrido. At Ladrido you could take the FEVE train to Ferrol. Ortigueira, a few miles further, has far more connections with Ferrol though.

Camino Natural de la Ruta del Cantábrico

Camino Natural de la Ruta del Cantábrico

www.mapa.gob.es

Ladrido/Ortigueira is a decision point. Past there the accomodation gets more difficult and the routes less well signposted. Perhaps the others who have done this route this year could jump in with some comments.

 

[Corned Beef]

Just going back to my notes, you can continue from Ortigueira on the Camino de Santo André de Teixido. Map is here but the accommodation issue remains. There is a very nice but pricey AirBnB in Santo André de Teixido.

Camiño do Mar - Camino a San Andrés de Teixido

caminosasanandresdeteixido.gal

When you get to Santo André de Teixido you can follow the Camino in reverse to Ferrol or Neda.

Camiños a Santo André de Teixido - Todas - Google My Maps

CAMIÑOS PRINCIPAIS: 1. Camiño Vello 2. GR 55 – Camiño de Santo André 3. Ruta dos Peiraos 4. Camiño dos Cantís 5. Camiño do Mar CAMIÑOS SECUNDARIOS A. Camiño Vello Alternativo B. Camiño Vello desde Santa Comba C. Camiño de Cedeira polo interior D. Camiño de Santiago dende Ferrol

www.google.com

 

[Caminogoat]

Reluctantly leaving the beautiful Viveiro.

 

[Caminogoat]

Walked variable surfaces. Today’s trail to O Vicedo was tranquil and beautiful. Especially the last 7 miles were so beautiful that I hoped to return someday again. Well that wish came true inadvertently so soon in the evening.

 

[Caminogoat]

Another temptation, but I did not give into it today.

 

[Caminogoat]

I took a break when I arrived in San Roman around 12:40 pm. It’s below that huge cross and right next to the beautiful beach on the above map that shows today’s trail.

 

[Caminogoat]

I left without a breakfast this morning thinking I will get lunch somewhere. Guess what? It’s a rural area with not much to begin with. On top of that all the restaurants in the vicinity were closed, their regular off day. I survived on candies. As I arrived in my final destination around 4 pm, O Vicedo, I had a sinking feeling. The town looked abandoned. No one was around and restaurants looked permanently closed. I started calling hotels and pensions listed on Google. They all said they were closed for two weeks. A lot of places in Spain close for a couple of weeks right after the big holiday on 10/12, the day they celebrate finding America. They claim Spaniards, not Columbus, found America because Spain funded the discovery mission. I found one apartment but they refused to rent it to me just for one night. I found one hotel in San Roman. It’s by the beach that you see on the map above, 8 miles back where I rested around 12:40 pm. Furthermore, it’s in the area where all the restaurants were closed. I had to wait for a store to wake up from the siesta, usually at 5 pm, bought a bunch of foods and called a cab who also needed some time to wake up from her siesta.

 

[VNwalking]

Another temptation, but I did not give into it today.

Wow. Kiwifruit!

Furthermore, it’s in the area where all the restaurants were closed

Oh, geeeeeze.
I hope you got enough to eat in the end, Mera. As well as some food to carry forward.

 

[Caminogoat]

I sat by my backpack waiting for my cab driver to wake up. After being on the road for two weeks with just 2 sets of clothes, by now I look semi homeless. The store patrons kept looking at me as they go in and out, wondering whether they should offer me some food or not. So I stood up and started taking photos.

 

[Caminogoat]

The hotel was a brand new. Lovely and impeccable. I was the only guest in this 14-room boutique hotel. The owner said I could pick any room I wanted for the same price, 85 Euros. After seeing 7 rooms up and down the stairs, I picked this room with a balcony on the second floor.

 

[Caminogoat]

Now I am right back to where I was 4 hours ago looking up that same St. Roman Cross, Prepared my dinner and sat down thinking “ All’s Well That End’s Well”!

