asphalt and road-side walking??

[lianaj]

Hello friends,

I walked the Camino Frances last year and am now preparing to walk the Camino del Norte in May. I've been checking out blogs and websites and also ordered the Spanish guide "Camino Norte de Santiago" by Anton Pombo (2010) which just arrived. On examining the maps today, I was surprised by just how much of the route is road-side walking and on asphalt (it looks like more than 50% of the way)!

I understand the views are spectacular on this route and the number of pilgrims few, but can anyone who has walked both the Frances and the Norte, give some comparison as to the surfaces of the trails and the overall environment you pass through. I felt that while there were many many pilgrims on the Frances, the trail itself was a very quiet way... through fields, sleepy towns and forrests. Is the North route through much more populated areas, and mostly along major roads?

Thank you so much for your feedback.
Cheers and Buen Camino
Liana

 

[mikevasey]

Hi Liana, there is no escaping the fact that the Camino del Norte is for a lot of the time on minor roads, the 1st photo shows the N632, and there is a whole Etapa (Soto de Luina to Cadavedo) which is on it. Also occassionally you have a run in with a major road, think Mansillias to Leon without the saving grace of a side track, on the Norte you are on the hard shoulder, a section which sticks in my mind is Gijon to Aviles. BUT to not put you off as too much, there is very beautiful trails as well. And even some of the asphalt can be incredibly peaceful sometimes

It may be worth looking at the threads through the Norte section there is a bit of talk about the Coastal route(E9) see if you can add to your own notes suggestions by other people. The coastal route to Llanes is worth taking, i think the CSJ guide gives details of it, also after Comillas there is an option of walking along the beach to San Vincente, after Tapia there is a coastal path to Ribadeo. You can certainly make yourself aware of when you will be next to the major roads, and maybe forum members be able to help you with an alternative.

Mike

 

[Sagalouts]

Hi Liana
like you I walk the Norte in May and also had worries about the amount of road walking,but having also walked the Frances twice its easy because of the huge uplifting experiance of it-to forget the huge amount of road asphalt-pavement walking there is,think Leon-Burgos-Pamplona-Astorga-Santiago itself-even the walk from Villafrance del Bierzo-to the start of O Cebreiro is all on concrete unless you take alternative routes.I believe the Norte is the same but with more alternatives at least I hope so!! if it turns out not to be so-then I take the primotivo :?
Ian

 

[jabri]

Dear All,
It cannot be said often enough: rule one for asphalt and road-side walking:

Always, I repeat; Always, walk on the left side of the road, so you always see the traffic coming!!!
It is certainly not forbidden in any country in Europe! Safety first.

Jan Brilleman

 

[lianaj]

Thank you for your replies. Sorry I've taken so long to get back to you.

Mike, I've noticed your posts on several different forum topics and your advice is really helpful... clear and encouraging. Thanks for taking the time to help out your fellow peregrinos! Looks like the little maps in my Spanish guide do not show the E9 and alternative routes. I will continue to scrapbook pages from this forum and defer to the CSJ guides (although I work much better with visuals. If only Eric Walker's guides came with maps!!)

I also took note of your suggestion for an abbreviated walk from Luarca to Santiago. I've been planning to start by walking the first few days of the Frances again from St Jean to Pamplona and then bus to Irun to begin the Norte. I wanted to see how my knees (which gave me a little trouble on the Francis last year, hence my concern re asphalt) fare on the Pyrenees, before taking on the difficult stretch to Bilbao. I'm even toying with the idea of walking from St Jean to Burgos and then taking the bus to Santander to complete the Norte.

I guess the beauty of the Camino, is that I can set off with my guides and research up my sleeve and once my feet start walking, I'll figure out which way to go! It's nice, as you mention Ian, to have the option to take other routes (the Primitivo). Being a second time pilgrim, I feel much more relaxed, less of a pressure to stick to the one route or complete one. I am just so grateful to have time to walk again!

So thanks again, and I might throw a few more questions out there as I continue my preparations.

Buen Camino friends
Liana

PS. MIke, thanks for the pictures!

 

[mikevasey]

Hi Liana,

A bigThanks! There is a website you can look at, it doesnt really give you specific information but a rough idea of the GR path in Asturiashttp://www.traildino.com/trace/continents-Europe/countries-Spain/trails-GR204_Senda_Costera. It could be that when you are walking the camino in Asturias you will see a sign for the GR 204 and you could have the option for the day of taking it up. I dont think you will have to use it much before La Isla, however in western Auturias with the road works going on, it could be a useful alternative. There is one website i pulled of wikiloc http://es.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=664367 which gives more specific information, how useful it is i dont know, if you click on Rutas cercanas(nearby routes) in the top right hand corner it gives examples of the coastal walks either side and further afield.

I dont know how much use this is going to be to anyone, but someone may know how to develop it better than me and could really give useful and detailed coastal alternatives.

Mike

 

[Valdis Pauzers]

Hi Liana,
Yes I was surprised of the extent of asphallt road walking on the Norte. Quite a lot of it 'unescapeable'. (I wore tough mountain boots, which was a mistake on my behalf, which were too solid in the sole for the extent road walking. Beware.)
It did not distract from the fantastic experience and certainly but there are major parts on tracks and trails too. Overall a lot of the roads were very quiet, although main roads are walked on occassions.

