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Camino Finisterre/ Muxia ( SabsP )

SabsP

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After I rested for a day and a half, waiting for my walkingbuddy to arrive, we started walking on the 11th of September.
She also walked with me and another friend last year on the Ingles and this year she asked me to arrange to have her backpack transferred. I would walk with my pack.
Seeing I prearranged all our stops it was also easy to prebook the packtransport.
There were some issues with paying by bankcard but it got easily resolved with a swift communication via Whatsapp.
I walked this route already in March 2016 ( during the terrorist atttacks on Brussels airport ) so this was a Camino in summer.
We were so lucky with the weather, aside from some light drops on one day it stayed dry and clear.
Not going to post much about the landscape. I made lots of pictures and I will post them on the daily pictures thread.

First day : Santiago to Negreira. 21.50 km.
My walkingbuddy is a walkingmachine. Since Covid began she has been walking daily. At least ten km per day so she is well trained. Together with her only having a daypack and her natural quicker pace we already decided to follow our own rhytm and we should meet at whatever cafe / bar was open for a rest.
I had kneepain that day although the differences in height were less than on my Sanabrés. But I blame walking in my Ecco sandals on the day off in Santiago. I should have kept my walking boots on.
A varied walk with the stop at Ponte Maceira as a highlight. I had to keep my pace low and steady , seeing the going down was extremly painful for my knee.
I also met more pilgrims this first day than I met on my whole Sanabrés! It felt crowded though nothing compared from the numbers I heard were coming in from Sarria or Tui
We made it to Negreira where we stayed in a private room at Albergue San José and we shared a bathroom with others.
Gorgeous garden.
We had dinner at wonderful Casa Barquiero. I follow them on social media and I can only praise their finer cuisine.



Second day : Negreira to A Picota. For me 25 km and then pick up by car. Walkingbuddy walked 30km.
Luckily the kneepain got resolved after a decent night sleep. Vey happy.
Alot of tarmac today but a more gradual walk. Never felt I overdid it. We also had two short and one longer breaks which helped.
So after 25 km I called the hotel where we stayed to pick me up and walkingbuddy walked an alternative route for five km. Very well signposted wit green flechas and mojones.
We stayed at Casa Jurjo and one of the extras they have is the free pickup. They renovated the place and we had a huge room for ourselves.


Their kitchen is not that great. But they are the only game in town so I guess I should not be too picky!

Day three : A Pictoa to Cee. 26 km.
The most gorgeous walk of this particular Camino.
So back finding the green arrows and mojons and four km further we were back on the regular Camino in Olveiroa.
A chapel and an Ermita. A big group of horseriders on their way to a local Romeria.
Steep downhill and then the first glimpse of water!
We also encountered a statue of a mythical creature while walking. The Vakner.

We stayed at pension Beiramar in Cee , almost on the border with Corcubion. The most expensive of all our nights, but maybe because it was a Friday?


We ate at As Baleas, which seems to be small chain seeing the also have a resto in Finisterre.
Actually quite decent food!

Day four: Cee to Finisterre. 11km.
An easy walk with alot of going up and down. The Ocean that plays hide and seek and always a eucalyptus forest.
Walkingbuddy walked to the lighttower ( I was doing some washing ) and said it was sheer madness because of an event from Audi. Audi everwhere. No room to walk and dangerous situations. So I thought to skip the walk. I remembered it from eight years ago as a very quiet and intimate place . Better to keep it that way.

We stayed at Hotel Langosteira. Ok but nothing more.

Finisterre felt enormously touristy and prices reflect this.
And it is quite dead after 9.30 pm. Weird to see how all bars seem to close at that time!

Day five : Finisterre to Muxia. 28 km for my walkingbuddy and 14 km for me to Lires and then taxi to Muxia.
I started my day grumpy. Nothing open for breakfast on a Sunday at 8 am. Though finally I found an albergue that served something.
Gorgeous sunrise!
An open church, thanks to Italian volunteers that also volunteer at the Chapel of San Pedro Martir on the third etapa.
I was nurturing a cold and together with some hormonal issues I decided it was not wise of me to continue after Lires. So taxi it was! Some misunderstanding with two different drivers, someone elso who thought they helped me out but made things even more complicated. But I made it to Muxia albeit tired and confused by all the miscommunication.
Muxia had a BIG fiesta going on . Oh boy! Loud fancy fair, music groups, fireworks and lots of drunk people.
And Muxia was described as the quiet village.
So we immersed ourselves in the fancy fair ( all local restaurants were closed to give the temporary stallholders freeplay ) a nd had quite decent patatas fritas. And yup, as Belgians we are quite particular about our frites!