 

[Caminogoat]

I woke up yesterday with a tooth/gum pain and my left cheek was slightly swollen. Driven by a guilt, I thought of the grapes I took (a.k.a.stealing) the other day. I ate them without washing: perhaps they were the Grapes of Wrath!
I immediately googled for a dentist in the area. The nearest city where I could find a dentist was Viveiro. I called 5 dentists but couldn’t get a same-day appointment. I took a cab to one of the offices thinking it would be hard to say no to person’s face. To my big surprise, when I explained my situation, the dentist slammed the door on my face, didn’t even bother to say “no way” or “over my dead body”. I am not sure if she was angry because I showed up without an appointment or she thought I was asking for a free treatment. Or there’s something wrong with my face. I walked out thinking some highly educated professionals (regardless of their nationalities) are less sympathetic toward others than general Spanish public I encounter during the Camino. I started calling again and one told me to come in. Another big surprise when I got there was that this office was right across from the hotel I stayed. Do you remember the one that had an Indonesian restaurant on the right and a laundromat across? The office and the laundromat was physically joined together. Wow, the beautiful hotel, not the Camino, provides! After an x-ray, the doctor said my gum infection was not a serious one. He drained it (too much detail?) and prescribed antibiotics. I checked into the same lovely hotel I enjoyed staying so much, and spent the rest of the day walking around the city end to end. Two days ago, I reluctantly left this lovely city without getting to know it better. Now my tooth granted my wish come true. All’s Well That End’s Well! By the way, I hope not but if you are ever in need of a dentist in or near Viveiro, here is the name of the dentist. I have to go back for a follow up today. After that I am traveling to Santiago, leaving the Camino do Mar to another time. It’s been raining for a week every single day (on top of that it’s extremely windy now) since Ribadeo and I need a change of scenery. Perhaps spend a couple of days eating Korean food in Santiago and then head out to Muxia. Thank you!

 

[Corned Beef]

Glad you got your tooth sorted and you've probably made the right decision to take it easy. FEVE will take you to Ferrol where you can get a train to SdC. It's a very pleasant journey especially when the alternative is getting soaked through.

This Camino is underdeveloped as caminos go so it takes a bit more pre-planning if you want to go past Viveiro. But I think it is worth it.

 

[Caminogoat]

Glad you got your tooth sorted and you've probably made the right decision to take it easy. FEVE will take you to Ferrol where you can get a train to SdC. It's a very pleasant journey especially when the alternative is getting soaked through.

This Camino is underdeveloped as caminos go so it takes a bit more pre-planning if you want to go past Viveiro. But I think it is worth it.

Yes, you are exactly right about everything that’s going on here. Especially with hotels closing for 2 weeks, it will be difficult. Thank you!

 

[Canche]

I had been walking the Notrte, but had skipped a lot of segments after Deba. To me Irún to Deba is breathtakingly beautiful and exciting, I enjoy every step. But after Deba, I had walked only my favorite segments. I arrived at the Playa de Peñarronda (4 kilometers before Ribadeo) the day before yesterday. I have not been posting anything since the war between Israel and Palestinians broke out. I had walked feeling somber and sad. I have been and am praying for peace.

Yesterday, I started Camino do Mar. I will post my daily experiences in short sentences for those who never walked this Camino. It’s my first, too. My initial impression is that it is like walking between San Sebastián and Deba but on flat land. It is so beautiful and easy that I never took a break during the first 10 miles or so until I arrived in Rinlo. I used Wikiloc and the Google map. I don’t know if there are any exclusive Camino do Mar apps out there. Does anyone know? This albergue located right after crossing the bridge to Ribadeo is kind of a starting point. When I found a pension room with an ocean view (walked 16.56 miles from the Playa de Peñarronda). I stopped. The only downside is that there is no WiFi. I will post more photos tomorrow when I hopefully find a room with WiFi.

I look forward to your posts as I hope to do that Camino next spring.

 

[Canche]

Yes, it has been raining on and off for the last 5 days. Did you use an app for this Camino? I didn’t find any. I am just wondering around on Wikiloc and Google.

Try Gronze

 

[Corned Beef]

Try Gronze

There doesn't seem to be a separate section for this Camino but some of the comments there led to this

Asociación Camino del Mar - Concello a Concello

CONCELLO A CONCELLO - 2023

www.asocaminodelmar.com

It's in Spanish but you can right click for a translation. There has been recent growth in interest and if you are a foodie, there is a special annual pilgrimage. There is an email address if you want to sign up for details for 2024.

Asociación Camino del Mar - Camino Gastronomico

IV Edición Camino Gastronómico del Mar. Realizaremos tramos de las etapas que componen el Camino del Mar. Al finalizar esos tramos se realizará una degustación de recetas gastronómicas de productos del mar, cada día serán dos preparaciones. Con esta actividad se pretende conjugar distintos valores

www.asocaminodelmar.com

 

[Caminogoat]

I look forward to your posts as I hope to do that Camino next spring.

