- Time of past OR future Camino
- some and then more. see my signature.
After I rested for a day and a half, waiting for my walkingbuddy to arrive, we started walking on the 11th of September.
She also walked with me and another friend last year on the Ingles and this year she asked me to arrange to have her backpack transferred. I would walk with my pack.
Seeing I prearranged all our stops it was also easy to prebook the packtransport.
There were some issues with paying by bankcard but it got easily resolved with a swift communication via Whatsapp.
I walked this route already in March 2016 ( during the terrorist atttacks on Brussels airport ) so this was a Camino in summer.
We were so lucky with the weather, aside from some light drops on one day it stayed dry and clear.
Not going to post much about the landscape. I made lots of pictures and I will post them on the daily pictures thread.
First day : Santiago to Negreira. 21.50 km.
My walkingbuddy is a walkingmachine. Since Covid began she has been walking daily. At least ten km per day so she is well trained. Together with her only having a daypack and her natural quicker pace we already decided to follow our own rhytm and we should meet at whatever cafe / bar was open for a rest.
I had kneepain that day although the differences in height were less than on my Sanabrés. But I blame walking in my Ecco sandals on the day off in Santiago. I should have kept my walking boots on.
A varied walk with the stop at Ponte Maceira as a highlight. I had to keep my pace low and steady , seeing the going down was extremly painful for my knee.
I also met more pilgrims this first day than I met on my whole Sanabrés! It felt crowded though nothing compared from the numbers I heard were coming in from Sarria or Tui.
We made it to Negreira where we stayed in a private room at Albergue San José and we shared a bathroom with others.
Gorgeous garden.
We had dinner at wonderful Casa Barquiero. I follow them on social media and I can only praise their finer cuisine.
Second day : Negreira to A Picota. For me 25 km and then pick up by car. Walkingbuddy walked 30km.
Luckily the kneepain got resolved after a decent night sleep. Vey happy.
Alot of tarmac today but a more gradual walk. Never felt I overdid it. We also had two short and one longer breaks which helped.
So after 25 km I called the hotel where we stayed to pick me up and walkingbuddy walked an alternative route for five km. Very well signposted wit green flechas and mojones.
We stayed at Casa Jurjo and one of the extras they have is the free pickup. They renovated the place and we had a huge room for ourselves.
Their kitchen is not that great. But they are the only game in town so I guess I should not be too picky!
Day three : A Picota to Cee. 26 km.
The most gorgeous walk of this particular Camino.
So back finding the green arrows and mojons and four km further we were back on the regular Camino in Olveiroa.
A chapel and an Ermita. A big group of horseriders on their way to a local Romeria.
Steep downhill and then the first glimpse of water!
We also encountered a statue of a mythical creature while walking. The Vakner.
We stayed at pension Beiramar in Cee , almost on the border with Corcubion. The most expensive of all our nights, but maybe because it was a Friday?
We ate at As Baleas, which seems to be small chain seeing they also have a resto in Finisterre.
Actually quite decent food!
Day four: Cee to Finisterre. 11km.
An easy walk with alot of going up and down. The Ocean that plays hide and seek and always a eucalyptus forest.
Walkingbuddy walked to the lighttower ( I was doing some washing ) and said it was sheer madness because of an event from Audi. Audi everwhere. No room to walk and dangerous situations. So I thought to skip the walk. I remembered it from eight years ago as a very quiet and intimate place . Better to keep it that way.
We stayed at Hotel Langosteira. Ok but nothing more.
Finisterre felt enormously touristy and prices reflect this.
And it is quite dead after 9.30 pm. Weird to see how all bars seem to close at that time!
Day five : Finisterre to Muxia. 28 km for my walkingbuddy and 14 km for me to Lires and then taxi to Muxia.
I started my day grumpy. Nothing open for breakfast on a Sunday at 8 am. Though finally I found an albergue that served something.
Gorgeous sunrise!
An open church, thanks to Italian volunteers that also volunteer at the Chapel of San Pedro Martir on the third etapa.
I was nurturing a cold and together with some hormonal issues I decided it was not wise of me to continue after Lires. So taxi it was! Some misunderstanding with two different drivers, someone elso who thought they helped me out but made things even more complicated. But I made it to Muxia albeit tired and confused by all the miscommunication.
Muxia had a BIG fiesta going on . Oh boy! Loud fancy fair, music groups, fireworks and lots of drunk people.
And Muxia was described as the quiet village.
So we immersed ourselves in the fancy fair ( all local restaurants were closed to give the temporary stallholders freeplay ) and had quite decent patatas fritas. And yup, as Belgians we are quite particular about our frites!
We stayed at Hostal Habitat II. Clean and airy. No reception so you have to walk to the main hotel and get the entrancecode.
But then we walked to the Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca. What a joy! I felt this more as the end of my pilgrimage than when I reached the cathedral at Santiago.