In terms of scenery and views it is truly spectacular, passing towns, villages, churches and natural beauty spots every day, so I have no wish to put you off in any way.
The route is now well signed. Although it is good to use the CSJ book as an assurance you are going the correct way. There is no need to be carrying it in hand throughout the day and in fact it can be somewhat confusing at times, too. There is in the book little idea of distance between landmarks that are written about. Just remember, you are travelling west. This is most useful when making your way of of the larger towns, which was the most confusing for me. Yet, it's a journey of discovery in more ways than one.
And the locals, as well as the (limited number of) pilgrims, remain extremely helpful.
Enjoy and God Bless you.
Valdis.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I know the need/don't need issue of poles has been covered a few times in Equipment--perhaps not as much as one sock or two, thick or thin, or boot or trainer but I have the impression the roads vary quite a bit so I'd appreciate advice: I'm planning to start in Barcelona in apr, continue through Pamplona and get to irun, then the Norte to Primitivo to Santiago to the sea. Do I really need poles? And if the answer is yes any advice on how to find one I can hold comfortably? The unisex/men's I can't close my hand around, the ladies I can almost but not quite. The youth fit perfectly and I liked the horses and bunnies on them but he salesperson said NO. Thanks

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Since I began writing trail guides (and reading closely the guides written by pilgrims of other nationalities) I have noticed a distinct cultural difference in this Asphalt category.

Spanish, Portuguese, German and Dutch pilgrims do NOT seem to notice the amount of asphalt underfoot. They are more concerned with scenery, accommodations, and/or mileage, and altitude changes. It seems many English-speaking pilgrims find hard surfaces utterly daunting or damaging, when people of other nation and language groups don´t even give consideration to the surface underfoot.

It makes me wonder. And maybe explains why Spain´s "camino improvements" ideas so often include paving the pathway.

Reb.

 

[laurie]

English speakers from the United Kingdom are spoilt by the many miles of off-road walking that are available. We are used to long-distance trails that rarely require road-side walking. Asphalt is hard on the feet, especially for those not accustomed to it. However, there is another aspect of road-side walking that concerns us; particularly in Spain there is far more high-speed tail-gating than we are used to.
Laurie

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

As a military servicemember and a marathon runner I don't really notice hard or soft surfaces, what I can't get from all these posts however is "are hiking poles necessary on the route I plan to use" because they are not something I've used in marathons or military and if veterans of the roads I plan to use think they are ( for down hill safety is my concern, I'm used to carrying half my body wt in an I'll fitting pack uphill And my knees were happy) then I will buy a set with the smallest grips possible and learn to use them. But since I'm aiming for less than 10 pounds including pack water etc then of course would like to not haul something I don't need...thanks to all for your help

 

[Tia Valeria]

My feeling would be 'No'. If you are used to military style walking then you don't need poles to help you along. We are in our 60s so find the single wooden pole a help going uphill. Two would just be a hassle. Lots of folk walk without poles so don't waste money on something it would seem that you personally won't need, especially if they are not exactly right as a fit.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Thank you so much, that's a big relief AND more room in my pack for cookies now
I'm not sure when or where you'll be walking but if we cross paths I definately owe you lunch ( and some cookies)

So without the need for poles it looks like I'm ready to cut tags off everything and devise a packing routine

 

[Alyssa]

Hello friends,

I walked the Camino Frances last year and am now preparing to walk the Camino del Norte in May. I've been checking out blogs and websites and also ordered the Spanish guide "Camino Norte de Santiago" by Anton Pombo (2010) which just arrived. On examining the maps today, I was surprised by just how much of the route is road-side walking and on asphalt (it looks like more than 50% of the way)!

I understand the views are spectacular on this route and the number of pilgrims few, but can anyone who has walked both the Frances and the Norte, give some comparison as to the surfaces of the trails and the overall environment you pass through. I felt that while there were many many pilgrims on the Frances, the trail itself was a very quiet way... through fields, sleepy towns and forrests. Is the North route through much more populated areas, and mostly along major roads?

Thank you so much for your feedback.
Cheers and Buen Camino
Liana

Hi Liana,
I'm curious to know whether or not you ended up walking the Camino del Norte and, if so, how you felt about the asphalt/roadside/next-to-freeway/in and out of big city/modern subdivision walking on this route.

I lasted for 10.5 days before I gave up, not because of the physical chal. For those people who can ignore the frequent roadside walking, this is an amazingly beautiful route. My mind, unfortunately, does not work that way and I would grit my teeth each time a car passed, no matter how beautiful the scenery. Or, when there were no cars, it was like looking at an exquisitely beautiful painting with a wide black line painted through the middle of it.

Like you, one of the things that most appealed to me about the Frances was the "trail itself was a very quiet way... through fields, sleepy towns and forrests."

I found what Rebekah Scott wrote to be true; the Europeans I met didn't give a second thought to the asphalt. Actually, neither did the North Americans. Fortunately, everybody else was thrilled by the spectacular scenery; I seemed to be the lone exception.