I had a medical emergency when I reached O Vicedo. I had to go back to Viveiro for treatments. Spent 2 days there and then came to Santiago. I will stay here for a week or so before I fly back home. I have been doing my own Camino in and around Santiago, Wikiloc has many lovely trails in and around Santiago including some parts of Camino Muxia and Finistere. My observation of Camino do Mare: very lovely scenery, lovely locals, not well marked, no dedicated app available but Wikiloc will do, not much Camino infrastructure but hotels are readily available if you can avoid that 2-week closedowns after the big holiday. Hotels were booked until 10/15 and then they close down for their own vacations. It rains a lot in October and November. I got rained on every day for a week. Incidentally, if you pronounce “O vicedo” it sounds like “even if the rain leeks into” . I am a Korean

 

[VNwalking]

If the weather's improving, you might consider going out to walk up Pico Sacra. Near enough to Santiago that there's public transport to where you walk from - Lestedo, on the Sanabres/Invierno. On a fine day I'd be tempted to bus out, walk to the summit, then come back to Santiago along the Camino. It's one of the nicest entries to the city of all the caminos.

Directions from a blog account of the walk:

From the central bus station in Santiago de Compostela, go to the Castromil ticket office and ask for the next departure for Lestedo—it shouldn’t cost more than a couple of euros. Go downstairs to the main hall and hop on the blue-and-yellow Monbus bus (same company, different name), ride for about half an hour (watching the signs carefully), and get off on the side of the highway in Lestedo, a parish of the Boqueixón municipality.

From the bus stop, it’s not hard to find your way—just look up for the mountain and start hiking, generally in a northerly direction (to the left from the highway). There are a couple of signs here and there that will direct you up.

 

[Caminogoat]

If the weather's improving, you might consider going out to walk up Pico Sacra. Near enough to Santiago that there's public transport to where you walk from - Lestedo, on the Sanabres/Invierno. On a fine day I'd be tempted to bus out, walk to the summit, then come back to Santiago along the Camino. It's one of the nicest entries to the city of all the caminos.

Directions from a blog account of the walk:

That actually was my plan for tomorrow. For sure I will do this all the more now. Thanks

 

[Caminogoat]

If the weather's improving, you might consider going out to walk up Pico Sacra. Near enough to Santiago that there's public transport to where you walk from - Lestedo, on the Sanabres/Invierno. On a fine day I'd be tempted to bus out, walk to the summit, then come back to Santiago along the Camino. It's one of the nicest entries to the city of all the caminos.

Directions from a blog account of the walk:

I agree with you. I did that part in reverse after visiting Mercado de Abastos de Santiago.

 

[VNwalking]

That actually was my plan for tomorrow. For sure I will do this all the more now. Thanks

Wow, fantastic (I hope that link worked...)! Pics and let us know how it went, pretty please. Hoping your tooth feels better....

 

[peregrina2000]

I will stay here for a week or so before I fly back home. I have been doing my own Camino in and around Santiago, Wikiloc has many lovely trails in and around Santiago including some parts of Camino Muxia and Finistere.

I’m sorry to learn that you had to cut your camino short. Your accounts are always so fun to read! But you seem to have taken this all in stride, good for you, @Mera.

I can suggest two short walks in Santiago itself. One is the Sarela path, which you get to by following the Muxia route till you cross the little river. At that point, the camino goes left, and you go right. It’s a little green oasis a stone’s throw from busy roads and apartment buildings.

The other would be to walk up to the Cidade de Cultura, which is a complex of buildings made of many different materials, with many different angles and curves. My first reaction was that it would be an awfully good spot for skateboarders! Sometimes there are interesting exhibits in one of the buildings. It’s at the top of a hill and one way to get there starts near the church at Sar (also worth a visit, IMHO).

Enjoy your time in Santiago.

 

[Caminogoat]

I’m sorry to learn that you had to cut your camino short. Your accounts are always so fun to read! But you seem to have taken this all in stride, good for you, @Mera.

I can suggest two short walks in Santiago itself. One is the Sarela path, which you get to by following the Muxia route till you cross the little river. At that point, the camino goes left, and you go right. It’s a little green oasis a stone’s throw from busy roads and apartment buildings.

