Bypassing Sarria to get to Santiago

[MonicaB]

I’m wondering if anyone has any info with regards to changing route to bypass Sarria to avoid the influx of pilgrims and thus avoiding the lack of beds?

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I’m wondering if anyone has any info with regards to changing route to bypass Sarria to avoid the influx of pilgrims and thus avoiding the lack of beds?

Are you on the Frances now? I think there’s a way coming off the Primitivo to cut back to the Norte so with some walking backwards it could probably be done from the Frances but it might be confusing for the cathedral to figure out what you did —and I don’t know that the Norte is less congested as it approaches SdC. Maybe a better idea would be to shorten or extend your walk so you’re out of step with the main crowd

edit: if you are on the Frances now if you mention where you are some folks (not me) might have some tips.

 

[MonicaB]

Are you on the Frances now? I think there’s a way coming off the Primitivo to cut back to the Norte so with some walking backwards it could probably be done from the Frances but it might be confusing for the cathedral to figure out what you did —and I don’t know that the Norte is less congested as it approaches SdC. Maybe a better idea would be to shorten or extend your walk so you’re out of step with the man in crowd

I will be starting the Frances Sept 14 for the first time. I’m torn between the idea of whether I will experience too many pilgrims or not enough. I also realize that all bets are off once I get to Sarria. I will probably get to that part of the way by the second week of October and maybe not as busy by then.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I will be starting the Frances Sept 14 for the first time. I’m torn between the idea of whether I will experience too many pilgrims or not enough. I also realize that all bets are off once I get to Sarria. I will probably get to that part of the way by the second week of October and maybe not as busy by then.

I didn’t walk in oct but yes I think it should be less busy. Of course w covid who knows but I think you will be fine. And by then if you weren’t a long distance walker you will be, so it will be easy to walk long or short days to avoid where all the new walkers from sarria are stopping.
Buen Camino!

 

[Former member 91017]

If you've not passed by Ponferrada yet, you can pick up the INVIERNO route at Ponferrada.

 

[trecile]

My first year I walked between Sarria and Santiago around the 3rd week of September. Yes, there were more pilgrims, but not overly so. In fact the albergue that I stayed at in Pedrouzo - REM, was practically empty.
It was quite a different story the following year when I walked this stretch in August during the height of Spanish vacation time.

 

[Tincatinker]

Anyone who can read a map can find a route between Sarria and SdC that doesn’t follow the “official” Camino route. Trouble is no-one runs Albergues that aren’t on the “official” route and the Pilgrim’s Office doesn’t recognize routes that aren’t “official”.
Depending on where you are then and how long you have you can divert from Ponferrada onto the Invierno or swing North to Lugo and pick up the Primitivo (don’t take the Verde, it is not a “recognized” Camino).
I wouldn’t be worried about crowds by October but beds might remain a problem until you’re into Galicia as places close down for the winter.
Best of luck and buen Camino

 

[C clearly]

to avoid the influx of pilgrims and thus avoiding the lack of beds?

Keep in mind that there are more beds on the Sarria route, because there are more pilgrims. So taking an untraveled route may or may not solve the problem of lack of beds.

 

[RJM]

Do not be put-off by the possibility (and it is just a possibility) that Sarria will be over crowded with pilgrims. Yes it is the starting point for so many, but every time I have been there (and that is several) I always easily found a bed and a meal (stayed in private and municipal albergues and pensiones). To be honest I cannot think of time I was there that I saw any large amounts of pilgrims and it was no different to me than any other town that size on the Camino.
If in doubt, do some research and choose a private albergue and make reservations.
Buen Camino

 

[alipilgrim]

