Between Villafranca M de O and San Juan de Ortega

[pvh]

Hello,

We are continuing our camino this year and I'm planning stages and hoping to walk Belorado to San Juan de Ortega. However, I'm looking at the profile and the section from Villafranca Montes do Oca and San Juan de Ortega looks to have quite a climb to it and also looks like 12 km without a cafe/shop/drinking fountain. Am I correct in this assumption or is there a caravan/temporary stall or something selling refreshments on this section between Villafranca and San Juan? If not I'll obviously need to plan accordingly.
Many thanks

 

[mspath]

The clìmb is not difficult. However there are neither permanent services nor potable water along the path. You must be prepared.

In winter the SJO albergue is closed, as is the casa rural and the nearby bar. When the bar is open their plate of blood pudding and eggs is great! Do try it.

Good luck and Buen camino!

 

[JennyH94]

Hi pvh -
I walked through this area earlier this week. I concur with mspath that the climb isn’t difficult. I walked with Spot, my hiking trailer and all was fine. There was a guy selling drinks and snacks and doing physio for a donativo around 5kms from San Juan de Ortega but as mspath has advised, there’s no guarantee that anyone will be on the path to sell refreshments between Villafranca and San Juan de Ortega.
There is a very good tienda in Villafranca with a friendly and helpful owner on the left hand side of the road before you get to the church. I recommend you stock up with food there.
The albergue in Villafranca - San Anton Abad is wonderful, if you decide to stop in Villafranca overnight. Roomy dorm with single beds and chest height partitions for privacy - lockers - for 10 euros and a fantastic pilgrim menu for 13 euros plus cute resident dogs who love to have their tummies rubbed! Absolutely spotless. I’d be back there in a heartbeat!
There is a monument to the fallen from the Spanish Civil War between these two towns. Make sure you stop to view both the monument and the mass grave where the bodies were found. It’s profoundly moving. There’s a lot of forest on this stage - enjoy the tranquility as you walk on this quiet, ancient and magical path.
Buen Camino and take joy in every step.
Edit - An additional thought - make sure you have enough money to last a few days before you leave Belorado. ATMs are in the main plaza. I couldn’t find an ATM in Villafranca and had to break into my emergency money before I was able to restock with funds at an ATM in Burgos.

 

[josephmcclain]

I agree the path from Villafranca Montes de Oca through the forest is a very, very mystical place. And the climb is by no means the hardest one!

 

[scruffy1]

San Anton Abad is a three star hotel with a wonderful spacey pilgrims albergue around the side - the owner walked to Santiago years ago. The pilgrims menu is served in the hotel's marvelous dining room early - the Spanish hotel guests preferring to eat much later. Years ago I really wanted to stop at San Juan de Ortega arrived to late for the garlic soup the priest had passed away but in time for the overpowering perfume radiating from the place, a generations of mold plus mildew - I walked on to Ages. Hopefully they have cleaned and fumigated the place since then.

 

[hotelmedicis]

I left Belorado at 5:20 am and arrived at San Juan de Ortega a little after 10 am. It's not a difficult walk at all but I do remember that it was quite windy (6 May 2017) and chilly but I had water and nibbles with me. I don't recall any shops or cafés along the way, just rolling hills full of pine and oak with thickets of broom and the light purple flowers of blooming heather. When I stayed at San Juan in 2001 it was rather dilapidated and I ended up sleeping on the kitchen floor since all the beds were taken. Father Alonso served us his homemade garlic soup. There might have been 20 of us.

Since I had already stayed at San Juan I kept walking and almost stopped in Agés (which was abandoned in 2001) but the weather was perfect for walking and I continued on to Burgos, arriving there late in the afternoon. Unfortunately I didn't take the river route but rather went through the industrial wasteland of suburban Burgos.

In any event, just leave Belorado with water and nibbles and you'll be fine.

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Hello,

We are continuing our camino this year and I'm planning stages and hoping to walk Belorado to San Juan de Ortega. However, I'm looking at the profile and the section from Villafranca Montes do Oca and San Juan de Ortega looks to have quite a climb to it and also looks like 12 km without a cafe/shop/drinking fountain. Am I correct in this assumption or is there a caravan/temporary stall or something selling refreshments on this section between Villafranca and San Juan? If not I'll obviously need to plan accordingly.
Many thanks

Its 12km so 2 hours walking but take some water. Easy even in January in Snow

 

[Glenshiro]

The climb out of Villafranca Montes de Oca is slow and easy (especially if you've crossed the Route Napoleon to Roncesvalles) and, shortly after the Monumento fusilados Guerra Civil (Civil War memorial) there will probably be an ad hoc refreshment stall selling cold drinks, fruit etc. Even if there isn't, it's only 12 km to San Juan de Ortega, so about 3 hours' walking. ( I think, with respect, that 2 hours is a bit optimistic.) I really enjoyed this part of the Camino, mainly through pine forest, with some far-reaching views.

 

[mspath]

Its 12km so 2 hours walking but take some water. Easy even in January in Snow

However It is not ALWAYS easy to walk in snow ! Here is my blog of February 25, 26, 2006, written in Villafranca re a famous snowstorm twelve years ago.

"By the time I trekked 10 k to Villafranca Montes de Oca the Camino was covered with 2 or 3 inches of snow. Walking had become dangerous. After lunch in a truck stop, I went to the municipal albergue. No one was about, but the front door and one dormitory were open. No heat in the radiators, but piles of blankets and a hot plate. Considering the alternative it was great! Mid afternoon I snuggled into my sleeping bag; outside the storm steadily intensified. As night fell the radiators started up. How lucky I was!

About 9 pm. the front door banged open followed by steps up the stairs. Resembling snow-covered yetis, two pilgrims stood at the foot of my bunk! One guy was French, the other Brazilian. We introduced ourselves and shared many cups of hot tea....Early in the morning the Frenchman left. Outside was a winter wonderland. The snow continued to fall. Bundling up for the storm plastic bags over socks served as makeshift gaiters. Outside the snow reached mid-shin. No trail could be seen; only a few markers affixed to trees were apparent. Walking was treacherous. At a road crossing the Brazilian and I were intercepted by the Guarda Civil in a four-wheel drive. Firmly stating that our lives were imperiled the police insisted on us returning to the albergue. ...By mid-morning the next day the storm was over and we went on to Burgos."

 

[mspath]

View attachment 34724 Proof positive of the 2006 snow and me!...

“Where are the snows of yesteryear?/Mais où sont les neiges d’antan? ” François Villon

 

[pvh]

Thank you all for your replies.

 

[David Tallan]

Its 12km so 2 hours walking but take some water. Easy even in January in Snow

Wow, you walk fast!

When we walked through in 2016 there was an "Oasis" in the middle of the woods between Villafranca and San Juan de Ortega. You can't miss it, not only because of the signs advertising its presence kilometres before you reach it. There are lots of colourful carved wooden poles and things and flowers. There are places to rest. When we passed through, that's all there was but I've seen in other people's photos and videos that a donativo refreshment stand sometimes operates out of that location. I'm not sure of the hours, though (or if it is still there).

 

[pvh]

Thanks David, that's useful to know