The other would be to walk up to the Cidade de Cultura, which is a complex of buildings made of many different materials, with many different angles and curves. My first reaction was that it would be an awfully good spot for skateboarders! Sometimes there are interesting exhibits in one of the buildings. It’s at the top of a hill and one way to get there starts near the church at Sar (also worth a visit, IMHO).

Enjoy your time in Santiago.

Yes, I saw these on Wikiloc. Thank you for always being so kind. I always feel like you, VNwalking, and a few others have my back. Thanks

 

[Caminogoat]

I arrived in Madrid on 11/07. I walked some of my favorite spots on Norte before continuing to Camino do Mar from where I left off last year. Does anyone remember Getaria, where restaurants have huge BBQ grills outside and grill everything? I looked forward to eating there, so I made a mad dash from Madrid to Getaria via ALSA (33 Euros with a discount) and taxi (50 Euros from San Sebastián). Sadly, I arrived there on a Thursday when all restaurants were closed I only managed to get some Pinchos at a couple of bars that stayed open. I walked from Getaria to Deba, then Laredo to Noja. I visited an interesting place in Santoña. See these photos.

 

[Caminogoat]

Plaza de Toros in Santoña is worth the visit. It is not very far from where you get off the boat. Turn left, and you will get there in 10 minutes. This magnificent-looking bullfighter was injured on the day the photo was taken and died the next day.

 

[Caminogoat]

A female bullfighter.

 

[Caminogoat]

The mostly paved - road walking from O Vicedo to O Porto Espasante was not that great, but the town of O Porto Espasante was delightful. The town’s only open restaurant served delicious food. The town shared a pet pig named Antón with whom I shared my grapes. A native artist painted houses and residents.

 

[Caminogoat]

Here is Antón.

 

[Caminogoat]

Painted house.

 

[Caminogoat]

More here. It appears I can post only one photo at a time.

 

[Caminogoat]

Let me tell you what happened before I reached San André Teixido. I woke up to a pouring rain. The hotel advised me not to walk between O Porto Espesante and Cariño on a rainy day because I would be walking mainly on the road where cars couldn't see me well due to the heavy rain. They didn't need to persuade me too hard. I hopped into a taxi to Cariño. When I got out of the cab, it was only drizzling, so I headed toward San André Teixido. It was beautiful up to Cabo Ortega (a bit of a detour to see this lighthouse). Then, the trail became steep. The bigger problem was strong winds (I understood the meaning of “Viento del Norte”). I have never encountered such strong winds on any of the Caminos. I understood why there were so many windmills. If you hiked up so much that the windmills ate below your feet, that is quite steep. Remember the CF before Psmpalona? It was like that. It was so cold and windy, my hands were so frozen I couldn't take any photos. Nor did I even think about it. I just wanted reach the town. By the way, I have not met any pilgrims since I started.

 

[Dave]

I missed your first stretch on the Mar, but I've enjoyed catching up just now. If you're still hunting for gps tracks, mine are updated and available through Cicerone:

Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar guide - To Santiago, Spain

Guidebook to walking the Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar pilgrim routes through northwest Spain. From Ferrol, A Coruna or Ribadeo to Santiago de Compostela.…

www.cicerone.co.uk

Scroll down toward the bottom and click on the Downloads tab. They're organized by stage and you'll see multiple route options included for each.

Dave

 

[Caminogoat]

I missed your first stretch on the Mar, but I've enjoyed catching up just now. If you're still hunting for gps tracks, mine are updated and available through Cicerone:

Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar guide - To Santiago, Spain

Guidebook to walking the Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar pilgrim routes through northwest Spain. From Ferrol, A Coruna or Ribadeo to Santiago de Compostela.…

www.cicerone.co.uk

Scroll down toward the bottom and click on the Downloads tab. They're organized by stage and you'll see multiple route options included for each.

Dave

Hi Dave,
I bought your book in 2023 and studied before the Csmino. Thanks!

 

[Dave]

It's funny--the last time I was on the Mar, it was near the windmills en route to Teixido that I encountered my only pilgrims of the trip. Three of us, all walking individually, all happened to converge at the viewpoint there at the same moment. I hope you come across one or two as well. Giulia, the host at Caborredondo, is out there, but she may be ahead of you.

Are you planning to stay on the coast all the way around to Ferrol, or to take the direct, inland approach?

 

[Caminogoat]

It was freezing around the windmills.
I like to walk along the coast. I am heading out to Valdoviño today. Then Ferrol, Miño, A Coruña, Arteixo, Malpica, Muxia. I might end it in Muxia or continue to Fisterra, Ezari, Muros, Noia, then Santiago.