If it’s your first pilgrimage I suggest staying on the Frances, though perhaps making reservations from Sarria on. There are sections of the walk that are lovely, it’s nice to finish what you’ve started, and it’d be a shame to lose the friends/faces with whom you’ve been walking with for the last several weeks.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Other than to see Lugo (which is totally amazing) and to be able to say you walked part of the Primitivo, I’d say cutting over to Lugo isn’t worth the extra walking. Since people are also use Lugo as a start point (to avoid Sarria) the road past Lugo gets more crowded but the infrastructure not as robust. And in one to two days you are back to walking on the Frances with everyone else. And I think the alburges along the Frances would be more likely to be open later in the year but I could be wrong. The Primitivo past Lugo is nice but the best part is before Lugo. I hit Melide in the second week of Jun and while there were lots more pilgrims than I’d seen before, no one seemed to be desperate for beds. I stopped in Arzua and had no trouble getting a bed in the first albergue I tried and in Monte do Gozo it was pretty empty. I think oct would be similar in terms of how many people walk in those months, but some albergues do start to shut down…I’d expect the ones on the Frances keep the welcome mat out longer than anywhere else. FWIW I worried about the crowds past Melide also, it’s part of being the first time.
Besides by then you may have a group of friends you want to stay with to SdC.
enjoy your pilgrimage

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Anyone who can read a map can find a route between Sarria and SdC that doesn’t follow the “official” Camino route. Trouble is no-one runs Albergues that aren’t on the “official” route and the Pilgrim’s Office doesn’t recognize routes that aren’t “official”.
Depending on where you are then and how long you have you can divert from Ponferrada onto the Invierno or swing North to Lugo and pick up the Primitivo (don’t take the Verde, it is not a “recognized” Camino).
I wouldn’t be worried about crowds by October but beds might remain a problem until you’re into Galicia as places close down for the winter.
Best of luck and buen Camino

I just realized we walked some of the same paths in 2012…odd, I don’t remember you

 

[Tincatinker]

I just realized we walked some of the same paths in 2012…odd, I don’t remember you

Tinkers like to stay forgotten
2012 was a vintage year in my judgment

 

[Susan Peacock]

Don’t worry about the numbers of pilgrims. As you can see everyone answers the question based upon their experience. I have walked 4 times, spring, summer and fall and all me experiences were different, even in the same season. The best advice I can give for avoiding crowds is to stay in towns that are not the guide book stages. These will generally be smaller towns. You will start your morning with fewer people and generally be with less people.I found this to be true all except the last day into Santiago, when I wasn’t sure where all the people came from. I would be sure and check whether the Albergue’s are open due to COVID. This year is unique and none of our experiences translate perhaps.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Seven kilometers past Sarria is a secluded albergue in an old mill. Lovely place. In July 2015 it was only half full when we were there. A kitchen and congregating place was in a separate modern building. A small selection of groceries are for sale.

Molino de Marzán

Molino de Marzan - Index

 

[henrythedog]

The current reports are for the months of July and August. That’s when, even in normal years, most of Europe is on holiday and the Albergue-bed-race is a regular feature.

October will be more quiet (all else being equal). I have never walked between May and mid-September and have never had the least anxiety about accommodation.


You’re over-thinking the plan.

 

[VNwalking]

Just don't stay in Sarria or any of the usual stage-ending towns. There will be more people, but it's not as big a deal when you do that.

 

[Scott Fraser]

I’m wondering if anyone has any info with regards to changing route to bypass Sarria to avoid the influx of pilgrims and thus avoiding the lack of beds?

In 2017, I walked Sarria to Santiago with small children. We walked ~10-12 km a day vs the normal 20-25. This meant we stopped between the normal stages every other day. Days that began mid-stage were not crowded. Days that started at the regular stops were. To avoid crowds you don’t need to walk a different route, just plan the stops at the mid point or beyond of each stage.

 

[Theresa Ruttger]

I was a hospitalero in Ribadiso in September of 2019. We saw a dramatic decrease in pilgrims the last week in September.
My pilgrim friend and I walked the Frances in 2017 and booked each night from Sarria on since we are slow walkers. It all worked out well. More planning but peace of mind-

 

[Meggins]

I've always gone through Samos myself - besutiful monastery and my friend went to the Gregorian Chant in the evening. Never stayed in Sarria.

 

[NorthernLight]

Those who commence their pilgrimage in Sarria are most likely starting on a Saturday or Sunday, so avoid arriving in Sarria on the weekend.

 

[Eugene Carroll]

If it’s your first pilgrimage I suggest staying on the Frances, though perhaps making reservations from Sarria on. There are sections of the walk that are lovely, it’s nice to finish what you’ve started, and it’d be a shame to lose the friends/faces with whom you’ve been walking with for the last several weeks.