Was it always easy to walk with someone else? No , not all the time. I am more of an introvert whereas my walkingpartner prefers a bit more entertainment. I do not mind sitting alone somewhere whereas she prefers to be in company.
She is very good in being in the moment whereas I am more cautious or thinking of different scenarios so I am grateful for her positivity.
We feel the same about society, share values and find respect for other cultures very important.
We decided beforehand to split every bill in two ( except of course personal stuff bought in supermarket etc ). Sometimes she would have two wines and I only one but another time I would have a dessert and she would not .
When walking with someone else than your lifepartner I think the issue of spending money is important to get straight before you start walking.
I guess she must have sighed when she saw me taking another picture of yet another stone cross and I had to smile when she was checking her Runkeeper.
But we can be quiet together which is always a good sign.
I was happy for her she was able to see the Botafumeiro.
This was more a walking vacation for me, whereas the Sanabrés felt like a pilgrimage. For me it was all about the numbers of pilgrims.
Next Caminos will be on quieter routes and I do not need to end in Santiago ( anymore ).
Will I walk with other people again for days in a row? Yes, but it will be more likely Scotland, France or Austria.
We ended with a wonderful lunch at O Sendeiro in Santiago de Compostela! Book a table and you will be so pleasantly surprised!
She also walked with me and another friend last year on the Ingles and this year she asked me to arrange to have her backpack transferred. I would walk with my pack.
Seeing I prearranged all our stops it was also easy to prebook the packtransport.
There were some issues with paying by bankcard but it got easily resolved with a swift communication via Whatsapp.
I walked this route already in March 2016 ( during the terrorist atttacks on Brussels airport ) so this was a Camino in summer.
We were so lucky with the weather, aside from some light drops on one day it stayed dry and clear.
Not going to post much about the landscape. I made lots of pictures and I will post them on the daily pictures thread.
First day : Santiago to Negreira. 21.50 km.
My walkingbuddy is a walkingmachine. Since Covid began she has been walking daily. At least ten km per day so she is well trained. Together with her only having a daypack and her natural quicker pace we already decided to follow our own rhytm and we should meet at whatever cafe / bar was open for a rest.
I had kneepain that day although the differences in height were less than on my Sanabrés. But I blame walking in my Ecco sandals on the day off in Santiago. I should have kept my walking boots on.
A varied walk with the stop at Ponte Maceira as a highlight. I had to keep my pace low and steady , seeing the going down was extremly painful for my knee.
I also met more pilgrims this first day than I met on my whole Sanabrés! It felt crowded though nothing compared from the numbers I heard were coming in from Sarria or Tui.
We made it to Negreira where we stayed in a private room at Albergue San José and we shared a bathroom with others.
Gorgeous garden.
We had dinner at wonderful Casa Barquiero. I follow them on social media and I can only praise their finer cuisine.
Albergue San Jose
www.alberguesanjose.es
Restaurante - Restaurante Casa Barqueiro
Cocina tradicional, de platos que reflejan los mejores sabores de Galicia. La proximidad del mar y el buen trato en los fogones es nuestra manera de crear sensaciones únicas.
casabarqueiro.es
Second day : Negreira to A Picota. For me 25 km and then pick up by car. Walkingbuddy walked 30km.
Luckily the kneepain got resolved after a decent night sleep. Vey happy.
Alot of tarmac today but a more gradual walk. Never felt I overdid it. We also had two short and one longer breaks which helped.
So after 25 km I called the hotel where we stayed to pick me up and walkingbuddy walked an alternative route for five km. Very well signposted wit green flechas and mojones.
We stayed at Casa Jurjo and one of the extras they have is the free pickup. They renovated the place and we had a huge room for ourselves.
Hotel Mazaricos, Hotel Olveiroa, Camino de Santiago Fisterra. Maroñas. Mazaricos
Hotel ubicado en Mazaricos. Segunda etapa del Camino a Finisterre,: - Negreira (Pazo do Coton) - Casa Jurjo: 28´760 km - Casa Jurjo - Cee: 23,5 Km. playa de Carnota y Ezaro.
www.casajurjo.com
Their kitchen is not that great. But they are the only game in town so I guess I should not be too picky!
Day three : A Picota to Cee. 26 km.
The most gorgeous walk of this particular Camino.
So back finding the green arrows and mojons and four km further we were back on the regular Camino in Olveiroa.
A chapel and an Ermita. A big group of horseriders on their way to a local Romeria.
Steep downhill and then the first glimpse of water!
We also encountered a statue of a mythical creature while walking. The Vakner.
The Jacobean Legend of the Vákner
We have spoken on many occasions about the cultural heritage of our country, specifically that surrounding the Autonomous Community of Galicia. Most of the… Read more
www.letsteacheurope-erasmus.site
We stayed at pension Beiramar in Cee , almost on the border with Corcubion. The most expensive of all our nights, but maybe because it was a Friday?