 

[Caminogoat]

From what I have read, San André de Teixido is arguably one of the most important pilgrim sites next to Santiago. It is a tiny place with 30 residents, one open restaurant, and one Casa Rural, all adorned by the lovely Ocean view.

 

[Caminogoat]

Some legends.

 

[Caminogoat]

Yesterday, I got stuck in the mud on my way to Cedeira. My left leg was deep in the mud, and I couldn't extract myself due to the weight of the mud. I called 112, but they said they couldn't come because they didn't know where to find me. I had no idea that the mud trail could be so deep or that the mud could weigh so much. Of course, I didn't plan on slipping into it. Many thoughts went through my mind; it was comforting that I gave instructions to my family in case of my death. But, I was a bit embarrassed at the idea of a newspaper article about a pilgrim undone by the mud. You all would have read about it.

 

[VNwalking]

You all would have read about it.

Haha and now we all have. Glad you escaped, @Caminogoat !
Buen camino...May it be firmer underfoot.

 

[Caminogoat]

While I was contemplating how I could best die less embarrassed in the mountain where there was no address or a waymark (like leaving a note about how it happened and apologizing to the finders for their trouble), a log collector (I don't know what the official title is) came by with a massive truck. He pulled me out, placed a plastic sheet on the passenger seat, drove me to Cedeira, and very sensibly dropped me off in front of a commercial laundromat. Can you see the mud mark on my left leg?

 

[Caminogoat]

I tried to give him some money, but he refused. I took his address to send him a Christmas card. I spent next two hours in the laundromat, but I absolutely was not complaining.

 

[Caminogoat]

I checked into a cozy little hotel and went to a restaurant. I was having difficulty eating clams with a fork and knife. I am a Korean. We use chopsticks for these. Finally, after observing me with pain in their expressions, a couple next table yelled at me simultaneously: “Use your fingers”. Really? Is that allowed? I happily did. So, you all know now, if you are in Galicia next time, use your fingers to eat clams.

 

[Caminogoat]

Even though I asked with faint hope, the restaurant gave me some chili sauce and chili powder, which is rare in Spain. I was glad I asked. Being a proper Korean, I instantly turned the salad into a makeshift Kimchi by adding vinegar and salt. After a scare, it was a happy ending

 

[Caminogoat]

Haha and now we all have. Glad you escaped, @Caminogoat !
Buen camino...May it be firmer underfoot.

Now, come to think of it, the truck driver was the one who made the mud trail so deep with his huge truck.

 

[VNwalking]

Now, come to think of it, the truck driver was the one who made the mud trail so deep with his huge truck.

Yup. Amazing he could get through it, seeing how deep it was.

 

[Corned Beef]

I know the "Camino provides" but a 38 tonne truck as a taxi, was surely not on the list.

Enjoying your updates.

 

[Caminogoat]

Yup. It's amazing he could get through it, seeing how deep it

I am 5.2 feet tall. My thigh is probably 2 feet above the ground, which isn't much. The truck tires reached my waste. The moral of the story is: if you get this uncontrollable urge for a mud bath, hoping that will give you beautiful skin, make sure there is someone with ropes nearby to pull you out. The mud felt like a cauldron of Elmer’s glue.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Many thoughts went through my mind; it was comforting that I gave instructions to my family in case of my death.

I sure hope you told your family about the incident "after" you extracted your leg from the mud and not beforehand.

 

[Caminogoat]

Yes, I did it after. Drying hiking boots in high heat at the laundromat and exposing them to a hairdryer for a long time at the hotel damaged the soles. When I first put them on, they felt slightly bumpy. After walking for three hours toward Valdovño, I had three blisters. It was a big surprise because I haven't had one since 2016. The enslaved and maltreated boots now had an uneven soles with a revenge-seeking soul. I hopped on a bus, thinking I would go to Valdoviño, but when I got there, the town looked rather sleepy, so I stayed on the bus to continue to Ferrol. I am heading out to Minños this morning, but I am unsure how much I can walk.

 

[Caminogoat]

I enjoyed being in Ferrol. I walked around, saw cool things, and ate roasted chestnuts.

 

[Caminogoat]

I departed for Miño early the next morning. Instead of following the usual Camino arrows, I took a quiet road leading to the bridge. I had virtually walked this bridge many times on my iFit. Next time I do, I can bring out the smell and the sound I experienced.