Yip, that’s exactly what I would do. I will stay in Sarria next week and I am looking forward to rocking around the town again

 

[lt56ny]

I’m wondering if anyone has any info with regards to changing route to bypass Sarria to avoid the influx of pilgrims and thus avoiding the lack of beds?

In 2017, I walked Sarria to Santiago with small children. We walked ~10-12 km a day vs the normal 20-25. This meant we stopped between the normal stages every other day. Days that began mid-stage were not crowded. Days that started at the regular stops were. To avoid crowds you don’t need to walk a different route, just plan the stops at the mid point or beyond of each stage.

It is wonderful to walk "between" stages on more popular routes. it is mellower when walking and you can discover some real gems of albergues and donativos that most pilgrims do not know of. Best advice there is I think especially from Sarria and since he is not starting in Sarria there is no reason to stay there.

Perfect example from Rick here:

Seven kilometers past Sarria is a secluded albergue in an old mill. Lovely place. In July 2015 it was only half full when we were there. A kitchen and congregating place was in a separate modern building. A small selection of groceries are for sale.

Molino de Marzán
Molino de Marzan - Index

 

[t2andreo]

If you try to avoid arriving at Sarria on a Friday or Saturday, you should be fine. Those who travel to Sarria by train or bus to start their relatively short Camino, usually arrive at Sarria on Friday or Saturday. They stay overnight, then start towards Santiago the next day.

This is not a guarantee. But over the years, this has been the pattern, especially for organized groups.

Think of it like surfing. You are sitting on your surfboard, beyond the breaking waves, watching for just the right wave to come along - to ride.

But, in this case, you want one of the five smaller waves - with fewer pilgrims - arriving from Sunday - Thursday nights. Catching one of the two big waves - arriving on Friday or Saturday nights - usually results in a “wipeout.”

Point made?

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[williamlittig]

I’m wondering if anyone has any info with regards to changing route to bypass Sarria to avoid the influx of pilgrims and thus avoiding the lack of beds?

All this worry. You're going to ruin your walk. " Que Sera Sera, Whatever will be will be"

 

[Storyteller Matt]

I will be starting the Frances Sept 14 for the first time. I’m torn between the idea of whether I will experience too many pilgrims or not enough. I also realize that all bets are off once I get to Sarria. I will probably get to that part of the way by the second week of October and maybe not as busy by then.

I started my first Camino in Sarria on October 17, 2018. It wasn't terrible crowded from Sarria to CDS, and I had no problem getting a bed the rest of the way.

I start my second Camino in Pamplona on September 17 or 18 (depending on which train I catch from Madrid), so chances are we'll run into each other.

I have more of a plan this time than I did in 2018, but if there's one thing I learned back then, it's that the Camino always provides.

Look out for me, and we'll look out for each other.

 

[OTH86]

@MonicaB , On 26 Oct 2014, my last night before Sarria, I stayed at San Mamed do Camino at Paloma y Leña, a lovely place. Walked the 4k to Sarria, had breakfast, and continued on. I arrived in Santiago on 2 Nov. Places were open along the way, but some of the smaller ones were closing as of 1 Nov. There weren't too many people walking, but it was quite chilly and rainy. This year may be different...
Buen Camino!

 

[mspath]

@MonicaB , On 26 Oct 2014, my last night before Sarria, I stayed at San Mamed do Camino at Paloma y Leña, a lovely place. Walked the 4k to Sarria, had breakfast, and continued on. I arrived in Santiago on 2 Nov. Places were open along the way, but some of the smaller ones were closing as of 1 Nov. There weren't too many people walking, but it was quite chilly and rainy. This year may be different...
Buen Camino!

OTH86,
I also stayed here but in late Februrary 2008; they had just opened.
The owners spoke many languages. Each dorm of 4 beds had its own bathroom. The common spaces were very handsome and all well fitted out...Well heated it was a great find for a cold winter night.

 

[Annetom]

Too much thinking! If, I get my hip replacement soon and am given the OK to walk another Camino, then I will go! Slowly, but I will go. If am advised to wait a year them I will train locally and hope for next year. Trying to stay positive! Buen Camino to all walking now or in the next few months.