We stayed at Hostal Habitat II. Clean and airy. No reception so you have to walk to the main hotel and get the entrancecode.


But then we walked to the Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca. What a joy! I felt this more as the end of my pilgrimage than when I reached the cathedral at Santiago.

Was it always easy to walk with someone else? No , not all the time. I am more of an introvert whereas my walkingpartner prefers a bit more entertainment. I do not mind sitting alone somewhere whereas she prefers to be in company.
She is very good in being in the moment whereas I am more cautious or thinking of different scenarios so I am grateful for her positivity.
We feel the same about society, share values and find respect for other cultures very important.

We decided beforehand to split every bill in two ( except of course personal stuff bought in supermarket etc ). Sometimes she would have two wines and I only one but another time I would have a dessert and she would not .
When walking with someone else than your lifepartner I think the issue of spending money is important to get straight before you start walking.

I guess she must have sighed when she saw me taking another picture of yet another stone cross and I had to smile when she was checking her Runkeeper.
But we can be quiet together which is always a good sign.
I was happy for her she was able to see the Botafumeiro.
This was more a walking vacation for me, whereas the Sanabrés felt like a pilgrimage. For me it was all about the numbers of pilgrims.

Next Caminos will be on quieter routes and I do not need to end in Santiago ( anymore ).

Will I walk with other people again for days in a row? Yes, but it will be more likely Scotland, France or Austria.

We ended with a wonderful lunch at O Sendeiro in Santiago de Compostela! Book a table and you will be so pleasantly surprised!

 
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Sorry you hit all the busy fairs in Muxia and rallies in Finesterre. I love the quiet Muxia, but towns people deserve an opportunity to cut loose once in a while, I suppose. Glad you got to eat at some of your favorite places.
 
Sorry you hit all the busy fairs in Muxia and rallies in Finesterre. I love the quiet Muxia, but towns people deserve an opportunity to cut loose once in a while, I suppose. Glad you got to eat at some of your favorite places.

Absolutely. I am merely a passerby so the locals should enjoy themselves!
Btw that day the European Cycling Championship drove past my house so I guess I was lucky to be in Muxia 😂.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Wonderful account of your Camino Finisterre/Muxia experience Sabine. Thanks for sharing it and for the very useful information it contains.

Cheers from Oz -
Jenny
 
Such a wonderful trip report that bought back a lot of good memories from my own post-Camino Frances walk from Santiago to Fisterra in 2022. We even stayed and ate at several of the same places that you did (Pension Beiramar, As Beleas, and Hostel Habitat Muxia II.)

Due to a stomach bug, I took a bus to Muxia after my Camino Portuguese this past May/June, and as much as I was looking forward to it (and as gorgeous as the walk to the Virgen de Barca is) I have to say I preferred my earlier stay in Fisterra more, which I know puts me in an extremely small minority here. Though indeed more touristy than Muxia, I liked how lively it was and there were more dining options. (By contrast, my time in Muxia was rather too quiet – the town felt practically deserted to me, even to the point of being a little creepy :)

Thanks for sharing your experience!
 
Another great report to read, with lots of practical and useful information.

So I thought to skip the walk. I remembered it from eight years ago as a very quiet and intimate place . Better to keep it that way.

Wise move, I think.. we can't recreate the past, sometimes it's better just to remember it!!😊
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I enjoyed your account of walking to Finesterre, Lires, and in to Muxia.
You have touched on the differences between individuals who walk a Camino together and you take it in stride and have a very positive attitude, which was nice to hear.
I enjoyed staying overnight in Lires twice; both were very serene and peaceful. I experienced the same in Muxia for my two nights. I can not imagine the festivities that surrounded you there in such a beautiful place. It would not have been my cup of tea either, but I agree we are guests just passing through.
I too, no longer feel compelled to have to necessarily end my Caminos in Santiago.
Thanks, Sabine, for taking the time to share your observations walking to Finesterre and beyond, and I hope your knee is now continuing to do well.
 

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