 

[Caminogoat]

I saw these huge “somethings “ being built. I don't know what they are for, but I would like to know.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I enjoyed being in Ferrol. I walked around, saw cool things, and ate roasted chestnuts.

I love those beautiful artistic shells! I missed seeing them in Ferrol, but would have bought one as a momento.
I looked for roasted chestnuts while walking, but never came across any being sold this time. I did boil a few that I picked up on the ground, at an Airbnb to try them last fall, but I'm sure roasting is a much better way to prepare them.

 

[Caminogoat]

Things I saw in Fene. I heard they had a mural drawing contest, and the Violonist won first prize, and the other one won the second place.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I saw these huge “somethings “ being built. I don't know what they are for, but I would like to know.

We saw those, too. My son (a Mechanical Engineer) suggested they were possibly poles ready for use on off shore wind turbines.

 

[Caminogoat]

I visited the Humor Museum in Fene. I guess not many people visit there. The museum didn't take it with humor; it had all the lights out with no one around. The door was open, so I went in. Eventually, someone ( who seemed like internet surfing in the backroom) ( or he could have been doing some paperwork) (or looking for another job) showed up and opened the circuit breaker to turn the lights on. It was worth my detour.

 

[Caminogoat]

This one was cute.

 

[Caminogoat]

Ferrol to Miño was long but steady and easy. I always love it when I encounter these lovely trees wearing fall colors. The image stays in my mind with such comforting feelings. It looks like one of Van Gogh’s early works.

 

[Caminogoat]

The hotel I always stay at (Hotel Crisol) in Miño was closed for the winter. Luckily, Hotel La Terraza was open. It’s in the middle of the town, so it helped me with my next long segment, from Miño to A Coruña; I will post more later. I am three days behind.

 

[Caminogoat]

I enjoyed being in Ferrol. I walked around, saw cool things, and ate roasted chestnuts.

We saw those, too. My son (a Mechanical Engineer) suggested they were possibly poles ready for use on off shore wind turbines.

Could be.

I thought they were too heavy to be a part of the airplane. Perhaps for a ship? Or a part of Chicago's deep tunnel? I remember reading about Chicago building a deep tunnel to prevent sewer back-up. Someone ( oh, I'm glad it wasn't me) punctured something relating to the Chicago River in the process. All the downtown buildings were flooded. They were finding fish swimming in the building basement I often wondered what happened to the person who did it.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@Caminogoat, I seemed to have only discovered your "Live" thread a few days ago, but am really enjoying your postings and interesting pictures!

 

[Caminogoat]

Thanks! I don't know how to post “live,” so I just added to last year's posting. I'm writing more for my record to read back later, and let my family know I am doing okay.

 

[Caminogoat]

I looked up Wikiloc for a walk from Miño to A Coruña, but the routes all included walking N651 at some segments, which I would never do. Finally, I talked with some locals and found a way to avoid it: crossing a bridge. One can follow the Camino arrows toward Betanzos until they reach this Albergue. Then, they turn right (in the opposite direction from the usual Camino). Then walk toward the bridge (I am including the name and photo of the bridge so you can use the Googlemsp.)

 

[Caminogoat]

The bridge crossing was a bit scary for me. It's like crossing the bridge to Ribadeo. The pedestrian path is very narrow, and the guardrail is low. I tried not to look down by covering the river view with my hiking umbrella. After the bridge, turn right and follow AC 164 to Sada. As you can see from the capture, you are not on N651or AP9 at any time.

 

[Caminogoat]

It was about 8 miles from the Hotel La Terraza in Miño to Sada. I had a nice lunch at this restaurant. I went up the side street on the left side of this restaurant, and I was on AC 163, then eventually on AC 162 toward A Coruña. Although the road was paved all the way, traffic was very light.

 

[Caminogoat]

There is a place named after me, Mera. I visited the Town of Mera, Beach Mera, and the lighthouse, Faro Mera. In Mera, pretty much all the businesses are name Mera something.

 

[Caminogoat]

When I reached Mera, I had walked 16 miles. It was still a long way to A Coruña when I saw a bakery—longing for energy-giving sweets. I went in, but the bakery was closing, and she had nothing left. Very disappointed, I asked her if she had a number for a taxi. She said she had it, but it was Sunday, and the taxista was resting. Then she said she could make it happen. She called someone and barked orders. The taxista, her husband, showed up within 5 minutes What luck that was. I had a comfortable ride to A Coruña.