 

[mikebet]

By mid-October in a Covid-constrained year it doesn't seem likely you will encounter a crowded Frances even after Sarria. We did that stretch at about that time in a regular year and didn't have any problems.

 

[sillydoll]

You could get a bus to El Ferrol and walk to Santiago on the Camino Ingles. It has a very similar landscape to the Camino Frances

 

[Albertagirl]

Too much thinking! If, I get my hip replacement soon and am given the OK to walk another Camino, then I will go! Slowly, but I will go. If am advised to wait a year them I will train locally and hope for next year. Trying to stay positive! Buen Camino to all walking now or in the next few months.

I got my knee replacement in late October of last year and am heading out on my next camino on Sept. 12. Waits for orthopaedic surgery are often long, but mine was, oddly, rather short, partly due to the advanced deterioration of the knee and partly due to covid outbreaks in the hospital which offered the surgery. Others decided not to go ahead at that time and I moved rapidly to the head of the list. I have been working hard at my rehabilitation and now am ready to go. I hope that you may have your surgery soon and be ready to go after your recovery. One bit of good news is that the pain and mobility problems which you experienced before surgery should be mostly gone after your recovery (depending on your specific problem, of course). I was on two non-prescription painkillers a day before my surgey, and now I can't remember the last time that I took one. Good luck, and "Buen camino" when the time comes.

 

[Wanderingfriend]

I will be starting the Frances Sept 14 for the first time. I’m torn between the idea of whether I will experience too many pilgrims or not enough. I also realize that all bets are off once I get to Sarria. I will probably get to that part of the way by the second week of October and maybe not as busy by then.

Monica, I am thinking a lot like you. I hope by October it will be less of an issue to find a bed. I am holding the tension of not enough pilgrims and too many!

 

[Wanderingfriend]

May see you along the Way. Buen Camino.

 

[mayne]

I've always gone through Samos myself - besutiful monastery and my friend went to the Gregorian Chant in the evening. Never stayed in Sarria.

I too detoured to Samos...a beautiful walk with lots of accommodation but I stayed in the monastery. It was so worth it, one of the oldest monasterys, had a guided tour by a monk and went to a beautiful mass, right out of the middle ages. On the way back, it is about 13 km I think, I didnt stop in Sarria but walked through to Barbadello, an extra 5km, 18 beds then, I am not sure if it would be open now.

 

[Annetom]

I got my knee replacement in late October of last year and am heading out on my next camino on Sept. 12. Waits for orthopaedic surgery are often long, but mine was, oddly, rather short, partly due to the advanced deterioration of the knee and partly due to covid outbreaks in the hospital which offered the surgery. Others decided not to go ahead at that time and I moved rapidly to the head of the list. I have been working hard at my rehabilitation and now am ready to go. I hope that you may have your surgery soon and be ready to go after your recovery. One bit of good news is that the pain and mobility problems which you experienced before surgery should be mostly gone after your recovery (depending on your specific problem, of course). I was on two non-prescription painkillers a day before my surgey, and now I can't remember the last time that I took one. Good luck, and "Buen camino" when the time comes.

Thank you. All that you said is most reassuring. Enjoy your Camino!

 

[Thomas1962]

Are you on the Frances now? I think there’s a way coming off the Primitivo to cut back to the Norte so with some walking backwards it could probably be done from the Frances but it might be confusing for the cathedral to figure out what you did —and I don’t know that the Norte is less congested as it approaches SdC. Maybe a better idea would be to shorten or extend your walk so you’re out of step with the main crowd

edit: if you are on the Frances now if you mention where you are some folks (not me) might have some tips.

If you want to avoid the last part of the Frances, there is indeed a camino which goes from O Cobreiro to Lugo on the Primitivo. From there you can go to the Northe, and from there, there is a bypass which brings you back on the camino Frances only at the airport, 15 kms before Santiago.
You can see the route on this page of the Dutch Confranternity of Saoint James, with som googel translate you can also find out how to downlaod these gpx files into yoour phone.
On this page there is a description of this route from Ferreira (27kms after Lugo) to this poin15 kms before SdC. It is a very quite and lovely route, especially for people who like to walk more soletary.

