Busy? I’m alone at Luquin.

[Peregrinopaul]

I arrived on the Francés yesterday in Estella. Stayed in the Albergue Curtadores on the entry to town. Few pilgrims for a big albergue. And tonight I’m by myself at the one-of-a-kind Casa Tiago in Luquin. I made a point of coming here because Tiago looked after me with such care when I was sick last year. Love this place. I think the entire population was in the only bar tonight. We had live, very Spanish music from some fine musicians.

 

[Amachant]

I arrived on the Francés yesterday in Estella. Stayed in the Albergue Curtadores on the entry to town. Few pilgrims for a big albergue. And tonight I’m by myself at the one-of-a-kind Casa Tiago in Luquin. I made a point of coming here because Tiago looked after me with such care when I was sick last year. Love this place. I think the entire population was in the only bar tonight. We had live, very Spanish music from some fine musicians.

Sounds lovely! We are just starting out…will arrive at Roncesvalles tomorrow. Will try and make our way there.

 

[Bradypus]

A good reason to take the complementario routes when you have the chance and to stay in the smaller places too. 3,145 Compostelas handed out yesterday - the fifth day this year where the total has been over 3,000. So it is pretty busy at the end of the line. But the Camino Frances before Sarria isn't seeing that much of this year's boom in numbers. That is mainly happening on other routes like the Portugues Costa, the Ingles and the Primitivo.

 

[caminka]

I arrived on the Francés yesterday in Estella. Stayed in the Albergue Curtadores on the entry to town. Few pilgrims for a big albergue. And tonight I’m by myself at the one-of-a-kind Casa Tiago in Luquin. I made a point of coming here because Tiago looked after me with such care when I was sick last year. Love this place. I think the entire population was in the only bar tonight. We had live, very Spanish music from some fine musicians.

Loved it when I was there two years ago.
The connection back to CF seemed well marked, however, I took a self-made route to Los Arcos via Barbarin and ermita san Jorge. Then another one via El Busto to Sansol. Beautiful green wheat fields with poppies.

 

[trecile]

I was alone at an albergue about 12 km past León about 10 days ago. The hospitalera said that it was unusually quiet.

 

[good_old_shoes]

This is why I love walking the Francés in june / july.

Better weather than in spring, and not that busy (well, until Triacastela...).

I've never taken the Variant via Luquin. I think I'll try to next time I walk. It sounds good. Thanks for sharing!

 

[oursonpolaire]

I took the wrong route out of Estella and it turned out to be a very agreeable walk through forests etc to Luquin. If you go, make sure you visit the basilica, which might be one of the smallest in existence, but has a nice baroque interior.

 

[VNwalking]

nice baroque interior

An oxymoron, imo. ... but I'm glad someone likes the style. More to the geological point of this thread, the baroque can have amazing marble.

 

[akane81]

I finished Sarria to Santiago a few weeks ago, they said these routes are very busy but perhaps I was walking too slowly or what, there were long stretches I was walking alone and many of the pilgrims disappeared especially after 2pm or 3pm.

 

[dick bird]

An oxymoron, imo. ... but I'm glad someone likes the style. More to the geological point of this thread, the baroque can have amazing marble.

Ah, the immortal line from Disney’s ‘Beauty and the Beast’ - “If it ain’t Baroque, don’t fix it”. I’d forgive Baroque if it didn’t have a habit of plonking massive great choirs in the middle of Gothic cathedral aisles.

 

[VNwalking]

“If it ain’t Baroque, don’t fix it”.

I’d forgive Baroque if it didn’t have a habit of plonking massive great choirs in the middle of Gothic cathedral aisles.

Exactly.
Or draping perfectly good porticos (or whole cathedrals) behind new and far less beautiful 'decoration.'

The cathedral in Lugo was so awful inside I decided to walk to Santiago via Melide and the Francés fearing another dose of cherub excess in Sobrado. Looking at photos in retrospect, the latter looks more neoclassical tha Baroque. But still. No regrets.

Sorry, Paul. Back to rocks.

 

[roving_rufus]

I am in Sahagun- and have been walking backwards from Las Herrerias on the CF - and nearly every albergue has plenty of space, nor have I felt walking against the normal stream that I have been battling crowds. It seems much quieter than when I was heading to SdeC at the end of May. Only one bar has had a queue- in El Burgo Ranero but that flurry of activity lasted 20 minutes as a cluster arrived on the 7km from Bercianos wanting breakfast.

 

[Kirkie]

I am in Sahagun- and have been walking backwards from Las Herrerias on the CF - and nearly every albergue has plenty of space, nor have I felt walking against the normal stream that I have been battling crowds. It seems much quieter than when I was heading to SdeC at the end of May. Only one bar has had a queue- in El Burgo Ranero but that flurry of activity lasted 20 minutes as a cluster arrived on the 7km from Bercianos wanting breakfast.

You are confirming information I got last week from someone working in tourism in Navarra... and safe trip home. Hope you are not relying on the former national airline.

 

[roving_rufus]

You are confirming information I got last week from someone working in tourism in Navarra... and safe trip home. Hope you are not relying on the former national airline.

No I am the other Irish one...with Mr O'Leary (even if I prefer the other one - though in this case I am glad not to be facing strikes)

I suspect last year's early heatwave in June did have some effect in pushing people earlier in spring, and also Easter was as nearly as early as it can get which is a popular starting time with various countries having holidays then. So June is quieter!

 

[Tickbush]

I started in Atapuerca (where an injury ended my walk last year) on May 31. There have been many times when I didn't see another pilgrim for an hour or two. I've never failed to get a bed in my first choice of albergues. Mostly I stay in "off stage" towns, but not always. I may have to do a little more planning as I approach Sarria, but I think that the same strategy will see me through.

 

[falconbrother]

We’re in Melide tonight. The pre-Sarria path was sparse. The day we walked by Cruz de Ferro we were alone. Since Sarria it’s been crowded mornings. School groups etc.

 

[Aussiewanderer]

I arrived on the Francés yesterday in Estella. Stayed in the Albergue Curtadores on the entry to town. Few pilgrims for a big albergue. And tonight I’m by myself at the one-of-a-kind Casa Tiago in Luquin. I made a point of coming here because Tiago looked after me with such care when I was sick last year. Love this place. I think the entire population was in the only bar tonight. We had live, very Spanish music from some fine musicians.

Oh Estella. What history !!! But yes. Super small town. I loved it too the cathedrals and churches