 

[Caminogoat]

I saw this house near Playa de Mera decorated with a million seashells. The 86-year-old owner said her father asked the whole family to gather shells to decorate the house, which took many years. How special it must be to live in a house like that.

 

[Caminogoat]

I spent two days in A Coruña. I visited Torre de Hércules in 2021, so this time I visited Castelo de Santa Cruz, an old Castillo surrounded by a beautiful views. They have set up telescopes to do bird watching. I think I saw a comorans sitting on rocks. I exited and turned to the right, and walked all the way to Plays de Christina, where there is a bridge to enter A Coruña. It was a joyful day filled with lovely views and cool weather.

 

[Caminogoat]

The rest of the segments I planned based on Google were long and complicated. Locals said they saw a few pilgrims during the summer but hadn't seen one for months, obviously for good reasons. I quit when I reached Muros and hopped on a bus to Santiago.

 

[Caminogoat]

Santiago is getting ready for the Christmas.

 

[Caminogoat]

I took a free walking tour ( voluntary tips are expected) and learned many new things. For example, did you know these horses are half horse and half fish? What is the story of these two ladies? You would have seen them in the park near the bus stop. The story below about the ladies is from andaspain.com:

The Two Marias of Santiago de Compostela​

The Two Marias​

The small local park in Santiago de Compostela is called Alameda Park and is located just past the old town. Upon entering, you are greeted by a statue of two ladies. The statues are replicas of the Spanish sisters Maruxa and Coralia Fanino Ricart. Both ladies are brightly dressed and offer an open hand in a warm gesture. However, their faces have a solemn undertone representing their troubling story and how they became the Two Marias of Alameda Park.

History​

The sisters were raised in a family of 13 siblings. During the regime of Franco, three of the brothers had an active role in the Confederacion Nacional del Trabajo. This was an organisation fighting against the sovereignty of the Spanish general. The story goes, the brothers were arrested and detained in the early 1950s. They experienced consistent emotional abuse, torture and excessive physical brutality. Upon release, a brother passed due to injury whilst the other two went into hiding. The family was consistently interrogated as to their whereabouts as well as persecuted for harbouring fugitives. The impact of this led to the death of the women’s parents and many of the siblings.

The sisters, who later became the Two Marias, were both trained as seamstresses. However, because of the pressures and attention on the family, they were often unable to find work. Many of the locals were known to donate food and other items to the women. In the early 1960s, it was reported that a storm tore down the roof of their home. To help the family, the town collected 250,00 pesetas in donations. At that time, it was enough money for the ladies to purchase a new flat.

The Park​

Along with another sister who later died, the ladies would habitually enter Alameda Park in Santiago de Compostela at 2 PM. They would be dressed in bright clothing, high heels and even brighter make-up. The ladies would gallivant around and flirt with the much younger university students. Many locals suggest the women experienced poor mental health due to the trauma which led to this exuberant behaviour. Whilst others thought the women were simply trying to find some enjoyment in their troublesome life. The women were regularly seen until the 1980s when Maruxa passed. Coralia left the town of Santiago de Compostela and died three years later.

The Statues​

The statues were laid in the local park in Santiago de Compostela by sculptor Cesar Lambera in 1994 in memory of the two women. Throughout the years a coat of fresh paint has given the ladies new and brighter clothing, truly representing the legend of the Two Marias.

Whilst many locals depict the Two Marias as unwell and flirtatious; others view their lives and statues as a symbol of the fight against oppression and inequality. Following your Camino de Santiago, if you have any steps left in you, go and visit the Two Marias and decide for yourself. Whether you see the ladies as freedom fighters or tarty older women; the ladies definitely continue to impact the modern day town of Santiago de Compostela!.

 

[Caminogoat]

I heard the Benedictine nuns bake the best-tasting Tarta de Santiago and other cookies. I bought so many that I had to buy a new carry-on. I never check in my backpack for fear of losing it, but this time, it will have to be checked in, now second fiddle to my tartas, with which I intend to appease my husband, who had been watering my plants, fearing dire consequences if I find them not in robust health.

 

[Caminogoat]

I had a good time. Even becoming a stick in the mud and calling an emergency service for help now seems like a fun memory. Thank you for reading my post. I wish you all a beautiful holiday.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Thanks for posting, I’ve enjoyed following along