 

[Annetom]

I got my knee replacement in late October of last year and am heading out on my next camino on Sept. 12. Waits for orthopaedic surgery are often long, but mine was, oddly, rather short, partly due to the advanced deterioration of the knee and partly due to covid outbreaks in the hospital which offered the surgery. Others decided not to go ahead at that time and I moved rapidly to the head of the list. I have been working hard at my rehabilitation and now am ready to go. I hope that you may have your surgery soon and be ready to go after your recovery. One bit of good news is that the pain and mobility problems which you experienced before surgery should be mostly gone after your recovery (depending on your specific problem, of course). I was on two non-prescription painkillers a day before my surgey, and now I can't remember the last time that I took one. Good luck, and "Buen camino" when the time comes.

Great to hear that. Buen Camino and fingers crossed I will be able to do another soon. That is, if Covid goes away!!

 

[Philtration]

I just finished the Frances 2 weeks ago. We left Sarria on a Saturday (a bad day) with a huge crowd of newly arrived 100K pilgrims. It was crowded enough we felt we needed to wear our covid masks while walking. At Portomarín the next day, we started by taking a taxi ahead 1/2 stage. We drove past the same huge line of people headed out of town. Just like that, it was back to reasonable numbers on the trail. My advice is void guide published stages for the last 120+ kilometers.

 

[peregrina2000]

On this page there is a description of this route from Ferreira (27kms after Lugo) to this poin15 kms before SdC. It is a very quite and lovely route, especially for people who like to walk more soletary.

I have heard from Twin Pines (which you mention on your website as the place to stop) that they have closed the B&B and turned it into a whole house rental. There seem to be a few other options, though none quite so well located. Do you have any ideas since you know the area? Thanks, buen camino, Laurie

 

[Thomas1962]

I have heard from Twin Pines (which you mention on your website as the place to stop) that they have closed the B&B and turned it into a whole house rental. More info on this thread. There seem to be a few other options, though none quite so well located. Do you have any ideas since you know the area? Thanks, buen camino, Laurie

That is a pity! It was the perfect available stop in this part of that camino. I will try to check later if there are any other likewise options.
Thanks for letting me know.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I would simply look for beds between the Brierley "stages."

 

[rappahannock_rev]

2012 was a vintage year in my judgment

Agreed!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Annie, are you saying that the alternate route from Sobrado to Lavacolla is in Brierley? I don’t have his guide, so if it is and if you do have it, would you look and see what options are right around where Twin Peaks is?

The OP asked about the Camino Frances. I was just saying instead of staying in Sarria and the remaining "Brierley" or any guidebood stages, one way to avoid the shortage of beds would be to stay BETWEEN those stages. So, stay in Barbadelo, Morgade, Ferrerios or Mercadoiro in Stage 29. Then in Stage 30, walk to Hospital or Ventas or Ligonde (I love the little albergue here). Then in Stage 30 stay in Melide (tons of places) or O Coto or Casteneda (love it here too). Etc, etc.

New pilgrims seem to thing the "Brierley stages" are set in stone. And so the places are often full in those villages. My point was, they're not set in stone -- walk between stages and find beds. At least, that's been my experience.

 

[Jeff Robinson]

I will be starting the Frances Sept 14 for the first time. I’m torn between the idea of whether I will experience too many pilgrims or not enough. I also realize that all bets are off once I get to Sarria. I will probably get to that part of the way by the second week of October and maybe not as busy by then.

You don’t have to worry about it. The children go back to school in September and they are the major reason that the last 100 km are so crowded. Groups of children are escorted from Sarria to Santiago.

Take this opportunity while you have it. This is an opportunity of a lifetime! The numbers on the Camino this year are the lowest it has been in over 10 years (or about). Walking it is like going back in time. I’m here now and about a week outside of Sarria. And it is absolutely great!

I encourage anyone who has had both shots to GO! Quit worrying about beds. Everyone worried about beds when I was here in 2014 for goodness sake. It seems that there will always be people worrying about beds.

 

[CaptBuddy]

All this worry. You're going to ruin your walk. " Que Sera Sera, Whatever will be will be"

You will find your pack much lighter if you pack less fear. Buen Caminos

 

[André Walker]

Hi Monica,

First of all: buen Camino!