I'm now in Oviedo about to start the Camino Primitivo, which I understand to be much more remote.

 

[Walking Viking]

[QUOTE="Walking Viking, post: 323292, member: 40103",


Tia,

I recommend buying a good set of adjustable trekking poles and learning how to use them, even if it means buying some time from an experienced trekker and taking lessons.

The dynamics involved will make your camino a much better experience. I learned how to use my poles from a very experienced hiker who also has a business in Nepal leading trekers through the 4,000-5,000 meter high Himalayan valley passes. Before I learned how to use my poles, I was walking in pain, one of the walking wounded. I met David Gluns just outside of Serdio on the del Norte. He came upon me, sitting by the road, changing the dressings on my wounded feet and toes. He waited, then we walked. While we walked, David commented that he had friends that once they started to use trekking poles, they never went on a hike without them. I told him that I had poles (collapsed and in my backpack), had tried to use them, but failed miserably. At our next rest stop, I pulled them out and my trekking pole lessons started.

David suggested I set the poles so that with them straight up and down, my arms were level with the ground. Then we started walking. David said, the goal was to have approximately 20% of your total weight on the poles, 80% on your feet. As we walked, David said I should push backwards on the poles as I lift my feet; left foof forward with right arm and pole forward. Push and step together. Right foot forward, left arm and pole push as I step. After a day of instruction and following David on the camino, I was getting the hang of using the poles. It's like having four legs that share the work. By the end of the third day, my feet and toes were almost fully healed. I was walking with no pain, anywhere! I started looking forward to the uphill climbs. On level surfaces, pushing with the poles made for less strain and punishment on the heels and balls of the feet and toes. I went from wondering when enough pain was enough to totally enjoying a healthy body on the camino. Periodically I would shorten the poles 2 centimeters at a time looking for the best length. On the second day, I hit the sweet spot. Correctly using the wrist straps makes a huge difference as well.

If I had used my poles at the start, mine would have been a totally different camino.

WV

 

[jpflavin1]

Hi Liana,
I'm curious to know whether or not you ended up walking the Camino del Norte and, if so, how you felt about the asphalt/roadside/next-to-freeway/in and out of big city/modern subdivision walking on this route.

I lasted for 10.5 days before I gave up, not because of the physical chal. For those people who can ignore the frequent roadside walking, this is an amazingly beautiful route. My mind, unfortunately, does not work that way and I would grit my teeth each time a car passed, no matter how beautiful the scenery. Or, when there were no cars, it was like looking at an exquisitely beautiful painting with a wide black line painted through the middle of it.

Like you, one of the things that most appealed to me about the Frances was the "trail itself was a very quiet way... through fields, sleepy towns and forrests."

I found what Rebekah Scott wrote to be true; the Europeans I met didn't give a second thought to the asphalt. Actually, neither did the North Americans. Fortunately, everybody else was thrilled by the spectacular scenery; I seemed to be the lone exception.

I'm now in Oviedo about to start the Camino Primitivo, which I understand to be much more remote.

Alyssa:

The Norte while having quite a bit of rural road walking also has a number of alternative routes, almost daily. The last third as the route turns in from the coast has the least amount of hard surface walking. I actually enjoyed the Norte, including a few detours onto the E-9, with the exception of the Gijon-Aviles section. The Primitivo is also a great walk. Just as hilly but much more rural, imo. Hope you enjoy the walk.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Alyssa]

Alyssa:

The Norte while having quite a bit of rural road walking also has a number of alternative routes, almost daily. The last third as the route turns in from the coast has the least amount of hard surface walking. I actually enjoyed the Norte, including a few detours onto the E-9, with the exception of the Gijon-Aviles section. The Primitivo is also a great walk. Just as hilly but much more rural, imo. Hope you enjoy the walk.

Ultreya,
Joe

Joe,
Thank you for your response. I have actually walked 10 stages of the Norte, from Irún to Larefo. I was just curious to know what Liana's experience was of it after all her research and questions about it.

Thanks again!

 

[Tia Valeria]

........ I was just curious to know what Liana's experience was of it after all her research and questions about it.

Thanks again!

Liana has not been on the forum since May 2012 so I don't think you will get to know now.

@Walking Viking - we still walk with a single wooden pole without any problem. Neither of us want both hands occupied by poles unless truly incapable of walking without them. Our trusty poles have just been to Santiago again and came in use for uphill and downhill at times as well as being easy to use on the level, or to lean on and admire the view.
I know others like yourself love their double poles but they are not for everyone and as yet certainly not for us

 

[Alyssa]

T

Liana has not been on the forum since May 2012 so I don't think you will get to know now.

@Walking Viking - we still walk with a single wooden pole without any problem. Neither of us want both hands occupied by poles unless truly incapable of walking without them. Our trusty poles have just been to Santiago again and came in use for uphill and downhill at times as well as being easy to use on the level, or to lean on and admire the view.
I know others like yourself love their double poles but they are not for everyone and as yet certainly not for us

Thanks for the heads up!