Pensión Beiramar: alojamiento y turismo en Cee-Costa da Morte-Galicia-España
Pensión ubicada en la villa de Cee, Costa de la Muerte, cerca del Cabo de Finisterre y la cascada del Ézaro. Alojamiento y habitaciones para vacaciones familiares, grupos…
www.pensionbeiramar.com
We ate at As Baleas, which seems to be small chain seeing they also have a resto in Finisterre.
Actually quite decent food!
The Jacobean Legend of the Vákner
We have spoken on many occasions about the cultural heritage of our country, specifically that surrounding the Autonomous Community of Galicia. Most of the… Read more
www.letsteacheurope-erasmus.site
Day four: Cee to Finisterre. 11km.
An easy walk with alot of going up and down. The Ocean that plays hide and seek and always a eucalyptus forest.
Walkingbuddy walked to the lighttower ( I was doing some washing ) and said it was sheer madness because of an event from Audi. Audi everwhere. No room to walk and dangerous situations. So I thought to skip the walk. I remembered it from eight years ago as a very quiet and intimate place . Better to keep it that way.
We stayed at Hotel Langosteira. Ok but nothing more.
Hotel Langosteira | Fisterra
O hotel Langosteira é un pequeno hotel familiar reinaugurado en 2015, con un novo e orixinal deseño inspirado na tradición mariña da Costa da Morte e Galicia está situado ao pé do Camiño, a 300m. do centro da vila e da praia e a 3 km do Cabo-Faro Fisterra. Dispón de 11 cuartos todos exteriores...
www.hotellangosteira.com
Finisterre felt enormously touristy and prices reflect this.
And it is quite dead after 9.30 pm. Weird to see how all bars seem to close at that time!
Day five : Finisterre to Muxia. 28 km for my walkingbuddy and 14 km for me to Lires and then taxi to Muxia.
I started my day grumpy. Nothing open for breakfast on a Sunday at 8 am. Though finally I found an albergue that served something.
Gorgeous sunrise!
An open church, thanks to Italian volunteers that also volunteer at the Chapel of San Pedro Martir on the third etapa.
I was nurturing a cold and together with some hormonal issues I decided it was not wise of me to continue after Lires. So taxi it was! Some misunderstanding with two different drivers, someone elso who thought they helped me out but made things even more complicated. But I made it to Muxia albeit tired and confused by all the miscommunication.
Muxia had a BIG fiesta going on . Oh boy! Loud fancy fair, music groups, fireworks and lots of drunk people.
And Muxia was described as the quiet village.
So we immersed ourselves in the fancy fair ( all local restaurants were closed to give the temporary stallholders freeplay ) and had quite decent patatas fritas. And yup, as Belgians we are quite particular about our frites!
We stayed at Hostal Habitat II. Clean and airy. No reception so you have to walk to the main hotel and get the entrancecode.
*** HOTEL HOSTAL HABITAT MUXIA II, MUXIA ***
Hotel Hostal Habitat Muxia II Muxia - 3 star hotel. Providing 11 rooms, the 3-star Hostal Habitat Muxia II hotel is a mere 1.4 km from The Lighthouse of Muxia. The hotel also entices guests with airport transfer …
hostal-habitatii.delamuerte.info
But then we walked to the Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca. What a joy! I felt this more as the end of my pilgrimage than when I reached the cathedral at Santiago.
Was it always easy to walk with someone else? No , not all the time. I am more of an introvert whereas my walkingpartner prefers a bit more entertainment. I do not mind sitting alone somewhere whereas she prefers to be in company.
She is very good in being in the moment whereas I am more cautious or thinking of different scenarios so I am grateful for her positivity.
We feel the same about society, share values and find respect for other cultures very important.
We decided beforehand to split every bill in two ( except of course personal stuff bought in supermarket etc ). Sometimes she would have two wines and I only one but another time I would have a dessert and she would not .
When walking with someone else than your lifepartner I think the issue of spending money is important to get straight before you start walking.
I guess she must have sighed when she saw me taking another picture of yet another stone cross and I had to smile when she was checking her Runkeeper.
But we can be quiet together which is always a good sign.
I was happy for her she was able to see the Botafumeiro.
This was more a walking vacation for me, whereas the Sanabrés felt like a pilgrimage. For me it was all about the numbers of pilgrims.
Next Caminos will be on quieter routes and I do not need to end in Santiago ( anymore ).
Will I walk with other people again for days in a row? Yes, but it will be more likely Scotland, France or Austria.
We ended with a wonderful lunch at O Sendeiro in Santiago de Compostela! Book a table and you will be so pleasantly surprised!
Restaurante O Sendeiro Santiago de Compostela – Tu restaurante en Santiago de Compostela
Tu restaurante en Santiago de Compostela
osendeiro.com
English menu
osendeiro.com
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