Maybe it won’t be too crowded between Sarria and SdC at this not-quite-past-COVID moment. But, depending on how much time you’ve got, there are a few options:

• In Léon, switch to the Camino Salvador, to Oviedo. In Oviedo, continue on the Camino Primitivo to either join the Frances at Melide or (in Lugo) switch to the Camino Verde which will lead you in 2 stages (having to stay in a hotel once, in Friol) to Sobrado dos Monxes (a not very well known Camino, but can be found on Wikiloc). There you can continue on the Camino del Norte to join the Frances at either Arzua, A Brea or Lavacolla.
• As someone already mentioned: switch at Ponferrada to the Camino Invierno to A Laxe and continue on the Via Sanabres (Via de la Plata) to SdC.

Stay safe. And enjoy both your Camino as well as planning it.

Ultreia.

 

[Jeff Robinson]

I’m wondering if anyone has any info with regards to changing route to bypass Sarria to avoid the influx of pilgrims and thus avoiding the lack of beds?

Hello Monica,
This is my second reply to your post. I am currently 56K outside Santiago (Melide) and I’m happy to report that it is NOT crowded on the Camino.

 

[Lucy Keenan]

I will be starting the Frances Sept 14 for the first time. I’m torn between the idea of whether I will experience too many pilgrims or not enough. I also realize that all bets are off once I get to Sarria. I will probably get to that part of the way by the second week of October and maybe not as busy by then.

Maybe if you are worried about the sharia bit, book your beds and book between the "stages"

 

[Thomas1962]

Hello Monica,
This is my second reply to your post. I am currently 56K outside Santiago (Melide) and I’m happy to report that it is NOT crowded on the Camino.

Can you explain in what way exacty it is not crowded at this moment? There are indeed less pilgrims then like 2 years ago, but because of the bed restrictions of 50% there was a very serious shortage of beds. How is your experience in that now?
My experience is that the pressure on the beds are indeed a bit lower, but this is what happens every year at the end of august, for many people the end of their holiday. Usually, after the first week of september the numbers are rising again. Let us hope the bed pressure will not that bad any more, also because last week the max capacity in albergues went up from 30 to 50%.

 

[Jeff Robinson]

Can you explain in what way exacty it is not crowded at this moment? There are indeed less pilgrims then like 2 years ago, but because of the bed restrictions of 50% there was a very serious shortage of beds. How is your experience in that now?
My experience is that the pressure on the beds are indeed a bit lower, but this is what happens every year at the end of august, for many people the end of their holiday. Usually, after the first week of september the numbers are rising again. Let us hope the bed pressure will not that bad any more, also because last week the max capacity in albergues went up from 30 to 50%.

During the year before Camino we had about 350,000 pilgrims check into the Santiago Pilgrim Office. Currently I think we are looking at less than 100,000 for the year 2021.

Regardless, from Sahagun to my current albergué I have not made a reservation and I have always had a bed. My current position is 7 miles from Santiago. I am sharing an entire alberg with one other person.

Do the math if you like, but my opinion is that the Camino is NOT crowded.
Again, I feel this is the chance of a lifetime.

 

[Thomas1962]

During the year before Camino we had about 350,000 pilgrims check into the Santiago Pilgrim Office. Currently I think we are looking at less than 100,000 for the year 2021.

Regardless, from Sahagun to my current albergué I have not made a reservation and I have always had a bed. My current position is 7 miles from Santiago. I am sharing an entire alberg with one other person.

Do the math if you like, but my opinion is that the Camino is NOT crowded.
Again, I feel this is the chance of a lifetime.

Happy to hear that the bed pressure became much lower in the past week.
About your calculation: I think it is nearly right, but what happens this year is that there (nearly) were no pilgrims till july. So this year all come in one half a season.

 

[Caligal]

On my Camino in 2018 I stayed at Alb. Paloma y Lena in San Mamed 4 kms before Sarria. Quiet, wonderful Communal dinner, typical breakfast and you’re 4 kms behind the Sarria group in the morning

 

[mspath]

On my Camino in 2018 I stayed at Alb. Paloma y Lena in San Mamed 4 kms before Sarria. Quiet, wonderful Communal dinner, typical breakfast and you’re 4 kms behind the Sarria group in the morning

Caligal,
Glad you liked it. I stayed also years ago in February 2008 and loved it.